Calacoto & Apaña

On Counter-Intuitivity and Feng Shui

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San Miguel Church at Calacoto Photo - La Paz, Bolivia

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Rugged terrain may fold in strange angles and cause unexpected views. A sunset behind the Andean High Plateau causes a completely straight sunset line to advance through La Paz. Mount Illimani looks substantially bigger from the Andean High Plateau than from downtown La Paz, due to the much more details seen from the last. A few years ago, I met some friends from Montreal in La Paz and made an innocent comment on the social and geographical setup of the area; in order to make them believe my suspicious claim, I needed to take out a compass and prove my point.On Feng ShuiFeng shui is a Chinese aesthetics system claiming to use the laws of Heaven and Earth to improve life....Read More

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Salteneria El Hornito

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Restaurant | "On Vegetarian Opportunities"

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Having a vegetarian meal in La Paz - or South America - is not easy. "No meat, no good," is the attitude. Try having a decaf with no sugar while seating next to a denizen and you’ll meet an incontrollable attack of laughter; and if you don’t understand why, don’t even try asking.Thus, El Hornito (The Small Oven) was an unavoidable stop while in Calacoto. It serves regular empanadas as well, but it is remarkable for the vegetarian option. But I’m jumping ahead. "Empanadas" are probably the most popular snack in South America. The Bolivian varieties are highly local and feature several names as per their cooking method and fillings. "Salteña" refers to a baked turnover, which is usually fill...Read More

Having a vegetarian meal in La Paz - or South America - is not easy. "No meat, no good," is the attitude. Try having a decaf with no sugar while seating next to a denizen and you’ll meet an incontrollable attack of laughter; and if you don’t understand why, don’t even try asking.

Thus, El Hornito (The Small Oven) was an unavoidable stop while in Calacoto. It serves regular empanadas as well, but it is remarkable for the vegetarian option. But I’m jumping ahead. "Empanadas" are probably the most popular snack in South America. The Bolivian varieties are highly local and feature several names as per their cooking method and fillings. "Salteña" refers to a baked turnover, which is usually filled with potatoes and meat. The name means "from Salta," though as explained in the Mega-Tucumanas entry of this journals there is no direct connection between the facts. There is clear differentiation between chicken and beef salteñas; however, most people don’t even know the vegetarian option exists.

The oddity of this item plays into the hands of the freezing traveler. Seeking for hot food in La Paz is difficult; most denizens don’t care about the temperature the food is served and that results more often than not in lukewarm dishes. Combined with the cold climate, this is a promise for a bad experience. Yet, this can be solved in unexpected ways. Beef and chicken turnovers are very popular and are thus prepared beforehand. The customer pays at the counter, gets a "ficha," and then seats to wait for the turnover which usually appears within seconds.

Asking for the vegetarian option is different. Eyebrows are raised. A closer look at the foreign face is taken. The accent is analyzed. Only then the transaction is approved. "Another pasture-eating gringo had arrived," silently summarizes the attendant and then "vegetariana" is loudly shouted, so that everybody in the nearby mile would know a foreigner is visiting. The item is then picked up from a special altar and placed in the oven. Vegetarian turnovers are served piping hot.

A few minutes later, it arrives at the table. Small bowls of green olives and hot chilies are added nearby. Olives are rare here, most denizens think they are spicy (used in a derogatory way now, despite they hot llajua sauce regularly consumed here) and that they are weird. Everything different in South America is "raro" and "loco;" great, that means more goodies for pasture-eating gringos. Bless you for your food prejudices.

The first bite must be taken with care, holding the turnover vertically. This is important since Bolivian turnovers contain hot liquids that may spill one open. The vegetarian turnover is filled with potatoes, carrots (another unusual item in the local cuisine), broccoli (a miracle!) and other goodies. A high altitude miracle!

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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 15, 2010

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Sultan

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Restaurant | "On Gyros and Shawarmas"

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I did recently comment on the difficulties imposed by Middle Eastern cuisine on South Americans and the Spanish language. "Shawarma" looks funny in Spanish, and most locals would be unable to pronounce it correctly. There is no "sh" in Spanish. Moreover, many locals mispronounce "s" as a "sh," with no visible consequences, they are invariably understood. I commented on that to locals, and they didn’t even comprehend the claim. Moreover, Middle Eastern spicing is not accepted here. Salt and hot llajua are the only proper spices, everything else is automatically defined as odd. Considering this, the fact there is a small local chain specializing in shawarmas is a surprise. Their branches can...Read More

I did recently comment on the difficulties imposed by Middle Eastern cuisine on South Americans and the Spanish language. "Shawarma" looks funny in Spanish, and most locals would be unable to pronounce it correctly. There is no "sh" in Spanish. Moreover, many locals mispronounce "s" as a "sh," with no visible consequences, they are invariably understood. I commented on that to locals, and they didn’t even comprehend the claim. Moreover, Middle Eastern spicing is not accepted here. Salt and hot llajua are the only proper spices, everything else is automatically defined as odd.

Considering this, the fact there is a small local chain specializing in shawarmas is a surprise. Their branches can be found in the wealthier parts of town, and that includes Calacoto, which is reviewed in this journal. Even before my first visit, I knew some important adaptations have been made to the dish. Yet, I approached the counter, placed my order and sat in one of the few tables of the elongated and narrow establishment. Luckily, I found one that was not under the direct view of the two cameras in the place. I asked for the exact address of the establishment for the sake of this entry (addresses are often missing in Bolivian buildings), and the owner was brought from somewhere in the back. She didn’t know the address. "Wait a minute and I’ll find a receipt with the address," she told me and got busy with her purse. "Montenegro 1487," I heard shortly after.

Then, the star of this entry was put I front of me. The adaptations to local conditions were clear. First, it was being sold as "gyro," the Greek name. Then, the meat prepared was not lamb. The only available options were chicken and beef; "mixto" referred to a mix of these two. One look at the beef is enough to define it as belonging to the untouchable class; meaning the hungry traveler would invariably choose the winged variety.

Then, there is the issue of the bread. Shawarmas are often consumed within a large lafa, which is a thick and large pita bread native of Iraq, that spread over the entire Middle East. Here the lafa used is smallish and thin and is wrongly called "pita bread" or "Arab bread." Since it is thin, it often breaks apart due to the liquids of the salads, spreading everything on the metal tray wisely provided with the dish.

Finally, something is terribly wrong with the salads. The variety is small, there is neither hummus nor tahini and the spicy sauce used – the aji – is not spicy at all. The result is rather unlike the original, though if being measured as a healthy snack – high in proteins and veggies and low in carbohydrates, then it rates as one of the best snacks in town.

Another item of interest here – especially since it is related to other entries of this journal – are the "empanadas Arabes," Arabic turnovers, served by the same establishment. They appear in meat and cheese varieties. They have been shaped into unusual elongated shape and are filled with a tasteless mix of minced meat, or with a symbolic amount of cheese. None of them are recommended.

Yet, a healthy snack reminiscent of better places, who can oppose it?
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 15, 2010

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Mega-Tucumanas

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Restaurant | "Unexpected Turn"

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I was seeking for another proper item for this journal. I was standing at the upper end of Montenegro Street – Calacoto’s heart – when I spotted a small shop selling tucumanas. Mega-tucumanas to be exact. I knew them from downtown La Paz, where they are sold mainly in street stalls. The math was simple: they are tasty, served hot, the accompanying sauces are great and they are as local as it gets. Perfect!Soon I was taking pictures before ordering anything. The owner got obviously distressed and I rushed to hide my camera and to ask for a tucumana. They were kept hot under a strong light in a transparent plastic box. One was picked up, put on a paper napkin and given to me. I paid the 4 BO...Read More

I was seeking for another proper item for this journal. I was standing at the upper end of Montenegro Street – Calacoto’s heart – when I spotted a small shop selling tucumanas. Mega-tucumanas to be exact. I knew them from downtown La Paz, where they are sold mainly in street stalls. The math was simple: they are tasty, served hot, the accompanying sauces are great and they are as local as it gets. Perfect!

Soon I was taking pictures before ordering anything. The owner got obviously distressed and I rushed to hide my camera and to ask for a tucumana. They were kept hot under a strong light in a transparent plastic box. One was picked up, put on a paper napkin and given to me. I paid the 4 BOB it cost (slightly over half American dollar) and moved inside the shop, where the sauces were aligned on a narrow bar. Then I took a few close ups of my tucumana and the sauces. The next customer told on me to the owner, but now she said it was OK.

"Tucumana" is a strange name. In Spanish, it means "from Tucuman." Yet, Tucuman is not the Man of Tookoo, and there are not tucumanas in Tucuman. Probably, it was used at first as a marketing gimmick. "Hey, this CD was pirated in the USA," some may shout in a local market, implying that American merchandise is better. "Hey, this empanada is from Tucuman," others would claim in a similar approach. It’s difficult to say. Regardless history, in La Paz, you can eat tucumanas.

The term refers to fried turnovers. They are usually filled with a mix of potatoes and minced meat and are served hot. Then, the diner is supposed to add sauces at its top, eat a bit, add more sauce and then eat some more. Sauces are an important par of the dish.

Mega-tucumanas are recommended among all the tucumanas served in town due to their size (that’s why they are almost twice more expensive than other products) and due to the variety of sauces offered. The size is important, since small tucumanas allow very little room for the add-ons. The add-ons here are especially worthy. The stars are the liquid sauces: avocado, black olives and peanuts. Peanuts are native of the lowlands known as Chaco, near the Bolivian Amazonian Basin and are used in a variety of local foods. Their sauce is spicy and extraordinarily tasty. Avocados are popular here and exist in several varieties; their sauce is similar to the guacamole one. The black olives sauce is quite an original product of this brand and totally worth a dedicated trip. Beyond them, small salads are offered; tomatoes and cucumbers, and coleslaw are popular options. However, placing them atop the tucumana and then eating them is awkward; since no plates are offered, there is no easy way of consuming them.

Could one extrapolate the name of "tucumana," and ask for a "paceña" turnover (from La Paz) here? Try that and you’ll get a beer!
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Member Rating 3 out of 5 on June 15, 2010

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Looking on the Andean High Plateau from Above

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Apaña and the Andean High Plateau Photo - La Paz, Bolivia

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If looking at La Paz from its upper parts, let’s say from the Andean High Plateau rim in El Alto, the town seems to follow the Choqueyapu riverside downwards through the steep slopes. The downtown area features a few high buildings and is located halfway between the lower and upper parts. Then the buildings become smaller and disappear into the distance. The impressive Mount Illimani - one of the highest mountains in the Americas - puts a sharp stop to the view. A more careful look would reveal the terrain descends until certain point - River Calacoto - and from there southwards it raises again towards Mount ...Read More

If looking at La Paz from its upper parts, let’s say from the Andean High Plateau rim in El Alto, the town seems to follow the Choqueyapu riverside downwards through the steep slopes. The downtown area features a few high buildings and is located halfway between the lower and upper parts. Then the buildings become smaller and disappear into the distance. The impressive Mount Illimani - one of the highest mountains in the Americas - puts a sharp stop to the view. A more careful look would reveal the terrain descends until certain point - River Calacoto - and from there southwards it raises again towards Mount Illimani.

Despite all this being part of the same administrative area - La Paz Municipality - there is here a sharp geographical transition from the plateau to the Andes Range, and with it an extraordinary opportunity for travelers. The most impressive views of the city are counter-intuitively offered from the Illimani slopes. In fact, it is possible to climb there above the Andean High Plateau; however, even if lacking the resources and time needed for that, awesome views can be enjoyed during this easy morning trip to the city outskirts.

Strictly speaking, all this tour takes part within the metropolitan area, thus there are many ways of reaching it. For those worried about traveling there, then Coca Travels offers guided tours (as of June 2010 they are the only agency offering them). For the brave, the best is to take any minivan marked Apaña, or those marked Chasquipampa from the San Miguel Church, on Ballivian corner 21st Street, the main junction in Calacoto. If taking a minivan to Chasquipampa, stay with it until its final stop, or even better, until the sharp curve just before it. (Public vehicles in Bolivia stop wherever the passenger wants, even with short notice.) There, awesome views of La Paz await; take a few pictures and from the curve, take any minivan to Apaña (Calacoto-Chasquipampa costs 1 BOB, Calacoto to Apaña costs 1.5 BOB). Apaña is nearby, beyond the frightening looking cliffs on the backside of Chasquipampa. There is only one stop there, at the main curve of the road within the village.

Just before entering Apaña, there is a small T-junction worth of notice. The public transport turns here to the right and formally enters the Mount Illimani area; the mountain’s peak is still sixty kilometers away. If continuing straight through the junction, through the police box, then Mount Mururata and the Zongo Valley are reached after a tortuous way. Both are worth a visit, but there are better ways for reaching them, especially through public transport leaving from the Ballivian Plaza in El Alto.

In the way from Chasquipampa to Apaña, and in fact in all of this area, paved roads are replaced by old pressed-stone roads prepared in earlier centuries for the sake of horses. Apaña is little more than a village along an important regional road; it offers just basic eateries, no accommodations and no proper streets. Yet, the sights are imposing. First on the local level; it offers the opportunity to see a still traditional Bolivian village, which in fact is part of Metropolitan La Paz. The impressive cliffs surrounding it are practically vertical. Mount Illimani is so close that cannot be seen, but towards the north the sights are magical. But not only that, the mountain slopes descend to Calacoto and then rise sharply, offering views of downtown La Paz main buildings and then the rim of the Andean High Plateau that seems to run all along the horizon. I’ve been obviously unable to make justice to this beauty in my pictures, but simply the titanic size of this view cannot be easily transferred to pictures.

It may not be the best advertised attraction in the area, but it’s for certain the most beautiful one. Run there before skyscrapers obstruct the views.
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