The Royal City of the Lotus Blossom

Isaan and the Khorat Plateau

Isaan is the northeast lobe in Thailand’s map; accordingly, the name is derived from a Sanskrit word that means "northeast." The political division follows here a geographical one since it occupies the Khorat Plateau, and is bordered by the Mekong River to the north and east, along the border with Laos, and the Prachinburi mountains south of Nakhon Ratchasima. To the west it is separated from Northern and Central Thailand by the Phetchabun mountain range. Cambodia lies to the southeast.

The plateau is named after its biggest city, Nakhon Ratchasima, which is often nicknamed Khorat. "Khorat" evolved from "Angkor Raj," namely the "City of the King."

Two plains form the plateau: the southern Khorat Plain - drained by the Mun and Chi rivers – and the northern Sakon Nakhon Plain - drained by the Loei and Songkhram rivers. The Phu Phan Mountains separate between them.

The Mekong's main Thai tributary is the Mun River, which originates in the Khao Yai National Park near Khorat and runs east, joining the Mekong in Ubon Ratchathani Province. The smaller Loei and Songkhram rivers are also tributaries of the Mekong, the former flowing north through Loei Province and the latter flowing east through Udon Thani, Sakon Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom and Nong Khai provinces.

Agriculture is still the main economic activity, but a large industrial area is emerging near Nakhon Ratchasima. The area is the poorest in Thailand. Despite being considered as the less fertile part of Thailand, Isaan is very green, especially the plains surrounding the Mekong.

Four main cities are in Isaan: Nakhon Ratchasima, Udon Thani, Khon Kaen, and Ubon Ratchathani. The first three are along the National Highway 2, which connects Thailand with Vientiane, through the Friendship Bridge near Nong Khai.

History and Culture

Isaan is culturally different from its neighbors. Until the 13th century, the area was under the control of the Khmer Empire. After its fall, it was annexed by the Lan Xang Kingdom, which is considered to be the first Lao kingdom. Since the 17th century the area was vassal to Siam and the Franco-Siamese treaties of 1893 and 1904 defined it as part of Siam. Then the name of Isaan was adopted; meaning "northeast" it makes sense only if the area is part of Thailand.

The main language spoken in the area is Lao, though it is written here with the Thai alphabet. Thai – which is very similar – is widely spoken and used in all official issues (for example the signs in the bus terminals are in Thai). Khmer is widely spoken in regions near the Cambodian border (Buriram, Surin, and Sisaket); other languages are spoken in very limited areas. The Khorat dialect spoken in Nakhon Ratchasima acts as a linguistic buffer between areas speaking Thai and Isaan; it shares characteristics with both of them.

Isaan is known for its traditional music – called "moh lam," its wide use of sticky rice and chilies in the food, and Muay Thai kickboxing. For the visitors arriving at the area after having been in Laos, the similarity with the culture of that country is obvious; especially when contemplating local temples and eating Isaan food. The population is mainly Theravada Buddhist, though the Roamn Catholic Church and other Christian denominations are present in most sizeable towns and cities.

Ubon Ratchathani Province

Ubon Ratchathani is the province located at the southeastern corner of Isaan, bordering with Laos and Cambodia. Its capital is the city of the same name.

The Mun River dissects the province and meets the Mekong in Khong Chiam. South of there, the area where the borders of Thailand, Laos and Cambodia meet is known as the Emerald Triangle, in contrast to the Golden Triangle in the north of Thailand. Why Emerald? The first glimpse of the lush, emerald-green area provides the answer.

Three national parks are in the province: Phu Chong Na Yoi is in the area of the Emerald Triangle and offers treks along mountainous trails, views from imposing cliffs, terraces and waterfalls, as well as the Phlan Yao Rock Garden. Phu Hin Dang is the name of the cliff viewpoint to Lao and Cambodia. The second park, Kaeng Tana, is in the Khong Chiam District and is named after an island in the Mun River; it features the largest rapids of that river. The third, named Pha Taem, features hills, waterfalls and plateaus as well as numerous prehistoric cave paintings depicting scenes of fishing, rice farming, figures of people, animals, hands, "tum" (funnel fish traps), and various geometric designs.

Ubon is known also for its forests, of which are 50 denominated as National Preserved Forests; those include Teng-Rung forests, red forests and others.

Ubon Ratchathani City

In the late eighteenth century, King Rama I offered a noble title to a local leader capable of uniting the settlements of the modern Ubon area into one town and helping to keep the kingdom’s borders.

In 1786, this was accomplished by Thao Khamphong, a Laotian prince that fled Laos in 1779 after the massacre of King Siriboonsarn of Vientiane. He founded Ubon Ratchathani Srivanalai in 1792; the name means "Royal City of the Lotus Flower." Accordingly, the provincial seal features a pond with a lotus flower and leaves in a circular frame, symbolizing the founders’ community.

Since then and until the Franco-Siamese treaties of 1893 and 1904, Ubon paid tribute to Siam. Afterwards, it was annexed and became a province (which included territories that later were separated into new provinces).

As other cities in Thailand, Ubon (as its name is commonly shortened) was developed as the result of the Vietnam War because the Americans placed an air base near it.

Small and dilapidated, Ubon provides a comfortable environment for visiting its main views. As in most Thai towns, most of these are related to religious structures. However, due to Ubon’s location near the Emerald Triangle, the temples in town feature many Laotian and Khmer characteristics; occasionally, Burmese and Vietnamese touches can also be seen.

Wat Supattanaram Woraviharn

Located on Somdet Road and next to the Mun River, this is a royal temple of the third grade and the first temple of the Dharmanyutika (or Dhammayut) Sect in Isaan. Built in 1853, it features a Buddha image at the Ordination Hall. The present Ordination Hall dates back to 1936, is 20m wide, 34m long and reaches 22m heights if counting the Cho-Fa, the curved spirits exit located atop Thai temples roofs. The access staircase is flanked by two lions – in Khmer style – instead of naga serpents which are more popular in Thailand. Its white facade and columns on the side walls are rather different from the typical Thai temple.

Wat Nong Bua

Located three kilometers out of Ubon along road 212 (a side road connects the temple with the highway), Wat Nong Bua is one of the few temples in Thailand featuring a rectangular chedi, named Srimahapho. This is an imitation of Chedi Buddhakhaya in India and was built to commemorate the 25th century of Buddhism. It contains a relic the Buddha brought from Bangkok in 1959.

Wat Chaeng

Located on Sapphasit Road, this temple seems to be taken out of Vintiane’s streets. Though rather small, it was built in Lao style with a roof wider than the structure and resting over four elegant columns at its facade.

Wat Tung Sri Muang

Located on Luang Road, this temple dates back to the early 19th century. It is famous for having a replica of the Buddha footprint brought from Wat Srageath and housed in a Lao style hall.

An important structure in the temple grounds is Hor Phra Traipidok, a Buddhist library. Built in 1842, it is also known as Hor Trai Klang Nam, because it is located in a pond ("nam" means "water"). Its architecture is a mixes three styles: Thai, Lao and Burmese. One of the Buddha images in the temple - named Phra Chao Yai Sri Muang - was cast during the reign of Phra Pra Thum Worarat Suriyawong (Kham Phong), the founder of Ubon Ratchathani, in 1792.

Wat Sri Ubon Rattanaram

Known also as Wat Sri Tong, this is a royal temple on Uparath Road, near the City Hall. Its ordination hall was built in 1855 as a replica of the Marble Temple - Wat Benjamabopit - in Bangkok. It houses the Topaz Buddha (Phra Kaeo Bussarakham, "topaz" is used to differentiate it from the "emerald" in Bangkok, the Thai term means "glass") in the posture of Subduing Mara, which dates back to the Chiang Saen period. Apparently it was brought from Sri Sattanakanahut in Vientiane, by the Laotian prince that founded Ubon.

Wat Pah Nana Chat

Despite being outside Ubon (on Highway 226 and 14 kilometers from the city), this temple is of special interest to foreigners since it is an international temple, housing many non-Thai Theravada Buddhist monks. The foreign monks study and practice Vipassana meditation, speaking in Thai and praying in Pali; the temple is known for its strictness.

Wat Sa Prasan Suk

This wat is outside Ubon, on road 2050, near the airport. It is famous for a special Ubosot shaped as the Suphannahong Royal Barge. The Bot or Ubosoth (Ordination Hall) of a Thai temple is the name of the sacred building into which only monks enter; it contains a Buddha statue.

Thung Sri Muang

Thung Sri Muang is an open ground in the middle of the city very, similar to Sanam Luang in Bangkok; accordingly, it was reserved as a place for the governor to perform a rice growing ceremony. King Rama V put a stop to the ceremony and the area became a recreation and festival celebration center. The City Pillar Shrine, built in 1972, is south of the field.

Ubon National Museum

This low building was built in 1873 and served as the City Hall. Later, it became a provincial museum displaying the province's history, geological features, artifacts, and local crafts like basketry, brass, hand-woven fabric, and musical instruments.

Hat Khu Duea

This beach by the Mun River is 12km from downtown, along Highway 24, it features many restaurants on rafts.

Other important structures in town include:

Monument of Phra Pathum Worarat Suriyawong: the monument honors the founder of Ubon Ratchathani.

Statue of Somdet Phra Maha Wirawong or Tisso Uan: the statue honors a famous monk.

Monument of Goodness: was built by WWII POWs, in honor of the generosity and goodness of Ubon Ratchathani’s people.

Sculpture of Harmony and Progress: this sculpture represents the harmony between Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam.

The Golden Jubilee Art and Cultural Centre: this 7-storey building commemorates the anniversary of the king’s accession to the throne.

Remote places hold the promise of unique souvenirs, festivals and food. Ubon Ratchathani is not different.

Festivals

It is difficult to mention a festival related exclusively to Ubon. Songkram - the traditional Thai New Year – is held here in April or May (the event is defined according to the lunar calendar and thus varies in its date) and includes playing with water, fairs, sport contests, and a music and a beauty contest. The Flower Festival takes place every February at the Thung Kham Nam Saep Stadium. It features floral floats, and decorative and flowering plant contests.

The Illuminated Boat Procession takes place every October, marking the end of the Buddhist Lent. Boats belonging to the different temples float on the river near the Rattanakosin Bicentennial Bridge. A related event – that can be witnessed also in other along the Mekong River – are the traditional long-boats races.

The Bun Bungfai Rocket Festival is celebrated in most of Isaan, but especially in Yasothon, which in the past was part of the Ubon Ratchathani Province. The rockets are fired just before the rainy season and are believed to bring rain.

Souvenirs and Khit

Ubon Ratchathani local products include hand-woven cotton, khit pillows, silk, brassware, and basketry. Of these, khit is by far the best souvenir. The name refers to a woven cloth produced in traditional looms. More often than not, it appears in red, purple and dark green, featuring complex geometric patterns of a darker color pattern over a lighter background. Some patterns include shapes of animals living in the area, mainly fishes, elephants and turtles.

Despite being a tradition of Isaan in general, Ubon is one of the main areas offering khit. The most popular item made of khit is khit pillows. These can be purchased at the local markets, or in several shops catering for tourists. Souvenir shops are located along Khuan Thani Road near the Ratchathani Hotel, though Fai Khen, on Thanon Chayangkun close to the intersection Khwaeng Kan Thang, and Kham Pun, on Thanon Pha Daeng, are worth a special visit.

Isaan is the main producer of Thai silk, buying it here is less expensive than in Bangkok.

Food

Isaan features one of the most distinctive variants of the Thai food. For those that reached the area after visiting Laos it is obvious the local food is identical to the Laotian cuisine minus the French touches introduced to the last by the colonial period. All the Laotian hits can be enjoyed here, except for the baguettes and coffee. Yet, even this downscaled version is irresistible.

Good places for sampling the fermented pork sausages and mu yo preserved pork are Sai Krok Nuan Prang, on Thanon Phalochai near the central hospital, and Ubon Mu Yo on Thanon Khuean Thani.

Samchai is a kind of local fast food empire. Samchai Kai Yang (Sam Chai Grilled Chicken) offers that dish on Phalochai Road, while Samchai Coffee offers hot drinks at 56-58, Phadaeng Road.

At the local markets it is worth looking for Plah Kluk Ka-min, a fresh fish coated with a paste of garlic, turmeric and salt and stuffed with leaves before being grilled. Another dishes that can be found in the markets and restaurants include the tam mak hung, which in central Thailand is known as som tam (papaya salad), laap (meat and mint salad) and gai yang (grilled chicken). In the markets, insects (fresh or fried) and every imaginable type of meat are sold. Among the last are tiny dried crabs (eaten with their shells), Khem Mak Nat (black-eared catfish or iridescent shark-catfish in salty water with pineapples), dried fish, dried frog skin, and others. Nam phla (literally "water fish") is a popular sauce prepared with fermented fish; sometimes it contains parasites thus it should be avoided. In any case its smell is a powerful enough deterrent.

I was delighted to discover K P House on Sapphasit Road. They serve Khai Kratha, which is the main breakfast dish in Vientiane; due to the lack of baguettes in Thailand, the fried eggs on a pan are served here with toasts. Other dishes include rice porridge with chopped pork, sliced fish or green peas and Chinese noodle soup with pork or fish.

As in the rest of Isaan, the food is consumed here mainly with sticky rice. Served in bamboo bowls, the rice is picked up with the fingers of the right hand pressed into a ball and dipped into the sauces and meats dishes placed nearby. Soup is drunk with an Asian spoon (short and deep), though the chunks of meat, noodles, vegetables and every other solid bit in it is eaten with chopsticks. The soup is spiced with generous amounts of chili or with lemon and mint leaves.

Clothes

While visiting Isaan is hard not to notice that traditional people dress differently than in other parts of Thailand. Women use a sarong similar to the one used in Laos with an embroidered border at the hem. Men wear a length of cloth as a belt or be put on the head as sun protection.

Houses

Thai culture is deeply related to rivers. Traditional houses are built of wood and on stilts, so that protection against floods and a storage place are created. Due to the rapid modernization of the kingdom, this type of houses is disappearing, though in all of Isaan it is still popular. These houses feature a large jar (called ohng) for storing water next to their entrance.

Moh Lam

Moh Lam is the name of the traditional music of Isaan; kantrum is the parallel of the large Khmer minority in the area. The music is often played on improvised stages next to temples during the weekends; the shows include live performances by actors performing short plays between (and sometimes during) the songs. Food stalls surround the performance.

Muay Thai

The area is known for the quality of its Muay Thai kickboxers. Treating the locals respectfully is thus advised.

Despite being only about 630 kilometers away from Bangkok, Ubon feels like a much more remote place. It is one of the kingdom forgotten corners. Except for the mountainous areas of the north, few areas feel more rural. Yet, Ubon is exceptionally well connected to Bangkok and to all the main cities and towns in Isaan.

By Road

Isaan – as most of Thailand – features an extensive network of roads and highways, centered on the Thanon Mitraphap ("Friendship Highway," or National Highway 2) built by the United States to supply its air bases in the area during the Vietnam War. At the highway’s end, the Saphan Mitraphap or Friendship Bridge over the Mekong River connects the area – from the town of Nong Khai – with Vientiane, the capital of Laos.

There are two ways of reaching Ubon from Bangkok by car. The first leaves Bangkok northwards through National Highway #1 until Saraburi and then advances eastwards through National Highway #2 until Nakhon Ratchasima. From there take Highway #226, crossing Buri Ram, Surin and Si Sa Ket until Ubon Ratchathani is reached.

The second way reaches National Highway #2 in a similar way, but then this road is followed until Sikhio. Then, turn into Highway #24, and advance through Chok Chai, Nang Rong, Prasat, Det Udom and Warin Chamrap until Ubon is reached.

Buses to Ubon leave from Bangkok’s Northern Terminal - Mo Chit – every day. It is possible to take day buses, night buses, regular and VIP ones. As well, it is possible to break the trip, by traveling first to Khorat or any other major town along National Highway #2 (Khon Kaen and Udon Thani offer good connections).

All the towns and villages in the province are interconnected with songthaew ("two-rows," a pick-up trucks with two rows of benches in its back).

A feature of the Thai roads is that all the signs are bilingual in Thai and Roman script, though the last suffer from various coexisting forms of Thai names transliterations. The main highways’ lanes are usually separated; making a U-turn is possible using special U-turn ramps next to the main towns.

By Train

The State Railway of Thailand has four lines of trains lead out of Bangkok; they are called according to the direction they travel to: Northern, Northeastern, Eastern and Southern, the last is connected to the Malaysian railways.

Located on Rama IV Road, the Bangkok Railway Station is easy to find; nowadays there is a Metro station right at its door, Bangkok's Chinatown is across the highway. The Hualampong Station was built between 1910 and 1916, and modernized in 1998; its huge hangar features short towers at its corners and is one of the best known landmarks in Bangkok.

The station provides 24-hour service, including a post office, money exchange services, a Thai food plaza, bookstores in Thai and English, information booths, luggage deposit, hotel reservations and fast food joints, including a Dunkin's Donuts branch.

The Northeastern Line leaves from there and reaches Nong Khai, through Nakhon Ratchasima, Ubon Ratchathani, Khon Kaen and Udon Thani, with the help of two lines.

There is a single special express train leaving Bangkok daily at 5:45 AM, but it reaches only Ubon; in the opposite direction special express trains leave from Ubon (2:50 PM, 7:05 PM from Si Saket); slower trains reach Nong Khai. The best option from Bangkok is the express diesel railcar, leaving at 6:30 PM and reaching Nong Khai at 5:05 AM; other express trains leave Bangkok between 8:20 AM and 9:50 PM (6 trains). A full trip from Bangkok to Nong Khai in first class costs 1217 baht and longs ten hours.

By Air

Thai Airways has several daily flights connecting Bangkok with Ubon Ratchathani. Air Asia operates two flights every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The flight time is about an hour. The domestic flights to and from Bangkok are operated out of Don Muang, the former Bangkok international airport on the northern outskirts of Bangkok.

Inside Ubon

City buses connect all the main areas in town; they feature a fixed fare of five baht. Tuk-tuks (and samlor tricycles) charge around thirty baht per kilometer.

Around Ubon

Chaw Wattana (at 39/8 Suriyat Road) and Budget Rent a Car (at the arrival hall of the airport) offer rented cars. This is an essential service if wishing to visit areas like Khong Chiam, Chong Mek and the Emerald triangle (all reviewed in this journal).

The bus terminal located at Chayangkun Road connects the town with nearby provinces and locations within the Ubon Ratchathani Province. The main destinations are:

Buriram (ordinary bus 66B, air-con bus 148B), Kantharalak (for Khao Phra Viharn 20B), Khong Chiam (40B), Khon Kaen (66B, 148B), Khorat (149B, 260B), Mukdahan (55B, 105B), Phibun Mangsahan (22B), Prakhon Chai (for Phanom Rung, ordinary 84B), Roi Et (61B, 99B), Sakon Nakhon (101B, 1738B), Si Saket (29B, 60B), Surin (72B, 129B), That Phanom (65B, 140B), Udon Thani (122B, 219B), and Yasothon (43B, 76B).

By River

Despite the Mekong being a mighty and wide river, there is little traffic using it due to rapids and a very strong seasonal difference in its flow. Near Ubon, the Second Thai–Lao Friendship connects Mukdahan, in Thailand with Savannakhet in Laos.

Khong Chiam

Khong Chiam is a district of the Ubon Ratchathani Province, located at the meeting point of the Mun and Mekong rivers. Its capital is the town of the same name, which is the easternmost point in Thailand. The best way of exploring the area is with a rented car.

The Mun River (pronounce "moon") connects the Khao Yai National Park near Nakhon Ratchasima with the Mekong River near Khong Chiam. It flows for approximately 750km, crossing Ubon Ratchathani in its way. The Kaeng Tana and Pha Taem national parks are located along it in the Khong Chiam district.

Hired boats leave from Khong Chiam to Kaeng Tana Waterfall and to Mae Nam Song Si. The last name means "River(s) Two Colors" and refers to the fact that the Mekong is muddy brown, while the Mun is bluish.

Since the Thai culture was born along rivers, they feel doubly comfortable here. The locals took advantage of the situation by placing boat restaurants along the Mun banks, just below the town’s beautiful promenade. A local companion to help with the formalities is recommended but not essential. The boats provide a very suitable environment for enjoying the meal; they offer shade but do not have walls, letting the lazy river refreshing breeze in. The most recommended dishes are the Tom Yam Kung, served here in a traditional heater, and giant river shrimps.

If getting stuck in town after dark, Khong Chiam Marina Resort (on 77 Mu 1) offers good rooms for a thousand baht or less, depending on their facilities.

Chong Mek

Further south is Chong Mek, the only land border-cross between Thailand and Laos. The place is peculiar for being more accessible from Laos than from Thailand.

This is quite a strong statement: in Thailand there are twelve-lane highways connecting any two villages and VIP buses using them at all times, while Laos hardly has tiny roads connecting its major cities and decrepit old buses carrying enough bananas on their roofs to bend them in. Yet, in Laos one bus from Pakse, a bridge over the Mekong River and a forty kilometers way do the trick, while in Thailand the road to Chong Mek is a very secondary one and most Thai people look at this area as the local equivalent to Russian Siberia.

Low green hills, a classical green-roofed Laotian structure hosting the immigration authorities and a quite large market in the Laotian side with a small "duty free", all of them catering to the Thai visitors, summarize the place.

If not crossing any deeper into Laos, a visa is not needed. Drop a five baht coin at the Thai immigration stall by the border, pick up the receipt and cross into Laos.

At the other side of the border, a basic restaurant serves Laotian coffee and snacks. Surrounding it is a huge market. Many Thais come here specifically to buy birds, and I was surprised to see owls and other endangered species for sale. Another unusual product for sale is betel nut; its users, usually old women, are easily recognizable since the chewing of the nut causes a reaction that turns the teeth and gums into a deep red color and from time to time they spit a dark red liquid that looks like blood. The use is very uncommon these days and seeing it in a market in the quantities seen in Chong Mek is rare and adds some spice to the visit.

Short trips into Laos are offered by travel agencies in Ubon Ratchathani. Yet, if planning a trip to Laos it is worth considering that traveling there is difficult and often painful (try sitting for two days in a fifty years old bus traveling on a decrepit mountainous road and you’ll understand my feelings). Thus entering through the south (at Chong Mek) and leaving from the north (Huay Xai) instead of making a round trip in the country is recommended.

The Emerald Triangle

If traveling the area with a rented car, a visit to Chong Mek is best combined with a visit to the Phu Chong Na Yoi National Park. The last is on the Emerald Triangle and offers treks along mountainous trails, views from imposing cliffs, terraces and waterfalls, as well as the Phlan Yao Rock Garden. Phu Hin Dang is the name of the cliff viewpoint to Laos and Cambodia.

The area does not offer good accommodations, planning on spending the night back in Ubon Ratchathani (or Mukdahan to the north) is recommended.