Cruising in the Eastern Med

Cruising for the First Time

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Ocean Village Funnel Photo - Crete, Greece

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Ocean Village market themselves as the "Cruise for People who Don’t do Cruises". Feeling that as a family we would feel restricted on a traditional cruise line we decided to take our first steps into the world of cruising using Ocean Village.One week cruising in the Mediterranean was booked and the anticipation mounted. We booked flights with Ocean rather than booking independently for peace of mind. This proved very useful as our flight was delayed getting to Crete by several hours so the boat was kept in port until our plane arrived. If we had been independent it would have left.Arrival at the port was straightforward, passports were checked, photographs taken and a credi...Read More

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Dubrovnik (General)

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Dubrovniks Main Street Photo - Dubrovnik, Croatia

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Dubrovnik, in Croatia, is sometimes referred to as the Pearl of the Adriatic. The most delightful way so come across this medieval city is by cruise ship across the Adriatic. The early morning vista of white walls and terracotta roofs in the morning sun is a sight that will not be forgotten by myself or my family.If you do arrive by cruise ship and intend on walking to the walled city get a map before you start. It is farther than you think and is also quite hilly and it is easy to get lost..This peaceful looking gem suffered terribly in the 1990s when an attack by the Yugoslav army laid siege to the city for over 6 months. The occupants were trapped within the medieval wal...Read More

Dubrovnik, in Croatia, is sometimes referred to as the Pearl of the Adriatic. The most delightful way so come across this medieval city is by cruise ship across the Adriatic. The early morning vista of white walls and terracotta roofs in the morning sun is a sight that will not be forgotten by myself or my family.

If you do arrive by cruise ship and intend on walking to the walled city get a map before you start. It is farther than you think and is also quite hilly and it is easy to get lost.
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This peaceful looking gem suffered terribly in the 1990s when an attack by the Yugoslav army laid siege to the city for over 6 months. The occupants were trapped within the medieval walls and bombarded by shelling from the hills overlooking the city. There was no electricity of communication in the city itself. It is difficult to imagine the extent of the damage that was done as there has been a great deal of repair work carried out on the 500 or so buildings that were damaged. 43 residents also lost their lives.

The city is a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its historical and architectural significance. This has led to an increase in tourism which can cause the area to become very crowded during the height of the summer months. There is limited accommodation within the city walls and not a great deal in the immediate area so it is wise to pre-book if planning a visit during July or August. This is when the weather is at its hottest and also when the city is playing host to its festival of art and theatre.
The city is approached over a bridge and the enormity of the walls becomes apparent. The citizens of Dubrovnik are exceedingly proud of this defensive structure and it has never been breached.

Visitors enter through Pile gate and it is a good idea to start the tour of the walls from this point. There is an admission fee paid at the kiosk and then visitors have free access to the walls. The suggested route is one-way to stop people having to pass each other. The steps up to the top of the wall are very steep and quite worn so would not be recommended to anyone who may be a little unstable on their feet. Some parts are also very narrow so extreme caution should be observed and a tight hold kept on younger visitors. Although the wall-walk is quite tiring in the heat of midsummer the views are absolutely stunning and should not be missed. The shining streets in the centre of the town can be seen thronging with people. Gaze in the opposite direction and there is a gorgeous view of the blue sea surrounded by green mountains with the shiny white walls of the town in the foreground. There is an area about half-way round where visitors may descend back into the town of may stay and take refreshments whilst admiring the birds-eye view. After completing a circuit of the walls and admiring the church towers and domes it is time to descend back down near the main gate.

The Big Fountain of Onofrio is just to the right of the gate and was part of the system for getting freshwater to the city since 1444. It is said to be lucky to drink from one of the spouts but this domed structure can be crowded. Immediately ahead of the visitor is the main street called the Stradum. The polished floor glints invitingly in the sunlight with colourful shops and street cafes lining the route. Glances to the left and right reveal hidden steps leading to residences and further streets. With careful observation it is possible to see where buildings have been repaired since the siege but the work has been lovingly done and very in-keeping with the structures.

The far end of the Stradum leads to Luza Square which is surrounded by historic buildings. There is also a smaller fountain called the Small Fountain of Onofrio which is situated by the church of St Blaise. It is possible to visit the church and the nearby Sponza Palace which is the home of the state archives. In this square is also situated Orlandos Column which is in memory of a mysterious figure who helped the people of Dubrovnik defeat their enemies in the 8th Century.

The city of Dubrovnik is incredibly compact and very easy to navigate on foot. There is a lot to see in a very small area but it is also a place that entices the visitor to sit and soak up the medieval atmosphere and the baroque design that has produced such a unique example of a European city.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 4, 2009

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Kefalonia (General)

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Harbour at Sami, Kefalonia Photo - Kefalonia, Greece

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Kefalonia (or Cephalonia) is the largest of the Ionian Islands. It is a popular destination for cruise ships which is how we reached the island.We docked at Poros where there was a very pebbly beach with crystal clear water. The front was lined with brightly coloured eating places and the town set back from the road was bustling and pretty. To make the most of the short time we had on the island we took the bus tour around the island.The countryside seemed quite barren in the southern part of the island. The island was quite mountainous and it was a hair-raising journey that took us to the other side of the mountain to our first destination.Melissani Lakes- this...Read More

Kefalonia (or Cephalonia) is the largest of the Ionian Islands. It is a popular destination for cruise ships which is how we reached the island.

We docked at Poros where there was a very pebbly beach with crystal clear water. The front was lined with brightly coloured eating places and the town set back from the road was bustling and pretty. To make the most of the short time we had on the island we took the bus tour around the island.

The countryside seemed quite barren in the southern part of the island. The island was quite mountainous and it was a hair-raising journey that took us to the other side of the mountain to our first destination.

Melissani Lakes- this is obviously a very busy tourist attraction. There were busloads arriving all the time which made for quite a hectic experience. You have to queue down a cave entrance which can be a little slippery so care is needed. At the end you are suddenly transfixed by the most amazing turquoise lake. The ceiling of a cave fell in and revealed this natural wonder to the world. You transfer to boats where an oarsman transports you across the lake and into a cave. The water is the most amazing colour and extremely deep. The cave is very narrow and the boats only just have room to pass each other. If you are lucky you will get a guide who will tell you all the stories about the area. Before you know it you are being transferred back to dry land. Although this is a beautiful place to see the experience is very short (about 10 minutes) and you do feel ushered through quickly without much chance just to stand and marvel at the beauty.

Caves of Drogarti- not far from the lakes are these caves. They are easily accessed down some steep steps which would not suit those with walking or breathing difficulties although there are seats to rest on. The caves obviously used to contain an impressive display of stalagmites and stalactites but unfortunately many of these have been damaged as they were used for target practice during the war. The caves are also used as a theatre and although you are not supposed to touch the rocks I think some have probably been damaged that way too. This is also quite a short experience but the walk back out does take more time.

Sami- this attractive fishing port is very attractive. Boats bob about in the harbour and the atmosphere is quiet and calm. This was used as the setting for the filming of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. There is no longer any evidence of the sets that were built although it seems the town was completely shut off whilst filming took place and many locals worked as extras as they couldn’t carry on with their normal tourist work.

The coach tour then headed towards the north of the island where the scenery became much lusher and the views were amazing. The sea was brilliant blue and the wooded slopes dark green with rich tree growth, beaches and coves appeared around every corner. Views to the nearby island of Ithaca were nice too. The villages seemed very small and quiet which was certainly a contrast from the busy port. This was a lovely taster of a delightful island that I would love to explore further.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 12, 2009

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Ancient Olympic Games

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Attraction | "Home of the Olympics"

Olympia, statue in the Museum Photo - Ancient Olympic Games, Olympia, Greece

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The port of Katakolon on the Greek mainland is the access port that allows visits to the ancient site of Olympia. This was the home of the original Olympic Games which were also held every four years.On arrival at the site it is possible to visit the museum. This contains a lot of the artefacts that were found on the site over the period of its excavations. This museum houses everything from tiny trinkets to large portions of friezes that have been reconstructed and many statues. Flash photography is not allowed within the building although it is light and airy so good photographs are possible. One of the most interesting exhibits is a scale reproduction of what the site looked like a...Read More

The port of Katakolon on the Greek mainland is the access port that allows visits to the ancient site of Olympia. This was the home of the original Olympic Games which were also held every four years.

On arrival at the site it is possible to visit the museum. This contains a lot of the artefacts that were found on the site over the period of its excavations. This museum houses everything from tiny trinkets to large portions of friezes that have been reconstructed and many statues. Flash photography is not allowed within the building although it is light and airy so good photographs are possible. One of the most interesting exhibits is a scale reproduction of what the site looked like at its peak. This is really useful to help get a feeling for the place when it is mainly only outlines that you can see at the actual site.

After the museum we were taken to the main site. Although it was quite busy the place managed to radiate an atmosphere of calm and quiet (beside the very noisy cicadas). Some parts are quite easy to imagine. As you enter the hot and cold baths would have been to your right and there was also a large gymnasium.

Other buildings would have been hotels and practice rooms.

The two most important religious parts of the site would have been the Temple of Zeus and the Temple of Hera. Several columns from the Temple of Hera are standing and some have been reconstructed. It is easy to picture the complete temple. The Temple of Zeus has far less remaining. It originally housed an enormous statue of Zeus which is thought to have been 43ft tall. This was produced onsite in the workshop of Pheidias.

Walking to the far side of the site you enter a small tunnel and emerge on the running course. This had banked seating on the sides. I found this very atmospheric and you could really imagine the anticipation and excitement that competitors would have felt on entering this area. At the time there was only one winner who simply won a laurel wreath and great acclaim. There were no prizes for coming second. The track is in blazing sun and on the day we visited it was so hot I had trouble walking from one end to the other so it must have been difficult for the competitors in the heat. The stating blocks are still in position.

The site invites exploration. The tree lined walkways provide shade and there are discoveries to be made and you can let your imagination take hold. This is certainly an interesting ancient site to visit, ensure you get a good guide and you will really appreciate the history.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 13, 2009

Ancient Olympic Games
Elis
Olympia, Greece

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The Acropolis of Athens

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Attraction | "Delights of Athens"

View Across Athens from the Acropolis Photo - The Acropolis of Athens, Athens, Greece

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We had arrived by cruise ship at the port of Pireas and since the port is a reasonable distance from the city of Athens we took a tour bus in and around as we only had one day. First impressions were of a huge, very built up city which was very hectic. It was a lot larger than I had originally anticipated.First stop was the stadium built for the 1896 Olympics. It was impressive to view but we were not able to enter the stadium but had to take our photographs from one end. If you time it badly and lots of coaches are there at the same time it is hard to get much of an impression of the size. However if you turn around and look up on the hills you get a lovely view o...Read More

We had arrived by cruise ship at the port of Pireas and since the port is a reasonable distance from the city of Athens we took a tour bus in and around as we only had one day.

First impressions were of a huge, very built up city which was very hectic. It was a lot larger than I had originally anticipated.

First stop was the stadium built for the 1896 Olympics. It was impressive to view but we were not able to enter the stadium but had to take our photographs from one end. If you time it badly and lots of coaches are there at the same time it is hard to get much of an impression of the size. However if you turn around and look up on the hills you get a lovely view of the Acropolis.

We then went past what we were told used to be the Royal palace and now the traditionally dressed Greek presidential guards can be seen at the monument to the Unknown Soldier. They are a splendid sight in their white and black adorned uniforms and red shoes with pompoms. We were told that we were not able to stop and take photos for security reasons, I don't know if that is strictly true or whether the coach driver didn't want to try and park as the roads seemed very chaotic!

We were then taken to the Acropolis. This is the name of the hill on which several monuments are clustered. Being July it was very, very hot and the crowds were unbelievable. If you are an independent traveler I believe it would be well worth the effort to get there early. By the time we arrived at about 10.30 it was heaving. The car park is at the bottom of the hill and there is a pleasant shady walk at the foot of the hill, there are lots of locals selling all sorts so be prepared for people trying to talk to you all the time but no-one was persistent or unpleasant if you were not interested and were polite about it! There were a couple of men in Greek Guard outfits who would pose for photographs for a fee. Once you get to the base of the monuments it gets steeper and even busier. Hang on to your loved ones as it is very easy to get split up as you work your way up the narrow walkways. There are lots of groups so make sure you know what your guide looks like if you are taking a tour. This area is really not at all accessible to people with any problems in walking or in a wheelchair.Once at the top the marvels of the Parthenon are breathtaking as are the fantastic views across the whole of Athens. There is a lot of scaffolding around the Parthenon. I was surprised to find that most of the damage to the structure took place because of shelling in 1687 and gunpowder that was being stored there exploded. The Greek guide spent quite a while explaining about Lord Elgin who took most of the remaining marble to the British museum! The other main building up there is the Erechtheion which was built about 410BC and which was built with a whole in the roof to show where Poseidons trident came down whilst fighting for the city of Athens with Athena. This building is surrounded by the Caryatids which are statues of traditionally dressed maidens. None of the ones seen are original, one original is in the British Museum (Lord Elgin again!), one is missing and the others are in the Acropolis Museum. If you get a good guide they tell you all the Greek legends which are fascinating in relation to the place and the buildings. Once you have shuffled down the steps again it is time for a change of pace.

The Plaka is a maze of quiet streets with cafes and shops, not far from the Acropolis. Compared to the Parthenon it felt quiet anyway! Turn off the main streets and it was not too hectic but be careful to note which way you are walking it was quite maze like but made for good souvenir hunting.

I believe Athens has far more to offer but from what I saw I would prefer to stay out of the city and travel in for a few days to visit more of the historic sights as the city itself didn't look too appealing and the pollution is quite bad. However to visit places I had seen in photos when I studied Greek legends in my primary school was worth my asthmatic wheezing!
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 11, 2009

The Acropolis of Athens
Dionysiou Areopagitou St.
Athens, Greece
+30 210 32 14172

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Corfu Old Town

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Attraction | "Fortified Old Town"

Corfu Old Town- View from Old Fort Bridge Photo - Corfu, Greece

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The port at Corfu bought the Cruise ship within about half a mile of the Old Town of Corfu. This invited exploration on foot so we immediately set off in the direction of the town.Arriving at the New Fortress first we became aware that this was a highly fortified town. Originally the town had three forts and the town itself developed within the walls. Entry was through a small gateway in the walls. We immediately noticed the narrow streets which were crammed with shops and cafes. It was still early on a Sunday morning when we arrived. This meant that the streets were quiet but we were delighted to be able to hear music and singing coming from the Greek Orthodox Churches dotted throug...Read More

The port at Corfu bought the Cruise ship within about half a mile of the Old Town of Corfu. This invited exploration on foot so we immediately set off in the direction of the town.

Arriving at the New Fortress first we became aware that this was a highly fortified town. Originally the town had three forts and the town itself developed within the walls. Entry was through a small gateway in the walls. We immediately noticed the narrow streets which were crammed with shops and cafes. It was still early on a Sunday morning when we arrived. This meant that the streets were quiet but we were delighted to be able to hear music and singing coming from the Greek Orthodox Churches dotted throughout the town. There are over 35 in quite a compact area. On some the doors were open and we caught tantalising glimpses of beautifully decorated gold ornaments and icons.

Corfu Old Town became designated as a Unesco World Heritage site in 2007. Overlooking the whole town is the Old Fortress so that was the direction in which we headed. We came upon an attractive open plaza near the fortress which was a surprise after all the tiny streets.

Entrance to the Old Fort was 4 euro for adults and the children were free. The fortress was probably originally built in about the 15th century, however a lot was destroyed in the 19th century by the British and large parts have been rebuilt in a very British style. The most obvious feature is the lighthouse. This stands at the highest point so does require a strenuous climb to reach it. However the views from the top are outstanding and certainly make the climb worthwhile. It is hot and there are few places to buy refreshments so ensure you take plenty of water. The rest of the site has buildings and a church and you are free to roam and explore. There was limited information available in English and the map we were given on entry was a little hard to follow but it was still an interesting place to visit.

Walking back towards the town the Old Royal Palace is to your right. This ornate building has a delightful little garden that you can wander around and there are a couple of private coves in the immediate area. The yacht club can be visited by turning left as you leave the old fortress.

Due to the compact nature of the town you can’t really get lost so you can just wander up and down the interesting streets as much as you wish and you will eventually come back to the plaza or the front walls. There are lots of shops selling beautifully local produce (as well as some rubbish!) and the ice-creams we purchased there were probably the nicest we have ever had so it is certainly worth a visit.
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Member Rating 3 out of 5 on October 13, 2009

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Knossos Palace/Bronze Age Archaeological Site

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Attraction | "Palace of Knossos"

Carging Bull Fresco at Knossos Photo - Knossos Palace/Bronze Age Archaeological Site, Crete, Greece

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The final stop on our cruise for disembarkation was Crete. We were lucky enough to have an evening flight so we had some time to take an excursion before we left. My son had just finished KS2 at primary school and they had done a lot of work on Greek Myths and he was particularly keen to visit the Knossos as his class had a performed a play based on the tales of the Minotaur. Having a child keen to visit ancient remains is an opportunity not to be missed so I booked our visit! The Palace of Knossos is on a huge site (about 6 acres) showing a very complicated building plan. There were hundreds of rooms that were arranged mainly around a courtyard but there were many pathways and leve...Read More

The final stop on our cruise for disembarkation was Crete. We were lucky enough to have an evening flight so we had some time to take an excursion before we left. My son had just finished KS2 at primary school and they had done a lot of work on Greek Myths and he was particularly keen to visit the Knossos as his class had a performed a play based on the tales of the Minotaur. Having a child keen to visit ancient remains is an opportunity not to be missed so I booked our visit!

The Palace of Knossos is on a huge site (about 6 acres) showing a very complicated building plan. There were hundreds of rooms that were arranged mainly around a courtyard but there were many pathways and levels. The rooms would have been storage rooms or work-rooms. It is easy to see how the legend of the Labyrinth and the Minotaur came about. The half man/half bull animal was kept in a maze and was eventually killed by the hero Theseus. Bulls did used to run inside the palace on festival days and it seems that the Greek word for Labyrinth is very close to a word for the two-headed axe symbol (labrys) which appears a lot around the Palace, these may have religious significance. Over time it is believed that all of these factors became confused into the legend we know today.

Some of the palace was controversially reconstructed by Sir Arthur Evans in the early 1900s. He was able to buy the site and although he declared that the reconstructions were based on sound historical knowledge this is doubted. He was responsible for the huge excavation project on the site although he did not discover the site of the ruins originally. There are parts of stairways, painted dolphin rooms and the enormous canopic jars dotted around and these should not to be missed. We queued for ages to view a very small room which contained a small throne and some wall paintings, to be honest they were not terribly impressive and I wouldn't queue again. These paintings were created by recent artists, they are not original. There are several Frescoes around the site but most are not guaranteed as genuine. However they still give a good depiction of what life was like in the Minoan culture.

The scope of the palace was the most impressive part and we had one of the local guides who was very knowledgeable but didn't realize that we brits wilt in the heat and we kept having to try and find shade (there isn't a lot!). There is a part that had been a theatre with stepped seating and it is also possible to see some of the water courses that were built.

There were lovely views from the back of the palace over the surrounding area.

We spent a couple of hours at the site, visiting in August it was extremely hot and you will need to take plenty of water with you. The site is open from about 8 a.m. so if you are not tied to a timetable I would think an early arrival would be more comfortable. It is an excursion I would certainly recommend if you are in Crete and certainly appeals to all the family which is always a bonus.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 11, 2009

Knossos Palace/Bronze Age Archaeological Site
Heraklion
Crete, Greece

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