Two Weeks in Dalyan, Turkey

A deep sea fishing trip was what I was looking for and the price of 35YTL (approx £15) for a full days fishing, with lunch, was very attractive and seemed a bit too good to be true. The booking was very easy and simply involved speaking to the girl behind the desk (who spoke excellent English) who took my money (you have to pay in full on booking) and wrote out a receipt ticket with all the relevant details. Most tours include transfers from your hotel but since it was a five-minute walk to the river, and the boat, I had to meet the tour guide at HQ.

****Format of the day****

Once on the boat you motor down the river to Turtle Beach. You are not permitted to fish or troll during this time so it is simply a matter of sitting and watching the world go by (obviously soaking up the sun and the views) whilst pondering about the creatures from the deep you are going to catch.

Once you reach Turtle Beach you go out of the delta and about a mile out to sea, there you head towards an un-inhabited island where anchor is dropped about 10m from the coastline.

The rods are distributed and the Captain gives a demonstration on how to bait up the hook, how to cast, what happens when you get a bite and what to do when you catch a fish.

The boat remains at this bay for 2 hours where the anglers can fish and any non-anglers on board can jump in and swim. After 2 hours has elapsed lunch is served, as cooked and prepared by the Captain. After lunch the boat moves around the other side of the island where the anglers can fish and non-anglers swim again. The boat remains in situ for a further 2 hours.

After 2 hours all lines are reeled in and the boat goes back to shore. Upon reaching the delta the boat is moored up, hand lines are distributed and the emphasis changes to fishing for blue crabs. Once 18 crabs are caught the boat is taken to Lake Kocegiz where everyone is invited to swim whilst the Captain BBQs the catch, before heading back. The excursion is a full day that commences at 9.00 a.m. and finishes around 6.00 p.m.

****The boat****

Kaunos Tours has its very own boat used specifically for fishing trips and it was this that was used for this excursion. I was expecting something sleek, modern and streamlined but what I saw was very different.

The boat for this trip consisted of a flat-bottomed hull that was about 60 feet in length by 8 feet wide with an internal engine. At the front was a cabin, which consisted of a small toilet and a small galley. On the front of the cabin was a sunbathing deck. The boat wasn’t sleek, modern or sexy looking but it looked up to the task. It was clear that this was a "tourists" sea fishing boat for those that wanted a bit of fun, and not a serious anglers’ boat.

I was quite disappointed since I was expecting a serious trip, but given the cost I suppose I was expecting too much. Despite the vessel being below expectations it was more than adequate for the excursion and was plenty big enough to comfortable accommodate all those on board.

****The fishing gear****

All fishing gear was included in the price. All anglers were provided with a small telescopic rod, a fixed spool reel and an end trace at the bottom. It is pure minimalist fishing.

The tackle was primitive and cheap but given it was loaned out to tourists, and suffered a lot of abuse, I was not surprised by this. That said,the tackle was more than capable for the job in hand.
****The fish****

The fish that are prevalent around the coastline, and those most likely to be caught include 2 striped sea bream, sea bream, various species of wrasse and silver fish. There are also small barracuda but these weren’t on the agenda.

****Lunch****
Lunch is included in the price although drinks are extra. Lunch consists of the ‘normal’ lunch served on these excursions and includes lots of bread, green salad that has a lot of dressing on it, tomatoes/peppers/chillies, meat balls and a chicken stew.

The lunch was prepared, and cooked on board by the Captain and I must say that he does a fantastic job given the conditions he has to work in. The ingredients appear to be very fresh and are very tasty. The quantity of food did not appear to be as much as other excursions we had been on, but then maybe this was because the family we were with piled their plates so high on the first round that we were only left the dregs.

I should point out that drinks are the same price as you would expect to pay in any bar, restaurant, café or shop in Dalyan.

****Price****

The standard cost of this excursion is 35 YTL (approx £15) for an adult. Children under 12 years old are charged 20 YTL (approx £8) and non-angling guests are more than welcome at 20 YTL per person. The pricing structure clearly makes this excursion one aimed at families, as opposed to serious anglers.

However you look at it, the cost represents excellent value for money and provides a full days entertainment and lunch.

****My experience****

Upon reaching the boat I was confronted with a large extended family consisting of partners and children ranging from 3 years old to around 15 years old. The ladies had already secured their sun loungers on the sun deck for the day and they were busy rubbing in tanning oil in preparation for the rays. The children were running around and screaming at each other and the men sat calmly on the side, letting it all happen, drinking beer. To say I was absolutely gutted is an understatement since I was ready for some serious fishing, which clearly was not going to be the order of the day.

Lunchtime was awful and it was like an episode of the Waltons. Lunch consisted of a help yourself buffet and all the food was laid on a table that was big enough for 16 of us, although the family of 14 decided to stake their claim on all 16 places. The grandmother dished out the food to all the family members first before piling her own plate up and leaving us with the dregs. I was disgusted by their greed, their table manners and the way they conducted themselves and I admit that I was ashamed and embarrassed to be English on this excursion. I must applaud the Captain for his patience with the family.

As the day wore on, I found the family to be very loud, obtrusive, rude and a stereo typical group of "Brits abroad". What should have been a relaxing day turned out to be a very stressful one and by the end of it I was shattered and just needed some peace.

As far as the fishing went it was quite good fun and we caught plenty of fish but they were very small. Some of the fish were kept in a bucket, which surprised me since they were far too small to eat. However, we were later to discover these fish were going to be used as crab bait.

****Conclusion****

Like many of the excursions available in Dalyan the sea fishing trip represents excellent value for money. Especially when you consider that it includes 4 hours fishing, about 1 hours crabbing, 1 hour swimming in Lake Koycegiz and the rest of the day on the boat.

The trip was advertised as deep-sea fishing and whilst you do go over some deep sea the actual fishing is carried out in shallow water on the reefs of an island, which isn’t really deep sea fishing. The fishing element clearly plays second fiddle to the crabbing part and the only reason to catch the fish appears to be to provide the bait to catch the crabs. This is great if you enjoy crabbing.

The thing that can really make or break this excursion is other people on the trip. We were unfortunate to share our trip with a family of 14, all of whom were very close, and as such we felt like total outsiders.

This is not a trip for serious anglers, however, if you are looking for a fun day out for the family then I would recommend this.

Located right on the quay side of Koycegiz the Pasa restaurant is ideally placed to fully exploit the passing trade as tourists are coming from, and going to the boats.

The lunchtime menu is nothing special and consists of chicken, meatballs, fish, kebabs, lamb steaks and pide. These are all dishes you can get from several other places in the town. The food is no cheaper nor is it more expensive than other restaurants in town. We were told that the quality of the food is no better nor is it any worse than other restaurants in town, so you have to ask yourself the question why eat at Pasa?

Most of it has to do with the location, and tourists, most of whom are typically lazy whilst on holiday, is absolutely spot on. This restaurant is the first thing you come across when you enter Koycegiz from the lake, and the enthusiastic, friendly and very helpful tout is the first person you come across. You are instantly made to feel welcome which is a good thing, and it usually results in custom of some kind, be it a drink or a meal. Within 5 minutes of being in Koycegiz we knew exactly where we would be having lunch, and we hadn’t even got off the quayside.

This restaurant gives a great first impression, which is important when there are similar restaurants that are very close by. The restaurant looks well cared for and modern with all the requisite facilities required. I find some places in Turkey are run down and in desperate need of some TLC but this is not one of them. The site is also immaculately clean and any mess is cleared up almost instantly, which makes it nice and keeps the insects at bay.

In the middle of the dining area, all of which is alfresco but has cover from the sun, is a water feature consisting of a pool (complete with a large fountain), rockery and some shrubbery. The dining area is clean and attractive, and there is a certain ambience and atmosphere, that is most inviting. I found just being in the area comfortable, and looking around it appeared that most of the other diners felt the same.

A unique selling point of this restaurant and perhaps the best feature is that some of the tables are in the water feature. They are not in the middle of the deep pool, but around the outskirts is a shallow ‘drain’ with about 3 inches of water. This allows you to sit at the table with your feet in the water to cool down. It is a great feeling, especially after having been walking around the town or market for the last few hours. One thing I should stress is the water gets very, very cold and whilst it is nice and refreshing to begin with I found that my feet soon turned in to ice blocks. I wasn’t particularly bothered about this as I hate hot, or even warm, feet but my other half does not share this.

The staff are fast and efficient and the service is very prompt. Liking to slow it down a bit whilst on holiday, I thought the service was a bit too fast and I felt we were rushed in and rushed out. I suppose this is to be expected given that the owners are going to want to ensure they can cater for all the passing traffic without people just sitting at the tables admiring the view and not spending any money.

After sitting down your drinks order is taken and within a few minutes they delivered to your table, and you are asked to order your food. Although quick, there is more than enough time to decide what to eat as the lunchtime menu is rather limited.

Like the drinks the food arrived very quickly. I admit that I am very skeptical when meals are served so quickly as I am not a lover of the "fast food" concept since I usually find it under cooked and un-nutritional rubbish, so when our meals arrived so quickly I was surprised since it looked like a proper meal.

All meat dishes are served with a green salad, pasta, rice, vegetables and handmade chips, with the standard basket of bread. Given the cheap cost the portion sizes are large enough to satisfy a good appetite, but not so large you’re going to feel sick after polishing off your plate, and let’s face it I always finish everything when it comes to Turkish cuisine.

The food doesn’t disappoint and is just as tasty as similar items bought in more expensive and "proper" restaurants, which surprised me somewhat. It just goes to show you don’t need to spend a fortune to get some decent food.

****Conclusion****

Overall, Pasa is a fantastic place to eat. Whilst the lunchtime menu is rather limited, there is something for everyone. The tout is very friendly and helpful, as are the staff, who are also very fast and efficient. The food will arrive quickly but there’s no need to panic as it is all properly cooked and appears to be very fresh, not surprising given the turn around and churn of diners this place seems to attract.

The food is cheap but very tasty and represents excellent value for money. Despite the gorgeous views of the lake, and the nice surroundings of the water feature, rockery and shrubbery this is not a place where you can spend a long time admiring and soaking up the atmosphere since you are rushed in and rushed out quite quickly. This is not a bad thing since most people use this as a stop-gap for a quick bite whilst waiting to board their boat and move on to the next destination.

The small town of Koycegiz holds a weekly market on a Tuesday, and being a bit of a "touristy" town this market attracts many tourists from neighboring towns and villages.

Getting to the market from Dalyan is best done by boat, although this takes around an hour. That said, it does give you a chance to kick back, relax and enjoy the gorgeous scenery of the area, so you have to make sure you have a camera handy. Funnily enough, Koycegiz is located on the other side of Lake Koycegiz, and this is one massive expanse of water. It actually takes about 10 minutes to get from Dalyan to Lake Koycegiz and the remainder of the trip is simply crossing the lake. Whilst the lake is breathtakingly beautiful, I found the journey did get a bit tedious. After all the scenery did not change, nothing new happened and other than the odd grebe, there was little life on the lake. You could see the town of Koycegiz in the distance and it was coming closer and closer and closer, but not quick enough for my liking.

Once ashore and on the quayside we were faced by a restaurant tout who pointed us in the right direction of the market and quickly showed us the lunch time menu. The tout was helpful , friendly and since the restaurant was right by the moorings it was obvious where we were going to dine before heading back to Dalyan in the early afternoon.

The market is actually divided in to two parts. The largest part predominantly sells food, although there are stalls selling house-ware and souvenirs, and the smaller part sells everything else (including clothing, bags, house-ware, souvenirs, tobacco etc. etc).

The market is a busy and vibrant place. It is hot, sweaty, smelly, and buyers, sellers and browsers are shoulder to shoulder with little room for maneuver. It is absolutely crowded out. I actually found it quite claustrophobic so if you are a person that likes a bit of space then this probably is not for you. It is quite difficult to describe how suffocating it is and it is something of an experience.

Despite the above, I actually enjoyed the buzz and the vibe of the place. The food section was absolutely fascinating and whilst it had the usual potatoes, tomatoes, chillies etc. that you’d find back in England I did note these were much larger, more colorful and smelled much nicer. These were "true" organic vegetables and you can really tell the difference. The market did smell a bit sweaty and unpleasant but the smell of the food did weaken it somewhat, and the spices totally over powered it.

The spice stalls were something else and there were loads of different types available. What I really liked was the fact the spices were easily accessible and the sellers were more than happy to let you remove the lid and inhale deeply (not always advisable as I found out to my discomfort) or let you try a little (again, not advisable as some of the spices are very, very hot).

The sellers can be very, very intimidating and aggressive in their selling techniques. The opening line is usually "hello my friend [offers handshake], how are you? You want something special? Here we have….." A simple "no" will not suffice here and the seller will step it up a gear. If you stand around the hard sell really starts and it is very difficult to walk away. The only way around this is o either ignore, or say "no" and carry on walking. Whilst it is very rude (and I hate doing it) it is often the only way. The only way to avoid these situations are to look whilst walking (never stop) and don’t make eye contact with the seller.

Be wary of people selling jewelry as I found these the worst. My other half was wearing a couple of bangles and earrings and was instantly picked out by women selling similar items. The opening dialogue would always start with the question "where did you get your lovely earrings or bangles?" and the ladies would then go in for the kill. They would grab her hand and within a matter of seconds there were bangles half way up her arm and loads of necklaces around her neck. For every one I took off the lady would replace it with two, I couldn’t get them off quick enough. The price kept falling and falling as the sellers tried to bag a sale. This was a very intimidating experience and after we managed to get away all my other half’s jewelry was removed and put in her bag. Any other sellers that asked if she wanted a bangle was then told "she doesn’t wear any jewelry".

Whilst I found the food section interesting the rest of the market failed to impress me. There were counterfeit designer clothes, leather, bags, sports gear and the like, as well as fragrances galore. This is nothing different to other tourist destinations and would have been fine if I wanted some clothing or aftershave, but the items available were absolute tat and I could easily go and buy the same item in Dalyan for much less without having to haggle so hard.

The souvenir and house ware stalls were also exactly like the ones in Dalyan, which was a shame. I was expecting to find something different and unique, something that you can only get from Koycegiz but it wasn’t to be.

There were also plenty of tobacco stalls, which kept the tobacco in large potato sacks. I am not a smoker, although nearly all of my family smokes roll ups, but even I noticed how coarse the tobacco was. It was also very pungent, which was not good. The stall holders assured us it was genuine brands (Golden Virginia and Drum etc) but given it was about £2 per kilo there was no way it was the real deal. Besides, I know what Golden Virginia is like and this was way off the mark.

After about an hour and a half, and having had a proper look around the food stalls, I got a bit bored of looking at the same old tat, being aggressively touted by stall holders, being nudged about in the crammed conditions, sweating in the unbearable heat and being held up by the amount of people and decided to call it a day.

****Conclusion****

The trip to Koycegiz market was a mixed bag for me. I loved the hustle and bustle and the atmosphere around the place. There was a definite buzz and it is something that has got to be experienced. That said, I could only manage it for a short while as the novelty soon wore off and it all became a bit tedious.

Other than the food stalls, I was disappointed with the rest of the goods on offer as I was looking for something different but failed to find it.

Would I recommend a trip to the market? I would but you would have to go knowing you are going to be touted by aggressive sellers, it is hot sticky and crammed and you are only going to find the normal tourist tat for sale.

****The trip****

Being a keen angler I always make it my mission find a fishing trip whilst on holiday. I have always been fascinated by marine life and the different types that are prevalent in different countries. Whilst in Dalyan I noticed there were only two types of fishing trip available, one at sea and the other in what was referred to as "the hidden lake".

The pictures of the hidden lake looked fantastic, the blurb on the advertising poster stated there were numerous fish and the tour operator recommended it highly (not really surprising given they were looking for a sale), so I just had to book a trip and give it a go.

****Price****

Compared to other tours and excursions around Dalyan, the hidden lake fishing trip is not a cheap excursion and we paid £35 each. However, compared to a day out in the UK it is quite cheap and represents excellent value for money.

****Lunch****

Lunch is included in the price and consists of the usual Turkish mezes, main course (being meatballs, chicken and beef), green salad and a never-ending supply of bread.

****My experience****

The clue is definitely in the name with this excursion. The "hidden" lake can be found right up in the mountains about a mile above sea level. I never knew places like this existed and I was dumb founded when we finally reached the fishing spot.

The journey to the lake was almost as much fun as the fishing. Although the lake is only a few miles from the drop off point, which is about 10 miles outside Dalyan, it took just under 2 hours to get there. Getting a mile above sea level through meandering mountain roads at ridiculously steep gradients takes a while, and once the tarmac changes to mud/shale and rough terrain you know the mini bus is going to start to struggle somewhat. That said we did reach our destination and we did get back safely.

The journey up the mountain is amazing and provides some breath taking views, especially over Lake Koycegiz and through two picturesque villages, so a camera is a must have. If you are not good with heights then this trip is not one for you, especially given the sheer drop on one side of the track. Driving up the mountain appeared to be a difficult task (given the sharp bends, un-even track surface, slippery shale sections, large rocks and the "drop" if anything went wrong) so hats off to the driver.

The lake and the surrounding area are stunning. It is very peaceful and quiet, not surprising given the location and mesmerizing and being in a low spot it is surrounded by even more mountains. It really is a place where you can be at one with nature.

Despite the location the fishing lodge and lake complex is definitely geared up for tourism. The lodge is large and modern with all the required facilities and consists of a dining room, a kitchen and a couple of other rooms where you can sit and get out of the sun and away from the fishing. There are fully functional western style toilets and showers in a block just behind the lodge. There is also an outside dining area with a roof to shade from the sun and other shaded areas with hammocks and seating.

Upon arrival you are given a quick briefing about the area, the lodge and the lake. You are also informed that the lake holds trout (only rainbow though), small wild fish ("silver" fish) and common carp. We were also told that all trout (unless very small) are to be retained, and all carp are to be photographed and returned to the water unharmed.

The fishing tackle provided was very primitive and consisted of a telescopic rod (there were a few lengths available for those anglers that like a shorter rod), a fixed spool reel fully loaded with line, an old fashioned cork float that looked like something out of the sixties and a large fully barbed hook (a bit barbaric in my opinion). We were also presented with a net to get the fish out of the water and a wire cage, which was used to keep our catch. Whilst primitive it was up to the job and I suppose I should be grateful for this since most of the anglers around Turkey seem to favour hand lines, and I have never been able to use these.

Over the years I have enjoyed all types of angling, from basic coarse to specimen to sea to pike to carp, however I must stress that this was not type of fishing as it was just too barbaric. Basically, we were given a small piece of dough to catch a "silver" fish. Once caught, the silver fish were instantly cut up (still alive) and used as bait to catch the "prize" fish being the trout. I have never used fish to catch fish, whether dead or alive and I did find this quite disturbing. However, there was no other bait available and having paid for this excursion, and being stuck up a mountain with nothing to do but fish, I opted to join the crowd. There are plenty of fish in the lake, but they are a bit of a challenge to catch so it doesn’t get boring at all. It is not a "fish a chuck" but you will catch a few, so it is a good day all round.

Once you get over the barbaric fishing method it is actually quite good fun, and having never caught a trout before (fly-fishing has never been my thing) I was amazed at how hard these little blighters scrap, they really do put a bend in the rod. I found it strange the only trout were rainbow as I would have thought brown trout and wild trout would have also thrived in such a setting. It is a question I never got answered.

The carp are elusive, not surprising given that carp usually feed during the early morning and evenings when it is cooler (they sun bath on the surface during the day light), although I was lucky to catch one. At just over 3Kg it wasn’t huge but it did give a lovely scrap, and it was the only carp of the day so I got a beer for it.

The cooks did a great job with the food, which was made out of fresh ingredients and looked, and tasted fantastic. Out of all the excursions I would say that this was the best lunch we had. There was also the opportunity to have one of the trout caught in the morning fishing session taken straight off the BBQ. The trout I had was caught an hour or so before eating, so to say this was fresh is a bit of an understatement. One thing I did notice was there is a distinct lack of drinks on site. There is a fridge in the lodge, from which you can purchase drinks, but the range is limited to beer, water and some kind of juice drink.

Being so high up it is vital you liberally apply the sun cream to prevent burning. At this altitude you also have to contend with the breeze, which also seems to cause burning as well as drying lips out.

****Conclusion****

Overall, this is a great trip and one that I cannot recommend highly enough. The setting is amazing and I have never been to a lake so high above sea level before. The fishing is not as frantic as some other venues I have been to, which is good as it allows you to sit back, chill out and really soak up the atmosphere of the lake, and appreciate the beauty of the site. On most other fishing excursions I have been on the journey is usually tedious but not with this trip. The journey to and from the lake is great and really adds to the experience, and being so high up and travelling at such slow speeds, it also allows for some great pictures.

The guides are very friendly. As well as approachable and will leave you alone, unless you specifically ask for assistance. I found this great, as I hate it when over friendly guides keep coming over to make small talk.

The fishing is a bit barbaric but at least you eat what you catch (providing it is trout of course), or it is sold on by the owners of the fishing complex. There are some huge carp in this lake and they can be seen basking in the sun on the surface and milling around the margins scoffing so there is a chance you may just hook that Moby Dick, although it is unlikely with the ravenous trout that seem to find the bait first.

****The mud baths****

The mud baths are a natural phenomenon that is near Dalyan. There are actually two sites, both of which are almost identical, giving the tourists a choice. The first site is a fifteen minute boat trip from the river side of Dalyan and the other on the edge of Lake Koycegiz which is a thirty minute boat trip. For obvious reasons the one on the banks of Lake Koycegiz is quieter. Having been to both I can honestly say that I prefer the Lake Koycegiz site because at this site you can actually take a dip in the lake in safety and not have to dodge the boat traffic.

****Why do it?****

Having a natural mud bath is meant to exfoliate the skin and remove all dead skin cells, moisturise the skin and heal the skin in order to rejuvenate your face and make you pretty. This is the spiel you get to encourage the tourists to spend money and participate, although I just see it as a chance to regress back to my youth and roll around, and get dirty without being told off. And all this can be done in a foreign country, where other people are doing the same thing and won’t bat an eyelid.

****The process****

The process is very simple, and fully explained as you enter the complex. It is simply a case of:

i) Jumping in the mud bath
ii) Rubbing mud on your skin
iii) Drying the mud out in the sun
iv) Jumping in to the lake to wash the mud off (optional)
v) Having a shower to wash off excess mud and have a clean up

Once all the mud is off it is then time to take a dip in the thermal pools to have a bit of a relax and complete the process.

****Cost****

The cost to enter the site, have a mud bath and enjoy the thermal springs costs around £5 per person, which I consider very cheap especially given the amount of smiles per pound. Obviously, drinks and refreshments are extra. I should also point out that the only way to get to the mud baths is by boat so this needs to be factored in to the cost.

Overall a trip will cost around £8 - £10 per person, depending on who you use to get to the site. This is a popular excursion and there are loads of boats that will take you there. Many operators will add this experience in whilst doing another excursion, but not all of them. Walking down by the riverside it is likely you will get touted by boat owners and given the opportunity to be taken to the mud baths on a private hire boat. These trips are very expensive and I would highly recommend using the public boats which frequently go throughout the day.

***My experience****

On entering the complex it is soon obvious that this place is geared up for tourism. The natural mud bath is encased in a man-made pool, the natural springs have been caught in a ‘proper swimming pool’ and the whole area has been concreted, filled with refreshment bars and made to look pretty. Personally, I think it is very clever how the Turks have made something so commercial out of something so natural.

Jumping in the mud bath is a surreal experience. Upon entering, you obviously sink in the mud and it squelches between your toes, a feeling that is weird but pleasant at the same time. I was expecting the mud to be cold but it is very warm. I was expecting the mud to smell, and whilst it did have a bit of a stench it wasn’t half as bad as I was expecting. Besides, the pungent smell of the thermal springs over powers everything on site. The mud is kept soft and pliable by having about a foot of water mixed with it. This also adds to the enjoyment as it allows you to dive, splash or float whilst enjoying the moisturising properties of the mud.

The amount of mud people put on their skin varies greatly. Some go the whole hog and cakes everything, including their hair, whilst others will just give themselves a face pack. These are obviously the two extremes and most will be somewhere in between. My thoughts were "you’re in it so go for it" so I was a bit gun-ho, although I wouldn’t recommend putting it in your hair. The mud is a real pain to wash out fully so it is worth bearing this in mind before you go in all guns blazing.

I was expecting the mud to be coarse and stony, so when I discovered it was actually a smooth texture I had no issues with liberally rubbing it in my skin. There is some small pieces of grit, which is to be expected, but these don’t hurt at all. It is a bit like using a commercial body and exfoliating scrub at home.

Suitably caked in mud I set out to dry. Drying times depend on how much mud you put on, what parts of the body you put the mud on and how thick you put the mud on. To speed up the drying process you need to keep rotating in the sun, a bit like a pig on a spit. The drying process is not particularly pleasant and makes the skin go very tight, especially around the mouth and eyes and it becomes quite difficult to speak and blink.

Once the mud was dry, in all honesty I had just about had enough of standing out in the sun doing nothing, it was time for the clean-up. I noticed that jumping in the lake was much more effective than showering alone so this was the route I took. Besides, I couldn’t resist having a swim. I should note that the lake is exceptionally cold and entering the water in a cannon ball was a shock, although you soon get used to the temperatures. The lake is gorgeous but very deep, even around the edges, so if you are not a confident swimmer I would not recommend this.

The showers are warm, which is great after the coldness of the lake, and very powerful, which is essential to get the mud off. The mud is a nightmare to get off and, as a warning it gets everywhere, and I mean in every nook and cranny. It is also difficult to get out of swimming shorts and it will discolour them slightly. For this reason I would recommend not wearing white or light coloured swim wear, for obvious reasons.

As its name suggests the thermal pools are warm, but a lot warmer than I was expecting. Think a hot bath and you’re getting somewhere close. The pools are full of sulphur and smell like rotten eggs, which is not pleasant, but you need to get over this smell and dive in to really appreciate the experience, so it is a case of peg your nose and go for it.

****Conclusion****

A visit to Dalyan would not be complete with a trip to one of the mud baths. There is the argument that mud soothes the skin, rejuvenates it, makes it healthier and give and gives you a glow but I have doubts over how effective it is. After the experience my skin felt smoother and was tingling, but given I had just scrubbed a couple of layers off it I was not surprised by this.

In my opinion the mud baths is nothing more than an excuse to get dirty and not feel bad about it and little more. This is not a bad thing though, far from it in fact, as there is a great atmosphere around the site. Look around and every one is smiling, and there aren’t many places I can think of where this happens.

The secluded and private location, and the fact that everyone is there for the same thing is what creates this atmosphere and makes this such a great place. You don’t get passers by looking down their noses or giving disapproving stares. You don’t get people just sat there staring in wonder. Everyone is there for the same thing and that is to enjoy the mud.

The mud baths represents great value for money and is much cheaper, and more fun, than having an all over mud pack. Give it a go, you won’t be disappointed.

The closest beach to Dalyan is Izutzu Beach, which is more affectionately known as "turtle" beach since it is a nesting site for the rare loggerhead turtle ("Caretta Caretta"). Being used by loggerheads the beach and its surrounding area remains un-developed, despite numerous planning applications to get the site developed to cater for tourists. During the last planning application the development opposition included David Bellamy, who fought for the logger head’s safe haven. A compromise was struck allowing the turtles to keep their nesting place and tourists to use the beach, and this arrangement appears to work very well.

There are two ways of getting to the beach from Dalyan. The first is by bus, which leaves regularly from the centre of town. A return trip will cost around 5 YTL, which for a 50 minute round trip is very reasonable. The other way is to catch a boat from the river side. At 45 minutes each way the trip is slightly longer but the views are so much better and it is an ideal time to kick back, relax, take some photos and enjoy the scenery. The boat is a little more expensive for a return trip, but the additional cost is so much worth it.

Down the riverside of Dalyan you will be touted for boat trips to the beach. Many owners will give you private hire but this is very expensive and I would avoid this at all costs. The best way is to look for the Coop boats. These are public and cost 8 YTL return. The public boats to the beach run every half an hour and return on the hour. If you take the boat you will not be able to catch a return any earlier than 1.00 pm. The boats then run hourly from then with the last one leaving at 6.00 pm. The beach is prohibited from 7.00 pm and is reserved solely for the logger heads.

If you take the boat trip to the beach, the views are stunning. Along the way you will see the rock tombs, Kaunos and the reed beds. In addition, you will see plenty of ‘pretty’ boats, river side restaurants and lots of wildlife. There is so much to look at.

Once at the beach there is a boardwalk from the quayside to the sun loungers. It is geared up for tourism.

In the middle of the beach there is a ‘no sun bath’ area situated between the sun loungers and parasols, and the sea. This is the area where the loggerheads lay their eggs and in order to ensure the nests (and more importantly the eggs) are not damaged tourists are only allowed to walk through this area to get to the sea. This rule is strictly enforced, although 99.9% of people do not break this rule anyway. One thing I did notice in the "no go" area whilst walking to the sea was little "scratch" lines. These are the marks left by the baby turtles as they drag themselves to the sea for the first time, hence proving logger heads really do breed here.

Lined along the beach are the typical sun loungers and parasols that you find on most touristy beaches. For 6 YTL you get two sun loungers and a parasol for the whole day, which is cheaper than many beaches I have been on and is great value for money. Whilst the loungers are quite close together, they are far enough apart not to be too cosy, unlike other beaches I have been on.

For those true sun worshippers there is always the beach beyond the "no go" area, which is quite narrow. Strangely enough, on the three occasions we went to the beach there were loads of unused sun loungers as all the tourists were crammed on to the beach. The phrase "mad dogs and English men" springs to mind, but each to their own.

One thing I should point out is the heat of the sand, which I found to be almost unbearable on bare feet. Despite the sand being golden, I can honestly say it was hotter than the black sands of St Vincent by a long way. Consequently, the hottest sand is in the "no go" area so there was no getting away from it when going for a dip.

The sea in this area is gorgeous. It is crystal blue and very warm, although it is very salty. This beach is ideal for children and those people who aren’t confident in the water because the beach is a long shelf that gradually goes down deeper, with no sudden holes or dips. There are no strong under currents, or rib tides, the waves are small (making it useless for surfing or body boarding) and the sea is almost like glass. Underfoot is pure sand with no rocks, little weed and few creatures. There are sea creatures in the area but you actually have to go looking for them, which suits me down to the ground.

The view around the bay is stunning as all around are mountains and lush green forests. Out to sea are rocky bays and islands and over to the horizon you can see other parts of the land. I found the views breath taking and a camera is a must have.

One other thing I noticed was how clean the beach is compared to others I have been on. There are plenty of rubbish bins about, like there are on many other beaches, however, people at Turtle Beach actually use them. I would even say the beach is immaculate.

****Conclusion****

If you are staying in Dalyan a trip to Turtle Beach is a must do and I would advise going by boat to really appreciate the experience. Taking a bus is OK, but it is nowhere near as good as taking the public boat, and at a couple of YTL more the price differential is tiny.

The views to the beach, at the beach and surrounding the beach are breath taking and you have to experience it to really get a feel for it. No photo can do this type of scenery justice, no matter how expensive the camera or good the photographer.

The closest beach to Dalyan is Izutzu Beach, which is more affectionately known as "turtle" beach since it is a nesting site for the rare loggerhead turtle ("Caretta Caretta"). Being used by loggerheads the beach and its surrounding area remains un-developed, despite numerous planning applications to get the site developed to cater for tourists. During the last planning application the development opposition included David Bellamy, who fought for the logger head’s safe haven. A compromise was struck allowing the turtles to keep their nesting place and tourists to use the beach, and this arrangement appears to work very well.

There are two ways of getting to the beach from Dalyan. The first is by bus, which leaves regularly from the centre of town. A return trip will cost around 5 YTL, which for a 50 minute round trip is very reasonable. The other way is to catch a boat from the river side. At 45 minutes each way the trip is slightly longer but the views are so much better and it is an ideal time to kick back, relax, take some photos and enjoy the scenery. The boat is a little more expensive for a return trip, but the additional cost is so much worth it.

Down the riverside of Dalyan you will be touted for boat trips to the beach. Many owners will give you private hire but this is very expensive and I would avoid this at all costs. The best way is to look for the Coop boats. These are public and cost 8 YTL return. The public boats to the beach run every half an hour and return on the hour. If you take the boat you will not be able to catch a return any earlier than 1.00 pm. The boats then run hourly from then with the last one leaving at 6.00 pm. The beach is prohibited from 7.00 pm and is reserved solely for the logger heads.

If you take the boat trip to the beach, the views are stunning. Along the way you will see the rock tombs, Kaunos and the reed beds. In addition, you will see plenty of ‘pretty’ boats, river side restaurants and lots of wildlife. There is so much to look at.

Once at the beach there is a boardwalk from the quayside to the sun loungers. It is geared up for tourism.

In the middle of the beach there is a ‘no sun bath’ area situated between the sun loungers and parasols, and the sea. This is the area where the loggerheads lay their eggs and in order to ensure the nests (and more importantly the eggs) are not damaged tourists are only allowed to walk through this area to get to the sea. This rule is strictly enforced, although 99.9% of people do not break this rule anyway. One thing I did notice in the "no go" area whilst walking to the sea was little "scratch" lines. These are the marks left by the baby turtles as they drag themselves to the sea for the first time, hence proving logger heads really do breed here.

Lined along the beach are the typical sun loungers and parasols that you find on most touristy beaches. For 6 YTL you get two sun loungers and a parasol for the whole day, which is cheaper than many beaches I have been on and is great value for money. Whilst the loungers are quite close together, they are far enough apart not to be too cosy, unlike other beaches I have been on.

For those true sun worshippers there is always the beach beyond the "no go" area, which is quite narrow. Strangely enough, on the three occasions we went to the beach there were loads of unused sun loungers as all the tourists were crammed on to the beach. The phrase "mad dogs and English men" springs to mind, but each to their own.

One thing I should point out is the heat of the sand, which I found to be almost unbearable on bare feet. Despite the sand being golden, I can honestly say it was hotter than the black sands of St Vincent by a long way. Consequently, the hottest sand is in the "no go" area so there was no getting away from it when going for a dip.

The sea in this area is gorgeous. It is crystal blue and very warm, although it is very salty. This beach is ideal for children and those people who aren’t confident in the water because the beach is a long shelf that gradually goes down deeper, with no sudden holes or dips. There are no strong under currents, or rib tides, the waves are small (making it useless for surfing or body boarding) and the sea is almost like glass. Underfoot is pure sand with no rocks, little weed and few creatures. There are sea creatures in the area but you actually have to go looking for them, which suits me down to the ground.

The view around the bay is stunning as all around are mountains and lush green forests. Out to sea are rocky bays and islands and over to the horizon you can see other parts of the land. I found the views breath taking and a camera is a must have.

One other thing I noticed was how clean the beach is compared to others I have been on. There are plenty of rubbish bins about, like there are on many other beaches, however, people at Turtle Beach actually use them. I would even say the beach is immaculate.

****Conclusion****

If you are staying in Dalyan a trip to Turtle Beach is a must do and I would advise going by boat to really appreciate the experience. Taking a bus is OK, but it is nowhere near as good as taking the public boat, and at a couple of YTL more the price differential is tiny.

The views to the beach, at the beach and surrounding the beach are breath taking and you have to experience it to really get a feel for it. No photo can do this type of scenery justice, no matter how expensive the camera or good the photographer.

All excursion boards claim the 12 Island Tour of Gocek is the most popular excursion, and based on the fact these tours are offered by almost every single tour operator on a daily basis this claim cannot be disputed.

****Format of the day****

The day commences with a bus journey (transfers are included from your hotel) from Dalyan to Gocek harbour, which is approximately half an hour away. Once in the harbour you are shown to the boat.

Whilst the assistant carries out all the relevant checks etc. the captain serves traditional Turkish tea and wafers. With the checks complete the anchor is raised and the boat sets off around the bay and all the twelve islands.

During the morning the boat stops for three swimming stops. At the first stop off point there is an island where you can purchase pancakes, which are highly recommended.

The second stop is in a disused ship building yard/bay. The remains of the yard have been submersed in water and now provide a great location for lots of fish and marine life. This is an excellent place for snorkelling, although you do need to be careful of the urchins.

At the third stop there is a lighthouse that has fallen in to the water. This is a haven for fish and other marine life and is another superb snorkelling place. It is possible to stand on the top of the lighthouse (which is about 3 feet under the water), which is a really surreal feeling. After a bit more swimming lunch is served.

After lunch and a fourth stop is made on the edge of another island, where you get the chance for another swim. There is also the opportunity to go in a ring, paragliding or on a banana boat.

The fourth stop is at the furthest island from the harbour, so once the swimming has stopped the boat makes its way back, and stops for one last time.

On arrival in the harbour you are met by your tour operator who drives you back to your hotel.

****The boat****

There are many different boats that run the 12 Island Cruise and the type of boat will depend on the tour operator you book the excursion through. The boats range from cheap and nasty looking double-decker plastic type boats to "old style" wooden sailing boats to ultra modern sleek sports boats.

Out tour was on a gullet, which is fantastic. At there front there is a sun deck, complete with sun loungers, enabling all those on board to enjoy the scenery whilst soaking up the sun. The back of the boat has a tarpaulin cover over it providing shade for the ultra fierce midday sun. There are also seats in the top cabin which are also in the shade. Below deck is a fully functioning toilet, a large galley and 5 bedrooms. We only had access to the toilet and galley during our time of the boat, so I didn’t get to have a look at the state of the sleeping quarters, which was a bit of a shame.

****Lunch and drinks****

Lunch, is included in the price and consisted of plenty of bread, green salad, tomatoes, garlic, onions, meze, meatballs, pasta, rice and a chicken stew. Like lunch on all these excursions it was made out of fresh ingredients that were very tasty. After lunch melon, watermelon and figs were served for desert. The captain did a fantastic job, especially given it was done on board, and I really can’t fault the food.

Soft and alcoholic drinks are stored in an icebox on board. These are an additional cost. The price of the drinks is the same as you would pay in any café, bar or restaurant, despite the captive audience.

****My experience****

This is one of the most popular excursions and there are many tour operators that can sort out a trip for you. The price tends to vary greatly but then this is one trip where you get what you pay for and, believe me, it is not always best to go for the cheapest option.

We did the 12 islands cruise during our first visit to Turkey and we did not appreciate the difference between the trips. Whilst the format is exactly the same and all tours include transfers to and from the hotel, the boat trip and lunch. In addition, the locations and bays you stop at are the same regardless of the boat you are on or the tour operator you used. The difference lies in the type of boat, quality of lunch and overall experience.

On our first trip we went on a plastic style double-decker boat where loads of people were crammed in. The food was mediocre and in short supply and there were not enough loungers for everyone onboard. Whilst we enjoyed our first 12 Island Cruise, I thought I would go for the most expensive trip this time around, and I am so glad I did. We shared the boat with two families with a total of five teenage children and a pair of older ladies, resulting in a total of 12 people on board. The amount of people was perfect and we all got on very well. The kids were a really good crack (the diving/belly flopping/cannon ball competitions were a really good laugh), the parents were very friendly and the two older ladies had some great stories to tell. What made it even better was that everyone enjoyed their own space and time as well as socialising so you didn’t have any of those annoying people that would shadow your every movement and get in the way.

The food was top class and much better than on our previous trip. The meatballs were cooked to perfection, the salad was freshly made and contained the perfect amount of dressing, the hotpot was gorgeous and the bread was just so soft. In addition there was loads to go around. Being such a small group meant we all sat around the same table chatting, eating and having a good laugh

The size of the group also meant that everyone could have their own sun-lounger and their own spot in the shade. There was no battling with any sun worshippers to get a spot in the sun, nor were there any battles with shade seekers in getting a spot under the cover when the fierce afternoon sun set in.

The captain and his assistant were top class and really made us feel welcome. By the broken English it was apparent that neither were fluent but both tried very hard and told us all about the Islands, those important people that had their private yachts moored around bay and the owners of the smaller Islands. A lot of it made no sense, but then it didn’t really matter as we were all there fir the views, the sun and the sea. The history was a nice touch but not necessary, even though both were very charismatic and had that "something" about them that made everyone warm to them.

During our swimming stops the captain joined in with our jumping/diving competitions making him a part of the group. For those of us that can’t dive to the bottom and open our eyes under water (I am one of those people that seem to float in both freshwater and sea water) he went down and got us some trinkets and souvenirs (shells and dead urchins) to take home.

The water sports was very expensive, with a 10 minute session in the rings costing approximately £20 per person.

At every stop we were pestered by mobile ice-cream boats. I admit these are a great idea, especially given the fierce sun we experienced, but I should note that the ice cream is very, very expensive. For example, a Magnum was 8 YTL (approx £3.33) and these can be bough in a supermarket for 2 YTL. These boats really exploit the tourist.

****Conclusion****

The 12 Islands Tour is an excursion that I cannot recommend highly enough and it is a must do if you go to this area of Turkey. The scenery is great, the water is crystal clear and it is a great day out. The best thing about this tour is that it suits all budgets. If you are on a shoe-string budget then you can do a plastic double-decker "stack ‘em high and sell ‘em cheap" trip with loads of people or you can opt for the more expensive gullet style trip. Whatever trip you decide on you are going to see the same views, stop at the same bays and get to swim/snorkel in exactly the same areas. Having done the cheapest and the most expensive I would say go for the gullet trip as the experience is much better all round.

****History****

Years ago the ancient city of Kaunos was located in the historical region of Caria near the border with Lycia and right near the coastline on an isolated rocky hill that was surrounded by marshes. The shallow waters around Kaunos were a fantastic source of fish and salt, so the population survived by trading these natural resources, however its most famous export was figs, which were exported to Rome.

The kings and most prominent citizens of Kaunos built their tombs the way Lycians did. The tombs started off small and soon got larger and larger and the design changed to represent small temples, hence the smaller tombs are the older ones. All tombs were raided by thieves, and the contents pinched a long time ago.
The location of the ancient harbour can still be seen although it is no longer linked to the sea. This ‘lake’ is no affectionately known as Suluku Golu "the Pond of the leeches".

Most of the buildings next to the harbour are of the Roman period. Kaunos consisted of a tholos (circular temple) surrounded by a square portico. The ancient theatre of Kaunos was built by excavating the slope of the hill. Later on additional rows of seat were added, along with underground galleries.

****My experience****

In all honesty, I have never used to be one for ancient ruins, they just tended to bore me rigid, however y other half has a fascination for mythology, ancient ruins and history and whilst she has tried to pass this off on me it hadn’t worked. If I was in Dalyan on my own, or with a group of male friends, then there is no way I would have even contemplated going to Kaunos ruins. The only reason I went was to entertain my other half.

It is very easy to get to Kaunos from Dalyan and it involves crossing the river followed by a hike of about a mile the other side. Crossing the river involves getting in a small rowing boat and getting chauffeured across the river, costing around £1 return. The lady who rowed us across the river must have been in her seventies and I did feel very guilty and offered to row but she declined.

On the other side of the river is a small wooden shack selling pancakes, drinks and other refreshments with lots of outside seating. It is definitely geared up for tourism. The path to the ancient city of Kaunos is clearly marked so it is simply a case of following the path.

The walk to Kaunos is hard work with most of it being up a steep gradient although there is an even road surface, which makes it a little easier. There is no cover from the sun and it can get very, very hot so it is advisable to take a hat and plenty of sun cream and apply it regularly. Despite being a tough walk the scenery is breath taking and there are excellent views of the rock tombs all the way up to Kaunos. Upon reaching the perimeter fence of the site the only way in is through the official gate. We were met by a smiling attendant and after handing over about 50p each we were told to have fun but look out for the scorpions and snakes.

Walking in to the site I must admit that I was still not that impressed but, with my other half acting like a child at Christmas, I thought I had better get in to the spirit of things and make like I was excited. Once I was in the mindset of ‘I’m here – I need to deal with this’ I must admit that I actually found it enjoyable. Whilst much of the remains are small and uninspiring there are a few that are very well preserved and quite complete, with the main attraction being the amphitheatre.

The amphitheatre is very, very well preserved and it is massive. I was actually in awe of it, and for the first time ever at any ruins (at least I think it is) I actually started to imagine what it may have been like when in use. When there are no guides yapping on, disruptive school children shouting and misbehaving and no irate teachers disciplining the children I find it is very easy to get soaked up in the atmosphere and get lost in the moment.

From the heights of the amphitheatre, you can see for miles around, and once again, the views are just indescribably awesome. There are fields, marshland and a lake (which was the old harbour) that was linked to the sea in years gone by. If you ever get to go to the ancient city of Kaunos make sure you have a camera for the scenery, if not the ruins themselves.

The rest of the ruins aren’t as impressive as the amphitheatre but they are well worth a look. What I really liked was that we could get up close and personal. Nothing was roped off and we could get to absolutely everything, unlike many of the ancient sites in the UK where you can’t get within 300m of the ruin "in order to make sure it lasts for another thousand years" or "just in case it falls down". Whilst I see the reasoning for this, in reality there is no need for such stringent measures and the ancient city of Kaunos is living proof of that. Many tourists enjoy the site each year and it is still standing, even though the tourists are given the opportunity to climb up ruins, swing off things etc, in reality most don’t and they will respect the site and not take parts away as a souvenir.

There is always someone, or something, on the site as it is the grazing land of several goats. I never actually saw a vicious or boisterous goat although they are inquisitive and will come over and say hello. They are easy to get rid of with a wave of hands and a sharp "shoo". I would not recommend chasing them away because there is a chance they are going to come back at you once your back is turned. Because of the goats there is a lot of dung around so I would recommend leaving the flip flops for the resort and wear some sensible foot wear.

I never actually saw any scorpions (much to my disappointment) or snakes despite keeping a close eye out for them. I did, however, see many different types of lizards and reptiles, although none of them were anything special. Despite this seeing the wildlife does add to the experience.

I should stress that there is no shade on the site at all and the only way to get out of the sun is to crouch behind some ruins, which is not good. If you do get to experience the ruins I would highly suggest taking a hat and some cream and cover up, whether it is sunny or not. If you do get caught short of a drink whilst on site there is a wooden kiosk, and souvenir shop, selling refreshments.

The site is not massive and it is possible to have a good look around in approximately 3 hours. Despite this you are free to stay there all day and there is plenty of grassy areas to have a pic-nic and sunbathe. Just remember to watch out for the goat dung, and the scorpions and snakes (if you are lucky enough to get near any).

After our trip we ventured back down towards the river. Once we reached the river we were unsure exactly how to hail the boat back and stood there looking over at the water-front of Dalyan. It really is a beautiful and magical place. The old lady caught us looking and waved (the river really isn’t that wide) and jumped in the boat to come and collect us.

****Conclusion****

This was not the most thrill-seeking excursion we did during our stay in Dalyan but it is one I am very pleased we did. If we had not gone I definitely would have missed out on something magical and special, despite my reservations.

I really enjoyed walking around the ruins, touching them and seeing what they are really like. The amphitheatre is something special and having the opportunity to climb to the top most seats was just fantastic, least not for the spectacular views of the Suluku Golu. A great time was had and it cost virtually next to nothing. I would highly recommend going to Kaunos, even if archaeological sites don’t interest you.

****Location****

Ceyhan is located right on the river right, which in my opinion is in prime position. The location is perfect. The kitchen and bar is on one side of the alfresco dining area and the rock faces, containing the Lycian tombs, are on the other side.

During the day this is a very busy place, however during the night it is different and the place is much quieter and more relaxed. The setting is beautiful at night and the rock tombs are illuminated for all to see.

****Food****

The menu consists of traditional Turkish dishes (meat balls, kebaps, grills, salads etc.), which is to be expected especially since this is the case of virtually all restaurants in Dalyan. The restaurant also serves burgers, pizzas and chips for those who prefer these or awkward children. There is something for everyone and all tastes are catered for.

Riverside restaurants seem to demand higher prices for the ‘standard’ meals than restaurants in the middle of town and Ceyhan is no exception. For the non-specialty dishes it is the most expensive restaurant we found. Given the portion sizes aren’t any larger (if anything they are on the small side) and the quality of the food is much the same as everywhere else, the meals are not good value for money so if this is your key objective then I would recommend going elsewhere.

The food looked fantastic and was made out of fresh, local ingredients but then this is the same as in all restaurants in Dalyan, so there were no surprises here. Whilst the food looked great and was very well presented the taste was just mediocre and didn’t get the taste buds tingling like other restaurants.

****Drink****

The bar is well stocked and contains all local drinks (Turkish wines, Effes and Raki amongst the other local spirits) as well as the better known imported drinks. The imported drinks are very expensive, compared to the local beer and spirits, and are roughly the same price as you’d expect to pay in the UK.

As with all restaurants you will be offered water when you order, and as with all restaurants beware because it will be very expensive.

****Staff****

Standing by the menu was an older gentleman, who spoke exceptionally good English, to entice diners in to the restaurant. The man is very complementary and has the gift of the gab and is very good at what he does. When we first arrived in Dalyan it was quite interesting listening to the spiel since it was something different, however, since we had heard it dozens of times over every night it was very boring and tiresome and I basically wanted to yell "we are eating here tonight, just show us to the table", but I couldn’t bring myself to do it because it is just so rude.

As well as the older gentleman by the menu board there was another one walking around speaking to all the diners about a whole manner of things from excursions, family life, how they managed to be in Dalyan, what the weather was doing etc. etc. This man seemed to be able to tell those people who wanted to spend a lot of time talking and those that didn’t, which is a very good skill to have. I am one of those people who will only make small talk for a very short time and after that I get bored and switch off. On many occasions I have had to endure awkward conversations as the waiter or tout just won’t go away, but this man seemed to know exactly when to leave us alone.

The rest of the front of house team, those that did the donkey-work, were young (under 20 years old) Turkish lads. Most of these spoke very poor English and just didn’t seem to understand. They were abrupt, rude, miserable, slow and did a poor job, which is a shame considering the two touts did such a brilliant job.

****My experience****

During our stay in Dalyan this was the worst restaurant we ate in. Don’t get me wrong, the restaurant is not that bad but if you compare it to most of the other restaurants in Dalyan I would put it at the bottom of the pile.

The best thing about this restaurant is the location, which is absolutely perfect. With the river just below you and the infamous Lycian rock tombs in all their glory just over the river and fully illuminated, it is possibly the most romantic setting in Dalyan. However, you do have to make sure you are wearing lots of mosquito repellent, as there are loads of the blighters around dusk. Luckily, Sinkov (The Turkish branded repellent that the locals actually use) is strong stuff and keeps them at bay, although it does sting the eyes and skin and mask any aftershave/perfume you may be wearing, rendering it pretty much useless.

The service was absolutely awful, and something that I had never experienced before in Turkey. The staff were all young males and none of them appeared to speak English. Ordering drinks and the food was actually embarrassing and it got to the point where pointing at the menu and basically shouting the item out was required. I find this "typical British" behaviour of shouting out the words slowly to foreigners very rude, and it is something I have sworn I would never do, but there was no alternative in this case. I was also not alone in this as I noticed, and heard, many other diners doing exactly the same thing.

Once the ordeal of ordering was over the length of time we had to wait was just too much, and the restaurant wasn’t even that busy. Drinks took over 20 minutes to arrive. The complimentary bread, garlic butter and goats’ cheese (this is provided free at all restaurants and comes out before the starters or with the main meal, depending where you go) came out shortly after the drinks. The bread doesn’t take that long to eat (well it doesn’t take the other half and I long) but once we had finished the dirty plates sat there for another half an hour or so. If the restaurant was busy I wouldn’t be overly bothered but the thing that really started to annoy me was the waiting staff walked past several times, after taking drinks and food to other tables, looked at our empty plates and carried on walking. It was like they were all waiting for someone else to do it, which is not the Turkish or British way. When I worked in a restaurant it was a big "no no" to walk past a table with dirty plates and not clear it if you had nothing else in your hands.

By the time the main meals arrived the bread plates still had not been cleared away so there was one large rush and a lot of commotion. All of a sudden there were no less than four waiters at our table with one trying to clear the dirty plates, one trying to lay out new cutlery, one bringing another basket of complimentary bread and one putting the main meals down. It was absolute chaos.

The food was mediocre and OK, but it was nothing to shout about, especially compared to the meals we had eaten during our stay. Perhaps that was the problem, we had eaten so many exquisite meals, most of which makes my taste buds tingling just thinking about it, that the food at Ceyhan is good but not quite good enough. The portion sizes were much smaller than everywhere else we had eaten, which surprised me given it is not the cheapest place to eat but then this is probably down to the location.Riverside restaurants do demand a slight premium, and the fact that the menu is the ‘basic’ stuff that you can get from everywhere else.

On a positive note, we were never pestered by a stray cat, nor did we see any sitting around any of the other tables. I am unsure whether this is because cats don’t like water that much or whether the tout and waiters get rid of them as soon as they are spied. Whatever the reason, it was nice to not to see, let alone be hassled, by a feline.

****Conclusion****

Considering all the other fantastic restaurants in Dalyan, most of which serve tastier food, larger portion sizes, provide much better service, have special dishes and are much cheaper I can’t really recommend Ceyhan unless there is absolutely nowhere else to go.

There is so much potential with this restaurant but it is not being exploited. It could be a fantastic place and one of the top restaurants in Dalyan, especially given the amazing location. The tout is very good and is friendly but the rest of the staff are appalling. They are rude, disorganized and provide an awful service, which is a real shame.

****Why Sini?****

According to the tout, and the website;

"In a traditional Turkish family the people eat together on the floor. They sit at a sort of tablecloth and a large round serving tray with about three or four different kinds of dish. In Turkish this tray is called a "Sini". Around the restaurant you will see traditional Turkish cooking implements, directly opposite the entrance you will see a "Sini".

****Food****

The menu consists of traditional Turkish dishes, like most of the other restaurants in Dalyan. In addition to the more "standard" dishes (such as meat balls, kepabs, shish, mixed grills, casseroles and the like) there were many speciality dishes that are unique to Sini. Such dishes include the clay pots (which are broken in front of you at the table) and different platters, many of which arrive flaming.

A sample of the specialty dishes is as follows:

i) Testi (Claypot) Kebab - with lamb, beef, chicken or fish. Served with vegetables and spices.

ii) Hünkar Bağendi - roasted Lamb and Vegetables on a bed of grilled eggplant and cheese puree.

iii) Terine - a layered delight of toasted bread topped with spinach, your choice of meat and tasty local cheese.

iv) Chef's Special Kebab - a Roulette made with special bread and topped with yogurt, garlic and chili sauce.

v) Piliç Topkapı - chicken breast filled with rice, apricots, liver, raisins and cheese sauce.

vi) Sultan Kebab - smoked meat on a bed of local bread, topped with meatballs rolled with aubergine in tomato sauce.

vii) Ali Nazik - an Eastern Turkey specialty with mince meat, eggplant, yogurt and garlic.

All meals are served with a small side plate of tomatoes, hand-made chips, a jacket potato, spring onions and cold carrot. These are not usual combinations and, in my opinion, they are a bit strange but they do bulk the meal up a bit, which is a good thing because the portion sizes are not particularly large.

Prices of main the main courses vary depending on what you have but the standard dishes are around the same price as other restaurants in the area, which is expected. The speciality dishes are more expensive and the clay pots started at 20YTL for a plain vegetable one and went right up to 40YTL for a mixed seafood dish containing all the trimmings.

The food is made from fresh ingredients that not only taste great but also look good. This is not unique to Sini since food from all restaurants we ate at during our stay was of the same quality.

****Drinks****

The range of drinks available is limited and consisted of local drinks only, which I thought was a bit strange given it was primarily a venue for tourists. There were no premium lagers, imported spirits or wines, just the local beer, Raki, local wines and water.

Whilst ordering the drinks the waiter was pushing a 70cl caraf of "the best" local Turkish wine, and we were considering it until I asked the price. The waiter tried his best to avoid the question and continued with the spiel but finally admitted it was 40YTL per caraf, the same price as both our main courses!! We managed to get a sample out of the waiter, and whilst it was nice, it wasn’t that nice. I noticed all waiters were pushing this wine and I was astounded how many people just said "yes" without asking the price. Just because the food is cheap it doesn’t necessarily mean the drink is cheap, as we had found out. Personally, I think this hard sell technique to exploit tourists, without stating the price is wrong, but I suppose it happens everywhere. I should point out that water is not free and is very expensive, costing more than 4 times the price of a beer.

****Surroundings****

All tables are alfresco, which is ideal when it is dry but not so good during wet weather, but this seems to be the norm around Dalyan. The tables are set in a very attractive looking courtyard that is set back from the road. Pretty shrubs, flowers and plants provide privacy so passers by can’t gawp as they walk past, but then it doesn’t allow for people watching or watching the world go by. Personally, I prefer this kind of set up as it is a lot more intimate.

In the middle of the courtyard is a rubber tree, which we were told is 90 years old. It’s branches are wide reaching and encloses the courtyard even more making it like the ‘secret garden’. We were told that during the day time the rubber tree provides plenty of shade making it an ideal venue for lunch or an afternoon drink, although we never actually ventured in to Sini during the daylight hours.

The courtyard is very quiet and very peaceful making it the ideal restaurant for a romantic night out. Despite their being a road right beside the courtyard it is seldom used by cars so there is very little (if any) traffic noise). There is a lot of pedestrian traffic during the evenings, which is not surprising given the location of the restaurant and the fact it separates the riverside from the town centre, but the shrubbery seems to soak up most of the noise of passers by, unless they are particularly loud.

The courtyard is gorgeous, and in my opinion Sini is the prettiest restaurant in Dalyan and it must be visited, even if you can only manage an afternoon drink.

****Staff****

Overall, the staff are brilliant. One thing to note is they all do the hard sell on the wine and water at the start, but once this is over they completely change and are pleasant, attentive, very helpful and can’t do enough for you. All that and they all seem so happy.
The waiting staff at Sini are also the smartest and best dressed that we came across during our stay. The ‘traditional’ attire of black trousers, white shirt (with big sleeves) and a red sash around the waist looks really good and adds to the eating experience. Just how authentic and traditional these costumes are is any ones’ guess, and I wouldn’t like to comment, but it does look good.

****Restaurant pets****

Around Dalyan there are plenty of stray dogs and cats, most of which seem to hang around the bars and restaurants waiting for tit bits. Sini seems to acttively encourage these stray cats, since it appears to entice the tourists in. Looking around the dining area I noticed almost every occupied table had at least one cat (most had numerous cats) sitting on the floor waiting for some tit bits. Personally, I think it is gross.

****Conclusion****

Sini is one of those strange places that excel in some areas and fail miserably in others. Having a clay pot broken at the table by the waiting staff dressed in the traditional attire was an experience in itself, and one that we did not get in any other restaurant in Dalyan. The location and surroundings were perfect, the food was very nice although it wasn’t as tasty as other place we ate in and our drinks were reasonably priced.

There were a few things that ruined the experience for me including the way the waiters pushed the wine and water so hard, and were economical with the truth when it came to the cost of the items. Whilst they did not lie, and admitted the price, the question had to be asked numerous times, which I think is wrong.

Our bill was added up incorrectly, as was that of the other English couple beside us, and both by the same amount 5YTL. We didn’t bother mentioning the mistake on our bill since the amount was so small, so we just didn’t bother leaving a tip. The couple beside us did make a fuss, and got refunded, but it did make me think how frequently this ‘error’ occurred, and how many people bothered to dispute such a small amount (after all we didn’t).

Having a scrounging, stray cat looking up at you throughout a meal is not nice and I did not appreciate it. I did manage to "shoo" a few away with a swift movement of my left leg, but I did get a few disapproving stares from other diners.

If you want a clay pot broken at the table then Sini is the only place in Dalyan to get this experience, and I would recommend it for this reason. Providing you take care with the wine and water, and double check the bill at the end of the meal, you shouldn’t have too many problems. If you like dining with manky looking cats then this is definitely the place for you, but if you don’t then you may encounter a few problems unless there are other tables of cat lovers (who will give them tit bits and get them away from you).

Whilst becoming re-acquainted with Dalyan on a stroll out we found this restaurant, which was half way down the next street from our hotel. It is clear the building is primarily a bed and breakfast, but it does have a restaurant on the roof terrace that is used by both residents and non-residents.

****Menu and Food****

Outside the building stands a small chalkboard giving (what I assumed to be a small sample) of dishes available and the prices. Naturally, I thought this was just an ‘enticer’ to get people in to the restaurant, although once sat down and presented a menu I soon discovered that all the meals detailed on the board outside comprised the whole menu.

Whilst the menu is not that vast there is something for everyone and all the ‘popular’ traditional Turkish dishes, such as meatballs, kepabs, mixed grills, meat shish and salads were available. The more ‘special’ dishes such as clay pots and the like were not available, and the reason soon became clear when we saw the kitchen. In addition to the traditional Turkish food, the restaurant also sells burgers and chips (ideal for children or those with an un-adventurous palette).

I ended up having a mixed grill, consisting of shish, meatballs and chicken, with a side salad, and my other half had a seafood grill. The food was absolutely fantastic. The meat was nicely spiced and being grilled over an outside BBQ it had a proper authentic ‘grilled’ taste about it. It was cooked to perfection.

The salad contained a lot of onion and oil but it was very tasty nonetheless. The ingredients were fresh, like they are in all restaurants in Dalyan, so this was pretty much as expected. A complimentary basket of fresh bread was provided with the meal and there was as much of this as you could eat. Once the basket was empty it was quickly replenished. I was impressed by this and this was the only restaurant we ate in whilst in Dalyan where this happened.

****Prices****

Whilst looking at the board the first thing that struck me was how cheap the meals were, compared to other places. A mixed grill for example, was 14 YTL, which is 8 YTL cheaper than most other places, which seemed a bit too good to be true.

It soon became clear why the prices on the board were so cheap as the prices stated was for the meat only. Once you add on the cost of the side salad, and everything else at a cost of 7 YTL, the price suddenly became comparable to that of other restaurants. A bit disappointing, but I guess that is to be expected.

Reviews of holidaying in Dalyan warned not to eat in places where there are no prices on the menu as these are considered to be "prime places to rip off tourists". The prices were clearly stated on the board outside but they were not on the menu, which made my other half nervous. I have to admit that when the bill came there were no increases in the price advertised on the board and everything was exactly as much as it stated on the board outside.

****Drinks****

The restaurant did not have a bar, as such, and all drinks were in a large Coke fridge just outside the kitchen door. Consequently the range of drinks was limited, but as it had Effes (the local beer), dry white wine (for the other half) and Raki (for the after meal shots) what more is needed?

The drinks were reasonably priced, just like the food, and we paid around the same as everywhere else in Dalyan, i.e. 4 YTL for a large (500ml) beer and 6YTL for a glass of white wine.

****The kitchen****

The kitchen was no more than a small room at the top of the terrace. It did not appear to be that well equipped and appeared to have a large grill (which overlooked the dining area), a small oven, a few small fridges, a sink and some small items of equipment. I was struggling to see how such a small kitchen could cope with the potential number of diners, there is enough seats for around 40 people, but given the limited menu and the fact that most of it was grilled meat and salad it was obvious that this restaurant was no more than a glorified BBQ, which I liked.

****Staff****

It is family run establishment, and a young family at that. The man of the household showed us to our seat, took our drinks order and served the drinks and cooked the main course. The salads and cold food was prepared by the lady of the manor, and she also served as our waitress whilst our main course was being cooked.

The couple’s young toddler provided the entertainment of "hide and seek" at our table whilst the parents were busy. If I was in the UK I would find a toddler at our table annoying and I would not be impressed, but on holiday it was totally different. Besides, the little girl was gorgeous and whilst she didn’t understand what we were saying the international language of the covering the eyes and then taking your hands away was well understood and brought about the most gorgeous smile and cutest giggle.

****Other diners****

We arrived at the restaurant at 7.30 p.m. and were there until 10.00 p.m., which I consider prime time for eating. Despite this we were the only two people eating at the restaurant, which surprised me somewhat. I know the season was drawing to a close (we were there during the last two weeks of August) but there were still loads of tourists around the town.

"other diners" in Dalyan restaurants doesn’t just mean other human beings since there are plenty of stray cats that frequent restaurants scrounging for tit bits from the tourists. Personally, I think animals at the dinner table is gross and I don’t even let my dog sit at my feet whilst eating, so to have stray cats is just plain wrong. Since the restaurant is on the top of the terrace, and to get to it you need to walk up three flights of stairs through the main building, there were no cats which was great.

****Background music****

One good thing about this restaurant is it has not followed in the footsteps of other restaurants in Dalyan and continues to play traditional Turkish music, which I find nice to hear while eating.

Directly opposite Caretta Caretta is a smoking bar, one where you can enjoy a communal smoke of different spirits or flavored tobaccos through a peace pipe (or whatever it is called). This bar prefers to play Bob Marley and the Wailers at very loud volumes all night, every night so the soft Turkish music of Caretta Caretta was drowned out, which was a real shame.

****Views****

Looking to the horizon you can see the mountains, which turn a stunning hazy blue/purple colour at dusk. You can also see the infamous Lycian rock tombs, which are illuminated during the hours of darkness.

Looking down from the terrace, you see the poorer and squalid side of the town and it is a bit of a reality check. It never ceases to amaze me how some parts of the town are so rich and developed, yet down the next street it looks like something out of a war zone. There are some very wealthy people and some very poor people living almost side-by-side. People from both extremes co-exist and it is something you just don’t get in the UK.

As darkness falls and the tourist town of Dalyan wakes up the views become a sea of neon lights, which is pretty impressive.

****Conclusion****

This restaurant is superb. The kitchen not be bang up to date and the décor may not be the most modern but the setting on the roof terrace, with the fantastic views, is perfect. The food is freshly prepared, well cooked and extremely tasty with that real authentic ‘grilled’ taste. The service is superb and we were well looked after, by all members of the family.

In some ways it was a shame there were no other diners at the restaurant as I find people generally create a bit of an atmosphere. In addition, it would have been interesting to see the chef at work on the grill and how this restaurant coped when it was busy. Despite my interest, I wouldn’t have wanted our visit to be any different as it was just perfect for our first night in Dalyan. The ambience, the romance and the views of the mountains was great and was only spoilt Bob Marley and the Wailers being played over and over in the bar opposite.

****White water rafting, Turkey****

The white water rafting excursion is only available from May to October as this is the safest time. It is possible to get transfers from Marmaris, Dalyan, Fethiye, Gocek and Gokova.

****What you need to take****

For this excursion you will need swimming shorts/costume, a towel and shoes that you don’t mind getting wet (you are not allowed in the raft barefoot for safety reasons. The guides allow almost any footwear in the rafts but if it is backless or liable to come off your feet then these will be tied around your ankles.

****What is provided****

Included in the cost is the transfers to and from your resort, all the necessary equipment (life jacket, paddle and safety helmet), a professional guide, insurance and lunch.

****The excursion****

The format of the excursion is as follows:

i) Transfers from the hotel to the white water rafting base at the bottom of the mountains and at the end of the white water rafting course.

ii) A meet and greet session with the guides and other fellow rafters. This session includes a briefing, signing all the necessary paperwork and distributing all the rafting equipment.

iii) Boarding a minibus and being driven up the mountains to the start of the white water rafting course. Being split in to groups, allocated to rafts and a further briefing.

iv) Rafting down the River.

v) Boarding the minibus and being driven back to the white water rafting base.

vi) Lunch followed by watching some footage of your trip and the opportunity to buy a DVD and some photographs.

vii) Transfer back to your hotel.

****Price****

The cost is £35 and considering all transport is provided, lunch is provided and all in all the whole excursion lasts around 7 hours it represents excellent value for money.

****My experience****

I booked our excursion through Kaunos Tours, which is very close to the rafting base. Being first at the base meant we had to wait for other tourists that were travelling from the other resorts, but it gave us a chance to meet the guides and ask loads of questions. The base is definitely geared up for tourism and there are plenty of seats and tables, refreshments, toilets and showers. The base is not luxurious but then it doesn’t need to be.

With so many nationalities I was wondering how the briefing was going to work. The guides, being multilingual, spoke to each nationality in their native tongue, which I thought was very impressive.

After the briefing it was time for the drive up the mountains to the start of the white water rafting course. The journey took just over two hours, and I have to confess that it was probably the longest two hours of my life. I wasn’t bored, it was impossible to be bored looking at the stunning scenery, beautiful backdrops and quaint villages on the way to the river. There was an air of excitement on the bus, but it was also very tense and it was clear everyone had some doubts and fears about what lay ahead of us, but I guess these feelings are all part of the overall experience.

Once at the river we were divided in to two groups, one for each raft. I was quite relieved when I saw our group consisting of another English couple, a young Dutch couple (who spoke and understood English so well that they could have been Brits), a single Turkish girl and of course, our guide.

A brief health and safety talk followed, i.e. what actions to take, when to paddle, when not to paddle, when to get the paddles in the raft, when to duck, pulling someone back in the raft, and what to do if (although that should definitely have been when) we were tossed out of the raft etc. Safety-talk over, it was time to grab a paddle, put on a life jacket and don a safety helmet.

Once in the raft and on the river I must say that I was quite disappointed. I was expecting white torrents and the raft being tossed about all over the place but in reality, it was a lot more subdued. The river was in full flow and we were knocking along at quite a rate but there was no white water. The scenery was breath taking and we passed through a small caverns and then wallop. The guide screamed paddle so we all frantically paddled towards a bend in the river. There was a distinct increase in noise, the river got faster, the grassy banks turned to cliff faces and all of a sudden there were whirlpools and fierce torrents. The raft violently rocked and darted about all over the place colliding with rocks as it did so. In the raft we were thrown around like rag-dolls, banging in to each other but there was nothing we could do except for hang on and enjoy the ride and what a ride it was. This is where the adrenaline really kicked in and I have to say that this trip was the most exciting thing I had ever done in my life. As soon as the white water appeared, it disappeared and the river became more sedate and gentle.

I was expecting the whole trip to be through rapids, but I was wrong, and I am glad I was as two and a half hours in rapids would not only be exhausting but also very stressful. There are times where the water is slower and the raft just floats along allowing you to enjoy the breath taking scenery and have a bit of banter with the rest of your group. These breaks also give you the chance to get over the last set of rapids and prepare for the next set. All in all, the excursion is 12 km in length and there are no less than 12 sets of rapids to get through.

Photography is all sorted out for you as two other guides disappear off ahead of the raft and stop at strategic parts of the course and take photos for you to buy at the end of the tour. In addition to stills they also take some video footage, most of which is during the most ferocious rapids. I was a bit sceptical about the quality but these guys are true professionals and the pictures and video footage are fantastic. The stills are loaded on a CD and there are over 200 photos, most of which are your raft but there are some of all other rafters as they are getting in to the rafting gear and walking to the minibus. The DVD contains various backing dance/trance tracks, which works very well. If you don’t have enough cash to buy the pictures and/or DVD at the base then the tour operators will leave a copy at your hotel so you can pay for it later.

At the very least you need the photographs since it is an amazing experience that is indescribable in words and unless they have been through the experience themselves, most people just won’t believe how extreme this excursion can be and to get the full impact you need to see the DVD. In the raft I never appreciated what the guides did or how fit, strong, skilled and agile they are in making the raft go where they want it to and keeping the rafters safe. The DVD clearly show this and there are times when the rafters are ducking down with the paddles in, as instructed by the guide, and the guide is hanging over the back of the raft with his paddle stuck in between two rocks to keep the raft from capsizing. It is awesome to watch.

The short trip back to the base provides a chance to recover from the river before you are given a traditional Turkish lunch. The lunch was plentiful and delicious and there is always the opportunity to go up for more.

****Conclusion****

White water rafting is something that I think everyone should do at least once during their lifetime. It gets the stomach doing somersaults, the palms sweaty, the heart pounding and the adrenaline pumping through your veins. From the anticipation on the drive to the top of the mountains, to the exhilaration in the raft, to the feeling of relief when you finally get back on terra firma it is a roller coaster of a ride that is simply awesome.

This particular excursion was fantastic in every respect. The guides were knowledgeable, approachable, skilled and knew what they were doing and I felt very safe at all times with them. Everything was provided and all rafters are adequately briefed prior to setting off. The photography service is spot on and ensures that all the action is captured for your perfect holiday memento. The lunch is plentiful and delicious and all this for a meagre £35. What more could you ask for?

The Metin Hotel is a small, and friendly, family run hotel in Dalyan, Turkey. The hotel is rated as a 3 star and consists of 25 standard rooms, 19 triple rooms, 3 family rooms and 5 self-catering apartments. The hotel offers bed and breakfast or half board basis, but not all-inclusive packages.

Prices vary greatly and depend upon what room you want, whether you are bed and breakfast or half board and the time of year. Current prices, and details about the Metin can be found on their website. One thing I would stress is that the prices are very reasonable compared to other 3 star hotels in the area and the Metin offers fantastic value for money.

****Location****

Since the Metin is right in the center of town e verything is well within walking distance so everything you need is at your finger-tips, making it ideal. There are plenty of restaurants, bars and cafes close by for evening meals and there are late opening gift shops and the like.

A five minute walk away is the river where you can look at the Lycian rock tombs or just sit and watch the world go by.

The location of the Metin Hotel is perfect and with everything so close to hand Taxis are not needed, unless you wish to venture out to other towns, but with so much to do and see in Dalyan there really is no need.

****Reception****

The reception is clean, light and fresh looking. The desk is manned 24 hours a day so there is always someone to offer help and assistance as required. The day-time receptionist is fantastic. She is friendly, helpful, accommodating and speaks fluent English.

During the twilight hours, reception is manned by one of the owner’s sons, who only speaks a little broken English. Whilst he does his best, there are things that he just doesn’t seem to understand (which is acceptable) so there are times when the guests will be asked to return in the morning when the regular receptionist is in.

****The rooms****

The rooms are basic but are more than adequate and represent great value for money. The exact room will obviously depend on what you book, but with double, twin and single rooms available there is something for everyone. All rooms are equipped with a fully stocked fridge, air conditioning and a balcony or veranda regardless of what option you take.

Other furnishings in the room were minimal, which is pretty much standard in my experience, and included a large double wardrobe with plenty of hanging space and additional drawers, a side table with a chair and vanity mirror and two bed side tables. The room was light, airy and very clean, the bathroom was a good size and contained a mirror, a western style toilet and shower. Everything was clean and in full working order so we had no complaints about the room whatsoever.

A safe could be hired for 2.5 YTL per day.

****Room cleanliness****

On a daily basis the beds were always made and the bins were always emptied. The whole room was obviously cleaned during our stay, and the bedding and towels changed but it is not possible to comment on the frequency.

One thing I did notice is that the maids left everything that was out alone. All toiletries in the bathroom were in exactly the same place as we had left them and they were never touched. Any clothing, shoes, books or other items that were left in a heap on the floor or on the vanity table etc. were also left alone, which was great

****The pool****

The hotel offers a large circular pool that is open from daylight until the evening meal is served. The water is clear and clean (just like a pool should be) and it is not too chlorinated. It is not particularly deep (the shallowest part is 1.5m and it goes to around 2.0m at its deepest) but it is more than enough to swim in. It is also deep enough to jump or shallow dive in to.

Beside the main pool are two children’s pools designed to let young ones splash about. They are not big enough, or deep enough to learn to swim in.

You hear of many horror stories about the state of hotel pools and the effects the water has on guest’s ears, eyes and skin. I can honestly say that we never had any problems whatsoever.

The main pool area is kept very clean and is washed down daily. In addition the atmosphere around the pool was great and it was very welcoming.

****The bar area****

To the side of the pool is the small hotel bar. Being in the same area as the pool there is a great atmosphere in the bar area, which gets even better at night once everyone vacates the pool. During the evenings, the sprinkler fountain in the pool is turned on and it leads to a very tranquil and peaceful setting with soft music playing in the background. The bar opens at 11.00 a.m. and closes when the last drinkers are finished, whatever that time may be.

****Breakfast****

Breakfast is served from 8.00 a.m. until 10.00 a.m. and is available from the sun terrace unless it is raining, in which case it is held inside. The sun terrace provides some breath taking views, which is great whilst eating.

The breakfast menu is the same every morning and consists of the typical continental style buffet of tomatoes, hard boiled eggs, cheese, ham, olives, bread, yogurt, jams and preserves, cornflakes and the like. There is a small kitchen that cooks up fried eggs and omelettes but these are an additional cost. Drinks consist of tea and squash, but no coffee.

****Evening meals****

The evening meal is served from 8.00 p.m. and all tables are laid al fresco in the pool/bar area providing it is dry. During wet weather, the evening meal is inside.

The evening meal is always of a buffet style and consists of traditional Turkish food, including meze, main course and desert. Like all food served around Dalyan it is made from fresh ingredients and tastes divine. Meals include things like meatballs, kofte, chicken/lamb/beef stew and casseroles, pasta, salads, peppers, tomatoes etc. The food plentiful and you have the opportunity to go up again and again. The evening meal typically costs around 20 YTL, which is on par with other restaurants in Dalyan.

Once a week there is a pool-side BBQ. The cost of this is 30 YTL per person, but given both the variety and quantity of meats available, as well as salads etc. this is excellent value and you can really fill your boots. I can’t recommend the BBQ night highly enough.

****Excursions****

The hotel runs many excursions for its guests. The family have 4 boats between them and these are used to run a variety of trips including early morning turtle watching, a trip across Lake Koycegiz to the market, crabbing trips, fishing trips
and a BBQ on the bank of Lake Koycegiz.

The price of the trips varies depending upon the specific trip. Many other tour operators offer the same trips (obviously on a different boat) and the price the Metin charges is comparable to these, as expected. One advantage of going with the Metin is that you won’t miss the trip or the tour operator won’t turn, hence it offers piece of mind.

If you want to hire one of the boats it costs 150 YTL for four hours, and the captain. Once you’ve hired the boat it is entirely up to your party to decide where you want to go and what you want to do and there is loads to chose from.

****Booking****

The Metin can be booked online, through their website, and whilst the hotel will offer a transfer service from and to the airport, the easiest way to book a holiday is to do it all as a package deal through Manos, a part of Thomas Cook.

****Conclusion****

Overall the Metin is a great place to stay. It is clean, well maintained, quiet, and offers everything you need for the perfect holiday. The staff are friendly, welcoming and very accommodating.

It is a family friendly hotel and, as such seems to attract a quieter clientele. Don’t get me wrong, these people like a drink, like to socialize and like to listen to the music played at the bar but also those that like a bit of sleep as well. It definitely is not a club 18 – 30 style resort.

The best thing about the Metin is the location and the extremely friendly atmosphere around the place. It is a great place to kick back, chill out and relax.