Caution - Belgium Will Sneak-up On You - Ghent - IgoUgo Ghent Journal

The City Is Old, but the Night Is Young...

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Silhouette of St. Nicholas Church Photo - Ghent, Belgium

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Ghent is another Belgian city that has magnificent lighting that makes the Old City come alive at night. Young people line the Graslei and the Korenlei and St. Micheal's Bridge becomes a very busy thoroughfare. The Friday Market Square is lined with restaurants and pubs, all of which are very crowded indeed. Tourists who are staying overnight in Ghent mix with locals at the restaurants and students and hostelers meet in the pubs and along the river and canals. While a few of the outside areas are brightly lit, most of the lighting inspires romance (for any age). Nights and evenings in Ghent are times to relax. Locals and tourists alike amble slowly through the streets and along the river ...Read More

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Overview of Belgium In General

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I am beginning all of my Belgium Journals with this "Overview." I think that Belgium and the other "Low" countries qualify for general statements because "the total country includes the sum of its' parts," and there are so many similarities. In this case the "sum" is Flanders.Belgium may be a small country, but it is a very wealthy economic powerhouse that is all to often neglected by the tourism merchants. About the size of Maryland in the US, the country has two distinct sections: Flanders in the North and Wallonia in the South. Flanders is Flemish-speaking (very close to Dutch) while the language of Wallonia is French. Much of Belgium is also quite fluent in English as well as German ...Read More

I am beginning all of my Belgium Journals with this "Overview." I think that Belgium and the other "Low" countries qualify for general statements because "the total country includes the sum of its' parts," and there are so many similarities. In this case the "sum" is Flanders.

Belgium may be a small country, but it is a very wealthy economic powerhouse that is all to often neglected by the tourism merchants. About the size of Maryland in the US, the country has two distinct sections: Flanders in the North and Wallonia in the South. Flanders is Flemish-speaking (very close to Dutch) while the language of Wallonia is French. Much of Belgium is also quite fluent in English as well as German and French, depending on the region. As part of the "Low Countries," (The Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg and the Northwest of France), much of the Flanders part of Belgium is just above sea level. The Wallonia area of Belgium is hilly in spots and mountainous in others, with some flat areas as well. The name "Netherlands" means "Low Countries by the Sea." Five different languages plus English are spoken.

I traveled to Belgium twice for a few days each during the early 60's, but my interests then were largely based on Belgian beer (some of the best in the world), and Belgian girls (even better than the beer). My interests have matured; I no longer drink alcohol and unfortunately, the girls look at me as a grandfather figure, which does seem a bit unfair.

I was last in Belgium in April, 2011. Prior to that I visited the country in 2005. In the first case, I made the mistake of putting Belgium at the end of a trip to East Europe. I knew that I would have little time, but I did it anyway. In the second case, my memory had failed me and I consequently had allocated only four days for this small country. That's what some friends and some guide books suggested was adequate time. In those four days I visited, Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, and Brussels. My next trip there, I will spend at least 2-3 days in each of those cities, as well as some time in French-speaking Wallonia, especially Liege, and the Ardennes. I figure that Belgium as a whole is worth a good two weeks. Of course I said that after my trip in 2005. I still consider Belgium to be a country to savor. It has the sights, the foods, the beer and wine, the fun, and the romance of counties many times it's size. It is special.

Belgium is a prime example of a country which seems to be overlooked by tours and guide books, and while I can somewhat understand the omission, I have a difficult time justifying it. The Netherlands is much more than Amsterdam, and Belgium, like the Netherlands and Luxembourg, falls victim to the "great" cities of Europe. The two main tourist cities in Belgium, Brussels (headquarters of the European Union) and Bruges have become overrun with tourists while the rest of the country receives a much smaller portion of the tourist dollar. Belgian cities do not have the jaw-dropping sights of a Paris, London, or Rome, but they provide a much more comfortable and welcoming atmosphere than any of the above-mentioned metropolises. Even the European capital of Brussels is much slower-paced than many of the major cities of Europe.

As with my other journals, while I may try to be objective, it's pretty much a lost cause. I give a place a rating, usually 5 stars, because I don't look for things that are wrong. I do look for things that are "right" and generally say so. My budget is very limited so the closest I get to a famous hotel would be a photograph. I also make most of my own meals (I am a good cook, but I don't like to take time away from my wanderings (I eat a lot of ham sandwiches). What I want most is to share my experiences and my mistakes in hopes that readers will be spared some possibly embarrassing moments.

I will be doing Journals on each of the four cities. I still have all of my pretty extensive notes from 2005 and I just visited Bruges and Ghent this spring (2011). The cities are all very photogenic so expect a lot of photographs. As usual, I have some strong opinions. I will start with Bruges.

Quick Tips:

Like much of Europe, the Euro is the currency of Belgium. It is always a good idea to bring some Euros with you when you enter any of the countries on the Euro standard (50-100€). After that, use an ATM card. Traveler's checks may be good in an emergency (I carry two 50's and two 100's that I have had since the early 90's and have lost my a-- on), but the ATM card gives the best rate of exchange and you will find them everywhere. WARNING: If you see exposed wires running from the ATM to someplace else, it's a smart idea to avoid that machine. While improbable, the machine may have been hacked and the wires may lead to an identity thief. They are safe if they are built into a wall. Also, avoid currency exchanges! They may say, "No commission," but rates are low and there are service charges that will amount to close to 20% of your currency or traveler's check.

Like many European cities, the old baroque or medieval parts of the Belgian cities are wonderful for wandering. The small streets and alleys often lead to scenes of great beauty and wonderful shops which are frequently MUCH less expensive than those in the main shopping areas. I found this to be true especially in Ghent and Antwerp. This is also true of restaurants.

As mentioned, like the Netherlands, many Belgians are fluent in English. This is especially true in Flanders where travelers will find English menus and English-speaking servers, clerks, bank personnel, travel specialists, and cashiers. The Tourist Information (TI or just "i") are great sources of information in English as are local travel agents who can frequently offer special discounts on different things in the area.

Small towns in Europe can be wonderfully picturesque. They are different than towns in the US because the farmers live in the town, and not on the farms. In agrarian Europe, the town was protection and the farm population lived inside the town walls. That is why one sees so few farm houses on the land. Cattle, goats, and sheep were were "put out to pasture" every day which meant that they were moved or driven back and forth to the town on a daily basis. The towns were the entire community 400 years ago and they still are. They also have train stations, so they are very accessible.

Best Way To Get Around:

Belgium has a great rail system. It also has a wonderful benefit for senior citizens. For men over 65 and women over 62 years of age, a senior can travel anywhere in the country and return in one day for only €5.20. These tickets have some limitations (see http://www.b-rail.be for more details). The website will also give more details on other money saving methods of travel for all ages.

The cities all have very efficient tram, bus, and metro systems and it is possible to combine different rail tickets with local transportation tickets, a further savings.

Belgium, as part of the "Low Countries," is quite flat in the Flanders area. Bicycles, therefore, are very popular and there are free bikes and rental bikes available.

I generally prefer not to rent a car, but in the area of the Ardennes and Waloonia, it might be a good idea. There are places in the mountains to stop and enjoy the scenery which one can't do on a train or bus. One of the reasons that I don't like tour bus travel is that while the guides point out all the wonderfully scenic places and lovely towns, the buses don't stop to let the passengers enjoy the environment. To me, the tour bus is my last option.

Lastly, there is walking which is the best transportation of all. Whether in cities, towns, or rural areas, it is by far the best way to enjoy just about anyplace.

European cities are alive and wonderful. Where our cities in the US have lost to "urban sprawl," the cities of Europe have maintained and indeed continue to increase in vibrancy and popularity. But the small, picturesque towns, along with the warmth of their people will always paint a better picture of a country, and the truth of that statement absolutely applies to Belgium.

Next stop - Ghent

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It all started with this dumb Journal...

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I love Ghent! This Spring, 2011, I again found it to be a wonderful city, friendly and helpful, and even better than I remembered. I wish I could live there for a couple of years. I had a full and terrific day and evening, and a beautiful morning; met some super folks, and I wanted to tell people about it. First, though, I needed to do a little fact checking and I'm still looking.I try not to bore readers with a travelogue that is nothing more than a regurgitation of information available online and in book stores. As a photographer I am visually oriented so it is natural for me to take and to use a lot of photographs. I become so much more interested in a place that I ...Read More

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So, What's To See In Ghent?

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Korenlei and Graslei Photo - Ghent, Belgium

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So what's to see in Ghent? So what's not to see in Ghent? Ghent is a perfect city to illustrate what I mean when I travel. First though, what is there to see in Ghent? At the top of the list is St-Baafskathedraal (St Bavos Cathedral); then St-Nicklaaskerk; St. Nicholas Church; next is the Stadhuis (Town Hall) in the Groentenmarkt (Main Square) and, of course, Gravensteen (the Castle of Counts, and you don't have to climb to get there), then the Belfort,(the belfry - with a lift and a great view). If you have only one day for Ghent, those would be my list for the daytime. Then would follow the Klein Begijnhof, and finally, the Graslei and ...Read More

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Partly Personal - Stories and Experiences

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In 2011, I finally returned to Ghent. I found exactly the same scene this year as I did six years ago, and it is that scene that I will try to describe in words and photographs (lots of both). The city held the same vibrancy, vitality, and, most importantly, the same emotional rejuvenation for me. First, some opinions and personal experiences... It was close to the end of my month-long trip which took me from Bruges to Budapest and from Warsaw to Vienna. I had a day and a night in Ghent and then it was off to Berlin for three days, and then home. It was an ambitious itinerary and proved to be much more challenging than I expected, but it has also refocused me. Quite simply, I nee...Read More

In 2011, I finally returned to Ghent. I found exactly the same scene this year as I did six years ago, and it is that scene that I will try to describe in words and photographs (lots of both). The city held the same vibrancy, vitality, and, most importantly, the same emotional rejuvenation for me. First, some opinions and personal experiences...

It was close to the end of my month-long trip which took me from Bruges to Budapest and from Warsaw to Vienna. I had a day and a night in Ghent and then it was off to Berlin for three days, and then home. It was an ambitious itinerary and proved to be much more challenging than I expected, but it has also refocused me. Quite simply, I need to slow down, relearn "packing light" in this day of rechargeable everything electronic, and not be so ambitious in my travel plans. It's not just my age and physical condition, but rather, my entire approach. I need to understand again that there may be places that I don't get to. Each of us has a finite amount of time on this earth and while we shouldn't waste that time, we shouldn't rush along and miss the things that are truly important. For example, according to my formula (see Travel Experientially), Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp should each be allotted three to four days and Brussels at least four days. (Because the cities are so close together, and travel time is negligible, I include travel time in my figures.)

Besides not allocating enough time for the places I went, I seemed to be in a hurry at every destination, and that goes against all of my normal habits. I don't know why it worked out the way that it did, but I felt as though I was just running out of gas. Part of the problem was over-planing and the other problem was trying to stick to the plan, knowing that it was the wrong approach. It all changed in Ghent. I don't know exactly why, but here's what happened.

After checking into the HI De Draecke Ghent hostel, I resisted the temptation to take a nap and decided to visit Gravensteen (Castle of Counts) which is only a couple of blocks away. The castle was closed for the afternoon because of renovations being made. So I walked down the Leie River on the Korenlei side to a good view of the Graslei, and the St. Michael's Bridge. I stopped to take a couple (I use the term loosely) of photographs, stopped at St. Nicholas Church - more photographs - and walked down to the Belfry. It was while I was admiring that 13th century structure, I overheard a woman speaking North American English and complaining about all of the overhead wires that supply electricity to the trams that run on rails all over the city. "This is terrible," she said. "Just look at all those wires that ruin the pictures. I wish I knew what to call this, this crap." "Environmental pollution," I suggested." "That's it, that IS it," she said emphatically, and dug into her purse for a pen and paper to write down the term. "I don't know where you're from," I said, "But at least these people can breathe the air in their cities." She gave me a mean look and walked away. A young couple had witnessed the exchange and gave me the "thumbs up" sign. The term "environmental pollution" is not original. I picked it up from an American tourist who said the same thing in Graz, Austria. I gave her the same answer with the same result.

That evening, at dusk, I was taking pictures of the young people (students) sitting along the "Graslei" (an area along the Leie River in front of Medieval guild houses where people sit and chat and drink beer and wine) when two young men came up to me and asked where I was from. I told them and it started what was eventually a two hour conversation about everything American - the good and the bad - politics in both countries and the EU (European Union). We eventually had about fifteen people in the group and it was wonderful. They picked my brain and I did the same of theirs. I found them to be untrusting of government - all governments. They were quite angry about the American Republican Party because they like President Obama. They noted that they (Belgium) were a small country in comparison to the US. Only one of the women had been to our country and described the US and "very huge." I said that Belgium is the size in area of our state of Maryland, which gave them some idea of the size of the US, but I could see that they still didn't grasp the size. I then told them that if I got in my car from where I live, I could drive for twenty, thirty and forty hours in different directions and still be in the US. That got their attention. I told them that I could drive those same hours and never leave English, which is part of the problem with Americans speaking a foreign language. Where would the average American go to practice Flemish?

After the first hour, a couple of the young men went out and got some beer and wine and the bottles were passed from person to person. I declined and explained that half a century ago I tried to drink Europe dry and it had an adverse effect on my life, so now I don't drink. One of the guys left and got me a Coke Zero. From then on it was all fun. We told some semi-off-color jokes back and forth and did a lot of laughing. They invited me to their homes the next time I was in Belgium and I reciprocated with an invitation to my home in the US, wherever it is at the time. I told them to make it soon though, or they might see me in an old age home. I gave one of the guys my email address and he emailed me the addresses of the Belgians folks. I felt great, and I reminded myself that that experience is what travel is all about. I can hardly wait to go back. It will be soon.

I didn't get all of the photographs I wanted, but I was richly rewarded in other ways. On my next visit I will make time to do both. Lesson learned.

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Here's To Ghent

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"Let us all raise our glasses and let's drink a toast to Ghent and her people that I like the most." It's a corny self-penned rhyme, but within the environs of this city one finds universities, marvelous cathedrals, wonderful art and museums, a couple of rivers and canals, old buildings, a beautiful Belfry, stunning roof lines, enticing small streets and alleys, restaurants of every cuisine, and even a castle that you don't have to climb a mountain to reach. In Ghent, life is good, especially for us travelers.First, for any travelers going to Belgium, Do Not Miss Ghent!!! Resist the temptation to skip the city or spend minimal time there (like I have done - twice). The sm...Read More

"Let us all raise our glasses and let's drink a toast to Ghent and her people that I like the most." It's a corny self-penned rhyme, but within the environs of this city one finds universities, marvelous cathedrals, wonderful art and museums, a couple of rivers and canals, old buildings, a beautiful Belfry, stunning roof lines, enticing small streets and alleys, restaurants of every cuisine, and even a castle that you don't have to climb a mountain to reach. In Ghent, life is good, especially for us travelers.

First, for any travelers going to Belgium, Do Not Miss Ghent!!! Resist the temptation to skip the city or spend minimal time there (like I have done - twice). The smallest of the four major cities of Flanders, it is small only in population. The sights of Medieval Ghent are many and beautiful and because the city survived pretty much unscathed from damage in WW II, the buildings that look like 14th century buildings really are. But what also sets Ghent apart is that it is Belgium's "University" town. There are as many students in the central city as there are residents (60,000 of each). Ghent, while it is known as the "City of Flowers," and the "City of Spires" is also the Belgian capital of education, and more importantly, it is also the absolute capitol of fun for traveling students of all nationalities. English is the universal language of the world's student population, and on any given sunny day the canal sides or riversides (Graslei and Korenlei) are lined with young people speaking many languages far into the night. The students infuse a palpable youthful excitement into all parts of the city.

Getting There and Staying there

Ghent is central to the other three major cities of Flanders (Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp being the other three). Train time to the other three varies from 35 minutes to 55 minutes, which allows one to stay in Ghent and travel by train to the other cities, eliminating moves which take time (packing and unpacking, checking out and checking in, travel time, and unpacking again) and energy. Also, because I am a "senior," I prefer this system because for us "seniors," the train ticket is €5.20 return, but for others on a tight budget, it might be less expensive to move. It is certainly more work.

I prefer the Hosteling International HI De Draecke Ghent hostel in Ghent. For me, it's a super place. If you are not a member of Hosteling International (HI), there is an additional charge of €3.00 per night that is charged to non-members. It is not the cheapest place to stay, but its location two blocks from the Castle of Counts and just a few more to the Graslei and St. Michael's Bridge. The bunks are well made (actually quite comfortable, but you'll have to make and then strip your own bed) and there is excellent security. For HI members, it is about $30 per night (considering the current weakness of the dollar). It is more than convenient, and for me, worth the few extra euros. So much for the "business" part of the city.

Observations

This is the important part. Ghent is less romantic than Bruges and less spectacular than Brussels, but the city is no less remarkable and is far less touristed. Sint-Bavoskathedral can rank with any of the other major churches and cathedrals in Belgium, and there are beautiful scenes all over the city. Like Bruges, I have found the tourists in Ghent to be very well-behaved, even reverent in the churches, and like Bruges, very much appreciated by the local population. Ghent is a very friendly city to everyone - tourists and each other equally. To illustrate, a tourist was using a flash in one of the museums, and was asked very politely to discontinue the use of the flash. The tourist got angry, but the caretaker continued to explain why the use of flash is disallowed and what the ultraviolet light does to color pigments. The tourist stomped out, but surprisingly to me, was back in a very few minutes to apologize to the caretaker. My respect for both of them grew proportionately.

To sum up, Ghent is as great a destination as Bruges or Brussels, and you won't face the crowds of tourists. As a final note, a man in a pub told me the the best place in Belgium to drink beer is in Ghent. I'm not surprised. So, a toast to Ghent!

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Caution - Belgium Will Sneak-up On You - Ghent

The City Is Old, but the Night Is Young...

Overview of Belgium In General

It all started with this dumb Journal...

So, What's To See In Ghent?

Partly Personal - Stories and Experiences

Here's To Ghent

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