"...And The Imam Fainted!"

Ramadan

Best Of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Ain't No Party Like A Ramadan Party Photo - Istanbul, Turkey

Quote:

Ramadan (or Ramazan as it is known in Turkish) is one of the most important dates in the Islamic calendar. During this month adherents are to abstain from food, drink, smoking and having sexual relations during daylight hours. My entire stay in Turkey happened to fall within Ramadan. What does this mean to the traveller?At first I was worried about how this would affect me. With the start of Ramadan falling in August in 2009 (as the Islamic calandar is based on lunar cycles holy days vary from year to year) I was not relishing the thought of having to eat breakfast before dawn (say around 4.30am) and then not being able to eat again until dusk (8.00pm). However, whilst Turkish peopl...Read More

Ramadan (or Ramazan as it is known in Turkish) is one of the most important dates in the Islamic calendar. During this month adherents are to abstain from food, drink, smoking and having sexual relations during daylight hours. My entire stay in Turkey happened to fall within Ramadan. What does this mean to the traveller?

At first I was worried about how this would affect me. With the start of Ramadan falling in August in 2009 (as the Islamic calandar is based on lunar cycles holy days vary from year to year) I was not relishing the thought of having to eat breakfast before dawn (say around 4.30am) and then not being able to eat again until dusk (8.00pm). However, whilst Turkish people are, on the whole, Muslim, the state of Turkey itself is constitutionally secular. As such Ramadan did not seem to be embraced quite as fervently as it did elsewhere (in Syria for example). But even then, as a guest in their country you would be granted a certain amount of leeway – I doubt anyone anywhere would take offence at a sweltering tourist struggling in the heat and taking sips at a bottle of water. Indeed, according to the Koran travellers are spared the dictates of the fast just as are the ill and the pregnant.

As for the other parts of the fast, it varies where you are. You might be forced to fast ‘unofficially’ in some parts of the country, simply because restaurants and cafes are closed. This is more likely in smaller towns and in places away from the usual tourist trail. In Antakya and Niğde restaurants did seem to be mostly shut until sundown; in the backpacker mecca of Göreme every single eating establishment was open 24-7. Likewise I imagine that you would be able to pass a very comfortable fortnight in an Aegean or Mediterranean resort without realising that Ramadan was going on at all! And I also found that not only did motorway service stations still sell food, but the coach lines themselves distributed cups of water and slices of cake, the same as ever.

Istanbul is, as I’ve said elsewhere, a European city. Here more than most places a lot of the locals have a secular western outlook on life. So Ramadan should really not have an effect on your stay here at all. Restaurants, cafes and shops were open, bazaar hawkers encourged me to try their wares, the fish stalls in Eminönü were heaving with a predominantly local crowd. About the only negative that you would need to look out for is that come sunset there is a rush to eat; restaurants were packed at 8pm.

Conversely there are actually plus points to visiting Istanbul during Ramadan. The city authorities seemed to have put their glad-rags on for the occasion. Flags flew from posts, messages were picked out on mosque facades in fairy lights, and there was a craft fair running in Taksim Park. Best of all though was the fact that the Hippodrome was the hub of the party. Stalls down beside the Blue Mosque sold candy floss, pancakes, and sweets. The grass was thronged with picnickers. And the crowds were entertained by stiltwalkers, costumed actors, and toy salesmen. The good-natured press of the Istanbulus, the laughter and chatter, the clanging of bells on the sweetstalls, all came together to leave me with a fond and lasting memory of Ramadan in Istanbul. Read Less

Cheer!
Flag

Doy Doy

Restaurant | "Disappointing Doy Doy Dinner"

Quote:

I was disappointed by Doy Doy. I was expecting great things. It has a great location (in the maze of backstreets south of the Hippodrome), it is obviously popular, and (apologies if this influenced me) it had a stellar recommendation in my Rough Guide to Turkey. Bearing all that in mind it should have wowed me and my friends, rather than leaving me apologising for my choice of restaurant.The restaurant’s USP really is its roof terrace up on the fourth floor, facing out over the Blue Mosque. We had a bit of a wait to be seated, which was understandable – there were eleven of us, and we ha...Read More

Member Rating 2 out of 5 on November 22, 2009

Doy Doy
Sifa Hamami Sokak 13
Istanbul, Turkey
+90 (212) 51715 88

Cheer!
Flag

Tarihi Eminönü Balik Ekinek

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Thou Shalt Have a Fishy When The Boat Comes In..."

Fish, Fresh Off The Boat Photo - Tarihi Eminönü Balik Ekinek, Istanbul, Turkey

Quote:

One of the things you should do in Istanbul is to snack like a local. The premier place to do this IMHO is dockside in Eminönü. Just to the west of the Galata bridge you will find a number of places selling fried fish sandwiches. The sandwiches themselves are pretty plain – a fillet of white fish, a handful of salad, some bread, a sprinkling of salt and pepper, a splash of lemon juice. And the preparation does not seem to alter from one place to the next. But the draw here is the dining venues themselves.You can eat on the walk, or find a low table under one of the awnings. But the actual cooking takes place aboard ship. Each ‘restaurant’ is actually a small and highly o...Read More

One of the things you should do in Istanbul is to snack like a local. The premier place to do this IMHO is dockside in Eminönü. Just to the west of the Galata bridge you will find a number of places selling fried fish sandwiches.

The sandwiches themselves are pretty plain – a fillet of white fish, a handful of salad, some bread, a sprinkling of salt and pepper, a splash of lemon juice. And the preparation does not seem to alter from one place to the next. But the draw here is the dining venues themselves.

You can eat on the walk, or find a low table under one of the awnings. But the actual cooking takes place aboard ship. Each ‘restaurant’ is actually a small and highly ornate boat. The barges are lavishly carved, exotically-appointed, varnished a deep brown and highlighted in gilt. Neon signs are affixed to their domed pavillions; toy cannons adorn their foredecks. Midships is a large central grill, which is used to cook the fish. And the staff are just as ornate, with their gilt-braided caps and waistcoats and baggy cummerbunds.

I went to the nearest place to the bridge, which seemed to be called Tarihi Eminönü Balik Ekinek (though the boat itself seemed to be called Kalata-I Barbaros). The place was thronged with diners, mostly locals – mothers with children, office workers, young couples. Obviously Ramadan is not as rigorously observed in European Istanbul as it is in more Asian cities in Turkey. I got my fish sandwich, found a news-paper covered table, splashed on the lemon juice, and got stuck in. And it was a lovely bit of fish. You really don’t need to worry about hygiene issues here – eating street-food in a hot foreign climate usually seems to get western pulses beating nervously. The fillets are not boneless however, so I’d advise you to chew carefully!

For a mere couple of lira I don’t think you can go wrong with a fish sandwich fresh off the boat. It’s cheap, tasty, and you get to eat exactly the sort of grub that the locals have. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on November 22, 2009

Tarihi Eminönü Balik Ekinek
Eminönü Dockside (near the Galata Bridge)
Istanbul, Turkey

Cheer!
Flag

The North Shield Pub

Attraction | "A Scottish Sports Pub in Sultanahmet"

Quote:

The North Shield Pub is prominently located on a corner of Alemdar Caddesi, the main road and tram line down from Sirkeci to Sultanahmet. It’s not usually the sort of place I would look twice at, but – as ever – an important football match was coming up (Manchester United v Arsenal). And the outside notice boards of the pub are liberally plastered with notices of upcoming sports events – football, rugby, Formula 1, the works. And so I made a date to meet some friends here.The North Shield appears to be, not an Irish pub, but a Scottish pub. Yet this was pretty underplayed – a dark blue tartan carpet, a few discreet adverts for Scottish beers high up on the wall, a very good whisky selectio...Read More

The North Shield Pub is prominently located on a corner of Alemdar Caddesi, the main road and tram line down from Sirkeci to Sultanahmet. It’s not usually the sort of place I would look twice at, but – as ever – an important football match was coming up (Manchester United v Arsenal). And the outside notice boards of the pub are liberally plastered with notices of upcoming sports events – football, rugby, Formula 1, the works. And so I made a date to meet some friends here.

The North Shield appears to be, not an Irish pub, but a Scottish pub. Yet this was pretty underplayed – a dark blue tartan carpet, a few discreet adverts for Scottish beers high up on the wall, a very good whisky selection. Nor is it overly just a sports bar, despite the number of large TVs on the wall. In fact the atmosphere was fairly discreet. The large leather chairs and polished wood fittings made it seem more like some colonial gentlemen’s club. I really did feel coccooned away from the hubbub of Istanbul outside – which is maybe not want you want on holiday…

They have a range of beers on tap. I started off with a plain Turkish Efes, pilsener. However, as I drank this and scanned the menu I noticed an Efes Dark. Trying this proved it to be more of a bitter than the plain pilsener, or rather, more of a dunkel-style beer. It was certainly maltier than the normal brand, with a caramel-y flavour. One annoying thing was that there was a price listed for each beer in the menu (9TL for Efes, I think, with the Dark being a lira or two more expensive). However, I could not find out how to get the beer for that price. I was constantly charged an extra lira on top of that price no matter whether I ordered it from my table or went to the bar personally. I accept that the mnu may have been out of date, but if that is the case, correct it. As it was, the beer left a bitter taste in my mouth…

As you sit and drink the staff bring complimentary bowls of nuts and nibbles to your table. They also have a pub grub menu – burgers and the like. These were much more expensive than you would find out on the streets of Sirkeci. Still, it was a refreshing place to take an evening out and watch the football. It’s ‘theme’ was not rammed down our throats, and the atmosphere was lively but not raucous. Recommended with reservations…
Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on November 22, 2009

The North Shield Pub
Ebusuud Caddesi 2, Sultanahmet
Istanbul, Turkey
0212 527 0931

Cheer!
Flag

Ozler Restaurant

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Why Did The Imam Faint...?"

Quote:

Ibni Kemal Caddesi runs parallel to the main road (and tram line) of Nuradiye Hümav Caddesi between Sirkeci and Gülhane Park, and it is packed with restaurants. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I first went down this street. There must be at least half-a-dozen outlets with chairs and tables sprawling out into the street. I immediately attracted attention and was inviteds to come in by staff members from all of them. But there was no real pressure; I was free to cruise up and down the street, studying the fare on offer in the menus displayed.I wasn’t that hungry to tell the truth, and only wanted something light. And that was when I saw it: imam bayildi…If there was one di...Read More

Ibni Kemal Caddesi runs parallel to the main road (and tram line) of Nuradiye Hümav Caddesi between Sirkeci and Gülhane Park, and it is packed with restaurants. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I first went down this street. There must be at least half-a-dozen outlets with chairs and tables sprawling out into the street. I immediately attracted attention and was inviteds to come in by staff members from all of them. But there was no real pressure; I was free to cruise up and down the street, studying the fare on offer in the menus displayed.

I wasn’t that hungry to tell the truth, and only wanted something light. And that was when I saw it: imam bayildi…

If there was one dish I wanted to sample in Turkey it was imam bayildi. More so for the name than anything else: the name literally means "the imam fainted". Precisely why he fainted is cause for conjecture. Some say he fainted at the cost of ingredients, or the amount of olive oil used to make it. I prefer the story that he fainted because of how heavenly it tasted. Regardless, I had to try it!

The restaurant that had this on the menu was Özler – probably the largest, and definitely the one with the most charmingly persistent staff. It seemed impossible to go past without engaging in some gallantly witty banter. I was soon seated out on the street with a view of the television (showing a Bundesliga football match) and with a goblet of Efes. They certainly didn’t seem to think any the less of me when I just ordered a starter, and bustled away to rustle up my food.

I was served a braised aubergine, stuffed with a tomato and onion mixture, and topped with a partially melted rectangle of cheese. The dish does come cold, which had me wondering a little about precisely when it had been cooked, and how it had been stored since, but it tasted fine. The cheese, while a little off-putting when first viewed did add a touch of consistency to the otherwise quite soft stuffed aubergine. And on the whole I have to say that I quite enjoyed it.

Having polished off this most iconic of Turkish dishes, I then decided to follow it up with a plate of baklava. I think I either over-estimated the amount of space left in my stomach or under-estimated the size of the portion that would be served up. But I made a good stab at it. And these pieces managed to be both crisp and nutty as well as stickily sweet with syrup. The green pistachio filling really came out.

I could not tell you precisely how much I paid I’m afraid. What I can say is that it was well within my budget, and I did not begrudge a penny of it. So this imam could only have fainted at the taste, not the price…
Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on November 22, 2009

Cheer!
Flag

Asitane

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Wonderful Historic Ottoman Recipes Out In Edirnekapi"

Kirma Chicken Kebab Photo - Asitane, Istanbul, Turkey

Quote:

I would have to rate Asitane restaurant as serving up the best and probably most memorable meal I enjoyed in Turkey. This place would be a must-visit on every itinerary if it were not for one small issue – its location. Rather than being located in the thriving commercial centre of Beyoğlu or in amongst the historic (and touristy) wonders of Sultanahmet, this place is located a ten minute taxi ride west out in Edirnekapi.My argument would be to not let a ten min...Read More

I would have to rate Asitane restaurant as serving up the best and probably most memorable meal I enjoyed in Turkey. This place would be a must-visit on every itinerary if it were not for one small issue – its location. Rather than being located in the thriving commercial centre of Beyoğlu or in amongst the historic (and touristy) wonders of Sultanahmet, this place is located a ten minute taxi ride west out in Edirnekapi.

My argument would be to not let a ten minute, 10TL taxi ride put yiu off, as Asitane is well worth discovering. It is situated right next to St Saviour in Chora, a late Byzantine church with well-preserved mosaics and frescoes, so you can certainly use that as an excuse to head over. Though I am more inclined to say that you should use a meal here as the excuse to come across, and then have a look around the church as an after-dinner treat!

Asitane has a radically different menu to probably any other restaurant in Istanbul. It serves historic dishes from the golden age of the Ottoman court. Libraries and Imperial archives were scoured to find recipes and hints as to just what sort of meals the nobility would eat. These are then presented for your delectation. As you might expect, this makes it on the pricey side. But it is worth it.

I stopped by for a late lunch prior to touring the church. I was courteously seated in a lovely sun-dappled courtyard (there is also an indoor dining area). Pastel roses weaved out of the hedges and classical Turkish music tinkled lightly in the background. The entire ambiance was refined yet relaxing. The menu is not the largest in the world, but even so I still had difficulty deciding what to have – frankly, it all sounded rather gorgeous! A bottle of water was brought to the table, but I also ordered a lemon sherbet. I had heard of sherbets being drinks in the east, but only knew it myself as the fizzy powder. What I got was a cool, lightly effervescent lemony cordial, possibly one of the most refreshing drinks I have ever had.

For starter I asked for a dish dated from the 15th century, Shrimp Pilaki. This came as a small earthenware dish packed with a room-temperature broth of carrots, scallions, garlic and big meaty shrimps. I was actually surprised with the size and number of the shrimps included. My main course was the "Kirma" chicken kebab. These flame-grilled chicken fillets were served on a bed of sauteed onions and accompanied by pickled red cabbage. I don’t think this should have worked. But those Ottoman chefs really knew their stuff – the sweetness of the onion provided a wonderful (but not glaring) contrast with the sourness of the cabbage. In contrast the chicken itself was just very lightly seasoned, not overly-spiced as I might have expected from a city at the end of the Spice Route. A final accompaniment was the addition of two small kebabs of cherry tomatoes, small onions, red pepper and green chillis threaded onto skewers, which was a rather nice touch I thought.

I had been only intending to have two courses here, but frankly I had enjoyed my starter and main course so much I was lured back again to check out the desserts. After some umm-ing and aah-ing I requested a Fruit "Kaa". This was a great decision. Although I loved the first two dishes, I think this would have to be my stand-out memory. Nicely presented on a plate was a tomer of alternating peach halves and thick spongy layers of compressed and spiced walnuts. Frankly it tasted like a traditional mince pie, an unexpected taste of Christmas in the Turkish August sun!

As said, this was one of the most expensive meals I had in Turkey – probably cost about £35, which is not ideal when you are on the last day of holiday and trying to run down the currency you have already withdrawn and not have to go back to the bank. However, I would recommend it unreservedly. It has a pleasant (if slightly off-the-beaten-track) setting, the staff were uniformly smart, polite and efficient, and the food was not just delicious, but also unique and historical. A very worth-while detour out west to Edirnekapi!
Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on November 22, 2009

Asitane
Kariye Hotel, Kariye Camii Sok 18, Edirnekapi
Istanbul, Turkey
+90 (212) 534 8414

Cheer!
Flag

Doga Balik

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Not All It's Cracked Up To Be..."

Bass In Your Face Photo - Doga Balik, Istanbul, Turkey

Quote:

Last night of holiday and I wanted a memorable meal. I also wanted seafood (I hadn’t had any since I left Aqaba). A quick check of IgoUgo turned up recommendations for Doğa Balik. So off I went!Finding the place is not as easy as some others. It is located in the district of Cihangir, south of Istiklal Caddesi. The easiest way to get there is probably to head down Siraselviler Caddesi from Taksim Square, and then chuck a left when you reach Akarsu Yokusu Caddesi. Just down here on the left hand side of the street is the Zurich Hotel. Take the lift up to the...Read More

Last night of holiday and I wanted a memorable meal. I also wanted seafood (I hadn’t had any since I left Aqaba). A quick check of IgoUgo turned up recommendations for Doğa Balik. So off I went!

Finding the place is not as easy as some others. It is located in the district of Cihangir, south of Istiklal Caddesi. The easiest way to get there is probably to head down Siraselviler Caddesi from Taksim Square, and then chuck a left when you reach Akarsu Yokusu Caddesi. Just down here on the left hand side of the street is the Zurich Hotel. Take the lift up to the seventh floor. It is here that you will find Doğa Balik, one of the most celebrated fish restaurants in Turkey.

The restaurant has a balcony that looks south over the rooftops, over the Golden Horn, and over to the Topkapi Palace and the twinkling skyline of Sultanahmet. But if you want one of the tables with a view I think you will need to book in advance. I was sat inside on my own. And apart from the view the décor was actually pretty plain.

There was no menu. I hate that. Instead you have to choose what you want without knowing the prices – not ideal when it is the very last night of one’s holiday! For your main you can request a fish, which they will cook up for you according to your specifications – fried, grilled or poached. I asked for grilled sea bass (no need to make a perfectly healthy fish all oily by frying!). And in the meantime I could help myself to a plate of starters. Here in the chiller cabinet there were normal salady-type foods, as well as prawns, calimari, mackerel, whitebait etc. Again, no prices. So I helped myself.

The fish when it came was simply cooked, and equally simply served. Literally. A fish on a plate. With a bit of greenery at the side. Hardly the most impressive presentation I have ever come across. And yes, the fish was nice. But I could have done with a side plate to put the bones on.

When the bill came, it was a whopper – the equivalent of £35, just for a fish and a plate of appetisers. I paid as much as I had for my three course lunch, in a posh restaurant, with intricate and interesting historical menu options. Frankly, I felt swizzed.

So there you have it. Doğa Balik. An inconvenient location, good views, nice-enough food, and a surprisingly hefty bill. Not really somewhere I think I will be revisiting… Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on November 22, 2009

Doga Balik
Akarsu Yokuşu Caddesi No: 46
Istanbul, Turkey
+90 (212) 243 36 56

Cheer!
Flag

Hatay Hotel

Hotel | "Friendly Staff, Good Amenities, Great Location"

Quote:

Friendly staff, good amenities, great location; I would have to recommend the Hatay Hotel.I can’t find fault with the staff here. In particular the manager seemd to be about at all times of day and night to provide maps and advice. The main lobby, with its comfy chairs, wall-mounted plasma screen TV, and two free internet-access PCs was always immaculate. And the breakfast room across the street at the sister Antioch Hotel was always fully stocked with cereals, cheese and charcuterie, cordials and teas – certainly one of the best breakfast spreads I came across in my three weeks in the near east.My room was perhaps on the small size. But as I was not sharing a room that hardly ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on November 22, 2009

Hatay Hotel
Nobethane Caddesi Serdar Sokak 5/7, Sirkeci
Istanbul, Turkey
+90 (212) 527 0404

Cheer!
Flag

IgoUgo

Istanbul Journals

Upload Photos

Write a Review

Create a Trip Plan

Make a Journal

Ramadan

Doy Doy

Tarihi Eminönü Balik Ekinek

The North Shield Pub

Ozler Restaurant

Asitane

Doga Balik

Hatay Hotel

About the Writer

More Journals by Liam Hetherington

More Istanbul Journals

Istanbul Tips & Stories

Popular Istanbul Hotels