The Northern Antrim Coast

* Dunluce Castle
* Bushmills
* Carrick-a-Rede Rope
* The Antrim
* Giant's Causeway

Quick Tips:

Do take RAINWEAR! Whilst Dublin proved not to be as wet as we were led to expect, it certainly can and will rain at any time in the year, and rains more frequently in the West. A raincoat will keep your head and body dry, but even heavy drizzle will eventually flow off your coat and onto your legs. If you don’t have waterproof trousers, invest in an umbrella which can ward off all but the worst.

Best Way To Get Around:

You need a car to drive around the coastline. There are buses, but you just don't have the freedom to stop and stare out to sea!

The Giant’s Causeway is the main attraction, with a busy car park and crowds of people. The hexagonal columns are indeed fascinating, reaching out into the sea, and hard to imagine as anything other than manmade. But the walk along the North Antrim Cliff Path takes you away from the bumbling crowds and high onto the cliffs looking down onto more towering formations and wheeling seabirds. Not wanting to complete the one-way walk to Dunseverick Castle, we found enjoyment enough walking for 45 minutes or so, sheltering from the wind for a packed lunch, and then turning back.

Ballintoy seems to be a popular end point, with a picture postcard harbour. Exploring the harbour, I had the shock of my life as a pair of horns lurched out the water and a I realised a dead bloated cow was bobbing just below the surface against the harbour walls. Coming across another a little further along we can only conclude these unfortunate animals fell off the cliffs!

This crumbling ruined castle commands a striking position perched right on the cliffs, and subsequently features in many postcards of the Antrim Coast. Historical notes are dotted around the walls, like when the kitchen fell away down the cliff into the sea on a stormy winter's night.

A fairly commercial operation, the highlight of the tour (the distillery itself was not working over the Easter weekend) was the whiskey tasting. Rather than just sampling Bushmills, a tray of 8 whiskeys was produced, comparing Irish whiskeys (Bushmills, Black Bush, Jamesons and Powers) to Blended Scotch, Bourbon (for the Americans!), and Scotch Malt. Volunteer early, as only 4 people get to taste in each tour!

An scary little bridge crossing high over the turquoise water to a small seabird speckled island. Due to open at 10am, we had a 20 minute wait for the gatekeeper who ensures that only two people cross at any one time.

The drive round from Murlough Bay to Cushendall was striking, with emerald green fields of sheep tumbling steeply down to a turquoise sea, although with unfortunately few places to pull over on the narrow winding roads. Inland, Glenarrif Country Park is a somewhat sanitised series of walks just off one the glens.

Growing up in England in the 1970’s, Northern Ireland is synonymous with bombings and terrorism and despite the recent ceasefires we were a little apprehensive about travelling to the North with a car with plates from the Republic and speaking with English accents. Even Irish friends admitted it was a holiday destination they hadn’t considered. Navigating on our journey up from Dublin it was startling how many of the towns we had heard off in association with violence – Crossmaglen, Newry, Omagh, Enniskellen. My boyfriend wanted me to navigate a route round Belfast when we got stuck in traffic until I read out possible roads such as Falls Road, Shankill Road, and only a whim to further explore the Antrim Coast saved us from being in Derry (Londonderry) on the anniversary of Bloody Sunday.

From our experience and that of friends of ours with Northern connections Northern Ireland is a safe place to travel. The current bombings and shootings are targeted sectarian attacks, and typically in the poorer estates where passions run higher. Just stick to tourist attractions and town centres, and avoid the Marching Season and gatherings in remembrance of a bloody past. Above all, do not get into discussions about the ‘Irish problem’ however much you think you understand it. First of all, you never know who you are talking to, and secondly I sense the Irish (both North and South) find it insulting when a foreigner arrives preaching what they need to do when it is something they have battled with for generations.

For those interested in exploration, check out www.discovernorthernireland.com for ideas.