Cromwell - New Zealand's best kept secret...

Known in the wine lover's slang as '45 degrees South' - the Central Otago region of the South Island of New Zealand is a secret gem in the world of wines.

The Pinot Noir wine is widely known to wine growers and tasters as one of the most difficult and sensitive grapes to grow and harvest. With only a few places in the world that manage it well - it becomes a bit of a jewel amongst collections when you find one that is really stunning.

Though it's only a recent addition to the world wine growing regions (the COPNL - Central Otago Pinot Noir Limited - was only founded in 2003 to promote the Central Otago regional brand of wine) - it is very distinct in it's growing capabilities, and is in fact the southern most wine growing region in the world.

The local region is also known for growing some of New Zealand's best fruits - something that contributes to both the soil and the wines, and the flavours of apricots and cherries often make their way into the delicate flavour of local wines.

Made up of largely boutique wines, the area around Cromwell is an excellent place to get to stop in and try some of these new wines. At the moment you can still get an excellent local Pinot Noir for a very reasonable price (Wooing Tree winery offers some very nice Pinot for around $35NZ per bottle (about £12 per bottle) though some of their reserves do go up to $85NZ. ) though this is highly likely to change in the coming years as the wines are discovered by the larger wine community.

These wines alone make for an excellent reason to visit this stunning area in the convenient location on the main road through the South Island towards Queenstown.

For any real wine lover - this area should go high up on your list of places to visit.

As I may have mentioned once or twice in my reviews of the Cromwell area, this is so far a very up and coming wine region in the world. Locals of the South Island know it well, and talk about it with as much respect and admiration as they may do of it's more northern cousins.

But outside of wine circles and those living near the Otago region of New Zealand - Cromwell is virtually unheard of. And aside from the fact that it's a perfect climate for some of the world's most notoriously hard to grow grapes and thus produces some stunning wines completely unique to the region - it is also a perfect location for those travelling from one side of the south island to the other.

When you drive into Cromwell - you might not believe that it's the producer of such amazing wines. It's been known in the past predominantly for it's orchards and it's gold mines - a thing that brought locals to the area in the first place.

It still has the feel of laid back farm country, and though you can practically smell the progress in the air, right now it still seems like a place for farmer's markets, local produce and a few little tucked away surprised.
I have very, very strong suspicions that in 10 years time Cromwell will be a very well developed and stunning wine country. And though that too will have it's advantages and will be an excellent place to visit - New Zealand's over zealous tourism industry may well take away from that, as every place you go will likely be swarming with tourists.

I think it's a very good thing at this point in time to have a place in New Zealand to go that has such a nice atmosphere to offer, with out the buses of backpackers and tour groups to taint it.

Cromwell town centre - though nothing stunning at the moment, is a very nice spot. It is somewhat tucked away from the main road, and if you blink on the way to Bannockburn, you might miss it.
It's got a small but very helpful I-site (tourist information centre) where you can stop and get a map of the wineries to visit. At the moment there are still only a handful in the area, and though none of them are as grand as those in Marlborough, the wines more than make up for that.

There's a nice array of little local shops and a few places you can get pies for lunch. It's a pedestrianized town centre, so park you car in the lot for the I-site and go for a bit of a wander. This is an excellent place to stop, stretch your legs, and get your bearings before heading on to the vineyards, or in fact to Queenstown or the ski fields.

Cromwell has one of the coldest and driest climates in New Zealand - so be prepared for a brisk wind when ever you visit - though the wonderful sunshine in this area is a nice change after the rains of the north island.

There are, unfortunately, not many options of where to stay in Cromwell at the moment, though that is very, very likely to change in the near future. Like most other visitors I ended up actually staying the night in Queenstown, but there are also lots of places in nearby Wanaka.

There is also an old west mining town, just down the road - and driving out of Cromwell towards Queenstown you do get to see many of the old mines open and crumbling along the river - which is surprisingly impressive.

Stunning scenery, beautiful wines, nice climate and a local undiscovered feel made my little trip to Cromwell one of my nicest days in New Zealand.

Though it seems that it is utterly impossible to find online (I have just spent hours looking for the exact address on Google...) The Freeway Orchard Complex is a really nice stop to make on your way into, out of, or stopping into the little town of Cromwell.

Cromwell is so nicely situated between Queenstown and the ski slopes of the Southern Alps that you are very likely to pass by on your way through the south island.
And though you may be inclined not to spend any time in this little area while hurrying to all the Xtreme sporting of Queenstown, if you do you will really be missing out on a very pleasant, little-touristed beautiful piece of New Zealand.

And though the Freeway Orchard Complex has a less than inspiring name, it is a great place to stop.
Coming from Lake Tekapo to spend the week in Queenstown, all of the locals emphatically told us we had to stop at the Orchard Fruit Shop for fresh ice cream. (Something they all do going into and out of Cromwell)
And as it is nicely situated on the way into town (just off the bridge at the turn into Cromwell - and easy to spot) and next to the lake, we pulled in excited to try the famous ice cream.

I have to say that there is nothing amazing about this place, but it is a great introduction to the area. Local fruit, vegetables and many different varieties of honey are available. (And many of them for sampling.) The ice-cream was indeed a revelation.
You simply choose which type of fruit you want in your ice cream and they make you a big heaping cone on the spot. I believe they cost $3, and were worth every penny.

There is also a Prenzel shop next door - with some on the most amazing things to sample you can get in New Zealand. Be sure to pop in and try a few of their vinaigrettes and sauces, you will probably leave with gifts for everyone you know.

After wandering around the fruit and vegetable shop for a while, picking out a few local treats and then getting our custom made ice cream we wandered across the road to sit by the lake in the sun and enjoy it to the fullest.
This is one of the most perfect relaxing pit stops on a long drive I've ever come across.

The second stop on your wine tour of Otago should definitely be Aurum.
Set just a few minutes drive out of the little town centre of Cromwell in the centre of Otago in New Zealand's south island you find this beautiful little family run vineyard.

The setting is incredibly idyllic - a small little entrance building surrounded by the hills of Otago, brilliant sunshine and fields of vines.

This was one of my favourite little wineries due to the atmosphere. Because Cromwell is much smaller than its white wine producing cousins up north, the wineries have a much more personal feel - and when you stumble onto a good one, you really feel as if you have discovered a gem that no one else knows about.

Where the Wooing Tree across town may be known for its astonishing Pinot Noir - Aurum has a delightful selection (including Pinot) which are unlike any other wines I sampled in New Zealand.
Beautifully distinct and obviously crafted with a great deal of love and care - this is a vineyard to savour.

The hostess could not have been more pleasant. We wandered in on a sunny Otago day at the beginning of spring - several days after a surprise snowstorm - and were quickly welcomed into the cellar door as if we were long awaited guests.

There was no feeling of taking up the hostess time with tasting; we stood long chatting, sampling and discussing the wines - savouring the uniqueness of them all and thoroughly enjoying the experience.

Though they did have a wonderful selection of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris on hand for sampling - it was the Riesling I found a bit of a revelation. It's a wine I've never had a connection with in the past, and was shocked to find myself rolling the flavour around my tongue and deciding to buy a bottle.

This is a beautiful little vineyard, and well worth a visit while you sample, or simply as you pass through.

Even those who aren't overly into their wines are generally aware of New Zealand's proclivity for growing, producing and selling great Sauvignon Blanc wines. It's why many people come to the great wine growing regions of Marlborough and Hawk's Bay.

But for those in the know, if you want a great Pinot Noir, you head to central Otago and the little town of Cromwell.

And though it's highly arguable amongst connoisseurs and locals alike - for my money, if you want outstanding Pinot Noir, you go to Wooing Tree.

Like everything else in Cromwell, Wooing Tree Winery has an 'up and coming' feel to it. This family run winery produced its first vintage in 2005 - and yet when you visit the area and taste the wines, you get the distinct impression they are regarded well above their years.

It's a cozy little place - with some outdoor seating in a large well kept garden, and though the area surrounding it doesn’t have much to offer yet - it most certainly will in the coming years. This is a place to experience now while it's still growing, and the wines more than make up for any lack of the old-feel atmosphere you get in the other wine regions.

The area of Otago is perfectly suited climate wise to grow the extremely delicate and temperamental grapes of the Pinot Noir, and you really taste the distinction and perfection of this in the wines of Wooing Tree.

Their cellar door is open 7 days a week and opens from 10 am - 5 pm.
I highly recommend you add this to your list of wineries to stop at in the region - or even to make a short detour for if you are passing through on your way to Queenstown or on to the ski fields.

This really is a stunning winery. It is simple in its decor and setting, but the wines for sampling are breathtaking, the prices are reasonable and the staff are friendly and knowledgeable. An excellent wine tasting spot.