Highland Celebrations in Edinburgh

King Edwin of Northumbria built a fort on an immense crag around the 5th century which became known as "Edwins Burgh" but it wasn't until King Malcolm moved court here (mid 1000) that a town began to flourish.

Visit the Palace of Holyrood built by David 1 in 1128, where Rizzio was killed (later) in front of Mary Queen of Scots. The ruins of the abbey are eerie nextdoor. Walk the Royal Mile (also called High Street and Canongate in different sections) go past the toll building which used to be outside the protected walls, to St. Giles Catherdral built in 1120 with the Mercat Cross behind it. A few more blocks and you are at the entrance to CastleHill and the huge compound within.
a small loch to the North of the castle was filled in becoming Princess St. Gardens. Witches were once thrown into the water with hands tied. If one floated; they were hauled out and burned. If one drowned; guess it was a mistake!

Quick Tips:

There's plenty to do in Edinburgh any time of the year, but if you plan on coming in August you will be treated to a month of live entertainment beyond compare!

It all started with the "Tattoo" which was a parade of the drum and bagpipe corp of the Scot Regiments. It goes beyond this now, with international dancers such as those from the Cook Islands and the Russian Cossacks. Buy tickets online far in advance at: www.edinburgh-tatoo.co.uk

August in Edinburgh also means the International Jazz Festival and the Writers Festival featuring seminars with your favorite authors. Somehow, the international ballet season fits in too.

Is this too mainstream for you? Don't fret...there's the Fringe Festival with live venue's all over the city. Everything from the mainstream (but irreverent) BBC Comedy special to the outlandish body pierced chain and leather productions. The schedule is online at: www.edfringe.com -or- www.Festival.Scotsman.com

Can't make a decision? Just take a stroll down the Royal Mile any evening and you'll be entertained every step of the way!

Best Way To Get Around:

We found coupons in the Scotrail booklet for "Guide Friday's" double decker bus tour for . this is one of those tours that you can hop on and off all day long. I suggest taking the one hour roundabout tour (narrated by a real live person!) to orientate yourself to the city first.

There were plenty of cabs rotating about, but we walked most of the time, except one late night when the streets were empty. For for 4-5 people, it was a good deal!

www.the-stuarts.com
Located in a quiet residential area south of Old town (about a 10 minute walk) the Stuarts B&B is a 5 star accommodation.

Across the street is a large park with a soccer field if you just want to lay in the sun and relax.

Our stay with Goria was just wonderful. We are talking wrapped chocolates and complimentary white wine. We are talking blowdryers and hot curlers that you don''t have to use electrical adaptors on. We are talking a complete stereo system with a CD player in each room for all that bagpipe music you are going to buy!

Next....move on into the huge bathroom with the mega mirrors and mega lights for good makeup application and brow plucking or leg shaving. I just love those hot towel bars and thick white fluffy robes! First...you''ll have to sink into the large (and deep) tub for a good soak along with that white wine I told you about.

Feel like Jello yet???? If you can get out of the tub you can navigate the room itself that is more of a suite in size than a bed and breakfast type room. Comfortable arm chairs and a desk for writing out postcards or travel notes was a nice touch. Fall into a most comfortable and large bed in the wee hours of the Scottish night and awake to a fully stocked breakfast room with fresh and mixed fruits, yogurts, cold cereals and juices, scones and toast. Then move on to the eggs, oatmeal...oh...and there were some vegetarian choices as well.

We Arrived In Edinburgh late on our first evening from a train that couldn't get stocked with food before it left the station. Not that train food leaves much to the imagination!

It was about 9 pm on a Friday night and places were already closing...keep this in mind...these folks don't eat late like they do in Italy and France! The Panda Inn was 2 blocks away from where we were staying, so 3 of us made a dash for some food.

We were in for a bigger treat than listening to the owners sweet Chinese daughter speak with a Scottish Brogue!

I had the most outstanding Almond Chicken with Fried Rice ($6.50) and had so much fun with the chopsticks. Forks were available for the less patient.

We all enjoyed our meals so much, that we talked the other 4 into joining us there again on another evening. this time I had the Prawns with Cashew Nuts...very good for $6. Everyone raved about their dishes as well. I didn't try the curry dishes, but they were priced from $4.50-$5 and there were vegetarian choices on the menu as well.

This is a fairly small place with about 8-10 tables. The first night we were the only ones eating, but the second time we ate at about 5 pm and the place was packed full. It is best to call ahead during regular dinner hours and always give some warning if you have a group so this family can be prepared.

$6.75 adult entry, but cheaper if you buy a Scotland Pass for several historic building entries. BEST ADVICE: go early before the cruise ships and tours -or- late !

the Castle sits on top of a rocky crag with sheer walls on three sides and a slowly descending road that has become the Royal Mile. Archeological evidence shows that there has been a fortress here since 1,000 B.C.! It was said that it could not be invaded from the steep fronts but that was before THE BRUCE (Robert) handpicked 30 men to climb the rock on ropes at night to take the castle from the English.

Another time, men dressed up as women and entered the castle grounds brandishing their weapons from under their skirts!

The oldest building (1124) is a small chapel that David 1 built for his mother, St. Margaret. Across from this is the private chambers of Mary Queen of Scots where she delivered the first King of the United Great Britain-- James 1.

Another building holds the crown jewels that were lost in a locked box for over 100 years and two buildings are dedicated to the military and various wars.

The war Memorial is especially breathtaking in the stained glass room where Michael the Archangel hangs (floats?) above a pewter or silver covenant containing the names of all who died in WW11. It is the highest point in Edinburgh where Michael comes to guide the dead hero's to heaven.

There's a great cafeteria with hot and cold items, a whisky shop (try the cream whiskey that tastes like Baileys), a book store, and a clan shop.

When you exit, salute the statues of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace by the drawbridge....heroes of the land.

BEST ADVICE: This is a royal residence, so double check that the Queen isn't sleeping here! Go first or last thing during the day to avoid the tours and cruise ships!

Before you enter the tall ornate iron gates to the palace courtyard with the lovely crowned fountain, check out the small stone building near the street. It is rumored that this was Mary Queen of Scots' bathhouse where she bathed 3 times a year, while her cousin Elizabeth (Queen of England) only bathed once at Christmas!

We entered the Abbey of Holyrood first which was built by David 1 in 1128 after he was attacked at this spot by a raging stag that pinned him to the ground. Instead of seeing stars....he saw the cross of Christ between the antlers, and took it as a sign to build a monastery. During Scotland's bloody history, many royals were married here (Mary QOS TWICE)or buried here. There are stone coffins built into the floor. I assume they were filled at one time. If you look below, you will see that I found one that was a bit too perfect!

Since this is a royal residence...no photos! But I would have loved to get the Queens bedchamber with the burgundy and gold canopy bed with curtains that hang to the floor. Tall stone lions surround the fireplace with blue and white Dutch Delft tiles inside.

I loved the upright Flemish linen cabinet made of wood with pretty carved red hearts on it in Mary QOS' bedroom. Her gold silk bed has tall white feathers that reach the ceiling. In this room there is also a tortoise shell chest that gleams when the light touches it.

This is very near the rounded tower where her secretary, Rizzio was stabbed over 50 times in front of her eyes by men who wanted her to abort the child (and future king) she carried. Rizzio was dragged into the very next room, where there is still a darkened stain near the window where the body stayed that horrible night. In this same drawing room there is a life size painting of the knock-em dead queen. She was a pretty lady who went to her death in a flaming red petticoat as a message to her cousin Elizabeth that she was a martyr.

The Kings Closet has a harpsichord and harp that are matching in a Chinese enamel of black and gold that would have looked nice in my living room.

There are so many treasures here and fine portraits that I was on sensory overload and felt that a run in the garden was needed. The sun was illuminating the golden Arborvitae that formed a backdrop to the purple Salvia and the pink Astilbe. Take the hike up the extinct volcano (Arthur's Seat) for a great view.

Our group didn't want to contend with jumping ghouls and we wanted a more historic accounting so we took the last tour--9:30pm (remember: it's summer and lighter later!) for " the ghost hunter trail".

Our tour with university student, Kristen, started at the Mercat Cross and St. Giles before we went into the underground medieval caverns that were used by tradesmen.

The route is uneven and elevation changes do occur in very dim lighting, so please take this information into consideration.

The room that Kristen hates the most is one where a presence of a man likes to sneak up behind people...and he isn't nice! She won't do the very last tour where the candles are blown out in each room because she has felt his fingers through her hair before!

She talked about two evil characters who would kill the poor; later selling the bodies to the university as cadavers.

We walked about town and ended up in a canongate cemetery under a barren tree while the moon slid behind the clouds....perfect ending!

On our walk back I got to ask Kristen which tour she likes best...and that is the Mary Kings Close Tour which wanders through the ancient underground city. During the Plague, those living above blocked off the exits and every single soul died. Except one child was chosen to remain. Her home is now a shrine where people from around the world bring dolls and toys to ease her sadness and fear.

The Esplanade in front of the castle is turned into a parade ground with tall stadium seats during the month of August every year.

The Castle is the backdrop for hundreds of Scot regimental guards in full kilt dress playing music on bagpipe, fife and drum. You will get plenty of goosebumps as they march across the drawbridge in formation and in full song. This year, the Australian and Cook Island regiments joined the regular Scot Guards. Each has their own battle flags as well as their own dress colors while they all played their music like men possessed.

There were also perfromances by the Russian Cossack dancers with swords spitting flames from the friction and speed of the dance and Cook Island dancers in grass skirts and coconut bras. (I wanted to run down and put coats on those poor girls!) The Traditional Scottish Sword dance was perfromed by a highland dance school from Edinburgh. I've heard that the guest artists change during the month and end up representing most of the world!

Then there was a short demonstration of Scot Fighters from ancient times to the present with canon and musket fire smoking things up to keep the boys in the crowd excited.

It all ends with the castle lights turning to red with torches lighting the top ramparts. In the center stands a lone piper who represents all the fallen soldiers who have defended their country. As the pipes echo down the hill, those listening often shed a tear or two.

We went to the late show on the Queen Mums Birthday, so we had the extra treat of a fireworks show that was a spectacular burst of colors above the castle. The last perfromance of the season also has a fireworks show.

I ordered my tickets online in February and had 3rd and 4th row tickets: www.edinburgh-tatoo.co.uk
Prices range from $9-23.50 without handling charges.

Although there has been a church here since the 9th century the currant structure dates to 1140 in the area around the 4 central pillars. The tower is from the 15th century and the Thistle Chapel was added in 1911. It is a bit bizarre that the guillotine (named " the Maiden") was once stored here and that the church was divided into four different congregations. Must have been a confusing place to worship!

Enter the West doors and turn right. Along the back wall is a tomb carved in white marble dedicated to the 47 women and 124 children that were killed on the banks of the River by the English in 1844. No need to wonder why the Scots want independence even today. (* as a side note...the first-ever Scot Parliament building is under construction by Holyrood.)

I was confused when I continued walking the aisle and came to a document from 1638 called the National Covenant, but found out later that it was a formal protest by the people to changes proposed by the King in the reformed church.

Doesn't seem like a big deal now...but you could easily have lost your head expressing that opinion back then.

You'll pass a huge organ with 4,156 pipes. This is a 1992 replacement of a much older organ. We returned here one night for a free concert of Bach and other composers that was very well done.

Next, you'll approach the side altar dedicated to the Earl of Moray, who was assassinated. He was the illegitimate half brother of Mary QOS and his name was also James(as Mary named her son indicating that they were close.) It wasn't a good time to be a Roman Catholic, and the stained glass windows from 1883 tell the story.

The far right corner is the entry to the delightful Thistle Chapel. What a treat to see the ceiling of arched thistle in bloom made out of concrete!Thistle is the national "flower" for many reasons. It can be an irritating and painful thing if you happen to mistreat it.....and it's very hard to kill.

The order of the Thistle goes back to medieval times and is one of Scotland's highest honors. When you enter the chapel, you will see narrow wooden alcoves for each of the 16 knights. These wooden seats display religious ideas, family coats of honor, and ancient symbols such as dragons....all carved out of wood. Near the entrance is the Queen's stall and two others for royals.

Take your time and really explore the carved, and often painted,artistry in this room.

When I think of Edinburgh during the festival, I see images like a slide show that rotate through my mind.

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I loved walking the charming streets of Grassmarket with all the sidewalk pubs filled with people enjoying the day while I shopped the antique flea market out in the street.

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As we walked from Grassmarket under the bridge below the castle I held my breath as I listened to a lone saxophonist who knocked my socks off with the blues he was playing. The sound was amplified and intense as it echoed under the bridge.

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To the West of Princess St. Gardens is the St. Cuthbert Church and Cemetery. It is one of the oldest in Edinburgh and is eerie to walk through...even in the daylight! The tombstones are bigger than me and seem to close in around you. One person buried here is the author Thomas DeQuincey who wrote " Confessions of an English Opium Eater" which was a memoir written in 1800.
I was intrigued when my cousin told me that my Great-Grandmother had this book in her own collection....which I found to be very odd indeed. I can't envision MY Great-Gram reading about a drug addict?!

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Walking in the sun through Princess Gardens by the huge golden fountain of the muses of Science, Art, Poetry, and Industry. The top women holds the cup of plenty. Face the fountain and you will see the castle above for a nice photo.

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Stopping at the "Bagpipes Galore" store in Canongate and learning that the best bagpipes are made from African black wood, because it holds up well in water( bagpipers tend to spit a bit!). Traditionally the bags were made of sheepskin. While some still are; others are made of synthetics. Prices for a set start at $500.
The best treat was having Hamish Munro (The great and rather young competition winner)-- who was visiting the shop owner-- gave my cousin Jen her first lesson. She is a music major who is a bassoonist so she knows a B flat when she hears one! Anyhow....Hamish had a grand time getting her started and I just think he is the greatest of lads!

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Visiting the tartan plaid mills on the royal mile and finding my family name along with formal and daily kilt patterns. There are several kilt makers here too, such as Clan Albanach on High street and McCalls of the Royal Mile where you can rent-a-kilt for $ 29.50 a day. Trust me boys...this is a chic-magnet thing.

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wander the curved street called Victoria with the stone buildings painted in bright blue, burgundy, and white, for some fun shopping such as used book stores, jewelry and craft shops, art galleries, a blacksmith shop...and my favorite place to find antique bloomers...called Pine and Old Lace.