Just wandering aimlessly around the city’s traffic-free (well, apart from the odd car) medieval streets, particularly straying to its fringes including Hanuman Ghat on the river to the southeast of the city, are a joy of everyday scenes. As the tour groups recede at dusk, and the local people and vegetable sellers throng to the squares, find a suitable viewpoint/café and watch daily routines unfold.
Only around Durbar Square did would-be-guides approach us, although far more low key than Kathmandu. Invariably we would just end up chatting about the state of the world. Elsewhere we noted young boys repeatedly offering to take us to their painting school in the evening when their teachers were painting. Their knowledge of English, and other European languages, as well as European current affairs was amazing, although the cynic in me wonders if this is a ploy of their teachers to better appeal to tourists. Thankfully polite refusals were well received.
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