Magical Glenelg

Glenelg Village

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Glenelg is a village and a whole peninsula called, as the name suggests, after a glen, or a valley in the Lochalsh area of the Scottish Highlands. People who travel along the A82/A87 ''road to the Isles'' often either stay on in Kintail/Glen Shiel area or rush on to Kyle of Lochalsh and the Skye bridge. This is a mistake, at least in the summer months, as by doing that a visitor misses one of the most stunning drives in Scotland, an enchanted area of wilderness and what is arguably the best way ''over the sea to Skye''. Tucked away behind a high ridge of hills on the Sound of Sleat, Glenelg had long been the main gateway to Skye – at least until a road reached Kyle in the early 19th centur...Read More

Glenelg is a village and a whole peninsula called, as the name suggests, after a glen, or a valley in the Lochalsh area of the Scottish Highlands. People who travel along the A82/A87 ''road to the Isles'' often either stay on in Kintail/Glen Shiel area or rush on to Kyle of Lochalsh and the Skye bridge. This is a mistake, at least in the summer months, as by doing that a visitor misses one of the most stunning drives in Scotland, an enchanted area of wilderness and what is arguably the best way ''over the sea to Skye''.

Tucked away behind a high ridge of hills on the Sound of Sleat, Glenelg had long been the main gateway to Skye – at least until a road reached Kyle in the early 19th century. Boswell and Johnson took this route during their famous trip to Skye and other Hebridean islands in 1773. The Kylerhea narrows was the main crossing point, for the boats and also for the drovers who swam the cattle across in right conditions.

Modern Glenelg is an enchanting area, with – obviously – a lot of attraction for walkers, but, quite surprisingly, also quite a few other points of interest.

Not the least of these is the Glenelg ferry, a community run operation that sails between April and October, remaining the best (if rather slow, considering the drive to and from it) way to reach Skye.

IN addition to the ferry and the walks, Glenelg has historical remains to see.

One is of a more recent heritage, a shell of Bernera Barracks, one of the four built after 1715 uprising to keep troublesome Jacobites in check. The building is not accessible but can be seen from beyond the fence for those who want to ponder the way the heroic myth and tragic history intertwine in Scotland.

The other ruins, and these are unmissable ones, are the Glenelg brochs, well-preserved ruins of three circular, fortified tower houses from 2,000 years ago.

Getting to Glenelg is attraction in itself. Take a minor road off the A87 in Shiel Bridge. This is sign-posted for Glenelg, and the Glenelg ferry. The road, in many sections single track, climbs up from the head of Loch Duich towards the 1,100 feet high pass of Mam Ratagan, following a series of hair-raising hairpin bends and reaching a 15% (1 in 6) gradient. Good tyres (and good breaks) are a must but you are rewarded by incredible views at the top of the pass (there is a viewpoint with a car park and picnic tables) and a slightly milder descent into the long, narrow, lush valley of Glenelg: this place really feels like a different world, an enchanted valley surrounded by green hills flowing with water.

At the bottom of the road, the village of Glenelg offers accommodation and welcome in Glenelg Inn, just before the village the road branches left to the ferry; beyond the village in Glean Beag you will find the brochs, and if you don't go up Glean Beag for the brochs but follow the road along the Sound of Sleat, 10 miles on the road ends at the villages of Arnisdale and Corran: even more remote, wilder and possibly more enchanted places on Loch Hourn, with views to Knoydart. It's worth the drive if you have time to spare, though the road is narrow and single track. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on September 2, 2012

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Glenelg Inn

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Restaurant | "Inn with views of Skye"

Quote:

Glenelg is one of the more enchanting and remote – and yet pretty easily accessible – locations on the west coast of Scotland, sitting on the mainland side of the Sound of Sleat that separates the mainland from the Isle of Skye. The road to Glenelg that diverts from A87 at the head of Loch Duich has been listed by Pete Irvine in ''Scotland the Best'' as one of the best drives in Scotland, and at the roadside in the village of Glenelg proper sits Glenelg Inn, listed in the same iconic guide as one of the best roadside pubs in the country. We visited on a wet, cold day at the end of August, a typical day that could be described as ''dreich'', a wonderfully evocative Scottish word that desc...Read More

Glenelg is one of the more enchanting and remote – and yet pretty easily accessible – locations on the west coast of Scotland, sitting on the mainland side of the Sound of Sleat that separates the mainland from the Isle of Skye. The road to Glenelg that diverts from A87 at the head of Loch Duich has been listed by Pete Irvine in ''Scotland the Best'' as one of the best drives in Scotland, and at the roadside in the village of Glenelg proper sits Glenelg Inn, listed in the same iconic guide as one of the best roadside pubs in the country.

We visited on a wet, cold day at the end of August, a typical day that could be described as ''dreich'', a wonderfully evocative Scottish word that describes gloomy wetness.

Unfortunately, the food has finished for the afternoon (they serve till 2.30pm), but as we are drenched and cold we go in anyway, completely incidentally following a band that just decanted from the open box of a truck, all wellies, waterproofs and well-encased instruments.

Even at this relatively mild time of the year and early hour there is a bright fire burning in a large fireplace. The low, beamed ceilings and random assortment of chairs and tables in the main room exude warm welcome and sociable bonhomie. In the midst of the winter, when the Atlantic gales blow sleet in and take off the slates of the roofs, walking into here must feel like entering some cosy version of northern Scottish paradise.

But there is also provision for the rare and wonderful days which are both sunny and midge-free, in that the Inn has a beer garden, with picnic-type tables and a view across the water to Skye.

This is not such a day though, and after being gently discouraged from the area that is going to be taken up by the band, we find space at one of the tables near the fire. Children are allowed in the public bar, which is great as it's often the only place in Glenelg for something to eat or drink and it would be pity if it wasn't open to families.

We are pleasantly surprised at prices of drinks, a half of bitter, a whiskey, a coffee and a coke with four packets or crisps and peanuts set us back only about £8 which seems very reasonable.

The atmosphere is relaxed but not too rowdy (though I can imagine that later on in the evening it would get quite a bit rowdier, and as it's fundamentally a local pub you can't expect to refined a company) and it's a pity we can't wait for the band to start, but the rain is driving hard and we want to get back down that 1 in 6 gradient road before we get too comfortable.

We promise ourselves that we will be back, though!

Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on September 6, 2012

Glenelg Inn
Glenelg Bay
Scottish Highlands, Scotland

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Glenelg Brochs: Dun Telve, Dun Troddan

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Attraction | "Inn with views of Skye"

Photo of Glenelg Brochs: Dun Telve, Dun Troddan

Quote:

Glenelg is one of the more enchanting and remote – and yet pretty easily accessible – locations on the west coast of Scotland, sitting on the mainland side of the Sound of Sleat that separates the mainland from the Isle of Skye. The road to Glenelg that diverts from A87 at the head of Loch Duich has been listed by Pete Irvine in ''Scotland the Best'' as one of the best drives in Scotland, and at the roadside in the village of Glenelg proper sits Glenelg Inn, listed in the same iconic guide as one of the best roadside pubs in the country. We visited on a wet, cold day at the end of August, a typical day that could be described as ''dreich'', a wonderfully evocative Scottish word that desc...Read More

Glenelg is one of the more enchanting and remote – and yet pretty easily accessible – locations on the west coast of Scotland, sitting on the mainland side of the Sound of Sleat that separates the mainland from the Isle of Skye. The road to Glenelg that diverts from A87 at the head of Loch Duich has been listed by Pete Irvine in ''Scotland the Best'' as one of the best drives in Scotland, and at the roadside in the village of Glenelg proper sits Glenelg Inn, listed in the same iconic guide as one of the best roadside pubs in the country.

We visited on a wet, cold day at the end of August, a typical day that could be described as ''dreich'', a wonderfully evocative Scottish word that describes gloomy wetness.

Unfortunately, the food has finished for the afternoon (they serve till 2.30pm), but as we are drenched and cold we go in anyway, completely incidentally following a band that just decanted from the open box of a truck, all wellies, waterproofs and well-encased instruments.

Even at this relatively mild time of the year and early hour there is a bright fire burning in a large fireplace. The low, beamed ceilings and random assortment of chairs and tables in the main room exude warm welcome and sociable bonhomie. In the midst of the winter, when the Atlantic gales blow sleet in and take off the slates of the roofs, walking into here must feel like entering some cosy version of northern Scottish paradise.

But there is also provision for the rare and wonderful days which are both sunny and midge-free, in that the Inn has a beer garden, with picnic-type tables and a view across the water to Skye.

This is not such a day though, and after being gently discouraged from the area that is going to be taken up by the band, we find space at one of the tables near the fire. Children are allowed in the public bar, which is great as it's often the only place in Glenelg for something to eat or drink and it would be pity if it wasn't open to families.

We are pleasantly surprised at prices of drinks, a half of bitter, a whiskey, a coffee and a coke with four packets or crisps and peanuts set us back only about £8 which seems very reasonable.

The atmosphere is relaxed but not too rowdy (though I can imagine that later on in the evening it would get quite a bit rowdier, and as it's fundamentally a local pub you can't expect to refined a company) and it's a pity we can't wait for the band to start, but the rain is driving hard and we want to get back down that 1 in 6 gradient road before we get too comfortable.

We promise ourselves that we will be back, though!

Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on September 2, 2012

Glenelg Brochs: Dun Telve, Dun Troddan
South of Glenelg Village
Lochalsh, Western Scotland

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