Places I Have Visited in Northumberland

I recently spent a few days in Northumberland, and took the opportunity to return to Lindisfarne, or Holy Island as it is probably better known.

Locally, the island is rarely referred to as 'Lindisfarne'. The signposts mostly state 'Holy Island'. Following on from the murderous and bloodthirsty attack on the monestary by the Vikings in 793AD, it obtained its local name from the observations made by the Durham monks: 'Lindisfarne - baptised in the blood of so many good men - truly a 'Holy Island'. Its more appropriate title is 'The Holy Island of Lindisfarne'.


Travelling along the A1 south of Berwick-upon-Tweed, you will notice Holy Island signposted. After turning off from the A1, a short drive brings you to the causeway which you have to cross to reach the island.
The causeway is open twice daily, dictated by the tides, so if you are planning a trip there it is essential you look up the times it is safe to cross the causeway. Info can be found at www.Lindisfarne.org.uk.
Tourist Information centres will also provide you with a print-out of crossing times.

On the day of my visit the causeway was not safe to cross until 4pm which meant a late visit, but I witnessed a spectacular sunset whilst there, so that alone made up for not being able to visit earlier in the day.

After crossing the causeway you come to a large car park, where you can park and catch shuttle mini buses to the castle, or you can choose to walk, but it is quite a distance to the castle.
A few minutes walk brings you to the village, where you can visit Lindisfarne Priory.
Building on the Priory began during the late 11th century, and is regarded by many to be the 'taster' for the building of Durham Cathedral. The Priory was built on the ground east of St Mary's Church, where late in the 7th century the church of St Peter stood. Saint Cuthbert amongst other 'northern' saints were interred within the church.
It is also here that the famous 'Lindisfarne Gospels' were produced.
We also visited the Lindisfarne Centre and heritage shop where you can buy souvenirs and find out more about the island's heritage.

Whilst visiting Holy Island you may want to taste the famous Lindisfarne Mead, which is a honey-based fortified wine dating back some 1300 years to a time when mead was first produced by the monks of the Priory. You can also buy bottles of Lindisfarne Mead to take home.

There are cafe's and a couple of pubs on the island, so plenty of places to stop for a drink or something to eat.
We noticed walking around the island there are many signposts reminding you not to leave it too late to cross the causeway before the tide changes. I wondered how many people have actually found themselves stranded after leaving it too late to cross! The tide comes in really quickly and at the start of the causeway it tells you not to cross if water can be seen at a certain point.

We chose to take the mile walk to the castle at the northern end of the island, which guards the entrance to the harbour. The view across the bay to Bamburgh Castle is stunning.
The castle was built in 1550 as an artillery fort during the reign of Henry VIII, it was bought in the 1880's by Edward Hudson and restored as a holiday residence. Renowned architect, Sir Edward Lutyens converted the fort to a home. The walled garden was created later.
It is said that the castle was constructed with stone taken from the Priory, however, the Priory remained standing well into the 17th century when it collapsed through neglect. Also the number of stones comprising the castle is considerable compared to those that would have been available on the site of the Priory.

The castle is now managed by the National Trust, and sits atop a volcanic mound known as Beblowe Craig. The views from the castle are amazing!

If you are a member of the National Trust then entry to the castle is free, otherwise the prices are £5.70 for adults and £2.80 for children. The castle is open daily except Mondays. We chose not to enter the castle on this visit due to it being late in the day, but throughly enjoyed the walk, the views and taking photographs.

Lindisfarne is also a National Nature Reserve whose mudflats, sand dunes and salt marshes are home to a variety of plants providing the habitat for migrating birds and wildlife.

Returning across the causeway the sun was going down and the scenery was beautiful. The reflection of the clouds in the pools of water on the mudflats, and the colours of the sky made for some lovely photographs.
Indeed there were quite a few photographers clicking away at the beginning of the causeway to return back to the mainland.

I thoroughly enjoyed visiting Holy Island again as it was a number of years since my last visit. It is a place that I feel always has a sense of peace and tranquility no matter how many people are visiting. We learned on our visit that around 160 people live on the island, but 650,000 people visit it each year!

In my opinion no visit to Northumberland is complete without a visit to Holy Island, just make sure you observe the safe crossing times!

Standing majestically up here on the North East coast is Bamburgh Castle.

To anyone visiting Northumberland's beautiful coastline, Bamburgh Castle is a beautiful site, and there surely are few castles that can claim a more dramatic setting.
It sits on an outcrop of rocks overlooking the long sandy beach, and is a place I have visited many times over the years, as I love the remoteness of the coast here, and I also love to visit castles and cathedrals.
I can vividly recall one of my earliest visits, sitting on the huge canons here, and having my photograph taken with my Mum and Dad when I was around 5 years old.

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HISTORY
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There is evidence to believe that this fortress goes back to the Iron age, but the present castle began as a Saxon stronghold, and was later developed by the Normans and became one of the most powerful castles of the North Country.
During the Saxon period it acquired fame for being the resting place of the head and right hand of St Oswald!
Not much remains of the original Norman castle developed by the Earl of Northumberland in the 11th century, other than a portion of the mighty keep.

In 1095, the Earl of Northumberland fell out with William II, and Bamburgh was laid siege by the king, but this was unsuccessful. The Earl of Northumberland was eventually captured fleeing to Tynemouth and his wife surrendered the castle.
The castle remained a 'royal' castle for much of its life, however on one occasion it was taken by Scotland, but then regained by Henry II, who it is said completed the great keep, and the castle's three baileys.

During the War of The Roses, the castle was held by the Lancastrians, then in 1464 it was battered by canons after being captured by the Earl of Warwick, and it remined in ruins for over two centuries.

In the 18th century, Archdeacon Sharp restored the castle by investing his own money into it.
The castle saw further restoration throughout the Victorian era, followed by more work in the early 1900's, by Lord Armstrong.
Lord Armstrong is a Newcastle-born inventor, and maker of the renowned Armstrong gun, and bears most of the responsibilty for creating this awesome sight today that is Bamburgh Castle.

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VISITING BAMBURGH CASTLE
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Visitors to the castle are able to view a number of the castle's rooms, by taking the public tour.
Walking around the castle both inside and outside, with its breathtaking views over the beautiful coastline and nearby Farne Islands, is a great experience.
Inside, I particularly like the King's Hall with its medieval character, wood carvings and vaulted ceilings.
Also included in the tour is the Cross Hall, the Bakehouse, the Scullery, the Armoury and the Dungeon, as well as reception rooms. There are displays of armour, tapestries, arms and furniture throughout.
Whilst I was on the tour guides were very helpful and happy to answer any questions.
In what was once the Laundry room, is now a museum dedicated to the life and work of Lord Armstrong.

Walking around the outside of the castle along its mighty 150ft curtain wall and battlements always takes me back to my visits when I was younger. I have always loved visiting Bamburgh Castle, and although the inside is very interesting, the outside of the castle is my favourite part, and it also looks lovely when floodlit at night. I love views and scenery!
Walking along the beach below and looking up to this imposing structure is an awesome site. Don't forget your camera!

If you are lucky enough to visit on a warm summer day, then you may also wish to spend some time on the beach here. The Northumberland coast has beautiful beaches, with long stretches of golden sand, as it is here at Bamburgh.

A cafe and gift shop are also located inside the castle.

The castle is open daily from 1st March - 1st November from 10am - 5am.
Admission prices are Adults £7.50, Children (5-15yrs) £3.50 and Senior Citizens £6.50.
Group rates are available, contact 01668 214515 for details.

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GETTING THERE
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Bamburgh Castle is easily reached from the A1 in Northumberland, and is clearly signposted. You turn off the A1 at the B1342, where it is signposted and the castle is 4 miles down the road.
The postcode for sat nav is NE69 7DF.

Also nearby in the area is Holy Island, home to Lindisfarne Castle and Priory which is reached via a causeway at low tide.
I would throughly recommend a visit here too.

Bamburgh Castle remains one of my favourite places to visit, and I have never seen another castle in a dramatic setting as beautiful as this.

On my recent visit to Northumberland which is not far from where I live, I took the time to visit some castles and places of interest which I had not been to for a few years, and Warkworth Castle was on my list of places to re-visit.

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WHERE IS WARKWORTH CASTLE?
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Warkworth Castle sits proudly on top of a hill overlooking the River Coquet in the historic village of Warkworth on the coast of Northumberland. Visitors in the springtime will see the hill covered with hundreds of daffodils.
As the River Coquet joins the sea, you will find this picturesque village and the nearby port of Amble, with its marina and braid. They are both lovely places to visit and can be combined into one day.

In the 12th century Warkworth was known as 'Werceworde' - that is the home of a woman called Werce, but its first entry in the history books was in 737 when Coelwulf, King of Northumbria, bestowed it to the monks of Lindisfarne.

Warkworth Castle is easily accessed from the A1, by turning off on to the A1068. It is approx 7.5 miles south of Alnwick.
The nearest train station is Alnmouth, 3.5 miles away. Buses run from Newcastle to Alnwick. (Arriva 518)

We drove into Warkworth, entering the village by the River Coquet and it looks really pretty as you look up to the top of the hill and see the castle. It is also very nice down beside the river.
Driving up the hill, through the village brings you to the entrance to the castle. There is a large green outside where you can park your car. You are now charged for parking your car, but if you are going into the castle, then you receive a reduction on the admission price.
There is a toilet block at the end of the car park, and the green itself is an ideal place for a picnic.

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A LITTLE HISTORY
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Warkworth Castle was constructed as a wooden fortress after the Norman conquest.

The history of the village and the castle are intertwined, and in 1332 the Percy family took over the castle, and during this time the castle was rebuilt with sandstone curtain walls and greatly reinforced. The Percy Lion is carved into the stone at several points around the castle.

The most famous of the Percy family were the first Earl of Northumberland and his son Harry Hotspur, the hero of many Border ballads as the bane of the Scots raiders, and also a dominant character in Shakespeare's Henry IV. Three of the scenes in Henry IV Part 1 are set in Warkworth.
The powerful Percy family were responsible for putting Henry IV on the throne, but later conspired against him.
Harry Hotspur was killed at the battle of Shrewsbury in 1403 and Henry came North and took Warkworth.

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THE CASTLE TODAY
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Today Warkworth Castle is in the care of English Heritage, and the impressive 15th century keep, which is still roofed and almost complete, together with the courtyard, is one of the finest preserved examples in the country.
The keep is almost like a castle within a castle, and has three floors containing a hall, chapel, kitchen and storerooms. It is accessed via a wide staircase, and there is plenty to see as you are free to wander throughout. There were a few children there during my visit and they seemed to be having a great time exploring the keep and pretending they were soldiers!

The other two sections are the inner and outer bailey.
The inner bailey is bordered on the south side by the collegiate church, and to the east and west by the curtain walls. There is a separate building which once was home to the brewery and the laundry.
The main entrance leads into the outer bailey which consists of an open area bounded by some of the castle's internal buildings. Across the northern boundary of the bailey is the collegiate church, and access to northern parts of the castle is via a tunnel underneath the church.

One of the most impressive things about the castle is the entrance, which is over a drawbridge across a moat. I feel that part of the reason the castle is so appealing to both adults and children alike, is because the castle sits on top of a hill surrounded by a moat. I always remember drawing castles as a child and always drew a moat around them!

I also studied Shakespeare's Henry IV Part 1 for my English Literature O'Level when I was at school, and my visit brought back some memories of this. I couldn't help but think I wished I had visited the castle back then, it may have helped me with my course work!
Warkworth was described by Shakespeare as 'this worm-eaten hold of ragged stone, where Hotspur's father, old Northumberland, lies craft-sick'.

I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to the castle, it was well worth the admission price as there is so much to see, and the views both from the castle, and also looking up to the castle from the River Coquet are beautiful. I would recommend a walk around the castle walls and also a walk down by the river below.

There is a small shop inside the castle for souvenirs and information. There is access for the disabled, but it is quite limited. Dogs are restricted to certain areas only and must be kept on a leash.

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OPENING TIMES AND PRICES
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The castle is open every day from 1st April - 1st November from 10 am - 5pm (please note it closes an hour earlier at 4pm from 1st Oct - 1st Nov).

From 2nd Nov - 31st March the castle is open on Sat, Sun and Mon 10am -4pm.
The Duke's Rooms in the castle keep are open on Wed, Sun and bank Holidays from 1st April - 30th Sept.

The castle is closed from 24th-26th Dec and also 1st Jan.

Entrance is free for members of English Heritage. The admission prices for non-members are £4.20 for adults and £2.10 children. There is also a concession price of £3.60.

Family tickets are available priced at £10.50.

There is also a 15% discount for groups of 11 or more, plus a free place for every additonal 20 visitors.

Audio tours for the visually or hearing impaired visitors are available.

Please remember that the cost of car parking will be refunded upon admission to the castle.

Warkworth Castle
Warkworth
Northumberland
NE65 0UJ

Tel. 01665 711423

The Kings Head Hotel is a place I came across when having a drive out in the country one day a few years ago.
It can be found overlooking the cobbled town square in the rural village of Allendale, in Northumberland, and has been there since the late 17th century.

We first drove into Allendale by following the signposts from the A69, which is a long stretch of road running from Newcastle, and following part of Hadrian's Wall, to Carlisle. Allendale lies about halfway across the A69, 10 miles south of Hexham. We have returned here many times since our first visit.
Allendale always seems very quiet and is described as a sleepy village. it has a few pubs, little shops and parking spaces in the town square.
Allendale recently was voted England's village of the year 2008, and is surrounded by unspoilt countryside that David Bellamy describes as England's last wilderness.

The Kings Head Hotel is not the only pub in the village, but sitting at the head of the square and advertising home-cooked meals, it did look very appealing. On a warm sunny day, it is a popular place to sit outside with a cool drink in the sunshine, at the tables provided.

Inside, it is small and has a typical country pub feel. It also gets very busy, as it is very popular for meals.
We are always given a warm and friendly greeting by the owners, Kate and Pete, who have lived in the village for 14 years, and take the time to make their customers feel welcome.

The Kings Head has also undergone a refurbishment since we first began visiting here in 2002, but has retained its cosy feel and also it's open fire, which is said to be the best in the Allen valley!
There are wooden tables and chairs, wooden beams on the ceiling and stone floors, all adding to the cosy country pub feel.
There are also 5 rooms available on the second floor if you wish to stay here. All rooms are en-suite and available at £70 per night which includes a full English breakfast.
I have never stayed here, but have visited the pub for meals and drinks on many occasions. One thing I know for sure is you would be made to feel very welcome.

The pub has featured continuously for many years in the The Good Pub Guide, also serves a range of cask ales including Jenning's Cumberland and Marston's Pedigree Ale.

The reason I have returned many times is that not only is it a lovely little pub with friendly owners, but also the food is delicious! The owners state there is 'nowt posh or la-di-da' ( the owner's words) about their food, but offer great hospitality and a hearty and wholesome menu.
A wide variety of home-cooked meals are on offer as well as lovely Sunday roasts, which are served between 12 -4pm every Sunday, but beware it does get very busy as it is very popular, so it may be advisable to book.

The Sunday roasts usually have a choice of meat, served with yorkshire puddings and vegetables which are brought to your table in tureens. I have enjoyed these many times. The food is always of good quality and tastes delicious.
I have also visited through the week and enjoyed other meals from the menu such as Sirloin Steak, where locally sourced beef is used, and is served with homemade chips, grilled mushrooms, tomato and onion rings for £11.95. I like to add a pepper sauce to my steak and this as well as other sauces are available.
Cheaper meals include Beef cobbler,Chicken Curry, Gammon, Battered Cod and Lasagne at £8.95, or Mushroom and Stilton tart, and Ploughman's Platter at £7.95.
Please note this is only a sample of meals available, there are also daily specials on the blackboards, and a choice of potato, salad and vegetables are available with all meals.

Starters include homemade soup of the day, which I have enjoyed many times and is served with crusty bread, for £3.50. Also, Jalapeno Poppers, Butterfly Prawns at £4.25 are recommended.

As for desserts I cannot resist the gorgeous Toffee Lumpy Bumpy Cake - it is heaven on a plate! I am afraid I cannot comment on the other desserts available such as Pecan Pie, Chocolate Tarte and many more, as I fell in love with the Lumpy Bumpy cake on my first visit and have been unable to resist it ever since! It is priced at £4.25 as are most of the desserts except ice cream which is cheaper.

A snack menu is also served at The Kings Head daily (except Sunday) from 12 - 4pm and includes Sandwiches, Baguettes and Toasties from £3.50 - £5.00.

You are asked to place your food order at the bar, and then it is freshly cooked, which means you may have to wait a while, and then brought to your table.

I can highly recommend a visit to The Kings Head as either just a nice friendly place to visit for a meal, or a stop-off if ever you are visiting Northumberland's countryside. Either way, you will be assured of a friendly welcome and delicious food. It is nice to visit a place where the owners and staff take the time to make you feel welcome. This place gets 5 stars from me!

The King's Head Hotel
Allendale
Northumberland

Tel. 01434 683681 for bookings.

I am fortunate in that living in the North East of England, Northumberland is right on my doorstep. Despite visiting the castles and heritage sites of Northumberland regularly over the years, I had never visited Dunstanburgh Castle until last week.

I had seen the castle on TV, photographs and paintings, but actually visiting the castle was most impressive, not only because it is such a dramatic ruin, but also because of its very remote setting on the coast. I read that Turner painted the castle many times, often getting up at the crack of dawn to do so!

The castle occupies a prominent headland inbetween Embleton and Craster. From Craster there is a gentle slope towards the castle, and from Embleton the approach is much steeper, as the northern perimeter juts into Embleton Bay forming a 150ft cliff.

Dunstanburgh Castle was built by the ruthless Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, who began construction of the fortress in 1313. Thomas was executed in 1322 and by this time the castle was mostly completed.
The new owner, John of Gaunt extended the castle, and it later became a Lancastrian stronghold and suffered enormous damgage during the Wars of the Roses.
After this, the castle fell steadily into decay, and over the years continued to deteriorate. Stone was taken from the castle to build other places in the area.
The castle was donated to the Minisitry of Works in 1929 by its last private owner and is now owned by the National Trust, and managed by English Heritage.

I had read that the castle can only be accessed on foot and involved a walk along the cliff tops. I was advised by the Tourist Information Centre that the castle could be reached from the village of Craster. I later found out on my visit that it can also be reached from Embleton (again on foot only). I believe I must have been advised to access the castle from Craster due to it being the easier approach of the two.

Whilst driving south along the coast to Craster I caught my first glimpse of the castle occupying the headland on a very lonely stretch of coastline.
On arriving in Craster, you come to a car park before entering the village. We parked our car and set off walking the short distance into the village which owes its name to the Craster family who have lived in nearby Craster Tower since the early 15th century.

Craster is a pretty fishing village with a thriving harbour and a history of being famous for its smokehouses, which remain to this day.
Walking along past the harbour you come to a signpost at the end of a row of cottages pointing you in the direction of the castle which is visible in the distance. I must point out though that it is a 1.5 mile walk from this point up to the castle!

Entering through a gate you follow the pathways along the coastline up to the castle. The walk is mostly flat until you are very near the castle, then it slopes upwards to the entrance.
There were many people strolling up along the walk to the castle and back, as well as fishermen. Dogs are allowed, but they must be kept on a leash as there are cows in the field.

As you are walking along and up towards the castle the scenery is beautiful, and the ruins of the castle sit majestically on the headland. I loved the remoteness of it all, and I think it is this setting which makes it such an amazing place to visit.
The fact you have to walk to the castle may be a disadvantage for some, but the fact it cannot be reached by car adds to the beauty of the place in my opinion.

On reaching the castle you notice it is protected by a long wall with two rectangular towers, turrets and a massive gatehouse, which served as the principal residential block of the castle. Chambers furnished with fireplaces are found in the towers and the gatehouse. From here, the wall carries northwards to a turreted watchtower, known as the Lilburn Tower. There is a large amount of land in the middle of the castle which is said to have been a billeting area for troops.
The castle is much larger than I imagined it to be, and I did not know prior to my visit that it is the largest in Northumberland. I found it very impressive.

If you wish to enter the castle then there is a charge of £3.50 for adults and £1.80 for children.
There are many folk who just seem to enjoy the 3 mile round trip walk to the castle and back without entering. Of course they may have visited previously, live in Craster, or be on holiday there. I know I will return and walk up to the castle again, but probably won't enter next time.
I joined the many visitors taking photographs and because it was a dark, cloudy and humid day, the castle had an eerie feel about it.

I thoroughly enjoyed my walk to Dunstanburgh Castle and can highly recommend a visit.

There is a small gift shop selling souvenirs, postcards etc and hot drinks and snacks are also available.

The castle is open seven days a week from 10am - 4pm from 1st April - 30th Oct. From 2nd Nov - 30th March it is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. The last admission is 30 mins before closing time.

For further information email dunstanburghcastle@nationaltrust.org.uk or telephone 01665 576231.

Dunstanburgh Castle
Craster
Northumberland
NE66 3TT