La Paz Journals

Calacoto & Apaña

Best of IgoUgo

A travel journal to La Paz by SeenThat

Apaña and the Andean High Plateau Photo, La Paz, Bolivia More Photos
Quote: On the southern and wealthier parts of La Paz and the Mount Illimani lower slopes.

On Counter-Intuitivity and Feng Shui

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Story/Tip

San Miguel Church at Calacoto Photo, La Paz, Bolivia
Quote:
Rugged terrain may fold in strange angles and cause unexpected views. A sunset behind the Andean High Plateau causes a completely straight sunset line to advance through La Paz. Mount Illimani looks substantially bigger from the Andean High Plateau than from downtown La Paz, due to the much more details seen from the last. A few years ago, I met some friends from Montreal in La Paz and made an innocent comment on the social and geographical setup of the area; in order to make them believe my suspicious claim, I needed to take out a compass and prove my point.On Feng ShuiFeng shui is a Chinese aesthetics system claiming to use the laws of Heaven and Earth to improve life....Read More

Salteneria El Hornito

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Restaurant | "On Vegetarian Opportunities"

El Hornito Photo, La Paz, Bolivia
Quote:
Having a vegetarian meal in La Paz - or South America - is not easy. "No meat, no good," is the attitude. Try having a decaf with no sugar while seating next to a denizen and you’ll meet an incontrollable attack of laughter; and if you don’t understand why, don’t even try asking.Thus, El Hornito (The Small Oven) was an unavoidable stop while in Calacoto. It serves regular empanadas as well, but it is remarkable for the vegetarian option. But I’m jumping ahead. "Empanadas" are probably the most popular snack in South America. The Bolivian varieties are highly local and feature several names as per their cooking method and fillings. "Salteña" refers to a baked turnover, which is usually fill...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 15, 2010

Sultan

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Restaurant | "On Gyros and Shawarmas"

Sultan Photo, La Paz, Bolivia
Quote:
I did recently comment on the difficulties imposed by Middle Eastern cuisine on South Americans and the Spanish language. "Shawarma" looks funny in Spanish, and most locals would be unable to pronounce it correctly. There is no "sh" in Spanish. Moreover, many locals mispronounce "s" as a "sh," with no visible consequences, they are invariably understood. I commented on that to locals, and they didn’t even comprehend the claim. Moreover, Middle Eastern spicing is not accepted here. Salt and hot llajua are the only proper spices, everything else is automatically defined as odd. Considering this, the fact there is a small local chain specializing in shawarmas is a surprise. Their branches can...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on June 15, 2010

Mega-Tucumanas

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Restaurant | "Unexpected Turn"

Mega-Tucumanas Photo, La Paz, Bolivia
Quote:
I was seeking for another proper item for this journal. I was standing at the upper end of Montenegro Street – Calacoto’s heart – when I spotted a small shop selling tucumanas. Mega-tucumanas to be exact. I knew them from downtown La Paz, where they are sold mainly in street stalls. The math was simple: they are tasty, served hot, the accompanying sauces are great and they are as local as it gets. Perfect!Soon I was taking pictures before ordering anything. The owner got obviously distressed and I rushed to hide my camera and to ask for a tucumana. They were kept hot under a strong light in a transparent plastic box. One was picked up, put on a paper napkin and given to me. I paid the 4 BO...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on June 15, 2010

Apaña and the Andean High Plateau Photo, La Paz, Bolivia
Quote:
If looking at La Paz from its upper parts, let’s say from the Andean High Plateau rim in El Alto, the town seems to follow the Choqueyapu riverside downwards through the steep slopes. The downtown area features a few high buildings and is located halfway between the lower and upper parts. Then the buildings become smaller and disappear into the distance. The impressive Mount Illimani - one of the highest mountains in the Americas - puts a sharp stop to the view. A more careful look would reveal the terrain descends until certain point - River Calacoto - and from there southwards it raises again towards Mount ...Read More

About the Writer

SeenThat

SeenThat
Tel Aviv, Israel