Cappadocia Journals

Away With The Fairies

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An August 2009 trip to Cappadocia by Liam Hetherington

In Love Valley Photo, Goreme, Turkey More Photos
Quote: Falling under the spell of the fantasy landscape of Cappadocia. Wherein we encounter fairies, dragons, troglodytes, goblins and nymphs...

Goreme

Goreme

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Story/Tip

Cappadocia Photo, Cappadocia, Turkey
Quote:
Over the last twenty years or so, Göreme (pronounced ‘Gorr-eh-may") has boomed. Once just a small farming community it has become probably the prime backpacker site in Turkey. Long distant buses roar into to the town square of the village direct from Istanbul. Ankara and the coast. The main – in fact only – street is lined with bars, juice stands, and cafes. Touts advertise horse riding, quad biking, hot air ballooning, and two day tours to Nemrut Dağ. It reminded me of a built-up inland version of Dahab in Egypt – except without the benefit of the Red Sea to draw the punters.So what does draw them in? Three things. The first is the quite remarkable landsca...Read More

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Goreme Open Air Museum

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Attraction | "Unique Rock-Cut Churches; Early Christian Frescoes"

Goreme Open Air Museum Photo, Goreme, Turkey
Quote:
St Paul brought Christianity to Cappaocia. And here it flourished. Isolated n its rugged terrain the Cappadocian Christians formed a flourishing community. They excavated their churches and monasteries from the soft grey tuff and decorated thm with pigments and dyes produced locally from natural ingredients. Up until the 1920s these churches still catered for Greek Orthodox celebrants. But now, by and large, the Christians have gone, and the churches are empty. Except for the tourists. These remarkable churches, dug out of the rock and with their frescoes still vivid have proved to be a wonderful tourist attraction. And the largest concentration of theme lies a mere mile up the...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Goreme Open Air Museum
1 Mile Outside Goreme
Goreme, Turkey

Kapadokya Balloons

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Attraction | "Flying With The Fairies"

Kapadokya Balloons Photo, Goreme, Turkey
Quote:
Göreme is a backpacker town. It is used to late nights and late breakfasts. So why then was I fully dressed and waiting for a minibus at 5.15 in the morning? And why had I paid 350TL (around £175) for the privilege?Hot air balloons.There has always been something majestic about these graceful giants floating overhead. It had been something I had always wanted to experience for myself. And Cappadocia is reknowned as one of the most amazing places in the world to go for a balloon ride. It was pricey, and it meant an early start, but there was no way I could pass up an opportunity to fly lighter-than-air above the fairy chimneys of Göreme.There are numerous conc...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Kapadokya Balloons

Goreme, Turkey
+90 (384) 271 2442

Walnut House

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Hotel | "Walnut House - Secluded in the Heart of Town"

Walnut House Photo, Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin
Quote:
Walnut House manages an almost impossible feat. It manages to feel secluded whilst actually being located slap-bang in the middle of Göreme. The otogar (bus station) and travel agencies are about a minute walk away across the main road. Another minute and you come to the start of the main strip of bars and restaurants. A shaded front garden leads to the simple traditional-style bulding. In the spacious and homey lobby you will find reception and couches for lounging on. Breakfast is also served here. There is an alcove with a PC for free internet access; if you have your own computer there is Wi-fi. Laundry can be arranged too. Be aware that you will have to share the lobby with Wal...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Walnut House
Zeybek Sok
Goreme, Turkey
+90 (384) 271 2235

Dibek Traditional Home Cook

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Restaurant | "Dibek for Authentic Traditional Rural Turkish Cuisine"

Dibek Traditional Home Cook Photo, Goreme, Turkey
Quote:
So much of Göreme has sprouted up in the last twenty years that it is a real joy to find somewhere with a bit of history. Dibek fits that bill perfectly. Here you dine in a 475 year-old building. The restaurant was formerly a stable-block, and you can still see the wooden stalls and assorted other paraphenalia. You may even be able to spot an actual dibek - a traditional mixing bowl like a large pestle. The tables are low, and diners sit cross-legged on cushions after leaving your footware in the corridor.The food here is good old-fashioned Turkish country fare. If you want burgers and chips there are plenty of other places for those in Göreme! Probably the most famouse dish ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Dibek Traditional Home Cook
Hakki PaÅŸsa Meydani 1
Goreme, Turkey
+90 384 271 2209

Fat Boys Bar

Restaurant | "Fat Boys - Backpacker Central"

Quote:
With a prime position on the main drag, Fat Boys is backpacker central. The owner (Fat Boy) is a local who once moved to Australia; he and his Australian wife now run the joint together. As such it has rapidly become a home-from-home for the many Australians passing through Göreme. Australian sports pennants hang off the walls, and there are pool tables – at night it gets raucous with a party crowd. I found it a decent place to visit in the day though. It serves good comfort food like chips and dips. Their bowls or nachos are massive, and their homemade hamburgers are a pretty decent size too! As a change from the usual fruit juices that are sold everywhere in town for about ...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Fat Boys Bar

Goreme, Cappadocia
(902) 429-8666

Central Cappadocia

Derinkuyu Underground City

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Attraction | "Derinkuyu - Troglodytes or Goblins?"

Derinkuyu Underground City Photo, Cappadocia, Turkey
Quote:
Half way between Göreme and Niğde you will find a small town called Derinkuyu ("Deep well"). There are souvenir stores and tour buses – seemingly more than the hamlet could possibly hold. But this holds the most remarkable site in all of Cappadocia. Because buried beneath your feet lies an entire city – a city constructed underground!Whether it was to escape religious persecution, or simply to hide from bandits and armies, the people of Derinkuyu decided to carve a labyrinthine network of chambers and passages from the soft tuff rock below their farmsteads. As time went on this complex gre to be more and more elaborate, stretching down some eleven levels to a depth of 85 metres...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Derinkuyu Underground City
Derinkuyu
Cappadocia, Turkey

Ihlara Valley

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Attraction | "Enchanted by the Nymph of Ihlara Valley"

Ihlara Valley Photo, Cappadocia, Turkey
Quote:
The ancients firmly believed in the genius loci, or spirit of places. Their personification would be nymphs – nymphs of the forest, nymphs of the mountain, nymphs of the trees and of the streams and the springs. And walking in the Ihlara Valley I found myself thinking along the same lines. It was a magical place. I could definitely believe that this tranquil trickling brook could have its own associated naiad splashing among the overhanging trees.The Ihlara Valley is a great green gash in the otherwise semi-arid Cappadocian plateau. Over the years the little tinkling Melendiz has incised its way down through the soft tuff, carving a canyon disproportionately large for such a ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Ihlara Valley
Cappad
Cappadocia, Cappadocia

Nigde

Hotel Sahiner

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Hotel | "Niğde and the Otel Şahiner"

Hotel Sahiner Photo, Cappadocia, Turkey
Quote:
According to the Rough Guide to Turkey "the small provincial town of Niğde has few remaining monuments of any great interest" – it is "little more than a landmark on the Kayseri-Adana road".This is very unfair to Niğde. I may only have been staying for one night but I personally thought that Niğde was a perfectly lovely little city. With good transport connections, Niğde forms the southern gateway to Cappadocia. As a bustling and seemingly prosperous place in its own right and with good amenities like banks, pharmacies, hotels and restaurants it does warrant a closer inspection. It is handy for several of the sites of southern Cappadocia, thereby saving you the hassle of goin...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Hotel Sahiner
Ziraat Bankasi KarÅŸisi, NiÄŸde
Cappadocia, Turkey
+90 (388) 232 21 21

Eski Gumus (The Monastery of Gumusler)

Attraction | "Eski Gumusler and the Rediscovered Monastery"

Eski Gumus (The Monastery of Gumusler) Photo, Cappadocia, Turkey
Quote:
Much like the churches in Göreme Open-Air Museum, the Eski Gümüşler Monastery is another religious foundation carved from the rock itself. Just 6 miles east of Niğde this monastery was supposedly only rediscovered in 1963. I find that hard to believe. Are we meant to believe that the villagers of Gümüşler didn’t know there was an old monastery just up the path through the cherry orchards? But whether you believe the story or not, a trip out is highly recommended if you are in the Niğde area.Your entrance fee (3TL) lets you into a rock-cut passage which debouches into a main courtyard, open to the sky above. Chambers hollowed out of the tuff stretch off on several levels to either si...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on January 9, 2010

Eski Gumus (The Monastery of Gumusler)
10 Km east of Nigde
Nigde, Turkey