Languedoc Roussillon, the Land of Wine and Honey

Highlights of the Languedoc Roussillon

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Day Trip to Montpellier Photo - Languedoc Roussillon, France

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For anyone staying in or around Carcassonne there are many places of interest besides the city itself. Just under 60 kilometres away is the Abbaye de Fontfroide, which dates from 1093. Visitors can take a tour and visit their wine tasting cellar. There is a bar and restaurant on site and trails wind through vineyards and up to a viewpoint for a bird’s eye view of the abbey site. Although outside of the region, driving to the Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres, Spain definitely deserves a full day. Located about 170km (1 hour 40) from Carcassonne it is a must for art lovers. In addition, the drive south is one of the more scenic routes in Europe, with the Mediterranean coast on one side of th...Read More

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Best Way to Get Around

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The Canal du Midi Photo - Languedoc Roussillon, France

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The best way to travel around the Languedoc Roussillon is undoubtedly by car. By driving you have to make the decision between the speedy toll roads and the less direct but toll-free auxiliary routes. If you have the time to travel at a more leisurely pace, and you’re super fit, biking around the region wouldn’t be a bad way to travel but keep in mind that it’s hilly here and even in April, the skies are clear and the sun beats down with often little roadside shade to be found.One area that is more shaded is along the Canal du Midi. Again, if time is on your side hiring a barge to travel the width of the region must be a pleasant way to go. The Canal runs from Toulouse in the...Read More

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Les Jardins de Saint-Benoit: Accommodation, Spa and Restaurant

Jardins de Saint-Benoit (Les)

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Hotel | "In the Gardens of Saint-Benoit "

Les Jardins de Saint-Benoit Photo - Jardins de Saint-Benoit (Les), Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse, France

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Nestled into vine-covered hills at the end of the diminutive village of St. Laurent de la Cabrerisse are the ‘Gardens’ of Saint-Benoit. The resort is made up of some sixteen individually named streets, along which rows of terraced ‘maisons’ sit waiting to greet the latest influx of guests.The recently opened Saint-Benoit was a contentious project. It is essentially an expansive resort located in a rugged frontier region rich in Cathar history and winemaking. The proposal to build a new 20-acre holiday park here was a bold one but the plans went through apparently with a slim majority vote of support from local residents. To their credit, the architects of the village ensured th...Read More

Nestled into vine-covered hills at the end of the diminutive village of St. Laurent de la Cabrerisse are the ‘Gardens’ of Saint-Benoit. The resort is made up of some sixteen individually named streets, along which rows of terraced ‘maisons’ sit waiting to greet the latest influx of guests.

The recently opened Saint-Benoit was a contentious project. It is essentially an expansive resort located in a rugged frontier region rich in Cathar history and winemaking. The proposal to build a new 20-acre holiday park here was a bold one but the plans went through apparently with a slim majority vote of support from local residents.

To their credit, the architects of the village ensured that Les Jardins de Saint-Benoit was constructed with an eye on the structural designs of neighbouring St. Laurent de la Cabrerisse. Each row of houses has matching shutters and window frames of teal blue, salmon red and other bright contrasts for the terracotta pipe tile roofs. On the ground, the new lines of lavender, cypress and olive trees are a little too neat looking but in a few years they should grow into their ‘garrigue’ (scrubland) landscape quite nicely.

Checking in at the main reception, staff are fast and courteous. A porter zips up on a golf cart, taking guests to their car to retrieve luggage and then whisking them to their holiday home.

Guest and suitcase are deposited at the front door and the porter conducts a brief key card demonstration. If such an instruction sounds excessive, let me assure that it isn’t. The locking and unlocking of the front door is so complex that guests are given a printed step-by-step guide as well as the one-to-one tutorial.
All I’ll say is that I carried the printed guide with me for the duration of our stay, referred to it almost every time we left the house and wondered if retinal scanning to gain entry wouldn’t have been an easier option.

Our house, situated near the end of Rue Gustave Fayet was a bright, open plan house with kitchen, dining, living area and toilet downstairs and a large bedroom with pitched ceiling and bathroom upstairs. Sandstone tiles created a cooling floor throughout the house and extended to the shaded outdoor patio.

The furniture was mostly a mix of wicker and wood and the kitchen came well equipped with microwave, kettle, coffee maker, dishwasher and plenty of cutlery, crockery, pots and pans. One annoying omission was washing up liquid. The houses are cleaned every four days (or more often for a supplemental charge) and not providing even a nominal amount of dishwashing agent seemed a bit stingey. I read somewhere that dishes can be cleaned with lemons but now know that they’re not half as effective as some sponge and soap.

Each house has free wifi and at least two large television sets. The outdoor patio is set with table and four chairs, lovely for al fresco dining. Our stay at Saint-Benoit was at the end of April so the temperature was comfortable in the low to mid 20s. The resort was also fairly quiet, meaning that we didn’t feel encroached upon by neighbouring holidaymakers despite the fact that the patios are only vaguely separated by panels of woven twigs.

In the height of the summer season I can imagine that there isn’t much privacy to be had, which may or may not be a problem. Just know that if your immediate neighbours have screaming kids in tow, a quiet moment to yourself with a good book or a romantic evening glass of wine on the patio may prove elusive. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 3, 2010

Jardins de Saint-Benoit (Les)
Route de Talairan
Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse
+33 4 6711-8715

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Jardins de Saint-Benoit (Les)

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Restaurant | "Corbieres, Tapenade and an Armagnac to Finish"

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On site at the Saint-Benoit is a long restaurant, available to guests for breakfast and evening dining. To be honest, I don’t know if it is open to none-guests so if you’re not staying on site it’s worth calling beforehand to enquire about reservations. When we checked in we were advised to make reservations for dinner but I would say that outside of the summer months, this may not be absolutely necessary. We enjoyed a bottle of Corbières red on the outdoor terrace beforehand. It must be said that the sunset views from Saint Benoit across to the village of St. Laurent de la Cabrerisse really are quite breathtaking. It’s not that this landscape is especially dramatic or exotic but when the ...Read More

On site at the Saint-Benoit is a long restaurant, available to guests for breakfast and evening dining. To be honest, I don’t know if it is open to none-guests so if you’re not staying on site it’s worth calling beforehand to enquire about reservations. When we checked in we were advised to make reservations for dinner but I would say that outside of the summer months, this may not be absolutely necessary.

We enjoyed a bottle of Corbières red on the outdoor terrace beforehand. It must be said that the sunset views from Saint Benoit across to the village of St. Laurent de la Cabrerisse really are quite breathtaking. It’s not that this landscape is especially dramatic or exotic but when the last sunrays bathe the vineyards in a golden light and illuminate the brick red clay earth, you do feel particularly fortunate to be sitting enjoying a glass of what the earth produces best in this part of France.

A complimentary tapas plate appeared, laden with artisan breads, olive tapenade, mixed peppers and a curious aubergine ‘caviar’ (their description, not mine), which was bizarrely the most tasteless of the three dips.

We moved inside for dinner where a group of very serious wait staff presented us with the evening’s menu. We both chose the swordfish with a fennel mash. Perhaps the Corbières had gone to our head but it tasted like everything on our plate (except the fish) had been pulled fresh from the Saint Benoit gardens. For dessert we ordered a chocolate feuillotine and a fruity tiramisu. Both were good but not as impressive as the mains and the tiramisu more closely resembled a small trifle, which I love, so this is less a complaint and more a minor detail.

The meal over, we walked a few paces to the bar area for an Armagnac digestif. The bartender recommended the Saint Vivant. He did give the disclaimer that it was ‘tres fort!’ but it was so good my husband had to go back for a few more during the course of our stay.

The décor in the bar is an extension of the ‘maison’ style although it did seem that there were a few too many chairs of varying shapes and sizes crowding the floor space. The couches were comfy though and sitting at the far end of the bar, we could look through a small library where guests can exchange holiday reads. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 3, 2010

Jardins de Saint-Benoit (Les)

+33 (0)4.67.11.87.15

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Jardins de Saint-Benoit (Les)

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Attraction | "The Spa at Saint-Benoit"

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The entrance to the spa at Les Jardins can be found opposite the reception desk. Candles line the stone steps leading down to an indoor pool and adjoining area reserved for massage and other treatments. It is here that guests staying in the village come to fill up delicate glass bottles with honey-scented liquid soap and select small bricks of locally made bar soaps of lavender, strawberry, red wine or for tomato and basil. While the spa sounds, and looks like a haven of relaxation, we were taken aback by the entrance fee to the indoor pool and jacuzzi area: €20 (about $25 or £17). This is the price per person, per visit! The pool area is nice, but it’s not that nice. The jacuzzi is shallo...Read More

The entrance to the spa at Les Jardins can be found opposite the reception desk. Candles line the stone steps leading down to an indoor pool and adjoining area reserved for massage and other treatments. It is here that guests staying in the village come to fill up delicate glass bottles with honey-scented liquid soap and select small bricks of locally made bar soaps of lavender, strawberry, red wine or for tomato and basil.

While the spa sounds, and looks like a haven of relaxation, we were taken aback by the entrance fee to the indoor pool and jacuzzi area: €20 (about $25 or £17). This is the price per person, per visit! The pool area is nice, but it’s not that nice. The jacuzzi is shallow, lukewarm and not overly bubbly. The pool is fairly small so get a few rich people in there and it would soon feel like the jacuzzi I’m sure. The steam room and saunas are fine too but steam rooms and saunas tend to be the same wherever you are in the world. Overall it’s the one area that offers poor value for money and unless it is included in your holiday package it really isn’t worth shelling out €20 for a trip.

Next to the pool area is the centre where a wide array of massage, reflexology and detox treatments are available. These should be booked at least a day ahead (probably two days in peak season) at the spa reception.

Guests are allocated a changing room locker and swap clothes for a white robe and slippers before moving across the hallway to the tranquility of the treatment area. White walls and wicker furniture inhabit the vast space and with white drapes billowing in the breeze guests could be forgiven for thinking they’ve wandered into paradise. That you’re paying for it is a small matter although unlike the pool area, the treatments are a little more reasonably priced.

The rooms are light, warm and the tables are comfortably padded, making it easy to nod off mid-massage. I went for a basic sixty minute ‘Modelage relaxant mediterraneen’ (treatments are available in longer and shorter time increments) and admit that I left just a little short-changed when I realized the masseuse had stopped about ten minutes short of my allotted time. Afterwards I was shown out to a long room where guests can relax further with some star anise tea and listen to the birds singing outside in the shingled courtyard. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on July 3, 2010

Jardins de Saint-Benoit (Les)

Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse

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Wine Tasting Trips

Abbaye de Fontfroide

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Attraction | "Wine Tasting at Fontfroide"

Fontfroide Abbey Photo - Abbaye de Fontfroide, Narbonne, France

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All around the Languedoc Roussillon region the earth is sculpted by an ancient art form: winemaking. Vineyards blanket the rich red clay and sand terroir, sweeping across the foothills towards Carcassonne and beyond. We stopped at three small wineries to sample what we hoped would be some of the region’s finest.The Abbaye de Fontfroide planted its religious roots here in 1093 and the monks were quick to continue the wine-making legacy left by the Romans. The Abbey’s output was such that ‘Fontfroide’ became one of the eleven terroirs within the vast Corbières appellation and today they produce an array of red, white and rosé wines. Under the Abbey’s gift shop is a smart tasting ...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on July 3, 2010

Abbaye de Fontfroide
Route Departementale 613
Narbonne, France
+33 4 68 45 11 08

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Chateau de Caraguilhes

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Attraction | "Wine Tasting at Caraguilhes"

Chateau de Caraguilhes Photo - Chateau de Caraguilhes, Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse, France

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Just a few kilometers away from Fontfroide, but in the clay, limestone and sandstone terroir of Boutenac is Château de Caraguilhes. Once part of Abbaye de Fontfroide’s vineyards, Caraghuiles’ history dates back to the twelfth century. Somehow the domain’s 600 hectares endured and produces under the same name today. About 30km west of the Mediterranean coast we turned off the D611 and rumbled along a straight dirt track flanked by tall purple irises that lead to Caraguilhes. Unlike the serenity and propriety of Fontfroide, this estate was in a flurry of bottling and construction activity. A long truck was parked alongside the back of the main building and as we pulled up, we cou...Read More

Just a few kilometers away from Fontfroide, but in the clay, limestone and sandstone terroir of Boutenac is Château de Caraguilhes. Once part of Abbaye de Fontfroide’s vineyards, Caraghuiles’ history dates back to the twelfth century. Somehow the domain’s 600 hectares endured and produces under the same name today.

About 30km west of the Mediterranean coast we turned off the D611 and rumbled along a straight dirt track flanked by tall purple irises that lead to Caraguilhes.

Unlike the serenity and propriety of Fontfroide, this estate was in a flurry of bottling and construction activity. A long truck was parked alongside the back of the main building and as we pulled up, we could see that it opened up into a mobile bottling production line.

The deep, musty ‘cave’ was decorated with bottles of Caraguilhes while in the next room, a jackhammer threatened to pollute the peace as builders readied the space for new vats in time for the 2010 grape harvest. But even the drilling didn’t manage to spoil the impromptu one-to-one tasting of what turned out to be our favourite wines of the trip.

We skipped the whites and rosé and started straight out on the reds, all of which are blends of at least three grape varietals. It should be mentioned that all the grapes grown at Caraguilhes are organic. Chemical products have not been used on their domain since 1987 and while the estate is some 600 hectares in size, only 100 hectares is actually used for grape-growing. This means that the remaining 500 hectares forms a natural garrigue boundary, helping to protect the organic vines from any pesticides that blow in from neighbouring farms.

We started with their 2007 Domaine de l’Olivette, a complex combination of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Syrah. We followed this with samples of the 2005 Classique Rouge and 2007 Prestige. In spite of the dizzying mix of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache Noir and Carignan grapes, all three reds were surprisingly simple and smooth and it was only the fourth and final Solus that I found just a bit too rich. Unlike their other reds, the Solus is aged for up to a year in new oak barrels and the difference was noticeable. I wanted to take a bottle back to Fontfroide and tell the wine shop attendant that this was definitely one to have with a big lamb dish.

The good news for anyone not heading to the south of France in the near future is that Caraguilhes is sold in the UK. Their Rosé and Classique Rouge should be on a Waitrose shelf near you, where they have been suppliers for about ten years.

Finally we tried a limited edition dessert wine. The 1998 ‘Le Grenache du Château’ was a one-off and it is a great shame there are no plans to recreate it. Their ‘vin de liqueur’ is the shade of brandy but has hints of Jerez sherry and lacks the overbearing sweetness of many digestifs. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on July 3, 2010

Chateau de Caraguilhes
Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse
Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse
+33 (0)4 68 27 88 99

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Chateau Les Palais

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Attraction | "Wine Tasting at Les Palais"

Chateau les Palais Photo - Chateau Les Palais, Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse, France

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We asked our host at Caraguilhes if she would recommend any other wineries in the area and she magnanimously suggested Château Les Palais, which is run by the mayor of Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse and his wife.Like Caraguilhes, Les Palais is located at the end of a dusty track off the D611 but is neatly obscured from the main road by a row of tall trees. Around a large shaded pond are a couple of gîte cottages, a stone chapel which now serves as the tasting room and the beautiful family home of Mayor Xavier and Anne de Volontat. Take away the signage directing guests to the ‘Caveau de Dégustation’ and Les Palais could easily feature in a Marcel Pagnol film adaptation. We arri...Read More

We asked our host at Caraguilhes if she would recommend any other wineries in the area and she magnanimously suggested Château Les Palais, which is run by the mayor of Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse and his wife.

Like Caraguilhes, Les Palais is located at the end of a dusty track off the D611 but is neatly obscured from the main road by a row of tall trees. Around a large shaded pond are a couple of gîte cottages, a stone chapel which now serves as the tasting room and the beautiful family home of Mayor Xavier and Anne de Volontat. Take away the signage directing guests to the ‘Caveau de Dégustation’ and Les Palais could easily feature in a Marcel Pagnol film adaptation.

We arrived at Les Palais late in the day and were kindly admitted entrance to their beautiful tasting room. Originally a small chapel and later used as stables, the crude bricked hall has a high arched ceiling and two tiny windows, creating an effective cooling system. So cool was the room in fact that we were lead in by the panting family dog and soon joined by a flourish of swallows which danced above our heads, happy to be out of the sun for a spell.

The history of Les Palais is no less rich than that of Caraguilhes and Fontfroide. Records show that the site was inhabited from around 859 and the land was soon cultivated by religious orders. After being abandoned centuries later the Château and 130 hectares of vineyards was taken on by successive local families.

We kicked off with their Cuvée Tradition Blanc (2007). It was quite sharp and disappointingly unrefreshing so we quickly moved onto the reds. Their cheapest and most popular is the Cuvée Tradition (2008) and with a €6.20 price tag you really can’t go wrong. It wasn’t that dissimilar to Fontfroide’s Oculus and was much more palatable than its white counterpart.

Moving onto the Cuvée Randolin (2006) and for price and flavour we found our Les Palais favourite. Les Palais recommends paring the Randolin with game and strong cheeses but it would go equally well with less pungent dishes of beef or pork.

The last red was probably my favourite, the Cuvée La Chapelle. Aged for 12 years, it was a richer and somehow softer wine but at €21.50, we felt it was not quite worth the price tag when compared to the others. After little deliberation we went for two bottles of Randolin and a bottle of red Cuvée Tradition. These joined the five bottles of Caraguilhes in the boot of our car. All in all, not a bad day’s work. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 3, 2010

Chateau Les Palais

Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse, France 11220
+33 (0)4 68 44 01 63

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Day Trips in Languedoc (and Spain)

Abbaye de Fontfroide

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Attraction | "The Guided Tour of Fontfroide Abbey"

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About a half hour drive from Les Jardins de Saint-Benoit is the Abbey of Fontfroide. Founded in 1093 as a Benedictine monastery, the site was saved form ruin by painter Gustave Fayet and his wife in the early 1900s. What visitors see today is a testament to their sensitive restoration as the abbey and its grounds are an oasis of beauty and serenity in the midst of the craggy garrigue surroundings. Guided tours run once an hour in the winter and twice an hour in the summer, with a break for lunch around 1pm. It is well worth the €9 entry fee to wander through the wisteria-framed 12th cloister and into the cavernous church. The tours are in French but foreign language audio guides are availa...Read More

About a half hour drive from Les Jardins de Saint-Benoit is the Abbey of Fontfroide. Founded in 1093 as a Benedictine monastery, the site was saved form ruin by painter Gustave Fayet and his wife in the early 1900s. What visitors see today is a testament to their sensitive restoration as the abbey and its grounds are an oasis of beauty and serenity in the midst of the craggy garrigue surroundings.

Guided tours run once an hour in the winter and twice an hour in the summer, with a break for lunch around 1pm. It is well worth the €9 entry fee to wander through the wisteria-framed 12th cloister and into the cavernous church. The tours are in French but foreign language audio guides are available for no extra charge.

Besides the church itself, the tour takes in the picturesque courtyard, the cloister and the servants’ dormitory, which later served as a granary. The fact that the various halls are now completely vacant allows visitors to wander freely and grab plenty of photos on the way round. It also allows you to appreciate the natural light which streams in through stunning wrought iron gates embellished with grape clusters and doors inset with multi-coloured glass and starfish motifs.

The church itself is barely illuminated. Fayet replaced the destroyed original windows with glass stained in luminous navy and deep scarlet colours. The sunlight that does eke through shines almost as bright as neon, creating the most striking spectacle under the towering arches of Fontfroide.

Upstairs, the old granary originally served as servants sleeping quarters and the guide explained that the monks’ servants took the same oath that the monks themselves swore to. Their devotion must have run strong as the had to endure freezing winter temperatures sleeping in the long stone hall.

The tour ends in the rose garden, which was once the abbey cemetery. Being that we visited in April, there were sadly no roses in bloom. In 1990 some 3,000 rose bushes were planted and when in flower, they must complete the scene of what must be one of the most beautiful gardens in the south of France.

The tour lasts about an hour and while children are welcome, it may not be the most entertaining activity for them.

Outside of the tour, there are two signposted walks, one is a flat loop that takes you through vineyards and the other is a short but steep ascent to a viewpoint where a tall metal cross stands. It replaced a wooden cross originally erected by Cistercian monks of the abbey in the nineteenth century but destroyed in the 1950s by bad weather. The walk up to the cross is mostly on loose stones so good footwear is recommended. Once there you’re rewarded with commanding views over the top of the abbey grounds although through the distant fog I couldn’t quite see ‘la mer’, as a sign indicates being to the east of the cross.

The abbey has a restaurant and a café. The restaurant is somewhat pricey but baguette sandwiches can be ordered at the café, which is a lot more informal and better priced. Also on site are a ‘cave’ wine shop and a souvenir shop, where the tour tickets are sold. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on July 3, 2010

Abbaye de Fontfroide
Route Departementale 613
Narbonne, France
+33 4 68 45 11 08

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Half Day Trip to Lagrasse

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Village of Lagrasse Photo - Languedoc Roussillon, France

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Less than half an hour from Saint Laurent de Cabrerisse is the village of LaGrasse. As you enter the village, a sign introduces it as one of ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France’ (it is part of an association, not something the locals decided upon independently) and in all fairness, the caption is fitting.The village is surrounded by vines sticking out of mud the colour of clay and its wine making heritage is apparent up and down the village. We arrived on a Tuesday afternoon to a village that was mostly closed up for the day. A couple of shops and a curious museum were open but for the mostpart, places didn’t appear to open until 7pm or so. Either they’ve figured out a way to be...Read More

Less than half an hour from Saint Laurent de Cabrerisse is the village of LaGrasse. As you enter the village, a sign introduces it as one of ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France’ (it is part of an association, not something the locals decided upon independently) and in all fairness, the caption is fitting.

The village is surrounded by vines sticking out of mud the colour of clay and its wine making heritage is apparent up and down the village.

We arrived on a Tuesday afternoon to a village that was mostly closed up for the day. A couple of shops and a curious museum were open but for the mostpart, places didn’t appear to open until 7pm or so. Either they’ve figured out a way to be prosperous and no one else is in on the secret or they pride themselves on taking the longest siesta in Europe. Or both.

We walked the length of the main street and popped our heads into a lovely gift shop, selling local wines and soaps scented with lavender and honey. We then found our way to the historic covered market, surround by 14th – 16th century houses. The marketplace was empty but in one corner, a shop selling goods made entirely of leather was open and attracting the handful of visitors to the village that day.

We continued on to a steep, stone bridge which apparently dates from the 12th century and traverses the River Orbieu to the Abbey. The roots of the Abbaye de Lagrasse were planted way back at the end of the 8th century. It is open to the public every day during the summer months (there is a small entrance fee) and a guided tour lasts about an hour and a half.

Back on the other side of the river, some school children had set up a table outside their house, selling homemade chocolate éclairs so we forked out a euro or two an enjoyed a pastry that outshone many high street bakers.

We walked back towards the main street by way of some deserted back alleyways and saw only a crooked old lady and a black and white cat on our way back.

There is a large overflow car park at the top of the village so it’s clear that Lagrasse isn’t this quiet year round. If you’re not bothered by the lack of activity and shopping opportunities it is probably a little easier to appreciate the beauty of the place in the off season. Or wait until 7pm and perhaps you will be fortunate enough to enjoy both the shops and the scenery. Read Less

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Day Trip to Carcassonne

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Carcassonne Photo - Languedoc Roussillon, France

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About half an hour from our hotel is the fortress town of Carcassonne. The ramparts circle the medieval core and are make for an impressive sight upon approach. The town is divided into two distinct parts so deciding where to park is a little tricky. We found a convenient (and free) place to park at the foot of the ‘Cite’ but only ten minutes walk in the opposite direction to the ‘ville basse’. We started with the steep ascent up into the Cite, a walled town which is part quaint village and part theme park and reminiscent of Mont St. Michel. We didn’t go into the castle itself (we probably should have but got had unfortunately spent too much time getting to Castelnaudary that day) so spent...Read More

About half an hour from our hotel is the fortress town of Carcassonne. The ramparts circle the medieval core and are make for an impressive sight upon approach. The town is divided into two distinct parts so deciding where to park is a little tricky. We found a convenient (and free) place to park at the foot of the ‘Cite’ but only ten minutes walk in the opposite direction to the ‘ville basse’.

We started with the steep ascent up into the Cite, a walled town which is part quaint village and part theme park and reminiscent of Mont St. Michel. We didn’t go into the castle itself (we probably should have but got had unfortunately spent too much time getting to Castelnaudary that day) so spent our time wandering around the shops, picking up some scented soaps and addictive biscuits of varying flavours.

For those wanting to venture into the castle proper, there are guided and audio tours on offer. Entry fees vary depending on age and EU nationality but the general charge for adults is €13 which gives access to the château, ramparts and museum.

Despite having undergone extensive restoration in 1853 by architect Eugene Viollet-le-Duc, Carcassonne became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. It may lack the distinguished history of nearby sites such as Lascaux but the 52 towers and 3km of battlements cannot fail to impress and visitors are free to wander the streets outside the castle and enjoy views of the ‘ville basse’ and River Aude below.

There are plenty of cafes and bars to suck in the tourists in the Cite but we decided to walk down into the ‘ville basse’ and try our luck at Place Carnot. The long plaza has a lazy laid back air, with locals sipping beers and coffees outside in the sun and children running around the trees and central fountain.

We stopped for a glass of beer before walking up the main shopping street toward the train station. The cobbled Rue Georges Clemenceau is pedestrianised but lined by the usual bunch of French chains. The shops had petered out by the time we reached the SNCF station and finding little else of interest in the ville basse we retraced our steps and headed back towards the Cite. Read Less

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Grignote (La)

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Restaurant | "Cassoulet at La Grignote"

La Grignote Restaurant Photo - Grignote (La) , Castelnaudary, France

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A guidebook somewhat mistakenly led us to Castelnaudary. The alleged birthplace of cassoulet, our book promised a lively Monday market so we drove almost 40 km west of Carcassonne to peruse and sample some of the local produce. Sadly the marketplace had all but cleared out by the time we rolled up at midday so we wandered around the hilltop town in search of some quaint food and souvenir shops instead. We soon came to the conclusion that there are none. Castelnaudary is a small, sleepy and sadly not very exciting place to visit. We drowned our sorrows in a large lunch at the corner restaurant ‘La Grignote’. La Grignote is one of about three or four restaurants that mark a trail down Rue du...Read More

A guidebook somewhat mistakenly led us to Castelnaudary. The alleged birthplace of cassoulet, our book promised a lively Monday market so we drove almost 40 km west of Carcassonne to peruse and sample some of the local produce. Sadly the marketplace had all but cleared out by the time we rolled up at midday so we wandered around the hilltop town in search of some quaint food and souvenir shops instead. We soon came to the conclusion that there are none. Castelnaudary is a small, sleepy and sadly not very exciting place to visit.

We drowned our sorrows in a large lunch at the corner restaurant ‘La Grignote’. La Grignote is one of about three or four restaurants that mark a trail down Rue du General Dejean to the Canal du Midi and while the restaurant itself is fairly unremarkable, the food is good and the outdoor seating is quite pleasant.

I went for the local fare and ordered a bowl of hearty cassoulet and my husband went for a chicken salad and some Toulouse sausages with French fries. Along with a complimentary side salad and generous slices of fresh French bread, we got more than we bargained for but as it was all delicious we almost finished off the lot and still felt pangs of jealousy towards a neighbour who had ordered a huge disc dish of crème brulee.

The cassoulet is definitely a winter dish, perfect for warming up in cold weather. Chunky sausages and fluffy white haricot beans soak in a fatty gravy, cradled in a small earthenware pot all of which is incredibly filling in spite of its size. We wrongly assumed the chicken salad would be a starter portion but the barbecued meat arrived on a large plate of butter lettuce with tomatoes and onions and the Toulouse sausages were accompanied by more salad and crispy French fries.

The service was quite slow but with the food being so good we didn’t mind too much. After paying at the bar we walked down to the Grand Bassin of the Canal du Midi where traveling barges and boats would come to be repaired and restored. Like the rest of the town the basin now sees much less activity than it did in its heyday. Holidaymakers trundle through or dock their boats before heading on. The lock system at the east end of the basin is worth a look but unless you’re passing by Castelnaudary I can’t really recommend making a dedicated visit, even if the cassoulet is that good. Read Less

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on July 3, 2010

Grignote (La)
2 Rue Soumet
Castelnaudary 11400
+33 04 68 23 31 83

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Day Trip to Montpellier

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Montpellier Photo - Languedoc Roussillon, France

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Despite being a two hour drive from where we were staying, our guide book proclaimed ‘Montpellier is a great city’ in the very first sentence so we felt compelled to go. Apparently Montpellier is the fastest growing city in France and I can understand why. It’s close to the Mediterranean, seems to have good transport links and is a truly delightful place to walk around. We parked smack in the centre, underneath the Place de la Comedie and emerging like cautious moles, we tried quickly and unsuccessfully to blend in with the locals. After our drive we were hungry and thirsty so we did the most tourist-like thing and had a coffee and croissant at the Opera Café at the end of the square. Serv...Read More

Despite being a two hour drive from where we were staying, our guide book proclaimed ‘Montpellier is a great city’ in the very first sentence so we felt compelled to go. Apparently Montpellier is the fastest growing city in France and I can understand why. It’s close to the Mediterranean, seems to have good transport links and is a truly delightful place to walk around.

We parked smack in the centre, underneath the Place de la Comedie and emerging like cautious moles, we tried quickly and unsuccessfully to blend in with the locals. After our drive we were hungry and thirsty so we did the most tourist-like thing and had a coffee and croissant at the Opera Café at the end of the square. Service is a bit slow but the views are good - or would have been if construction hadn’t been going on around the Three Graces Fountain.

From here, we wandered up and down the shopping streets of Montpellier, of which there are many. We started with Rue des Etuves and Grand Rue Jean Moulin but quickly found ourselves in the narrow backstreets where independent retailers and fancy boutiques can be found. Amongst these lanes we stumbled upon numerous small plazas, home to cosy restaurants, colourful cafes and towering churches. We walked northwest to the churches of Saint-Roch, Sainte-Anne and onwards to Montpellier’s own Arc de Triomphe and La Promenade du Peyrou. The arch was erected in 1691 in honour of Louis XIV and provided the inspiration for its Parisian counterpart. It stands at the east end of the Peyrou promenade, which is the highest point in the city and therefore affords great views over the rooftops.

Just to the north of Rue Foch (which runs into la Promenade) are more alleyways and shaded plazas along which we found numerous dusty shops crammed with exorbitantly priced antiques. It’s worth continuing a little further north here to the impressive Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Montpellier. We didn’t go in but the unusual pointed towers, described in one article as looking like ‘rockets’, are worth the detour.

We turned back and found a lunch spot at the Sisters Café, one of three restaurants located on yet another plaza at the intersection of Rue de Vallat and Rue des Soeurs Noires.

Lunch al fresco seems to be mandatory for residents and visitors alike. Sisters Café jostles for outside space with its neighbours but serves up some great summers salads, pastas and attractive desserts.

After a lazy lunch in the sun we reluctantly got back on our feet and walked slowly back towards the Place de la Comedie. We walked up to Jardin du Champ de Mars but only skirted the southern edge of it before having to return to our car. Old timers played chess while young children raced around on the grass. I can only assume that people here are powered by solar energy. In my post-lunch state, the heat of the sun was starting to wear me out but the locals looked rather too fresh and lively for my liking. Sadly our time in the city had come to an end and I felt like we had barely scratched the surface.

Montpellier, the capital of the Languedoc Roussillon region, is a great city. The guidebook didn’t lie and I for one cannot recommend it enough. Read Less

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Le Sister's Cafe

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Restaurant | "Giant Salads at the Sister's Cafe"

Montpellier Photo - Le Sister's Cafe, Montpellier, France

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Deciding where to stop for lunch in Montpellier isn’t easy. Around every other corner a charming plaza awaits, usually with two or more restaurants advertising lunch specials, which frankly all sound good. After doing the rounds of countless cafes, we returned to the square at the corner of Rue des Soeurs Noires and Rue de Vallat. It was less noisy and busy than some of the larger squares but still seemed popular with less than a handful of outdoor tables being vacant. We settled on Le Sister’s Café, which somewhat unsurprisingly is staffed by women. Less laid back than the Opera Café, this operation was no-nonsense, and efficient. Fortunately we managed to get a table in the s...Read More

Deciding where to stop for lunch in Montpellier isn’t easy. Around every other corner a charming plaza awaits, usually with two or more restaurants advertising lunch specials, which frankly all sound good.

After doing the rounds of countless cafes, we returned to the square at the corner of Rue des Soeurs Noires and Rue de Vallat. It was less noisy and busy than some of the larger squares but still seemed popular with less than a handful of outdoor tables being vacant.

We settled on Le Sister’s Café, which somewhat unsurprisingly is staffed by women. Less laid back than the Opera Café, this operation was no-nonsense, and efficient. Fortunately we managed to get a table in the shade. Even at the end of April the midday sun was fiercely hot. Given the weather, I was in the mood for a salad so went for the intriguing goats cheese and ratatouille salad.

A basket of crusty baguette arrived, shortly followed by the salad, which filled a bowl twice the size of my head. My husband opted for a creamy rich pasta dish, which he quickly dispatched. My salad was exactly what it said on the tin: a bed of mixed lettuce topped with a warm, chunky ratatouille of tomatoes and celery. The ‘sisters’ then got a bit creative, balancing a thick ball of goats cheese on top of two baguette slices and framing them with lengths of carrot. If they had invented the dish over coffee that morning I wouldn’t have been surprised but it was tasty, fresh and filling and that was the main thing.

The only drawback to our overload of lunch carbs was that we had no room for dessert, which was a shame given the cakes we saw on display at Sister’s.

The tide of customers at Sister’s gradually washed out as people returned to their shops, studies and places of work. I think I would have been quite happy to pass the afternoon at Sister’s underneath the pine trees. If you can’t make it for lunch, it’s at least worth stopping by for coffee and cake and if you’re on your own, bring a good book and stay a while. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on July 3, 2010

Le Sister's Cafe
3 Rue Des Soeurs Noires
Montpellier, France 34000
+33 (0)4 6766 1595

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Teatro-Museo Dalí

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Attraction | "A Surreal Day Trip to Figueres "

Figueres, Spain Photo - Languedoc Roussillon, France

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About an hour and a half south of Les Jardins de Saint-Benoit Spa at Saint Laurent de Cabrerisse and in a different country is Figueres. It is a bustling, Spanish town with an attractive centre but the real draw for visiting is the Dali Theatre-Museum. Figueres is the birthplace of the inimitable Salvador Dali and for anyone staying in the south of France or north of Spain, his museum definitely deserves a visit for the building as well as the artwork. The former theatre was left in a state of ruin after being bombed during the Spanish civil war but thanks to the mayor of Figueres and Dali himself, the structure was saved and rebuilt as one of the most fantastic art galleries in the world....Read More

About an hour and a half south of Les Jardins de Saint-Benoit Spa at Saint Laurent de Cabrerisse and in a different country is Figueres. It is a bustling, Spanish town with an attractive centre but the real draw for visiting is the Dali Theatre-Museum. Figueres is the birthplace of the inimitable Salvador Dali and for anyone staying in the south of France or north of Spain, his museum definitely deserves a visit for the building as well as the artwork.

The former theatre was left in a state of ruin after being bombed during the Spanish civil war but thanks to the mayor of Figueres and Dali himself, the structure was saved and rebuilt as one of the most fantastic art galleries in the world.

The entrance on Gala-Salvador Dalí Square is fairly innocuous, doing little to prepare the eyes for the incredible visual explosion that awaits you in the courtyard and theatre stage areas, which are both behind the lobby area. Channeling Dali himself, the museum map recommends that visitors do not follow a preconceived route although there is one to follow should you wish. Set over four floors, the museum comprises 22 rooms and effortlessly incorporates the old burnt out theatre and a labyrinth of corridors and rooms displaying works of Dali, Antoni Pitxot, Evarist Valles along with other masters and lesser known artists.

The courtyard appears as a scene from a Dali dream. A black Cadillac centerpiece sits beneath an ornate column that is topped with an upturned boat crying emulsion blue tears. Circling the courtyard in an amphitheatre is an audience of tiered golden statuettes that look not unlike rows of Academy Awards in differing states of semaphore action. Walk into the Stage area and the stage is set with colossal pieces of artwork, all in tune with the theatrical surroundings. Light pours in through countless glass triangles overhead that make up the cupola dome. We visited on a clear sunny day but I would guess that the mood of the hall and the art changes depending on the weather.

Narrow hallways split off from the Stage and art is exhibited along the corridors and in smaller rooms. As on the canvas, Dali has managed to decorate the walls of the museum with sculptures, statues and surrealism. The place is full of surprises and it is easy to miss something. Doorways decked with corncobs and red velvet are transformed into gaping mouths, swallowing art lovers by the dozen. A steady queue shuffles forward in the Mae West Room to view the installation in all its glory through a glass eye. The pouty red lips, golden tresses and flaming nostrils can’t really be appreciated any other way so I definitely encourage visitors to join the queue.

There are too many highlights to mention but one for me was the Don Quijote de la Mancha series on one of the upper floors. Hung on a wall as black as tar in plain wooden frames, this may be Dali at his most restrained. However the illustrations are still bold in action and colour, firing the imagination of Don Quijote’s intrepid adventures across the central plateaus of Central Spain. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on July 3, 2010

Teatro-Museo Dalí
Gala-Salvador Dalí Square, 5
Figueres, Spain
+34 972 677 500

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