Ubud - unforgettable haven

Ubud is Bali's highlight. If you're there, then you have arrived because anything you do here will be accompanied by a sense of wonder, spirituality even if you've never had it, serenity as I've never encountered anywhere else and a joy for waking up each morning despite the downpours.

The open market on Monkey Road is a place that can take you hours to negotiate as there are alleys, and steps leading up and down, and it seems the stores choke each other with merchandise. Attending a Legong dance performance is something you must do; they have them in Ubud on a regular basis and you can pick up a brochure that tells you when and where. Jalan Raya is one of the main drags as well, and as you head north, it becomes a shopper's dream as wholesale factories line the street on both sides. It's impossible to see it all, and we only had 3 days in Ubud out of 12. Our hosts took us to dinner at Bebek and that's a great place for dinner if you like grilled duck. And the absolute greatest highlight was the place we stayed at: the Tjampuhan hotel and spa resort.

Quick Tips:

If you're going to go to Bali and you're coming from the States, stay at least a week in Ubud. Unless you're a surfer and must ride the waves at Kuta Beach daily, this is a far better representation of Bali than any tourist resort in the southern tip of the island. Food is relatively inexpensive here, so bring to buy local crafts because you'll want to. For istance, the tea and coffee services which are made of coconut shell are irresistible; I have a set of 8 with a teapot and the madness persuaded me to get matching teaspoons, serving spoon and a huge serving fork. If you need furniture, you will be floored at what you can get here. The worksmanship is excellent (depending where you go)and you can make arrangements with a shipping company to get the stuff over to the US. If you are not pressed for time, ship by ocean freight otherwise it will cost you double your investment to ship by air.

Best Way To Get Around:

Once you arrive in Ubud, you really don't need a car. You can hire a driver for an hour, or half a day, and they are available on any street corner. Walking is best when you're on the main roads where the shops and restaurants are, as you'll want to see everything you come by. Read More on Bali Trip

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Ubud - Unquenchable Thirst

Tuban - Gateway to Bali

Bali By Bus

Regal. And rightly so, as this used to be a prince''s residence centuries ago and was turned into a hotel. It is a well-hidden secret actually, and our friends and suppliers in Ubud really did not want us to reveal this place to many people. The Tjampuhan Hotel which lies on the banks of Oos river was mentioned and we decided to drop in and check it out for ourselves. The registration area was nothing short of breathtaking. There were no windows; openness everywhere allowing us to look into an eternity of green as far as the eye could see. When rain threatened to wet the overstuffed sofas nearest to the elements, they were warded off by bamboo mats that were rolled down from the ceilings. We were given huge hats as selecting a room would entail going outside and climbing sinewy stone steps and walking narrow paths bordered by the most magnificent flora you could imagine. Even in the rain, it was ethereal.

Each room bears the name of a god or goddess. The architecture is quite traditional and every room enjoys a veranda set outside the double doors. There you can find settees where you can relax and just get lost in nature. All beds are made to resemble altars. Also, frangipanis or other blooms are tucked into the folds of the beds. There is a writing desk, 2 armchairs and table by the makeshift enormous window that never closes, ample closet space, nightables, and a very spacious bathroom. Every last detail is created to ensure your comfort and spiritual well being. Lotions, shampoos and the like are stored in small clay or earthenware jars. Jasmine is the predominant fragrance, and if you like, you can order massage room service. More details on that later. Meals are served on an upper floor, buffet style and are included in the price. Tropical fruit abounds; banana pancakes, the traditional goreng noodles, assorted breads and cakes, tea (Indonesian black tea is a must if you''re into tea).

We did not plan to eat at Lotus; we just happened on it. This was during one of the several foot excursions that Chuck and I embarked on while in Ubud. You cannot appreciate the beauty of the restaurant until you are well inside. We were there for lunch. It's quite busy and informal. We were seated right in front of a huge lotus pond, with a temple sitting atop a brick wall. On our right hand side (picture this, because the restaurant has no back wall) we have a craftsman hammering away at something he's creating.

The menu includes the native goreng dishes (vegetable fried noodles), different satais (those are safe to eat at reputable restaurants; be careful if you land at a self-serve type of eatery). A number of creations to tantalize the palate, but we were ensured by our servers that none would burn the roof of our palates.

We are both gazing at this expanse of lotus floating on tranquil water; even though it's cloudy, it's an amazing vista to behold. You can have Balinese Kopi (coffee) if you wish, or end your meal with tea. Chuck sampled and approved the local beer. By Western standards, the service is quite slow, but if you are in a hurry, get off the island. We are sharing our appetizers, something very similar to the Indian samosas.

Chuck seems to have lost all his inhibitions about local fare, and is no longer sniffing his food. Although we had been warned not to eat raw salads, the salad they serve us is crackling fresh. Again, exercise caution and be more careful when patronizing off the beaten paths warungs (cafés). The decor at Lotus is very tropical and the tablecloths are white with green and red flora. My memories of Lotus Café are less about the food and more about the locale.

I read about Wayan's Café on internet bulletin boards while I was gathering information for this trip. The name came up very often as one of the best places to eat in Ubud, and that's an understatement. Aside from being one of the best restaurants in Ubud, the decor of this place is almost surreal. When you enter the "dining area", you are actually making your way through a forest, and the garden beds surround eating areas; some are on the floor with pillows, and others are Western style with caned chairs and tables. We chose the floor version as it looked so much more inviting. We had young servers tending to our needs; the food was served in beautiful porcelain containers or banana leaves. It was hard to concentrate on either the food or the atmosphere as both provided an overwhelming experience.

They say that this is one of the oldest cafes in Ubud. It opened in 1977 by Wayan Kelepon as a small warung; in 1987 Wayan, the owner of this cafe, decided to expand her growing business and she is reputable enough to have earned reviews in major guide books, the Jakarta Post, Garuda Inflight magazine, Cathay Pacific Discovery magazine, Food and Wine, and Bon Appetit. Her "Death By Chocolate" cake has a following. We went native and had the warm black rice with coconut milk, and that was divine. You can see in the photos how beautiful the presentation is. You MUST stop and eat here if you are in Ubud.

Although some Legong dances are staged in hotels for tourists, it's best to see an authentic rendition in Ubud where they have performances every Monday and Sunday nights at 7:30pm at the Ubud Palace.

The performance takes place outside the palace with drapes covering the open walls so as to ensure privacy. It's a first come first serve - white folding chairs seats which are very uncomfortable. They are positioned in front of the palace door where a stage has been set. To the right and left of the stage is the gamelan orchestra.

Gamelan is the basis of Balinese music and is so crucial that the name is given to the entire orchestra. It is mainly percussion, and I found it irritating at first as it sounded like a cacaphony of pots and pans. The men in the ensemble have hammers with which they hit xylophones and are accompanied by 2 flutists. There are no words, although traditionally, there is a narrator explaining the story.

Every Balinese dance has an element of religion in it: the purpose may be to welcome, appease or visit the Gods. The young girls who perform the Legong dance are between the ages of 8 and 12; they are trained at 5, and are removed from dancing when they begin to menstruate, as they are considered impure. The dance represents the epitomy of grace and femininity: the clothing is vibrant in color and almost always gilded; frangipanni buds may adorn the head or other parts of the face; the eyebrows are painted in black, the face powdered, and a white dot is placed on the forehead.

It is entrancing to watch the incredible control they exercise over their muscles; knees are always bent; torso is bending one way or the other but never in line with the rest of the body; the hands are the most mesmerizing: as the arms move up and about, the fingers are doing a dance of their own. They can make individual pairs of fingers flutter simultaneously! At the same time, the eyes are darting from left to right. As the music quickens, the dancers put their bodies to the test of discipline and come through beautifully. At one point, they exit and the barong enters, and he is quite frightening actually. He is there to chase the evil spirits and he goes into his own type of ceremonious movements, again complimented by the peals of the orchestra. I found the female dancers much more appealing and fascinating. Their ability to arch their wrists and bend their fingers back is uncanny. Naturally, I didn't understand the story until I read about the history of Legong and other dances native to Indonesia. However, you need not know the story to appreciate the dazzle of this dance. There are many areas on the net where you can locate schedules of such performances if you are contemplating Bali as a destination. Golink.

On the menu of blessings at the Tjampuhan Hotel is in-room massage service. When we were there it was $40/hour per person, including the jasmine tea at the end. I convinced Chuck to go for it. We had already been initiated when our guide took us to a day spa in Sanur beach and we tasted 30 minutes of bliss for $10.00! This promised to take us to even greater heights and we eagerly anticipated the arrival of our masseuses.

Two women were sent to our room with platters in their hands, presumably holding all of the materials needed for this ritual. There is no room for modesty with Balinese massage so I was told to remove my sari and lay on my stomach. Chuck was instructed to do the same, except he didn't wear a sari. They had small earthenware jars that contained jasmine oil, and when they removed the lid, the scent started to tease my nostrils. They never pour the oil directly on your skin, but rather warm it in their hands and begin the magical rubbing and kneading. They start at the feet and work their way up, the motion always sweeping toward the heart. No a single square inch of skin is left out; I had sensations in places I didn't know existed.

Aroma is an essential part of this ritual, as it has a very soothing and calming effect on the nervous system. Thirty minutes into the session, you are to flip over so they can work on the front part. They do cover the pubic area with a small towel so they can work around it. I couldn't ask them where they learned this art, or how long they had been practicing it, as they did not speak English. I think Chuck and I exchanged a word or two at most during the entire session as he was as absorbed into his sensations. When they are finished, they give you an opportunity to throw something on, and then present you with a wonderful cup of warm jasmine tea. Both women were more than happy to oblige for a souvenir photo. Whatever you do when you're here, don't forego the massage; it's addictive.