Week Two in Hawaii: The Big Island - Kona

Back in 2007 we did the 15 mile waterfalls tour with them, so this time we thought we would enjoy the historical cliffs tour, which is about half the overall distance at 7 miles. Once on the Big Island, I called to make reservations, which were confirmed for later in the week on Thursday. As it would turn out, that was a real blessing.

When we arrived at 12:15p for our afternoon ride, we learned that it would be a private tour, just David and I along with our guide Darryl. A very nice young local man, we knew a lot about the northern Kohala coast and the sugar cane plantations that were the main reason for the development of this area of the island back in the early 1900's.

Once we were fitted for our safety gear, we were taken out to the test track to make sure we were capable to navigate the trails in our big Honda machines. While the other tour we took headed up the mountain in front of the main parking area at their meeting point, we headed out back immediately into cow pastures that were filled with big bovines that didn't seem to be appreciative when they were flushed out from the shade and out into the bright sun.

Our first stop was at the overlook at the 200' cliffs. It was very peaceful standing there, watching the waves crashing into the straight vertical walls. It was here that we had our first opportunity to get off the ATV's and stretch our legs as we learned more about the history of the island and the sugar industry.

Back on the ATV's, our next stop was at a path where we would be able to walk down roughly 20 or 30 feet to a rocky landing not quite to the bottom at the shore. From here we saw the old lighthouse at "the point" which was scheduled for demolition later this month due to erosion of the land surrounding it. Darryl also provided us with our choice of cool beverages - bottled water or tropical juice.

Darryl also told us about King Kamehameha's place of birth right here in Kohala, as well as his understanding of the ocean and how to defend his territory from this very point. It was also from here that he launched his boats when on the attack of the other islands.

With the history lesson completed and photos taken, we were ready to head in, taking another trail that would provide views of the lush forest. It was on this part of the trip that I had a minor altercation with my vehicle. Truth be known, I panicked on a pretty steep downhill curve. At the bottom, I felt like I was losing control of the ATV and I bailed out to the right.

Thankfully, my helmet protected my head . . . and my jeans protected my legs. Unfortunately, nothing on my arms and I got a good case of trail rash on my right arm. I also took quite a bump on my right side hip and thigh, resulting in a rather painful evening. With a whirlpool hot tub back at the resort, I was able to avoid having a longer recovery, which was important since in less than 48 hours, I would be on a plane back home to the mainland.

All is good, however. We had a great time and wouldn't hesitate to do another ATV tour in the future.

This particular tour was $129 per person for what is advertised as a 90 minute trail. This is one of the many activities on the Big Island that the timeshare companies offer discounts on (typically 20-25%). We picked up our tour vouchers via eBay seller HawaiiSavers, someone we've done a lot of business with in the past. We paid $105 total for two tours . . . you cannot beat that!

Kohala is about 90 minutes from Kailua-Kona. For more information on all of their tour offerings, check them out at http://www.atvoutfittershawaii.com.

Huggo's is located right on the water, literally OVER the water, in Kailua-Kona. The open air restaurant allows for the sea breeze to blow back your air, and the rolling waves to provide nature's music as you enjoy perhaps the best fine dining experience in Kona.

We made a 6:00pm dinner reservation for a Friday night. Most of the tables are along the open-air windows but we didn't leave it to chance so our reservation also included that request. When we arrived, they had our table ready in what I thought was just about the best place in the house.

As we settled in, the cocktail waitress arrived to take our drink orders. With booze and a blender awaiting our return back at the timeshare, we opted for ice water. Not to mention, I was still feeling a bit dehydrated from all of the sun over the past couple of days.

Dick was our server, assisted by Chase. They stopped by next to run through the menu and evening specials. With a few more minutes reviewing the offerings, we were ready to order . . . for me it was the end cut of prime rib, 10 oz cut for $34. David went with the evening special which was mongchong fish (also $34) that was encrusted with a pistachio coating and pan fried in olive oil. Both entrees were served with their house specialty garlic mashed potatoes (not sure what makes them a house specialty, but they were good).

As a started, David selected a cup of the clam chowder that not only had decent sized clam strips in it, but also a couple of baby shrimp. I enjoyed my ceasar's salad, which was also served with hot sour dough rolls.

Our dinners were prepared for outstanding presentation and taste. I was surprised at just how large a 10 oz cut of beef was. I shared with David so that we both could sample a little surf n turf. His fish was exquisite! I had never even heard of mongchong before, but it was good. A hearty solid white fish, its flavor was actually very delicate and not overpowering.

With a pass on desserts (sorry Cathy, I know that disappoints you) we were out of there for right at $100. Yes it is pricey . . . but the meal was outstanding, the view one of the best in Kona . . . and the ambiance of the rolling surf beneath your table unlike anything we have here in Wisconsin. So yes, we were happy with our evening out at Huggo’s!

They do have limited parking (free) in front of the restaurant. Depending on the time you arrive, however, you may need to park out on Alii Drive and walk a block or two. Because this is at the far end of the road along the waterfront, most people do walk to Huggo’s. Given my injury the day before, we didn't want to risk that I couldn't walk back the mile or so after dinner so we did take our car.

Huggo's is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. They also feature a Sunday Brunch (10a-1p). If you are looking for breakfast or perhaps a little less formal dining experience, try their sister restaurant Huggo's on the Rocks which is adjacent to their larger restaurant.

More information including menus and online reservation assistance may be found at: www.huggos.com. Also please note that while they have an address that says "Kahakai Road" they are really right on Alii Drive.

This restaurant is fast becoming a favorite for us, as we stopped in twice for dinner during our week in Kona. They are slightly off the beaten path in that they are not located down along Alii Drive, which is where you'll see the scads of tourists and cruise ship passengers walking up and down along the bay. (Kuakini Hwy is the road that essentially runs parallel to Alii Drive, about two blocks away.)

Big Island Grill is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner six days a week (6a-9p). . . closed on Sundays. They have a nice menu with decent choices from sandwiches to lunch plates and full dinner entrees. Breakfast features many standards including pancakes, french toast, breakfast meats and of course SPAM. You can have your eggs served with breakfast potatoes or rice, which is common through Hawaii.

As I said, we stopped in twice for dinner. David ordered the teriyaki beef over rice, while I enjoyed the shrimp tempura. With both enjoyed our meals so much that we did a repeat when we returned several nights later. While they came with steamed veggies, these menu items were more of a plate lunch than dinner entree, so salad (or soup) did not come with our meals. At $10.95 each, however, the value was outstanding and neither of us felt like we really needed a salad.

Both evenings we shared a dessert, mostly for the taste sensation. Their version of a hot fudge banana sundae was really very good, as was the flourless chocolate cake. We felt that both were large enough to share, especially the chocolate cake that came ala mode with a raspberry sauce.

Like many restaurants in the area, they do not have an on-premises alcohol license but it appeared that they permitted carry-ins as a couple of tables were self-serving wine and bottled beer.

Our full meals including soft drinks or iced tea and the dessert to split ran $45 including tax and trip. As I said, a very good value for a delicious meal!

They appear to be very popular with the locals and on Saturday night, there was about a 30 minute wait when we arrived at 7:00pm. While they do not accept reservations, you can get your meal to go if that is more convenient for you.

Next time we are on the Big Island, the Big Island Grill will be on our agenda for breakfast . . . especially since both of our former faves for breakfast scored disappointments on this trip (see separate review).

If you have read my other Kona, Hawaii journals you may have seen my reviews of Lava Java (Alii Drive in Kauila-Kona) and the Aloha Angel Cafe (Hwy11 south of Kona in Kainaliu). These two places have been mainstays on our dining list when in Kona and in fact, have been a much anticipated highlight!

Dating back to 2005, we have been stopping at the Java Lava for a great Sunday breakfast on our first morning in town especially since we usually arrive late on Saturday evening, and haven't had time to go to the Safeway for groceries and we wake up rather hungry the next morning.

When we arrived at Lava Java we didn't recognize the menu. It was approximately 10:00am and they had a rather limited "brunch" offering which was really pretty pitiful. No eggs over easy, only fancy omelets . . . no waffles . . . heck I don't even think I saw breakfast meats come to think of it. You may ask "Ok Von, what did they have?" and as poor as this is going to sound, the experience was so forgettable, I have forgotten!

We went for the car and headed up the hill to Denny's which had a long wait and slow service. Once we were seated after an approximately 20 minute wait, it took 15 minutes for David to get a coffee. About 15 minutes later we were ordering and nearly a full hour after that, we were finally eating. I don't know how they screw up breakfast, but the Grand Slam was more like the big whiff!

Thankfully we were right next to the Safeway so we stocked up on stuff for the condo including eggs, bacon, bread, cereal and milk. We were now set for the rest of our time in Kona, until check out on Saturday. Mmmmm Saturday . . . Alooooooha Angel baby!!!

Ok so we cruise on up Hwy 11 towards coffee farm row. As we enter the small village where the Aloha Theatre is, we notice the different "look" of the front of the building but couldn't really place what was out of place. It was the sign . . . the beautiful Aloha Angel Cafe sign was gone. And what was worse? So was the cafe itself! YIKES.

As we entered what used to be the entrance to the Aloha Angel Cafe, it was clear that this area was now only used as the entrance to the rest rooms. There used to be a large bakery case right at the door here . . . GONE. Replaced with a big door with a sign "EMPLOYEES ONLY!" What's with that?

We went back out onto the front sidewalk to see that where the other restaurant used to be (the one that used to be open only for supper) there were a couple of tables occupied and people appeared to be dining. I then saw the sign overhead at the sidewalk entrance: Aloha Theater Cafe.

As we entered, we noticed a couple of men who were working the place. The older of the two said he would be right with us, as he headed back into the kitchen. Given the amount of sweat on his brow, I assumed he was the cook.

The other younger guy took us to an open (and clean) table. I make the distinction because there were many open tables and only two that had been cleared or were ready for new guests. It took a while to get coffee for David but he was finally taken care of and we ordered breakfast. And what a boring breakfast it would be. None of those large fluffy blueberry pancakes like Cathy enjoyed with me back in April 2006 . . . no home baked muffins like Ellie enjoyed on our first trip there in December 2005 . . . and argh to my chagrin, fried eggs that looked like they had been micro-waved or something. They looked dried out and chewy to me. To go with his yucky looking eggs, David had SPAM which he said was also overcooked and dried out.

I ordered a ham & mushroom omelet which was more like scrambled eggs with a pile of stuff between the fold. The breakfast potatoes were overdone, approaching burnt but the toast was good :) Hurray for good toast! Never mind jelly however, as it took him some time to track down "the" basket of jellies that only had some brand X mixed fruit packets.

All and all most disappointing especially considering it was by far, the most expensive breakfast we had experienced in our two weeks in Hawaii. Before we left I asked the older guy if this was under new ownership and he said no, that they had to close the other side down because of some construction going on, on that side of their building. Mmmm I don't know - - I cannot believe this dump was owned by the same people, or perhaps more accurately, run by the same people as our little Aloha Angel. When I pressed further, he reaffirmed "nope, all the same as before."

I'm sorry NOT THE SAME AS BEFORE . . . this sucked and we will not be coming back I mumbled to David as we left. I miss the outstanding bakery items and the friendly ladies and young gals who used to work at the cafe. I also miss enjoying a good breakfast on our last day in Hawaii; the last meal we would have before heading out for our 14 hours of travel home to Wisconsin.

This was the ultimate bummer end to what was otherwise a great vacation.

Formerly the Wyndham Kona Hawaiian Village, this resort is just on the edge of the village of Kailua-Kona, and generally within walking distance of the restaurants and shops along the wonderful views of the bay. This is also the bay where many of the large cruise ships come in to disembark passengers 50 at a time to come ashore for luaus, circle island tours and shopping.

The resort does not provide much of a view of the water, although some do have a slight peek through trees to the water. It is on a rather steep incline, but I found the units towards the back, that are higher up have even less of a view. These are the newer buildings and have been built entirely too close to one another in my opinion.

We were in unit 55B which is a lower, and the lesser quality construction of this newer unit was noticeable as compared to my last visit here in unit 14B in the original section of the resort which was built by another developer before Fairfield/Wyndham acquired the property. We could hear the people in the unit above us sneezing; the floor construction was so thin.

One of the improvements since the acquisition however was the wonderful second pool. We spend several of our early mornings out there taking in the morning rays, since there were a lot of clouds that rolled in by midday (typically by 12:00noon). The pool is a nice size and has full sun for those who want that. There are very comfy chaise lounges as well as tables w/ umbrellas for those who want to be outside but limiting their exposure. There is also a typical eight to ten person whirlpool hot tub, which was a lifesaver the evening after my ATV accident.

The timeshare units in this resort are all two bedroom, accommodates six with two king beds and a queen size sleeper sofa. There is a full sized kitchen, which was well used during our stay. No dinette however, only a tall breakfast bar and the dining table w/chairs out on the lanai. I did a makeshift TV tray type dining set up using the two half coffee tables in the living room.

This Wyndham resorts provides guests with free WiFi in the units as well as free local telephone calls. They also have full sized stacked washers and dryers, which was really nice so that we could do our clothes after the first week over on Oahu. They also provide pool towels for those who don't want to travel with beach towels from the mainland.

As with all timeshare resorts, they will offer you the opportunity to learn about vacation ownership with them. For our two hours, we were given three $50 AmExp gift cards. We were happy with that and used them for a really nice dinner at Huggo’s plus some left over for another dinner out at Big Island Grill.

If you are looking for a timeshare condo that is in the middle of it all in Kona, this is an outstanding resort. If you prefer something outside of the tourist zone, consider Royal Sea Cliff or Mauna Loa also Wyndham resorts. To really get outside the hustle bustle of Kailua-Kona, look into Shell's timeshare resorts on the Big Island.