Visiting Italy: Roma

Where we stayed

Bailey's Hotel

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Hotel | "Great boutique hotel in Rome"

Bailey's Hotel, room 601 Photo - Bailey's Hotel, Rome, Italy

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We stayed five nights at the Bailey's Hotel. It's about a 10-15 minute walk from the Termini or a short cab ride around the back of the Baths of Diocletian on a narrow street parallell to XX Settembre. That's handy for the busses and there are two Metro stops within about 15 minutes walk as well.The staff at the hotel were top notch, very helpful and friendly. Any request was quickly attended to and they had lots of suggestions for restaurants and things to do and how to get there on the map they gave us.We had a superior double room and it was on the top floor facing in inner courtyard. The room was very quiet as a result but the street itself wasn't really busy with traffic....Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on November 14, 2012

Bailey's Hotel
Via Flavia 39
Rome, Italy 00187
+39 (06) 642020486

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What we did

Arriving in Rome

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Piazza Barberini and Via Veneto Photo - Rome, Italy

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We left Manchester very early and security queues were long and bothersome. I found myself in the middle seat both times which was Bad Thing #1 but then, The man sitting next to me and his wife across the aisle were moved to where they could sit together so at least we could spread out and it was a bit more comfy. We got into Rome about 2:30 and trekked our way through the airport to where the train station is. I'm sure I saw a sign that said there was a regional train alternative to the more expensive express but the machines didn't show it nor did the rather rude man at the ticket counter admit it either. I'm not entirely confident but it seemed we didn't have a choice and spent the 32 e...Read More

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Oh the Horror!

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I don't know about footloose but we certainly are foot sore! We "did" the Colosseum today, Nov. 7, and seemed to involve ourselves in more walking than necessary. I don't know what it is but we either get off a bus at the wrong spot or have to walk extra to find our destination. This morning we headed to find the bus stop. It had a stop for every number except the one we wanted, naturally, though we saw the bus we wanted go by a few times. We waqlked up the road. Surely we'd come across the stop eventually. "Eventually" was the accurate word. It probably wasn't far in the grand scheme of things but it was farther than we thought we'd have to go. Once on the crowded bus, our noses pressed u...Read More

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Oh wait, it is another country

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Today (Nov. 9) is a gruelling 3 hour tour in the Vatican museums. We slept in this morning and didn't get moving until mid-morning. We walked to a Metro to take it to the Vatican where we are later to meet the tour group. We skipped breakfast and had an early lunch to fortify ourselves for the long tour through the museums and St. Peter's.We were early for the tour meeting spot in Piazza di Risorgimento and decided to have gelato and sit in the sunny square. The gelato was beautifully creamy and the sun was warm. The square is just outside the walls of the Vatican City which is a state/country of its own. If we had been visiting anywhere in it beside the museums and basilica, w...Read More

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Arrivederci, Roma

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A couple of notes:"Prego" is a word you will hear a lot. It seems to be a multi purpose word. You may hear someone behind a ticket desk or the hotel desk use it to summon the next person waiting. You could hear it used as a "your welcome" if you say thank you or grazie. It is almost always the word used to answer the telephone as well. Quite handy to know!Of course there are homeless people in Rome, just like anywhere else. There are people begging on the streets but we didn't notice anyone sleeping in doorways and even most of the main piazzas where the tourists are seemed free of beggars but we did see them. Some had disabilities and were unable to walk. They were perched or ...Read More

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Sightseeing

Pantheon

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Attraction | "Perfectly proportioned Pantheon"

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The Pantheon is one of the oldest Christian churches in Rome and was a pagan temple before that. It's still a church now and has been since the 7th century. It's one of the best preserved buildings from ancient Rome as well. It was built as a temple in early C.E. It was rebuilt after a fire, burned down and rebuilt again by Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century C.E. The dimensions of it are beautifully perfect, as high in the middle as the diameter of the dome. Though the interior has been redesigned over time, the marble floors still date from ancient Rome. The church itself is circular as well with a portico outside lined with columns.There are a few famous tombs there. The big...Read More

The Pantheon is one of the oldest Christian churches in Rome and was a pagan temple before that. It's still a church now and has been since the 7th century. It's one of the best preserved buildings from ancient Rome as well. It was built as a temple in early C.E. It was rebuilt after a fire, burned down and rebuilt again by Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century C.E.

The dimensions of it are beautifully perfect, as high in the middle as the diameter of the dome. Though the interior has been redesigned over time, the marble floors still date from ancient Rome. The church itself is circular as well with a portico outside lined with columns.

There are a few famous tombs there. The big attraction is the stone dome, a real architectural wonder for the day. There's a hole in the centre of the dome, an oculus it's called, for light and there are drainage holes underneath it for rainwater.

The piazza outside has an 18th century with an obelisk and fountain in the centre and is lined with restaurants. It's very popular and another busy spot, even without the tourists. The other hotel I was going to choose is actually on this square but I think I'm quite happy we stayed elsewhere as I think it would have been noisy.

The Pantheon is one of my favourite places in Rome. It's elegant, the marble floors are beautiful, the artwork is exquisite. The only jarring bit is the announcments to ask people to be quiet and respect the space as a church. The loud announcements seem to contradict the message.

Outside, the piazza is usually hopping with tourists. There are restaurants and gelateria in the area as well as a post office. The narrow cobbled streets around it wind around the buildings so that you enter the piazza a bit by surprise, to see the domed building in front of you. The Pantheon is free to enter. There is one low step to get up into the portico but aside from that should be accessible to all. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 26, 2012

Pantheon
Piazza della Rotonda
Rome, Italy 00186
+39 0668300230

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Vatican Museums

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Attraction | "*That* Chapel"

Sistine Chapel Photo - Vatican Museums, Rome, Italy

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Vatican City is an independent state, therefore, it's a different country. You're not in Italy anymore when you cross the borders but you can visit St. Peter's Square, Basilica and the Vatican Museums easily. If you go anywhere else, though, you will have to go through passport and border control. The official State is less than 100 years old, established in 1929 but the Catholic Popes have been in residence here mostly since the early centuries of Christianity thought it's not the only place in Rome where they lived. There was also a period where the Popes lived in Avignon, France. The museums are a series of museums that exist to contain the collections of the Popes. They were founded by...Read More

Vatican City is an independent state, therefore, it's a different country. You're not in Italy anymore when you cross the borders but you can visit St. Peter's Square, Basilica and the Vatican Museums easily. If you go anywhere else, though, you will have to go through passport and border control. The official State is less than 100 years old, established in 1929 but the Catholic Popes have been in residence here mostly since the early centuries of Christianity thought it's not the only place in Rome where they lived. There was also a period where the Popes lived in Avignon, France.

The museums are a series of museums that exist to contain the collections of the Popes. They were founded by Pope Julius II in the 16th century. Currently there are 54 galleries and 17 km of corridors. It's a place you could spend all day browsing. You can buy the tickets and wander on your own, get an audio guide, or you can book a formal tour. The formal tours will basically take you from the entrance, down through one hallway of galleries to the Sistine Chapel and back to the entrance again. You can stay on and see the rest on your own. Entrance fees for an adult are currently 15 euro.

We booked a 2-3 hour tour because we didn't feel up to spending all day there.

Up a staircase from the entrance hall you can go out into the courtyard of the Acorn and yes, there's a large sculpture of an acorn on one side. (The bronze acorn used to be near the Pantheon, they think and think it was moved here to the courtyard in the early 1600s) In the middle is a large brass sphere sculpted by Arnaldo Pomodoro in 1990. Our guide was very good and spoke to us at length out in the courtyard of the Acorn that is set up with storyboards for the Sistine chapel. The guides use these to point out the highlights because you can't talk or make noise in the chapel itself. The guides take you down there, give you about 20 minutes to look around and up and then you move on. The chapel is guarded as well with eyes open for people taking sneaky photos as that's not allowed either. You can take photos in the rest of the museums without a flash.

The Sistine Chapel was built in the end of the 15th century for Pope Sixtus (thus, "Sistine"). While it is famous now for being the location that the Enclave of cardinals goes to elect new Popes, it wasn't always used for that. Sometimes, yes, but often it was in any location where the Pope happened to be when he died. In the last hundred or so years, though, it's always done here.

And yes, even though I wasn't supposed to, I took stealth photos in the Sistine Chapel without a flash. It's dim in there but with a little photoshop adjustment, they've brightened up well.

By the end of the tour we were very tired and staggered around to St. Peter's to have a quick look inside. Also worth visiting but by the time the Vatican tour was over we only had about 20 minutes left to see it. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 26, 2012

Vatican Museums
Viale Vaticano
Rome, Italy 00165
0039 06 69884676

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The Colosseum/Coliseum

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Attraction | "Thumbs up for the Colosseum"

Colosseum interior Photo - The Colosseum/Coliseum, Rome, Italy

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The Colosseum is an amphitheatre and was started in 72 C.E. It was completed and opened in 80 C.E. under Emperor Titus. It was used for public spectacles and festivals and gladiator competitions but was probably not used to set the early Christians against the lions as is popularly thought. It is believed that it's name was taken from a statue of Nero erected nearby which in turn was modeled after the Colossus of Rhodes. It was covered in marble and was painted but after the fall of Rome, the stone was pinched over the centuries to be used to build other things in the city. The Colosseum was generally opened to the public for 3 or 4 times a year, but for weeks each time as the spectacles ...Read More

The Colosseum is an amphitheatre and was started in 72 C.E. It was completed and opened in 80 C.E. under Emperor Titus. It was used for public spectacles and festivals and gladiator competitions but was probably not used to set the early Christians against the lions as is popularly thought. It is believed that it's name was taken from a statue of Nero erected nearby which in turn was modeled after the Colossus of Rhodes. It was covered in marble and was painted but after the fall of Rome, the stone was pinched over the centuries to be used to build other things in the city.

The Colosseum was generally opened to the public for 3 or 4 times a year, but for weeks each time as the spectacles and festivals would last that long. It's one of the top attractions in Rome so if you just turn up you will have to queue for tickets and it could be some time during the busiest times of the year. If you can, it's well worth booking tickets ahead of time online. You can then zip through a much shorter line.

We booked with Tickitaly.com and booked the tour that includes the dungeons/basement part which has only been open to the public for a couple of years as has the third level. You get to go into the dungeons with the guide who points out where the original floors and walls were, where the winches were to raise the props and cages etc. to the main arena, where the tunnels to the gladiator barracks probably were as well. You can't go right out into the various corridors as they have not been shored up but you get a unique view from where you are.

The tour started outside with some discussion on the construction of the building. We then climbed up two steep sets of stairs to the second level. There is also a museum up there with lots of things to look at as well as a little gift shop. The views are good but even better from the third level, up another steep set of uneven stairs. The hypogeum (basements) are down a proper set of stairs. There is a lift but they seem to be restricted to disabled and elderly people.

We really enjoyed the tour and had a good guide. They use radio devices similar to mobile phones so you can hear the guide without them having to shout. The ticket to the Colosseum even without the tour allows you entry to the roman Forums and Palatine Hill across the road though I think those two are free anyway. The basic cost for an adult is 12 euros, and is good for 2 days. The extra tour for just the Colosseum lasts a little over an hour and there are also 3 hour tours that include the Forums in the high season. We were there in November so the only thing available was the shorter tour and I don't know if we'd have had the energy for the full 3 hours anyway. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 26, 2012

The Colosseum/Coliseum
Piazza Del Colosseo
Rome, Italy 00184
+39 (06) 7004261

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Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini/Capuchin Crypt

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Attraction | "Old Bones"

Cappuchin crypt bones Photo - Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini/Capuchin Crypt, Rome, Italy

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The Church of Santa Maria della Concezione is an unusual one. In the crypt, which is above ground level (though perhaps at one time it wasn't) has several little chapels. They are decorated. With patterns made of bones. Real bones. the bones over 4000 Cappuchin monks. Really. There is a sign in the crypt that says "What you are, we once were. What we are, you someday will be." This is to remind us that life is fleeting. The bones are arranged on the walls and ceilings in elaborate patterns. Skulls are stacked up around the skeletons of other monks wrapped in brown robes. Even the hanging light fixtures are made of brown aged bones. It's truly bizarre, somewhat unsettling and yet beautiful...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on November 23, 2012

Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini/Capuchin Crypt
Via Vittorio Veneto 27
Rome, Italy

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Storia e Magia

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Attraction | "Movies and magic"

Storia i Magica Photo - Storia e Magia, Rome, Italy

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We came upon this store by accident, walking along Via Ottaviano towards the Vatican. We saw a figure of a knight in armour on the sidewalk (pavement) and went closer. Inside a small courtyard was another figure of a wizard by a sign that said "Storia e Magia" and we saw that there was a shop in there. When we went in we discovered it was chock full of beautiful and wondrous things. Not only are there lovely gift items but a lot of the shop contains items related to famous fantasy movies and series like Lord of the Rings, Game of Thrones, Harry Potter etc. And this isn't cheap tat either. You can buy full sized swords as seen in these movies, you can buy a replica of Gandalf's wooden staff. You can ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on November 23, 2012

Storia e Magia
Via Ottaviano, 32
Rome, Italy
06 3974 5528

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Food

Enoteca Capranica

Restaurant | "Tasty food at an Italian wine bar"

Quote:

We came across this little wine bar while wandering the cobbled streets looking for the Pantheon. It's just off Piazza Montecitorio, near the Piazza Colonna which is on Via del Corso. It apparently has a long history of providing good wines from an excellent wine cellar. The restaurant is deep and narrow and has a long bar. The walls are lined with shelves filled with wine bottles. Lots of wood and high arched ceilings. The atmosphere is very nice. We stopped in there for lunch and had a lovely Roman meal. It was a leisurely lunch as is traditional in Italian restaurants. We had Italian beer, and I had a plate of pasta carbonara, my favourite. My partner managed to find a plate of chicken ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on November 20, 2012

Enoteca Capranica
Piazza Capranica, 99
Rome, Italy 00186
+39 0669940992

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Pasticceria Strabbioni

Restaurant | "Historic Pasticceria and cafe "

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Pastticceria Strabbioni has been in existence since 1888 and is a neighbourhood establishment that serves up light lunches, coffee and awesome pastries and cakes. The interior is lined with wood and hand painted flowers on the ceiling. There's a coffee bar to the right and a showcase with hard-to-resist cakes and pastries on the left. There's also outside seating area for nice days.

We only stopped in to take out coffee and a cake to our hotel which was right around the corner. The coffee was a bit strong for us but perhaps we should have ordered lattes, I guess. The cakes are wonderful!

Panini €3-5. Pastries €0.80-3. Cash only. ~Open M-Sa 7am-8pm.

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on December 2, 2012

Pasticceria Strabbioni
Via Servio Tullio, 2/a, 00187
Rome, Italy

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Taverna Flavia

Restaurant | "Italian Taverna on Via Flavia"

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This restaurant was down the street from our hotel and most nights we were too tired from walking to go too far. We tried this Taverna on our third night in Rome and were not disappointed. The restaurant is far larger inside than it looks from the outside. The walls are covered with photos of famous people along with the owner who was there this night as well, keeping an eye on things. I don't think I liked the decor as much, though, it didn't give you a cozy feeling to the restaurant. No matter...The waiter we had was pretty good though we did have some translation problems once or twice but nothing too serious. That's not his fault. The food was very good, though more expensive than any ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on November 20, 2012

Taverna Flavia
Via Flavia, 9/11
Rome, Italy 00187
+39 064870483

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Gelaterias

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Blue Ice Gelato, Rome Photo - Rome, Italy

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Italy is famed for it's gelato. We might call it "ice cream" but it's so much more than that. It's richer and creamier without being heavier. The flavours are more intense and most of the gelateria make theirs by hand, churning goodness into every lick of it! We were in Rome for 5 days though only managed to get to two places. We did have some for dessert at one or two restaurants but it doesn't quite seem the same as sitting in a square by a beautiful fountain in the sun or as the sun is going down, with a cone or a cup of gelato in your hand. You may pay more in the hot tourist areas such as Piazza Navona or Rotunda but even then, it doesn't matter because it's all part of the Rome exper...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 23, 2012

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Tavernella di Luisa

Restaurant | "Neighbourhood Tavernella near the Vatican"

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We were en route to do some shopping on Cola di Rienzo and were looking for somewhere for lunch. We saw this little taverna on the street and they had a set price lunch feature that looked ok so we went in. When you enter, you are in a narrow room with close set tables and there's another small room around the back. The cafe is unpretentious and rather plain but quite often those are the best kind. We sat at a table by the wall and though it was nearly empty when we arrived, it was completely full when we left, most of the clientele were locals, not tourists.The set price menu for lunch was only 10 euro and included a starter of bruschetta, an entre of Pizza and dessert with bottled water ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on December 2, 2012

Tavernella di Luisa
Via Ezio, 5,
Rome, Italy 192
06 3220007

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La Locanda di Bacco

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Restaurant | "Great food and wine, great portions"

Locanda di Bacco Photo - La Locanda di Bacco, Rome, Italy

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We stayed at Baileys Hotel on Via Flavia in Rome and the staff there said there were a couple of good restaurants just down the street. This one was one of 2 or 3 in a row but we liked the look of the menu the best. The restaurant is not that large, but the walls are lined with bottles of wine and apparently has an excellent wine cellar. The tables are immaculately set and though the tables are close together, you never felt crowded. The restaurant is in one room though on two levels. We were snug in a corner one night and loved the food so much we went back again before we left Rome and sat in the middle of the room that time.The portions we were served were generous and the food was real...Read More

We stayed at Baileys Hotel on Via Flavia in Rome and the staff there said there were a couple of good restaurants just down the street. This one was one of 2 or 3 in a row but we liked the look of the menu the best. The restaurant is not that large, but the walls are lined with bottles of wine and apparently has an excellent wine cellar. The tables are immaculately set and though the tables are close together, you never felt crowded. The restaurant is in one room though on two levels. We were snug in a corner one night and loved the food so much we went back again before we left Rome and sat in the middle of the room that time.

The portions we were served were generous and the food was really, really good. Probably the best steak I've had in years was served to us on our first night. They have a section of the menu for seafood and fish (antipasti, primo, secundo) listed separately from the meat dishes. The pasta was all wonderful. The vegetable soup could easily have fed 2 or 3 for a starter. The desserts were amazing. The wine was superb and the service was good, not overly attentive but then I don't like wait staff fawning all over me anyway. They were efficient and did their job well. I really couldn't fault the restaurant for a thing.

The steak was probably our favourite. My partner had a mixed grill the second night and said it was very good but still the steak was better. I had huge shrimp in rose sauce and a pasta dish the second night and the soup and steak with roasted potatoes the first night. The dessert i had room for on the second night was a ricotta and pear tarte. Melt in your mouth wonderful! My partner had a chocolate pudding which was more of a mousse and he said that was creamy and delicious, too.

Both nights we at there, we had either a primo and secundo or an antipasti and primo, one night we had dessert and both nights we had a glass of wine each. The total both nights was about 75 - 90 euro. We thought that was about average for Rome and the type of restaurant, food and portions we got. Wonderful! Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 20, 2012

La Locanda di Bacco
Via Flavia, 32
Rome, Italy
06 87440105

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Hard Rock Cafe

Restaurant | "Hard Rockin' Rome"

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We decided to eat at the Hard Rock Cafe in Rome one evening. The Hard Rock cafes are fairly standard world wide. It's an American food menu and drinks with lots of music memorabilia decorating the walls. The food is plentiful and good and the wait staff is usually pretty upbeat. The HRC Rome has a nice feature, a painted ceiling in the main bar/restaurant area. The music is prominent but not quite too loud to carry on a conversation. We had a shared starter, southwest style spring rolls and they were quite tasty. I chose from something healthy and had salmon while my partner had a burger and we were both really happy with the results. It was all cooked to perfection. Our server...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 14, 2012

Hard Rock Cafe
Via Vittorio Veneto 62 A/B
Rome, Italy
3 (906) 420-3051

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