Pacing Perfect Petra

Ancient City of Petra

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Attraction | "Getting the measure of Petra"

Roman Remains at Petra Photo - Ancient City of Petra, Petra, Jordan

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Petra was built around 2,500 years by the Nabatians, a trading Arab tribe. The Nabatians discovered a value to locally found bitumen and copper. Soon, they had more wealth than they knew what to do with. They did what many men do; attempt to buy their way to everlasting life by carving ornate temple caves out of the rock in the Petra valley to please their God and in tribute to their ancestors.On the peaks above Petra, the Nabatians created a mountain top temple, complete with drainage channels possibly for sacrificial blood to drip down the mountainside to demonstrate very physically just how godly they were. It appears this show of devotion or wealth didn’t help the Nebatians...Read More

Petra was built around 2,500 years by the Nabatians, a trading Arab tribe. The Nabatians discovered a value to locally found bitumen and copper. Soon, they had more wealth than they knew what to do with. They did what many men do; attempt to buy their way to everlasting life by carving ornate temple caves out of the rock in the Petra valley to please their God and in tribute to their ancestors.

On the peaks above Petra, the Nabatians created a mountain top temple, complete with drainage channels possibly for sacrificial blood to drip down the mountainside to demonstrate very physically just how godly they were.

It appears this show of devotion or wealth didn’t help the Nebatians, as they were slowly battered into history by stronger civilisations, including Alexander the Great and the Romans.

It's best to get to Petra as early as humanly possible. If you buy a two/three day pass you can pass ticket inspection as early as sunrise, meaning the Siq is pretty much yours. The reasonably energetic can be trekking towards the further treasures of Petra by the time day trippers are tripping over each other in the hunt to capture that elusive deserted photograph at the Treasury.

As well as the temples, the Roman remains are interesting (particularly the Colonnaded Street, and the grand open air Amphitheatre), but if you are visiting the Roman remains at Jeresh to the north of Jordan, your time is better spent exploring the Petra Tombs. There are also ruins of a byzantine era Church on the site.

To one side of the main valley, a route allows the visitor to explore along a whole range of large Tombs hacked out of the rock, some requiring step ladders to enter as they were carved above the height of others in the cliff face. Unlike many western attractions, you are free to wander amongst the tombs, enter the caves and touch the rocks.

One good tip is to take a packed lunch with you into Petra as there is only one overpriced and overcrowded "package tour" restaurant in the centre of Petra itself. A meal here is an excellent way to kill the atmosphere of Petra.

We enjoyed taking a short hike to find a quiet spot in the shade of a temple to share our meal with one of the many Petra stray cats. There are a number of local Bedouin tents in the "main drag" offering a shady space for a seat and a soft drink or tea. Some even sell cans of alcohol free lager to those who find it difficult to believe beer isn’t widely on sale. Other stalls on the site sell jewellery, ornate images made from different coloured sand stored in bottles, and fake artefacts.

Many (particularly US visitors) fit in Petra in a flying day-trip visit from Israel. For these folk, the Jordanian government have set a harsh entrance fee of 90 JD (£80). Those staying overnight in Petra pay 50 JD for one day entrance, and it becomes better value for hard core Petra fans at 55 JD for a 2 day pass and 60 JD for a 3 day ticket.

The Jordanians reward people who spend money in their country. Those that don't stay in Jordan miss a treat as there is plenty more to see in this small country, and Jordan is a friendly, polite and hassle free kind of place.

All ticket prices includes a single led horse trip down (or up) some of the way from the main entrance gates to Petra to the entrance of the Siq. There is also promise of a free leaflet, but it is literally just a folded sheet of paper, and totally insufficient as a guide for a serious 3 day explorer. If you intend to walk to some of the further Petra attractions take a good guide book with you.

As we had a full three days in Petra to explore, we took a number of routes away from the "main drag" to get a quieter experience. Even with 3 days, we only saw a portion of the whole site, although after 2 days you get the measure of the place.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 28, 2012

Ancient City of Petra
Petra Gates To El Khasneh
Ma'an Governorate, Jordan

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The Treasury (al-Khazna)

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Attraction | "Tourist trap but still amazing"

Petra Treasury Photo - The Treasury (al-Khazna), Petra, Jordan

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Perhaps it says something for humanity's lazy nature, but the first monument viewed after the trek down the Siq is the most famous and revered; the Treasury. Note it is in shadow for much of the day, so a fairly early morning skoot down the Siq provides the best time for photos (about 2 hours after sun up).For many people the Treasury is Petra, and as it was used in the filming of Indiana Jones, you will hear people humming the theme tune as you wander down the Siq. I seriously worry for the future of humanity sometimes. In fact, if you take the time to really explore the site of Petra, the Treasury is only one of perhaps half a dozen equally impressive tombs (and just one of o...Read More

Perhaps it says something for humanity's lazy nature, but the first monument viewed after the trek down the Siq is the most famous and revered; the Treasury. Note it is in shadow for much of the day, so a fairly early morning skoot down the Siq provides the best time for photos (about 2 hours after sun up).

For many people the Treasury is Petra, and as it was used in the filming of Indiana Jones, you will hear people humming the theme tune as you wander down the Siq. I seriously worry for the future of humanity sometimes.

In fact, if you take the time to really explore the site of Petra, the Treasury is only one of perhaps half a dozen equally impressive tombs (and just one of over 800 different tombs in Petra overall).

To be truthful, the location for the Treasury is superb, as you can catch that photo of it peaking through the end of the Siq (a narrow tunnel of eroded rock), and of course it gives a fairly easy reward for the day trippers. It has to also be remembered that at the time the temple was built, the Siq was not the main entrance to the site. What we see today as a stunning introduction to the site was originally in something of a backwater.

The Treasury and all the other buildings you see in Petra were not built, but hewn and carved out of a solid rock cliff face. I like to think the buildings are constructed in reverse from a modern day building.

At the entrance to the building is a grille to save tourists from a drop below. This spot is home to a good number of Petra cats, but given the number of adoring tourists, and the local bars selling soft drinks around the Treasury, save your tidbits from your pre-prepared lunch for those cats living in less central locations.

I managed to take a few good, and less crowded photos from a slight angle to the site and a temple with downstairs steps allow you to suddenly lose the bustle of modern tourist Petra.

While I have a little sneer at the commerciality of the location (well, it would be good, wouldn't it?) the Treasury is one of the more ornately carved structures of Petra. I do admire the bullet holes clearly spotted in the decorated vases towards the top of the building; although solid stone, apparently for years locals and visitors alike liked to believe it was a hollow vase filled with treasure.

Many of the day trippers manage to take the wander down from the Treasury into the Main Street valley which is just about a half mile walk from end to end. There are some good Roman and Byzantine remains (with some earlier Greek origins in view); interestingly a later town for the living, built in the centre of the earlier Nebatian tribute to the dead.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 27, 2012

The Treasury (al-Khazna)

Petra / Wadi Musa, Jordan

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Petra: The Siq

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Attraction | "The Siq: fantastic gateway to Petra "

Petra Siq Photo - Petra: The Siq, Petra, Jordan

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While Petra is associated with the Indiana Jones movies, a couple of minutes just surveying the scene at the head of the Siq (the main modern day entrance to the temples of Petra) could have you thinking they are filming a new Pirate of the Caribbean. It is typical Bedouin fashion; the male vendors of the numerous camel and horse rides down the Siq wear their hair long, grow wispy beards and put kohl around their eyes. While it works for the younger and skinnier men, unfortunately a few of the older and fatter guys look more Boy George than Johnny Depp.Most tourists to Petra start from the adjoining town of Wadi Musa, and so their route into Petra is down the long and narrow w...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 26, 2012

Petra: The Siq
Entry Hike Into Petra
Petra, Jordan

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The Monastery

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Attraction | "Petra's Second Most Famous Monument but the Grandest"

The Monastery at Petra Photo - The Monastery, Petra, Jordan

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A walk to the single most impressive monument in Petra takes over 800 hard but well spaced out steps up hill, but most people find the journey to the hugely imposing Monastery most worthwhile. The trip to the Monastery seems to be the route almost "everyone" attempts, so the path is quite busy. However hot and red in the face you might get climbing up the hill, I will vouch there will be someone redder and hotter making the attempt on this route. However, fat and unfit you might feel, I will vouch... OK, you get the picture.The walk to the Monastery itself actually isn't the most exciting as the path is the most maintained on the site, and there is a steady line of trinket sell...Read More

A walk to the single most impressive monument in Petra takes over 800 hard but well spaced out steps up hill, but most people find the journey to the hugely imposing Monastery most worthwhile.

The trip to the Monastery seems to be the route almost "everyone" attempts, so the path is quite busy. However hot and red in the face you might get climbing up the hill, I will vouch there will be someone redder and hotter making the attempt on this route. However, fat and unfit you might feel, I will vouch... OK, you get the picture.

The walk to the Monastery itself actually isn't the most exciting as the path is the most maintained on the site, and there is a steady line of trinket sellers right along the route: the sellers aren't hassle and you can walk past with a smile, but it isn't exactly an untrodden way either. While there are some temples and caves to view while you make your steady climb, they aren't anything like as impressive as the stunning structures you can spot on the way back down from the Place of High Sacrifice.

On the path you can at least regularly amuse yourself at the sight of the wild eyed tourist who decided it was a good idea to take a donkey ride for the trip. While the path is the best made bar the entrance way into Petra itself (the Siq), it still have lots of steps and tight bends. Unfortunately I missed the comedy photo opportunity to take a shot of the screaming middle aged woman who seemed to be almost completely vertical to her uncontrolled and happily racing tiny donkey beneath her. Perhaps you will be luckier as for all I know she is still careering around the upper reaches of the path.

If you don't think you can walk the couple of miles up to the Monastery after the mile hike down into the Siq, I'd advise you take a donkey or cart first down the Siq to the main site; you will then be fresh for the trek to the Monastery. The route down the Siq is so much easier for donkey or horse transport.

The Monastery itself (it was never a real Monastery, just looked like one to Western eyes) is just huge at approximately 170 foot wide and 150 foot high. The structure is so immense the entrance to the cave is at around shoulder height. Unfortunately, at my age, and with rather more than my best fighting weight sunk to my belly, my arm strength would not have been up to the challenge. However, it is just like a cave inside (sadly quite a few of the insides of the temples on the more popular routes just smell of urine).

Beyond the Monastery is a walk to three look out points across the desert from the mountain ridge above. Each of the lookout points are well worth the extra effort although all offer cunning ways for locals to attract you to their jewellery store. At the "best view point in Petra" a couple of locals were playing three blind mice on traditional instruments. You can drink tea or have a soft drink or water at a number of points up to and around the Monastery, and the prices aren't too prohibitive.

From the top above the Monastery you get a tantalising view of the beautiful Wadi Rum desert beyond, we found it particularly exciting as it was our next stop on our Jordan tour.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 24, 2012

The Monastery
Hills above Petra
Petra, Jordan

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Ancient City of Petra

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Attraction | "My absolute favourite Petra Hike"

Petra's Garden Tomb Photo - Ancient City of Petra, Petra, Jordan

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I found this Petra circular walk to offer the best "bang for your buck" as there are great views from the top and a series of fascinating tombs to explore. The route starts from near the ruins of the Roman amphitheatre in the main basin of Petra. While I can't advise visitors to ignore the signs imploring you to only take the route with the aid of an official guide, it is clear to follow, there are a good number of fellow walkers, and although steep, safe underfoot. The cynic in me suggests the sign is an attempt to get gullible tourists to part with their money. Obviously, it helps to wear proper walking shoes, and take plenty of water (although there are a few tea sellers en-route). ...Read More

I found this Petra circular walk to offer the best "bang for your buck" as there are great views from the top and a series of fascinating tombs to explore.

The route starts from near the ruins of the Roman amphitheatre in the main basin of Petra. While I can't advise visitors to ignore the signs imploring you to only take the route with the aid of an official guide, it is clear to follow, there are a good number of fellow walkers, and although steep, safe underfoot. The cynic in me suggests the sign is an attempt to get gullible tourists to part with their money. Obviously, it helps to wear proper walking shoes, and take plenty of water (although there are a few tea sellers en-route).

The route is (literally) not one for the feint hearted, but I spotted a number of fit 70+ year olds admiring the view across Petra from the top, which made my sweating form look and feel most unfit. I wouldn't call the route particularly busy, but you will pass quite a few folks enroute, and this is particularly true for the end of the route, which is on the edge of the main valley bottom of the site.

Some people are disappointed with the alter itself, but to me it is one of the most spectacular sacrificial alters you will ever see. You can clearly see carved out pools and channels where blood might have dripped down the mountainside after a sacrifice to the followers standing below.

Slightly more disappointingly the Place of High Sacrifice is not on top of the highest mountain in Petra, although the view is spectacular nevertheless.

To make the route circular aim for the Obelisks on the other side of the top of the mountain (interestingly these are not free-standing as the Nabatean builders made huge efforts to instead lower the mountainside, to expose them).

Just before the Obelisks go straight ahead past the teashop and slowly down through a good number of monuments before reaching back to the valley bottom. Again, this route is well trod, but it is quieter than the main attractions on the valley bottom. There are a couple of steep sections with nasty (but quite short) drops; if you don't like heights or steps then this might not be for you.

My favourite tomb is an obvious choice; the garden tomb; originally watered via the extremely intricate Petra irrigation system. However, there are plenty for others to choose as towards the bottom the route feels like a veritable street with tombs dotted almost in a long line. Along this walk you really see the rich colours within the natural rock of reds and greens.

While I can understand the hike to the Monastery might be "the one" for most one day only visitors, I'd stick my neck out and say you get far more variety and a feel for Petra by taking this route instead.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 23, 2012

Ancient City of Petra
Petra Gates To El Khasneh
Ma'an Governorate, Jordan

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Umm al Biyara

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Attraction | "A peaceful hard climb to Umm al Biyara"

Leaving the main part of Petra behind Photo - Umm al Biyara, Petra, Jordan

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For our final day we decided to climb one of the higher peaks and take a walk from the crowds. While I had gotten a little fed up with the sheer numbers of people wandering over the most popular sites (the siq, the treasury and the climb to the Monastery in particular), we moved from the ridiculous to the sublime – we passed only one other party enroute all day. The quiet of Umm al Biyara gave a hint of what the original travellers must have experienced in Petra, although it also felt just a little scary; we may have been up there hours had we had an accident. First up, we wandered through the Bedouin camp on the edge of the main Petra attractions beyond the cafe and the museum, to the r...Read More

For our final day we decided to climb one of the higher peaks and take a walk from the crowds. While I had gotten a little fed up with the sheer numbers of people wandering over the most popular sites (the siq, the treasury and the climb to the Monastery in particular), we moved from the ridiculous to the sublime – we passed only one other party enroute all day. The quiet of Umm al Biyara gave a hint of what the original travellers must have experienced in Petra, although it also felt just a little scary; we may have been up there hours had we had an accident.

First up, we wandered through the Bedouin camp on the edge of the main Petra attractions beyond the cafe and the museum, to the romantically named snake monument (which on sight could just as easily be called the monument to dog poo, as it is badly eroded).

The journey is more memorable than the destination; through Bedouin homes and herds of goats on a deserted path. A friendly local helped explain where the statue was and suggested a short cut for us.

From the dog po... sorry snake monument, we could have trekked on to the alleged burial site of Aaron (Moses' brother) on Jabel Harun. This is on top of the highest mountain in the area at about 4,400 feet high (just beat a trail to the white mosque on top of the hill).

Instead, we decided to retrace our steps most of the way back to the Petra basin, and hunt down the path to the scary 920 or so steps to the top of the flat topped Umm al Biyara. The official information describes the route as one to be taken only in the company of an official guide. Unfortunately, they had priced themselves out of the market, and there was no possible way to get lost (there is only one way up and down). The only slightly tricky bit is remembering where the path leads off from the top.

We found the route a hard if straightforward climb, with a great deal of steps running one after another. There are some rocks and shale on the man-made steps, some of these have been created by walkers boots kicking the earth as they travel up and down, but a great many have simply fallen from the steep cliff face ahead of you. Given the sheer number of rocks there, it felt a miracle that we didn't end up with one on our heads, but I guess in reality the chances of you being in the wrong place at the wrong time is remote. The bigger danger is that the rocks and shale are more likely to trip you up. The drop over the edge can be very scary in places.

I'm a bit of a wuss for heights, so if I can do it, I'm sure you too can make the climb...

At the top is a ruined ancient village and archaeologists have determined building ended on the site around 2000 years ago. You can poke around the ruined walls of houses, although I didn't find anything (like pottery) to pour over. Obviously, if you spot such items, you should leave them where you found them.

There is very little shade on the top, although we found a few bushes where we ate our packed lunch and obtained some shelter from the relentless sun. There is nothing else up here, so make sure you take any food and drink you might need.

You get a good view across the valley, and can certainly just about see the Monastery and other temples from the top.

There is some suggestion that the villagers were pushed off the steep mountain top by an invading force some time in the distant past. Given the steep and scary climb up to the top, it is a sobering thought that folks might have met their end by taking the fast exit off the top.

The quiet at Umm al Biyara was only interrupted by the shouts of locals far below in the valley, and the bells of animals. It made a great contrast to our Petra exploring. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 21, 2012

Umm al Biyara

Petra, Southern Jordan

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