Nan is Not a Bread

Few places in Thailand provide a more insightful glance into Thai history than Nan. The Thai migration from China into modern Thailand - and Nan – was the result of the Han Chinese movement southwards. They arrived to their new home from Yunnan, mainly from the Xishuangbanna area. The native Mon-Khmer blended into the culture of the new settlers who brought rice to the area and created unprecedented wealth. However, malaria, the hilly terrain and predators kept the population in Nan sparse.

In the late 13th century the first kingdom in Nan was created around the town of Mueang Pua (or Varanagara) by the Phukha Dynasty, which was related to Vientiane’s founders. However, since the only easy access to Nan is from the south, soon the kingdom became associated to the strong Sukhothai Kingdom. In the 14th century, the capital was moved to the location of modern Nan.

By the mid of that century, several small towns united into Nanthaburi (also called Wara Nakhon, and not to be confounded with Nonthaburi in Central Thailand) on the Nan River. In parallel Luang Prabang and the Lan Xang (Million Elephants) Kingdom in Laos were created.

By the end of the century, Nan became one of the nine northern Thai-Lao principalities that comprised Lanna Thai, namely the "Kingdom of the Million Rice Fields." In the 15th century the city was named Chiang Klang (Middle City), a reference to its position between Chiang Mai (New City) and Chiang Thong (Golden City, now Luang Prabang).

At that time, when Sukhothai declined in power, it became vassal of the Lanna Thai Kingdom. The last rivaled in strength with the Thai Ayutthaya Kingdom, but fell to the Burmese in 1558. Many of its people were deported as slaves to Burma, those who were left behind were ruled by puppet kings appointed by the Burmese.

During this period, Nan failed to liberate itself many times, which led to direct Burmese rule of Nan from 1714 onwards. King Taksin of Thonburi took Lanna in 1774 and divided it into a number of tributary kingdoms. After the Thai victory, the local dynasty regained local sovereignty, though it paid tribute first to Thonburi and later to Bangkok Index.

In 1893 the French used border disputes to provoke a crisis. French gunboats appeared at Bangkok, and demanded the cession of territories east of the Mekong. King Chulalongkorn appealed to the British, but these offered no significant help, though they made an agreement with France guaranteeing the rest of Siam. In exchange, Siam gave up the Tai-speaking Shan region of north-eastern Burma (now the Shan State in Myanmar) to the British, and ceded Laos to France. Modern Huay Xai was in this batch of annexations as well as Chantaburi. The last played later a significant role in the relations between the countries.

In 1904, in order to get back Chantaburi, Siam gave Trat to French Indochina. Two other areas west of the Mekong were ceded on the same year. Champosak, in southern Laos was the first. The second was Xaignabouli, which was Nan’s eastern side; this area became later a sore point between Thailand and Laos.

In 1931 Nan was completely annexed by the Thailand, becoming the last area to join the kingdom.

During World War II, Thailand reclaimed the previously lost territories, resulting in the French-Thai War between October 1940 and May 1941. The war ended at the instigation of the Japanese, with the French agreeing to minor territorial gains for Thailand. Xaignabouli – eastern Nan - was then recovered under the name Lan Chang Province, but returned to the pre-war status in 1946. The central Victory Monument in Bangkok commemorates this event.

Following a series of shooting incidents between Thai and Laotian forces in 1984 involving rival claims to three border villages, a major dispute arose in December 1987 over territory in the Xaignabouli Province, the same territory that was conquered by Thailand in the 1940 war against the French and returned to Indochina after WWII ended. The fighting claimed more than a thousand lives before a cease-fire was declared on February 1988 with no changes along the border.

Why Should I Care About These Details?

A good way of understanding the often minor differences between Thai towns is learning their position in the different Thai kingdoms. That’s a good way of ensuring the memories of a trip do not collapse into a single, archetypal, destination.

How Can I Memorize All That?

The modern Thai Kingdom is based in Bangkok. The one preceding it was based across the Chao Phraya River from the Rattanakosin Grand Palace, in Thonburi. This is simple.

Before that the picture was more complex. In general terms, there were three main kingdoms. Sukhothai was the first one. When it declined, two kingdoms replaced it: mighty Ayutthaya in the south (the direct predecessor of the Thonburi Kingdom) and Lanna Thai in the north. The last resembled more a confederation of small principalities than a unified kingdom.

Several sites in town give glimpses of this fascinating history.

Nan National Museum

The Nan National Museum is located on Pha Kong Road in the palace of the last two feudal lords of Nan. Built in 1903, it was donated to the government in 1931 after the Nan joined Thailand, to be used as the Province Hall.

In 1973 a new Province Hall was inaugurated and the old structure became the Nan National Museum. It is open from Monday to Saturday, between 9 AM and 4 PM, admission is 30 baht. The displays include English labels.

The ground level houses six exhibition rooms with ethnological exhibits, including the northern Thais, Thai Lü, Htin, Khamu, Mabri, Hmong and Mien. The display includes silverwork, textiles, costumes and different tools.

The second floor houses displays of local history, archaeology, architecture, Buddha images, royal regalia, weapons, ceramics and religious art; the former throne hall of Nan’s king was here.

Old Wall

Part of Nan’s Old Wall can be seen at the junction of Mahawong and Rob Muang roads, on the town’s southwestern edge. The original wall was destroyed by a flood in 1817. The remnants seen today date back to 1885.

Temples

With such a distinctive history, it is not a surprise that Nan’s temples are special. Some of them are in Lanna style while others belong to the Tai Lü heritage brought from Xishuangbanna. See the Religious Nan entry in this journal for more details.

One of the northern provinces of Thailand, Nan is located in the upper valley of the Nan River, surrounded by mountains covered with forests. The highest mountain is the roughly 2000 meter high Doi Phukha, north-east of the city of Nan towards Laos; about 10% of the population belongs to the hill tribes.

Its capital is the town of the same name; with little over twenty thousand inhabitants, it is about 670 kilometers north of Bangkok. Other settlements of interest are hill tribes’ villages, mainly Yao, Hmong, N’tin and Khamu. Theycan be visited through organized tours from Nan.

Nan River

Originating in the Nan Province, the Nan River is one of the main tributaries of the Chao Phraya River, the one dividing Bangkok.

The Nan River runs for 740km, connecting five cities along the way: Nan, Uttaradit, Phitsanulok, Phichit, and Nakhon Sawan. Near the last is the river’s confluence point with the Ping River. The Yom River – which crosses the nearby town of Phrae, joins the Nan also at Nakhon Sawan. Within the town of Nan, the narrow river has been completely embanked.

The southern part river basin provides the only easy access point to the town of Nan; all the other directions are flanked by steep hills. South of Nan, the city of Phitsanulok is also built along the embanked river. The Flaming Buddha (Phra Buddha Chinnarat in Thai) – the second holiest Buddha image in Thailand – is housed in a temple next to the river. The town is remarkable also for being the only city in Thailand where houseboats are legal.

Long Boats Racing

As in most Thailand’s areas next to big rivers, Nan features long boats races during the 10th and/or 11th lunar months (end of September, October or the beginning of November). That time of the year is the end of the rainy season, when the water levels are at their peak.

The long boats are made from dugout tree trunks and are operated by up to 60 oarsmen. In Nan, the boats are adorned with artistically designed prows. This tradition dates back to the Ayutthaya Kingdom, when the boats were part of the city’s defense.

National Parks

Nan features seven national parks; due to the province remoteness they display untouched nature and few visitors. The parks can be explored independently – a car should be rented for accessing them – or with organized tours from Nan; see the Practical Issues entry in this journal for details. Accurate information about them is available at Nan – at the travel agents – and at the parks headquarters. Three of them are especially worthy:

The Nanthaburi National Park draws his name from an old name of Nan; it should not be confounded with Nonthaburi Province in Central Thailand. This large park is located along the mountains in the western part of Nan; its highest peak is Dou Wow. Reaching almost 1700m, it is located near the park headquarters. The mountains here are covered by a dense forest which features many streams and minor waterfalls. The area is populated by the Mlabri tribe, also known as the Yellow Leaf People.

The Si Nan National Parkn (sometimes it is spelled Srinan) offers wild forests in a mountainous area, though the last is lower than in the other parks reviewed here, reaching only 1234 meters at Doi Khun Huai Heuk ("doi" means "mountain" in Thai).

The park is best known for the Doi Pha Chu Viewpoint, the Lovers’ Cliff, which was named after a local legend. At its feet are the "Sea of Fog," and the park headquarters; when the fog clears, the Nan River and surrounding forests can be enjoyed. Other attractive viewpoints exist and can be accessed through walking trails.

Doi Phukha National Park was named after the roughly 2000 m high Phukha Mountain. The park offers many trails and practically no wild-life, due to its late establishment in year 2000. Yet, the park offers a wide range of easy trails and awesome views.

The most popular trail is a scenic one of 4.5km length. It begins from the park restaurant and advances through various natural forests and reforested areas, including the Ancient Palms the park us famous for. The park offers a camping area and chalets for rent.

A word of warning: leeches abound. If one of them decides to try your blood, do not detach it forcefully: that’s the way to get an infection. The best is to pour salt over it or to approach a flame to it (always carry a lighter!).

Modern Nan is a pleasantly isolated backwaters location between Northern Thailand and Laos. It offers several attractions ranging from natural views to unique Thai Buddhist temples.

The small, elongated town is built along the Nan River west bank; three bridges span the river and connect the town with nearby villages. Downtown Nan is delimited by the airport to the northwest and Wat Phumin to the south. It widest point is less than ten blocks long. The town’s focal point is at the junction of the three parallel roads, Pha Kong, Mahayot and Sumonthewarat with Suriyapong Road, which is perpendicular to them. Sumonthewarat and Anantaworattidet roads form the main commercial quarter. Due to the unique history of the town, its unusual temples are worth a detailed visit and are the main topic of this entry.

Thai Lue

Several of the more important temples in town are built in what is known as Thai Lue style. Thai Lue is another name for the Dai people, a subgroup of the Tai people originating in Xishuangbanna (or Sipsongpanna in the Tai languages, the "Twelve Thousand Rice Fields" kingdom). Culturally and linguistically they are almost undistinguishable from modern Thai people; actually Thais consider all the Tai groups (including Shan and Zhuang) as part of the same culture. The ethnic differentiation originates in the Chinese government classification of its population and have filtrated western languages. Closer to their original land than most of Thailand, the temples are here more faithful to historical styles.

Wat Phra That Chae Haeng

Out of town – a couple of kilometers southeast of the southern bridge – is the holiest temple in the province. It dates back to 1355 and features a 55m high golden chedi in Lanna style within a walled enclosure. Built in Thai Lue style, the Ordination Hall (bot) features a triple-tiered roof with carved wooden eaves and naga serpents relieves. The chedi is said to contain a relic from Sukhothai. Located on a hill, it provides good views of the surroundings.

Wat Phra That Chang Kham

The temple is conveniently placed close to the intersection of Mahaphrom and Pha Kong roads, the latest is a main north-south axis in town. In front of it is the Nan National Museum and on its southern kitty corner is Wat Phumin. This is the second holiest temple in the province.

The main vihaan (Assembly Hall), reconstructed in 1458, houses a huge seated Buddha image and various murals. Lanna-period scrolls in Lanna script display Buddhist scriptures and texts on history, law and astrology.

However, its main attraction is a stuppa dating back to the 14th century. It is held by 24 sculpted upper halves of elephants; similar ones can be seen only in Sukhothai and adjacent Si Satchanalai.

Wat Phumin

Near the last temple, Wat Phumin features an unusual central cruciform structure housing the bot and the viharn, which was constructed in 1596 and restored in the late 19th century. It is built as if sitting on the backs of two large naga serpents and is one of the most distinctive Thai Lue style wats in town.

Twelve teak pillars support the roof and the heavily decorated interior features four Sukhothai style Buddhas facing the different directions. They are in the "Buddha Invoking Mother-Earth to be His Witness" position, with a hand pointed to the earth and the fingers touching the ground. The murals are well preserved and show scenes of the local life. French people were added to them during a restoration process at the end of the 19th century.

Wat Hua Khuang

This temple is north and diagonally opposite to Wat Phra That Chang Kham. It features a distinctive Lanna-style stupa with a Luang Prabang-style carved wooden veranda. The temple's founding date is unknown; due to its style it is clearly one of the oldest in town.

Wat Suan Tan

Located on the street of the same name, this temple features a 40m high stupa in Khmer style (also known as a prang) dating back to the 15th century. Phra Chao Thong Thip is the name of a large bronze Buddha image placed there by Chiang Mai’s king around 1450.

Wat Min Muang

This temple is near Wat Phumin; it features heavy bas-relief stucco on its external walls and – inside - murals showing Nan people life.

Wat Min Muang is notorious for housing the 3 meter high City Pillar. Located within a pavilion, the pillar is topped with a four-faced Brahma, representing the four virtues on Buddhism. Thai cities always include a pillar - a symbolic representation of a linga - which is considered to host the city’s guardian spirit or deity. As such, these places are located in the vicinity of – or within - larger temples and are an official center of worship for the city’s welfare, though usually they are the preferred temples for fertility rites as well.

Wat Phaya Phu

On Phaya Phu Road and west of the Police Station, this temple dates back to the 14th century; it features two Buddha images enshrined within a chedi

Wat Phra That Khao Noi

Two kilometers west of Nan, this temple is atop the Khao Noi Hill, and is remarkable only because it allows excellent views of the town.

Is That All?

Definitely not. As most Thai town, Nan seems to have a temple on every other block. Yet the list here includes the main temples in town.

Getting that Perfect Gift

Local textiles always make good souvenirs: light, can be folded and cause no problems with customs. The Nan area is known for Thai Lu, a cloth with red and black geometric, floral and animal designs on white cotton. A related cloth is the Lai Nam Lai. It shows patterns of streams, rivers and waterfalls. Hill tribes’ textiles – mainly Hmong and Mien – are also widely available.

Other popular souvenirs are local music instruments. The saloh looks like a violin and the sung is similar to a guitar. Wood carvings, silverware and other hill tribes’ handicraft are also popular. Good places for browsing these items are Hill Tribe House on 436, Sumonthewarat Road, Pongparn on 10/4 Suriyapong Road, Lan Nan Som Noek on 347/7 Sumonthewarat Road and finally – and mainly for clothes, Jaangtrakoon on Sumonthewarat Road.

Getting Sun Lotion after Midnight

Despite its size, Nan features 7-Eleven branches that are open at all hours and sell western products.

Two department stores can be visited in town: Naradee Department Store on 400/1, Sumonthewarat Road and Nara Hyper Mart on Sumonthewarat Road. Tesco Lotus has a large supermarket on the Phrae Road, just outside downtown.

Paying for that Nice Hill Tribe Cloth

Remote areas raise concerns about money issues: are there any ATMs? Do they accept international cards? However, this is Thailand and ATMs can be found under every second tree. All the main Thai banks are active in town, mainly along Sumonthewarat and Anantaworarittidet (also spelled Anantaworarichides) roads, especially next to the Dhevaraj Hotel (see accommodations section in this entry).

Finding Fried Insects Curry

Nan is known in Thailand for its Som Si Thong (golden oranges), which are of deeper color and more aromatic than those grown in the central plains. They are available on December and January.

Northern Thai cuisine is the rule of Nan markets. The Ratchaphatsadu Market, between the Sumonthewarat and Khao Luang road is a good place for trying the local cuisine during the light hours. Meat on rice and curries are recommended. After dark, a good option is the Night Market on the Pha Kong and Anantaworarittidet roads junction. Open until well after midnight, it offers excellent grilled meats, using a slightly different spicing of the food – despite being geographically in Northern Thailand, the food shows Isaan and Laotian influences. Accordingly, som tam (papaya) salad is available.

The best place for a coffee is Dhevee Coffee Shop, located within Dhevaraj Hotel (466, Sumonthewarat Road, near the Ratchaphatsadu Market), one of the most luxurious hotels in town. The coffee shop offers also breakfast and lunch buffets in a hybrid Thai-Western style; at night it adds musical entertainment by local stars.

Falling Asleep

Nan Guesthouse, Thanon Mahaphom 57/16 is the perfect place for backpackers. Placed within a classical Thai woodhouse, it offers basic rooms with shared bathrooms for 100B per night and with private bathrooms for twice that. The place is adequately placed near Wat Chang Kham and Wat Phumin two of the main attractions in town, and just a couple of blocks south from the modern center.

A more upmarket option is the already mentioned Dhevaraj Hotel. A single deluxe room costs almost 1000 baht, a royal suite costs 4400 baht; the room are more than worth these fees. The rate includes a buffet breakfast at the Dhevee Coffee Shop. The hotel offers also a swimming pool, internet, bikes, traditional Thai massage, and a good coffee shop among other services. Maybe the denizens overstate its fees: three bank branches surround it. The above mentioned Naradee Department Store is on the next block.

Uploading Pictures

Internet kiosks abound in town, though their speed allows only basic activities.

Booking Treks

The national parks, hill tribes and other nearby attractions described in this journal can be explored with the help of Fhu Travel Service, on 433/4, Sumonthewarat Road. They specialize also in short treks.

Moving Around

Nan is tiny, the best is to explore it by foot; even the airport can be easily reached by foot from downtown. The river promenade is very attractive for late afternoon strolls.

In the Backpackers’ Universe, Nan owns its fame to the bus line traveling along the old route to Chiang Rai.

Connections

The city is connected to five main destinations: Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Phrae, Phitsanulok and Bangkok. However, the best is arriving to Nan from the south – from Phrae or Phitsanulok – and then leaving northwards to Chiang Rai with the bus mentioned above; this way allows the best views. Nan is best connected to nearby Phrae, many buses per day span the 117km for 47 baht.

Considerations

Nan is tiny. Justifying a special trip is difficult; thus the town is better approached as part of a trip around Thailand's north, while traveling between Chiang Rai and Phitsanulok. Roughly circular, the north’s shape suggests drawing a circle to cover it efficiently. Moreover, the climate in the north is the best in Thailand, thus it is the perfect place for acclimatizing to the heat and humidity during the first leg of a long trip in the area.

Why northwards? If traveling in the opposite direction – from Chiang Rai to Nan – the bus travels downwards and speeds up, providing fewer opportunities to enjoy the area’s lush nature.

Crossroads

Phitsanoluk is the ideal place for starting such a big loop around Thailand's north due its position as the biggest crossroad in the country, sitting at the main connection of the North, with Isaan and Bangkok. There are buses from here practically to all of the north; buses from everywhere to everywhere stop at its bus terminal at all hours. Of course, a shorter trip to Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle through Nan is also enjoyable. The area is friendly enough to allow immediate changes in the plans.

Stopover

North of Phitsanulok, Phrae is the first town reached. Air-con buses from Phitsanulok to Phare cost 116 baht and leave at 7:00, 9:10, 11:30 and 15:00. Placed by the Yom River, this secondary town was never important enough to enjoy a development process, thus it offers the visitor views of a classical Thai town, though all it is left of the old walls is an elevated path.

A regular bus from Phrae to Nan travels the 117km way for just 47B.

In the Backpackers’ Universe

Once in Nan, and after enjoying its attractions, everything is ready for the Old Route to Chiang Rai.

The new and spacious bus terminal of Nan is conveniently located close to the town’s center and has an unusual row of shops before the entrance that includes a comfortable restaurant, offering thus the perfect opportunity to enjoy a light meal before the trip and to buy some snacks.

Two routes lead from Nan to Chiang Rai; the newer passes through Phayao and is spanned by several buses during the day. Except for its southern side, the Nan Valley is surrounded by mountains, the new road uses a low pass to get from there to Phayao, and then it continues through the northern plains to Chiang Rai.

However, the famous and scenic one advances through routes 1080, 1148 and then 1021. Only one bus per day uses this road; it leaves at 09:00, arrives at 15:00 and costs 130B. Staying overnight at the town of Chiang Kham, crossed around 13:00, is possible.

The bus belongs to the oldest type traveling in Thailand; the driver’s private fan is the only available air-conditioner. Opening the windows allows the hot breeze in and clear views of the landscape. A bit tired due to its age, the bus slows down along the steep parts of the road and completely stops for short breaks at the towns of Chiang Kham and Thoeng. The route is a tortured and narrow one, advancing between steep hills and the Nan River. Beautiful and slow, few trips in modern Thailand are capable to transfer the traveler into another era; it doesn’t take much imagination to compare this old bus to the travel elephants featured in many of the Thai legends.