High Times: a Month in Bolivia

Tupiza

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The Wild South-West Photo - Tupiza, Bolivia

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"The next time I say, "Let’s go someplace like Bolivia", let’s GO someplace like Bolivia …"(Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid: 1969)Indeed, the next time infamous outlaw Cassidy said this, the pair did make their way to Bolivia, where the bank-robbing habit once again proved too tough to kick. For once, though, luck wasn’t on their side, and Butch and Sundance met their ends on a sun-parched hillside just outside of Tupiza, in the south of the country.A dusty, sleepy little town some forty or so miles from the Argentinean border, Tupiza has two main draws for tourists (or three if you count simply being an infinitely more agreeable place than border town Villazon f...Read More

"The next time I say, "Let’s go someplace like Bolivia", let’s GO someplace like Bolivia …"

(Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid: 1969)

Indeed, the next time infamous outlaw Cassidy said this, the pair did make their way to Bolivia, where the bank-robbing habit once again proved too tough to kick. For once, though, luck wasn’t on their side, and Butch and Sundance met their ends on a sun-parched hillside just outside of Tupiza, in the south of the country.

A dusty, sleepy little town some forty or so miles from the Argentinean border, Tupiza has two main draws for tourists (or three if you count simply being an infinitely more agreeable place than border town Villazon for a stopover). The surrounding countryside is one of these – dramatic rusty rock formations, canyons and valleys; the Wild West parallels are quickly apparent. Amongst the destinations close to the town that can be reached by horse, bike or foot, Waca Wañusca (Dead Cow Hill) was the site of Cassidy and Sundance’s final hold-up, while numerous non-outlaw-related hikes and trails take in the remarkably dramatic scenery close at hand.

The second, and probably principal reason for tourists to visit Tupiza is its location as a starting point for the South-West Circuit, a multi-day 4x4 excursion that takes in some of the wealth of natural wonders of this corner of the country and culminates in a sunrise visit to the Salar de Uyuni. This surreal white wilderness – a vast dried salt plain – is one of Bolivia’s most popular and celebrated attractions, and is most often visited from nearby Uyuni, but starting from Tupiza is an excellent way of sidestepping the (admittedly limited) crowds and taking in a wider range of stunning vistas, from lagoons to volcanoes by way of isolated former mining towns and stinking geysers.

Tupiza can be reached by bus and infrequent train – the latter shuttles between Villazon on the border and Oruro, several hundred miles north, taking about a day to make the whole trip (about three hours to reach Tupiza from Villazon). As such, aim to arrive at either terminus on one of the days the train is in town. This was Wednesday/Friday/Monday from Villazon when I travelled (Thursday/Saturday/Tuesday from Oruro), but it’s always necessary to check and re-check when negotiating the delights of Bolivian public transport. Bus travel is more frequent, but even less reliable. My eleven-hour journey from Uyuni to La Paz, for instance, eventually got me to my destination a mere thirty hours late.

With such surrounding attractions, it’s perhaps no surprise that Tupiza is a functional base and little more. It is, though, a pleasant town in which to relax for a few days – and, depending on where you’ve come from, to acclimatise. The 3,000-metre altitude isn’t too punishing, but you’ll want to take it easy to start with. Constructed in a simple grid fashion, the main square and the train station are three blocks apart, and just about everything you’ll want can be found within this slice of town. Tupiza has a modest but generally pretty decent selection of hotels – Hotel Mitru and Hostal Valle Hermoso seem to be broadly well thought-of, although others look to be of reasonable quality. Do check the situation with heating, though – warm days at this altitude give way to extremely cold nights, and icy rooms and tepid water is never a pleasant combination.

A variety of restaurants can be found around these central streets – Italian seems to be the flavour of choice, and the food is functional and filling. The market offers an unpredictable variety of goods, and is useful for stocking up on knitwear before heading out onto the chilly altiplano by jeep – find it to the north-east of the square.

If you’re looking to do the South-West Circuit (and it certainly comes recommended), any number of agencies will sell packages, many of them operating out of the hotels. Tupiza Tours have a good reputation, though everyone I spoke to seemed happy with what they’d got. Generally, you’ll get a better deal in Tupiza than Uyuni, if only because there are fewer tourists around – check how many people in the vehicle, though. Six is ideal, and seven is bearable, but more than that and you’ll spend the long hours travelling between locations getting to know your fellow travellers rather too well. Expect to pay around 1000 Bolivianos for the four-day package (roughly £100). If this seems a lot, consider that it includes all food and accommodation, not to mention the transport which would otherwise make the journey next-to-impossible.

An additional consideration to note is the lack of any ATMs in the town – if you haven’t got enough cash, the bank will allow you to withdraw money, but be prepared for a long queue and a considerable wait. It’s well worth taking out what you’ll need in advance if possible.

Tupiza may not be much of a destination in its own right, but as a gateway to a wealth of natural wonders, it makes for a pretty pleasant stay. Small and unhurried, friendly and relaxed, it’s a fine port of call whether you’re entering or leaving Bolivia.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 20, 2010

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Ruins of Tiwanaku (Tiahuanaco)

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Attraction | "What The Lake Left Behind"

Pachamama Statue, Tiwanaku Photo - Ruins of Tiwanaku (Tiahuanaco), La Paz, Bolivia

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When it comes to ruins, perhaps I peaked too early. Visiting Peru four years before Bolivia, and Mexico three, I've been fortunate enough to see some of the most celebrated piles of stone Latin America has to offer. After the likes of Chichen Itza, Palenque and Machu Picchu, there are no end of fantastic sites to visit, but perhaps not on quite the same scale. Tiahuanaco/Tiwanaku is today a UNESCO world heritage site, and stands as the remnants of a pre-Hispanic, pre-Inca civilisation that fell and dissipated two hundred years before the more famous Peruvian dynasty was born. Located about an hour's drive west of Bolivia's capital La Paz, the site is a popular day's excursion, and has been...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on January 19, 2010

Ruins of Tiwanaku (Tiahuanaco)
Near Shores Of Lake Titicaca
Bolivia, South America

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Well Worth Its Salt

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Tupiza Bank Photo - Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

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It's about half five in the morning, it's pitch-black, and it's minus-a-lot-degrees. I haven't had a proper wash in four days and I've been consistently cold for just about all that time - although I'm also sunburnt, somehow. Standing in the midst of a great empty plain, I'm not getting any warmer - and the sun doesn't seem to be in any hurry to rise. Rise it does, however, and the icy waiting starts to pay off. With nothing to interrupt them, our shadows stretch far behind us, long, blueish, parallel lines cast by our legs. In every direction, nothing but a sea of white stands between you and the horizon; mildly disorientating, but quite stunning. It's still damn cold though. ...Read More

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La Paz (General)

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La Paz is occasionally dubbed the highest capital city in the world - this is partly true; lowland Sucre is Bolivia's constitutional capital, although 4,000 metre-high La Paz certainly plays the central role of the nation's cities. Its considerable altitude has hit the headlines of late after football's world governing body, FIFA, banned matches being played in the city, tired of the tendencies of Bolivia and its Andean neighbours, Ecuador and Peru, to switch home matches against the continent's big guns to high-altitude venues, handing them a distinct advantage while their opponents labour in the thin air. This caused considerable outrage amongst the Andean nations, fiercely defensive of ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 10, 2010

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Copacabana (General)

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Copacabana Cathedral Photo - Copacabana, Bolivia

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Outside the Cathedral, all whitewashed Moorish curves against rich blue sky, crowds mill, garlands are passed and the Priest performs his blessings. Those receiving the goodwill are dressed for the occasion, bedecked with flowers, and have been polished to a gleaming finish. Car blessings are a big thing in Copacabana, just east of the Peru-Bolivia border - I'm told they're the chosen alternative of the many drivers who can't afford insurance, opting for the divine form instead. Anywhere else I might assume this is a joke, but in Bolivia it's all too plausible. This may not be the most famous Copacabana in South America, but much like its better-known namesake in Brazil, it takes in a cele...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 12, 2010

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