Exploring Both Sides of Dubrovnik’s City Walls

Ancient City Walls

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Attraction | "Walking the City Walls"

Dubrovnik City Walls Photo - Ancient City Walls, Dubrovnik, Croatia

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Walking the old town city wall is an obligatory part of visiting Dubrovnik. The wall encircles the old town and while the views across the city’s red roofs are memorable, it is the views outside of the old town that really impress. The main period of building was during the 12th – 17th centuries. The wall runs for almost two kilometers and reaches a top height of 25 metres. Once a line of defense it is impressive that the wall has been so well preserved that it is still possible to tour the entire route. Audio guides are available to hire for an additional cost but it is equally nice to wander around at leisure and enjoy the many great views from the four sides of the old city....Read More

Walking the old town city wall is an obligatory part of visiting Dubrovnik. The wall encircles the old town and while the views across the city’s red roofs are memorable, it is the views outside of the old town that really impress.

The main period of building was during the 12th – 17th centuries. The wall runs for almost two kilometers and reaches a top height of 25 metres. Once a line of defense it is impressive that the wall has been so well preserved that it is still possible to tour the entire route. Audio guides are available to hire for an additional cost but it is equally nice to wander around at leisure and enjoy the many great views from the four sides of the old city.

The Main Entrance is near the Pile Gate but there are three other entrances around the wall. We entered close to the Ploce Gate on the other side of the old town. The entrance fee is 70 kuna (about £8 / $12.70) and the ticket is good for the day so if you want to walk part of the wall in the morning and more in the afternoon if you so wish. There are a few places to pick up snacks along the way but fortunately there aren’t too many stalls to clutter up the narrow walkway. However on a hot day it is probably advisable to take a bottle of water as there is little shade and a couple of steep stretches, one being the Minceta Tower in the northwest corner.

To walk the whole way round takes at least an hour and a half. It is possible to walk round in less time but this would mean barely stopping to take any photographs, which would be a near impossibility for any normal person.

From the Ploce Gate we headed north. Signs keep visitors moving in an anti-clockwise direction. At the northeast corner there was a man selling lace and tablecloths with a couple of half hearted tourists taking interest.

The main views along the north wall are of the cable car that scales Mount Srdj and the small neighbourhood just outside the old city wall. Looking south, Dubrovnik’s famed terracotta tiles carpet the rooftops until they meet the Adriatic Sea at the south wall. A the Minceta Tower it is possible to climb higher still and peak out of the turret at the city below.

Along the west wall at the Pile Gate entrance it is possible to get a birds eye view of the Onofrio Fountain and a clear view down Stradun. To the other side is the Lovrijenac Fortress, which sits on its own rock high above the bright blue surf. The waters continue along the side of the west wall and eventually open out into the sea. It is the sea view which dominates the walk along the south wall and is arguably the most scenic stretch. The water is a rich blue and looked positively calm and deserted with not even a cruise ship to spoil the skyline.

Although I didn’t venture inside, there is a souvenir shop about mid way and just after, it is possible to see the Buza bar terrace on the rock ledges below. There is also a small café along this stretch where you can pick up post cards, an ice cream or a water refill. This was also one of the few places where I saw buildings in a state of ruin. Rebuilding in Dubrovnik has been so successful that I had seen few places under construction or in a state of ruin. It was an interesting contrast to the city centre and to be able to see it from a vantage point.

As we turned the corner and headed back to the Ploce Gate the old port soon came back into view. The wall narrows in this section but the vistas are no less impressive and it was with some reluctance that I descended the stone stairway back into the mêlée of the city below. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 12, 2011

Ancient City Walls
Old City
Dubrovnik, Croatia

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Comfort Zone Space Spa and Wellness Centre

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Attraction | "A Special Sea View Spa Treatment "

Comfort Zone Space at The Excelsior Photo - Comfort Zone Space Spa and Wellness Centre, Dubrovnik, Croatia

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Prior to our rather delicious meal at the Excelsior, we had been given a short tour of the hotel and this included an overview of their spa facilities. I had been impressed what I had seen and on examining the list of treatments more carefully, I had been pleasantly surprised to find that they were quite affordable. Fortunately you don’t have to be a guest at the hotel in order to book an appointment at their spa. They offer a comprehensive range of manicures, pedicures, facials, waxing, make up and massage treatments. We were immediately attracted to the list of massages, which included a 75 minute hot stone massage for a very reasonable 395 kuna (£45 / $72).We managed to call...Read More

Prior to our rather delicious meal at the Excelsior, we had been given a short tour of the hotel and this included an overview of their spa facilities. I had been impressed what I had seen and on examining the list of treatments more carefully, I had been pleasantly surprised to find that they were quite affordable.

Fortunately you don’t have to be a guest at the hotel in order to book an appointment at their spa. They offer a comprehensive range of manicures, pedicures, facials, waxing, make up and massage treatments. We were immediately attracted to the list of massages, which included a 75 minute hot stone massage for a very reasonable 395 kuna (£45 / $72).

We managed to call and make an appointment for the following afternoon. The spa is on what would probably be considered the basement level, but it is light and airy, with pool views of the island of Lokrum and the sandy coloured limestone floors and walls reflecting the soft light that comes in through the tall windows.

I checked in for my appointment and after filling out a short health questionnaire I was shown through to their treatment room. They provide an interesting underwear garment although I was told that I could wear my own if I preferred. The room was comfortably warm and unlike some treatment rooms I have been in, wasn’t small or cramped. After a while the masseuse came back in and wafted the scent of the essential oils under my nose and invited me to take three deep breaths.

The massage itself was great and the staff here obviously knows what they’re doing. My only tinge of disappointment was that she didn’t massage my scalp but having spent so long on my legs, arms and back, it is a very minor complaint. Plus with hot stone massage, there is additional time needed for the placement and movement of the pebbles.

It was over all too soon so I sleepily dressed and made my way to the pool area. If you book a spa treatment of an hour or more, you are entitled to use the pool facilities. The pool was practically deserted, with only one other lady in sight and after dipping her toe in the pool, she quickly disappeared. It’s not that the water was cold, it wasn’t. It is kept at a slightly cooler temperature but one that is conducive to making you swim rather than lounge. If relaxing is more your style, then there are two jacuzzis, a sauna and two steam rooms. I was especially impressed with the steam rooms and their mood lighting, which alternated from white, to blue, to purple, to green, to red and back again.

There are lockers for clothes and valuables in the changing rooms and plenty of towels. There was also some soap and lotion and a hairdryer. The changing room is quite small so if it ever gets busy then you may have to jostle for space but in October at least it was as if I had my own private pool and spa for the afternoon. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 12, 2011

Comfort Zone Space Spa and Wellness Centre
Excelsior Hotel, Frana Supila 12
Dubrovnik, Croatia
385 20 353 390

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Dubrovnik Cable Car

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Attraction | "Dubrovnik's Cable Car Back Up and Running"

Dubrovnik Cable Car Photo - Dubrovnik Cable Car, Dubrovnik, Croatia

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Rising up behind the old town is stone wall of Mt Srdj. It is now once again possible to scale the hillside by way of the cable car, which reopened in July 2010. In 1991, bombing damaged the popular tourist attraction and closed it for almost twenty years. While a return ticket isn’t particularly cheap (80 kuna), it is worth it to get a birds eye view of what is a spectacularly beautiful city. The other option is to walk up although speaking to a lady who did it, the hillside path isn’t very clearly marked and is a little challenging to find. The cars leave fairly regularly although staff misinformed us about the return trip time and we rather annoying missed a car down so if you have an a...Read More

Rising up behind the old town is stone wall of Mt Srdj. It is now once again possible to scale the hillside by way of the cable car, which reopened in July 2010. In 1991, bombing damaged the popular tourist attraction and closed it for almost twenty years. While a return ticket isn’t particularly cheap (80 kuna), it is worth it to get a birds eye view of what is a spectacularly beautiful city. The other option is to walk up although speaking to a lady who did it, the hillside path isn’t very clearly marked and is a little challenging to find.

The cars leave fairly regularly although staff misinformed us about the return trip time and we rather annoying missed a car down so if you have an appointment to keep it’s worth checking. The journey up the hillside is fast, probably five minutes or less and the ride is surprisingly smooth.

At the top is a restaurant, gift shop and the Homeland War Museum, which is a separate entry fee and set back from the cable car building itself.

The views are obviously the main draw here. The old town below shrinks into a small cluster and it is possible to get an appreciation of Dubrovnik’s maritime status. Lokrum is most immediately visible but to the west are the beginnings of the Elaphiti Islands.

Looking inland, the landscape is rather more bleak. A shrubby plateau nestles into the base of a cold, bare mountain and beyond that it is more of the same. Mount Srdj is where the Croats defended Dubrovnik from Serb-Montenegrin forces and where Napolean put up a fort after his 1806 victory over the Russians and Montenegrins.

Today it is easing back into its life as a tourist attraction but the recent war wounds create a sombre experience behind the uplifting seaward backdrop. Old photographs show the story of the cable car – the old cable car as it was before the war, the damage it sustained in the 1990s and the eventual rebuilding. Even the modern restaurant and gift shop at the cable car station seemed a bit cold and bare, in keeping with the mountain rather than the seascape.

I didn’t venture into the museum as unfortunately I didn’t have time but I did poke my head in. There is a 20 kuna entry fee.

Outside the only sound to be heard is the wind whipping at the Croatian flag, which stands proudly next to a tall antenna. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on November 12, 2011

Dubrovnik Cable Car
Zicara Dubrovnik, Lower Station, Petra Kresimira 4
Dubrovnik, Croatia
385 20 325 393

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Lokrum Island

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Attraction | "A Perfect Half Day Trip from Dubrovnik"

Lokrum Island Photo - Lokrum Island, Dubrovnik, Croatia

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Lokrum sits less than a kilometre away from Dubrovnik, separated by a stretch of sea water just wide enough to allow the island to retain its wild independence from the city. The name ‘Lokrum’ derives from the Latin work ‘acrumen’, which means ‘bitter fruit’. Orange and lemon trees have been on the island since ancient times and in more recent years, Lokrum has expanded its flora collection with the addition of a large botanical garden. Boats to Lokrum leave every hour from the old port of Dubrovnik and cost 50 kuna (£5.75 / $9.20) for a return ticket. The journey takes less than fifteen minutes, making Lokrum ideal for a day or even half day trip from Dubrovnik. And in October...Read More

Lokrum sits less than a kilometre away from Dubrovnik, separated by a stretch of sea water just wide enough to allow the island to retain its wild independence from the city.

The name ‘Lokrum’ derives from the Latin work ‘acrumen’, which means ‘bitter fruit’. Orange and lemon trees have been on the island since ancient times and in more recent years, Lokrum has expanded its flora collection with the addition of a large botanical garden.

Boats to Lokrum leave every hour from the old port of Dubrovnik and cost 50 kuna (£5.75 / $9.20) for a return ticket. The journey takes less than fifteen minutes, making Lokrum ideal for a day or even half day trip from Dubrovnik. And in October at least, it is also a place to come to get away from the cruise ship crowds, as they thankfully don’t have the time to venture far from the old city walls.

The first thing that strikes you as you venture up the path and into the woods on the island is the swathes of cracked limestone underfoot. Having seen limestone in rather a different form along Stradun it was interesting to walk walking across it in its natural state. The corridors of pine trees also create a greater separation from the mainland and the only sound is of the wind whistling through the perimeter vegetation.

We walked to the old monastery, which is close to the only restaurant on the island (although it looked like more of a café than a restaurant). We passed by the saltwater lake known as the ‘Dead Sea’ but it was little more than a large pool.

A Benedictine abbey and monastery were first founded on the island in 1023 although the last monks left the island in 1798. The monastery building that remains is half ruin and half restored. We wandered around the scattering of broken pillars and exposed foundations. A television crew had taken over the main building so we couldn’t venture inside. Families of peacocks roam the island, picking at the ground amongst the lines of cypress trees.

Next to the monastery is the botanical garden, which was founded in 1959. The Benedictines are credited with first cultivating exotic plants on the island and the garden is now home to a collection of Australian and South American shrubs, trees and cacti. The average temperature on the island is 16 degrees Celsius and the average rainfall 1294mm / year so it is no wonder that tropical species thrive here. Local landscape architect Dr. Bruno Sisic was responsible for the layout of the garden, which was hit by bombs over fifty times during the 1990s war.

We attempted to walk up to the fortress but some paths were closed due to fire warnings. Hosepipes were strewn along some of the pathways, with the risk of wildfires a serious concern. A kindly member of staff allowed us to sneak up the fortress path that begins close to the harbour but as we were keen to make the next boat back, we didn’t make it all the way to the fortress itself. The dusty track uphill is quite rocky so it pays to bring sturdy footwear. However if you’re happier to lounge around, there are seven beaches marked on the map, one of them nudist. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on November 12, 2011

Lokrum Island
Adriatic Sea
Dubrovnik, Croatia

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Rupe Ethnographic Museum

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Attraction | "A Spot of Culture and Agriculture "

Rupe Ethnographic Museum Photo - Rupe Ethnographic Museum, Dubrovnik, Croatia

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Perched high on Old Rupa is one of the city’s quieter museums. It’s not just the backstreet location that makes this museum less frequented, it is also the fact that unlike old monasteries and cathedrals, the idea of exploring an ‘ethnographic’ museum probably doesn’t appeal to many tourists. To be honest, it didn’t even appeal that much to me, which is partly why I thought I would check it out: to do something that I normally wouldn’t. The museum is laid out over three floors and provides a fascinating insight into Dubrovnik’s success as a city over the ages. The exhibition begins by giving an overview of the building, which was originally built as a granary. The local council too the dec...Read More

Perched high on Old Rupa is one of the city’s quieter museums. It’s not just the backstreet location that makes this museum less frequented, it is also the fact that unlike old monasteries and cathedrals, the idea of exploring an ‘ethnographic’ museum probably doesn’t appeal to many tourists. To be honest, it didn’t even appeal that much to me, which is partly why I thought I would check it out: to do something that I normally wouldn’t.

The museum is laid out over three floors and provides a fascinating insight into Dubrovnik’s success as a city over the ages. The exhibition begins by giving an overview of the building, which was originally built as a granary. The local council too the decision in 1548 to invite a master builder from Apulia in Italy to build a granary in the city. They agreed to pay him six gold ducats a month and the wily builder somehow managed to drag the project out for the next forty-two years!

The very top floor (where you can now find the toilets) was where wheat was originally hoisted to be dried. It would then be dropped to the floors below by way of four still visible ducts in the side walls. Other major buildings in Dubrovnik – the Monastery of St. Andrew and St. Mark, the Municipal Hospital, the Convent of St. Mary, St. John’s Fort - were also used for grain storage and the Rupe Museum claims that even during times of hardship, food distribution by the local government was so well managed that the citizens never went hungry.

On the ground floor it is possible to look through the twelve holes (the Croatian word for holes being ‘rupe’) and into the vast storage wells. Most now contain a scattering of glinting pennies but the middle well is filled almost to the rim to give you an idea of the colossal amount of grain that they can hold.

Moving on, I found a number of traditional Dinaric cultural costumes on display. The making of many of the garments at the museum was discontinued after the Second World War so many are considered quite valuable due to their rarity. The Dinaric wedding dress is a colourful flourish of red, pink and yellow flowers with a headdress curiously decorated in what looks like Christmas tinsel. The jewelry is also fascinating, with young women being given up to twelve rings from her fiancé on announcement of their engagement. Gold needles would decorate shawls and be matched with gold earrings and cascading coin necklaces.

Up to the first floor and the exhibition continues with displays of different farming instruments for sowing and harvesting, grindstones for extracting olive oil, grape presses for wine, butter churns, sheep shears, fishing nets, beehives for honey and racks for drying figs. While I’m sure the work wasn’t easy, it’s not hard to see why this region was able to provide so well for itself.

While the boards on the ground floor provide lengthy translations into English, this tails off a bit on the first floor. You get the gist of what is presented but the it is perhaps another reason why non-Croatian speakers may not feel compelled to come here. Also the museum curators aren’t the happiest or most hospitable bunch and while a TV on the ground floor provides some background noise, the two upper floors are almost deathly quiet.

The second floor is a continuation of the costume and textile theme with beautiful examples of the exquisite embroidery and lacemaking on display. The other cabinets in the room are a little different. Musical instruments, artwork, a small pistol collection, weaving and decorated Easter eggs make up a hodgepodge of what is the final collection on display. Explanations in any language are sorely lacking in this room, which is a shame as it would help bring to life what looks like a neglected part of the museum.

The other thing to note at the Rupe Museum is that as you ascend the staircases, it is worth sticking your head out of the windows for some good views across the city.

The museum is open from 9am – 4pm every day except Tuesday and an adult ticket is 40 kuna (about £5 / $7.40). It is an interesting museum but the staff and the displays don’t do it justice so for that reason, I find it hard to urge anyone to make a special trip.
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Member Rating 3 out of 5 on November 12, 2011

Rupe Ethnographic Museum
Old Rupa
Dubrovnik, Croatia
020 412 545

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War Photo Limited Museum

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Attraction | "A Time for Reflection"

War Photo Limited Photo - War Photo Limited Museum, Dubrovnik, Croatia

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At the top of the dark stairs of this gallery is a quote by Carl Philipp Gottfried von Clausewitz. And no, I’d never heard of him either. Fortunately his quote is easier to remember than his name: "War is a continuation of politics by other means." Mr. Clausewitz died in 1831 but his quote is as relevant today as it was in his time. The photographic exhibitions span two floors, with the permanent ‘Blood and Honey’ on the upper floor. Ron Haviv’s slideshow of the wars of the former Yugoslavia that broke out in 1991 is presented with an audio montage of news reports, singing crowds, protests, music and the chatter of everyday people. It is the coverage of people going about their business, o...Read More

At the top of the dark stairs of this gallery is a quote by Carl Philipp Gottfried von Clausewitz. And no, I’d never heard of him either. Fortunately his quote is easier to remember than his name: "War is a continuation of politics by other means." Mr. Clausewitz died in 1831 but his quote is as relevant today as it was in his time.

The photographic exhibitions span two floors, with the permanent ‘Blood and Honey’ on the upper floor. Ron Haviv’s slideshow of the wars of the former Yugoslavia that broke out in 1991 is presented with an audio montage of news reports, singing crowds, protests, music and the chatter of everyday people. It is the coverage of people going about their business, or trying to, that I found most striking not only in Haviv’s work, but also in the work of the other exhibition there at the time of my visit.

There was also plenty of disturbing and alien images – a city building pockmarked by shrapnel with a lost cow standing in the doorway, gun-toting soldiers standing over dead civilians in the street, severely malnourished men with protruding vertebrae imprisoned in concentration camps.

Jon Jones 1991 print shows Dubrovnik bathed in an orange light. There is almost a beauty to it until you notice the smoke rising from the waterfront roads and the warm glow is coming from flames that have been lit by Serb artillery fire. Images captured by Jan Grarup and Claus Bjorn Larsen also stuck in my mind – a woman with her child sit in the shade of a tree by their house on a sunny day. The story is that her home has been burned and her husband is missing. Another shows a young imam praying in a meadow just before he joins the Kosovo Liberation Army. Behind him a field smolders. A third photograph is of a Kosovan Albanian boy bathing in a river after liberation. A burnt out vehicle dominates the foreground of an otherwise idyllic setting.

The museum hosts two exhibitions each season. The first runs from 1st May to the end of July and the second runs from the beginning of August until the end of October. The museum closes between November and April. During my visit, the exhibition was ‘On Revolution Road’ by Yuri Kozyrev. A photojournalist of 20 years, Kozyrev is a Muscovite but covered the Arab Spring of 2011 in Egypt, Libya, Bahrain and Yemen. His images were mainly of the local people who took part in the uprisings, the soldiers who opposed them and the moment when the two groups joined forces, crossed paths or became one. One of his photographs from Libya was particularly striking, especially when reading the background information. Anti-Gaddafi rebels apparently lacked the training and experience to use even basic weaponry but Kozyrev shows them doing it anyway, operating anti-aircraft guns and rocket-propelled grenades. His uplifting quote "Courage and optimism: these are the qualities the Sirocco carries with it, all the way across North America, and the Middle East" contrasts deeply with many of the images in the exhibition. Violence, despair and fear come through but so too do defiance, pride, optimism and determination.

One aspect I noticed about the gallery is that it is a wonderful exhibition space and the photos are sensitively lit. I know it sounds like an obvious thing to say but I’ve been to plenty of art galleries where the lighting or the space doesn’t always lend itself well to the calibre of art on display so it was refreshing to be in a space where the presentation of the photography was carefully considered.

While the work on display is provocative and difficult to view, War Photo Limited is definitely worth the 30 kuna (£3.45 / $5.54) entrance fee. I would allow about 1 – 1.5 hours to tour the gallery. It’s not very big but there is a large area upstairs to browse books and take time to consider the work on display. For the temporary exhibitions there is a comprehensive English-language guide booklet available to borrow.

The gallery is open every day from 10am – 4pm except Monday and closes for the winter. Next door is the Talir bar, which looked livelier at 1pm on a Saturday than it did later that evening. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on November 12, 2011

War Photo Limited Museum
Autuniska 6
Dubrovnik, Croatia 20000
385(20)322166

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Argosy Hotel

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Hotel | "An Out of Character Place to Stay"

The Argosy Hotel Photo - Argosy Hotel, Dubrovnik, Croatia

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The Argosy Hotel is located in the Babin Kuk neighbourhood, about a fifteen minute bus ride from the old town. Buses are quick and frequent but it’s still a bit of a schlep to get to most of Dubrovnik’s places of interest and with bus tickets at over £1 (almost $2) a trip, travel costs can add up over a few days. The hotel itself is quiet and clean. After a swift check-in, we were directed to our double room on the ground floor. Our room had a sliver of a sea view and a wide balcony overlooking orange and fir trees that were windswept by the sea breeze. The room itself was a good size with a white bathroom with powerful shower and a hairdryer. The double bed was incredibly wide...Read More

The Argosy Hotel is located in the Babin Kuk neighbourhood, about a fifteen minute bus ride from the old town. Buses are quick and frequent but it’s still a bit of a schlep to get to most of Dubrovnik’s places of interest and with bus tickets at over £1 (almost $2) a trip, travel costs can add up over a few days.

The hotel itself is quiet and clean. After a swift check-in, we were directed to our double room on the ground floor. Our room had a sliver of a sea view and a wide balcony overlooking orange and fir trees that were windswept by the sea breeze.

The room itself was a good size with a white bathroom with powerful shower and a hairdryer. The double bed was incredibly wide and had prime view of the TV and glass fronted minibar. While the room had a high ceiling and therefore appeared to be well aired, I found my eyes appeared quite tired after a couple of days (despite the fact that I slept really well) which made me wonder about the quality of the air in the room, not something I had ever considered before and all the stranger because it obviously wasn’t hermetically sealed as so many hotel rooms are.

Breakfast was served every morning in a large, lifeless dining room at the back of the hotel. Almost every item of breakfast food imaginable was on offer – fruit, cereal, pastries, eggs, bacon, sausages, toast, pancakes, yogurt, juice, tea, coffee – but that doesn’t mean it was good. The tea and coffee in particular were quite vile and while most of the food on offer was ok, the focus was evidently on quantity and not quality. Guests can go back as many times as they like to refill their plates so as long as you’re not expecting a gourmet breakfast you should be happy.

I found the staff to be friendly and extremely helpful. They arranged the hire car for us on our last day and they also booked our taxis to and from the airport. They all spoke good English, which was just as well as my Croatian is embarrassingly limited to ‘good morning’ and ‘thank you’.

There is a small outdoor pool which looked nice enough but I didn’t get the chance to use as it was just a little too chilly in October. Other than that we didn’t really make use of any other hotel facilities asides from the bar. They have a long TV room, which we passed one night on the way to our room. A film was playing to the empty room so I’m not sure how useful the room is. We also had drinks at their bar one night although we managed to avoid the live music entertainment that was setting up on the first night of our stay. A lady in what I assumed to be traditional dress was extending a microphone stand alongside her accompanying keyboard player. I heard from a fellow guest that their music sadly sounded far from traditional and cleared out the bar rather than encouraged people to stay and listen.

Overall the Argosy isn’t a bad place to stay. It is probably ideal for large groups as I imagine they offer good rates but it is a fairly uninspiring place and is a cross between a bland beach resort hotel and an old people’s home. It is definitely a quiet and comfortable place to stay but if you want a place to stay with at least a hint of Croatian character, you’re better off looking elsewhere. Read Less

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on November 7, 2011

Argosy Hotel
Iva Dulcica 41
Dubrovnik, Croatia 20000
877-662-6988

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