Southern Peloponnese

Maniot Towers (Mani Towers)

Attraction | "Mani Towers, Vathia"

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The Maniot settlement of Vathia stands in proud isolation looking down at the sea, at the very Southern tip of the Mani, in the Greek Peloponnese. It’s a well kept Greek secret as unless one arrived by donkey it was almost inaccessible until a road was built in the 1970’s. Even if it had been easy to get to most people were afraid to enter the area with its reputation within Greece as an inhospitable land, home to the blood thirsty Maniots. The reputation of the fierce, strong and independent descendants of martial Spartans left the area one of the least explored in Greece. The Maniots are proud to say that despite four centuries of Turkish occupation they remained independent of Turkish r...Read More

The Maniot settlement of Vathia stands in proud isolation looking down at the sea, at the very Southern tip of the Mani, in the Greek Peloponnese. It’s a well kept Greek secret as unless one arrived by donkey it was almost inaccessible until a road was built in the 1970’s. Even if it had been easy to get to most people were afraid to enter the area with its reputation within Greece as an inhospitable land, home to the blood thirsty Maniots.

The reputation of the fierce, strong and independent descendants of martial Spartans left the area one of the least explored in Greece. The Maniots are proud to say that despite four centuries of Turkish occupation they remained independent of Turkish rule.

The area approaching Vathia is barren, bleak and rugged, dropping sharply to the sea on one side; cowered by Mount Tayetes on the other. It is hard to believe it is only an hour south from the lushness and greenery of the rest of the Peloponnese.

The Mani was once renowned for violence and bloodshed, and fortified villages were built above the sea to protect the inhabitants from pirate attacks. Dwellings were built in towers which piled one room on top of another, with trapdoors providing access upwards via ladders. The tallest towers signified the homes of those with the greatest wealth.

Many towers stand today but it is in Vathia where the towers uniquely stand as they once were, a whole village standing as testament to the past. The village is almost deserted now but the crumbling towers still stand, not all of them ruins. Wild figs grow, overlooked by the narrow openings within the tower walls which were handily placed for defensive weapons.

This was a village of feuds and vendettas which lasted for decades at a time, between enemies and neighbors. It could be that the feuding started over a personal thing but it was more likely to be caused by disagreement over a patch of scrubby, arid land needed for food cultivation. The Maniots were not fishermen, but pirates and robbers: understandable when the complete barrenness of the land is seen. Closed off from the outside world it is hard to imagine how they could survive.

A traditional sign in Vathia was for the head of ones enemy to be nailed to the tower wall of the killer, be it a neighbors head or a thwarted pirate. Unfortunately, if you visit the area today, the welcoming sign of a severed head will no longer be there to greet you.

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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 7, 2011

Maniot Towers (Mani Towers)
Mani region, central peninsula
Vathia, Greece 22201

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Selinitsa Fishing Village

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Fishing harbour, Selinitsa Photo - Agios Nikolaos, Greece

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The tiny fishing village of Selinitsa in the Southern Peloponnese is perfect for those who want nothing more from their vacation base than to relax in the genuine ambiance of a truly Greek village, where time has almost stood still, and traditional habits are still observed. Fishing boats head out to sea each day and the catch can be enjoyed in the local tavernas, or purchased from the early morning fish market at the beautiful harbour.Selinitsa is actually the old name for Agios Nikolaos, but as this translates to Saint Nikolaos then this village name can be found all over Greece and her islands. The best way to identify this particular village is to add the name of its neighbouring villa...Read More

The tiny fishing village of Selinitsa in the Southern Peloponnese is perfect for those who want nothing more from their vacation base than to relax in the genuine ambiance of a truly Greek village, where time has almost stood still, and traditional habits are still observed. Fishing boats head out to sea each day and the catch can be enjoyed in the local tavernas, or purchased from the early morning fish market at the beautiful harbour.

Selinitsa is actually the old name for Agios Nikolaos, but as this translates to Saint Nikolaos then this village name can be found all over Greece and her islands. The best way to identify this particular village is to add the name of its neighbouring village, Stoupa, to any searches. It is not unknown to find the odd tourist who thought they were going to spend their last minute vacation in Corfu, to be delivered to the mainland village of Agios Nikolaos instead, wondering where all the exciting night life is.

Selinitisa had German soldiers stationed there during World War 11, and was an anti-communist village in the days of the Greek civil war. Until the road was built in the 1960’s the only way for the local people to head to the nearest city of Kalamata, 41 kms away, was by boat, foot or donkey. Just twenty minutes drive from Agios Nikolaos brings you to a notable ancient Greek village of tremdous beauty, Kardimilli.

The center of village life is the harbour, lined with a good choice of outdoor tavernas and old buildings of local charm. You can sit and enjoy life pass by whilst enchanted by the blue sea and colorful fishing boats, and watch the antics of the local fishermen as they prepare their lines and nets. Fishing and olives are the lifeblood of the village, which is also extremely welcoming to visitors.

A gentle flat stroll outside the village brings you to Pantazi beach where white sands and stones stretch down to the sea which is perfect for swimming. There are many walks to enjoy locally: you can venture into the lower villages which sit in the shadow of Taygetos Mountain, or take the relaxing coastal path walk into Stoupa.

Traditional Greek food epitomises the healthy Mediterranean diet, and you can enjoy the local fish, fresh salads, and mezes available in thecharming tavernas. Greg’s Platia on the harbour is a must for the warmest welcome, and you can have fun trying to spot the owner Gregoris trying to skive off and leaving his charming Mama, Aphrodite, to tend to your needs and cook something special.

Directly opposite is the local men’s kafenion where the Greek men gather to drink coffee and argue about politics and eye up everyone who walks through. Of course the visitor is able to enjoy the antics of the local community too, and Americans are especially welcome as one of the locals will want to know if you know his relative there.

Car hire is available so you can venture further afield and discover the wonders of the deep Mani, with the wonderful old village of Vathia a must to see. A trip to Gythio is highly recommended too, to enjoy lunch chosen from the washing lines, which are used to hang the octopuses up to dry before being freshly grilled.

If you enjoy peace, stunning settings and real old world charm, Agios Nikolas is the most wonderful find, but not the place for those seeking lively nightlife. If your idea of pure relaxation is to dine outdoors by the sea in the welcome late evening breeze, and sip a metaza under the stars, you could well find yourself in the your idyllic Greek dream.

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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 7, 2011

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Stoupa, Greece

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If you want to sample the real Greece in the most stunning of settings, then Stoupa is a little known gem offering a tranquil vacation on the mainland. Situated in the Southern Peloponnese, 40 km south of the city of Kalamta, Stoupa is flanked by the magnificent Taygetos Mountain on one side and the crystal clear sea on the other. It boasts the best beaches in the Peloponnese, and was once home to Nikos Kazantzakis when he wrote ‘Zorba the Greek’.Stoupa is the perfect place for young families and couples, but will have no appeal for those seeking wild nightlife. It has two large beaches, Stoupa main beach which is lined with tavernas, and Kalogria beach which is popular with families. Both...Read More

If you want to sample the real Greece in the most stunning of settings, then Stoupa is a little known gem offering a tranquil vacation on the mainland. Situated in the Southern Peloponnese, 40 km south of the city of Kalamta, Stoupa is flanked by the magnificent Taygetos Mountain on one side and the crystal clear sea on the other. It boasts the best beaches in the Peloponnese, and was once home to Nikos Kazantzakis when he wrote ‘Zorba the Greek’.

Stoupa is the perfect place for young families and couples, but will have no appeal for those seeking wild nightlife. It has two large beaches, Stoupa main beach which is lined with tavernas, and Kalogria beach which is popular with families. Both beaches are sandy and shelve gently into the blue waters.

One of the most unique things which the sea offers are natural underwater cold water springs, which can take you by surprise and work a treat at cooling you down. There are many other local beaches and coves to be found in the area. Just ten minutes drive away is the unique, old small town of Kardimilli, highly recommended for a visit.

The beaches do get extremely busy in August when lots of Athenians descend on the area. You can escape the crowds by taking to the sea. A local tourist boat offers trips to the caves of Diros, and lazy day cruising with plenty of stops for swimming in peaceful spots. You can even hire your own pedalo.

Within the small resort are plenty of Greek tavernas and restaurants which give enough choice for you to dine somewhere different every night. They are friendly and welcoming, hosted by Greeks who offer typical Greek fare of freshly prepared food in mainly informal settings. The sunsets are spectacular and famous.

If you like to get out and about and explore the area there are organised trips available to Sparta, Olympia and Athens, preferred by those who don’t want to tackle the Greek roads themselves. There is car and moped hire available too, giving you the freedom to follow the road and see where it takes you.

Stoupa is the perfect base for walking if you time it well to avoid the heat, or visit in the cooler months outside of the peak season. You can walk in the local hills and appreciate the natural beauty, taking the time to relax over lunch in the tiny mountain villages.

Take the stunning coastal path and walk to the neighboring village of Agios Nikolaos (Selinitza), a small fishing village with heaps of character. Relax with coffee and watch the fishing boats set out to sea. Outside Selinitza is another wonderful beach Pantazi, a mix of stones and sand.

Stoupa is one of those places which once discovered people return to time after time, for a relaxing vacation. Un-spoilt and tranquil, the beauty of the setting and the friendliness of the people have people booking a return trip as soon as they get back to reality.

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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 7, 2011

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Kardimilli

Attraction | "Kardimilli, Mainland Greece"

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Kardimilli is a very small Peloponnese town in mainland Greece, with ancient roots, and was once a hidden secret of Greece, unknown to foreign travellers. Now it is the choice of the selective traveller who can bask in the stunning beauty of the town, undoubtedly one of the most scenic anywhere. A sleepy place lined with simple tavernas and shops on the main street, it also has a coastline dominated by a white stony beach of great beauty and remarkably peaceful.The Taygetos mountain towers over the town, which sits in the shadow of Old Kardimilli, a wonderful abandoned village full of old tower house ruins to explore, which also houses a museum. Once the stronghold of local Maniots, the fa...Read More

Kardimilli is a very small Peloponnese town in mainland Greece, with ancient roots, and was once a hidden secret of Greece, unknown to foreign travellers. Now it is the choice of the selective traveller who can bask in the stunning beauty of the town, undoubtedly one of the most scenic anywhere. A sleepy place lined with simple tavernas and shops on the main street, it also has a coastline dominated by a white stony beach of great beauty and remarkably peaceful.

The Taygetos mountain towers over the town, which sits in the shadow of Old Kardimilli, a wonderful abandoned village full of old tower house ruins to explore, which also houses a museum. Once the stronghold of local Maniots, the famously strong clan who were the first to initiate the Greek war of Independence in 1821, it remains well worth the climb to be amazed at the isolated splendour.

Considered by many to be the best travel writer, Patrick Leigh Fermor put Kardimilli on the map when he described it in his renowned book ‘Mani’, back in the 1950’s. Fermor is a legend as a British soldier who was a Greek resistance fighter in World War 11. Now at the age of 94, he lives on the outskirts of Kardimilli.

Kardimilli has everything to make a place visually perfect. There is the crystal blue sea; the length of white beach; old houses hosting balconies and surrounded by flowers. The lushness of the surrounding countryside is full of olive trees, orange trees, and wild flowers, and for much of the year Tygetos remains snow capped.

There is a small harbour too which is great for swimming from, and a lovely square to watch the world go by in the shadow of the beautiful church. Side streets hold more tavernas giving plenty of choice. Lela’s remains the place to eat, run by the wonderful Lela who is now in her 80’s. It sits overlooking the sea and is famous for her cooking, but a good tip is to order your food in advance as when it runs out it runs out. There is also a good mix of traditional and modern coffee houses to enjoy.

Kardimilli is more favoured by the independent traveller and is a four hour drive from Athens. A bus goes right from Athens to the town, allowing you to enjoy the scenery on route. It is fifty minutes south from the city of Kalamata, which offers many amenities and great shopping opportunities. Most visitors to Kardimilli are drawn by the walking opportunities in the local mountains, and the chance to explore the many small mountain villages which look down towards Kardimilli.

There is a mix of apartments, rooms and small hotels, but if you want a base which is unique or for a special occasion then the Hotel Notos sits just 1km outside the village, a delightful boutique hotel with magnificent views and a very warm welcome. For a travel option with a difference then Kardimilli offers beauty, peace, history, a beach and the sea, as well as being a great exploratory base for seeing many of the other wonderful things in the Mani. It is best suited to walkers and couples rather than a setting for a family vacation. Families would prefer Stoupa, just ten minutes drive south, offering the chance to visit and explore Kardimilli.

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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 7, 2011

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Kalamata Town

Attraction | "Kalamata, Greece"

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There is a modern vibrant buzz to Kalamata, the beautiful Greek city which sits at the foot of Mt. Taygetos on the shores of the Bay of Messina. Kalamata is famous the world over for the wonderful olives the area produces, and the surrounding countryside is filled with olive groves, spectacular scenery, and historical towns and villages. Kalamata is the ideal base for exploring the Peloponnese as it sits midway between the deep Mani to the South and Sparta to the North. The coast of Koroni lies to the West, and nearby is the best preserved archaeological site of Ancient Messini. Kalamata airport rose to international fame in 2002 when 12 British plane spotters were arrested for taking phot...Read More

There is a modern vibrant buzz to Kalamata, the beautiful Greek city which sits at the foot of Mt. Taygetos on the shores of the Bay of Messina. Kalamata is famous the world over for the wonderful olives the area produces, and the surrounding countryside is filled with olive groves, spectacular scenery, and historical towns and villages. Kalamata is the ideal base for exploring the Peloponnese as it sits midway between the deep Mani to the South and Sparta to the North. The coast of Koroni lies to the West, and nearby is the best preserved archaeological site of Ancient Messini.

Kalamata airport rose to international fame in 2002 when 12 British plane spotters were arrested for taking photographs there, despite the signs pointing out it is a military airport and no photographs were allowed. Presumed to be rather obvious spies the British hobbyists weren’t very impressed with the amenities of Kalamata prison. Unless flying in from Europe you are more likely to arrive in Kalmata by car or bus rather than plane, as the airport only opens for limited times. It is less than a four hour drive from Athens airport to reach Kalamata, and is well worth the drive.

Although many buildings in Kalamata were destroyed in the earthquake of 1986, some of the older sites do still remain in the old quarter of town. Kalamata caste dominates, looking down on the old fashioned shopping area and huge fruit and vegetable market. The central point of Kalamata is Aristomenous street which runs between the old quarter and the beach. It is lined with cafes and tavernas where you can sit and sip coffee in the central square, before discovering the delights of the unique shops.

All the shops close between 2pm and 6pm, which is a good time to head down to the beach, which runs for several kilometres. The beach road is lined with more cafes, tavernas and beach bars providing excellent refreshments. Some prefer the more sophisticated side of town where the marina is placed, home to international yachts, with many good restaurants. Beach life continues until dark and the town center looks lovely when illuminated for night time shopping, when it is cooler.

Many Greeks head to Kalamata in the August holidays, appreciating the mix it offers as both an ideal base for exploring the Peloponnese further, as well as for its own amenities, beaches and shops. It is a calm and safe city with the pace of life only a little faster than that of the surrounding villages which are well worth discovering in their traditional styles. If the thought of the real Greece appeals to you then Kalamata offers it all.

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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 7, 2011

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