The Sacred and Majestic of Catalonia

Montserrat, which means "serrated mountain", is not part of a range but a single 1236-meter high mountain peak. The monastery compound, located slightly over half-way up the mountain's side, not only makes for a spectacular destination with great photo opportunities, but also an abudance of hiking trails with views on a clear day said to be as far as the Pyrenees and the island of Mallorca.

A 12th century wooden carving statue of the Black Virgin is Montserrat's trademark which draws most tourists and pilgrims evident by the endless lines of those who wait to see, touch her. But there are many other smaller "hidden finds" of art and architecture around the monastery complex worth uninterrupted viewing without the wait.

For those arriving by train, the cable car ride up the mountain gives 25 riders at a time a bird's eye view of the area.

Last of the highlights, but certainly not least, is the close proximity to the city of Barcelona: a bigger and better bonus unto itself. Read my "If I had to live in Europe" journal describing this great city.

Quick Tips:

I visited here early on a Monday two days after Christmas and wasn't expecting the throngs of people I encountered! Arrive as early as possible and still don't expect to beat the crowds. If there's a downfall to Montserrat, it's that the area is very compact and overrun with tourists, all but creating a frenzied three-ring circus atmosphere that, in due perspective, looks like an anthill from further up the mounain on Geroni Trail. And even with that, there's still no denying a sacred, reverant feeling.

For being a monastery and a Holy place, you might also be tempted to question how thoroughly they've learned to make a peseta. Still, it was one of the best, worth-my-time "Tourist Traps" I've ever visited.

Plan to dress warmer than you would on level ground since the higher elevation and winds make temperatures quite cooler. Especially if you plan on doing any hiking or mountain climbing, wear sturdy, comfortable shoes/boots. Steep trails were also treacherous in places covered with small loose stones great for slipping or turning ankles on; especially when heading downhill.

Best Way To Get Around:

If staying in Barcelona, the most convenient way to Montserrat is catching the FGC suburban F5 train underground from Placa de Espanya. (Your best bet is to enter above ground from the SE-side of Placa for closest access to FGC's without having to trapse thru Metro lines.) Roundtrip ticket in 12/99 was 1855 pesetas/.25. The train drops you off on a platform for the cable car ride up the mountain. It's included in the cost of your ticket; there's no admission fee. From Barcelona to mountainside is approximately one hour.

I caught the earliest departure at 8:36 a.m. Trains leave Barcelona on the hour stopping at Montserrat until 4:36 p.m. Cable car services are timed to coincide with train arrival/departures.

Funicular Sant Joan runs from the monastery compound further up the mountain. One-way ride is 560 with return included costing 875. One-way is the better deal since once at the top - if you explore anywhere, you'll have to walk farther back uphill to ride back than if you'd continue the walk downhill.

Public bus lines run from Barcelona for 1300 pesetas round-trip, but you miss out on the cable car ride. Tourist excursion companies also have daytrips coming here.

Like most everything else in confined Montserrat, dining opportunties were also quite limited and packed to the max!

In a section called the Placa de la Creu which faces the main road below the actual sites is a conglomeration of eateries which take on a fast-foods, high school snack bar setting. Bocadillo/sandwiches, chips, fries, fruits, ice creams, sodas and other drinks and such are sold at various counters for an above average cost with a below average quality. Within the dining area, you'll be lucky to find a spot to sit and will likely have to clear the trays, dishes, etc. from a table once a chair opens up.

Within the same cafeteria area, and in a couple of other larger locations within the compound, are gift shops selling many momentos from the Montserrat area, but you'd be wise to check out their bottled liquers made here and sold in various sized bottles. I purchased some of the 'Crema Catalana de Montserrat' made from milk, sugar, eggs, flan and with a hint of lime which was 32-proof Gran Licor and the closest to anything I've found like Jamaican Rum Cream without actually being on the island. Airplane sized "bottled shots" also made great souvenir gifts for relatively little cost.

Further out along the same main road below and across from the basilica is another group of unsuspecting cafeterias built within a complex that hangs out over the side of the mountain. These are more full service cafeterias with entree elections and of course, higher prices. This entire area definitely had a more "official" approach to it in accomodating tour buses and also appearing to have conference centers. Outside the dining areas are balconies that lead down into mountainside gardens which have excellent views.

There's also a restaurant in one of the hotels.

Once you reach the top of the funicular, there's a nature center which has vending machines with drinks. I had some fruit in my bag and if I'd known conditions would be as crowded, limited, and somewhat expensive as they were, I'd have surely picked up some food before leaving the city and quietly dined atop the mountain where my only interruption and distraction would have been looking in a different direction and being mesmerized by what I saw.

The monastery of Montserrat looks rich in history, but "tradition" would be a more accurate term. What you actually see today is only about 100 years old though it was built in architectural style to look much, much older.

It's believed this area was organized sometime during the 9th century as a Holy place after an appearance by the Black Virgin on the mountain. It grew over a period of centuries to be eventually acknowledged by the Holy Roman Empire in the early 1400's with full independence. After another prosperous 400 years, the area fell seige to Napoleon and his troops during the Spanish/French war and in 1811, the area was sacked and destroyed and all the Monks were killed. Reconstruciton and repopulation of the areas as a monastery did not begin until the 1840's/50's. The current basilica was completed in 1901. The monastery continued to flourish in the 20th century including during Franco's dictatorship with great pride to the Catalonians...a region of Spain that was sour grapes to Franco's leadership. Today, it's said 80-some Benedictine monks call Montserrat home.

The history of the monastery pales in comparison with that of the actual mountain which is believed to have once been under the Mediterranean Sea. Receeding waters left heavy deposits of limestone, sand and rocks that survived the element to be shaped into the "must see" configurations that words can't adequately describe.

So don't be deceived by what you see...but, what about what you'll likely feel?

There is definitely "a presence" at/in/on Montserrat whether you're inside one of the monastery buildings or outside. With the landscape and beauty, I don't know of any other place in the world I could even come close to comparing this to. It's special unto it's own...and the monastery deems it Holy. Who's to argue?

Tightly clustered within a flat space 2,443 feet up the side of the mountain, this mini village and monastery are a masterpiece of Spanish architecture with their plaza, bricks and red-tiled roofs. What you see from the outside will likely be as impressive or more so than anything found inside.

Once you've climbed some brief stairs, you'll find yourself in the middle of Placa de Santa Maria. Buildings lining the left side of the Placa are where the two small hotels were...and I presume the apartments that are also for rent.

You'll proceed up a short rampway to porticos which allow you to enter into the inner courtyard of the basilica. There are intricate designs on the building facades as well as on the courtyard floor. The facade of the basilica has the carving of Christ with the 12 apostles. There are numerous works of art and such to see on the lower levels surrounding the courtyard and to the right side, where all the people are standing, are the slow moving lines waiting to traverse to the back of the basilica and the statue of the Black Virgin; Montserrat's most popular sight. Viewing is permitted between the hours of 8:00 - 10:30 a.m. and 12:00 - 6:30 p.m.

Inside the basilica is basically what you'd expect, though after Barcelona's Grand Cathderals it was just another "big church". Perhaps the highlights here is not what you see...but what you'll hear when the Boys Choir gives daily concerts at 1:00 and 7:00 p.m. except during the month of July. Their efforts stem from what is claimed to be the oldest, continual running music school in all of Europe.

Readers of my travel journals will have learned I don't go anywhere without poking around in the side areas and lesser explored places. And yes, Montserrat has a couple of those, too. From looking at my maps, I can't find exactly where I entered, but there's an outdoor alcove/courtyard to the left of the basilica which had several artifacts whether on actual disply or just stuck out of the way. It was in this area I found the smaller statue of "a black virign" who's photo also accompanies this journal entry. With the long lines waiting to see the real, major attraction, I had to determine this statue was as close as it was going to get for this trip.

However, I can't deny that with all that the monastery may or may not have had to offer...including a couple of museums I didn't enter, it was hard to focus and not be distracted being engulfed by the strange looking peaks which towered all above. It would be truthful to say these are what commanded my full attention and beckoned me higher...likely short-changing and causing me to skirt thru the monastery.

Don't be suprised if you come away from Montserrat as I did - feeling like the mountain itself was much more impressive than the monastery! Should I ever return, the entire effort will go towards further exploring the hiking trails.

Once you deboard the funicular, it's a short walk up to a central location where a nature center is located also containing geological information about the area. You'll also note signs marking three trails, but without rhyme or reason to which you should tackle first. I suggest first taking the Geroni Trail which heads off to your right/south.

The trail is rather easy with level grounds to traverse. You'll walk thru some wooded area before the paths open up allowing open-air vistas looking across and back down to the monastery area. By now you'll be standing at the base of the unique peaks which you should try to identify from below before making the trip up. I stopped and gawked for quite some time before heading on...though I couldn't determine exactly how much farther. The trail is rather deceiving the way it continually curves and disappears. You'll be tempted to keep going just to see what's there. I went well past where the monastery was no longer visible. Should you desire, various trails lead all around the southern parts of the mountains.

Once you've returned to the nature center, there's also a lesser trail which is forward and a little to the right. I didn't walk this one, but along the way is a cave area where a monk lived for quite some time.

From this central area, the main trail (don't recall its name) is to the left of the Nature Center. I would rate this trail at more of a moderately difficult level with a few hills to climb, but it's all mostly downhill with slippery pathes from loose rocks. Views around the mountain and across the scenary continued to inspire me for "stop and stare" breaks...even on this overcaste day. I couldn't see the Pyrenees or Mallorca, but Tibidabo point in Barcelona was visible.

Along this trail are several small chapels, memorials, crosses and significant religious relics you can stop to see. Some are directly on the path; others quite the distance off. If you continue in the downhill direction, the path will eventually pass the campgrounds and deliver you back to the monastery near the funicular.

If you've time to venture onto only one of these trails, I highly recommend Geroni based on the easy level and spectacular views. You'd be wise to ride the funicular back down. As for the crowds, less than 20 people passed me on the Geroni trail...thankfully, as it was too narrow for any tourist buses.