Five Star Attractions in Warsaw and its Surroundings

Wilanow Palace is another of Poland's treasures and is sometimes called 'the Polish Versailles.' The majestic building and gardens is situauted about ten kilometres out of the city in a peaceful suburb where many diplomats and business people live.

To find the palace take a bus (No 116 or 180) to the park entrance, tram or taxi. The park is open Wednesday to Monday from 9am until 4pm, until 6pm on Wed and 7pm on Sunday. Open from May 18 to September.

The former summer residence of King Jan III Sobieski, who defeated the Turks in the Battle of Vienna in 1683 is considered to be the most beautiful secular baroque building in Poland. Set in an extensive park, it has retained all the grandeur of a royal residence. The rooms of the palace were restored after the Second World War and furnished with the original inventory.

The ground floor of the main building is furnished with original items from the time of Jan III Sobieski and Marie Casimire d' Arquien Sobieska. In the Queen's bedroom the walls are covered with baroque fabric while in the king's there is a bed with a baldachin canopy made of Turkish fabrics won at Vienna.

In addition to the historic furniture and valuable porcelain, the Portrait Gallery is definitely worth visiting. Famous portraits painted by Polish artists from the 16th to 19th century are worth lingering over even though you won't see many smiling faces. They all look very serious and somewhat depressed. Look out for the large painting of the early 19th century owner of the palace, antique collector and archaelogist Stanislaw Kostka Potocki, by Jacques Louis David. This one is a stunner. Also here, coffin portraits are exhibited which add a bit of Gothic entertainment. I am rather fond of these.

In the south wing, the bathroom and apartments of Duchess Izabella Lubomirska survived while in the Grand Vestibule are decorations by Zug including classical furnishings and baroque allegories of the four elements.

There isn't any special time to visit the Palace as in the week the building and grounds are visited by schoolchildren and then at weekends visitors come from all over Poland. Sometimes when walking around the different rooms you will find yourself a little frustrated as tour groups will be occupying the room you want to visit so you have to count to ten and be patient. But it is worth it so remember that saying - patience is a virtue.

Open 09.30 - 18.30, Tuesday, Thursday. Friday 09.30 - 16.30, Sunday 10.30 - 17.30.

The last ticket is sold 90 minutes before closing.

Admission 12zl to 16zloty (£3 - £4) - Sunday Free.

Guided tours 90zloty (£22) - this is for a group but have to be booked in advance.

Parks and Gardens
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Whether as a mass of blossom in the spring or a shady retreat in the summer, whether golden in the autumn or snow-covered in winter, the Palace Park is enchanting in every season.

Founded in the 17th century in old French style, this geometric park of hedges and trees spans over two levels, the oldest part enclosing the palace. However, further on this French style merges into the English style with a section of Rose Garden which was designed by SB Zug, enclosing the complex on the south side.The entire ground occupies an area of 43 hectares and proves a wonderful setting for Wilanow Palace. Among the trees several buildings have been erected; one a neo-gothic castle which is in fact a pumping station, also a Chinese arbour, and figures of antique gods and goddesses and decorative vases in abundance. Beyond the monument, commemorating victory at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809 which was fought between Napoleon's army and the Russians, is a man made island that is reached by way of a Roman bridge.

Sometimes I find it very peaceful just to actually visit the gardens separately and not enter the Palace at all. You can spend at least two hours walking around all the gardens and in Autumn the colours of fallen leaves are beautiful as they blend with the shadows from the cool grey skies on to the lake.

Other attractions worth seeing in the grounds are;

Poster Museum
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The reputation of the art of Polish posters makes a visit to the Poster Museum in the former riding school almost obligatory. The posters are a vivid record of Poland's postwar history and the political role that posters assumed.

Last ticket is sold 30 minutes before closing. Admission from 6zloty to 9 zloty. Monday free.

Open Mon- 12-3.30pm - Tues-Sun 10am-3.30pm


Orangery
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The 18th century Orangery harbours an exhibition called the Polish Arts and Crafts from the Wilanow Historical Collection which is composed of 430 items gathered by Wilanow's owners. The items on display come from excellent workshops and they include Poland's largest collection of biscuit pottery which is fired but unglazed porcelain or, rarely, faience pottery, as well as objects made of china and gold, and clocks and products of Far Eastern origin. A fascinating collection and well worth seeing.

St.Anna's Church
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Surrounded by a fence depicting the stations of the Calvary Passion Road, this cross-shaped church was built in the years 1772-75 as a typical basillica in the neo-Renaissance style, but with a Baroque facade. In the presbytery the original floor has been preserved, made of Egyptian granite from a column in the Caesar Hadrian Temple of Peace in Rome. This was a gift of Pope Pius 1X to the Duchess Aleksandra Potocka. Other surviving features are the 18th century font and the 19th century wooden organ, along with sculptures, frescoes and paintings. Close by is a historical inn and forge adapted to serve as a restaurant called Kuznia and cafe Hetmanska.

Potocki Tomb
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This neo-Gothic tomb was built by A Potocki for his parents Stanislaw Kostka Potocki and Aleksandra Potocka in the years 1834-36. It was designed by Enrico Marconi and is decorated with the figures of lions and the coats of arms of two families, the Potocki and the Lubomirski. I know some people find visiting tombs a bit morbid but I actually like this neo-gothic style and it seems in Warsaw there are a lot of representations of the style not only in Wilanow but in other parks and cemetries.

Admission from 3 zloty to 5 zloty but free on Thursday. Opening times are the same as the Palace and Museum.

Conclusion
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The Palace and whole park complex is one of great beauty and historical interest. I am always amazed with the many beautiful pieces of architectue and lavish parks and gardens Warsaw has to offer. As I have stated above this is ten kilometres out of the city and a 30 minute journey by bus so some people might choose to leave a visit out of their itinerary if only coming for a weekend but it really is worth a trip out of the city centre especially in Spring or Autumn when the colours of the gardens are at their most dramatic.

Located on the Vistula scarp in 1974, this building was a scientific testing station and educational centre of the Polish Academy of Science. The Botanical Garden has been open to the public since 1990 and houses a collection of 7,000 species across an area of 16 hectares, protecting 150 endangered species and plants under conservation law.

I first visited the Botanical Garden about 4 years ago as I was visiting Warsaw to see my son and daughter-in-law. It is a good 45 minutes out of the city and in an area that always remind me of Old Poland - a little old fashioned in a country sort of way. I was delighted to take my mother in-law here for a visit last week as she has very 'green fingers' and adores plants.

To reach the Botanical Garden you need to catch a 139 bus from the city centre to 'Park Kultury'. The gardens are a 15 minute walk away through the park.

The arboretum is a fine place to spend an hour or so. There are around 1,300 species of tree, ornamental trees and shrubs. Trees are split up into three main sections; the conifer section is particular interesting especially the dwarf conifers and slow growing types. Then there is a section growing Ericaceous and Magnoliaceae plants, with evergreen rhododendrons and beautiful azaleas with over 3,000 species of cultivated and decorative plant, roses, perennials and 200 old apple trees raised in Poland from the 17th century until 1939.

The country's largest Iridaceae plant collection, 450 species may be found here too. Some of the Iris collection are really beautiful to look at and make up one of the leading collections in Poland. Colours of the Yellow Flag Iris, the Siberian Iris, Stool Iris and Grass Iris are striking in colour and so perfect in structure. I can see why artists visit the gardens to study these plants for drawing exercises.

Our favourite and most interesting part of the tour of the gardens was the visit to the greenhouses which cover 3,500 metres including the new greenhouse that was constructed in 2003 to host its rich collection of exotic ferns and succulents. The atmosphere in all the green houses was one of great humidity and in one butterflies were flying around which was a rare treat.

We were both very pleased to see a lot of plants from Portugal like bougainvileas, camellias and fuchsias as well as some giant cacti which pleased my mother-in-law immensely as when she lived in Portugal she planted her own cactus garden from the smallest of plants which grew to some enormous heights. The only down side of this tour was that the lady sat at the entrance door was a bit grumpy and told us off for stepping on the tiled floor. I can only assume that she had just mopped the floor and we had come in from the surrounding areas with muddy feet.

From the beginning of May to the middle of September the Botanical garden organises events including painting and photo exhibitions in the Fangora Palace, and concerts on Sundays as part of the Flowers in Music festival.

Like I mentioned at the beginning the gardens are outside Warsaw in Powsin. There are other recreational facilities here in the town such as swimming pools, playgrounds and tennis courts so you could make a day of it if you chose to.

There is a cafe serving food such as sausages, bigos and other Polish dishes. These are served on picnic plates with plastic knives and forks and beer is also served as well as soft drinks in plastic cups. Various tables are dotted around under shady trees. The food is cheap and cheerful but definitely not haute cuisine.

From 1st July to the end of October the gardens and greenhouses are open to the public every day from 10.00 to 18.00 hours.

Tickets cost 6 zloty which is just over a pound and discounted tickets cost 4 zloty which is just under a pound. Children under the age of 6 years go free.

Guided tours are available - groups of 20 people or more. Tickets work out at 9zloty each person.

Animals are not permitted and if you wish to take a car - parking costs 6zloty.

Definitely some where you can feel at ease with nature and worth a small trip out of the city.

Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the city's prize possession, the incomparable Lazienki Park. This glorious 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares is one of the jewels in Poland's crown and which might explain why half of Warsaw chooses to spend it's Summer Sunday's here. With the park being so large it never gives the impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest days you will always be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere.

Lazienki - meaning baths, takes its name from the Palace on the Water, originally built in the 17th century as a bath house. Bought by the last king of Poland, Stanislaw August Poniatowski, in 1772, the baths were converted into a private residence and the grounds formally laid out as a private garden by Karol Schultz. Today dotted with palaces and mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and theatres, there is much to see in Lazienki and to make the best of it you should try to spend a whole day there.

How to Find The Park
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Any number of buses stop in front of the park's three main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos. 108, 116, 119 and 166. From the city centre however perhaps the easiest way of reaching Lazienki is to take a tram from centrum to Pl. Uni Lubejskej, and walk about 100 metres along Bagatela to the park's southern entrance, in front of the Belvedere Palace.

Around the Park
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If you enter the park through any of the entrances on Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or not through some hilly paths, set with tall trees, at the vast artificial lake in the park's centre, straddled by the magnificent Palace on the Water. In doing so, however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so I usually try to circumnavigate the park instead.

The Monument to Frederick Chopin
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My first port of call is the Chopin monument, an art nouveau monument sculpted in 1908 and set at the side of a small pond. Chopin is depicted here in the park, sheltering from the sun under the branches of a tree. I found the monument quite dominating and although art nouveau, I must say that I didn't really take to the sculpture. The wistful, boyish Chopin looked the part but the tree he was sat at the side of is cumbersome and quite ugly. The monument was placed in the park in 1926 but during the Second World War was completely destroyed but after a successful reconstruction based on old models and photographs it was returned to its miraculously - saved plinth in 1958. From spring until autumn the stage by the monument hosts concerts of Chopin's music.

Belvedere Palace
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Next stop was the Belvedere Palace which was the residence of the Polish president from 1918 to 1995 (it is used today to house visiting foreign heads of state). The palace was built in 1694 but thoroughly re-modelled in 1818. Again I was a little disappointed as most of the building is off limits. However, there is a small exhibition open at weekends during the summer when the president is not visiting. Looking at the palace face on, it is a gem of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns. A truly amazing building.

Bialy Domek (The White Maisonette)
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Less grand but equally impressive is the little white house. This is a summer house constructed from 1774 and 1777 in the style of an Italian villa resembling an inkstand, this was erected for the King to entertain his mistresses. The house was home to Louis XV111 King of France, for the whole of his time in Poland in 1801. This house is open to the public and it displays a fine collection of period furniture and decorations.

The house is open Tuesday to Sunday from 0900 hours until 1600 hours. Last entrance is 60 minutes before closing and costs from 3zl - 5zl (approx £1).

Stara Pomaranczarnia (Old Orangery)
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A few steps away is the impressive Old Orangery which is picturesquely situated at the foot of the scarp. The southern wing of this 18th century orangery holds a collection of trees while the eastern wing is home of one of the very few surviving court theatres in the world. Stanislawowski Theatre was built from 1774-1777 and it is still used today to host chamber concerts, as well as being a popular wedding venue for Warsaw's wealthy. The Old Orangery also hosts the gallery of Polish Sculpture with it's collection of antique marble and gypsum sculptures collected by Stanislaus Augustus Poniatowski. Although an interesting collection I found these sculptures a little drab but the actual theatre is a wonderful structure and really worth a visit.

Nowa Oranzeria (New Orangery)
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At this point of my tour of the gardens I was dying to show off to my mother-in-law the Palace on the Water but thought I would leave that until the very last and instead headed south towards the New Orangery. This orangery is built in cast iron and glass and it was designed by Jozef Orlowski and it opened in 1861. Inside is a vast array of tropical vegetation and Warsaw's most expensive restaurant, the Belvedere. The venue is very romantic in decor and offers a candlelit atmosphere. I personally have not eaten in this establishment but it has a very good reputation.

Teatr na Wyspie (Theatre on the Island)
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Crossing the tail of the Serpentine lake, I followed the path that leads along the embankment to the Amphitheatre also known as the Theatre on the Island. It was built in 1790, the rounded auditorium was modelled on antique theatres, with decorations imitating the ruins of the Temple of Jupiter in Baalbeck in Syria. The stage and auditorium are separated by water, allowing boats to be moored for performances. The theatre hosts productions throughout the Summer, though unless you fancy seeing Henry V in Polish these will hold little interest for visitors. However, the setting alone is worthy of admiration and it is another opportunity to use the camera.

Palac Na Wodzie (Palace on the Water)
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Now to my favourite stop on my tour - the Palace on the Water. In medieval times this area was covered with forest and belonged to the Dukes of Mazovia who used it as a hunting ground for wild ox (now extinct) which inhabited the woods but in 1674 it was taken over by Marshall Lubomirski who decided to change its character. The Dutch architect Tylman van Gameren designed the hermitage with the bathroom (lazienka) which gave the park its name. In the years 1772-93 it was re-modelled as a summer house for the Kings of Poland and in this way the Palace on the Water was created. Today it is a museum and almost all of the palace can be visited, including the main reception room, Solomon's Hall, decorated in the most extravagant of baroque styles. Many of the King's personal rooms are also open to the public, set in their original context.

For visitors to get the best out of the palace I recommend taking one of the excellent guided tours which are usually available in English twice a day.

Refreshments
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In UK we would probably take a picnic to the park but it seems that it isn't acceptable to put down a blanket and open a picnic basket on the well manicured lawns. There are kiosks and cafes all over the park but they do charge extortionate prices so take plenty of liquid. There is a restaurant serving soups, salads and such like though yet again at unacceptable prices. If you do fancy a coffee then I suggest you go to the Amphitheatre Cafe just behind the amphitheatre. Service is a bit slow but a cup of coffee and a slice of apple pie will not break the bank.

My Conclusion
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I have only visited Lazienki Park once at a weekend and found the park very busy. I usually visit during the week and I would recommend this time to visit as it is more peaceful and relaxing. The park itself is very grand and the most beautiful I have ever visited. Walking through the many paths and gardens you really do experience a sense of a lost romantic grandeur. The architecture is amazing and I think many visitors will be astonished to find such beauty in a city that sometimes I call Gotham City because of it's sky high buildings. When you visit Warsaw make Lazienki the first stop. You won't regret it.

Another trip outside the city to show my mother-in-law the great outdoors.

Pultusk is situated about 60 kilometres from Warsaw heading towards the Mazury Lakes. I approached the town from Legionowo by car. This is really quite a beautiful town close to nature. Pultusk lies close to the Narew river within the Nawianski National Park and the river forks into two arms surrounding the old town of Pultusk.

Bridges, boulevards, canoes and yachts give Pultusk a Venetianesque character, parts of preserved defensive walls adding medieval character. By canoeing or yachting along the arms of the river you can reach the Augostow Lakes. Also accessible and worth a viewing are the edges of the Biala woodland areas. Here you really are in the outdoors and you can go cycling, walking or horse-riding. I love horse riding and don't have the time or motivation to go too often with living in the city so it was good for my soul to take a trip through the woods on horseback while my mother -in-law had a look around the castle.

The Kurpie region of Poland is known for its traditions; costume, dances, architecture and way of life. The woodland is an epicentre of the Kurpie region's cultural heritage. One thousand year old Pultusk, with its 16th century Renaissance castle, became a meeting place for Polish ex-pats and was called Polonia. In 1989, the House of Polonia was opened in the castle. The castle is now open to the public and its wide halls have been restored and now house an art gallery which my mother-in-law spent most of the afternoon in and really enjoyed the artwork. There is also a concert hall which is sometimes used for conferences..

Folk music is played for guests visiting the castle and if you are feeling a little peckish why not drop in the Dom Polonia Hotel especially if you like Polish cuisine. My mother-in-law really enjoyed her crayfish soup. While in the vicinity why not choose some Pultusk produce like the famous pottery with a shiny red glaze or a patterned carpet or even golden honey from Biala Woods.

All roads in the town lead to the Rynek (Market Square), one of the longest in Europe at 400 metres long and 40 metres wide, which in the 19th century was divided into separate stripe-shaped places of trade. Today the market is surrounded by townhouses yet in the very centre is a town hall with a clock tower, a seat to the municipal authorities and historical museum.

The name of the town Pultusk was carved on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris by order of Napoleon who was pleased with his military campaign of 1806, near Pultusk.

The churches of Pultusk formed the backdrop of W Gomulicki's novel - The Memories of the Navy Blue Uniform which describes the authors youth and schooldays in the town. Gomulicki's school was situated at the Jesuit monastery.

The most visited church is the Gothic Church of Bazylika Zwiastowania with its unique Renaissance stuccoes, vaulted ceiling and a myriad of gold icons and ornamentation.

I knew very little about this 11th century town in Masovia. I am pleased that I took the time to travel outside Warsaw because this is one of the prettiest towns I have seen in this region. Not only is the architecture unusual but the customs and the language of the Polish people who live here is quite different and really interesting. I hope the town stays this way and is only ever invaded by Warsovians at weekends.

Warsaw's surroundings are packed with interesting places to visit and you don't have to travel too far before you come across a beauty spot or a historical monument. Kampinoska woodlands are about 40 kilometres from the city centre. To reach the woods you have to travel through Kampinos and Leszno. Buses do travel to the woodlands from the city and the bus station is approximately 1 kilometre from the woodlands.

The landscape is very beautiful with its mixture of dense forest, soggy marshes and delightful sand dunes. The fragrance from pine trees is evocative and the giant oaks are a formidable sight. Surrounding the woods on all sides are summer houses belonging to city dwellers. Most houses are made from timber with very long slanted roofs touching the ground. I have always been intrigued by the style of these roofs - my guess is that the angle helps the thick snow to slide down to the ground in winter reliving the structure of the roof from the heavy weight of the snow.

Also worthy of attention besides the woodlands themselves, are the manor houses found in Kampinos, once a base for Polish kings such as John III Sobieski or Stanislaus Augustus Poniatowski when they went hunting in the forests.

In the village of Kampinos is an 18th century timber church with two towers and a 19th century brick manor. It was here within the classical manor house that the rebel leader of the January Uprising had his headquarters.The views of the woodlands are very beautiful and stretch out and away from the terrace.

In Granica village an early 20th century manor house is located, seat of the Kampinoski National Park Museum with its rich collections of fauna and flora samples. Kampinoska woodlands is also a habitat for boars, deer, beavers, moose, cranes, black storks and corncrakes. Because of the many natural habitats elk was reintroduced into the forest in 1951 and another reintroduction of lynx began in 1992. The museum organises guided tours into the woodlands to watch animal life go by and enjoy campfire talks. Horse riding through the woods is very popular and it is a great location for picking mushrooms in September and October, hunting, walking, cycling and fishing. There are extensive trails for walking and cycling and maps can be purchased from bookstores in Warsaw. From experience it is very easy to get lost in the woods so I suggest visitors stick to the trails.

The woodland environment is visited by schools from Warsaw and Lod where children can learn about environmental issues.

Not far away from the museum is the Ethnographic Outdoor Museum, set in a thatched roof house.

In the area of Tulowice on the outskirts of the woodlands, a painter, Nowak-Zemplinski, set about rebuilding an old manor in the 1980s. The manor was originally built at the end of the 18th century and it retains an old carriage shed with a collection of old carriages, all typical of Mazovia and Malopolska regions.

It's incredible to think that such a wonderful area is only a short drive from the capital city. It is a rare treat to see such an extensive and diverse landscape existing side by side with a busy metropolis.