The narrow, long strip of Southern Laos reminds, in its geometrical and geographical characteristics, of
Vietnam. Despite the shore being here by the
Mekong River and the mountains being on the west instead of the east, the set is similar. Regardless its remoteness, Southern Laos is the most accessible part of the country.
Pakse’s Bus TerminalsPakse features three bus terminals. The new one is roughly eight kilometers south of the town, while the old one is at the same distance, but northwards. Tickets sold by the travel agencies in town include the ride to the terminal or pick up from town if traveling to
Vientiane. Tickets to international destinations need to be purchased at the travel agencies.
The VIP Bus Terminal is near the stadium. It serves only buses to Vientiane,
Ubon Ratchathani and
Bangkok Index and offers better services than the other terminals, including internet and coffee.
To and from ThailandThailand's southernmost cross to Laos is through Chong Mek, or Ban Mai Sing Amphon as called in Laos, the only overland cross between the countries.
Chong Mek is about one hour from
Ubon Ratchathani in Thailand; thus reaching it from Bangkok is easy. On the other side of the border, Chong Mek is forty kilometers away from the bridge over the Mekong and Pakse. The Laotian side is better developed and houses a big market – called Vangtao - catering for Thai shoppers. The cross is open daily between 6 AM and 6 PM.
At Chong Mek it is possible to cross into Laos without a passport by paying five baht at the Thai side, but only if staying in the village and returning to Thailand in the same day. Thailand offers visas on arrival for most nationalities; Laotian one month visas can be purchased there. A point to keep in mind is that
Laotian immigration regulations change often and unexpectedly, thus it is advised to reach the area with a visa. Note that an extra fee is requested after 4 PM, weekends and official holidays.
Buses leave Pakse for Ubon Ratchathani at 7 and 8:30 AM and 3:30 and 4:30 PM; the trip longs about two hours. In the opposite direction, buses leave at 7 and 9 AM and 2:30 and 3:30 PM. They stop at Chong Mek for the passport stamping.
Bus tickets to Bangkok – via Chong Mek and Ubon Ratchathani - are sold by travel agencies in Pakse. However, that’s substantially more expensive than travelling independently to Chong Mek and from there to Ubon Ratchathani. The difference in travel time is insubstantial.
To and from VietnamPakse’s northern terminal offers buses to Vietnam, through the Lao Bao border cross. The destinations offered are Lao Bao, Dong Ha, Hue, and Da Nang. Being Vietnam a very long country, entering roughly at its middle doesn’t make much sense if planning a visit to the whole country. See my
Planning Vietnam journal for more details.
Cambodian ConnectionThe most overwhelming entry is from
Cambodia, on a boat floating over the shallow Mekong. Cambodian visas on arrival can be purchased at the Voem Kham - Dom Kralor border cross, though Laotian visas cannot. If entering the area from Cambodia, the best is to purchase a visa at
Phnom Penh – or much earlier at Bangkok (this last option is the less expensive).
If entering from Cambodia, the Si Phan Don area is the first sight. It is famous for its Irrawaddy Dolphins; however, the town of Kratie in Cambodia is a better place for a close encounter with them. There, the Mekong is narrower and deeper and the dolphins concentrate in a better-defined area.
Nonetheless, the Laotian side is perfect to see typical Lao-Thai riverside villages. The long way to the area and its slow pace invite for a significant stay of a week or so. Nakasong is the southernmost town in the area; Pakse is the next significant town northwards.
The Southern Bus Terminal in Pakse serves Voem Kham directly. On the way there it is recommended to stop at Nakasong; minivans to Nakasong leave daily at 8:30 AM. From there, ferries reach Don Dhet and Don Khon, the two most popular islands on Si Phan Don; their fare is included in the minivan ticket.
SaravanSaravan is the closest town to the Bolaven Plateau in southeastern Laos. Beyond a visit to the growing area of one of the best coffees in the world, the circular plateau has an altitude of around 600m and therefore is cooler than the rest of the south. It is a good place to visit hill tribes; Lawae, Katu, Alak, Ta-oy, Suay and Mon-Khmer groups inhabit the area. As with most Laotian provinces, the capital is the only town in it and serves as an administrative center and as a huge market, which occupies the town's center.
The way to Saravan splits 7.5kms north of Pakse; hence, if planning to visit it, the best option is to do it as a stop between Pakse and Savannakhet. Since the bus returns through the same route, is a time-consuming detour.
To reach Saravan and Attapeu – the provinces in the Laotian southeast - it is better to take any of the buses departing eastwards from Pakse, though buses from Savannakhet are also available. The buses leave from Pakse’s southern bus terminal between 6:30 AM and 3 PM; though delays may happen. On certain occasion, the roof of the bus I was traveling with was bent inside due to the incredible amount of luggage uploaded on it; it took well over an hour to put everything on place.
Savannakhet and VientianeSavannakhet is one of the busiest cities in Laos due to its location along the trade line between Thailand and Vietnam. Despite being a port, it lacks many of the maladies of those; its small center is clean and offers a look into a utopian, semi-industrialized Laos. If traveling southwards from Vientiane, then the town would be crossed in the way to Pakse. The two towns are excellently connected by bus.
Route Nine leads from Savannakhet to the Lao Bao crossing into Vietnam and crosses the
Ho Chi Minh Trail. If you do not plan to leave the country from there, then it is better to see the trail from Phonsavan in the northeast.
Buses reaching Vientiane directly exist, though the trip can take an undefined period of time; it is recommended to allow for unexpected delays. In one occasion, the bus I was traveling with run out of fuel on Vientiane’s outskirts; flat tires can also cause delays. If traveling directly to Vientiane, the night buses (6 and 8 PM from the Northern Terminal) are recommended.
AirThe airport is on the town northern outskirts. It offers flights to domestic destinations and international ones to Bangkok,
Ho Chi Minh City,
Phnom Penh and
Siem Reap. Tickets can be bought at the travel agencies in town, or from the Lao Airlines office on the promenade.
RiverThere are boats leading south of Pakse, though the service varies often and sometimes is not available. The best is approaching the dock and asking there. Travel agencies in town can provide accurate information. Charter boats exist but are significantly more expensive. A trip to Champosak should cost $5, if combining it with Si Phan Don, the total would rise to about $17. In comparison, a charter boat can cost well over a hundred dollars, depending on the trip details.
In TownPakse is small; unless attempting to reach the out of town terminals, the best is walking around. Tuk-tuks (motorized tricycles) and samlors (tricycles) can be rented; it is recommended to agree on a price before boarding them. 5000 kip for reaching the terminals is a sensible price, though if the bus ticket was bought from one of the downtown agencies, then the trip to the terminal would be included in the price.
Motorbikes can be rented at the main hotels in town for around 8$ per day. Driving in relaxed Laos is easier than in Cambodia or Vietnam.