The Costa del Sol - My Mediterranean Favorite

This beach strip, often referred to as the Spanish Riviera, is lined with resort towns offering everything from deluxe hotels to inexpensive pensiones. Regardless of where you stay, there's an abundance of Excursion Companies offering day trips to Seville, Cordoba, Granada, Ronda, Malaga, Rock of Gibraltor, Tangiers, and a number of lesser known destinations allowing travelers to plan their vacation within the trip itself.

A trip to Costa del Sol wouldn't be complete without visiting one of the many hillside towns with their whitewashed structures. Mijas, covered in this journal, and Casares are two of the popular ones.

Andalucian Spaniards are a rugged, hard working and playing, hospitable bunch that came closest to my ideals of what the Spanish would be like...and which weren't found in Madrid, Barcelona or other parts of the country. Here is also a favored playground for the British who've left their own influences over the years as businesses and people strive to cater to them.

There something soothing and romantic; all but mystifying about so-called "Life on the Mediterranean" and the Costa del Sol definitely fulfilled it's roll. And for shell collector's, the beaches were the biggest jackpot I've ever came across!

Quick Tips:

Would you believe per person!?! Independent or escorted package deals are readily available for purchase in the United States. Read this journal's entry for specific details.

Protected by mountain ranges, the Costa del Sol is treated to mild climates year round including my off-season March visit when a light jacket wasn't even needed of an evening. The sun was intense though waters in the Sea and pools still too cool for swimming. If you're fair skinned, sunscreens are a necessity and be advised of potential wind burns, too.

Establishments and people highly advised drinking only bottled water.

With the dominance of British tourists, English is widely spoken.

For budget travelers, I'm not sure what impact the Eurodollar will have, but you can't go wrong with the Spanish peseta. Overall, things are VERY inexpensive.

What's a trip to Spain without a bullfight, right? Well my first will be my last and the "Bum Steer" journal entry tells why.

I'm not a golfer, but you can't miss the coast is "littered" with extravagant golf courses said to be the best in Spain and some of all of Europe. Information repeatedly indicated play is rather expensive.

Best Way To Get Around:

Malaga International Airpot is the largest in Andalucia and where you'll likely arrive. It's quite the distance to any/everything, but if you're staying between Malaga and Fuengirola, there's no need for a cab. When exiting the terminal, take a right and continue some distance. You'll see a series of bridges to your left which span gardens and the interstate. On the far side is a RENFE train making numerous stops between the two cities mentioned. It's less than . However, there were no luggage carts available, but the loaded down walk is worth the savings.

In Malaga, RENFE line connects with Spain's major rail system.

Endless fleets of motorcoach buses flood the coastal highways shuttling tourists between destinations. For the more adventurous, independent and international car rental agencies were easily found for those wishing to further explore on their own.

Local bus lines frequently ply the roads between towns/villages and were another inexpensive way for getting around. Only since the late 60's was a road built into the town of Mijas allowing buses/cars access. Before that, it was only by donkey...of which many are still kept for getting around the mountainous village.

With 280 rooms and 40 suites, Hotel Las Piramides is rated a 4-Star deluxe hotel situated on Paseo Maritimo across from the beach. As a budget traveler, I''ve nothing to compare this place too and never would have stayed here if not for the package deal.

Likely built in the late 70''s/early 80''s, two 14-story wings are capped with miniature pyramid shapes seen from most places within the town. The name might suggest Egyptian, but the inner decor was definitely overstated, outdated Spanish...like the gaudy Conquistador-era replicas I''ve seen in...well, never mind. Actually, I found the stuff quite humorously interesting, but for this place it seemed appropriate in a sterile sort of way.

It was great waking up, planting bare feet on the coolness of stone-tiled floor, hitting the mini-coffee maker, and enjoying the first cup of the day on a balcony which each room had. They claim all have Mediterranean views...which they do if you lean far enough out! Otherwise, it''s what you''d expect when staying in a nice place: full desk/room/maid service and a variety of Spanish/European television channels.

The hotel had two seperate restaurants not including the breakfast buffet room where package tourists dined. There''s also a piano bar, disco tech, and ballroom with live orchestra on the weekends; all with an intersting mix of dancing between the reserved British and extroverted Spanairds. Outside are well tended gardens to relax in as well as tennis courts and a swimming pool...though the beach is right across the street. The hotel can make arrangements for fishing, boating, horseback riding, and golf.

My wildest memory associated with here was a midafternoon by the pool in the sun trying to resurrect from a lunch pitcher of Sangria. This group of British girls (all old enough to be my grandmother) took the chairs next to me and immediately began with the small talk chatter while stripping down (literally) and oiling up. So that''s why America is so uptight about the topless thing? I tried to act normal without laughing or appearing freaked out. Luckily, the icy cold water of the pool revived me to my senses.

* If arriving on the RENFE, take a cab to get your bearings but you''ll quickly realize the station''s within walking distance of the hotel.

If traveling through a package deal, outside dining opportunities can be limited despite the trip not being all-inclusive. Breakfast was included at the hotel with my package and the daily buffet had a large assortment of meats, eggs, fruits, cereals, and breads/pastries along with juices and milk. Loading up on this kind of erased the need for lunch.

When taking scheduled day excursions, the main meal was usually included within the price. For early departures, motorcoaches converged on a roadside truck stop where quick breakfasts of coffee and pastries were less than $3. The return trips home also included a stop at the same establishment.

In Fuengirola, a traveler need look no further than the Paseo Maritimo for other meals; especially when it came to the Las Vegas-style food buffets for 750 pesetas; roughly under $5.00. Every kind of Andalucian and Mediterranean foods imaginable were prepared and served, but I especially remember gorging on the gazpacho, fried calamari rings, and custards/flans. Several of these buffet-type establishments lined the Paseo. With a late breakfast and early dinner, there wasn't much need for more.

For snacks or lighter portions, there were Tapas bars along the beach and strip. For a real taste of local flavor, stop by one of the beach-side vendors where they serve up a plate of sardines smoked over an open fire for under $2. For those wanting dining experiences, most places didn't open until late and as likely expected, fish & chips and warm ale dominated menus along with Paella; the popular Spanish dish discussed in my Mijas entry and Barcelona journal.

Another regional specialty is the sweet Spanish Sangria wine made with a blend of red wine, 7-up, fruits and their juices and sugar. Experience has taught me that even one glass is enough for a mild headache. Since you know it's coming, you might as well indulge to the fullest and enjoy the best you can.

There were several smaller shops along the Paseo and a larger supermarket close to the hotel good for buying snacks and bottled water to take back to the hotel provided you weren't looking to rack-up a bill with the full roomservice options.

I didn't have opportunity to check out local food markets as I like doing, but what I saw inside the main Tangiers' market made up for the rest! For as primitive as the areas were, they were suprisingly clean and enhanced by aromas from the various spices and mounds of olives. As for the fresh poultry, seen in this entry's photos, I'm not sure what suprised me more - the way they had them displayed or the fact they weren't covered with flies. It somewhat reminded me of the fresh food stalls behind the Mercado Modelo discussed in My Santo Domingo, DR journal except there they can't pluck them fast enough.

While this might not be the appropriate category, numerous travel agencies specializing in trips to Spain/Portugal/Morocco run tempting off-season ads in the Travel Section of the NYTimes and other city's newspapers, but prices quoted are for NY departures only.

January thru March, you can get round-trip airfare, 6 nights in a deluxe hotel (the 7th night spent on the flight over), and daily breakfast for $595 per person double occupany. Depending on the agent, timeframe also dictates which coastal town and hotel you'll stay in. However, I was not hallucinating when seeing $595 for the first week and an additional $100 per extra 7 days with up to 4 week stays in aparthotels. Yes, that's $895 per person for 4 weeks on the Costa del Sol!!! With deals like this, time - not money are the determining factors.

I booked this trip with a Miami agency no longer in business, but similar ads continue to run. My trip departed NYC's JFK on Iberia Airlines and connected in Madrid for Malaga. With emergence of Air Europa to break Iberia's monopoly of Spain, competing airlines continue driving prices down. Everytime I see one of these ads, I'm tempted to postpone my "yet to see in Europe" travel destination list to return to this favored area which still has so much I've "yet to see".

Once at your hotel, your package also includes service to an inhouse travel agent for booking daily excursions which ranged from $35-$110. Pick-up/drop-off was at the hotel, transportation and the main meal included on most trips. Budget travelers looking to conserve cash might find cheaper, though less convenient, services from many independent agencies in the area.

Potential travelers not in the NYC area would be wise to book the package and a seperately rated flight to JFK. A New York departure was much cheaper than from Miami.

A bonus I wasn't expecting was arriving at JFK to find a flamenco combo and reception set up in the departure area. I lucked out making Iberia's inaugural Airbus 300 flight from NYC to Madrid...and the celebration was on! With the company's execs on board, the on-flight party lasted most of the night; passengers also given numerous momentos. I've since learned Iberia gives many extras without need to celebrate. As a One World partner with American Airlines for milage accrual, they've became my favored, highly recommended European airline.

Located halfway between Malaga and Marbella, Fuengirola is also in the middle of social atmosphere compared to Marbella's elite extravagance to Malaga's southern ghetto's which spill into Torremolinos - a plain bedroom community wannabe resort town. Founded by the Romans, Fuengirola developed into a fishing magnet for the Costa del Sol area and has a history second only to Malaga's for the coast. Unfortunately, there's not much with historical emphasis to see and unless actually staying here, I'm not sure Fuengirola is a place you'd likely stop.

Tourism has allowed the town to boom; especially along the Paseo Maritimo which runs for a 4+-mile strip with beach on one side, and any/all business catering to tourists lining the other. Expansion has linked into the nearby coastal villages of Los Boliches and Carvajal which the RENFE tran stops in before terminating in Fuengirola. These areas are also divided down the middle by the main coastal highway; obviously with more to see/do seaside.

The Paseo Maritimo is definitely the pulse of the area lined with hotels, restaurants, shops, and everything you'd expect for a tourist mecca. Follow the promenade passed the large harbor area to get a sense of what importance fishing still plays in the town. And on both sides of the harbor, miles and miles of beach! Vendors rent chairs, cabana tents, etc. but heed this blessing that's also a curse. The beaches are so littered with shell fragments that walking barefoot can be treacherous.

Once you come inland from the sea, Fuengirola relaxes into the sleepy village that it is. Architectural styles warmed my heart with familiar similarities to Old San Juan & Santo Domingo. Centrally located next to the tourism bureau is the typical small plaza and church. Outdoor cafes are the norm along tiled sidewalks and alleys. And a variety of shops practice the 2:00-4:00 p.m. siesta. Beautiful small homes with immaculately kept lawns line many of the side streets. These were the Fuengirola travel perks you likely wouldn't have reason to come looking for, but will surely find reagardless of how capitalistic the Paseo becomes.

Other unique Fuengirola attractions I didn't have time to explore include the Costa del Sol's only zoo, Sohail Castle - ruins of a 10th century Moorish stronghold, and southern Spain's largest and liveliest flea market held on Tuesday and Saturday mornings.

While I all but loathe the mass-herdings which take place in group excursions, I WOULD NOT recommend coming to Tangiers without security of being escorted. After an early morning pick-up and breakfast at a highway truckstop, groups depart by hydrofoil from Algeciras port for the 90+-minute ride across Gibraltor Strait to Africa's northern coast. You'll need passport and all travel documents.

Once clearing a strenuous customs check, our group was whisked away by van to southern outskirts of Tangiers with inspiring views back towards Spain...and foretaste of what was to come from impoverished vendors trying to hawk goods and camel rides. I was suprised at how lush and greent these surrounding areas were on this, my first visit to Africa.

The ride back included stopping at a former Mosque-turned-palace surrounded by sheer poverty EVERYWHERE! Hordes of agressive children followed us begging for money, candy. Heavily armed military guards were abundant no matter where you looked. I'm still not sure if the van driver got lost or purposefully wanted us to see the nature of things in his country as we continued to ride through the back street communities that looked like war zones.

We were next given a whirlwind tour of the Kasbah (covered seperately) and a tour of the city market (photos appear in the Dining In General entry). We had a late Moroccan lunch as part of the excursion which consisted of meat kabobs, cous cous and vegetables. A tantilizing belly dancer provided entertainemt...of course, for tips.

A small period was given to look around and "shop" with only enough time to quickly snag some postcards; Spanish pesetas are accepted. And that was it! I remember fighting a nap on the boat ride back simply trying to process all I'd just taken in during this bonanza of adventure. Most of me was wishing I could've seen and done more, but somehow all but relieved I didn't. To this day, there's still a mixed bag of emotions towards an opporuntiy I took advantage of yet still missed out on.

As a potential future traveler of this excursion, don't take these writings as potential warnings not to go. Simply mentally prepare yourself...and don't go without an escort! Other than Tangiers, there's also an excursion offered to Cueta; a city on the northern African coast that Spain still claims. I look forward to checking here out when I next return.

In all honesty, I remember the song from the 80's but had no idea what a/the Kasbah was! Talk about a crash course, hands-on lesson!!!

The Kasbah is the oldest part of the city securely located within fortress walls. For those familiar with Lisbon's Alfama District, there's some comparisons with the compactness and hilly terrains with lots of stairs. But the majority of Tangiers' residencial Kasbah appeared all but abandoned, much dirtier and ran down and certainly didn't have a welcoming feeling.

The walled city can only be entered thru less than half-dozen Arabic styled portals - and from there, the race was on and perhaps not solely for keeping to schedule. I felt like we were in Pamplona, Spain being chased, but there weren't any bulls. Only rude, agressive street hawkers/vendors who were even intimidating to this New Yorker who's used to shaking them off daily. Of course their impoverished conditions magnify their relentlessness to make a sale. And for those not used to dealing with the likes, they were easily targeted prey.

After racing quite the distance thru the narrow, maze like streets where photo opps are very limited, we entered a large courtyard area where stood a large Muslim mosque. Listening to the tour guide's informational monologue here and throughout the Kasbah was all but lost. While in the courtyard, I bypassed the snake charmer routine to check out a nearby rack of postcards which would be the only "free" opportunity for shopping while within.

As we neared more of the business district, the streets became wider yet congested with locals and MANY more tourist groups. The atmosphere picked up with things abuzz in the interesting open-air shops selling everything imaginable like you'd find in New York's Chinatown...but we weren't allowed to stop. Our only potentials to make purchases was in an overpriced Persian rug store and a spice/herbal goods store - where tour guides were commissioned to bring us and listen to their pitch. Our group stood in front of both places like punished school children waiting for the previous group to finish so we could enter. Unfortunately, that was the extent of our visit to the Kasbah.

Something about this experience didn't and still doesn't feel right. New York is always full of tourists gawking at our everday lives, but here the shoe was on the other foot and these people's lives all but depended on it. I might have been to the Kasbah, but I certainly didn't experience it like I'm used to poking around on my own. Trouble is, I'm not sure I would've or could've even with the opportunity unless I had a local friend. Otherwise, your rushed/blurred escorted tour's as good as it's going to get!

Centrally located in the older part of the city, La Manquita is the name given to Malaga's main Cathedral though it refers to a one-armed lady. No, she's not a patronness saint but it's a hint for this landmark's most distinguishable feature. Construction began in the 16th century on the site of an old Arab mosque, but work on the structure was halted by pending war...and never completed. On the facade, the right corner has it's spiring bell tower. The left one doesn't; hence the name.

There's a small admission fee worth the opportunity to check out this masterpiece of architecture and art; entry is from the side. The main worship area is enclosed while cavernous domed hallways line the sides. Numerous smaller chapels contain paintings, sculptures and enough other works of art to make this all but more of a museusm experience than found in most Cathedrals. Most memorable was the painting of the beheading of John the Baptist seen in this entry's photos.

I was privileged for a musical selection from the monstrous pipe organ whether by random performance or luck. And as in most of Europe's grand cathedrals, the chance to sit and relax in the coolness while resting and reflecting was most welcomed. When entering or leaving, older ladies are present in the side garden area selling their handmade tableclothes and linens worth more than their smiles and prices they're asking.

When leaving, make sure to check out the facade with it's three separate entry ways ornately adorned with columns, colored marble, mosaic tiles and carved wooden doors. Directly across the way also centered around a small fountain is another impressive but smaller orange-hued Cathedral with a triple stacked level of porticos with ground level being the main entry, second level being a "Mussolini-type" balcony, and the third enshrining a statue. Located anywhere else within the city, this would definitely be impressive but all but looses it's limelight in the shadows of the Grand Cathedral. It wasn't open for viewing at the time.

Easily linked by the RENFE line, Malaga was a great chance to freely explore on my own though escorted group excursions are available for those wanting them. The train station is located in the southern central part of the city. As long as you know what's there and what you're looking for, a map wasn't necessary as directions to sites were clearly marked with street signs.

Of most historical value is THE ALCAZABA fortress built by the Moors in the 9th century on a hilltop previously occupied by the Phoenicians and later the Romans. At the base of the structure are ruins from a Roman amphitheatre which dates to the 2nd century A.D. The entire area was under obviously stalled renovations so great, I never found where to pay to enter and proceeded anyway. The ancient walls, rooms, gardens and pathes within The Alcazaba weren't nearly as impressive as the elevated views around Malaga from climbing the hill. A castle turned paradore is at the top and unreachable via The Alcazaba.

On the seaside of the hill, you'll see many beautiful parks and plazas leading up to the Malaga bullfighting ring. The best elevated views for these areas, Malaga's harbor and the sea are from the park at the base of the hillside. Follow the overgrown and abandoned trail passed rows of deserted buildings to reach a "look-out" point well worth the effort. Those allergic to cats might proceed cautiously as the area was overran by strays and stunk to high heaven!

Downtown Malaga was alive with the hustle and bustle of a small city with a laid back atmosphere. Pedestrianized streets lined with shops were narrow blocking out the sun, but when the areas widen, be sure to check out the various styles of architectural designs I've seen no where else in Spain. Also in the downtown area is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso which was closed for major renovations to convert the building into a museum. And for those like myself who like to go looking around, I found some rougher, seedier areas just north and east of the central areas. You could tell they weren't used to seeing tourists.

This trip was in 3/96 and that day in downtown Malaga, a small gypsy lady placed a flower in my hand and read my palm before I knew what was going on. I tried to be polite...she insisted I pay her. I gave the flower back...she put a "curse" on me. Asked if I was expected to pay for that, too? Well, I didn't but I'm still here!

Located just above Fuengirola is the quaint village of Mijas who's done an excellent job on not missing out on the tourist boom while retaining it's cultural charm and flavor. Most obvious was keeping their large and colorfully decorated fleet of "donkey taxis" which provided the only way in/out of this enclave until the late 60's. Now it's a convenient, inexpensive public bus ride from the coast below.

The village beautifully displays itself built in layers ascending the mountain. You'll immediately notice that all the buildings are whitewashed but find how unique each are when taking a closer look. Aside from the various shapes and miniature balconies, owners have distinguished their homes and businesses with decorations of flower pots, metal works, statues, fountains and other items that enhanc the Spanish flavor. Decoratively tiled sidewalks run through most of the village.

Situated cliffside is the Virgen de la Pena sanctuary; an over-done little chapel located inside a small cave after the original location inside a monastery toppled over the side from erosion. Closer to the 100-year old bull fighting ring is the early 17th century Church of the Immaculate Conception which incorporated a former castle's bell tower into the current structure. A festival in honor of the patron saint occurs in early September including on the dawn of 9/8 when bullrunning through the narrow streets takes place.

Mijas is a wonderful place to simply relax and enjoy in a sense without so much "to see", but definitely a place "to be". The village is also full of little parks and gardens and walking trails which offer vistas from the mountainside location. There were many sidewalk, balcony and patio cafes serving paella, the Spanish dish of rice, saffon, seafoods and meats. Mijas also had a large variety of shops offering handcrafted wood and leather goods at reasonable prices - not tourist junk!

The village also prides itself on it's recreatiion opportunities whether rock climbing or hang gliding from the mountain or boating and yachting from the coast below. Mijas also has a golf and tennis resort as well as a large water park.

So much for romanticizing Spain's passion for bullfighting! My first experience in the village of Mijas will likely be my last. I'd calculated my visit there on the last day of my trip solely for seeing one of these heralded events. Posters were plastered all around Fuengirola below. My anticipation rose when visiting the Museo Taurino with bullfighting history and memorabilia from Mijas and the country.

I didn't think the ticket counters would ever open and since this was my first, it had to be the best! I paid 8000 pesetas/approximately $50 for a front row seat on the sunny side and then anxiously awaited for the stadium to open. I was one of the first one's in not wanting to miss any of the typical action that would unfold all around me. Was I in for a bust or what?

The stadium itself was rather small and plain compared to the grand Plaza de Toros I'd seen in Malaga. People began streaming in; an obvious major social event for their culture. I got a kick out of the small band assembled on their special balcony to provide music like some half-rate high school pep band. Perhaps there wasn't the grand pomp and show of display thru the opening ceremonies. I was also suprised that these bannered matadores didn't look like they were out of their teens.

With the trumpet fanfare ushering in the first round, the gate swung open...and out trotted a scrawny steer likely less than two-years old. EXCUSE ME!?! The animal was obviously scared to death and tired quickly sending ring assistants into action simply to keep it moving. It was panting heavily and cried out everytime pierced with one of the decorative daggers. There was no sport or contest from what I saw, but the crowds raucously cheered just the same. I thought maybe that was just the warm-up round with three more to follow. I was wrong!

I may be a New Yorker, but I was a midwest countryboy first and what I saw this day was clearly animal torture at an event that was even more amatuer than county rodeo's back home. This blew any of my preconceived notions/ideals of bullfighting simply out of the water. I ended up not taking many photos from the prime seat I'd paid for and still can't believe I felt compelled to sit thru the entire event. I've since read Spanairds, excluding Barcelonans/Catalunyans who think the practice barbaric, are raised conditioned to see the bull as like the dreaded boogey man...kind of like city dwellers relish the extermination of rats/roaches.

It's my understanding this was simply the preaseason and the "real" bullfighting runs summer into late fall. If you're set on seeing one, I highly suggest waiting until then when the event's in a real stadium, with a real matador, and a "real" bull that's got half a chance!

With all the famous Spanish sites around, I still don't remember why I settled on a group excursion to the Rock of Gibraltor, but I've got to believe there were better ways to spend money and limited time. Aside from actually being on this controversial British-claimed peninsula, the views are just as good passing along the highway to other destinations.

One of the first misnomers comes from the American Insurance Company's "Get a piece of the Rock" slogan and emblem which has the rock backwards. Gibraltor has a rolling slope into the sea while the highest peak with the sheer drop-off faces the mainland and the tiny airstrip tourists had to walk across after clearing customs. (Yes, you need passport and travel documents for here, too!) There's no love lost between the Brits and Spanish and even after Franco's death, the border remained sealed until the mid-80's leaving travelers to only arrive by plane or boat.

The town nestled along the western base of the mountain had about as much crammed into a small place as nature AND man could allow. The streets were heavily congested with standstill traffic and pedestrians. We were given free time to look around in this VAT-free shopper's haven. Trouble was, everything was priced expensively according to the British pound not to mention import tarriffs...even if it was only tourist junk. We were also on our own for lunch which was steeper than foods across the border.

Our group was shuttled by van for the rest of the tour which began at Our Lady of Europa shrine on the farthest tip of the peninsula. Clouds and smog made the mountain peaks of northern Africa barely detectable, but one clear distinguishable feature was seeing the unstated boundaries of where the blue Mediterranean clashes with the green Atlantic. Next was a quick tour of St. Michael's cave just short of the Rock's ridge. This natural wonder has been used over the years strategically for military posts and storage and now contains an indoor, under"rock" amphitheatre where concerts are held with perfect accoustics.

No trip to Gibraltor would be complete without a visit to see the Barbary Apes which are a scournful reminder to Spanairds. Supposedly, the British have long-maintained they will only stay in Gibraltor as long as the apes do. And according to our travel host, they go to great means to insure the apes' health and safety including an entire separate wing in the military hospital that's been set aside for their veterinary care. The apes were far from shy but appeared spoiled and tempermental. Signs warned to be cautious near them which most tourists foolishly ignored.

The ride back down the mountain included passing by what's left of the Moorish Castle ruins built by the Arabs in 1333 and loaded with pock-marks from numerous cannonballs and attacks over the years. We were dropped off having to cross the runway again and clear customs before dispersing fellow travelers back along the coast.