Summer in Nice

Musee Matisse de Nice

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Attraction | "Quite a Bit Missing"

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I could never argue that I have been a lifelong fan of Henri Matisse. However, thanks to a dog-eared print of one of his most famous works that room-mate of mine had in college, I have always had something of a soft spot for his work. Therefore, I figured a trip to the Musee Matisse in the northeast of Nice would be a great idea. Sadly, my girlfriend and I found ourselves rather disappointed.Our disappointment should not in any way be interpreted as a slight on the work of Henri Matisse (not that my opinion holds that much sway in the art world anyway). It should be seen more as a criticism of the rather threadbare nature of the collection on show. I headed there hoping to see some of his ...Read More

I could never argue that I have been a lifelong fan of Henri Matisse. However, thanks to a dog-eared print of one of his most famous works that room-mate of mine had in college, I have always had something of a soft spot for his work. Therefore, I figured a trip to the Musee Matisse in the northeast of Nice would be a great idea. Sadly, my girlfriend and I found ourselves rather disappointed.

Our disappointment should not in any way be interpreted as a slight on the work of Henri Matisse (not that my opinion holds that much sway in the art world anyway). It should be seen more as a criticism of the rather threadbare nature of the collection on show. I headed there hoping to see some of his more famous works. Sadly, the majority of these are not housed in Nice. Instead, they are dotted around the globe, with many in New York or the Hermitage in St Petersburg. I was most keen to see his Blue Nudes, but these are housed in the Pompidou Center in Paris.

Rather than his major works, the Matisse Museum is filled more with skecthes, notes and pieces of preparation. In facte, there is a whole floor dedicated to simple pencil outlines that became other works. In themselves, these are interesting enough. However, in the context of the whole museum they simply serve to highlight what it cannot provide.

The top floor of the museum houses full works – the majority of them less than significant in the context of Matisse's career. There are three or four works in oil that catch the eye as well as the art work for a chapel that Matidde designed to be built in the Cote d'Azur. The final piece of interest is the reconstruction of a mural Matisse created that includes figures similar to his Blue Nude. And, whilst it might not be the real thing, it is certainly interesting.

The saving grace of the Musee Matisse is that it is free to enter. It also boasts a fantastic gift shop which features hundreds of books, prints, post-cards and posters concerning the art that is not housed in the museum … there is some sort of irony there I believe. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on October 30, 2011

Musee Matisse de Nice
164, Avenue Des Arènes De Cimiez
Cimiez, France 06000
+33 4 93 81 08 08

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Bastille Day on the Train

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It was July 13th, which for those who are unfamiliar with their French history, is the day before the national Bastille Day celebrations. The 14th is a major national holiday, during which many shops and most offices are closed, allowing French workers to take the day off. Because of this the evening of the 13th is often reserved for celebrations, parties and the like. In the Cote D'Azur in 2011, the celebrations were to take place in two separate stages. On the day itself, there would be a huge fireworks display on the Promenade Des Anglais, and, on the 13th, there would be something similar – albeit on a smaller scale – in the town of Cagnes Sur Mer just a few kilometres along the coats....Read More

It was July 13th, which for those who are unfamiliar with their French history, is the day before the national Bastille Day celebrations. The 14th is a major national holiday, during which many shops and most offices are closed, allowing French workers to take the day off. Because of this the evening of the 13th is often reserved for celebrations, parties and the like. In the Cote D'Azur in 2011, the celebrations were to take place in two separate stages. On the day itself, there would be a huge fireworks display on the Promenade Des Anglais, and, on the 13th, there would be something similar – albeit on a smaller scale – in the town of Cagnes Sur Mer just a few kilometres along the coats.

As we were both off work the next day, and as it was my first Bastille Day in France, my girlfriend and I decided to sample both celebrations. This mean that on the evening of the 13th, after I finished work, we needed to make our way to Cagnes. I had already passed through Cagnes several times on my way to Grasse (a town in the foothills of the Alps). So, I knew that we could reach Cagnes on the 500/200 buses. Both operated between Nice, Cagnes and beyond – the 200 goes to Cannes and the 500 to Grasse. They are both very reasonably priced with the journey costing just one Euro. However, the downside to the bus is the time it takes. The journey to Cagnes should take around 40 minutes, but often takes longer because of traffic. An extremely prescient concern on the 13th as there would be a huge amount of holiday traffic. Therefore, my girlfriend suggested that we take the train.

There are three stations in Nice. St Agustine in the west is close to the airport and the western districts of the city, such as Fabron. Riquier is in the east of the city and is closer to the port area. However, by far the biggest and most accessible is Nice Ville, which is situated in the centre of town close to Avenue Jean Medecin.

Trains run in the direction of Cagnes Sur Mer – continuing on towards Grasse and Cannes – every twenty minutes or so during the day and every 30 minutes during the evening. The last one departs at just after nine o'clock. Curiously, trains coming in the other direction operate much longer into the night, with the last one arriving in Nice after 1a.m. The fare is a very reasonable 2.70 in one direction. There are also several types of reductions such as those for elderly people and for students – these tickets usually cost 2.10 Euros. Buying tickets is a relatively simple process. However, it can at first be a little intimidating. There are very few actual ticket desks. Instead, there are scores of machines that accept coins or credit cards (they are safe and secure). The screen is clear and easy to use – there is also an English option – so you become familiar with it, it really is very simple.

We took the 9 o'clock train. As it was the eve of a national holiday it was very busy. Although, I am told that the line is very popular and trains are often crowded at peak times with commuters heading into and out of Nice. Thankfully, though, we were able to find seats and the journey was very comfortable. The trains are modern double-decker affairs with plenty of seating and separate 'quiet' sections for those who do not wish to be disturbed my the noise from mobile phones. The journey to Cagnes took just over 20minutes.

After enjoying a nice meal and watching a rather underwhelming firework display on the Cagnes Promenade, we headed back to the station to catch the 11.36 train. The station was completely closed. So, we again opted for ticket machines to buy tickets. The whole place was deserted, which made me feel rather nervous as I began to ponder if the timetable was 100% accurate – perhaps the trains stopped around 9 o'clock in both directions? However, to my relief the train arrived bang on time at 11.36 and was almost deserted. Read Less

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A Foot Massage

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Between 2006 and 2010, I lived in Tianjin in northern China (I have written several journals about my time there on this very sight). For the most part, I absolutely loved my time there. However, during my final six months, work concerns began to make things a little more stressful than I would have liked. So, I often found myself in search of an escape, somewhere to help me relax and to allow the stresses of the world to dissipate. The closest I came was the gym and spa at the Nikko hotel in the centre of the city.There were many reasons that I loved spending a lazy afternoon at the Nikko. The gym was excellent, the pool was very nice and the sauna and steam room were invigorating. Howeve...Read More

Between 2006 and 2010, I lived in Tianjin in northern China (I have written several journals about my time there on this very sight). For the most part, I absolutely loved my time there. However, during my final six months, work concerns began to make things a little more stressful than I would have liked. So, I often found myself in search of an escape, somewhere to help me relax and to allow the stresses of the world to dissipate. The closest I came was the gym and spa at the Nikko hotel in the centre of the city.

There were many reasons that I loved spending a lazy afternoon at the Nikko. The gym was excellent, the pool was very nice and the sauna and steam room were invigorating. However, no trip to the Nikko would be complete without a stroll in their massage pool. This was a small circular pool that was lined with soft round stones. These stones were there to provide a type of foot massage - without the need to actually have your feet rubbed. I loved them. And, sadly, no matter how much I tried, after I left Tianjin I was unable to find anything similar.

After living in both Turkey and Oman for six months and finding nothing to compare to the Nikko, I was resigned to the fact that the only way I could make my feet better was to go for an actual foot massage. I was not keen on this idea for a couple of reasons: (1) I always get very self-conscious when other people touch me, which makes massages bizarrely stressful, and (2) On the French Riviera, foot massages are expensive treats. All looked lost until the arrival of summer and my first trip to the beach.

The majority of beaches on the Cote d’Azur are not covered by beautiful golden sands. Rather, they are made up of small grey rocks. For example, both Nice and Cagnes sur Mer are totally made up of rocks. Most people see this as something of a disadvantage as they are less comfortable for sun bathing. In fact, many beach clubs have sprung up in Nice that offer elevated sun loungers and wooden decking to minimise the effect of the rocks. In truth, the rocks are a little uncomfortable. However, they have one major advantage, they offer great foot massages.

This realisation struck me for the first time as I made my way out of the water and back to my towel after swimming in the Mediterranean for the first time. For my first few tentative steps, I tried to pick my way through the rocks. However, I soon began to realise that those very rocks were kneading the stress out of my feet like no masseuse ever could.
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Parc Phoenix

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Attraction | "Rising from Nice"

The Stone Bridge Photo - Parc Phoenix, Nice, France

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There are two experiences in my life through which I have come in extremely close contact to a wondrous aspect of nature. The first came just outside the Chinese city of Chengdu, where I was able to visit China's Panda Research station and see Panda's in their (almost) natural habitat. The second was just outside the coastal city of Sur in OmanN where I was able to see giant sea turtles laying their eggs. It is toss-up as to which if these I enjoyed the most. Parc Phoenix - the nature park close to Nice's International Airport - obviously could not compete with either of those. However, it was tremendously interesting and made me feel just a little bit closer to nature.There are so many fantastic sigh...Read More

There are two experiences in my life through which I have come in extremely close contact to a wondrous aspect of nature. The first came just outside the Chinese city of Chengdu, where I was able to visit China's Panda Research station and see Panda's in their (almost) natural habitat. The second was just outside the coastal city of Sur in OmanN where I was able to see giant sea turtles laying their eggs. It is toss-up as to which if these I enjoyed the most. Parc Phoenix - the nature park close to Nice's International Airport - obviously could not compete with either of those. However, it was tremendously interesting and made me feel just a little bit closer to nature.There are so many fantastic sights at Parc Phoenix that, if I included all of them, it would turn this article into little more than a rather long list of exotic plants and animals. So, I will pick out a few of my favorites and describe them at a little more length.

The first thing to grab me was the waterfall bridge, which is not strictly a bridge and not really a waterfall in the way might think of Niagara or Victoria Falls, but is very pleasant. It is a collection of large stones that sit in the path of a small stream, which empties into the lake at the centre of the park. There are traditional bridges that cross the stream, but as it opens out towards the lake, there are a line of firmly secured over which you can skip. It is rather pleasant to stand on one of these and look down at the water flowing and bubbling away just a few centimetres below.

The second part of the park was the Iguana House. In the center of Parc Phoenix is a large circular botanical garden Attached to this are a series of smaller rooms - greenhouses may actually be a more accurate word - containing tropical animals. The best of these is the Iguana House, where the reptiles are free to roam at will. The problem with the iguanas enjoying their freedom is that they can sometimes be difficult to spot. However, I was fortunate enough to get a superb view of one of them on a low branch.

After the Iguana House, we visited the aquarium, which was nothing special. However, outside the exit, was the turtle enclosure. This was little more than a small pen full of sand and straw. It was occupied by three medium-sized turtles who were ambling around - rather slowly of course - for all to see. I found this rather captivating. The turtles had a great feel of dignity and experience. I could not help spending a few minutes simply staring at them intently.

The rest of the Botanical Garden was also very impressive. There were scores of large, lush palm trees that stretched towards the glass ceiling. There was also a small rather dry hill that had been set aside for cacti. It was a fascinating sight. It felt as though we had wandered from the South of France to the Mojave desert or somewhere in deepest Arizona. The most compelling part of it all was the texture of each plant, which looked so intense. It gave the gardens a very tactile edge.

I deeply enjoyed my visit to Parc Phoenix. The many various aspects of nature were wonderfully presented. I also deeply enjoyed the rather paradoxical idea of locating such a park next to one of the busiest airports in France. Entry to Parc Phoenix is just 2Euro.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on August 10, 2011

Parc Phoenix
405, Promenade des Anglais
Nice, France 06000
+33 4 93 18 03 33

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Le Chateau

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Attraction | "Not a Chateau in Sight"

View from the Cahtueau Photo - Le Chateau, Nice, France

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If ever anyone were to offer an award for the least aptly named tourist attraction in Europe, Le Chateau in Nice would be amongst the front-runners for the prize. With such a moniker, you might expect to find a giant country house or even a medieval castle. However, these are conspicuous by their notable absence. Le Chateau is nothing more than a garden sitting atop the headland that juts out from the port of Nice. But, regardless of the rather less than accurate labelling, castle or no castle, Le Chateau is actually one of the most visited attractions in Nice. And, it is easy to see why.When my girlfriend explained to me that we were going to visit a place called Le Chateau, but that ther...Read More

If ever anyone were to offer an award for the least aptly named tourist attraction in Europe, Le Chateau in Nice would be amongst the front-runners for the prize. With such a moniker, you might expect to find a giant country house or even a medieval castle. However, these are conspicuous by their notable absence. Le Chateau is nothing more than a garden sitting atop the headland that juts out from the port of Nice. But, regardless of the rather less than accurate labelling, castle or no castle, Le Chateau is actually one of the most visited attractions in Nice. And, it is easy to see why.

When my girlfriend explained to me that we were going to visit a place called Le Chateau, but that there was no actual Chateau involved, I was a little sceptical. In fact, I must own-up to dragging my heels a little on the visit:

"You want to go where? The chateau with no chateau there? How about we leave that one until next week?"

However, after some pretty persistent nagging, she finally convinced me to make the trip.

It only took a few minutes of our visit to convince me that I had acted like a prize add with my undue scepticism as Le Chateau proved to be wonderful. It provided some of the most spectacular views in Nice. To get to the park, we took the stairs that led from Promenade des Anglais. These are relatively steep and take ten minutes or so to climb. As it was quite hot, this proved a little uncomfortable. However, the discomfort was certainly worthwhile as the staircase to the top is punctuated by several viewing platforms. These platforms look out across the Bay of Nice taking in the Promenade and much of the city. The panorama is chock full of palm trees and dazzlingly blue water, which serves as a great reward for the exertions of the climb.

Once you arrive at the top, the park itself is a little underwhelming. There is space for the children to play, a few shady nooks for picnics and s small statue. Nothing to write home about really. Thankfully, there is also another superb view. Walking across to the other side of the headland, you can look out across the port of Nice. Again, it is an impressive sight. There are countless yachts glistening in the sun as well as a wonderful array of older buildings - many housing quaint bistros - edging the water.

There is no charge for admission to Le Chateau, which makes it one of the best value attractions in Nice. There is an elevator that costs 2Euros, but that would be a rather frivolous expenditure as it would stop you from enjoying the viewing platforms on the climb to the top.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 20, 2011

Le Chateau
Promenade Des Anglais
Nice, France

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