Thailand

Jim Thompson Thai House.

Who was Jim Thompson?

Jim Thompson was an American entrepreneur born in 1906 in Greenville, Delaware. He attended university and trained as an architect. He volunteered to join the Army and became a member of the OSS a forerunner of the CIA and served in France, Northern Africa and Asia. He was trained in jungle warfare and jungle survival.

At the end of the war he was recalled to the USA and discharged from the forces but he knew that with the development of air travel tourism to Asia would take off but there was very little accommodation suitable for Westerners in Bangkok with the exception of the famous Oriental hotel which had seen the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Somerset Vaughn and Noel Coward as patrons. It was a meeting place for the European community out in the East. He became involved in the development of hotels suitable for visiting Europeans.

He noted that the silk was of the finest quality being produced in cottage industries around Thailand and sent to Bangkok for spinning and dying but it was a floundering
Business and the silk produced was only used for ceremonial occasions. This is where he stood in by supporting the weavers and encouraging the industry by setting up the Jim Thompson silk company.

He introduced traditional weaving and a number of new innovations to improve the quality and amount of silk produced. Some of his inventions are still in use today for example he introduced foot pedals to increase the speed of spinning thereby increasing output. He also introduced strict quality control measures to improve the standard of silk production and also instead of vegetable dyes that were used he replaced them with Swiss dye fast dyes.

In 1948 he sold 500 shares to Thai people 51% to the Thais and the remaining 49% to western businessmen raising $25,000. By the 1960’s the annual turn over was in the region of $1.5 million.

Silk became a very sort after commodity and was brought in great amounts to furnish the Suites in the London Savoy hotel, the Canaletto room at Windsor castle the ballrooms and suites at the Hong Kong Hilton and all the costumes used by the actors in Ben Hur. Many fashion houses in the west from Paris to New York bought Thai Silk for producing clothing in colours of the finest of silks.

The main theory and plans was that the majority of the profits made should be invested in improving lives for the people of Thailand and in the 1960’s was awarded an honour of the white elephant by Royal Thai government. Today the industry supports 20,000 Thai weaving families.

He travelled extensively and regularly throughout Burma, Laos, Cambodia and Malaysia collecting fine artworks which he brought back to Bangkok with him and displayed in his house.

In 1967 Jim Thompson accompanied friends on holiday to the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. One afternoon he went out alone into the jungle never to be seen again! Search parties were unable to locate his whereabouts and eventually he was deemed as being missing. There were different theories about his disappearance but without proof none can be substantiated. Bearing in mind he was trained in jungle warfare and jungle survival in the OSS it seems strange that he disappeared without trace . No body has ever been found.

The House.

Today it is a museum displaying many of the antiques he acquired during his life in the Far East. He built a house out of six traditional Thai houses beside one of the canals on the opposite banks where the silk production took place and it is one of the most visited places in Bangkok. The house is built on stilts and cooler air is drawn up from below and the hot air escapes through slots in the roof keeping the house cool. During its construction no metal nails were used only jointing and wooden pegs.


Entering the house grounds you find yourself in a large courtyard surrounded with traditional Thai teak buildings with ornamental ponds and statues. There are trees and exotic foliage landscaped to resemble a jungle setting and exotic orchids in the grounds. You are free to explore some of the smaller rooms around the courtyard that houses some of his artwork and silk work. All visitors to the house have to join a tour which is conducted in English, Japanese and Thai in groups of approximately 10 people which leave every 15-30 minutes.

The house comprises six houses from various parts of Thailand put together to form one large house. Starting at one end of the house you mount the stairs to the guest bedroom which is furnished with many antiques and overlooks the canal. You then pass through the master bedroom and a further guest bedroom after which you come to a gallery that overlooks the massive drawing room. Walking across the gallery you come to another large room that houses more art work and object D’art. The house is tastefully decorated and furnished throughout with fine art works, traditional Asian art and porcelain. Some of the statues date from the 14th century.

You then descend another flight of stairs to the ground floor. You enter an antechamber before walking into the vast drawing room and at the other end of the drawing room there is a library. At the front of the drawing room leading out to a wide terrace that over looks the landing stage on the canal and then you come across the dining room overlooking the Saan Saab canal.

Jim Thompson loved to entertain and frequent entertainments occurred in the house with Traditional Thai dancing displays on the terrace accompanied by local Thai bands. It became a quite prestigious occasion to be on the guest list to one of his evening events and dining on Traditional Thai banquets and drinking cocktails on the terrace before the entertainment began.

The Saan Saab Canal is one of the longest in Bangkok and is quite a busy waterway. The house although in the heart of Bangkok is very peaceful and relaxing and a relief from the hubbub of the noise and excitement of the busy traffic.

Since Jim Thompsons untimely death a foundation was set up and this pours profits from the silk industry to improve the lives of the Thai people. The foundation supports and overlooks the running of his companies, the house and an educational facility for the blind.

Visiting the house.

It is quite easy to reach as it is just opposite the Sky train station at the stadium.
You can also reach it by Tuk tuk or by taxi but I would recommend using the sky train as it is only about 200 meters from the station.

It is open from 09:00 to 18:00 daily the last tour is a 17:00. You are not permitted to visit the house unaccompanied and the guides are very well informed and able to answer all questions without any difficulty.

Price of Admission is 100 Bhat.

Facilities include a shop, restaurant and toilet facilities.
Not suitable for people with mobility problems.

Address:

Jim Thompson House
6 Soi Kasemsan 2,
Rama 1 Road,
Bangkok.

Bangkok Floating Market: Damnoen Saduak


Where!

The floating Market of James Bond fame is not actually in Bangkok at all but involves a two hour journey to reach it by road. It is 110 kms to the west of Bangkok. Usually people visit this market en route to somewhere else or combine a visit to other places of interest.

Various canals known as khlongs were built to assist in the transportation of goods around Thailand as there is an abundant supply of rivers and waterways in this area. The canals were used to bring water to the farmers in order to water their crops. It was also a quicker means for rural farmers to bring their produce to the markets to sell.
The region is very fertile and a wide variety of produce are grown including cabbages, beans, coconuts, papayas, oranges, grapes, onion, melons, star fruit, mangoes pineapples and bananas.

The local people live along side the Canals some on houses built on stilts and during your visit here you can see the local people washing and bathing in the canals kids playing in the water en route to the market.

On reaching Damnoen Saduak you take a long boat ride to the market. These boats are about 20 to 30 feet long are very narrow and carry about ten persons on little slat type seats. Much too small for some western bums I might add. You are transported at speed along the canals leaving a wake behind you unfortunately the boats returning in the opposite direction also leave a wake and you can be thrown about and may get soaked in the process. Hey it’s all part of the fun.

On reaching the Market area you are dropped off and may walk along to the market where there are men with low tables with various pythons on. They may approach the tourists and dump them round your neck and then charge you for having your photo taken. Passing swiftly by you reach the market proper where there are café’s and stalls selling all kinds of locally produced items nick nacks, souvenirs and clothing. It is absolutely mental here and quite crowded with both locals and tourists alike.

You transfer here into smaller long boats that go along the canal that have small shops either side selling all kinds of colourful fruit and flowers, various souvenirs pots and pans and all kinds of house wares. The boats are usually steered by women using poles, with sun scorched faces wearing straw hats to try to protect them from the burning sun. Boats filled with all kinds of merchandise ply beside you trying to tempt you to buy something from them.

There are even boats cooking all kinds of delicacies which paddle past, little pots of bubbling curries, rice or noodles. There are bubbling woks, frying all kinds of meats and snacks to sell to the workers shoppers and tourists in an attempt to make a living for the families. Although it is a working market there is a sense that some of it is put on for the benefit of tourists. Saying that it is good fun and there are amazing abundance of colours and smells to attack your senses.

Shops on the other side of the canal sell stuff to people on the opposite side of the canal by means of tins attached to pulley ropes. The person calls across to the vendor what they want then a tin is dispatched across by pulley rope, the money is put in and sent back across the canal the goods and change are placed back in the tin and sent to the shopper.

The market is open from 08:00 and closes around 11:00.

Cost of air-conditioned mini bus to the market on an organised tour is around about £10 including the price of the boat trips for a half day tour.

You can go independently by bus which costs about a pound from Bangkok and the boat trip costs around 10 Baht which is roughly equivalent to 20p.

Would I recommend this trip.

Yes absolutely but I would combine it with an organised tour as you get to see so much more.

Kanchanaburi and the Bridge over the river Kwai.

Where:

Kanchanaburi town is situated in Kanchanaburi province in the West of Thailand approximately 150 Kms from Bangkok. The population of Kanchanaburi town is about 750,000. Two rivers, the River Kwai Noi and the River Kwai Yai merge into one which is not actually called the River Kwai but is actually the River Maeklong through the town of Kanchanaburi.

The term River Kwai was immortalised in the novel ‘Bridge over the river Kwai’ by French writer Pierre Boulle and followed later by the 1957 film starring Sir Alec Guinness, Jack Hawkins and William Holden so this is how the name Bridge over the rive Kwai was coined. Although some of it is factually incorrect there are aspects of it that are true.

The town was founded in the 18th Century as a defence to protect the Thais against Burma and is still used as a smuggling route. Of more recent world fame of Kanchanaburi is because of its notorious railway built during the Second World War during the Japanese occupation of Thailand when over 100,000 prisoners of war and local people lost their lives during its construction. It was a particularly difficult feat due to the inhospitable terrain. Mountains, including the Three Pagoda pass, inhospitable jungle and one of the biggest stumbling blocks to the railway lines construction was the river Maeklong.

The prisoners of war many of whom were in their teens were starving and lived on meagre rations of rice and water. The heat and humidity was unbearable. They had to cut their way through the jungles then dig by hand a pass through the solid mountains laying the track as they went.

Many died on the spot from shear exhaustion, malnutrition, malaria, dysentry and various other tropical diseases. The Japanese were brutal and punished the prisoners of war in unimaginable ways. If they became too ill to work they were dispatched to meet their maker which was a happy release to the unimaginable suffering they were enduring. To protect the bridge the Japanese forced the men to stand on the bridge during air raids and many lives were lost this way. The officers often hindered the progress of the construction of the bridge by sabotaging it which prolonged its construction.


How to get there:

Bus

There are regular air conditioned mini buses that ferry tourists from the southern bus terminal in Bangkok. They run approximately every 30 minutes and cost about 95 Bhat which is about £1.50. The journey takes approximately 2 hours.

Alternatively you can go on an organised tour and the mini bus will pick you up from the foyer of your hotel and drop you back at the end of the day. Usually these tours take in another attraction en route such as the floating market or Buddhist temples and a buffet lunch in a local restaurant.
Don’t book it through your hotel you will pay exorbitant rates instead go to one of the local travel agencies who will organise it for you. The cost of an organised tour is roughly £20. The quote from the hotel was £100 each.

Train:

There is a local train 3rd class (Yes it does exist) which is not recommended with wooden benches, no windows, no fan or aircon and locals with their chickens etc and takes hours to get there however it does touch on some of the original railway line built by the POW’s. Again it is very cheap costs approximately £2.


Taxi.

The most expensive way but the quickest way is by taxi costing approximately 3000 Baht (£60). It only takes about an hour and a half.


What to see:


The Bridge over the river Kwai.

The actual bridge is still there however it is now supported by concrete buttresses. It is a magnificent sight straddling the river. Beside the Bridge on the town side there are a couple of restaurants over looking the river and bridge. There are some souvenir shops and locals selling various things. There is a small modern tourist train that goes across the bridge but the best way of seeing the bridge is to walk across it yourself. It is safe to do so and there are some safe areas to get into when the train passes.

The cemetries.

There are two major cemeteries. Don Rak War Cemetery is in the town centre opposite the railway station. 6982 British Australian and Dutch prisoners were buried here.
The second Cemetery is called the Chonk Kai War cemetery which is about a mile outside Kanchuraburi on the banks of the River. Here there are 1,740 POW’s buried including 1,379 British soldiers.

It is very sad to see row after row of headstones in memory of so many young men some in their teens 17, 18 19 years old. Most were in their 20’s and some in their 30’s I didn’t see many above 40, 50. It is very thought provoking and a reminder of how wicked and evil and pointless the human race can be to invoke such inhumane treatment on a fellow human being.

We visited this cemetry on Christmas day as it was not really celebrated in Thailand so that we could lay some flowers on the graves of those who gave so much at such a young age and on behalf of those who were not able to get out and make a personal trip to remember loved ones.

Two war museums.

The JEATH war museum.

JEATH is an acronym for Japanese England Australian Thailand and Holland and is run by a monk. There are various artifacts and photos of conditions during the occupation.

The bridge museum is a private museum built nearer the bridge and houses various artifacts and an old Japanese steam train. This museum is constantly being added to. There is not a lot to see here but it is a poignant reminder of how those poor men were treated.


Shopping and eating

There are various shops and restaurants in the town catering for locals and tourists alike. There is a night market near the station which sells all kinds of gear imaginable and certainly much cheaper than in Bangkok. Haggling over the price is expected and the norm.

Surrounding area.

The Kao Pun Wat and the cave about 5KMs from Kanchanurburi housing various Hindu and Buddhist Buddahs and images.

The tiger temple. Rescued tigers were taken here to the temple for the monks to look after. They are allowed to roam in relative freedom and visitors are encouraged to stroke them by the monks. They roam around in a small sanctuary. They are wild and apparently there has only been one attack on a human in a decade. They advise you not to wear red if visiting here as it attracts the tiger.

Erawan National Park

This national park is about 500 Kms square and there are several caves containing stalagmites and stalagtites. There are fantastic waterfalls and pools some of which are safe to swim in. There are chances to see wild elephant’s monkeys and eagles and even dare I say even King cobras and pythons. EEK!

Srinagarindra National Park

It is difficult to get here although once there it is worth the visit as there are waterfalls and beautiful fauna and flora here. The easiest way to get here is by boat as the road descends into a mud track.

The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, Bangkok.

The easiest way of getting to the Palace is by using one of the frequent river boats or river taxis along the Chao Phraya River rather than using a taxi or a Tuk Tuk. (Motor cycle taxi rickshaw). Bangkok is notorious for its traffic congestion and the pollution from the traffic fumes is abominable.
The palace is a massive complex surrounded by a very large wall enclosing approximately 218,400 square meters of palace buildings and temples. The largest temple in the palace complex is called Prasat Phra Debidorn which is adorned with thousands of glittering and shimmering tiles and pieces of glass and gold leaf. In front of the temple is the golden Phra Sri Ratana Chedi which is one of the most famous sights of Bangkok and can be seen for miles around. This area is on a raised terrace and there is also a miniature model of Angkor Wat here too.
Within the complex one of the temples Wat Phra Kaew, houses the Jade Buddha which is the most significant and revered Buddha in Thailand. It is tiny in comparison to other Buddha’s and is said to have been carved out of a single piece of Jade originally from India but has travelled to many places after being pillaged by invaders including Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Laos and finally back to Thailand. It is only 45cm in height and is adorned with golden cloths which the King Changes three times a year in a special ceremony.
The King and other members of Thai royal family no longer live in the palace but do visit for religious and state ceremonies from time to time. State events and receptions do take place within certain buildings but these are usually off bounds to the public. The present King Bhumibol (Rama IX) lives in Chitralada Palace which is near by. The King is revered in Thailand, the people love and worship him and it is a criminal offence to insult the King in any way or form. I believe a Swiss tourist was jailed a few years ago for insulting the King. There are pictures of him all over Thailand.
Phra Maha Monthian is a small complex of three buildings including Paisal Taksin Hall where the coronation ceremony takes place and another building to the side where the newly crowned monarch must sleep for his first night as King. There are various reception buildings dotted around the complex smaller temples housing the cremated remains of past royalty and statues of Naga’s(Snakes) mythical giants and smaller posing dancers all covered with gold leaf.
To do a visit to the palace any justice you should aim for about two to three hours to tour the complex as there are many statues and temples and courtyards to explore. There is always some restoration work going on at some place within the grounds. It is a very colourful and ornate place and there is a lot of ground to cover. Make sure you have drinking water with you as the humidity and heat in Bangkok can be terrible and it is very oppressive. A sun hat and sun block would be essential too.
Outside the palace there are hoards of touts trying to get you to go to other temples or Palaces telling you that the Palace is closed because it’s the Kings Birthday or that of the Queen, the Kings sister, one of the princess’s or Prince’s birthday and there are services going on and you can not enter till later in the afternoon. Even official tourist guides will tell you the same. What they actually do is take you in a tuk tuk to Jewellery shops where you will be ripped off unmercilessly. Never trust anyone around this site and just tell them no thanks and they will eventually leave you alone.

Visitors should be respectful and wear trousers and the shoulders should be covered and should you not adhere to the dress code then clothing can be hired at the entrance gates. Expect to do a lot of walking and make sure you have plenty of room on your camera chip.

Admission is 300 Bhats ( Approximately £5)
Opening times 08:30 to 16:30

Lebua at State Tower Bangkok.

Location.


The Lebua Hotel is an all suite hotel which is ideally centrally located on the Silom road in the business district near to the Chao Phraya River. Excellent views of the Chao Phraya River and Central Bangkok can be had from the hotel and the hotels distinctive gold Dome can be seen for miles around.



Getting there:

It is approximately 40 minutes by car from Bangkok’s new Suvarnabhumi International Airport. (BKK). It is 30 minutes by car from Bangkok’s original Dom Mueang airport (DMK) which mainly handles internal flights.

The nearest sky train station is Saphan Taksin which is approximately ten minute walk away which can whisk you off in air-conditioned comfort all over Bangkok. It is also near the Saphan Taksin pier where an abundance of water buses and water taxis ply the Chao Phraya River.

The hotel is near to the north and south expressways, although I would not recommend driving in Bangkok’s notorious traffic.

The hotel.

Lebua is a 5 star all suite hotel offering sumptuous accommodation with 121 one, two, and three bedroom suites. There are also 127 long term residence suites. They range from 66 to 266 Sq metres.

On entering the hotel lobby you are greeted by smiling, waiing doormen and porters who whisk your luggage away. Ice cold towels are offered to help you freshen up. All the staff greet you by giving you a Wai which is a sign of respect and also avoids the necessity of body contact. There are different kinds of wais reserved for different people. The more highly esteemed you are the bigger the Wai. Normally the Wai is composed of clasped hands palms together in front of the chest and accompanied by a slight bow. The more important you are the hands may be placed near the mouth or nose and the bow is more pronounced.

A greeter/ receptionist/hostess meets you and shows you through the ornate and opulent lobby where there is a grand piano with a pianist playing during the evening. Walking straight through to the lifts and up to your suite where you can relax while the booking in formalities are completed in the privacy and comfort of your suite. The hotels are not allowed to unlock the balcony patio doors without you signing a waiver taking responsibility should you have an accident. The hostess tells you about the facilities and how to operate various things in the room

We stayed in a one bedroom river view suite which was located over looking the Chao Phrayo River. The suites are located on the 51st floor up to the 59th floor. On entering the suite there is a nice relaxing sitting area which is tastefully decorated with arm chairs sofa and coffee table. Some tasteful artwork is on the wall. A wall mounted flat screen television is available in this area.

Along a small hallway area where the kitchen with tea and coffee making facilities a fridge and a stocked mini bar, a small cooker, sink and kitchen units containing pots and pans, tableware, glassware and cutlery.

Opposite is the bathroom which is beautifully decorated in marble. There is a large walk in shower and a lovely deep bath to relax in. Hair drier, shaving socket and mirror. The toiletries provided are by BVLGARI.

Continuing into the bedroom area there is another wall mounted television more cupboards containing a safe and wardrobes. A writing desk arm chairs and then out to the balcony area with fantastic views over the river and Bangkok. The bed was massive and extremely comfortable. The whole suite is tastefully decorated and to a high standard.

Facilities in the suite.
Ironing board.
Washing machine.
DVD player.

You are able to arrange for one of the hotels chefs to come to your suite to cook a meal for you. Also available are the usual housekeeping, room service, concierge and newspapers delivered daily. There is an on call doctor should you need one.

Hotel facilities.

Swimming pool.
Business centre.
Fitness centre.
Shops.


The restaurants and bars warrant a special mention as they are fabulous.
Sirocco at the Dome. Also the state dining room
Breeze plus a private dining room
Ocean 52 bar.
Mezzaluna.
Distil.
Café Mozu.
Sky Bar.

Sirocco.

This restaurant is on the 63 floor and is the highest alfresco restaurant in the world. It has fantastic views all over Bangkok. The menu on offer is diversely based on Mediterranean cuisine combined with Asian influences. Some dishes are a bit odd and there is a strict dress code which is applied here. There is an open bar where you can drink pre dinner and come to think of it post dinner cocktails. It is lit up and the colour changes through a spectrum of colours making it look magical. Of course booking is highly recommended as tables are quite sought after. It only seats 150 people but guests usually get priority.

Price wise it is very expensive as it is one of ‘THE’ places to be seen in Bangkok.
In my humble opinion it is well over priced for the menu on offer so essentially what you are paying for is the views of Bangkok.

Views of the golden dome and sweeping staircase are fantastic and can be seen for miles around. It is a truly romantic setting seeing the stars twinkling in the sky just above your head and it certainly is quite a unique place for dinner. A band plays on the terrace which wafts music through the air whilst you are dining. This restaurant has won a cavalcade of awards. Walking down the sweeping staircase you feel as if you are a star yourself because it feels you are on top of the world. It’s amazing and absolutely stunning. Have a look at the photos on their web site to get an idea of what it’s like, it’s breathtaking.

The state dining room is on the 67th floor within the dome itself. We did not visit here as it’s strictly corporate bookings only but it looked really beautiful as it has a magnificent panorama windows which overlook the city.


Breeze.

This restaurant’s main focus is seafood from around the world all cooked with an Asian influence. It is located on the 51st floor with an inside restaurant and outside terraces. The terraces are reached by walking over a glass lit bridge which changes colours. Underneath the bridge there is a large lotus filled pond housing Koi Carp.
It is phenomenal and has wonderful views. Ocean 52 serves some fantastic cocktails although the night we were there it was illegal to sell alcohol until after midnight as the elections were taking place. On the stroke of midnight we just had to make up for lost time…..

Mezzaluna.


An Italian restaurant on the 65th floor. I did not go into this restaurant so can not comment on it.

Distil bar

Distil bar is on the 64th floor where you can taste a multitude of whisky’s and other spirits from around the world. They have an extensive wine list here too. There are great views again over Bangkok from inside or outside on the terrace. Inside there is also an oyster bar.

The staff and facilities at this hotel are definitely 5* and the service is exceptional. I wouldn’t hesitate staying here again if and when I return to Bangkok. I absolutely loved it here. The staff in the restaurants spoke to you as if you were long lost friends and were extremely helpful. The standards are really very high and communications with the hotel prior to our arrival were prompt and very helpful indeed.

Things near to the hotel.

There are a few restaurants nearby and street vendors.
A shopping centre with various shops.
It is quite close to the Peninsular hotel where you can just pop across the river on a launch for afternoon tea or dinner.
The Lebua is on the Silom road which is one of the main shopping roads in Bangkok.
You are able to reach all areas of Bangkok quite easily either by foot the sky train, Tuk Tuk or river bus,


Overall impression.

The staff and facilities at this hotel are definitely 5* and the service is exceptional. I wouldn’t hesitate staying here again if and when I return to Bangkok. I absolutely loved it here. The staff in the hotel and restaurants spoke to you as if you were long lost friends and were extremely helpful. Their standards are really very high and communications with the hotel prior to our arrival were prompt and very helpfully answered.