The Land of Orphan Toasters

Meaning the "marsh" or "swamp at the city centre," Beung Kaen Nakhon is a delightful lake located south of the modern downtown area of Khon Kaen, nothing was left from the former marshland. It is the main leisure area in the city and is an important center for travelers, especially around the northern shore where the Lakeside Market is. The market operates mainly in the afternoon hours, offering food, snacks and many "paint-your-pottery" stalls. However, the main attractions in the market are the stalls renting bikes (20 baht per hour) and the ones renting paddleboats and canoes (30 baht for half an hour).

Thailand being Thailand, some of the most attractive temples in town are located nearby.

Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon

At the southern side of the lake – on Robbung Road - is a large temple called Wat Nong Waeng; the main structures in it date back to the early nineteenth century. Within it is "Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon," namely "Holy Great Stuppa of the City Center," a magnificent nine-storey stuppa, with a square base of 50 meters and a height of 80. Visiting the structure is possible between 6 AM and 5 PM; giving it more time than the needed for enjoying the awesome views of the lake and town from the top floor is strongly recommended.

Its doors and windows are beautifully carved, featuring themes from the Buddha life, Buddhist rites and Hindu deities. Murals depict the city’s history. The first floor houses relics of Buddha and his disciples sheltered by a seven-head-naga crystal wall and 108 monk's alms-bowl tables, which each bowl represents one of Buddha’s disciples. A Chinese fortuneteller operates there, casting luck for impatient travelers. The floor over it houses old artifacts belonging to the city museum and murals depicting various aspects of life in Isaan. The third and fourth floors are monks’ learning halls; the fifth is a museum dedicated to a former abbot; the preceptor hall is above it. The seventh floor displays stories of the enlightened Buddha; above it is the Tripitaka, the Buddhist library of the temple and a learning hall. On the top floor a movable throne stores Buddha relics.

Other Temples

North of the last stuppa is a prang dedicated to the Hindu god Indra. A "prang" is a Khmer style stuppa, a religious structure parallel to a Thai "cheddi." Differentiating these graceful towers is easy, a Thai cheddi narrows dramatically towards its spiky top, while Khmer prangs are more cylindrical in shape and often feature a sculpted surface in contrast to the smooth surface of the cheddis.

Nearby is a Thai-styled cheddi named Wat That. In this case, the name is not less interesting than the structure. "That" (it is pronounced with an aspirated "t" and not as the English "th") is the Lao word for "cheddi;" thus, the "Cheddi Temple" indicates the close cultural relation between Khon Kaen – and Isaan in general – with Laos.


Other temple of interest is Wat Pho Ban Nonthan. Predating the city foundation, the temple houses a unique sala (the hall where monks meet the local population). Its ground floor displays sculpted trees, animals and villagers enacting Isaan proverbs, pretty much like Sala Kaeo Ku in near Nong Khai.

Nearby, is Wat Jeen Beung Kaen Nakhon ("Chinese Temple of the Swamp at the City Centre," understanding Thai names adds an undeniable entertaining factor to the experience) the biggest Chinese temple in town. On the lake, there is a replica of Hanoi’s One Pillar pagoda built by the local Vietnamese community.

Hong Mun Mang

Hong Mun Mang is the Khon Kaen City Museum. As the attractions mentioned above, it is also situated by the lake along Prachasamran Road. The museum is dedicated mainly to Isaan’s ways of life, history and culture. Except for Mondays, the museum is open daily between noon and 8 PM.

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Overall the swamp-turned-lake provides a fascinating glimpse into the different cultures present in the area, and all that in a very attractive environment for swamping around Khon Kaen’s downtown.

Location, Location, and Location

In MBA courses is taught that the three most important conditions for a business success are: Location, Location, and Location. Accordingly, Klang Muang Road, the second street eastern from Khon Kaen’s bus terminal hosts several guesthouses. Due to the large number of people crossing this transport hub usually it is difficult to find a place if arriving during the late afternoon.

Yet, there are a number of worthy options. The popular Saen Samran Hotel is at Klang Muang 55-9, and offers fan single rooms from 150 to 200B. The renovated Roma hotel asks for 230 to 400B, the Khon Kaen Hotel 500B, and the Pongin Mantion 200 to 350B, all of them are along Klang Muang. The Rossukond Hotel is at the Glang Muang and Prachasamosorn junction and asks for 550B.

Saen Samran

Always seeking for points of historical interest, I approached Saen Samran, the oldest guesthouse in town. Accordingly, it occupies a traditional Thai teak house. Thai towns are characterized by low rows of shophouses many of them built of teakwood. Shophouses are two or three storey structures, where the entrance level is dedicated to commercial activity, while the upper floors are used as the living quarters of the owners.

Many of the older buildings in town that are not dedicated to administrative or religious tasks enter this category. Nowadays forbidden of being logged in Thailand, teak was a popular building material in the past. Many buildings have survived and many are being built with trees brought from Myanmar. Teak is popular not only due to being native of the area. It can be worked easily and its oils provide protection from weather and termites. Saen Samran occupies a modified shophouse in which the ground floor became a reception area and lobby while the upper ones house the guest rooms.

The lobby hosts the reception, a television set, a few coaches and a noticeboard; the staff is somewhat unhelpful, but that is a secondary issue: it is very easy to wander around Khon Kaen.

Most rooms are in the second floor, away from the noise by the entrance, and they have been arbitrarily divided into big and small rooms, the small ones cost 150B while the others 200B per night. Despite that, all the rooms are roughly the same size and include a bed, a fan and a big but basic bathroom with a cold-water shower; the corner rooms have two windows instead of the regular one. Not all of them have electric sockets available, thus if in need of charging electronic gadgets then check that out before signing for the room. Since it is the best-known place among the inexpensive guesthouses, try to check-in early; otherwise, it would be probably full.

As mentioned above, beyond being in a beautiful house, another advantage of the Saen Samran is its location: Klang Muang is one of the main avenues in the city. It hosts a lively Night Market offering the best of Isaan and a day market is located nearby. If all these weren’t enough, there is a Seven Eleven branch practically across the road as well as several internet kiosks.

At Isaan's heart, Khon Kaen combines the relaxed ambience of small, rural Thai towns with all the commodities of the bigger ones; its fast developing center provides an attractive commercial environment for travelers looking for Isaan’s products. Of the last, silk is the main, but not only, one.

Visas

Surprisingly, Khon Kaen houses two consulates. There is no special reason for issuing the corresponding visas here; actually, Bangkok would be a better place for the Laotian one and Phnom Penh for the Vietnamese visa. However, if staying in Khon Kaen for a while and planning to cross the border to Laos and afterwards to Vietnam, then this is a handy option.

The Laotian consulate is at 171, Pracha Samoson Rd. This country is notorious for its changes in visas policies and fees; they even have a different visa fee for people from different countries. In any case a picture is needed. For an extra, the visa can be issued on the same day if applied for during the morning hours. However, if time is of concern, the fastest service is in Nong Khai, next to the Friendship Bridge to Laos. Vietnam has a consulate on 65/6, Chatapadung Rd. Except for the fees; it operates similarly to the Laotian consulate. Both consulates can be reached with truck number 10.

Local Cuisine

Khon Kaen is a good place for sampling Isaan food, which technically is Laotian. The best places in town are located next to Beung Kaen Nakhon, while the cheapest street markets surround the Saem Samren area (both places are reviewed in this journal).

Upmarket locations are usually a bad choice since they tend to serve sophisticated fusion cuisine dishes; the chances of tasting the local cuisine there are slim. Food in street markets is as local as it gets, but the environment is stressful and doesn’t allow for a full assessment of the dishes. Luckily, by the beginning of the 21st century, other options exist: shopping mall food plazas.

Located near the junction of Na Muang and Si Chan roads, the Kosa Shopping Center offers an excellent food court on its top floor. The complex includes a hotel and a coffee shop of the same name.

The food plaza resembles a traditional Asian Food Market, where each shop specializes in very few dishes. Buying a whole meal at one stall is not possible; the idea is wandering around while creating the ultimate meal dish by dish. The method is simple: coupons are bought at a central spot and they can be exchanged for food at any of the shops surrounding the common sitting area. It provides clear menus, an exceptionally graphic display, and a golden opportunity to sample Isaan’s cuisine.

Beyond som tam, sticky rice and other famous dishes from the area, this is the place for tasting sup nau mai (shredded bamboo-shoot salad), mee Khon Kaen (fried sour noodles), gun chee ang (red pork sausages) and the incredible variety of fruits available in the area.

Souvenirs

Souvenirs are a tricky issue; bringing kitschy knickknacks only to get them confiscated by the airport customs is a real danger in these strange days. Moreover, taking around bulky souvenirs all along a trip may be a cumbersome task.

Isaan is famous for its silk; luckily items made of silk make light and attractive souvenirs. The issue is complex, several types of silk exist, depending from which type of thread they were made of – silk from the inner cocoon is the finest. Moreover, the imprinted designs vary from town to town; most of them have some historical importance. With a plethora of shops offering silk, it is easy to learn the issue in Khon Kaen. A much recommended place is Phrae Phan, on Chatapadung Road. It is run by the Handicraft Center for Northeastern Women’s Development and offers a wide variety of natural dyed, hand woven silk produced in nearby villages at very accessible prices.

Other articles of interest include cotton fabrics, though they are less distinctive than silk. Kaan, a pipe typical of Isaan, is also readily available here, though Roi Et – also reviewed in this journal – is a much more famous producer of this item.

In Between

Divided by Highway 2, Khon Kaen features an easy to remember grid of streets: east of the highway are the Na Muang and Klang Muang roads running from north to south; perpendicular to them are Srichan and Prachasamosorn roads. Between these streets is the main commercial area of town.

Klang Muang is one of the main avenues in the city, hosting a lively Night Market. There are several 7 Eleven branches and several Internet Cafes. South of downtown is the Bueng Kaen Nakhon Lake, which offers several recreational activities. Both areas host the bulk of travelers passing through town, though the first is substantially bigger and better located. Yet, the second offers better views and a more pleasant environment. The best is making a short visit to both before deciding on a headquarter while in town.

Songtaew trucks travel around the town, a trip cost 8 baht regardless the distance. The most useful lines are number 8, traveling along Klang Muang Road, number 10 reaching the Lao and Vietnamese consulates, and number 11 connecting the railway station with the VIP bus terminal. Tuk-tuks abound but are much more expensive - around 50 baht for a trip - and do not offer better travel conditions than the trucks.

In and Out

Khon Kaen is the best place from where to explore Isaan. The town is located at Isaan’s geographical center; National Highway 2 (also known as Mithraphap or Friendship Highway) connects Bangkok with Vientiane in Laos.

Sakon Nakhon to the east, Loei to the west, Udon Thani to the north and Nakhon Ratchasima to the south are the main towns surrounding Khon Kaen, and can be easily accessed from it. But the last is also a comfortable base for visiting Chaiyaphum (reviewed in this journal), the Thai Mekong and a myriad of charming little towns in the less traveled quarter of Thailand.

Car

To reach Khon Kaen by car from Bangkok, take National Highway 1 (Phaholyothin) to Saraburi, and then turn right into National Highway 2 (Friendship Highway). Continue straight through Nakhon Ratchasima until Khon Kaen is reached.

Train

The State Railway of Thailand has four lines of trains leading out of Bangkok; they are called according to the direction they travel to: Northern, Northeastern, Eastern and Southern, the last is connected to the Malaysian railways.

Located on Rama IV Road, the Bangkok Railway Station is easy to find; nowadays there is a Metro station right at its door, Bangkok's Chinatown is across the highway. The Hualampong Station was built between 1910 and 1916, and modernized in 1998; its huge hangar features short towers at its corners and is one of the best known landmarks in Bangkok.

The station provides 24-hour service, including a post office, money exchange services, a Thai food plaza, bookstores in Thai and English, information booths, luggage deposit, hotel reservations and fast food joints, including a Dunkin's Donuts branch.

The Northeastern Line leaves from there and reaches Nong Khai, through Nakhon Ratchasima, Ubon Ratchathani, Khon Kaen and Udon Thani, with the help of two lines.

Five trains per day travel in each direction; timetables are available at the Hualampong Railway Station. The thing to remember is that there are two trains departing during the morning hours and arriving at the early evening and three night trains leaving during the early evening and arriving early in the morning.

Air

Three daily flights connect Khon Kaen with Bangkok. Those deciding to skip the wonderful trip overland will arrive at the smallish Khon Kaen Airport about an hour after having left the metropolis. Two hotels – Pullman and Kosa – operate free shuttles for their customers. For a small fee – about two dollars - those can be used by everyone.

Bus

Buses for Khon Kaen leave Bangkok's Mo Chit Bus Terminal between 5 AM and 11 PM, roughly every thirty minutes. The journey takes around eight hours. In the opposite direction, the last bus leaves around midnight, but several buses from further away locations cross the main terminal during the night.

Khon Kaen features two bus terminals. The Second Class Buses Terminal is on Prachasamoson Road, while the First Class and VIP Buses Terminal is on Klang Muang Road. The first is the choice for those short in time since it offers more frequent departures, especially to nearby locations. It is worth mentioning that Khon Kaen is a main stopover in Isaan, buses from anywhere to everywhere stop here for a snacks break at all hours. That means that if they have seats, they would accept passengers. Bottom line: even if the timetable indicates a long wait until the next desired departure, it is worth waiting for random departures. Another important point is that there are buses from Khon Kaen to Northern Thailand, travelling through Highway 12.

There is even a direct bus connecting the town with Vientiane in Laos. Yet, this is not recommended since Nong Khai – the last Thai town before the Friendship Bridge to Laos – is a charming town with plenty of sights.

So, how to choose a terminal?

For Chaiyaphum, Nakhon Ratchasima, Loei, Sakon Nakhon, Mukdahan, Nakhon Phanom, Nong Khai, Phitsanulok, Roi Et and Udon Thani, the Second Class terminal is fine.

Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai, Suvarnabhumi Airport, Ubon Ratchathani, Udon Thani and Vientiane can be reached with the ultra-modern buses available at the VIP terminal.

First Sight

Soon after I landed in Thailand for the first time, I found myself standing in the dry food products area of a local market. One of the shops displayed many bags of rice, each one containing a different product. Long, short, white, brown and types I couldn’t identify properly. It was like olives in the Middle East or potatoes in the Bolivian highlands: I was in the rice homeland, in the Land of Orphan Toasters.

Disbelief

Years later, I was visiting the US. Local friends prepared rice for dinner. I felt comfortable enough to comment that the rice they had just prepared wasn’t fit for human consumption in Thailand (OK, I was more polite at that moment): it was sticky – despite not being of the glutinous variety – and too wet. Something had gone terribly wrong during the cooking.

My hosts looked at me and spoke at once - as if following a script – saying: "It is impossible to cook rice as you describe!" None of them had been in Thailand and thus had not been exposed to the national pride there.

Gin Khao

Rice is so important for the Thai culture than instead of using the verb "eat" they describe the action as "gin khao," ("g" like in "get," and a long "a") which literally means "consume rice." "Eating" means "eating rice." A meal without this product is never complete.

Sticky Jasmine

As already mentioned there are many types of rice and probably even more preparation methods. However, for the traveler there are two varieties of interest.

The first is called Jasmine Rice or Thai Fragrant Rice, the last due to its slight aroma and savor that distinguish it from other types. It was identified in 1954 and since then it became the most prestigious rice in the Kingdom of Smiles and Orphan Toasters. It is similar to the rice known in the West, with distinctively long grains and an exciting feature: its grains do not tend to form lumps after cooking due to a very low content of amylopectin. This type would not be usually found at inexpensive market meals, it is worth looking for it at better restaurants. It is superb for Thai curries.

The second variety is distinctive of Isaan and Lao cuisines and is known as "sticky rice," or "khao niao" in Isaan and Laos and "khao nueng" in Northern Thailand.

Of the short grain variety (and thus sometimes called "pearl rice"), it is prepared by exclusively by steaming and presented to the diner within a bamboo bowl (called "kratip"). To some extent, this is the opposite of Jasmine Rice, its stickiness is the result of large quantities of amylopectin and not due to gluten; in fact this is a gluten free product. The result is sticky and dry; due to these characteristics is eaten by hand, by wadding it with the fingers into a small ball and then dipping it into sauces, salads or dishes containing minced meats (or other protein source) before putting it in the mouth.

Probably the most popular snack – which can be extended into a full meal – if eaten with sticky rice is som tam – or papaya salad. Hearing the popularized English name may be misleading; fruits in Thailand are often eaten unripe adding thus a sour taste to the dish instead of a sweet one. In fact, the name means "sour pounded."

Shredded unripe papayas are mixed in this dish with a variety of additional ingredients; the last change enormously, but the most common ones are peanuts and green beans, tomatoes and small fresh water crabs are also popular. Lime and chilies are the main spices added. As with most of the Isaan dishes, the chilies play an important role and create an incredibly hot salad. Sticky rice is used for picking up the salad bits.

Probably the most exciting dish prepared with sticky rice is khao niao ma muang, literally "rice-sticky mango." Mangoes (there are several variations, including a highly sour one) are usually eaten unripe in Thailand; pickled mangoes are also popular. Sweet, ripe mangoes are seldom used. However, when their season arrives, khao niao ma muang becomes a popular dish for a while. Slices of ripe, extra sweet mango are put atop sticky rice which was washed in coconut cream. To Western eyes, the dish may be considered a dessert because of its sweetness, but this categorization is irrelevant in Thailand; khao niao ma muang is just another main dish, though sweeter than the usual.

Probably it was luck, but the fact is that I found the sweetest fruits in Thailand while visiting Roi Et. But this centric town in Isaan has more than fruits to offer. Justifying a visit there is simple; Roi Et offers easy access to most of the southern half of the Thai Mekong and is near the National Highway 2, connecting Bangkok with Laos. Reaching it unintentionally is difficult, leaving it unexplored after the first sight is unthinkable. As a few other towns in Isaan, Roi Et balances a traditional Thai ambience with modern facilities and an excitingly low number of foreign travelers.

Behind this tiny town is a long history; human settlement here dates back at least 2800 years ago, being older than all the main modern cities in the area. As such it rejoices in its traditional values without attempting to gain notoriety by winning its neighbors pace of urbanization. Faithful to its past, this is one of the best spots in the country for purchasing a kaan, a pipe typical of Isaan. The small models make good souvenirs.

Strategy

The best approach for exploring Roi Et is as a stopover between Khon Kaen or Udon Thani and any of the main towns along the southern side of the Thai Mekong.

If deciding to stay at this charming spot of Thailand for a while, it is possible to make short day trips to Mukdahan next to the Mekong riverside. Ubon Ratchathani is just three hours away, providing access to the Emerald Triangle area.

Bung Phlan Chai

As in Khon Kaen, a large pond occupies Roi Et’s center; that’s typical of Thai settlements which are always located near a water source. This can be better appreciated in mountainous areas. Mae Hong Son features an elephants’ washing pond at its center, while nearby Hill Tribes settlements are not necessarily located even near shallow streams. This cultural characteristic even shaped traditional houses, Thai teak houses are skeletal shophouses: the family lives on the upper floor while the space under the house – usually elevated on stilts – serves as a working space; eventually this design also protects against floods in the rainy season. In contrast, hill tribes’ houses are placed flat on the ground.

Named Bung Phlan Chai, this circular, artificial lake features an island with a walking Buddha standing on its northern side; the island occupies most of the lake’s area. Three bridges connect the island with the lakeshore, allowing access to the flower garden, the City Pillar, Phu Phalan Chai (a small artificial waterfall), playground and other attractions sharing the island with the Buddha.

In a similar tone, the Somdet Phra Srinakarindra Park is a public park in the heart of the city, located in front of the city hall. Its highlights are the fountain at its center, a clock tower, shady trees and plenty of flowers. It provides a good set up for a late afternoon picnic, especially since it is less crowded than the lake area.

Wat Neua

On Phadung Phanit Road – northwest from the lake – is Wat Neua, a temple dating back at least 1200 years to the end of the Dvaravati Period. Its main cheddi – named Phra Satup Cheddi – has a rectangular base and a bell shaped form, a combination which is quite rare in Thailand. Nearby is a pillar with Khmer inscriptions, a reminder than after the fall of the Dvaravati, Angkor filled up the political vacuum.

Roi Et National Museum

This attraction is on Ploen Chit Road - east of the lake southern end – and is worth mentioning due to its exhibition of fabric’s coloring techniques. Isaan is a major producer of Thai silks – most travelers would probably buy silk items as gifts or souvenirs – thus a visit to the museum enriches the understanding of silk. Not far from there – a few blocks to the north – Phadung Phanit Road is a good place for buying silk and cotton fabric. The museum is open every day, except for Mondays, Tuesdays and public holidays from 9 AM to 4 PM.

Wat Burapha

With no doubt the main attraction in Roi Et is Phra Phuttha Rattana Mongkok Mahamuni statue at Wat Burapha, a temple located along Phadung Phanit Road, northwest of the lake. The temple is classified as a Royal Temple of the Third Class, quite an achievement for a small town as Roi Et. Being a very low town with no tall buildings at all, a Buddha statue measuring sixty meters from head to toe and placed atop a high base attracts a lot of attention even if it lacks in the artistic side. A staircase enables climbing up to the Buddha’s knee.

Wat Klang Ming Mueang

Wat Klang Ming Mueang is located on Charoen Phanit Road, northwest of the lake. The Ubosot was built during the late Ayutthaya period and houses murals depicting the life of the Buddha.

Wat Sa Thong

Located on Hai Sok Road – just north of the lake – is Wat Sa Thong, a temple housing Luangpho Phra Sangkatchai, a sacred Buddha image discovered in 1782. In the past, civil servants made a promise to the image to be honest in their work. A nice pond is next to the temple.

Access

Roi Et can be accessed by car by taking Road 23 from National Highway 2. The town is directly connected by bus to Bangkok’s Mo Chit Bus Terminal and to al the main cities in Isaan. Directs flights to Bangkok are also available.

By the end of my most recent trip to Thailand, I found myself at timeless moment of the day – after all time doesn’t flow there – at Khon Kaen’s bus terminal, wondering what would be the most interesting way of returning to Bangkok. Unluckily, I already had traveled all the main routes and visited all the major towns in the area; the chances to innovate were slim. I walked back and forth among the terminal bays until one sign caught my attention, "Chaiyaphum" it said.

I knew the name and roughly where the town was but never had visited it. The decision to reach Bangkok via Chaiyaphum was immediate and irrevocable. A few hours later, I found that was the best decision of that trip, despite the long detour it demanded.

The city is the capital of the Thai province of the same name and is located partially on the Isaan plateau and partially on the mountain range separating Isaan from Northern Thailand. Such a remote location hinted the chances to find fellow travelers were infinitesimal; accordingly – and for a change - I found a charming Thai town full of Thai denizens. I was the only traveler in town. To some extent I had found my "Land of Victory" (that’s the meaning of Chaiyaphum in Sanskrit – "phum" is the same as "bhumi" in "Suvarnabhumi" - Bangkok’s International Airport).

The name was intriguing. Which victory could it refer to? The place was an almost forgotten corner of the kingdom; the only fight I could imagine there was against evil mosquitoes during the rainy season.

Accordingly, the place has very little history. It was an outpost of the Khmer Empire, serving as a stopover between Angkor and Prasat Singh in Kanchanaburi. After that empire collapsed, the village was abandoned. Only in 1817 it was resettled again by Laotian people that came from the Vientiane Principality.

A few years later, in 1826, King Anuwong of Vientiane declared war on Siam and managed to conquer big parts of Isaan, including Nakhon Ratchasima.

Chao Phraya Lae – Chaiyaphum’s ruler at the time – decided to support Siam during the war. After the Laotian troops were defeated by the Thai, they returned to Vientiane via Chaiyaphum and killed Chao Phraya Lae. Following the Thai victory, Chaiyaphum became an integral part of Siam. Vientiane was left as a principality – the ruins of that attack can still be seen in That Dam – and was soon ceded by the Thai to France.

As a result of these events, the provincial seal shows a triangular flag, symbol of victory in the war. Chaoao Phraya Lae was renamed Phraya Phakdi Chumpon; its monument stands in front of the City Hall.

Such a history seems to be the perfect prelude for having nil historic sights, but a single temple survived since Khmer times. Prang Ku is a Khmer style stuppa (see the "Beung Kaen Nakhon" entry in this journal for more details on a "prang") located on the town’s eastern outskirts. It is possible to reach it by walking along Bannakan Road. The badly preserved stuppa dates back to the twelfth or thirteenth century, but the Buddha figure inside the cheddi apparently dates back to somewhen between the sixth to the tenth centuries, during the Dvaravati Period. It was partially restored by placing the building stones found at the site one atop the other to resemble a prang. The uneven result is oddly graceful and definitely worth a visit.

Despite the lack of historical monument, Chaiyaphum is a living memorial to its history. Most of the population is ethnically Lao and talks Lao, though it writes it in Thai letters, as most of Isaan. Nearby Ban Khwao is a well known silk production center; its products can be appreciated at the Night Bazaar on Sanambin Road at the western side of town.

The Night Market is the perfect place for a late and tasty dinner. Luckily, I found it right outside the bus terminal, near the junction of Burapha and Niwetrat roads. It offers all the staples of the Isaan cuisine, including copious quantities of sticky rice (see the rice entry in this journal) and mahm – sour fermented beef and liver sausages.

I had arrived very late and, as always in steaming hot Thailand, I chose to enjoy the breezy night out. Surprisingly for a town so small, many restaurants stayed open almost until sunrise. Even the nightlife scene was unexpected; maybe due to the total lack of foreigners, it had a civility and a graciousness that is quickly disappearing in larger urban centers in Thailand.

Reaching Chaiyaphum

Despite the relative remoteness of the town, it can be easily accessed. It is about 340 kilometers from Bangkok, 150 from Khon Kaen and 120 from Nakhon Ratchasima; it can be reached from these three cities.

An unusual approach would be to take one of the daily Bangkok - Nong Khai trains and to get off at Bua Yai Station. Buses cover the fifty remaining kilometers. There are direct buses from Bangkok’s Mo Chit Bus Terminal and from Khon Kaen. If renting a car, travel along Highway No.2 (Mittraphap Road) past Amphoe Pak Chong and turn into Road 201 until Chaiyaphum.