Away With The Fairies

Goreme

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Over the last twenty years or so, Göreme (pronounced ‘Gorr-eh-may") has boomed. Once just a small farming community it has become probably the prime backpacker site in Turkey. Long distant buses roar into to the town square of the village direct from Istanbul. Ankara and the coast. The main – in fact only – street is lined with bars, juice stands, and cafes. Touts advertise horse riding, quad biking, hot air ballooning, and two day tours to Nemrut Dağ. It reminded me of a built-up inland version of Dahab in Egypt – except without the benefit of the Red Sea to draw the punters.So what does draw them in? Three things. The first is the quite remarkable landsca...Read More

Over the last twenty years or so, Göreme (pronounced ‘Gorr-eh-may") has boomed. Once just a small farming community it has become probably the prime backpacker site in Turkey. Long distant buses roar into to the town square of the village direct from Istanbul. Ankara and the coast. The main – in fact only – street is lined with bars, juice stands, and cafes. Touts advertise horse riding, quad biking, hot air ballooning, and two day tours to Nemrut Dağ. It reminded me of a built-up inland version of Dahab in Egypt – except without the benefit of the Red Sea to draw the punters.

So what does draw them in?

Three things. The first is the quite remarkable landscape. Göreme is famed for its ‘fairy chimneys’ – tall tapering spires of rock. They exist because the rock here is something special – it is tuff, compacted volcanic ash. This is soft and easily eroded. Wind, rain and water have carved the rocks into fantastic shapes – meringues and peaks of whipped egg white. Sometimes a top layer of harder rock – usually basalt – resists erosion. When this happens the softer tuff around about gets worn away, leaving the hard rock balancing upon a thin column of tuff. Göreme sits at the centre of this area. These bizarre formations have inspired fables and legends for centuries – hence their common name of fairy chimneys. The area around ‘Love Valley’ is particularly rich in chimneys. With their tapering columns thrusting to the sky and darker conical tips they are thought to look like giant phalluses (which is why the valley is called ‘Love Valley’). Personally I just felt a craving for asparagus…

The second is the cultural uses the landscape can be put to. Being so soft, the tuff is easily chiselled into. With so many peaks standing proud of the land early inhabitants simply carved their homes into these spires. Entire houses were cut into the rock, rooms, doors and windows. Dove cotes were painstakingly etched into the material (the guano of the doves proved to be a good fertiliser). In Göreme some of these rock-cut houses and hollowed-out fairy chimneys are still inhabited – some even house hotels (though you will be paying through the nose to sleep in one!). Nor is it just domestic architecture that the terrain harbours. Home to a thriving monastic Christian community, Cappadocia also witnessed churches and monasteries being carved into the soft earth, and then decorated with pigments made from local plants and minerals. The Rock Sites of Cappadocia are now inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, and – as home to the Göreme Open Air Museum, a complex of thirty or so rock-cut churches – Göreme is right at the heart of it.

The third is probably just word of mouth. As backpackers started to visit Göreme facilities sprang up to cater for them. Word of mouth and tourist money have snowballed so much that Göreme is now probably Turkey’s backpacker capital. There is an established backpacker trail snaking across the country linking Istanbul, Gallipoli, Ephesus, the Turquoise Coast, Nemrut Dağ and Göreme. It has become self-perpetuating. Backpackers come to Göreme, because Göreme is where the backpackers go.

I have to say, I wasn’t quite sure what to make of Göreme. It all seemed a bit soulless – a collection of bars and souvenir shops strung along a road. While the Open-Air Museum is worth a look and the chance to go hot air ballooning about the fantasy terrain should not be missed I kind of felt that was it. I wasn’t interested in going quad biking, wouldn’t pay the prices quoted for horse riding, am not really in to mountain biking. Instead I felt as though I was being forced to relax because that was all there was to do there. A change in scenery merely meant a change in location from one juice bar to the next. Göreme I found to be a strange lotus-eater location. Having visited once, I’m really not sure I would ever care to visit again…

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Member Rating 2 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

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Goreme Open Air Museum

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Attraction | "Unique Rock-Cut Churches; Early Christian Frescoes"

Goreme Open-Air Museum Photo - Goreme Open Air Museum, Goreme, Turkey

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St Paul brought Christianity to Cappaocia. And here it flourished. Isolated n its rugged terrain the Cappadocian Christians formed a flourishing community. They excavated their churches and monasteries from the soft grey tuff and decorated thm with pigments and dyes produced locally from natural ingredients. Up until the 1920s these churches still catered for Greek Orthodox celebrants. But now, by and large, the Christians have gone, and the churches are empty. Except for the tourists. These remarkable churches, dug out of the rock and with their frescoes still vivid have proved to be a wonderful tourist attraction. And the largest concentration of theme lies a mere mile up the...Read More

St Paul brought Christianity to Cappaocia. And here it flourished. Isolated n its rugged terrain the Cappadocian Christians formed a flourishing community. They excavated their churches and monasteries from the soft grey tuff and decorated thm with pigments and dyes produced locally from natural ingredients. Up until the 1920s these churches still catered for Greek Orthodox celebrants. But now, by and large, the Christians have gone, and the churches are empty.

Except for the tourists.

These remarkable churches, dug out of the rock and with their frescoes still vivid have proved to be a wonderful tourist attraction. And the largest concentration of theme lies a mere mile up the road from Göreme. This is the Göreme Open-Air Museum.

Entry is 15TL, and lets you into a lightly wooded dell. There are around thirty churches to explore. They are cut into the very rock of the spiky pinnacles, key-hole shaped doors leading into arched and domed spaces. The Çarikli Kilise (‘Church of the Sandals’) has columns supporting the dome and separating off the apse. The Karanlik Kilise (for which there is an extra fee of 5TL to enter, which seems a bit of a cheek) is split-level. Stairs run up, or down, to more shrines tucked around corners. The Barbara Kilise (‘Church of St Barbara’) can be accessed via a low tunnel.

Turning left once past the turnstiles and moving around in a clockwise motion I came to a church with glassed-over graves in its floor. Next door was a refectory, with benches and a large communal table carved from the solid matter of the rock; above it a fresco of the Last Supper in ochre hues can be seen.

Progressing from one church to the next the frescoes seemed to become clearer and more ornate. Stories from the life of Christ were juxtaposed with assorted saints and holy men. Saints George and Theodoros reappear frequently, killing dragons and proving inspiration. In the Yilanli Kilise (‘Church of the Snake’) there is a fresco of Constantine the Great and his mother St Helena, flanking the True Cross. But in this church everyone’s eyes are drawn to the strange depiction of St Onuphrius. The saint as shown here is a bearded and rather emaciated individual, with prominent breasts and a strange pink plant providing decency. Frankly, it looks a little like a vagina. Hence the local guides’ story that Onuphrius was originally something of a loose woman. When she prayed to be spared from the lust of men – hey presto! – she grew a beard. Which would be more than likely to cool any suitor’s ardour frankly! The Elmali Kilise (‘Church of the Apple’) has very well preserved frescoes showing the fathers of the church – Moses, Elias, and Solomon among others.

Possibly the best frescoes however are not in the main complex at all. Upon leaving, head back down the road towards Göreme. Just to the right of the road you will find the Tokali Kilise (‘Church with the Buckle’) – entry is with your main ticket. This is the largest church in Göreme, with a crypt beneath. In here all the walls and ceiling are liberally coated with a brilliant (and no doubt at that time expensive) blue background made from crushed lapis lazuli. The frescoes date from the 10th-11th centiries: the life of Christ is told on panels all around the walls, interspersed with carved niches holding depictions of the saints.

Göreme caters for outdoor activities and for lazing around. The Open-Air Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the only ‘cultural’ site around. Many of Göreme’s visitors have a thoroughly enjoyable time without making it up here, but I would recommend a trip around these intricately decorated churches to admire the art this now-vanished community has left behind.

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Member Rating 3 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Goreme Open Air Museum
1 Mile Outside Goreme
Goreme, Turkey

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Kapadokya Balloons

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Attraction | "Flying With The Fairies"

Balloon Over Love Valley Photo - Kapadokya Balloons, Goreme, Turkey

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Göreme is a backpacker town. It is used to late nights and late breakfasts. So why then was I fully dressed and waiting for a minibus at 5.15 in the morning? And why had I paid 350TL (around £175) for the privilege?Hot air balloons.There has always been something majestic about these graceful giants floating overhead. It had been something I had always wanted to experience for myself. And Cappadocia is reknowned as one of the most amazing places in the world to go for a balloon ride. It was pricey, and it meant an early start, but there was no way I could pass up an opportunity to fly lighter-than-air above the fairy chimneys of Göreme.There are numerous conc...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Kapadokya Balloons

Goreme, Turkey
+90 (384) 271 2442

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Walnut House

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Hotel | "Walnut House - Secluded in the Heart of Town"

Up The Garden Path Photo - Walnut House, Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin

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Walnut House manages an almost impossible feat. It manages to feel secluded whilst actually being located slap-bang in the middle of Göreme. The otogar (bus station) and travel agencies are about a minute walk away across the main road. Another minute and you come to the start of the main strip of bars and restaurants. A shaded front garden leads to the simple traditional-style bulding. In the spacious and homey lobby you will find reception and couches for lounging on. Breakfast is also served here. There is an alcove with a PC for free internet access; if you have your own computer there is Wi-fi. Laundry can be arranged too. Be aware that you will have to share the lobby with Wal...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Walnut House
Zeybek Sok
Goreme, Turkey
+90 (384) 271 2235

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Dibek Traditional Home Cook

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Restaurant | "Dibek for Authentic Traditional Rural Turkish Cuisine"

Dining at Dibek Photo - Dibek Traditional Home Cook, Goreme, Turkey

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So much of Göreme has sprouted up in the last twenty years that it is a real joy to find somewhere with a bit of history. Dibek fits that bill perfectly. Here you dine in a 475 year-old building. The restaurant was formerly a stable-block, and you can still see the wooden stalls and assorted other paraphenalia. You may even be able to spot an actual dibek - a traditional mixing bowl like a large pestle. The tables are low, and diners sit cross-legged on cushions after leaving your footware in the corridor.The food here is good old-fashioned Turkish country fare. If you want burgers and chips there are plenty of other places for those in Göreme! Probably the most famouse dish ...Read More

So much of Göreme has sprouted up in the last twenty years that it is a real joy to find somewhere with a bit of history. Dibek fits that bill perfectly. Here you dine in a 475 year-old building. The restaurant was formerly a stable-block, and you can still see the wooden stalls and assorted other paraphenalia. You may even be able to spot an actual dibek - a traditional mixing bowl like a large pestle. The tables are low, and diners sit cross-legged on cushions after leaving your footware in the corridor.

The food here is good old-fashioned Turkish country fare. If you want burgers and chips there are plenty of other places for those in Göreme! Probably the most famouse dish on the menu is the testi kebab. You need to order this at least five hours in advance as it will be prepared specially. This is a kebab with vegetables (tomato, pepper, aubergine, potato, garlic), slowly baked in a clay pot. This will be brought sizzling to the table along with a hammer. Either let the waiter smash the pot open, or do it yourself (watch your fingers!). What a fun way to take part in the dining experience! And one of my so-far infallible rules of travelling is that if something is cooked in a clay pot, it is invariably good!

However I had manti instead. Manti is a traditional homemade Turkish ravioli, stuffed with either meat or cheese. It comes served hot, but with a chilled sauce of yogurt and tomato. The combination of hot food and cold yogurt has been known to put people off. I just thought it was yummy.

We were served salad, pickles and rustic bread to accompany the meal. The seven of us also ordered two carafes of wine. The wine here is homemade, served in earthenware jugs with matching goblets, and comes in two flavours – red and white! It is a little rough around the edges, but it certainly serves to compliment the hearty homemade grub. For a traditional Turkish country-style meal, Dibek really must be the place to head for.

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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Dibek Traditional Home Cook
Hakki PaÅŸsa Meydani 1
Goreme, Turkey
+90 384 271 2209

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Fat Boys Bar

Restaurant | "Fat Boys - Backpacker Central"

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With a prime position on the main drag, Fat Boys is backpacker central. The owner (Fat Boy) is a local who once moved to Australia; he and his Australian wife now run the joint together. As such it has rapidly become a home-from-home for the many Australians passing through Göreme. Australian sports pennants hang off the walls, and there are pool tables – at night it gets raucous with a party crowd. I found it a decent place to visit in the day though. It serves good comfort food like chips and dips. Their bowls or nachos are massive, and their homemade hamburgers are a pretty decent size too! As a change from the usual fruit juices that are sold everywhere in town for about ...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Fat Boys Bar

Goreme, Cappadocia
(902) 429-8666

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Central Cappadocia

Derinkuyu Underground City

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Attraction | "Derinkuyu - Troglodytes or Goblins?"

Cramped Passageways Photo - Derinkuyu Underground City, Cappadocia, Turkey

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Half way between Göreme and Niğde you will find a small town called Derinkuyu ("Deep well"). There are souvenir stores and tour buses – seemingly more than the hamlet could possibly hold. But this holds the most remarkable site in all of Cappadocia. Because buried beneath your feet lies an entire city – a city constructed underground!Whether it was to escape religious persecution, or simply to hide from bandits and armies, the people of Derinkuyu decided to carve a labyrinthine network of chambers and passages from the soft tuff rock below their farmsteads. As time went on this complex gre to be more and more elaborate, stretching down some eleven levels to a depth of 85 metres...Read More

Half way between Göreme and Niğde you will find a small town called Derinkuyu ("Deep well"). There are souvenir stores and tour buses – seemingly more than the hamlet could possibly hold. But this holds the most remarkable site in all of Cappadocia. Because buried beneath your feet lies an entire city – a city constructed underground!

Whether it was to escape religious persecution, or simply to hide from bandits and armies, the people of Derinkuyu decided to carve a labyrinthine network of chambers and passages from the soft tuff rock below their farmsteads. As time went on this complex gre to be more and more elaborate, stretching down some eleven levels to a depth of 85 metres, and sprawling out over an ever-increasing area. It is thought that at its height this troglodyte city could shelter between 3000 and 50,000 people.

Not all of the Derinkuyu underground city has been opened up to the public. The cleared passages cover an area of some 1500 square metres and plunge 55m into the ground however. At its peak this city was massive – and there were other similar constructions beneath other towns: some 200 cities of two levels or more have been discovered in the area between Kayseri and Nevsehir.

The tunnels and underground chambers are low and cramped – really not suitable for anyone with claustrophobia. However they are well lit with electric lighting and well ventilated. The ventilation comes from the system put in place by the original inhabitants – shafts and wells plunging from the surface down to a depth of 85 metres, with access points on all levels to keep the fresh air circulating. Each level would have a main gateway. Beside these you can see large circular blocks of stone, 500kg in weight, like upturned millstones. These would be emergency doors that could be rolled across to seal the accessway.

The upper levels hold stables, kitchens, living quarters, and a winery (which also saw use as a seminary). On the lowest level accessible to the public there is a church and a room used as a morgue. This deep underground the air was chilly but still fresh. The biggest concern was the low ceilings, though many of the main chambers were high enough for me to stand fully upright. I could easily imagine it as a thriving community – assuming that the inhabitants were goblins!

Derinkuyu shows the sheer scope of what Cappadocia’s inhabitants were capable of doing with the soft tuff stone. The thought of just how many years it must have taken these people to carve out this entire trogladyte city, hidden below ground, is mind-boggling. I think that this actually has to be the premier sight in Cappadocia. It will leave you marvelling at the ingenuity of the villagers of Derinkuyu.

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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Derinkuyu Underground City
Derinkuyu
Cappadocia, Turkey

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Ihlara Valley

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Attraction | "Enchanted by the Nymph of Ihlara Valley"

The Shaded Melendiz River Photo - Ihlara Valley, Cappadocia, Turkey

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The ancients firmly believed in the genius loci, or spirit of places. Their personification would be nymphs – nymphs of the forest, nymphs of the mountain, nymphs of the trees and of the streams and the springs. And walking in the Ihlara Valley I found myself thinking along the same lines. It was a magical place. I could definitely believe that this tranquil trickling brook could have its own associated naiad splashing among the overhanging trees.The Ihlara Valley is a great green gash in the otherwise semi-arid Cappadocian plateau. Over the years the little tinkling Melendiz has incised its way down through the soft tuff, carving a canyon disproportionately large for such a ...Read More

The ancients firmly believed in the genius loci, or spirit of places. Their personification would be nymphs – nymphs of the forest, nymphs of the mountain, nymphs of the trees and of the streams and the springs. And walking in the Ihlara Valley I found myself thinking along the same lines. It was a magical place. I could definitely believe that this tranquil trickling brook could have its own associated naiad splashing among the overhanging trees.

The Ihlara Valley is a great green gash in the otherwise semi-arid Cappadocian plateau. Over the years the little tinkling Melendiz has incised its way down through the soft tuff, carving a canyon disproportionately large for such a pretty stream. Its path is a jumble of rocks and green woodland. A walking trail hugs its bank for the entire 6km length of valley between Ihlara and Selime. Despite the increasing numbers who come to Ihlara this path meanders and it is easy to lose the track – just keep following the river though.

This hidden valley was colonised by those who liked their isolation. Churches are carved into the valley walls, their walls and ceiling decorated with naïve religious frescoes on whitewashed plaster. I descended the flight of several hundred steps that wound down from the carpark half-way between Ihlara and Belisirma. This brings you down right beside one of the main churches, the Ağaçalti Kilise (‘Church under the Tree’). Scenes I recognised included Daniel in the lions’ den and the presentation of the Magi. Doing my tour guide bit I gestured at the three wise men with their beards and pointed hats and stated authoratively that the three Magi were known as Melchior, Balthasar, and Dumbledore. Though looking back now I think I may have been mistaken about Balthasar…

Though much as it pains me to admit it, it was not the churches that are the main attraction. Rather the valley itself was just a real joy to walk along. There are a couple of sections where I had to climb over boulders, but other than that the way was easy. Shaded by the tree canopy, with the brook tinkling musically alongside, this was a beautiful little stroll. Birds chirped overhead, dragonflies flitted past, and trout could be seen in the water. Where the valley opened out carved openings could be seen in the rock walls – houses, churches and dovecotes. Once I had managed to get away from the crowds I found myself strolling along in peace, falling under the spell of the Ihlara Valley.

Reaching Belisirma I caught up with the rest of my group. Eagerly we pulled off our shoes, rolled up our trousers, and went for a paddle in the stream. Inquisitive fish circled our ankles. Ducks quacked at us. And a cat led the way to the restaurants here. These straggled alongside the water. We stopped to eat at the Aslan. My first bottle of Efes lager went down a treat, and soon I was tucking into the delicate pink flesh of a grilled trout (possibly from the very same river!), served with couscous and salad. Afterwards we retired to a wooden pier built on stilts over the stream. Furnished with a canopy and cushions we relaxed here above the tinkling brook finishing off our beer. The perfect ending to a perfect stroll down a perfect valley. The nymph of the Ihlara Valley had well and truly cast her spell over me!

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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Ihlara Valley
Cappad
Cappadocia, Cappadocia

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Nigde

Hotel Sahiner

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Hotel | "Niğde and the Otel Şahiner"

Niğde at Dusk Photo - Hotel Sahiner, Cappadocia, Turkey

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According to the Rough Guide to Turkey "the small provincial town of Niğde has few remaining monuments of any great interest" – it is "little more than a landmark on the Kayseri-Adana road".This is very unfair to Niğde. I may only have been staying for one night but I personally thought that Niğde was a perfectly lovely little city. With good transport connections, Niğde forms the southern gateway to Cappadocia. As a bustling and seemingly prosperous place in its own right and with good amenities like banks, pharmacies, hotels and restaurants it does warrant a closer inspection. It is handy for several of the sites of southern Cappadocia, thereby saving you the hassle of goin...Read More

According to the Rough Guide to Turkey "the small provincial town of Niğde has few remaining monuments of any great interest" – it is "little more than a landmark on the Kayseri-Adana road".

This is very unfair to Niğde. I may only have been staying for one night but I personally thought that Niğde was a perfectly lovely little city. With good transport connections, Niğde forms the southern gateway to Cappadocia. As a bustling and seemingly prosperous place in its own right and with good amenities like banks, pharmacies, hotels and restaurants it does warrant a closer inspection. It is handy for several of the sites of southern Cappadocia, thereby saving you the hassle of going on exactly the same tour as everyone else in Göreme.

Part of my liking for Niğde (pronouced ‘knee-deh’) may have something to do with my stay at the Otel Şahiner. Of the four hotels I stayed in on this trip to Turkey this was my favourite. It was smart, plush, comfy, and well run. The lobby is furnished with leather chairs and settees and decorated with large photographs of the site of Cappadocia. An internet café is off to one side with ten PC stations. It has 35 rooms – ours had great beds, good air conditioning, a clean bathroom with hairdryer, and a TV with international satellite channels. There was also wi-fi in the room. Frankly, the entire room just struck me as being a cut above any other place I had stayed in the Middle East.

There is a restaurant on the top floor. I only went up there for the included buffet breakfast. This had a real spread, from cereal (cereal!) to toast, bread and jam, salad, cold cuts of meat and the inevitable hard-boiled eggs, and a choice of juices, tea or coffee.

In the basement there is a small gym, and also a nice little room called the ‘Ottoman Corner’. This had cushioned settees, a dart board, tavla and chess boards, and several other games to play. It proved to be a great place to spend the evening playing card games.

If you hadn’t guessed, I really liked the Otel Şahiner. I thought it was a super hotel, and I hope the management keep the standards up!
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Hotel Sahiner
Ziraat Bankasi KarÅŸisi, NiÄŸde
Cappadocia, Turkey
+90 (388) 232 21 21

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Eski Gumus (The Monastery of Gumusler)

Attraction | "Eski Gumusler and the Rediscovered Monastery"

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Much like the churches in Göreme Open-Air Museum, the Eski Gümüşler Monastery is another religious foundation carved from the rock itself. Just 6 miles east of Niğde this monastery was supposedly only rediscovered in 1963. I find that hard to believe. Are we meant to believe that the villagers of Gümüşler didn’t know there was an old monastery just up the path through the cherry orchards? But whether you believe the story or not, a trip out is highly recommended if you are in the Niğde area.Your entrance fee (3TL) lets you into a rock-cut passage which debouches into a main courtyard, open to the sky above. Chambers hollowed out of the tuff stretch off on several levels to either si...Read More

Much like the churches in Göreme Open-Air Museum, the Eski Gümüşler Monastery is another religious foundation carved from the rock itself. Just 6 miles east of Niğde this monastery was supposedly only rediscovered in 1963. I find that hard to believe. Are we meant to believe that the villagers of Gümüşler didn’t know there was an old monastery just up the path through the cherry orchards? But whether you believe the story or not, a trip out is highly recommended if you are in the Niğde area.

Your entrance fee (3TL) lets you into a rock-cut passage which debouches into a main courtyard, open to the sky above. Chambers hollowed out of the tuff stretch off on several levels to either side. Graves and storage vats for oil or wine are incised into the floor. Nesting boxes for pigeons are above. Stairways lead up to sleeeping quarters with rock-cut beds, and passages slope down to cellars.

But it is for the main church that the monastery is most known. The beautiful frescoes in here date from the 11th century. Pride of place has to go to a startling depiction of the Nativity. The Virgin reclines ona luxuriously detailed bedspread while the infant Jesus lies swaddled in his crib, looked over by a friendly cow and goat. Joseph is slumped in the bottom left corner, looking thoroughly hacked off with the whole thing. Spiralling out around the central scene are vignettes of the shepherds, magi and angels, all highlighted against an inky midnight blue. The colours are still vivid yet delicate pastels and charcoals, as though they were daubed on last year rather than ten centuries ago.

Eski Gümüşler Monastery is just one site, rather than the sprawling ecclesiastical complex you would find at Göreme. However it is on a more domestic scale, and gives an impression of how these monks must have passed their time cooking and carving as well as praying.

(One word of warning. There are no toilets at the monastery. Instead you have to go across the road to the pricey café and pay for the privilege)

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Member Rating 3 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Eski Gumus (The Monastery of Gumusler)
10 Km east of Nigde
Nigde, Turkey

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