The roads to the Isles

Highlands, what Highlands?

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The Highlands are a different world: less so than ever before, perhaps, due to migrations, global culture and gentrification brought by newcomers and holiday-home owners, but still, the northern lands of Scotland are a special place indeed. Culturally, it's not easy to disentangle all the ''romance of Scotland'' kitsch and tartan tat, and people (not all them Scots) will spend a lot of time trying to explain what's ''authentic'' and what's not – and the non-authentic label is frequently attached to the Walter-Scott instigated pageantry of the kilts, clan tartans and (most of the) Scottish Dancing. It sometimes feels like after the Highland spirit and the ''real'' Highland culture was emasc...Read More

The Highlands are a different world: less so than ever before, perhaps, due to migrations, global culture and gentrification brought by newcomers and holiday-home owners, but still, the northern lands of Scotland are a special place indeed.

Culturally, it's not easy to disentangle all the ''romance of Scotland'' kitsch and tartan tat, and people (not all them Scots) will spend a lot of time trying to explain what's ''authentic'' and what's not – and the non-authentic label is frequently attached to the Walter-Scott instigated pageantry of the kilts, clan tartans and (most of the) Scottish Dancing. It sometimes feels like after the Highland spirit and the ''real'' Highland culture was emasculated after the fail of the Jacobite rebellions and the Clearances, it was safe to bring on a tame and twee version of the real thing for the consumption of the first Victorian tourists. The Jacobite story is not simple, either, because it's a massive simplification to equate the Highlanders with the Jacobites (and Catholics) and the Lowlanders with the supporters of the (Protestant) William. Besides, many of Scott's Georgian inventions have been joyfully adopted and become and important part of the national culture in the intervening 200 or so years.

Leaving all the historical and cultural distinctions aside, the Highlands are, for many, simply synonymous with the wilderness: the unpredictable weather, fierce winds, craggy mountains and coast of infinite variety.

And yet, even the definition of the Highlands is not entirely agreed upon. It's a cultural and historical concept and most strictly applies to the area north-west of the Highland Boundary Fault – a geological line that cuts Scotland from Arran in the south-west to Stonehaven in the north-east. However, as the Gaelic culture is historically important for the concept, the flat arable lands around Aberdeen as well as the very north-east of Caithness, Orkney and Shetland.

The current Highland council area covers much of the historical Highland region, but they also include parts of Aberdeenshire, Angus, Perthshire and Stirlingshire as well as Argyll and Bute and the outer Hebrides.

However you define the region – and for the casual traveller it's actually not that difficult to notice the passage to the Highlands, marked basically by the increasing wilderness of the landscape and weather and marked thinning of the population – it has a lot to offer to the visitor.

First of all, is, of course, the landscape with the drama, variety, gloom and heart-breaking beauty of the lochs, mountains and coast. It's a hiker's paradise (though the weather, and the midges, are a pain) with countless walks and so much relatively remote space that you can spend a lifetime exploring it.

All the traditional ''country sports'' are big in the Highlands (and one may argue that their presence and the influence large landowners have accounts for lack of more popular tourism), and shooting and fishing are widely practised, whether by rich landowners and their guests, paying visitors or poaching traditionalist locals. More recently, less fusty pursuits have started developing, and even extreme sports New-Zealand style make shy appearance. Skiing and snowboarding is possible (though unreliable) in several ski resorts, surfing is good on many beaches (and some of those – especially in the Western Isles – are spectacular in themselves), kite-surfing even better (because wind is something that Highlands do have a lot of – sadly evidenced by disgusting proliferation of wind-turbines).

The region is also awash with history, from the numerous castles to battlefields to more modest but not less telling reminders of the social history of the ordinary people who inhabited the glens and coasts of the Highlands. To this, current, often vibrant cultural life adds an extra dimension, from the Gaelic choral singing to folk music to numerous art galleries and craft shops.

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Roads to the Islands, part 2

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Glen Coe Photo - Glen Coe/Glencoe Visitor Centre, Glencoe, Scotland

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Following the brief look at the main road routes to the Isle of Skye in the ''Roads to the Islands, part 1'', here is a more detailed description of the route options. Option (1) is essentially A9, reached from Glasgow via M9 and from Edinburgh by M90.(1) From Perth follow A9 all the way to Inverness. The landscape past Perth gets interesting, though not particularly dramatic and you get some nice views of the mountains and hilly country around Pitlochry. The road continues through the Cairngorms, which are rather bleak and not my favourite Scottish hills, and then enters beautifully located Inverness. There you will turn (almost) back on yourself and enter the Great Glen. A82 ...Read More

Following the brief look at the main road routes to the Isle of Skye in the ''Roads to the Islands, part 1'', here is a more detailed description of the route options.

Option (1) is essentially A9, reached from Glasgow via M9 and from Edinburgh by M90.

(1) From Perth follow A9 all the way to Inverness. The landscape past Perth gets interesting, though not particularly dramatic and you get some nice views of the mountains and hilly country around Pitlochry. The road continues through the Cairngorms, which are rather bleak and not my favourite Scottish hills, and then enters beautifully located Inverness. There you will turn (almost) back on yourself and enter the Great Glen. A82 will take you along the Loch Ness, and then, when A82 turns south towards Fort William you will continue on A87 all the way to Kyle of Lochalsh and the bridge to Skye. In many ways this is the most straightforward route and if you want to minimise driving on winding country roads it's a reasonable choice. It's significantly less scenic than other routes though if you want to see Loch Ness (which is not THAT pretty, but very big) on the way or visit Urquhart Castle it's the only one that allows you to include that. At Invermoriston, cut across from A82 via A887 (this is the natural way the road goes) to A87, the official ''Road to the Isles'', on which all the routes described here converge. This last stretch is of about 1 hour's length but it's particularly beautiful, even by Scottish standards. Loch Cluanie has had its level raised for a hydroelectric scheme and, like most reservoirs, has a bit of a stark edge, but the mountains raising around it hint at the wilder wilderness to come. This hint is realised beyond Cluanie Inn, an old hostelry popular with walkers and weary travellers, the only light and warmth in what is a dramatic section of stunning wilderness stretching beyond: Glen Shiel, with the fantastic ridge of Five Sisters of Kintail on the north side and the Cluanie Forest on the other side as impressive.

Shiel Bridge stands at the head of Loch Duich, and it's here that you can turn off the A87 on the narrow road to Glenelg, into the real wilderness (as if what came before wasn't wild enough), where landscape drama mixes with mysterious history (there are ancient brochs here, and possibly even some Roman finds). The 5-minute ferry journey follows an old drove route, where cattle were transported (either in boats or just swam across) from Skye to the mainland on the way to the markets. You arrive in Sleat peninsula, the garden of Skye, with attractions including otters, Clan Donald museum and woodland and loch-side walks.

Option (2) diverts from A9 at Dalwhinnie. From Stirling follow A9 beyond Perth, Pitlochry and Blair Atholl just as in option (1) but turn off at Dalwhinnie for A86, signposted for Spean Bridge. You will still pass all the attractions of Highland Perthshire that the option (1) included but will get an extra dose of pretty landscape along Loch Laggan, river Spean and the Braes of Lochaber. After Spean Bridge the route turns north (onto A82) along Loch Lochy and, having crossed the Caledonian Canal continues through Invergarry on the A87, the Road to the Isles as described above, past the Invermoriston junction with A887. This is a faster and prettier route, avoiding Inverness, and the tour buses along Loch Ness and taking in views of the Nevis range, Commando Memorial and Glen Garry.

Option (3) only makes sense from Edinburgh, Dundee or Perth. Instead of following A9 north from Perth, turn off A9 at the Perth bypass (first junction after the large roundabout with a wire grouse model, called Broxden Roundabout) and take A85 towards Crieff and Crianlarich. This takes you almost directly west, through the lovely rolling countryside of Strathearn, through Crieff and pretty Comrie, past the nice looking but tame Loch Earn, until in Crianlarich you will join A82, the road that runs all the way from Glasgow to Inverness. The landscape changes noticeably at Lochearnhead, you are getting into the wilds of Agryll, and from Tyndrum the road goes north, passing the western edge of moody, desolate and fabulously beautiful (especially in rare sunny conditions) Rannoch Moor. Despite all the attractions on the way, nothing prepares you for the next wonder on the way, Glen Coe (see separate entry in the Road to the Isles journal). After Glen Coe, the road crosses a bridge on Loch Leven and runs along pretty average Loch Linnhe to Fort William. From Fort William it follows the Great Glen (you get decent views of the Nevis range on the way if you can see it) joining the route described in option (2) in Spean Bridge. If you have time, this is by far the most scenic, beautiful and dramatic route, taking in the iconic locations of Rannoch Moor, Glen Coe and Ben Nevis. It is particularly recommended on a sunny day (or at least a day with some sun in it).

If you are travelling from Glasgow, you have, instead, option (4). Take the A82 all the way from Glasgow. This goes through the heart of the ''Rob Roy'' country, i.e. the Trossachs, but the principal attraction here is the fact that it skirts the western of the ''bonnie bonnie banks'' of Loch Lomond. After that, the route to the Isles follows the path beyond Crianlarich described in the option (3) above. As with that option, if the weather is not too bad, this is the most scenic route and highly recommended. It's also overall the fastest route from Glasgow, but as dangerous as A9 beyond Perth so drive carefully.

And finally, from Edinburgh you have option (5), which takes you along M9 by Stirling (watch out for, or even better, stop at the magnificent castle), turning off there onto A84 which goes through the Trossachs, similar landscape as the option (4) from Glasgow but missing Loch Lomond. On the way is Doune with the Monthy Python Castle and Callander, a small town and a centre for exploring the Trossachs. You pass Loch Lubnaig, above which Ben Vorlich rises. This route joins A85 at Lochearnhead, and then proceeds as in option (3). Read Less

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The Roads to the Islands, part 1

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Skye Bridge Photo - Scotland, United Kingdom

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The Scottish Highlands are undoubtedly among the most beautiful areas of Europe if not the world, and the visual interest of the landscape is compounded by the historical, cultural and wildlife aspects of the area. Among the Highland locations, the Islands have a special place, and Skye is one of the most accessible and most stunning of the Isles. From there, the Outer Hebrides (Harris/Lewis, Uist, Benbecula and Barra). Historically, a lot of Scottish past has been played in this area, with the Irish, Viking and possibly Pictish influences mixing and clashing; later on followed by the indelible mark made on the Scottish social and historical landscape by the Jacobite wars. A vi...Read More

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Commando Memorial

Attraction | "Good memorial in a stunning location"

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The Spean Bridge Commando Memorial remembers the soldiers who trained in the Scottish Highlands during the WW2 to then embark on special tasks, often behind the enemy lines. The memorial is located high up on a pass, with fantastic views of the surrounding Highland countryside, including the Ben Nevis range. Even if military remembrance is not high on your agenda, it's very good as a viewpoint. But the memorial itself is also quite compelling; a fairly low-key, realistic bronze of three soldiers in combat gear, facing out while at the same time supporting and covering each other's back; the positioning and the expressions emphasise the comradeship and trust essential for succes...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 19, 2012

Commando Memorial
One Mile from Spean Bridge Village
Scottish Highlands

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Glen Coe/Glencoe Visitor Centre

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Attraction | "The fourth wonder"

Buachaille Etive Mor Photo - Scottish Highlands, Scotland

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Glen Coe (Gleann Comhan in Gaelic) is a glen (valley) located in the Lochaber area of the Scottish Highlands, part of the National Scenic Area of Ben Nevis and Glen Coe. It is owned and administered by The National Trust for Scotland who run a visitor centre with an exhibition presenting natural and social history of the area (charge applies, 6 GBP at 2012 prices). The glen is 16km long and it's entered from the west from Rannoch Moor, heralded from afar by the characteristic shape of Buachaille Etive Mor, marking the beginning of both Glen Coe and the neighbouring Glen Etive. On the southern side of the glen there are also Buachaille Etive Beag, Three Sisters, and Bidean nam Bian. On the...Read More

Glen Coe (Gleann Comhan in Gaelic) is a glen (valley) located in the Lochaber area of the Scottish Highlands, part of the National Scenic Area of Ben Nevis and Glen Coe. It is owned and administered by The National Trust for Scotland who run a visitor centre with an exhibition presenting natural and social history of the area (charge applies, 6 GBP at 2012 prices).

The glen is 16km long and it's entered from the west from Rannoch Moor, heralded from afar by the characteristic shape of Buachaille Etive Mor, marking the beginning of both Glen Coe and the neighbouring Glen Etive. On the southern side of the glen there are also Buachaille Etive Beag, Three Sisters, and Bidean nam Bian. On the north side of the glen is the Aonach Eagach ridge, a solid wall of a mountain and one of the most famous and very demanding ridge walks in Scotland. Glen Coe offers a variety of walks as well as serious climbing to hikers of all abilities. There is also a ski centre nearby (not in the glen as such).

Glen Coe has been voted one of the seven wonders of Scotland by the readers of the Scotsman newspaper and it combines the natural and historical attraction. The latter is associated with the Massacre of Glencoe of 1692, when the Jacobite Clan MacDonald of Glencoe was decimated by the forces loyal to William & Mary under Robert Campbell.

My travels in the Highlands proper have been fairly limited, and there are plenty of famous sights and views I am yet to see (either because I didn't make it there or – quite a few times – because the view in question was swathed in mist or clouds). But in my limited experience, Glen Coe is all that it's made out to be, and more: among the most dramatic, moody, atmospheric locations in the country, with the unique combination of the mountains, weather and the tangible feel of historical drama. The glen is quite narrow, and the mountains close on it, especially in the central part. I saw it first time in the late 1990s, during my first-ever trip to Scotland. It was grey and forbidding then, the mountain tops disappearing in the whiteout of the mist. I remembered it all this time and during the more recent visit it lived up to all the expectations: this time green and golden in the sunshine, the mountain sides in clear relief enhanced by the snow, the peaks craggy against blue sky on which white, curly clouds are running.

It's good to get out and walk, even if you are not into serious (or even moderate) hillwalking, you can amble along the road or walk to the bottom of the glen for a stroll. The vistors' centre is kind of good (the building is eco-designed in the style of a Highland village), but often busy and quite expensive for what it is.

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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 13, 2012

Glen Coe/Glencoe Visitor Centre
A82, 1 Mile East of Glencoe Village
Highlands of Scotland

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