Around Lima's Main Square

The Iglesia de la Merced, built where the first Mass in Lima was celebrated, has a history of destruction and reconstruction. Originally built in 1534, La Merced was determined to be too small and a larger version was erected. It was then torn down and rebuilt in 1628. In 1687 the church was destroyed by an earthquake and again rebuilt. It was later damaged in the big quake of 1746 and gutted by a fire in 1773.


The Church of La Merced which stands today was completed in the late 1700s and has an ornate baroque colonial façade. In particular, you should note the ornate columns, which are wrapped with carved grapevines. Because it is situated in the centre of the commercial area, it is one of the most well-known churches in Lima. If you are walking the pedestrian street, you must go inside. Followers of Padre Urraca can be seen each day as they come to La Merced to honor this 17th Century priest.

The church has a portal which is a masterpiece carved in granite brought from Panama, with bent columns of Baroque style. The roof of the church is elegantly decorated with figures made of plaster. In the interior of the church is an ornate main altar in the neoclassical style which is dominated by the figures of the Virgin of Merced and a carving of Saint Michael the Archangel. Another highlight is the chapel of Friar Pedro Urraca that contains a roughly carved wooden cross which, according to legend, he used to escape from a demon.

This church is an excellent example of the splendour of Spanish colonial architecture. The church is filled with works of art, such as the main altar dedicated to the Virgen de las Mercedes, patron saint of the Peruvian armed forces, and a beautiful sacristy decorated with Arabesque tiles. La Merced houses one of the finest collections of colonial oil paintings and carvings in Lima. I recommend it to everyone.

A long pedestrian street crowded with shoppers, vendors and sightseers connects Lima's two main plazas. The heart of the old town is centred on the striking Plaza de Armas, gracefully colonial with its bronze fountain and old street lamps. It was once the central marketplace, where bullfights were held during Spanish rule. At the other end of the street is The Plaza San Martin, an impressive square with a hive of activity surrounding its central fountains; a busy area of shoe-shiners, lunching office workers, street artists and the sometime site for political rallies and rioting workers.

The Jiron de la Union, was for many years one of the most important boulevards of the city, It was often described as the most aristocratic street in Lima, where many of the most affluent citizens of the city would meet. Subsequently, with the deterioration of the centre of Lima, the Jiron de la Union lost its aristocratic character and became completely commercialized.

The Jiron de la Union was built by Francisco Pizarro in 1535, the year of the foundation of Lima. It is located on the eastern side of the Plaza de Armas. It was not until the early 20th century, however, that it was given its current name.

In the 1970s, the third through ninth blocks of the street were restricted solely for pedestrian use. In the 1980s, the historic centre of the city suffered through economic recession and the increase of crime drove away visitors. At this time, the Jiron became an area with a great quantity of abandoned stores and many street sellers. Today, however, it has returned to being a more conventional commercial centre, with the addition of casinos, slot machine parlors and chicken restaurants.

The architecture here is a mix of old and new buildings. For those interested in fast foods or western cuisine this is the area. Like the Plaza de Armas, there are street sellers walking the area selling souvenirs and other goods. There are also some historic sites along the street, including the Iglesia de La Merced.

The ninth block borders the eastern side of the Plaza San Martin and passes by the Club Nacional and the Hotel Bolivar. The popular Plaza is unlike any other in the city. It is surrounded on three sides by French-style buildings. There are several restaurants here which enable you to enjoy a relaxed view of the statue of San Martin in the centre as you enjoy a meal or coffee.

The Plaza Mayor or Plaza de Armas, is the birthplace of the city of Lima, as well as the core of the central city. It is probably the grandest square I have seen in South America. The square was originally surrounded by small shops and businesses. It is located in the historic centre and today is surrounded by the Government Palace, Cathedral, Archbishop’s Palace, the Municipal Building, and the Palace of the Union.

There is a water fountain in the square which immediately draws the eye. The first fountain built on the plaza was constructed by the viceroy Francisco de Toledo and was inaugurated in 1578. It consisted of a baluster and an elevated bowl, and it had eight pipes through which water fell into the bowl on the next level. A ball at the top of the fountain dispersed water back onto the lower levels. The seal of the city was inscribed on this ball. The original fountain was replaced in 1651. This fountain remains as the centerpiece of the plaza to this day.

The Plaza has had a checkered and somewhat gruesome history. During the colonial era, the plaza served as a market, bull fighting ring, and the city gallows. The plaza also became home to the Auto de fe in which the inquisition occurred. Fortunately, today all is peaceful and the Plaza is used by the local population and visitors as a sightseeing location, a resting place, an entertainment site and a place to be seen and to see others.

In one corner of the plaza, opposite the cathedral, there is an impressive statue of Francisco Pizarro on horseback - though, apparently, he was actually a mediocre horseman. I was told the statue once sat in the center of the plaza, but the clergy apparently took a dim view of the horse's rear end facing the cathedral, so the statue was moved to its present position. There is an identical statue in Pizarro's hometown of Trujillo, Spain.

The city hall is another building on the square which is well-worth a look. Although it resembles a colonial-era building it was actually constructed in 1944. There is something to see both outside and inside. During office hours it is worth stepping inside to see the stained-glass windows above the marble staircase. Outside there is a lovely pedestrian walkway called the Pasco Los Escribanos running beside the building. Here you will find several restaurants and the tourist-information office.

After years of decline, the safety in the central city has dramatically improved recently but local advice is that it is still problematical at night. Good advice is to head back to your accommodation late afternoon as you see the locals heading home.

The Government Palace or Palacio de Gobierno is the official Residence of the President of Peru. The initial structure was built by Francisco Pizarro as Governor in 1535, as a modest two-story pile of adobe. Then, it was used by the Viceroys of Peru. In this period it was enlarged from time to time and occupied by 43 Viceroys, beginning with Pizarro, and ending with Jose de la Serna, who was forced out in 1821.

During the following centuries, the exterior of the palace was not well maintained and there was much commercial activity on the adjacent streets. In 1884 the government decided to give the palace a more dignified and prestigious surrounding, and the commerce outside was prohibited. Late 1884, there was a fire in the government palace and a new building was built.

The palace has suffered from three fires, the biggest one in 1921. The palace of today shows the result of a big restoration of the old Pizarro palace together with a new facade, and it was inaugurated in 1938.

Every day at noon, the guard at the palace changes, in a ceremony similar to the event at Buckingham Palace. The uniforms, with the plumed hats and bright colors, make a great spectacle, as do the Peruvian guards themselves who employ a variety of steps and turns to get themselves into position. Initially we thought it odd that a martial band would play Simon and Garfunkel during such a serious ceremony. We learned In fact, they were playing the song "El Condor Pasa", written by a Peruvian in the 1940's but later borrowed by the American duo.

Tours of part of the building can be arranged a day in advance by booking at the building at the corner of Jiron Junin and Jiron de la Union. You need to have your passport with you. Visits include many of the rooms where the President conducts affairs of state. Unfortunately we were unable to do this. We were told that one of the highlights is the Golden Room where the walls are almost covered in intricate guilded designs. I’m told you can also make bookings at the tourist office outside the church at Miraflores. This is probably more convenient for most visitors who stay in this popular suburb.

One of the undoubted highlights of Lima is the cathedral and adjacent Archbishop’s Palace. We headed here on our first day in Lima and we were certainly not disappointed. What helped to enhance the experience was a military parade which travelled around the square, stopping in front of this grand building. It was a very poignant moment for us both.

The Basilica Cathedral of Lima is a Roman Catholic cathedral located in the Plaza des Armas in downtown Lima. Construction began in 1535, and the building has undergone many reconstructions and transformation since, however, it still retains its colonial structure and facade. The layout for this immense structure was dictated by Francisco Pizarro and his basic vision has survived despite extensive rebuilds after earthquakes in 1746 and 1940. The first church on the site was completed in 1625 and is said to be designed on the model of Seville Cathedral in Spain.

The interior of the cathedral is attractive, with a delicate vaulted ceiling and a checkerboard floor. It is embellished with some impressive baroque furnishings, the most notable of which are the intricately carved choir stalls. Because of changing tastes, the main altar was replaced around 1800 with one in a neoclassical style. At about the same time the towers that flank the entrance were added.

Perhaps the highlight of a visit to the cathedral is the colorfully mosaiced chapel containing the tomb of Francisco Pizarro, Spanish conquistador, destroyer of the Inca Empire and founder of the city of Lima. There is also a small museum of religious art and artefacts. There are 15 smaller chapels within the larger cathedral structure, each of which is dedicated to a different saint or religious figure.

Despite its appearance, I believe the exquisitely balconied Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop's Palace) to the left of the cathedral in Plaza de Armas is a relatively modern building, dating from 1924. The palace was designed by the Polish Peruvian architect Ricardo de Jaxa Malachowski, who used the Torre Tagle Palace as a reference point. The site previously was occupied by the city’s first police station and jail. The palace is also headquarters to the offices of the cardinal of Peru who is also the archbishop of Lima.