Meerut Journals

The Town of The First War of Independence

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A travel journal to Meerut by phileasfogg

St. Johns Garrison Church and Cemetery Photo, Meerut, India More Photos
Quote: Meerut, 65 km from Delhi, is a smallish, dusty city. In Indian history it has one major claim to fame: it was where the 'First War of Independence', the Mutiny or Revolt of 1857, began. Some reminders of that, and some tastes of modern Meerut.

St. John's Garrison Church and Cemetery

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Hotel | "S John's Garrison Church: History in every brick"

St. John's Garrison Church and Cemetery Photo, Meerut, India
Quote:
In the 1970’s, a Hindi film named Junoon was made, based on Ruskin Bond’s book A Flight of Pigeons.Junoon is set in the northern India of 1857—in which an Indian nobleman falls willy-nilly in love with an English girl who comes to his home seeking refuge from Indian mutineers baying for the blood of all the English in the country. One of the first scenes in the film is set in a church: a church filled with Englishwomen in crinolines and muslins, with parasols and hoops, and Englishmen in top hats and coats and buff pantaloons, and of course soldiers in red coats. In the middle of the service, the Indian mutineers attack. There are bullets, swords slashing, screams, stampeding, blo...Read More

St. John's Garrison Church and Cemetery
Church Road
Meerut Cantonment

St. John's Garrison Church and Cemetery

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Attraction | "Ghosts of the past - St John's Cemetery"

St. John's Garrison Church and Cemetery Photo, Meerut, India
Quote:
Very close to St John’s Church—and part of the church’s administrative jurisdiction—is the St John’s Cemetery, one of Northern India’s most historically important Christian cemeteries. Not that it’s the oldest; in fact, it isn’t even the oldest cemetery in Meerut. But because it contains some very interesting graves, including the tombs of one of India’s most colourful early British colonisers, Sir David Ochterlony. We arrive at the cemetery on a misty morning. It’s Boxing Day, and the caretaker at the cemetery is used to parishioners coming to lay flowers on the graves of relatives post Christmas, so he’s not surprised to see us there. He offers to take us around, and we accept gratefully. It t...Read More

St. John's Garrison Church and Cemetery
Church Road
Meerut Cantonment

Mustafa Castle

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Attraction | "Mustafa Castle: Ode to a revolutionary poet"

Mustafa Castle Photo, Meerut, India
Quote:
Just about everybody who knows Urdu can quote from Mirza Ghalib, the generally acknowledged master of Urdu poetry. Not so much is known about Ghalib’s associates, but one of them, Mustafa Khan ‘Shefta’, spent part of his life in Meerut. ‘Shefta’ was a friend and disciple of Ghalib’s. In 1857, when the Revolt broke out, ‘Shefta’ made no bones about voicing his opinions: he was very strongly on the side of the nationalist revolutionaries. The result was that when the revolt was suppressed by the British and reprisals began, ‘Shefta’ was one of those who suffered. All his property was confiscated and he was stripped of his jagirs or estates. The only jagir that was left with the family was ...Read More

Mustafa Castle
210 West End Road
Meerut, India

Empress Court

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Restaurant | "Predictable but Good North Indian food"

Empress Court Photo, Meerut, India
Quote:
An aunt of mine, who has never been to Meerut—and has lived outside India for the past 25 years—on being told that my parents went to a restaurant for lunch, said: "You have restaurants in Meerut?!"Yes, auntie; they do have restaurants in Meerut. And Empress Court—the restaurant in question—is a good one, too. This time, when Tarun and I are in town for the day, my parents take us to Empress Court for lunch. The restaurant is in the relatively clean, uncrowded and orderly part of town, the cantonment area. Empress Court has a bright red façade with the restaurant’s name spelt out in white letters above large plate glass windows. Inside, it’s dimly lit, with subdued interiors in dark wood and white ...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 16, 2012

Empress Court
274/5, Circular Road, Near Hanuman Chowk
Meerut Cantonment, India
0121-2640593

Alfa Spice

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Restaurant | "Food from the North-West Frontier"

Alfa Spice Photo, New Delhi, India
Quote:
Like Empress Court, Alfa Spice is where the swish set of Meerut comes to entertain. On any given day, you’ll find droves of women lunching here after shopping in the market around. On the day we visit, too, it’s crowded with chatting, laughing women. Not a place I’d advise visiting if you like your peace and quiet.Alfa Spice is on the first floor (staircase only, no lift or escalator). The inside, while clean and neat, isn’t a marvel of interior décor. It’s a mishmash of white tablecloths with red-checked covers; swirly-patterned brown and cream sofas and chairs; etched glass partitions; mirrors; faux ‘traditional’ Indian paintings, and more. On the side overlooking the street below is a small semi...Read More

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on April 16, 2012

Alfa Spice
Bombay Bazaar
Meerut, India 110005
011 25813481

Dehli Chholewaala

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Restaurant | "The best chhola-bhaturas around"

Dehli Chholewaala Photo, Meerut, India
Quote:
One of the ubiquitous favourites across North India is the Punjabi dish known as chhole bhature. Even though it originated in Punjab, chhole bhature—spicy chickpeas served with a deep-fried, yeasty bread—are popular all across neighbouring Delhi, Haryana, Rajasthan, even Uttar Pradesh. And in Meerut, at least, the best chhole bhature are generally acknowledged to be the ones served at this place. My parents first discovered this eatery over thirty years ago while spending a few weeks in Meerut. Now that my father’s retired and they live in Meerut, coming here for lunch is a treat they look forward to.The eatery stands at the point where a narrow alley intersects Abu Lane...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 16, 2012

Dehli Chholewaala
Abu Lane
Meerut, Uttar Pradesh

Tomatoes

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Restaurant | "Rightly popular for North Indian food"

Tomatoes Photo, Meerut, India
Quote:
My parents don’t eat out much (which is just as well, since Meerut isn’t known for its smashing eateries), but they occasionally do make a good discovery—and share it with us when we visit them. This time, they told us about Tomatoes.Tomatoes opened a few months back in the PVS Mall, one of Meerut’s more prominent landmarks. It’s not a very swish mall, and Tomatoes isn’t a sleek restaurant. It looks like a fast food joint: the décor’s all plastic and metal and laminated surfaces, all durable stuff that doesn’t require much maintenance and isn’t expensive. One side of the large hall is a counter where the wait staff pick up orders (unlike most fast food outlets in India, this isn’t a self-service pl...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on May 21, 2012

Tomatoes
PVS Mall Ground Floor
Meerut, Uttar Pradesh

Maanchow

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Restaurant | "Multicuisine, but the Chinese is best"

Maanchow Photo, Meerut, India
Quote:
Options for eating out in restaurants that serve non-Indian food are pretty limited in Meerut. True, McDonald’s, Pizza Hut and Domino’s are here, and odd bastardised versions of chowmein and burgers (both vegetarian) are available even at roadside stalls. Halfway decent non-Indian food is hard to come by. Which is why, when my parents first moved to Meerut 15 years ago and were introduced to Maanchow by a friend, they fell in love with it immediately. They’ve been to a couple of other Chinese restaurants in Meerut, but have decided this is the one that’s remained consistently good.This time, therefore, when my husband and I visited Meerut, the folks took us along for lunch to Maanchow—having...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on September 16, 2012

Maanchow
West End Road, Meerut Cantonment
Meerut, India
2665017