The City of the Delicate Buddha

An almost underground characteristic of Luang Prabang is its being amidst the oldest cities in Southeast Asia; "almost underground" because the city was rebuilt following its destruction in the late nineteenth century.

Muang Sua

During the seventh century, Luang Prabang was called Muang Sua and was under the control of one of the "zhao," small city-states based in southern Yunnan. At certain stage, a Tai prince called Khun Lo managed to take the city and founded the first local dynasty. This event is deep within Laotian mythology, as the father of that prince - Khun Borom - is associated with the Laotian world's creation legend. He is said to have arrived from Heaven; some scholars translate that as" China."

In the year 737, six small kingdoms ("zhao") united into the Kingdom of Nanzhao with the blessing of the Chinese Tang Dynsty, with a capital city near modern Dali in Yunnan, north of Xishuangbanna. The people of this kingdom practiced Theravada Buddhism.

In 750, the kingdom rebelled against the Tang and defeated the Chinese army twice. After that they began a rapid expansion into modern Myanmar, northern Laos and Thailand. Later, in 829, even Chengdu – to the north – was taken. The Tang retaliated and until 873, Nanzhao lost all of Sichuan (where Chengdu is). In 902 the Nanzhao Dynasty lost power and – following three short lived dynasties, the Kingdom of Dali was established in 937.

Thus, during the eight century, Luang Prabang was under complete control of Nanzhao, but the decline of that kingdom enabled the Khmer to expand northwards. King Indravarman I expanded the Khmer empire as north as modern Xishuangbanna (Sipsong Panna in Thai, literally "The Kingdom of the 12000 Paddy Fields" - the cradle of modern Thai people) during the period of his reign (877-889). The Khmer renamed modern Luang Prabang as Xieng Dong Xieng Thong - a name that can be heard even now.

In the typical complexity of Southeast Asian history, the city was for a while under the rule of a local warlord named Khun Chuang during the 12th century, when it became known as the Kingdom of Sri Sattanak, and Theravada Buddhism exchanged by the Mahayana type. Later, the town experienced a brief period of Khmer suzerainty under Jayavarman VII from 1185 to 1191, in which Theravada Buddhism was returned to its traditional place.

The thirteenth century brought dramatic changes. The Mongols destroyed Nanzhao in 1253 and made a weak alliance with the Siamese Kingdom of Sukhothai. The last threw out the Khmer and the Cham from Laos; during this period, Muang Sua was under the rule of Mongol warriors, which conquered from there Dai Viet (modern Vietnam) for a short while.

The Mongols were very unpopular in Muang Sua. Fa Ngieo - a local Lao prince - sent in 1330 his two sons to a Buddhist monastery beyond the Mongol lands. In 1335, the brothers were kidnapped and taken to Angkor, which was under Mongol suzerainty since 1285. Fa Ngum, the younger brother, married one of Angkor's king daughters and in 1349 left Angkor with a large army. He conquered from the Mongols the territories of modern Laos, including Muang Sua.

In 1354 he was crowned king of the Lan Xang Kingdom at Vientiane. The complete name was Lan Xang Hom Khao, or literally "The Kingdom of a Million Elephants and a White Parasol." The kingdom followed the borders of modern Laos plus the Isaan region of modern Thailand. He made Muang Sua his capital.

Later, the city was renamed Luang Prabang in honor of a power talisman he got from Angkor's king (see the "Emerald Buddha and the Phra Bang" entry in this journal).

In the late sixteenth century, the kingdom's capital was moved to Vientiane, but the kingdom remained in this shape for a long time until it split in 1707 into three principalities: Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Champasak. All of them became Ayutthaya’s vassal states.

Following the split, Luang Prabang became the capital of the northern principality. In 1893, the French annexed the three principalities as part of French Indochina, until 1945 when the Kingdom of Laos was created. During this period, the king stayed formally in power, though formally the government was in French hands.

From 1945, Luang Prabang was the capital of the Kingdom of Laos, until the Communist Revolution of 1975, when Vientiane became the Laotian capital.

This complex history illustrates the fact that Laos was an important crossroads in Southeast Asia - parts of the Southern Silk Road crossed it - and thus of interest for every empire within the area. For the modern Marco Polo crossing it, this rich history and culture mean seeing a surprisingly cosmopolite tiny town: French food with Vietnamese spices and sharply slanted Laotian roofs.

What are the best souvenirs from Luang Prabang? How to pay for them? What to eat during the shopping?

Laotian Silk

Why Laotian Silk? Simply, most of the world’s silk production has been industrialized. Laos is one of the few places were the reeling, coloring and spinning is entirely hand-made; thus despite having a more unrefined look, it makes a very special gift. The more elaborate designs are produced at a rate of a few centimeters per day.

Each area and family produces a unique product based on traditional designs; the traveler can choose shiny or matte, thick or thin. The process begins by feeding silk worms four times a day with white mulberry fresh leaves for four weeks, and then the worms produce their cocoon. After being boiled in water, the silk is extracted through a special process which includes alkaline baths. Boiling the resulting threads in water allows achieving the desired softness. About five thousand worms are used in the production of one kilogram of silk. In Laos, the subsequent spinning, dyeing and weaving are done manually. A point to keep in mind is that exist several types of threads; the finest is produced only the silk from the cocoon’s interior and is called Royal Silk. Uneven threads are produced using the whole cocoon.

A related product is Saa paper. Produced of mulberry tree at the same villages producing silk, it is now used in the production of fancy notebooks that make good gifts.

Silk products can be easily acquired in Luang Prabang and Vientiane. However, a more exciting option is visiting one of the villages producing the silky gold. One of them is named Ban Xieng Lek; located five kilometers from downtown Luang Prabang, it can be reached with a tuk-tuk or just by walking to the Northern Bus Station and turning left right after it, the village is on the Mekong riverside. Weaving looms, pagodas and silk shops welcome the visitor there. An advantage of this approach, is that the shopper can be sure all the silk being sold is Laotian. Ban Phanom is another village offering a similar deal; it is near the airport and can be reached with a tuk-tuk.

Prices vary with quality, thus it is recommended to arrive with at least an idea of what every type of silk looks like. The downtown shops are perfect for this. Simple scarves can be bought for around ten dollars, while more elaborated items can cost substantially more.

Money

I have commented in the past about unexpected events in Laos while attempting to exchange money; remembering a few facts would ensure a pleasant stay.

With an exchange rate of around 10000 kip to the dollar, moving around with dollar notes is rather useless: a coffee with fried buns at the market costs about a quarter dollar; a basic lunch around half dollar. Thai baths are somewhat more convenient, but not much more. The best is to move around with Lao kip notes. These can be exchanged at all local banks at fair rates; do not exchange at market stalls, it is illegal and people got in troubles in the past (the stall owners are punished if caught).

If leaving Laos, don’t take kip notes since they cannot be exchanged. Nonetheless, they make colorful souvenirs. If traveling to Vietnam, the kip can be exchanged into Vietnamese dong at the border crossings. However, the exchange rate is not very good; the best advice is to get rid of the kip notes and get enough dong for a meal or two until the next city is reached. There, all banks would exchange dollars and Thai baht notes into Vietnamese dong.

Luckily, Luang Prabang features now ATMs. Moreover, some banks may give money against a credit card (for an up to 4% commission!), but if traveling overland, the best is entering Laos with enough cash. In an emergency, money can be sent through Western Union.

Eating in Luang Prabang

An international attraction, Luang Prabang features many restaurants and cafes catering for all tastes. As elsewhere in Laos, French food is recommendable and offered at unparalleled prices.

Yet, I find it disturbing traveling so far to end having dinner at a western – or quasi-western – restaurant. Thus, here are some of the best Laotian dishes to be found in Luang Prabang.

Laotian Sausages

Similar to the Thai fermented sausages described in my Phrae journal, the Laotian variation is made of pork – as the Thai - or water buffalo. Causing at first a mild twinge to the taste buds, this dish may take a while to get used to but it is a staple of the local cuisine and completely safe. Unlike similar western products, these sausages are always extra-fresh; they are consumed within a week from their production.

Tcheo Bong

This is a popular creamy and spicy sauce typical of the area; ask for it at the restaurants and food stalls. Its main ingredients are pepper, garlic, ginger, honey, beef rind and shrimps.

Mok Pa For

This dish consists of a steamed fish within a banana leaf: it includes also eggs, coriander, coconut milk and shallots. Probably this is the less spicy dish in the entire Laotian cuisine. It makes a superb snack while watching a sunset over the river.

Green Papaya Salad

This is one of the most distinctive dishes of the Lao and Thai cuisines. Hearing the popularized English name may be misleading; fruits in Thailand are often eaten unripe adding thus a sour taste to the dish instead of a sweet one. In fact, the local name means "sour pounded."

Sour, shredded, unripe papaya is mixed with a variety of additional ingredients. The last can change enormously, but the most common ones are peanuts and green beans; tomatoes and small fresh water crabs are also popular. In the Laotian version, small, roundish eggplants may also appear. Lime and chilies are the main spices added. The chilies play here an important role, creating an incredibly hot salad.

More often than not, this is a stand alone dish, eaten with no additions, though sometimes sticky rice is added. A fork and a spoon are used for eating it. These two are the most popular cutlery used with Lao and Thai dishes and are used differently than in the west. The fork is used for putting food in the spoon, which is used for carrying it into the mouth. A fork is never put in contact with the mouth. Knives – being potential weapons – are never put on the table.

Curries and Stews

Curries and stews are a main part of the local cuisine; I use the word "stew" here for curries that do not contain coconut milk. The division may seem arbitrary, but the difference in the texture and taste of the dishes justifies it.

In the market shops offering these dishes, a variety of big bowls containing the curry or the stew is available and the customer can choose among them. Then the curry is served with sticky rice and other ingredients (fresh mint leaves, cabbage and eggs are popular additions). The very obvious stars (red, green and yellow curries), which are easily recognizable by their color and prominent location among the other bowls are, are excellent options for a dinner. However, looking for local specialties is sometimes worth the effort. This is the case in Luang Prabang, where Ô-Lam stew is one of the pinnacles of the local cuisine. This stew is prepared with the small eggplants typical of Southeast Asia, beef, pork rind and fish brine. Onions, garlic and chilies are the main spices used for it. Would I travel especially to Luang Prabang for having it for my next dinner? Definitely yes.

Sleeping in Luang Prabang

I did name one of my journals as The City of One Million Guesthouses; the only reason I did not the same with Luang Prabang was to allow differentiating between them. It seems that every building which is not dedicated to administration or religious purposes is a guesthouse, an hotel, or at least rents rooms. The best recommendation for those attempting to see the traditional Luang Prabang is to choose an hotel or guesthouse in the outskirts. In any case the town is tiny and walking to the peninsula area – downtown – is easy.

Luang Prabang’s history is deeply connected to two Buddha figures widely considered to be power talismans. Over time, one reached Bangkok, while the other stayed here and gave to the city its name.

The Emerald Buddha

The Emerald Buddha is a 45cm tall green jade image that has become the talisman of the Chakri Dynasty in Thailand. It is stored at the Wat Phra Kaew temple within the Bangkok Grand Palace and can be easily visited. Its tiny size - emphasized by its position high above the temple's floor - hides an intriguing story that seems to be the inspiration for the Indiana Jones adventures.

The Legend

According to legend, the image was created around 300BE (Buddhist Era - 43BC), in There Phra Nakasen in Patalibutr (modern Patna), India and then it was moved to Sri Lanka as a protective move due to local wars. From here there are at least two versions explaining its arrival to South East Asia. One claims that King Bhukarm requested it to be returned, but the sampan was hit by a monsoon rain and swept ashore to Cambodia, where it was enshrined first at Inthapath (Angkor Wat), and later at Sri Ayutthaya, Lawo and Kampangpetch respectively. The second version claims it was being shipped to Burma (457AC) together with Buddhist scriptures requested by King Anuruth; again, the sampan ended up in Cambodia.

The History

In 1390, King Mahabhrom of Chiang Rai took it from Kampangpetch and hided it inside a stuppa. Only in 1434 it was revealed after the stuppa was split open by a thunderbolt; the jade was thought to be emerald and the image modern name was coined. Mueng Komp, then Governor of Chiang Rai, reported the finding to King Fang Sam Nae of Chiang Mai who sent an elephant procession to bring it to his capital. However, the elephants brought the figurine to Lampang, where it stayed for thirty-two years. Afterwards, in 1468, it was finally moved to Chiang Mai, the capital of the Lanna Kingdom.

Eighty-five years later (1552), Laotian invaders took it from there to Luang Prabang, then the capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom, and later, in 1564, to Vientiane, the new Laotian capital.

When the Thai King Taksin declared war against the Laotians 200 years later, the image was captured and taken to Thonburi, then the Thai capital, by the General Chakri, who became Rama I, the founder of the actual Chakri Dynasty. From 1779 until 1784 it was kept in Thonburi. Then, the image was moved to the Wat Phra Kaew temple within the Grand Palace of the new capital across the river: Bangkok. Since then it has not been moved.

However, an Emerald Buddha replica can be enjoyed at Wat Mai (see the entry on Wats in this journal) while the Prabang is brought to the temple at the Lao New Year (in April) for three days.

But Luang Prabang has more than a replica to offer.

Phra Bang

The Phra Bang (literally "Delicate Buddha"), is Laos’ talisman. A bronze cast, gold covered, standing Buddha (slightly over eighty centimeters tall) holds his hands facing forward and is considered to be the country’s protector.

Similarly to the Emerald Buddha, it is believed to have been cast in Sri Lanka between the 1st and 9th century. It arrived at Laos in 1353 from Angkor (the image features Khmer characteristics), in an attempt of the Khmer to spread Buddhism in the new Kingdom of Lan Xang and to give legitimacy to the first king – Fa Ngum, who was the son-in-law of the Khmer king. The city of Luang Prabang – Lan Xang’s capital for a long time - was later named after the image. A talisman of power, the Phra Bang has been is the symbol of the right to rule Laos.

In 1545 it was taken to Vientiane, as this city was being prepared as the kingdom’s next capital. Pha That Luang (Holy Stuppa of the City) in Vientiane is even now one of the most impressive temples in Southeast Asia; it was built especially for keeping the Phra Bang.

After the Siamese invaded Luang Prabang in 1778 and took the Phra Bang to Bangkok, political problems in Siam were attributed to it and in 1782 it was returned to the Laotians. In 1828 the Siamese captured it again when Vientiane was sacked, but they returned it in 1867 after political upheavals. Since then it is stored in Luang Prabang.

At the Pimay - Lao New Year - the Phra Bang is brought to Wat Mai in a procession and is displayed at a special shrine within it. During the rest of the year is within the Hop Phra Bang, a special temple within the Royal Palace ground, next to Phou Si Mount in downtown. The palace dates from 1940 and was in use until the 1975 revolution.

The presence of this talisman in the city and the history related to it, transform Luang Prabang into the religious center of Laos. In no other place, visiting the temples is so essential for understanding the place and its people.

Despite the commercialization of the town – the result of being recognized as a World Heritage Site – Luang Prabang’s downtown area is special by every imaginable category.

Its location on a tiny peninsula trapped between two rivers forced it to be built in a significantly more dense fashion than any other Laotian city. It looks very Lao in style, yet it is different. Moreover, unexpectedly, the first impression of the traveler is that the town is rather new. Since the town was badly damaged at the end of the 19th century, most of the buildings date back to the beginning of the 20th century. They display a blend of French Colonial and traditional Laotian styles, the last visible especially in the temples. The last can be appreciated especially in the gable roofs and verandas, besides playing an important role in the decoration of the buildings.

Shop Houses

As in most of Southeast Asia, shop houses are very popular in Luang Prabang. These are two or three storey structures, where the entrance level is dedicated to commercial activity, while the upper floors are used as the living quarters of the owners. Most of the buildings on the main road that are not dedicated to administrative or religious tasks enter this category.

Xieng Keo Palace

The Grand Luang Prabang Hotel is the name of what used to be the Xieng Keo Palace - the former residence of Prince Phetsarath – the Laotian Prime Minister before the Communist Revolution. The structure blends Laotian and French Colonial characteristics.

Markets

No other Laotian city features so many traditional markets so close to each other. They allow tasting original Lao food, seeing the local lifestyle and – of course – buying the same knickknacks offered at near souvenir shops, only cheaper. "Talaat" is the Laotian word for market and one which is definitely worth memorizing (especially since it works also in Thailand: the best "two-for-the-price-of-one" offer in the world).

Silk products, T-shirts imprinted in Laos or featuring themes related to the local culture and local clothes (take note traditional Laotian sarongs are black, all the other designs are for the sake of tourists) are the most popular items.

Phou Si Market

Located next to the hill at the very center of town, this is the largest market; it includes covered and open areas. These means it includes a bit of everything: food, drinks, clothes, and many other products.

Moreover, location and size have transformed it into the best place for a breakfast in town. As I have already commented, Laotian coffee is extraordinary and can be found in the markets only during the morning hours.

Chinese Market

South of downtown – along the road to Vientiane – is the Chinese Market. The source of the name is clear once the market is reached: Chinese vendors sell merchandise they brought from China. If traveling northwards from Luang Prabang by bus, the traveler would meet the same merchants in their way to Xishuangbanna. Despite being colorful, the place lacks any connection with the local culture.

Darat Market

By far the most modern shopping mall in town, this is the place for finding upmarket souvenirs: silk, saa paper products and of course, the silver jewelry Laos is so famous for.

Caterer’s Market

Operating in the late afternoon, this market specializes in Laotian food and even offers takeaways for most of the products sold there. If planning a sunset picnic by the Mekong riverside, this is the place for getting the food.

Night Market

If Phou Si Market is the place for beginning the day, the Night Market is the perfect place for ending it. Located near Phou Si and the Royal Palace, the place offers good Laotian dinners and souvenirs including from the Hmong people living in nearby villages. The Hmong sell mainly embroidered clothes in their traditional designs.

Hmong Market

Another place for meeting the Hmong is the Hmong Market, which operates during the day in font of the New Luang Prabang Hotel. Dressed in their traditional clothes – usually black with colorful ornaments – they sell clothes and other traditional products. If planning to visit one of their villages (see the Around Luang Prabang entry in this journal), it is recommended to see the products sold there before buying in town.

Vegetables Market

For those with a strong stomach, the Vegetables Market is the place to buy and taste insects – cooked or fresh – and body parts of every imaginable animal. Feeling like having a fried-snake for breakfast? Want to decorate the dish with fermented fish sauce? This is the place for that.

Books

As Vientiane, Bangkok and Phnom Penh, Luang Prabang is one of the best places in Southeast Asia for second hand English books. They can be purchased (expensive) or exchanged for a reasonable fee. As in Phnom Penh, one of the most popular items is travel guides (mostly Lonely Planet). They look colorful, shiny and new, but most of them are photocopied and would disintegrate after the first trip on the Laotian countryside.

Tak Bat

This is the name of the rice collecting ceremony performed by monks at dawn. The event is colorful and well worth of waking up early. If wishing to participate, it is strongly advised to avoid the prepared food being sold to tourists for them to give the monks. Preparing the offering independently is more respectful and avoids certain ugly problems.

One Sunset over the Mekong

The mountainous areas of Laos offer unforgettable sunsets behind lush cliffs. Luang Prabang is not different, except of course that here the set is populated by exquisitely shaped temples. The Phou Si Mount is a popular spot for enjoying the view, though from there this majestic temple – the main attraction in town – cannot be properly enjoyed. A better option is the Mekong riverside, where many restaurants allow enjoying a meal during the sunset.

More than anything else, modern Luang Prabang is the religious capital of Laos; few places in Southeast Asia offer richer religious architecture.

On Laotian Temples

The many temples in town date from the 16th century onwards and display different influences, mainly from Khmer, Thai, Burmese and Chinese temples. However, these influences are just that, Laotian temples features a unique – and elegant – look.

The temples include various buildings serving religious and administrative tasks. Despite the unusual surroundings, the traveler can easily identify the main structures: the two main ones are the Assembly and Ordination halls. They clearly are the most elaborated structures in the compound. The Assembly Hall features one large central room where the main Buddha image of the temple is, a preaching chair is located nearby. The pointed roofs feature flat tiles in two or three layers and are considerably larger than the structure below them. Carved woodworks are applied generously between the pillars and the beams. Naga serpents are a popular motif. The Ordination Hall is the place where religious ceremonies take place; the public is not allowed into this area.

How can these two be correctly differentiated? Simply, the Assembly Hall is open to the public, while the Ordination Hall has its doors closed. If a ceremony is taking place, then also the identification is clear, because a monk would make sure the nosy traveler does not enter. The rule is not strict, in Tingboche I was graciously invited to participate in a ceremony within the temple.

Usually, all the other structures in the compound surround the Assembly Hall. Koutis is the name of the monks' dwellings; more often than not it is a simple wooden structure. A smallish, square building on stilts – or any other type of elevated foundation – is where the compound’s library is usually located. Another unmistakable structure is the drum shelter – a fragile looking wood structure housing a drum high above the ground, the last is used for special ceremonies. A similar structure houses a long boat used for races between communities. A wood room on stilts is dedicated for meditating groups, while a similar, but much larger structure open in three sides is used as a meeting point between the denizens and the monks and is called "sala." Some wats features also a cremation temple, they can be recognized by its chimney.

However, the most impressive structure in the compound is the That (stuppa; "chedi" in Thailand). These temples usually enshrine Buddha or other relics and appear in a variety of shapes depending on their location and religious symbolism. They feature a wide base that narrows toward the structure top; beyond this generalization, details change from one temple to another. The Laotian version is especially slim and elegant; the Pha That Luang in Vientiane being the epitome of these structures.

An integral part of the temples are the Buddha statues. The eyes’ shape of the Buddha statues in Southeast Asia is unmistakably Asian, but beyond that the statues appear in all the typical Buddha postures, where each one has a special significance. Yet, there are three peculiarities of Laotian Buddha statues. First, the Buddha doesn’t feature any divine sign – like a third eye – on the forehead. Second, a cranial protuberance appears as a coil of hair on its top. The last is the easiest to spot; Laotian Buddhas features very long and outwardly curved earlobes.

The Main Temples of Luang Prabang

Phou Si

Luang Prabang’s look is dominated by Phou Si, a hill at the very center of downtown on the small peninsula between the Mekong and Khan rivers. A fee is charged for accessing the staircase to the summit.

Wat Tham Phou Si is halfway the top on the side looking over the Nam Khan River, while at the summit is Wat Chom Si. From the last are good views of the town and the rivers; moreover, this temple is almost omnipresent in town, it can be seen from far away. The best sights from the summit are at sunset, when the sun goes down behind the dramatic mountains across the Mekong River, though if seeing it there the majesty of Phou Si itself is missed.

Behind the Mount Phou Si, along Nam Khan River, Wat Aphai features a renovated stuppa and a large Buddha statue.

Wat Xieng Toung

Dating back to 1560, the "Temple of the Golden City" is the oldest monastery in the city and one of its best known landmarks. The very pointed roof, which almost reaches the ground at its lowest point, of the Assembly Hall became the model for later temples. A beautiful garden is home to this temple, which is superbly located one block from where the Khan River flows into the Mekong.

Despite its humble size, this elegant temple is where Laotian kings were crowned until 1975.

Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham

Located next to the Night Market, Mount Phou Si and the Royal Palace, on Sisavangvong Road, this temple is one of the largest in town. The original structure was built during the 17th century, but a large restoration during the 19th century resulted in the addition of the word "Mai" ("new") to its name. Nowadays, it is usually called just "Wat Mai."

The temple was home to the Pha Bang (see that entry in this journal) and during the Lao New Year (Pimay) it is still put there in display for three days, when denizens sprinkle it with water hoping their wishes would become true.

Wat Aham

The Monastery of the Blossoming Heart dates back to the beginning of the 19th century and is located at the very center of Luang Prabang’s night life district. Within it are two large banyan trees ("bhodi," the tree under which Buddha achieved enlightenment) that supposedly guard the shrine for the Devata Luang spirits, the city protectors. Masks of the last – named Phou Gneu and Gna Gneu – can be seen during the Lao New Year festivities. Two statues of two temple guardian can be seen on the front porch; they represent Ravana and Hanuman from the Indian Ramayana.

Wat Nong Sikhounmuang

Built in a mixture of Vientiane and Thai styles, this temple displays the most colorful roof in Luang Prabang, strongly reminding of similar temples in Thailand.

Wat Pha Kham

At the very point of the downtown peninsula is this temple. Non-renovated, it effectively transfers the visitor into a long gone era. Built in Northeastern Lao style, it also looks a bit different from most other temples in town.

Near it is Wat Souvannakhiri a wat consisting of a large colonial house and a small temple containing a golden Buddha.

Wat Sen Souk Haram

With a three-layered roof of red and yellow tiles, the Temple of the 100000 Treasures is one of the most attractive temples in town, especially due to the sharp contrast between the deep ochre color of its walls and a golden stuppa standing next to it. The name originates on the number of stones said to having been taken from the adjacent Mekong River for its construction in 1718. The racing long boat stored in it is especially beautiful. The temple is located three short blocks from the peninsula’s tip, and one block from its Khan riverside, on Sakkarine Road.

Next to it is the Wat Sopsikhalam, which is remarkable for a clay covered stuppa and a large Buddha statue in the garden.

The full list of temples in town is only surpassed by the number of hotels and guesthouses. After seeing the main treasures – and if still capable to walk – the best advice is to let serendipity allow you to discover a still unknown temple. There must be a few of those as well…

The Loop

Most travelers arriving at Laos enter through Vientiane and leave from Huay Xai, after having crossed Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang and Udom Xai; or do this path on the opposite direction.

This trail covers the main attractions – especially if travelling on the Mekong River between Luang Prabang and Udom Xai – but it leaves out the wonderful south, where the best coffee on earth grows. In any case, if following this trail, then keep in mind that several attractions are before or after passing through Luang Prabang; a visit to them should be planned beforehand.

Kuang Si Falls

These falls are about thirty kilometers south of Luang Prabang and can be reached from town on boat, tuk-tuk or any rented vehicle. Featuring several steps and pools, the place has become the main resort surrounding the nearby city. Unluckily, that means it looks like Coca-Cola was flowing there; food stalls crowd the place and children from the nearby villages ask for money in well practiced English.

Yet this incredibly green area is enjoyable, especially if climbing up and away from the food stalls. If travelling with private transport, then it is possible to visit traditional villages on the way, though they are visible also from the main road.

The park charges a small entrance fee. It is recommended to allot a whole day to the tour and to combine the trip with a visit to the Bear Rescue Center, where endangered Asiatic Black Bears and an Indo-Chinese tiger can be seen. Nearby are Hmong villages that can also be visited.

Hmong & Kamou Villages

One of the most popular deals offered by travel agencies in town is visits to Hmong and Kamou villages. A point to keep in mind is that several villages are along the main roads (like those on the way to the Kuang Si Falls), while others can be reached after a trek on the hills. The Hmong can be found in all of the mountainous areas of Southeast Asia (including China, where they are called Miao), while the Kamou are a subgroup of the Highland Lao people. The Hmong supported the Americans during the Vietnam War. After being abandoned at the war’s end, some Hmong groups continued until recently a guerrilla war against the Laotian Communist government.

Their slash and burn agriculture practices means their villages change locations regularly; thus arranging visits through local travel agents is imperative. The treks prices change according to their length and the villages locations; the cheapest ones charge around ten dollars for a single day visit to a nearby village. Specially designed treks are available upon request.

Hmong villages are distinctive by having large wood and bamboo houses built on the ground floor, while Lao and Thai people prefer them on stilts with storage and working space on the ground floor. This is not random; Thai and Lao often settle next to rivers and seek protection from floods, while the Hmong are highlanders. The villages next to the roads are more likely to have electricity and running water; though I strongly recommend bringing enough water for the trip, or a portable purifying system. The main crop of these villages is sticky rice, while opium is being aggressively eradicated. Despite many stories (and travel agents) telling otherwise, the wise traveler should keep distance from that scene.

The cultural scene is complex; animism is still the norm among the Hmong, though it is practiced together with Buddhism and Christianity. To those that have met Hmong people elsewhere, their clothing in a specific village is of interest because it differentiates between the various subgroups (white, red, black, green, striped or braided sleeved). For example, most of the guides in Northern Vietnam (like the Fansipan Mountain) are Black Hmong. Their colorfully embroidered clothes make superb souvenirs.

Pak Ou Caves

Oddly, one of the main religious sites in the area is within caves. Pak Ou. Roughly thirty kilometers north of town, these two caves are by the Mekong riverside and can be reached with boat from downtown.

An elegant staircase leads from the water level to a kind of entrance platform. After paying the entrance fee, the visitors can see about four thousand Buddha statues, most of them in the lower cave (Tham Ting, the upper one is named Tham Theung). Most of the statues are made of wood and display a typical Laotian style in a wide range of classical postures.

The Tadsae Waterfall

On the other direction, twenty kilometers south of Luang Prabang, is the Tadsae Waterfall. Despite offering a less attractive landscape than the Kuang Si Falls and being worth a visit only during the rainy season, this site offers more pools; moreover, being less popular, it is less crowded and features many local visitors. Food is available at food stalls and a restaurant.

Do to its status as a World Heritage Site; Luang Prabang is very well connected to the outer world, at least in Laotian standards. Despite its tiny size, it features an international airport with flights to Vientiane, Phongsaly and Xieng Khuang (Phonsavan) in Laos and Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi and Siem Reap as international destinations. A visa on arrival can be obtained at the airport. Taxis span the short distance to the city.

Yet, a trip to Luang Prabang should be seen in a wider context. For a long time it was one of the capital of an important kingdom in Southeast Asia and now it is part of one of the most exotic destinations in the world. Travelling so far and then arriving by plane and leaving a few days later by the same way means missing the countryside that supported the kingdom and the city. Beyond the damage to the traveler’s capability to understand the context of what he is seeing, that means missing one of the most awesome sets in Southeast Asia. Dramatic cliffs, lush vegetation, rivers fighting their way downwards amidst a hostile environment and traditional villages belonging to a different era are part of a land trip to Luang Prabang.

Would you exchange that for an aisle seat on an air-truck – a flying tuk-tuk - and re-heated, pre-cooked, plastic-rich, nature-lean meals?

On the Road

Luang Prabang is on the long road connecting Vientiane to Udom Xai – the Laotian travel hub in the northern part of the country. Between Vientiane and Luang Prabang are two popular resorts: Vang Vieng and Kasi. The first is very commercialized, though the wild views of the cliffs surrounding the river are a very good compensation for that.

If arriving at Luang Prabang from Vientiane, then it is sensible to leave it northwards to Udom Xai. The last is the gate to Luang Nam Tha, Muang Sing, Huay Xai and other locations in Northern Laos.

A good way of beating the tendency to follow the beaten path is to make a detour eastwards towards Phonsavan and Xam Nua.

Renting a car in Laos may be tricky; a western traveler may find too few gas stations at too random locations. Luckily, Laotian buses are very reliable, though a bit after their heyday. Moreover, the trip gives the opportunity to witness the denizens and their culture without obstructions.

If taking this path, the best is avoiding travel agents, just reach the bus station and buy a ticket. Allow for delays, and make the visit a day or two before the trip is planned. As other Laotian cities, Luang Prabang features several terminals; ask at the hotel desk or the tuk-tuk driver which one is suitable for the desired destination. Main attractions are served by more than one terminal; for example Luang Prabang can be reached from the main and northern bus terminals in Vientiane.

An important point is to plan breaks during long trips. Reaching Huay Xai from Luang Prabang is possible, but not recommended. Stopping at Udom Xai and Luang Nam Tha along the way is better, and allows seeing another city along the way. The last leg of this trip – Luang Nam Tha to Huay Xai – was one of the highlights in my overland trips in Southeast Asia.

Direct buses connect the city with Hanoi, though – if planning to cross between the countries – I think it is much more enjoyable making stops at the border cross points and travelling independently. I gave specific information on that in the following journals: Planning Three Months in Southeast Asia, Planning Vietnam and Planning Laos.

From Thailand the best for reaching Luang Prabang overland would be crossing the border at Nong Khai or Chiang Khong and then using the regular Laotian buses for reaching Luang Prabang.

On the Mekong

Travelling on the Mekong from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai – or the other way around - is popular. I described this option in the Huay Xai journal.

In Town

A recommended option for moving in town is renting a bicycle. The bridges allow crossing the rivers and enjoying beautiful temples outside downtown Luang Prabang. Renting boats to nearby villages is possible and can be combined with the visit to the Pak Ou Caves.