Wangderful

The first palace I saw was the Louvre in Paris. Modified to give homage to an unnamed pharaoh, it didn’t impress me much; it looked like the other old houses in the area, just bigger and with a tiny glass pyramid.

The first look at Bangkok’s Grand Palace was magic. I regretted the surrounding white wall; it spoiled the look of Paradise. If Eden wasn’t here, this was for sure one of the most serious candidates. Instead of European forceful, dogmatic lines, graceful stuppas approached the skies asymptotically.

Larger than Life

Even from Sanam Luang – the large open space in front of the palace that serves for special ceremonies – the Grand Palace looks larger than life. Consecrated in 1782 – when the kingdom’s capital was moved here from Thonburi on the other bank of the Chao Phraya River - the complex includes over a hundred palaces and temples, much more than the visitor can expect to see in one visit.

Layout

Most travelers pay little attention to studying a place before visiting it. Yet, having at least a vague idea of the Grand Palace layout is imperative for enjoying the visit. The palace follows the outline of Ayutthaya palaces, which was designed according to places appearing in the Ramayana epic. As such, it is also an open encyclopedia on Thai history and mythology.

Despite the size of this rectangular complex, there is only one entry open to the public: a narrow gate facing Sanam Luang. Beyond it, only about half the complex is open to the public. The Emerald Buddha Temple is to the left, while the Museum of the Emerald Buddha Temple is at the right; among other items, it displays the Emerald Buddha costumes.

Ahead of the visitor and beyond the Emerald Buddha Temple area is Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wong (Grand Palace), which includes four main buildings. At the center is the imposing Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall, the largest of buildings with three wings and floors.

To its left is Phra Maha Montien and to its right the Dusit Hall. Borom Phiman Hall is a French-styled structure built by King Rama V for Crown Prince Vajiravudh as his residence. It is located after the Emerald Buddha Temple and left of Phra Maha Montien. It is now used to accommodate visiting foreign heads of state and is closed to the public.

This area was formerly the Open Court, where the king ran the state affairs; beyond it was the Inner Court which had a residential role and is closed to the public.

Royal Strategy

The best approach for the visit is to begin early with the Emerald Buddha Temple since this area gets crowded early. The exit from this temple brings the visitor directly into the Central Court, which is best explored from east to west. The first building is the newest, the very European styled Phra Thinang Boromphiman, next is the oldest building in the palace, the Phra Maha Monthien compound. Then, at the very center of the complex is the Chakri Maha Prasat Hall. West of it is the Dusit Maha Prasat group. Facing the last is a building housing the Museum of the Emerald Buddha Temple, which leads the visitor back to the main gate of the Grand Palace. Note that the throne halls are open only during weekdays and only where aren’t any ceremonies taking place.

Wat Phra Kaew - Temple of the Emerald Buddha

Wat Phra Kaeo is a wonderful temple adorned with Thai orange-and-green roof tiles, mosaic-encrusted pillars and rich marble pediments. It is the most important religious temple in the kingdom, since it contains the Emerald Buddha – the power talisman of the current dynasty. Built in 1782, this is the only temple in the complex without resident monks; it serves exclusively as the royal chapel. The king performs there a number of religious ceremonies including the ritual changing of the image's jewel-encrusted regalia at the beginning of each of the three local seasons.

The statue is kept on the temple’s center atop an enormous pedestal and surrounded by murals of the Ramakian – the Thai version of the Hindu Ramayana. The small image was carved from a single block of fine jade. Hordes of worshippers block the way to it, hence the main sight in the temple are the numerous sculptures of the Thai mythology, including fierce-looking giants guarding the gates, six pairs of Cambodian-style bronze lions and stone figures from China.

The Royal Pantheon is also part of the temple. It houses the statues of the deceased Chakri kings; unluckily, it is open to the public only during the Chakri Day, i.e. April 6.

An important attraction for those planning to visit Cambodia is a scaled down model of Angkor Wat on an open space between the temples. In Cambodia there is nothing similar to this very realistic model; studying it is a wonderful preparation for a visit at the real site.

Phra Maha Montien

The Phra Maha Monthien compound includes the Phra Thinang Paisan Thaksin where the coronations take place and is the oldest part of the Grand Palace. Here – at the Octagonal Throne - the King receives the invitation from representatives of the people to rule over the kingdom. Near is the Phatthrabit Throne, from which the king receives the Royal Regalia, the Royal Utensils, and the Royal Weapons of Sovereignty.

Next to it, the Phra Thinang Amarinthara Winitchai audience hall is used for the grand audience on the king’s birthday and for royal religious ceremonies throughout the year.

Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall

This is the largest structure in the complex; it was built in 1882 – during the reign of Rama V - by a British architect and blends Italian Renaissance with Thai lines. The palace was built on the place that king was born: the palace of his mother was placed there.

That doesn’t mean the British designed the marvelous mondops. The structure was designed to be completely westernized with a handsome dome atop it. However, the court claimed Siamese motifs should be part of it; thus each wing is topped by a mondop an ornamented spire a Thai adaptation of the Hindu mandapa. These are more than ornaments, the mondop in the center contains the ashes of Chakri kings, at the flanks are the ashes of former princes. The result is awesome; few visitors would forget their first sight of it.

The building’s base displays a collection of ancient weapons; this can be enjoyed only during weekdays. On weekends the exhibit inside is closed, though a few items are in display outside.

Above the iron and glass doors of the palace main entrance is the emblem of the Chakri dynasty, a three-bladed sword with its handle passing through a chakra wheel.

Nowadays it is the place of royal events and receptions.

Dusit Maha Prasat Hall

West of the last is the Dusit Hall, built by Rama I and originally used for royal audiences, the hall is topped by a four-tiered roof and a nine-tiered spire. Later it became a funerary hall and the place where people receive decorations from the king.

The annual Buddhist and Brahmin coronation day anniversary rites take place here. Also known as the Royal Funerary Hall, this is the place where the remains of kings, queens, and senior members of the Royal Family await their cremation on the nearby Sanam Luang.

On one side of this hall, Rama IV built the Aphornphimok Pavilion, which was used for the king mounting and dismounting of elephants. It is considered as one of the Thai architectural heights.

Practicalities

The palace compound charges an admission fee from foreigners only. The ticket includes visits to Wat Phra Kaeo, to the Grand Palace Compound, to the adjacent Royal Thai Decorations and Coins Pavilion and to the Vimanmek Mansion and Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall on Ratchawithi Road (to be used within seven days from the visit to the Grand Palace).

Proper dress is required; women visitors must wear long pants or long skirts and men in short pants are not allowed to enter. Next to the entry there is a booth that provides proper clothes in exchange for one’s passport or credit card as security. Guided tours in English are available at 10 AM, 10:30 AM, 1:30 PM and 2 PM; audio guides can be rented as well. Photography within the main temples is forbidden. The palace is open daily, between 8:30 AM and 3:30 PM.

Giving transport recommendations is almost superfluous since this is the very center of the metropolis. Yet, the Skytrain and Metro do not reach the palace. Taxis and buses are available from everywhere in town, yet an especially attractive option is taking the Chao Phraya Express Boat to the Tha Chang Pier.

What is Dusit?

When King Rama V returned from his visit to Europe in 1897, he moved the royal palace, the throne hall and the royal family palaces from the Rattanakosin Grand Palace to Dusit.

If arriving from Ratchadamnoen Road, beyond the 9 Gems Gate the visitor sees a huge plaza featuring a large statue of King Rama V on a horse. Behind it is the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall. Out of sight and northwest of there are the Vimanmek Mansion and the Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall.

This order is a good one for a visit. If beginning early, the day can be end at the Dusit Zoo – just east of the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall.

However, this is a shortlist. The complex includes 16 halls presently available to visit and another four that are closed to the public. Those with a deep interest in Thailand at the beginning of the 20th Century would probably spend a few days exploring this huge museum.

East of the sites described here is the Chitlada Palace, the king's formal residence. The palace is beyond a moat and a wall, and is not open to the public.

Reaching Dusit

Seldom is the arrival direction relevant to our experience of an attraction. That’s not so in Royal Bangkok. The Dusit Palaces are best seen if arriving from the Grand Palace along Ratchadamnoen Road. This can be accomplished by foot, taxi or tuk-tuk; I recommend beginning early in the morning and walking through this easy, but glorious path.

Despite the Western style of parts of it, Ratchadamnoen Road is intrinsically Thai. Few Westerners would recognize it as a single conceptual unit since it is technically divided into three parts, namely Ratchadamnoen Nok (outer), Ratchadamnoen Klang (middle), and Ratchadamnoen Nai (inner). The last starts from the Grand Palace and lies along Sanam Luang. Ratchadamnoen Klang starts from Sanam Luang and reaches the Golden Mount. Ratchadamnoen Nok connects the Golden Mount with the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall and the Dusit area.

The road symbolizes the transition from the old Siamese absolute monarchy area of the Grand Palace to the new Thai modern constitutional monarchy at the Dusit Palace. The symbol has also architectural representation; the Grand Palace is traditional Thai in style, while the parts near the Dusit Palace were built mainly in European style.

Vimanmek Mansion

In 1900 the King had the Munthaturattanaroj Residence – his Summer Palace in Chuthathujrachathan at Koh Sri Chang, Chonburi – dismantled and rebuilt in the Dusit Garden, after that the structure became known as the Vimanmek Mansion; it was inaugurated in Bangkok on 1901. Certain Thai consonant is usually transliterated as "v" despite its sound being "w;" thus the correct pronunciation of the mansion’s name is "Wimanmek;" it means "celestial mansion."

The three-storey royal mansion has 81 rooms built in 19th Century European style. The building has two right-angled wings, sixty meters long each. At their meeting point is the four-storied, octagonal structure where the king lived. The widest point is 35 meters long, while the building’s height is 28 meters; all the teakwood parts were connected without nails. Nowadays it includes 31 exhibition rooms. Items related to the Thai culture of the time are in display in them.

Other buildings in the same compound include an exhibition of H.M. King Bhumibol’s photography, H.M. Queen Sirikit’s collection of handicraft masterpieces created by rural people, the Paraphernalia of Rank and Portraits Museum, the Old Clocks Museum, Royal Carriages, the Royal Ceremonial Photographic Museum, the Suan Si Ruedo Residential Hall Museum, the Suan Bua Residential Hall Museum, the Ancient Cloth and Silk and others.

Most of the structures hosting these institutions have a long history, dating back to King Rama V decision to allocate plots of land for the construction of residences for his consort, princesses, and other wives.

The mansion has been transformed into a museum dedicated to King Rama V. It is open daily from 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM, including weekends and public holidays; the ticketing and guided tours stop roughly an hour before closure. Proper attire is observed (sarongs, pants and shirts can be rented), shoes must be left by the entrance at a special place, and cameras must be submitted to the guards by the entrance (they are kept in lockers for a small fee). The entrance to the mansion is exclusively as part of a guided tour (given also in English and included in the admission fee). Moreover, the site serves official functions, so despite it being open every day, it may close unexpectedly due to an official ceremony. A point to keep in mind are the two traditional Thai dancing shows taking place daily at 10:30 AM and 2 PM.

Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall

This palace was built between 1907 and 1915 in Italian Renaissance style; cherubim adorn its gates. It is hard to find any Thai touches in the whole structure. After the 1932 coup which ended the absolute monarchy, it housed the Thai parliament. After a new parliament was constructed nearby, this building has been kept for royal and important state ceremonies.

The palace can be visited after buying tickets at an office awkwardly placed behind it (so that the view of the palace from the plaza would not be obstructed). The throne hall is constructed of Italian Carrara marble and is almost fifty meters wide, over 110 meters long and almost fifty meters high. The large central dome is surrounded by six smaller ones; in their interior, murals depict the Chakri Dynasty history. The building is open to visitors daily from 9:30 AM to 3:15 PM.

Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall

Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall is east of Vimanmek Mansion and facing the Elephant Museum and Local Textile Exhibition Hall. This single story building is an awesome example of Thai architecture, featuring carved floral motifs on panels adorning the gables and eaves and a mix of Victorian lines with Moorish porticoes.

The throne hall became in 1993 a center for the SUPPORT Foundation, which attempts to preserve traditional Thai art and handicraft and to assist rural people in marketing their traditional products. Its main hall contains Thai handicrafts, though the throne still stands at the far end under an elaborate high ceiling. The collection includes silverware with complex Thai designs as well as Krueng Thom. The last is a form of art where thin sheets of silver coated with gold are cut, bent, twisted and then molded into various shapes, following that, designs are engraved on the surface and filled with a black amalgam. Additional items include Khram floral designs, where fine pieces of gold and silver are beaten and stamped onto boxes or vases. Precious stones necklaces and brooches presented by northern hill tribes to the king during his visits to their villages are also in display.

Another room displays Thai silk in its different styles and textures, traditional northern hill tribe embroidery and vine-woven baskets. Carvings from soap and wood and Talung buffalo hides puppets used in a shadow drama from Southern Thailand are also shown.

Chang Ton - Royal Elephant Museum

Near the U-Thong Nai entrance of the Dusit compound, at the exit of the Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall, is the Royal Elephant Museum. Elephants are an important part of the Thai culture, having been used as war machines and working force. White elephants are considered as auspicious and presented to the king.

In the past, the museum grounds were the royal stable; nowadays, the living items are kept at the nearby Chitlada Palace. The museum includes two structures which display exhibits – tusks, skins and items produced with them – as well as displays explaining the history of elephants and white elephants, the methods of capturing them, various rituals and Thai beliefs relating to them.

Dusit Zoo

Dusit Zoo was created in 1938 on a premium location donated by the king; before that it was the Royal Private Garden within the Dusit Royal Garden of King Rama V. King Rama VIII donated the garden to as a public zoo. Nowadays it is one of the largest zoos in Southeast Asia, and one of the most pleasant green spaces in the metropolis.

Bangkok features three large royal palaces ("wang" in Thai): Rattanakosin, Dusit and Chitlada. The first two are open to the public, while the last is the royal residence. Yet, that’s not all.

Along time, Thai royalty has played a decisive role in the development of Bangkok. Many of the city streets and avenues were designed by the early kings of the Chakri Dynasty. Rattanakosin Island was designed similarly to allow defending the – back then – young city. In order to build palaces, areas were developed and adapted to urban needs. Administrative and commercial buildings appeared nearby. When the palaces grew old, sometimes they were given to the public. For example, the Bank of Thailand occupies what were the Bang Khun Phrom and Tewawes palaces. Many modern administrative buildings were former palaces. The Ministry of Education – located not far from Khaosan Road – was the Chankasem Palace. The Suan Dusit Rajabhat University used to be the Sunantalai Palace. This is a very partial list.

To another category belong modern buildings built on the grounds of former palaces. Few travelers would realize that while walking along the shiny interior of CentralWorld (the second largest shopping mall in the world) they are walking on royal grounds, where the Phetchabun Palace stood in the past. 36 thousand properties in the city belong to the Crown Property Bureau, and many of them are main landmarks, as CentralWorld and Siam Paragon are.

The last was also built on the site of a former palace. During the reign of King Mongkut in the mid-nineteenth century, a royal recreation palace was built on the actual site of the luxurious Siam Paragon. It was named Sra Pathum Wan (Lotus Pond Palace). In 1964 the palace was demolished and the Siam Intercontinental Bangkok was constructed on the site. Finally, the hotel was replaced by the lavish mega-mall were shiny Lamborghini and Porsche cars patiently wait for buyers.

Yet, more palaces exist and can be visited.

Thonburi Palace - Wang Derm Palace

In 1767, a general and provincial governor named Taksin (the name means Sin of Tak) freed most of Siam after the Burmese sacked Ayutthaya. He established the new capital in Thonburi, on the western bank of the Chao Phraya River.

One year later, a new palace was built. The Wang Derm Palace served as the residence of King Taksin until his death in 1782. King Rama I used it until the new palace across the river – now known as Bangkok’s Grand Palace – was finished.

Built mainly in Chinese style, the complex includes several structures. King Pinklao – which held the title of Second King between 1851 and 1866 – lived here for a while in the first Western style royal residence in Thailand. The site was recognized by UNESCO as a cultural heritage site. Since 1905, the palace is within a Royal Navy dock.

Another important structure within the palace was the Wichaiprasit Fort. In the past there was a twin fort across the river. Both forts were connected with an underwater metal chain that allowed blocking the waterway to unauthorized ships. The Throne Hall was built in Ayutthaya style and shaped like a "T," similar in many aspects to Wang Na (the Front Palace in Bangkok, former residence to the Apparent Heir and now the National Museum). Other structures of interest include King Taksin's Shrine, King Pinklao's residence, the Whale Head Shrine and various Chinese styled buildings.

The palace is located on Wang Doem Road, next to Wat Arun – which back then was part of the palace complex - and is open from Monday to Friday between 8:30 AM and 4 PM. Unluckily, it is open only for groups organized through a travel agent since a special permit must be obtained.

Suan Pakkad Palace

Located on Si Ayutthaya Road, not far from the Victory Monument and near the Phaya Thai Skytrain Station is the Suan Pakkad Palace. The name means "Cabbage Garden" and it refers to the original use of the ground below the palace.

It belonged to Prince Chumbhot Paribatra of Nagara Svarga, a grandson of King Rama V who decided in 1952 to turn it into a museum. Beyond the central palace, there are eight traditional Thai houses which were brought here from several locations. Each features a different style and originally serving different purposes, including royal residences. The buildings surround a Japanese-styled garden feel in a semi-circle; with old statues in between them. Beyond the architectural display, the museum contains artifacts and works of art belonging to several periods of Thai culture, including a royal barge.

The most distinctive structure is the Lacquer Pavilion, which was brought from a monastery south of Ayutthaya on the Chao Phraya River. Over 200 years old, it consists of a "room within a room," with a narrow corridor separating the walls of both rooms. The walls are decorated in richly carved gilded wood, while the interior of the inner room is decorated entirely in gold and black lacquer.

Open daily from 9 AM to 4 PM.

Wang Na

Such an entry wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Wang Na – the Front Palace or the palace of the Second King – which is better known as the National Museum. It is located near the Grand palace, between Thammasat University and the National Theatre, and opposite Sanam Luang.

King Rama V opened in 1874 the first public museum. Later, it was moved to its actual location at Wang Na. In 1926 it was named the "Bangkok Museum" and subsequently developed into the National Museum Bangkok. Nowadays it is the main branch of Thailand’s National Museums, featuring exhibits of Thai art and history.

The museum displays three permanent exhibitions: the Thai History Gallery, the Archaeological and Art History Collections, and the Decorative Arts and Ethnological Collection.

Other exhibits include the Royal Funeral Chariots built for Royal cremation ceremonies, the Buddhaisawan Chapel, the Issares Rajanusorn, a restored private residence of King Pinklao, King Rama IV's brother and the abovementioned Second King, and several minor pavilions which were once used for ceremonial occasions.

The museum is open daily between 9 AM and 4 PM.

For anyone having briefly visited Bangkok, the topic of this entry may seem unusual and misplaced. Churches in a country where probably – and allegedly – are more Buddha images than inhabitants? Yet, reality is sometimes wilder than imagination…

Christianity in Thailand

The Catholic Church in Thailand has a long history. During the 16th century, Portuguese and Dutch traders created commercial contacts with Siam. In 1516, Portugal signed a treaty with Thailand to supply firearms and munitions.

After a few failures to introduce Christianity, several Portuguese ships landed in Siam in 1553, and three hundred soldiers entered the service of the Siamese king by his request. Next year two Dominicans joined the soldiers as chaplains and established three parishes at Ayutthaya with some fifteen hundred converted Siamese. However, persecutions and murders stopped Christianity’s advance. In 1567, Portuguese friars established the Catholic Church in Ayutthaya.

In 1662, Siam was made a Vicariate Apostolic by Pope Alexander VII and soon after the kingdom gave shelter to several hundred Annamite and Japanese Christians who had been persecuted in their countries.

After the Dutch forced on Siam a treaty granting them extraterritorial rights, King Narai turned to France in 1664 for assistance. The last constructed fortifications, built a new palace at Lopburi, and engaged in education and medicine. Moreover, they brought the first printing press into the country. Reports were brought to King Louis XIV claiming that King Narai may convert to Christianity.

On 10 December 1685, King Narai signed a treaty with France, allowing Catholic missionaries to preach the Gospel, exempted Siamese Catholics from work on Sunday, and appointed a special mandarin to settle disputes between Christians and others. However, when King Narai was dying, General Phetracha killed the designated heir, as well as Phaulkon - a Christian Greek that recommended to King Narai to bring the French – and a number of missionaries. The designated heir had been Christian, and thus the Kingdom of Siam remained mainly Buddhist.

Phetracha became the new king (1688-93), expelled the remaining foreigners and a long period of Siamese isolation from the world began. Siamese Christians experienced a long period of persecutions during the 18th century, despite a favorable attitude towards them by the Siamese kings of the period.

Only in the 19th century, the missions entered a new flourishing period. Napoleon III renewed the French alliance with Siam, and in 1856 King Mongkut signed a political-commercial treaty with France, by which the privileges granted to the Catholics missionaries by King Narai were renewed.

Nowadays, several churches exist in Bangkok.

Holy Rosary Church

The Holy Rosary Church is known also as Kalawar Church; the last is the closest possible pronunciation of Calvary in Thai. Located at the very southeastern corner of Rattanakosin Island – along the west side of the third canal and next to the Chao Phraya River, the Holy Rosary Church is just south of Chinatown and near the River City Complex. Bangkok’s General Post Office is nearby, across the canal.

Maybe not the most important church in the city, the Holy Rosary Church is certainly the most beautiful. The modern structure dates back to the end of the 19th century, when the original structure – built in 1768 – was replaced. This narrow structure was built in gothic style and features an attractively yellow facade. A large statue of the Virgin Mary was placed just below the very impressive central tower. Impressive colored glass windows depicting Biblical scenes add yet another touch of beauty to the structure.

Christ Church

The Anglican Church arrived at Bangkok during the nineteenth century; King Rama IV granted them land for a church on Charoen Krung Road. Later, King Rama V gave them permission to move closer to downtown, where the church can be visited today at 11 Convent Road, Sathorn.

The structure reminds of a simplified castle of gothic lines; colored glass windows depict scenes from the Via Crucis.

Assumption Cathedral

The Assumption Cathedral is located on 23 Oriental Lane, Charoenkrung Road, not far from the Oriental Hotel. The cathedral is the main Roman Catholic temple in town and the seat of the Archdiocese of Bangkok, which dates back to 1662. The building seen today was built between 1910 and 1918.

The red bricks and white stones facade features two square towers and arch shaped windows. Its interior was designed in classic Romanesque and beyond Biblical scenes on colored glass it features also murals on the nave’s walls.

Santa Cruz Cathedral

Located on 112, Tesaban 1 Road, near the Memorial Bridge, Wat Prayoon and Wat Kalayanamit and at walking distance from Wat Arun, this cathedral enjoys a key spot in Thonburi and is not far away from several central areas of Bangkok.

After the destruction of Ayutthaya in 1767, King Taksin moved his capital to Thonburi, on the western bank of the Chao Phraya River. Portuguese military support, including the supply of cannon and muskets, contributed significantly to King Taksin's army success to drive the Burmese out of the kingdom.

In recognition, King Taksin granted the Portuguese a plot of land to build a wooden church in an area called Kudi Jeen within Thonburi. Descendants of the early Portuguese traders built the first Santa Cruz Church in 1770 on that plot; thus, the church is sometimes called Wat Kudi Jeen.

As often happens with foreign structures in Thailand, the cathedral has two names. In Thai is known as "Wat Kudi Jiin," after the name given to the Portuguese settlers: "Farang Kudi Jiin" means "Westerners at the Chinese shrine." The strange name is explained by the fact that King Taksin dictated that the Chinese group who migrated from Ayutthaya settle down around the area of Wat Kalayanamit while the Portuguese people would settle nearby along the bank of the Chao Phraya River. The other name, "Santa Cruz" is Portuguese and means "Holy Cross."

The church was constructed several times; the main such events took place in 1816 and in 1913. The last was work of two renowned Italian architects Annibale Rigotti and Mario Tamagno. As a consequence of that, it displays an Italian style rather than a Portuguese one. The rectangular belfry is decorated with stucco and contains dozens of bells. There are 14 sculptures depicting scenes from Jesus' life, and the walls are decorated with stained glass biblical images.

The Santa Cruz Pier on the Chao Phraya River gives access to the inner courtyard, where a crucifix is in one corner and a statue of the Virgin Mary is within a garden in the other corner. The church structure is of light colour with reddish corners and is topped by a domed belfry. Stained glass windows featuring with biblical images decorate the sidewalls. Related sites and structures are a little cemetery and the convent, which hosts a school.

As in Macau, the Portuguese heritage here is not very obvious, at the time of my visit, banners with Bible verses were displayed on the outer walls of the temple. To my surprise, they were bilingual in Thai and English, not a word of Portuguese could be spotted in the site.

Lutheran Church

On a soi (alley) splitting from Sukhumvit’s Soi 50, is Bangkok’s Lutheran Church. Smaller than the other churches reviewed here it imparts a very homelike and welcoming feeling. The small, single storey temple features large colored glass windows that create a very pleasing illumination. Visitors get Thai Bible and can enjoy the opportunity to hear a sermon in that beautiful language.

On Three Temples

Trapped between Khlong Bangkok Yai and the Memorial Bridge over the Chao Phraya River, are three of the most beautiful temples in Bangkok. I wrote in the past about the Santa Cruz Cathedral and the recently restored Wat Payoom. Santa Cruz is one of the main churches in the city, allowing insights into interesting parts of the Thai history. Wat Prayoom features an awesome, sparkling white Ayutthaya style chedi. Northwest of them is Wat Kanlayanmit, one of the best known and most prominent Thai temples along the Chao Phraya riverside.

Reaching Wat Kalayanamit

The temple can be reached through the Chao Phraya River Express Boat. The Memorial Bridge Pier is on the correct riverside, but from the Rajinee Pier is a cross-river ferry stopping next to the temple. If arriving by foot and crossing the Memorial Bridge, the awesome views of Wat Kalayanamit and the surrounding temples await the walker.

Until recently, the Skytrain or the Metro did not reach this area; using buses was cumbersome, while taxis and tuk-tuks were unreasonably expensive. In May 2009 the first extension of the Skytrain across the Chao Phraya River was inaugurated. Two new stations were built as part of the Skytrain Silom Line. The first one is called Krung Thonburi while the other is Wong Wian Yai. Wat Kalayanamit is at walking distance from the Krung Thonburi Station. The trains operate between 6 AM and midnight.

On Time and Space

This is a Royal Temple of the Second Class. Despite those being quite rare in the country, Wat Kalayanamit is just one more magnificent temple in Bangkok since many of the temples classified as second, first or special classes are located here. Yet, its colossal size, classical lines and attractive location invite for a visit.

Built during the first half of the nineteenth century, the temple was named after Chao Phraya Nikornbodin (Toah Kalayanamit), a noble man of King Rama III who donated his own residence and a piece of land to build a temple. This friend being of Chinese ancestry, the temple is one of the favourite ones of the large Thai-Chinese community living in Bangkok. Thus, this is one of the main locations in town were the Chinese New Year is celebrated.

The central structure, which is probably one of the largest Assembly Halls (wihaan) in town, was built in typical Thai lines, though everything was exaggerated in size. Within it are many murals and a large Buddha image named "Phra Puttha Tri Rattananayok," or "Sampokong" by the Thai-Chinese, which is over fifteen meters tall and almost twelve meters wide. Next to this structure is a tower with the largest bronze bell in Thailand.

However, the Ordination Hall (ubosoth) and several other structures were unusually built in Chinese style, and the inner yard is filled with statues and items brought from China.

This is not random. The relations with China were highly emphasized at the time and were seen as a counterbalance force to the colonial intentions of Western powers. Moreover, Thailand is and was a major rice exporter while China was during the days of the temple construction one of the main customers of the kingdom. The rice barges traveling to China needed a ballast to keep them from overturning in the way back, hence many of the items in the temple’s yard – as well as the ceramic pieces used for covering Wat Arun – were brought as dead weight for the ballast effect.

From the riverside near the temple, it is possible to get a good view of the Wichaiprasit Fort. In the past there was a twin fort across the river. Both forts were connected with an underwater metal chain that allowed blocking the waterway to unauthorized ships.