Montreal 2010

Toronto to Montreal

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Waiting for the rideshare Photo - Toronto, Ontario

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We travel from Toronto to Montreal using a cash-in-hand mini bus service (30 CAD per person).

On the bus are four Muslim boys from a boarding school travelling home to Montreal, a slightly smelly but very interesting human righst activist and guerilla gardener with an imac, briefcase full of eco-zines and two plastic buckets of assorted junk, and a very pleasant young bloke from Lebanon.

The ride is along a bleak but hypnotically compelling landscape of leafless birch, odd fir tree and Finnish-looking wooden cabins.

We arrive at an end of one of Montreal's metro lines and make our way to the Jazz B&B.

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Montreal impressions

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Montreal, pretty much as expected, appears more European than Toronto. It's not just the fact that it's very French spoken, but also the old town – Vieux Montreal – with some buildings dating as far back as 17th century, and quite a few from the 18th century. It's also the lively and cosmopolitan area of Plateau Mont Royal, with the varied mixture of ethnic – mostly European – delis, restaurants and other stores, on the background of pretty convincingly French patisserie, boulangerie and charcuterie, and that is despite the fact that the best-known Quebecois contribution to cuisine is poutine, a quintessentially fast-foody combination of chips, squeaky cheese and gravy, about which the Canadians are ...Read More

Montreal, pretty much as expected, appears more European than Toronto. It's not just the fact that it's very French spoken, but also the old town – Vieux Montreal – with some buildings dating as far back as 17th century, and quite a few from the 18th century. It's also the lively and cosmopolitan area of Plateau Mont Royal, with the varied mixture of ethnic – mostly European – delis, restaurants and other stores, on the background of pretty convincingly French patisserie, boulangerie and charcuterie, and that is despite the fact that the best-known Quebecois contribution to cuisine is poutine, a quintessentially fast-foody combination of chips, squeaky cheese and gravy, about which the Canadians are as snobby as the Brits about pork scratchings. The coffee might be the standard North American dishwater, but the pastries, sausages and bread are all very Parisian.

But there is also shabbiness about Montreal, with a noticeably higher number of the visibly homeless and down-and-out people, including some sleeping rough, around the centre and in the metro. Toronto was big-city-lights-slick, with relentlessly smiley, friendly people who pretty much all looked prosperous: from heavily painted, hijabed, dripping with gold Asian mothers to preppy, blond, be-suited, chiselled-jawed Anglo-Saxons.

Montreal appears less American, less slick, more European, more humane, perhaps. More grumpy, too. People on the Metro (more crowded than Toronto's subway system) are similar to those on the London tube. Girls wear skirts (and are noticeably prettier).

Architecturally, though, the distinct Francophone, cosmopolitan, old-world core is surrounded by a very New-world sprawl. We stay with a lovely family in Laval – apparently the second largest city in Quebec, but unknown to most visitors – on a suburban estate that has no pavements, tenuous public transport connections and shopping areas in which you need to drive from one big-box store to another.
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Jazz Hotel

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Hotel | "Victorian Mansion B&B"

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We stayed one night in the Jazz Hotel after travelling from Toronto to Montreal. The hotel is located within five minutes walk from Berri-UCAM Metro station and in the lively if somehow shabby Latin Quarter, within walking distance of Old Montreal and China Town (as well as the red light district). It's not the smartest of locations but not bad either, and very central. What matters, though, is what's inside. Jazz, despite having "hotel" in its name is really a Bed and Breakfast, and does not operate 24 hour reception, but the owners/staff are available 24 hours a day only a buzzer call away.It is located in an old Victorian town house and has a few rooms (I believe there is ei...Read More

We stayed one night in the Jazz Hotel after travelling from Toronto to Montreal. The hotel is located within five minutes walk from Berri-UCAM Metro station and in the lively if somehow shabby Latin Quarter, within walking distance of Old Montreal and China Town (as well as the red light district). It's not the smartest of locations but not bad either, and very central.

What matters, though, is what's inside. Jazz, despite having "hotel" in its name is really a Bed and Breakfast, and does not operate 24 hour reception, but the owners/staff are available 24 hours a day only a buzzer call away.

It is located in an old Victorian town house and has a few rooms (I believe there is eight) whose décor draws inspiration from Montreal's French history. Just about this side of twee and fussy (occasionally straying to the other side, but in a charming way), the room we stayed in was of reasonable size and comfortable. It had to vast beds (a single and a double, both very high) with comfortable if rather firm mattresses), a small shabby-chic desk and a wardrobe. It was an attractive, functional room and it did what it was supposed to do, which is to provide good night's sleep. There was also a small sofa, from which we used cushions to make up a pallet fro our younger child.

The bathroom was small (as one would expect in such a conversion) but pretty and functional, with a decent shower (all showers in Canada are decent by UK standards).There was also free wifi Internet available for guests and it worked well.

Breakfast was included in the price, served in the basement dining room. This was of a very good B&B quality, though not exceptional. The highlight was excellent eggs, almost omelette, cooked with pieces of cheese and herbs and served with potatoes. For those who don't eat eggs, there was standard bacon, cereals, fruit and toast choice. Coffee was the standard Canadian feeble and tasteless brew, but this is such a norm that it can't be really complained about.

The service we received was polite, informative and helpful, though not exceptionally friendly. We were also able to store our luggage in the lobby for a day after we checked out.

We paid 125 CAD for the triple room with breakfast, which was a good value for the location, quality and service we received. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 12, 2010

Jazz Hotel
1216 Rue Saint-Hubert
Montreal, Quebec H2L 3Y7
(514) 510-6893

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Pointe-à-Callière Museum

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Attraction | "Where Montreal Started"

Pointe-à-Callière Museum Photo - Pointe-à-Callière Museum, Montreal, Quebec

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Pointe-a-Calliere is Montreal's history and archaeology museum, a relatively new (less than 20 years old) but already well established institution located in a modern building designed by Eperon in Place Royale, in an area occupied previously by a customs' house. The original building suffered structural problems and was demolished to make room for a parking lot in the 50s'! The excavated foundations of the customs' house now form the largest part of the lowest level of the Pointe-a-Calliere. But there is more to Pointe-a-Calliere. It's in the exact spot where the first European colonists settled when the city was founded by Maisonneuve in 1642, and it was the site of the 1701 Peace of Montreal, wher...Read More

Pointe-a-Calliere is Montreal's history and archaeology museum, a relatively new (less than 20 years old) but already well established institution located in a modern building designed by Eperon in Place Royale, in an area occupied previously by a customs' house. The original building suffered structural problems and was demolished to make room for a parking lot in the 50s'! The excavated foundations of the customs' house now form the largest part of the lowest level of the Pointe-a-Calliere. But there is more to Pointe-a-Calliere. It's in the exact spot where the first European colonists settled when the city was founded by Maisonneuve in 1642, and it was the site of the 1701 Peace of Montreal, where some forty tribes gathered to sign the treaty.

The archaeology finds include, in addition to the foundation of the 19th century building, remains of the city's first cemetery and more. The excavation display underground is moderately interesting, with informative panels which tie each of the locations or finds to the history of Montreal, and by extension, to the fascinating and not very well known of the French colonisation of North America which really brings to life what is essentially a fairly drab collection of stones.

The building itself, in addition to the interesting architecture, has a good lookout point on the top floor, allowing for good views of the St Lawrence, the Old Port and the Old Montreal and beyond all the way to downtown.

Just past the ticket desk there is a large auditorium which is a venue for an excellent audio-video show projected onto a large screen and ruins on the level below. It deals with the history of Montreal in a perhaps rather simplified but very engaging and informative manner.

Pointe-a-Calliere is well known for its temporary exhibitions. During our visit there was one of Quebecois folk stories, illustrated by colourful naïve paintings of the ethnologist who collected the stories. Most space was devoted to the legend of the flying canoe in its many versions (there was even a flying school bus full of naughty children),but numerous other legends were also covered, including modern urban myths like crocodiles in the sewers.

All the displays we saw at Pointe-a-Calliere were of very high quality: the objects displayed might have been not exactly iconic, but the manner of their presentation and the context in which they were put was very well realised. Pointe-a-Calliere is modern museum craft (is there such a thing?) at its best.

Individual entrance to Pointe-a-Calliere costs 14 CAD, which is rather expensive unless you are specifically interested in one of the temporary exhibitions there. We entered on a family ticket for 30 CAD for four which was decent enough value for the over two hours we spent inside.
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Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 12, 2010

Pointe-à-Callière Museum
350 Place Royale
Montreal, Quebec H2Y 3Y5
+1 514 872 9150

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Mount Royal and Mount Royal Park

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Attraction | "Squirrels up the Mountain"

Mont (Mount) Royal Photo - Mount Royal and Mount Royal Park, Montreal, Quebec

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Mount Royal is a hill that raises in the middle of Montreal and after which the city was in fact named. Natives call it "the Mountain" despite the fact that it's less than 150m high, but this reflects its importance in national psyche as much as the actual elevation. It is now covered by a park (or rather tamed woodland, designed in the 1870's by the same man who designed the New York's Central Park), criss-crossed with walking and cycling paths, with some water features and winter sports facilities, and inhabited by hundreds of squirrels. As a park, it's a good walking area and if you don't feel like climbing up, there is a bus that goes up "The Mountain" via the car-park near the top, b...Read More

Mount Royal is a hill that raises in the middle of Montreal and after which the city was in fact named. Natives call it "the Mountain" despite the fact that it's less than 150m high, but this reflects its importance in national psyche as much as the actual elevation. It is now covered by a park (or rather tamed woodland, designed in the 1870's by the same man who designed the New York's Central Park), criss-crossed with walking and cycling paths, with some water features and winter sports facilities, and inhabited by hundreds of squirrels.

As a park, it's a good walking area and if you don't feel like climbing up, there is a bus that goes up "The Mountain" via the car-park near the top, but the main reason for the tourist to visit Mount Royal is the view.

There are two major lookouts on Mount Royal, the main one known as Kondiaronk Belvedere, looking south towards the river and another known as the Camillien-Houde belvedere which gives views to the east and the Olympic Park.

Beyond the semi-circular plaza of the Kondiaronk Belvedere raises a large structure known simply as the Chalet, or Kondiaronk Chalet, named after the Huron chief who signed a peace accord with the French in 1701. The chalet was built as part of public works initiated during the depression to provide jobs for the unemployed. It's a large structure constructed of wooden beams, decorated with what seems like heraldic beasts but which prove to be squirrels on closer examination, and there are paintings inside depicting the history of the city.

It is an amazing place, not so much because of its architectural beauties (though it's quite pleasing to the eye) but because this vast, empty space remains heated and manned throughout the year, providing shelter from the elements for the people walking in the park and using the lookout, as well as toilet facilities and some information. There is no commercial concessions inside, apart from (at the time of writing in 2010) a hot drinks' vending machine, so it's pure public service – and so welcomed in the Quebec winters. Quebec is a major producer of hydro-electricity and it shows in this welcome disregard for frugality!

In the summer, the plaza is a venue for many cultural events, but it's worth visiting at all times of the year as the lookout provides unsurpassed views over the city, past the high-rise skyline of its central business district, towards and beyond the St Lawrence River – and all for free. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on November 14, 2010

Mount Royal and Mount Royal Park
West of Downtown
Montreal, Quebec H3H 1A2
514 843 8240

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Montreal Biodome

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Attraction | "Wildlife is Better than Racing Bikes"

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Biodome is a part of Montreal's Olympic Village and in fact has been set up in what use to be the Velodrome, a bicycle-helmet shaped building next to the grand stadium with the Montreal landmark inclined tower. The whole Olympic Village and the Stadium in particular was, apparently something of a folly or a white elephant, and the city is still paying for it thirty years since the construction. However, the Biodome is an almost unqualified success.We visit on what is probably weather-wise the worst day we had in the four weeks we have spent in Canada (at the time of writing of this review). The temperature just below freezing and a sleet and hail drizzle is falling to freeze immediately on...Read More

Biodome is a part of Montreal's Olympic Village and in fact has been set up in what use to be the Velodrome, a bicycle-helmet shaped building next to the grand stadium with the Montreal landmark inclined tower. The whole Olympic Village and the Stadium in particular was, apparently something of a folly or a white elephant, and the city is still paying for it thirty years since the construction. However, the Biodome is an almost unqualified success.

We visit on what is probably weather-wise the worst day we had in the four weeks we have spent in Canada (at the time of writing of this review). The temperature just below freezing and a sleet and hail drizzle is falling to freeze immediately on contact with just about anything. The tree branches are covered in transparent sheaths of ice, and a cold wind is blowing that chills one to the bone.

It's not a weather in which brutalist 70's concrete architecture works very well: the whole complex seems and feels like some post-industrial wasteland. This type of architecture needs young crowds and sunny skies to make it appealing (or at least bearable).

Once inside the Biodome, there are people, light and - most crucially - warmth and we spend enjoyable two and half hours there. Biodome is a unique combination of indoor zoo and a greenhouse, filling the space with flora and fauna typical for different ecosystems.

The whole space is divided into several zones: tropical rainforest, boreal forest, St Lawrence marine environments and Polar. There is a huge range of foliage as well as surprising number of animals living freely in each of the zones, and altogether it looks (and feels) pretty convincing. The tropical zone has a lot of rainforest plants as well as a number of birds (including very decorative parrots and macaws), reptiles (cayman!) and mammals (sloth, some attractive monkeys and more). I liked the boreal forest section a lot, with its cool air, trees just green in the first spring shoots and a large pool with some playful otters.

The marine ecosystem was also pretty good, with a selection of many fish (including huge sturgeon) in a large aquarium. But the highlight of the Biodome was undoubtedly the polar section, illuminatingly contrasting and comparing the Arctic and the Antarctic and the puffins and the penguins. Penguins win hands down, and you can see them walking, standing (they do a lot of standing, it seems) and after seemingly clumsy tumbles into the water, gracefully swimming. The polar section is behind glass, so one doesn't have to face sub-zero temperatures.

The entrance ticket costs 16.50 CAD, there are also combination deals available with the Stadium Tower or with the Insectarium and Botanic Gardens (we got the latter, which costs 28.50 CAD).

The whole complex is easily reachable by public transport (subway and a number of buses) and all in all, the Biodome is very enjoyable and pretty educational, and very worth visiting, especially if you have child with you, but I would recommend it even for adults on their own.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 6, 2010

Montreal Biodome
4777 Pierre-de-Coubertin Avenue
Montreal H1V 1B3
(514) 868-3000

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Montreal Insectarium

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Attraction | "Fluttering Jewels"

Otters in Biodome Photo - Montreal Insectarium, Montreal, Quebec

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We visited the Insectarium as part of a joint trip with the Biodome and the Botanic Gardens. It's a medium-sized museum dedicated to insects in all format and sizes (there is a small arachnids' gallery too). There are live insects, from giant cockroaches to stick insects to bees as well as very many dead ones (particularly a wonderful collection of butterflies) pinned in cases, divided into various regions of the world. I was particularly impressed by the exhibition space dedicated to social insects, with excellent, interesting, informative and illuminating displays on various aspects of collective life of ants, bees and wasps. There are hands-on stations (though you don't get to handle li...Read More

We visited the Insectarium as part of a joint trip with the Biodome and the Botanic Gardens. It's a medium-sized museum dedicated to insects in all format and sizes (there is a small arachnids' gallery too). There are live insects, from giant cockroaches to stick insects to bees as well as very many dead ones (particularly a wonderful collection of butterflies) pinned in cases, divided into various regions of the world.

I was particularly impressed by the exhibition space dedicated to social insects, with excellent, interesting, informative and illuminating displays on various aspects of collective life of ants, bees and wasps. There are hands-on stations (though you don't get to handle live bees) and locations where you can see and hear live swarms. This was definitely the highlight of the Insectarium.

It is all housed in a modern (insect-shaped) building on two levels. There is no catering facilities but there is a gift shop.

In addition to the Insectarium, the same ticket covers the Botanical Gradens (which were somehow unaproachable as the weather was decidedly dreadful and it was hard to cross between buildings in the driving rain which froze as soon as it landed on something). In the middle of the Gardens is a number of greenhouses, pretty good in themselves with a good display of various plant ecosystems. But the highlight of our visit to the greenhouses (and in all honesty a better if a somewhat less educational experience than the Insectarium) was the exhibition (if this is the right word) in one of the greenhouses entitled "Butterflies go free".

A large space planted with tropical rainforest flora was filled (literally, filled) with what must have been hundreds of beautiful butterflies: amazingly beautiful, fluttering jewels of saphhire blue, emerald green and all shades of yellow and red.

There were also some educational displays, and members of staff showing and explaining butterflies, but the main joy was in walking around or sitting on the bench and just observing the creatures! This was definitelya highlight of our Botanic Gardens/Insectarium visit and made the bone-freezing rain during the breif but painful walk from the Biodome to the Gardens worthwhile.

Individual tickets covering Insectarium and the Gardens cost 14 CAD (16.50 CAD in high season). The "nature package" with Biodome costs 28.50 CAD and is very much a better deal. I think it's only worth paying for a separate ticket in the warmer months, when the Gardes are in full bloom.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on April 12, 2010

Montreal Insectarium
4581 Rue Sherbrooke Est
Montreal, Quebec
(514) 872-1400

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