Culture on the Riviera

Cathedrale Orthodoxe Russe St-Nicolas a Nice

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Attraction | "Moscow on the Riviera"

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For quite some time, Nice's Russian Cathedral represented little more than an entry in guidebooks to the Cote d'Azur and a small picture on one of the tourist maps I picked up in the lobby of the hotel in which my mother was staying. It did, though, appear to be an interesting entry and an intriguing picture. So, on my mother's final afternoon in Nice, we decided to pay it a visit.Like many things in Nice - primarily those away from Promenade des Anglais - the Russian Cathedral took some finding. We took bus number 23 (although any bus that goes west of the train station would suffice) and got off near Avenue Thiers. From there, we had to navigate a few non-descript suburban streets and pa...Read More

For quite some time, Nice's Russian Cathedral represented little more than an entry in guidebooks to the Cote d'Azur and a small picture on one of the tourist maps I picked up in the lobby of the hotel in which my mother was staying. It did, though, appear to be an interesting entry and an intriguing picture. So, on my mother's final afternoon in Nice, we decided to pay it a visit.

Like many things in Nice - primarily those away from Promenade des Anglais - the Russian Cathedral took some finding. We took bus number 23 (although any bus that goes west of the train station would suffice) and got off near Avenue Thiers. From there, we had to navigate a few non-descript suburban streets and pass under a few bridges. We presumed it would be easy to spot as the guidebooks described as a smaller version of the cathedrals you might find in Red Square or St Petersburg. However, as it surrounded by residential housing, it was not until we were within a few hundred meters of it that we spotted the roof.

It was a spectacular view. The bright green tiles that cover the spherical tower-tops glistened in the sun as they poked out from between trees and surrounding houses. As we approached the view improved markedly. The cathedral is not massive in terms of scale, but it is in such contrast to its surroundings that it really captures the attention. It genuinely looks like something out of a Russian novel from the last century. The domes on the top of the towers seemed to transport me back to Tsarist Russia with their rather outlandish and distinctive style.

The comparisons to Red Square, St Petersburg and the opulent days of the Tsar is a rather predictable one as the cathedral was commissioned by Tsar Alexander II commissioned the cathedral whilst on vacation to Nice in 1864. It was built to serve the large Russian community in Nice and was completed in 1912. It still serves the large Russian community today. In fact, there remains a dispute between the Russian government and Russian emigres over who should wield control.

The one disappointing element of the Russian cathedral was the interior. The outside is bright, bold and visually stunning. However, once through the doors it is disappointingly dull. I would not really recommend paying the 3 Euro admission fee. Instead, I would simply sit outside and bask in its splendour. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on September 10, 2011

Cathedrale Orthodoxe Russe St-Nicolas a Nice
Av Nicolas II
Nice, Provence 06000
04 93 96 88 02

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Théâtre de la Photographie

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Attraction | "Pretty as a Picture"

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The trip my girlfriend and I took to the Theatre de Photographie et l'image was born out of a Sunday afternoon malaise. We had slept in until late morning and then enjoyed coffee and croissant for breakfast. However, by the time the afternoon was in full swing, we were growing a touch bored. So, we thought we would take an afternoon stroll and take a peak at some interesting photography.The Theatre goes on the list of interesting places in Nice that, despite living in the city, we had somehow overlooked. This was an inexplicable oversight as it is centrally located - just a few hundred meters from Avenue Jean Medecin in the heart of the city - and is free. It is also mentioned on several t...Read More

The trip my girlfriend and I took to the Theatre de Photographie et l'image was born out of a Sunday afternoon malaise. We had slept in until late morning and then enjoyed coffee and croissant for breakfast. However, by the time the afternoon was in full swing, we were growing a touch bored. So, we thought we would take an afternoon stroll and take a peak at some interesting photography.

The Theatre goes on the list of interesting places in Nice that, despite living in the city, we had somehow overlooked. This was an inexplicable oversight as it is centrally located - just a few hundred meters from Avenue Jean Medecin in the heart of the city - and is free. It is also mentioned on several travel websites' lists of the most interesting places to visit in Nice.

The premise behind the Theatre is simple. It displays photos of Nice and the surrounding area. It is situated in an old villa on a leafy avenue close to the Nice Etoile shopping Centre. It is not large in scope - the displays cover just the bottom floor of the villa - but it really is interesting with some wonderful photos on display. There is a tremendous blend of traditional photography and some other works that are slightly more modern.

On the traditional side, I was particularly struck by a montage of shots that showed the waves of the Mediterranean crashing over the sea wall and onto the Promenade des Anglais during heavy storms in 2010. I also very much enjoyed some of the black and white shots of churches and decaying buildings around the city. On the more modern side, both my girlfriend and I were struck by Lionel Bouffiet's Urbanite, which placed tourists or everyday people amidst some of Nice's industrial or urban scenery to create a delightful contrast.

We very much enjoyed the Theatre. I would heartily recommend it as it is both free and convenient as well as very interesting. My one disappointment was the gift shop, which did not sell any copies of the work on show in the gallery. This seemed rather a waste to me.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on September 10, 2011

Théâtre de la Photographie
22, Boulevard Dubouchage
Nice 06000
+33 4 92 04 99 70

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Musee d'Art et d'Histoire Palais Massena

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Attraction | "Location Over Content"

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Throughout my years of living overseas, I have often found that it has taken the visit of a friend or relative to catalyse me into visiting some of the attractions that were sitting on my doorstep. For example, the first time I visited the fabulous 798 Art District in Beijing was when my mother came to visit. The same was true in Turkey when I took my first Bosphorous cruise on another maternal visit. I guess I should thank Mummy dearest for spurring me into action so often. I walk past Musee Massena almost everyday on my way to work. Therefore, I had been able to appreciate its beautiful architecture on an almost daily basis. It is a large imposing building, crafted from light stone. It ...Read More

Throughout my years of living overseas, I have often found that it has taken the visit of a friend or relative to catalyse me into visiting some of the attractions that were sitting on my doorstep. For example, the first time I visited the fabulous 798 Art District in Beijing was when my mother came to visit. The same was true in Turkey when I took my first Bosphorous cruise on another maternal visit. I guess I should thank Mummy dearest for spurring me into action so often.

I walk past Musee Massena almost everyday on my way to work. Therefore, I had been able to appreciate its beautiful architecture on an almost daily basis. It is a large imposing building, crafted from light stone. It is built in a very classical Mediterranean style that blends an imposing with wonderfully ornate and delicate touches - this is particularly clear in the windows, doors and balconies. However, it wasn't until my mother came to visit that I actually stepped inside.

Musee Massena was originally a villa owned by the aristocratic Massena family. It was then donated to the city of Nice in the early part of the 1900s to be used as a museum for the history of the city. In truth, as a museum, it does not really fulfil its remit as it gives a very narrow view on the city, focusing mainly on the aristocratic lifestyle lived by its previous owners. However, this does not detract from some of the wonderful displays.

The ground floor has been largely preserved as it would have been in the building's heyday, when it was occupied by the Massena family. The decor is unbelievably lavish. The walls are hand-painted, the floors are marble and the deepest of dark woods, and the ceiling is supported by beautiful marble pillars. The whole place also glistens with the light of the chandeliers that reflect of the gilt frames and gold candlesticks. It is all definitively opulent.

The first and second floors are closer to what you might term a 'museum' as they are filled with art, antique furniture and curiosities from the city. None of the displays are deeply cultural or insightful, but they offer a wonderful array of art depicting Nice and some of its more illustrious inhabitants. There are scores of oil paintings of the Promenade des Anglais, all done at different stages of history, and, there are some wonderfully rich portraits of famous generals and aristocrats. I also deeply enjoyed the display on the second floor of antique posters advertising events in Nice. Most of these date from the early part of the last century and have a truly art deco feel about.

Despite the lavish nature of the decor and the richness of the art on display, the most attractive aspect of Musee Massena is its location. It is set in ample grounds just back from Promenade des Anglais. The front area is filled with lush green palm trees that quiver in the sea breeze. They also work to frame the building beautifully when you snap a photo. The garden is a lovely place to sit and relax - you can gaze out to sea or at the beautiful facade of Musee Massena.
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Member Rating 3 out of 5 on September 10, 2011

Musee d'Art et d'Histoire Palais Massena
65 rue de France
Nice, Provence
04-93-88-11-34

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Musée Marc Chagall du message biblique

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Attraction | "An Elegant Disappointment"

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Before I begin this review, I feel it is important that I acknowledge that my rather negative opinions on Musee Chagal put me in danger of sounding somewhat like a philistine. However, I feel that is a risk I must take as the trip my mother and I took to Musee Chagal one hot August afternoon left me feeling completely underwhelmed. As my review will endeavour to shown. this is not a reflection of the work of Chagal, rather it is more a comment on the museum that houses his work.The trip got off to a less than auspicious start as the museum proved extremely difficult to find. We chose to walk from Boulevard Jeam Medecin in the centre of Nice, which is just over a kilometre away. However, du...Read More

Before I begin this review, I feel it is important that I acknowledge that my rather negative opinions on Musee Chagal put me in danger of sounding somewhat like a philistine. However, I feel that is a risk I must take as the trip my mother and I took to Musee Chagal one hot August afternoon left me feeling completely underwhelmed. As my review will endeavour to shown. this is not a reflection of the work of Chagal, rather it is more a comment on the museum that houses his work.

The trip got off to a less than auspicious start as the museum proved extremely difficult to find. We chose to walk from Boulevard Jeam Medecin in the centre of Nice, which is just over a kilometre away. However, due to some less than explicit direction signs, we found ourselves negotiating a maze of side-streets before we finally found it. Upon leaving, we discovered it was much more sensible to get to Chagal along Boulevard Cimiez, along which several buses operate. Things got worse upon our arrival when we discovered entry was 9Euros.

Once through the gates, we found ourselves in the museum's gardens - imaginatively named Jardin Chagal. These were very pleasant, albeit rather small. So, we did not linger too long on our way to the main display. Sadly, the museum itself followed a similar patter to the gardens, it was rather pleasant, but was rather lacking in content.

There are three main rooms within the museum. One is occupied by the Chagal exhibit, whilst the others house works by other modern artists. The Chagal section was very nice. It housed some of his most impressive works. These included several large canvases rich in color and religious imagery as well as a wonderful stained glass mosaic. Sadly, the display was rather small. And, just as I began to get a feel for the work, we were at the exit.

The other two rooms are home to displays of modern art, much of which stands a very poor comparison to the work of Chagal. There are no particularly well-known artists displayed - it is mainly lesser known French artists - and much of the work on display is rather derivative and unoriginal. As we passed through the exit door, I could not help, but feel a little short-changed. Much of Chagal's work was truly beautiful, but there was not a huge amount of it, and much of the other work was not worth any admission fee whatsoever.

My cynicism towards Musee Chagal may also stem from the context of art on the Cote d'Azur. Nice is not a city lacking in museums and galleries. Most of which easily out-shine Musee Chagal. Both Musee Massena and MAMAC have far better displays and are both infinitely easy to find and free to visit. If you are a major Chagal fan, then the museum is worth the visit, if not save your time and your cash and head to MAMAC. Read Less

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on September 10, 2011

Musée Marc Chagall du message biblique
Avenue du Docteur-Ménard
Nice, France 06000
+33 4 93 53 87 20

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Musee D'Art Asiatique

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Attraction | "A Taste of Asia ... not a strong taste"

Exterior Photo - Musee D'Art Asiatique, Nice, France

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Before we begin this review, I should inform you that my visit to Nice's Museum of Asian Art came about completely by chance. My girlfriend and I had spent a lazy Sunday morning enjoying breakfast on coffee on balcony, before deciding to visit Parc Phoenix, the rather impressive nature centre that adjoins the museum. As it was so close, and because entrance was free, we tagged the museum onto our afternoon excursion. It turned out to be a mildly interesting, but rather unimpressive, addition to the itinerary.My overall impression of the Musee D'Art Asiatiques was that the museum itself was rather more impressive than its contents. I intend that statement in both a positive and negative way...Read More

Before we begin this review, I should inform you that my visit to Nice's Museum of Asian Art came about completely by chance. My girlfriend and I had spent a lazy Sunday morning enjoying breakfast on coffee on balcony, before deciding to visit Parc Phoenix, the rather impressive nature centre that adjoins the museum. As it was so close, and because entrance was free, we tagged the museum onto our afternoon excursion. It turned out to be a mildly interesting, but rather unimpressive, addition to the itinerary.

My overall impression of the Musee D'Art Asiatiques was that the museum itself was rather more impressive than its contents. I intend that statement in both a positive and negative way. On the positive side, the architecture of the museum is rather impressive. On the negative side, the exhibits are less than spectacular and the whole museum seems to lack a true identity.

The museum is made up of a large circular building with an additional curved annex. It is all made in white stone and sits just a few centimetres above a placid lake. When viewed from Parc Phoenix, it looks unbelievably peaceful. Inside, the impression of serenity continues. Everything is white and many of the large windows are covered by simple white blinds to guard from glare. The whole museum centres around a large white spiral staircase that links the three levels and gives a nod towards the Guggenheim in New York.

The architecture and design of the building really impressed me. Sadly, the exhibits did not. The first major disappointment was the amount of art on show. The main floor was divided geographically into four sections - China, Japan, India and Southeast Asian. Unfortunately there were less than seven pieces in each of these displays, making the whole place feel rather empty. There were one or two very nice pieces, such as a Chinese Imperial robe from the Qing dynasty and a Japanese Samourai suit. However, these were not really enough to leave me feeling satisfied.

My second major disappointment was the museum's overall identity. I do not wish to sound pretentious here, but, having lived in several Asian countries, I feel I have a strong feel for the art, the history and the culture. And, the feel in Nice was a long way away. For example, much of the art on show had strong Buddhist routes - the top floor was dedicated to this. In its natural setting, Buddhist art is full of colour and of life. It makes the viewer feel warm. I could not see. How the overtly white and serene museum could do this justice.

I know this review sounds rather critical, but I should not be too negative about Musee D'Art Asiatiques. First, it doesn't contain some interesting pieces that are certainly worth seeing. And, second, entrance is free.
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Member Rating 3 out of 5 on September 10, 2011

Musee D'Art Asiatique
405, promenade des Anglais - Arénas
Nice, France 06200
+33(0)4 92 29 37 00

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