Four Corners

Day One

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Just over the Colorado border Photo - Colorado, United States

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A couple of weeks ago we explored the Rocky Mountains, and, at a friends suggestion, decided to also take in the scenery around the Durango and Vallecito Lake area. This time we had four full days, and the same two small dogs.The northward drive to Colorado from our Santa Fe home was spent mostly on the rolling route 84. It was a much more scenic option than the I-25 we traversed last time. And, just over the border we got our first glimpse of the craggy peaks and pine forests broken up by alpine meadows dotted with purple and white flowers.Looming overhead are unusual rock formations, one of the most bizarre being Chimney Rock, located within the San Juan National Forest an...Read More

A couple of weeks ago we explored the Rocky Mountains, and, at a friends suggestion, decided to also take in the scenery around the Durango and Vallecito Lake area. This time we had four full days, and the same two small dogs.

The northward drive to Colorado from our Santa Fe home was spent mostly on the rolling route 84. It was a much more scenic option than the I-25 we traversed last time. And, just over the border we got our first glimpse of the craggy peaks and pine forests broken up by alpine meadows dotted with purple and white flowers.

Looming overhead are unusual rock formations, one of the most bizarre being Chimney Rock, located within the San Juan National Forest and Southern Ute Indian Reservation. Roughly a thousand years ago the Pueblo Indians created permanent structures (totalling 200 individual rooms) and a couple of dozen work camps around the twin spires. The Chacoan-style Great House atop the Chimney Rock’s high mesa is thought to have been constructed to take full advantage of the lunar cycles. Every 18.6 years (the last was 2007) the moon rises between the dual rock formations.

For lunch we stopped at the first restaurant coming into Pagosa Springs, Junction Family Dining at 401 E. Pagosa Street. My burger and fries were barely average, and my better half’s club sandwich was soggy. The waitress was distracted or hated her job, we couldn’t decide. The only positive was that they allowed dogs on their deck. Our Westie would like to note that my taste buds are "undeveloped" when it comes to burger.

In Bayfield, as recommended by the owner of the cabin that we rented, we stocked up on supplies. Either right next door or across the street (E. Colorado Drive) are the grocery, bakery, gourmet and butcher shop, and wine/liquor store. The last stop before heading towards the lake was the wine shop. I was curious about Colorado’s wines and inquired about which was best to the clerk. Unenthusied, she replied, "Colorado has a growing wine industry. Any is as good as the other." I selected one of each to test her theory later.

We checked in and received keys to our cabin. What a splendid view from the deck. We could look right down at the rippling waters, and across to the pine-covered mountains. Then we discovered the usual "dog friendly" cabin cycle. The cabins are erected as "luxury" cabins, a decade later they are rented as "rustic" for a couple of decades, then for forty years, or until a land developer comes along, the cabin is rented to dog lovers.

Inside I discovered the flooring, faux paneling and kitchen cabinets from Grandma’s 1974 mobile home. We were surprised that this cabin lacked a fireplace because when you think of a mountain cabin that’s the first amenity which pops into mind. More startling was the nearly-obsolete stove and gurgling toilet. We’d make do. They did allow dogs, which was wonderful as the "heated" cabins had their heat supplied by one small plug-in heater which you had to stand nearby to feel anything. The dogs became foot warmers once we went to bed.

That night for dinner we did manage to make a pasta feast on the two-burner stove. To accompany we opened up the "table red" from Plum Creek. I endorse the clerk’s statement about Colorado wines. Read Less

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Day Two

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Vallecito Lake Photo - Durango, Colorado

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We awoke to drizzle, which became rain quickly so we opted to take a drive around Vallecito Lake. Within a mile or two we were dismayed to discover that the pine beetles, which were destroying the Rockies, had also infested this area. To add to the problems, the lake had been reduced by a third. Large stretches of muck took up miles of shoreline and the marina was now stranded inland.Apparently, low water levels have plagued the lake for several years. In early 2008 three agencies partnered up with the idea to "seed" the clouds. Basically a minute amount of silver iodide is sprayed across a propane flame which helps the particles to rise into the clouds where it causes moisture to fre...Read More

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Days Three and Four

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Are we in Scotland? Photo - Colorado, United States

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DAY THREEExhausted from the long drive of yesterday we decided to simply enjoy the lake. First, we sipped coffee from the deck with the mist rising into the tall pines as we read the news. Next, we plopped down with books on our deck, then lunch still overlooking the lake, and a walk next to the waters. Dinner was take-out from Schank House Bar & Grill (17460 County Road 501, Bayfield). Juliana’s grilled chicken salad was a delight, but my "broasted" chicken was fried well but bland. I fired up the laptop to begin my IgoUgo article, and opened the bottle of white Colorado wine, a Gewurztraminer from Cottonwood Cellars. Halfway through the article, and the ...Read More

DAY THREE

Exhausted from the long drive of yesterday we decided to simply enjoy the lake. First, we sipped coffee from the deck with the mist rising into the tall pines as we read the news. Next, we plopped down with books on our deck, then lunch still overlooking the lake, and a walk next to the waters.

Dinner was take-out from Schank House Bar & Grill (17460 County Road 501, Bayfield). Juliana’s grilled chicken salad was a delight, but my "broasted" chicken was fried well but bland.

I fired up the laptop to begin my IgoUgo article, and opened the bottle of white Colorado wine, a Gewurztraminer from Cottonwood Cellars. Halfway through the article, and the nearly too-sweet bottle of wine, Juliana asked "I wonder if they use local water on the grape vines?" I pondered the amount of silver iodide now in my wine glass.

DAY FOUR

Awaking early, we herded sheep. Technically, on our way into town, just a few miles from the cabin, we became part of a herd being led from their summer pasture to their winter grazing fields. For a few moments we thought we were in Scotland as herders tried to clear a path for our car.

Sheep-free, we headed back to Durango to stroll the Animas River Trail, which is a hard-surface trail running seven miles to the south from 32nd Ave. and E. 2nd Ave. The trail crosses much of the city, through parks and across five bridges, one of which is an old footbridge relocated from nearby Smelter Mountain.

After fortifying ourselves with another French lunch (see my note on Jean Pierre’s Bakery earlier) we tried to locate a Colorado ghost town - I am a big ghost town fan.

The town was named La Plata. Here’s how to find it: Take 160 (also called the Navajo Trail) north out of Durango, past Hesperus into the San Juan National Forest. Turn right on county road 124. Look for two sign postings down in a small dip to the right of the road. You’ve missed it if the road turns into a teeth-rattling rut. Two wheel drive is okay to get to the ghost town, but to go further, you will need four-wheel drive. (Which we had but there’s no way we were going much further.) Do not try this in winter! Also, please remember that this is bear country. They can and will tear apart your car to find food. There are no disposal units so its best to eat lunch in town.

Like many Western towns, La Plata was established due to gold, which was first discovered in the area in 1775 by a Spanish explorer, Juan de Rivera. The town sprang up a hundred years later when a larger gold vein was located. By the early 1900s the gold, and some silver, mining was in decline. One mine, the Bessie G, remained open until 1955. Now, the only remains of the town are the two posted signs explaining the history of La Plata. (La Plata is also the name of a river and a mountain peak nearby).

On your return from the ghost town, you’ll pass a large stream on one side and a decent-sized waterfall on the other. It’s the perfect place to play for an afternoon.

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Mesa Verde National Park

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Attraction | "Day Five"

Far View Photo - Mesa Verde National Park, Mesa Verde, Colorado

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Mesa VerdeIn the October 1999 issue of National Geographic, Mesa Verde placed on the list of "50 Places of a Lifetime". It has landed on several other lists of "must see" places since then. After visiting, I can see why. Mesa Verde is the granddaddy of cliff dwellings and a true world wonder. Period.Mesa Verde National Park is located in the southwest corner of Colorado, an hour’s drive from Cortez on Highway 160. On June 29th, 1906 President Theodore Roosevelt established Mesa Verde as a national park. He wanted to "preserve the works of man." He was referring to the Ancestoral Pueblo people who built the cliff dwellings and lived in the area for 750 years (550 ACE - 130...Read More

Mesa Verde National Park
West Highway 160
Mesa Verde, Colorado 81330

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