The City of a Hundred Towers

Finding accommodation in Prague if you go on spec can be diificult. We were lucky as we went to the tourist office and they gave us a selection of rooms and hotels to choose from. Hotel Krystal turned out to be an excellent choice.

How to Reach the Hotel Krystal
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You take tram No 20 or 26 from the station Dejvicka - Line A. Buy tickets before hand from any of the kiosks in the city or from the kiosks in the metro station. It works out cheaper usually to buy a ticket for 3 or 5 days than buying a ticket every day. These tickets cover all forms of travel in Prague. Remember to validate the ticket when getting on the tram.bus or train as there are regular checks on transport and at various points at the different stations. We actually did get fined on our trip as we had tickets but forgot to validate them. The transport police will not take any excuses. We tried to act duggy by saying we were tourists and didn't understand but he was having none of it. He took us over to the regulations board and read the Riot Act and we had to pay around £24. So remember to validate! You can also catch a bus No 119 and if travelling in a hired car or by car, the hotel is on a direct route from the airport to the city centre.

Location
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The hotel is situated in Prague area 6 which is about 5 kilometres from the airport. Tram ride takes about 15 mins to the station, Dejvicka line, which is close to Prague Castle.If you want to go to the Old Town the metro ride takes around 10 minutes. This area of Prague is quite built up of old tenement buildings and they are a bit of an eye sore but even though it is jaded it is interesting as you definitely get the feeling you are re-living the communist regime.. Close by is Prague's biggest sports and recreational centre with an outdoor natural pool.

The hotel itself is a little difficult to find. We had to ask someone as we got lost. It is set back off the road and at first glance you might be shocked. It looks like a typical sort of Russian conference hotel - god knows how many floors. But once inside it isn't so bad. In fact I really liked it as it is definitely trapped in a time warp but design wise I thought it was an excellent representation of the era it was built in.

Facilities
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The Krystal Hotel is classed as a 3 star hotel but I think personally it should be 2 star. Originally, and still, is used by tourist groups, students, for conferences and and company seminars. It is also used as a teaching center for various universities in town and their students. .

Rooms are large, with lots of light due to French windows and have plenty of storage space. If you have a room at the back the view is not so good as it overlooks bins and a parking area for coaches. Bathrooms are en-suite but a bit dark and gloomy. There is a bath and shower. Decoration is simple but colour co-ordinated even if the colours are a bit pale and jaded, Only one painting in the room overlooking the bed and I did notice paintings all throughout the hotel by the same famous artist Jan Zavry. There is a desk and armchair as well as TV showing Czech TV and CNN.

Buffet breakfast is included in the price and this is served in the huge dining room on the bottom floor of the hotel. I loved the breakfasts as there was a good choice of bread rolls, granary, wholemeal, poppy seed and sesame seed. Cold hams and sausages, smoked usually, creamed cheese with prawns ( my favourite), cereals, choice of fruit juices but usually radio active with about 100 colours in and tea and coffee. Meals are also served in the evening but we always ate out so I can't comment about those.

In the foyer there is a small bar selling beers, wine and other spirits. Sandwiches are available if you want a snack. The bar staff were very friendly and you could take your drinks into the lounge area which was really comfortable. A small shop selling soveneirs and postcards is situated in the foyer also and one computer with Internet facilities.

Reception staff were okay but not over friendly. You can change money here but I wouldn't advise it as you will probably get a bad rate.

As this is a conference hotel there are several conference rooms and we had a peek in one. Huge communist clock on the wall - you can just imagine Russian business men sat around the huge oblong table conversing and discussing who to put into space next or how to keep hold of their gas supplies. Fascinating stuff.

Other facilities are a laundry, lift, sauna and solarium, hairdresser. Pets are accepted also.

Where to Visit
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As the hotel has a direct route into the city then the sights are only about 15 or 20 minutes away. Old and new town are easily accesible by foot. Prague Castle and the Jewish Quarter also. The city is full of bars, cafes and souveneir shops. The best way to see he city is a tour by bus. You will be able to see all the famous sights like Charles Bridge, National Theatre and Museum, for around 16 euros per person. If you wish to see the city by boat a trip can be arrnged by various companies for around 19 euros. Usually a mini bus will take you to the River Vltava where you can sit and take in the splendid panoramic view of the heart of Prague - Prague Castle, St. Vitus' Cathedral, Charles Bridge, the National Theatre, the hill of Petřín, the green cupola of St. Nicolas' church. These trips have local guides and you can be picked up at the hotel.

We took time out of the city by using public transport and visited Telc, Cesky Krumlov, Karlovy Vary. We had overnight stops in these towns usually staying in guest houses. All were of a high standard and good breakfasts. Public transport is cheap and most buses can be caught at the main station which is always hectic. Always buy your ticket before getting on the bus.

If you wish to go on day trips rather than stay over, nearest places to visit are:

Konopiste Castle - 4 hours, Karlstejn Castle - 4 hours, Kutna Hora-5 hours.

Food and drink is really cheap once outside the city and very good value.

What to buy
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Souveneir shops are dotted all over the city selling Matroshka dolls, amber and crystal.Prices vary from shop to shop so check a few out and compare prices. If you fancy taking a little tipple back for the relatives then take a bottle of Becherovka. It is a herby drink flavoured with cinnamon and aniseed. Comes in a very attractive green bottle with a blue and yellow label . Similar to the old Pastis bottles from France. It has quite a kick and is very addictive.
Summary

Did I enjoy my 5 day break in Prague in the Soviet looking hotel? Yes, I certainly did. The hotel is great if you want to be out of the city and are on a budget. It is'nt luxurious but it is comfortable, clean and easy to travel into the city. I liked all the tacky design features as they are kind of kitch. Prague as a city is beautiful but can be swarming with tourists which isn't so much fun. There are lots of attractions to see and you definitely won't get bored.

I always find that the best place to tour the New Town of Prague is at the upper end of Wenceslas Square where the staue of St. Wenceslas stands. This is a usual meeting place for tourists and locals alike. Two underground lines (A and C; station: Museum) intersects here. This is a lovely broad boulevard, lined with 19th and 20th century buildings and has for many years been Prague's main commercial street. Some 820 yards long and 65 yards wide, its dimensions have actually changed very little since the 14th century. This street is always busy with tourists from all over the world and I quite like the buzz that all these visitors make. It's definitely lively.

The National Museum, a neo-Renaissance building completed in 1890 stands at the upper end of the square. Within its Pantheon, 49 statues and busts of famous Czechs are on display, while in the wings there are various collections of scientific and historic interest. A wonderful and dominant building to look at from the outside but rather dull and uninteresting inside.

The lower end of Wencelas Square is often described as the 'Golden Cross' or simply the 'Shopping Triangle.' The two other important commercial streets, Narodni trida (National Street) and Na prikope (The Moat), meet here. There is a beer tavern not far away from here - in fact just a few yards, and it serves a good pint of sweet, black beer. The tavern bears the name U Fleku and has a shaded beer garden and serves food which is reasonably priced and is popular with both tourists and local people. Always a good sign if local people are eating.

Narodni trida leads to the National Theatre by the banks of the Vlatva. Completed in 1883, it is not only a playhouse, but also a proud symbol of national identity. It was built with donations from the Czech people and the country's most famous artists of the time worked on the decor. The building opposite, the Prague Film Acadamey is a fascinating place and one I am always glad to visit every time I am in the city. It houses one of the oldest coffeee houses in Prague and is where Vaclav Havel used to visit quite regularly. Years ago Havel was one of my heroes and I have many times tried to read his books but usually end up with a headache afterwards as they are far too 'intellectual' to enjoy.

Narodni trida and na prikope form the boundary between the Old and New Town so I will leave you here and move on to my next review of the Old Town.

The New Town isn't as pretty as the old quarters of Prague but it is still an enjoyable area to visit. I like the mixture of Renaissance with ultra modern and there are even some Art Deco buildings which captured my eye. It is just as busy as the old area and always buzzing with young and old - if you look carefully you will find something to captivate you.

Narodni trida and na prikope form the boundary between the Old and New Town. At the spot fomerly occupied by one of the 13 town gates stands the splendid, late-Gothic Powder Tower. Built during the late 15th century, its hipped roof and gallery were added at the end of the 19th century. For a fine view over the city's 100 towers, a climb to the top is well worth the effort. The tower was used as a gunpowder store from time to time, hence its name. In the 15th century, the palace of the Bohemian Kings stood next door but at the beginning of the 20th century, the fine art nouveau Municipal House was erected in its place and what a fine building it is. Above the entrance is a very impressive, semi-circular mosaic called Homage to Prague. The cafe and restaurant is faithful to the style of art nouveau and if you are a fan you won't be disappointed because this is a real gem.

The Celetna Ulice is a very busy pedestrianised thoroughfare and restaurants occupy many of the vaulted cellars beneath the originally Romanesque houses. Opposite the former Mint (1755) stands the The House of the Black Madonna, which dates from 1912. The dark skinned Virgin Mary in a gilded cage is just one example of the signs which adorned practically every house in Prague, before the introduction of numbers, almost every house had its own name. Other such examples in the Celetna are the House of the Three Kings (No 3) and the House of the Golden Vulture (No 22).

The focal point for the Old Town is the Old Town Square and one of the finest market places in Europe. Having seen many market squares on my travels and throughout my life this never ceases to excite me. To appreciate its huge dimensions, arrive early morning or late evening when it is usually almost empty.

The square is dominated by the 14th century Tyn Church whose 80 metre twin towers have come to symbolise Prague's Old Town. These towers dominate the sky line of Prague and can be seen from outside of the city. On the hour crowds gather at the foot of the Old Town Square's Town Hall tower. They are waiting for the Astronomical Clock to chime, but the Sphere created in 1490 by an academic at Charles 1V University doess not attract quite so much interest. Yet the disc underneath the puppet show displays the position of both the moon and sun and not only does it give Central European time but also Old Bohemian Time which counted from sunset to sunset. Beneath that is a painted calendar. The signs of the zodiac and rural scenes on the copper disc are by Josef Manes, a famous 19th century Czech painter.

The Old Town Hall consists of a whole line of buildings which ends on the corner with U Minuty, a house that is covered with Renaissance sgraffito ( Italian technique of painting where a design is scratched into two layers of plaster with a special tool very much like a comb). You won't miss this house as the beautifully scratched designs on the plaster stands out from the other end of the street.

Off St. Mary's Square is the back entrance to the Clementium. Up until the 16th century, 25 houses, three churches and a monastery occupied the 2 hectare site, but in 1620 a huge Jesuit centre was built. Summoned to Prague by the Emperor Ferdinand 1, the order established a number of educational institutions in the city. Their purpose was to re-educate the Protestants and return them to Catholicism. In one of the inner courtyards, a priest burnt 2,600 Hussite books. The Clementinum now houses the Czech Republic's Natioanl Library and well worth a visit.

Every year, sometimes twice a year I visit Prague's Old Town and I am never disappointed. I love the ambiance of people milling around and the buildings are just adorable. Commercial, it may be but its beauty outshines most other cities.

When I was a small child I always had my head in a geography book. I loved drawing and looking at colourful maps and dreaming about enchanted places miles away. My three favourite cities were Dubrovnik, Cairo and Prague.

I think I travelled to the Eastern bloc countries a lot later than most of my friends. Poland was the first country I visited 14 years ago and now I live in the country but the country that I love the most and one that I didn't visit until about 4 years ago and have been back every year since is the Czech Republic. And my favourite city is Prague.

Many people have talked about Prague over the centuries, the tributes from poets, artists and philosophers have flowed freely. I can see why. Prague is a city with a hundred towers that lies on the banks of the beautiful Vlatva river. Built on seven hills like Rome it still continues to be a golden, magical and mystical city.

Over hundreds of years, its people have been moulded by the exchange and joining together of three different powerful cultures - Czech, German and Jewish - thus creating a cultural focal point for central Europe.

Since 1989 the city has become the economic centre of the former Eastern bloc.Innumerable firms and banks have offices in the city, and new shopping centres, restaurants and hotels have been built. This westernisation would not suit many capital cities, but it certainly has not harmed business in any way. Since the Velvet Revolution, the home of the poet Vaclav Havel has become one of the most popular and busiest tourist destinations in Europe.

Unlike other central European capitals, Prague wasn't too affected from the bombing and escaped serious damage during World War II;only three important properties were burnt to the ground and during Pragues's May uprising, a German tank blasted the southern wing of the Old Town Hall.

The people of Prague have not been happy with modern buildings in the old quarter. The 1980's Nova Scena (New Scene) building next to the National Theatre found few admirers and I have to say that I do find this building totally incongruous and a bit of an 'eye sore.' Sometimes the new mixes with the old and in other parts of Prague this works perfectly well but not next to the Theatre as it spoils the total look of grandeur and looks like it has been added on.

Architectural conservation is a long standing tradition. At the end of the 19th century, conditions in the Josefov district, the old Jewish ghetto, became overcrowded and unbearable and the city council hesitated for months before deciding to start all over again. The small, dilapidated houses were demolished and four to six storey apartments were built in Historicist style.

Prague's oldest district is the Stare Mesto (Old Town). Founded in the 10th century, it became the home of the king at the beginning of 14th century. Then, in the mid 13th century, Premysl Otakar II allowed Germans to found the Mala Strana (Lesser Quarter). In the 14th century under Charles 1V, the Novo Mesto (New Town) emerged. The last district was Hradcany (Castle Quarter), which became the residence of the military governor in 1320. In 1784 these districts amalgamated under one magistrate.

I have named the five historic districts above and I will write an article on each in my journal as I think these places are well worth seeing. I would allow a day for each, or you could even cover the main buildings in three days. There are organised sigthseeing tours but personally I think these are vastly overpriced, as large parts of the city centre are pedestrianised and many sights can be reached on foot or by underground which is reasonably priced and you can buy 1, and 3 day tickets or a week ticket but remember to validate the tickets as they are very strict on this in Prague. I am afraid I was fined last year for not validating my ticket and had to pay the equivalent of £24. It's no use pretending to be a daft Brit who doesn't understand the lingo - the Metro police are wise to that trick.

Accommodation
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As Prague is often the main destination in the Czech Republic prices of accommodation are high here. I suggest you book on line before you arrive in Prague. I have turned up at 2pm in the afternoon with no accommmodation and have struggled to find somewhere. The tourist information office is a useful place to visit and they are helpful but they can only offer what they have on their books and in July and August all types of accommodation are taken up really quickly. You can expect to pay from £90 to £160 per night for a double room in a four star hotel and about £60 pays for two people in a three star hotel. Hotels with one star are best avoided. The price of private accommodation depends on the area of Prague and can vary from around £25 to even £50

Food and Drink
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There are many types of restaurants in the city now - some good some very good and some bad. For those who fancy something fresh or light the possibilities are endless, and practically all restaurants offer vegetarian food. American fast food restaurants have replaced the traditional Czech bufets and that has also meant the disappearance of the chlebicky, small open sandwiches with tasty toppings. However kiosks on street corners still serve klobasy orparky, the famous Czech sausages coated with mustard.

And that leads us to to beer. On the street stalls and the few remaining bufets is an increasingly rare Czech speciality: draught beer from the local brewery, light or dark, from 3-6 per cent alcohol. In many up market pubs beer is served in bottles or cans. Most proprietors think this is the modern way and anyway foreign visitors choose Pilsner or Budweiser. So the hundred or so regional breweries, many of which supply magnificent beers, are finding it harder to stay in business.

Although Prague is terrorised by stag parties from UK I still find the city one of the most attractive cities in Europe. As I am usually tucked up in my hotel room before 11pm I always manage to evade the hordes of 'drinkers.' I shouldn't let this put you off visiting or the crowds of tourists. Prague is a very special city and is home of some fine art nouveau architecture. Czech people are friendly and welcoming, food is good and not too overpriced and city transposrt is cheap and accessible. I only wish I had bought an apartment there ten years ago when they were dirt cheap. Now, it's too late but never to late to visit