Things to Do in the Gorgeous Town of Positano

Known as Grottino Azzurro, the restaurant with the formal long name of Ristorante Il Grottino Azzurro Di Pollio Concetta, is a favorite among locals and tourists alike on the top of the hill in Positano. As prices on everything are quite steep in this beatiful Amalfian town, this family-owned restaurant is a breath of fresh air with their excellent prices, good service, and quality local cuisine.

Recommended to us by the manager of the hostel where we were staying just up the street, we arrived at Grottino Azzurro a bit late in the evening hoping to find a seat since we didn't make prior reservations. Luckily, even though there were people milling outside enjoying glasses of wine, and the inside was bustling with activity, there was a seat for two that they quickly led us to.

As they have a wine shop attached to the dining area, there is a good selection of wines available, as well as a tasty house wine which can be ordered by the whole or half carafe at a great price. We ended up enjoying very traditional dishes from the region from their small but fresh and tasty selection. All the dishes seemed very fresh and homemade, especially the pumpkin ravioli that I devoured.

The service was pretty friendly and the atmosphere was just what we were looking for...a bit of Italian chaos mixed with a family dining feel. There's no oceanview here, or inflated egos or prices...just good homemade food and great prices. And maybe a complimentary shot of limoncello for dessert.

• Open Thurs-Tues 12:30-3pm and 7:30-10pm; daily in summer
• Via Guglielmo Marconi 158
• Reservations recommended +39 089-87546

One of the most glamorous places to visit in Italy is the Almalfi Coast. Located a little south of Naples on the Mediterranean Sea, this area offers luxourious towns displayed on steep hillside settings. One of the Almalfi's jewels is the town of Positano. But besides being one of the most beautiful places to stay - it's also one of the most expensive.

Luckily, during our stay there, we found a lovely hostel at the top of the town to make reservations. The Hostel Brikette is Postiano's only hostel and as far as we could find in our research, the only somewhat affordable place to stay, as most of the hotels there are expensive even for a very basic room. If you're visiting Positano during the high season (March - November), and are on a budget, I definitely recommend staying at Hostel Brikette.

When we arrived off of the bus from Salerno just up the coast, after a couple train rides from Rome, it was just a short walk down the road from the main bus stop before we found the hostel. *Note that there are limited roads in Positano for cars, as the town is so steep and most "roads" are just staircases for pedestrians only. The lady running the place was very nice and gave us great recommendations for dining options around town. We were shown our room (a private double), which ended up having a private ensuite bathroom as well as a private balcony overlooking the ocean. It was quite amazing compared to the price.

In the mornings there was a breakfast buffet and open dining for the guests on the main balcony. You can't beat the view here, and as most hostels, you're bound to meet other friendly fellow travelers to converse with. This hostel definitely felt more like a bed and breakfast to us, and although they do offer dorm-style rooms, the feel didn't have the party-hostel feel like many do. Prices have remained quite consistant for the past 4 years at least, and range from 22euros for a dorm bed to 75euros for a double with bathroom, and 120euros for a triple with bathroom. The interior of the hostel is quite elegant and open with lots of lovely windows and tile designs over the floors and staircases. A nice upscale feel for a downscale price.

• http://www.brikette.com/
• Open late March - November
• via G. Marconi, 358
• +39 089 875857

Probably the most popular place to eat in Positano is the seaside restaurant of Chez Black. Located on the main beachside thoroughfare of Via del Brigantino, this restaurants boasts a large open dining area with plenty of outdoor seats under a covering, full dining room, and lots of crowds.

Offering an extensive wine list, and menus for lunch and dinner, most anyone can find something they like. The specialty, of course, is seafood and they have selections from squid, octopus, and scallops, to eel, shrimp, and endless fish varieties...all seasonal and depending on that day's catches. There are also other options from varied pasta dishes, crostini, vegetables, meats, and pizza. They are touted as a "pizzeria" as well, and so if you can't find something you like on the main menu, you can always grab a yummy slice of pizza.

When we arrived, it immediately struck us as more of a tourist kind of place, with little to no tourists. Usually this isn't our type of dining, but the atmosphere was fun, and the view is great. We ended up enjoying it quite a bit. The service was friendly and the people-watching never got old. After the meal, they even brought us complementary shots of Limoncello, the liqueur that the Amalfi Coast is famous for.

Prices are moderate, so you can spend as little as 15-20euro per person with only an appetizer and first course plus wine, or up to 100euro per person for a full course meal and a good bottle of wine.

• http://www.chezblack.it/
• Via del Brigantino, 19
• Call for Reservations +39 089-875036
• Moderately priced

When most people think of the skyline of the gorgeous town of Positano, the tiled domed roof of the church of Santa Maria Assunta definitely comes to mind. Standing above all the rooftops of this steep hillside town, this church is a mainstay in the overall face of the city. Overlooking the blue Mediterranean Sea, the town and this church are one of the most beautiful sites in Italy.
Located in the center of town in Flavio Gioia Piazza, this building is a wonderful example of the traditional architecture of this area, with the colorful tiles, whitewashed interior, and natural lighting. Seeing the church from the outside and along lookout points on the hill is just as impressive as taking a look inside as well. When we entered the interior I was immediately struck by the starkness of the white stucco walls, and the glowing gold adornments throughout. It's a very big difference from the darkness of many Gothic style cathedrals throughout the country, and in a way makes more sense for a beach town to have such a light sancuary.

The main church contains three naves and lots of natural lighting coming in from the windows. It almost seems like a heavenly light brings the outside into the inside so people can feel like they're still on the sunny seashore. There are a few noteworthy pieces of art including the "Circoncisione" by Fabrizio Santafede, and a Bizantine wooden panel with Jesus and Mary.

If you visit on a weekend, you may run into a wedding ceremony, as Positano is one of Italy's most popular destination wedding locations. If you're visiting the town though, it's definitely worth the time to check out this church. Don't plan on spending too much time though as there's not troves of famous art pieces or stained glass to see as in the churches of Rome or Florence, but the Church of Santa Maria Assunta is beautiful in its own right.
• http://www.chiesapositano.com/
• Piazza Flavio Gioia, 1
• +39 089 875480 
• Open 8am - midday, 4pm - 8pm

What's a visit to Positano without a day at the beach? As one of the most beautiful settings on the Mediterranean Sea, this is one of the best spots to do not much of anything, but relax, walk on the sand, and float in the ocean. When we visited one year in mid-April, it was a bit early in the season for getting in the water, or even laying out on the sand...but that didn't hold us back from still enjoying the beach.

During our short stay in Positano, we decided not to make any plans and instead just wander the steep staircases in the hillside town, browse in the outdoor markets, and meander along the seashore. First stop was the large concrete embankment where the waves crash. I love the movie "Under the Tuscan Sun", and there's the scene where Diane Lane's character stands here looking out over the sea. The waves weren't too rough when we visited so we took turns standing on the edge for photos hoping a random wave didn't come and soak us. Luckily we stayed dry and then continued on towards the sand.

Actually instead of the fine sand we were expecting, we noticed that the beach here is made up of lots of small, smooth pebbles. It actually feels quite nice to walk on, but very different from powdery sand. I looked down and noticed something shiny and green and when I bent down to see what it was, I saw that it was a lovely piece of sea glass...and since sea glass was something we loved collecting from the beach where we lived, I was excited to pocket a fun free souvenir. Just as I stood back up though, I noticed another piece, then another, and another. They were everywhere. Lots of blue, aqua, teal, forest green, yellow, and clear pieces of sea glass. And not only sea glass, but also smoothed pieces of tiles that are so prominent in the architecture of this area.

We ended up spending all morning just walking along the seashore, (pretty much alone, as it wasn't quite tourist or beach season yet) collecting pieces of glass and tile. We found some larger tile pieces with inscriptions or fun painted designs as well. When the morning was over, we'd collected enough for a nice sized jar, which added a bit of weight to our backpacks...but it was completely worth it as it ended up being one of most favorite souvenirs from our first trip to Italy.