Rambling Krung Thep

Every country has at least one capital city. Many cities have attractive temples and sumptuous palaces. Moreover, a few cities are bigger than Bangkok. Yet, the combination of attractions we witness in Bangkok is unique, not only in size, but mainly in its cultural richness.

A week in Bangkok. Nobody knows exactly how many people live in Krung Thep, the City of Angels. In a good year over twelve million tourists pass through the city’s international airport. If ignoring the official limits, finding the city’s edge is almost impossible. How to explore such a colossus in a week?

There is no definitive answer to that, several approaches can be adopted. Yet, any attempt to cover a substantial part of the city must divide it into areas; this journal attempts to do so in such a way that a different part of the city is explored every day.

1. Royal and Religious Bangkok

The views of royal and religious Bangkok would probably be the epitome of a visit to the kingdom. Highly representative of the Thai culture, these are incomparable and give the city its peculiar look. "A temple on every corner" seems to be the Thai motto; Bangkok is home to hundreds of temples, including three of the highest rank in the complex hierarchical classification of Thai temples. These are Wat Mahathat (home to the Emerald Buddha), Wat Ratchapradit and Wat Ratchaburana. These structures are Bangkok’s soul; they transform it into something special and give it shape and color.

The Royal and Religious Bangkok entry in this journal offers a feasible tour of the main structures that can be accomplished in an easy day. Many of these structures are along Thanon Ratchadamnoen, which is the heart and soul of the city.

The Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Sanam Luang, the Democracy Monument, the Black Metal temple, the Golden Mount and another four royal attractions: the Royal Plaza, the Ananta Samakorn Throne Hall, the Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall and the Vimanmek Mansion are the highlights of this day.

2. Gardens and Parks

Despite its reputation as a polluted city, Bangkok offers beautiful parks and gardens. As with royal Bangkok, the main attractions in this category are close to each other and can be explored as a group.

Lumphini Park is the largest in Bangkok and with no doubt one of the main attractions in town; few metropolises in the world can pride themselves on such awesome green space. Its location between Sukhumvit and Silom roads make it an unavoidable stop.

Not far from there, Benchasiri Park looks attractive on the verge of irresistible and provides a wonderful break while in downtown.

Chatuchak Park is one of the largest parks in Bangkok and the most natural destination after visiting the adjacent Chatuchak Market. Since the market is the largest in Bangkok and a main tourists’ magnet, visiting this park is an unavoidable pleasure.

Missing the Central World Plaza, the huge structure at the important Ratchadamri and Ploen Chit junction, is difficult, especially since that’s where the two Skytrain lines meet. It is difficult to define it as a park or a garden, since it is completely paved and does not feature even one spot of green; yet, two temples, the Ganesh and Trimurati Shrines, occupy one of its corners. One of them features a large pond of water, adding thus a touch of nature to one of the most developed areas in the city.

3. Shopping Paradise

The main shopping area of Bangkok is a long strip running along Rama I, Ploen Chit and Sukhumvit roads. The Skytrain travels along the whole of it, though only by walking it is possible to explore all the options in this dense concentration of malls.

The main shopping malls in the area include those in the Siam Square Area, Central
World, Amarin, Central Chidlom and Paragon, but this list is not complete; others are reviewed in a general entry of the Shopping in Bangkok journal. All of them are characterized by offering a wide range of products, a more specific categorization is offered in the specific entries.

This area can be explored in a day – if making only very short shopping stops – and can be combined with a visit to Silom. A less flashy and more specialized area is Silom where many representatives of foreign companies are located. The Patpong Night Market is located near its northern end.

However, among Bangkok's main streets, Silom Road offers the biggest diversity of all. Probably that is the result of its access to the Chao Praya River, to the Lumphini Park and its hosting the main commercial quarter of the city.

The Patpong alleys have more to offer than the dubious establishments that gave them their fame; they host one of the most extravagant night markets in Bangkok. It is worth a visit during the late afternoon or the early evening hours, before the place gets unpleasant. Any imaginable gewgaw is in sale there; from fake Timex and Rolex watches to T-shirts in trendy designs. The market wakes up in the late afternoon and is open until midnight. In front of the alleys is the Skytrain's Sala Daeng station, which connects the area with downtown Bangkok.

4. Street Markets

Where is the Real Asia? Street markets are an integral part of the Asian experience and Bangkok offers its share of these, which are scattered around the city. However, the most concentrated experience is in Chinatown and Little India, two large market areas located next to each other.

Yaowarat Road was built between 1892 and 1900 by King Rama V. Stretching from Ong Ang canal to Wat Traimit Witthayaram it provided Bangkok with additional 1532m of streets. Few imagined what this short stretch would become: Bangkok’s Chinatown.

Across Khlong Ong Ang canal – Chinatown western end - is Phahurat or the Indian Market, also known as Little India; it surrounds Phahurat Road in the Phra Nakhon (Holy City) District. The area was founded by the Vietnamese immigrants who arrived during the reign of King Taksin.

In 1898, a fire destroyed the area. Following it, Phahurat Road was created (honoring a dead daughter of the then king ruling) and Indian immigrants populated the area. Hindu Indians concentrate around Soi 12 (Soi are the small streets spanning off a Thai central avenue), but Sikhs, Muslims and Tamils can be also spotted. Beyond the fabulous smells of Indian spices and dishes, the area is renowned for its tailors, who can prepare suits quickly, inexpensively and of decent quality.

Traveling between the Attractions

A big metropolis, Bangkok offers plenty of transport methods. The day tours described in this journal were designed for walkers; yet public transport can help secondary destinations near each one

I described the main transport methods in Bangkok in a journal named Roaming Bangkok. The Skytrain, the metro, the different types of buses, and even the new international airport of Bangkok are described there.

Boats - along the Chao Phraya River or the canals – are an important part of the travel experience in this Venice of the East. Khlong ("Canal") Saen Saeb is almost out of sight, hidden below the street level. The canal connects Khlong Mahanak near the Mahakan Fortress and the Golden Mount to Prachin Buri and Chachoengsao where the canal ends at the Bang Pa Kong River; eighteen kilometers of it are used for an express boat service providing public transport.

And now? Bangkok in a week!

Hundreds of royal and religious sites occupy vast parts of Bangkok; exploring all of them is almost impossible in a short visit. Yet, many of the main ones are along Thanon (meaning "street" and "avenue") Ratchadamnoen, which is the heart and soul of the city. The street name means "Royal Passage," hinting that the avenue links between the Grand and Dusit palaces.

Ratchadamnoen is the centre of government administration in Bangkok. Despite the Western style of parts of it, it is intrinsically Thai. Few Westerners would recognize it as a single conceptual unit since it is divided into three parts, namely Ratchadamnoen Nok (outer), Ratchadamnoen Klang (middle), and Ratchadamnoen Nai (inner). Ratchadamnoen Nai starts from the Grand Palace and lies along Sanam Luang. Ratchadamnoen Klang connects Sanam Luang with the Golden Mount and Ratchadamnoen Nok connects the Golden Mount with the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall and the Dusit area.

The Ratchadamnoen Nok part was constructed first, from August 1899 onwards. In 1901, King Rama V proclaimed the construction of Ratchadamnoen Klang Avenue and Ratchadamnoen Nai Avenue; the three segments were named "Thanon Ratchadamnoen."

This street is perfect for a day walk along some of the main royal and religious sites in town. The best would be to begin at the Grand Palace and to advance northwards, so that the day ends up in a lighter tone at the Dusit Zoo.

A point to keep in mind while seeing the street is that Ratchadamnoen is a symbol of the transition from the old Siamese absolute monarchy area of the Royal Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha to the new Thai area of the Dusit Palace of the modern constitutional monarchy. The symbol has also architectural representation; the Grand Palace is traditional Thai in style, while the parts near the Dusit Palace were built in European style.

Ratchadamnoen Nai: the Grand Palace

Few places manage to transfer its visitors to another, magical world as the Ratanakosin Grand Palace does. While approaching it spires and stupas densely rising above the wall surrounding the complex in an impossible kaleidoscope of colors and shapes act as an irresistible magnet for visitors. A view from another world, where spirits are believed to live within talismans, statues and little, colored houses.

The Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha were built after King Rama I ascended the throne as the founder of the Chakri Dynasty on 6 April 1782. Spending a couple of hours at the place before continuing the tour makes sense.

Leaving the Grand Palace turn right on Thanon Na Phra Lan; at the kitty corner from the palace is Wat Lak Muang - the city pillar. Thai cities always include a pillar which is considered to host the city’s guardian spirit or deity.

Beyond the palace southern wall is Wat Pho, the biggest and oldest temple in Bangkok. Also known as Wat Phra Chetuphon or Temple of the Reclining Buddha, this is Bangkok’s oldest and biggest temple; built in 1688 (before the city’s foundation!) it has ninety-five pagodas and 394 Buddha images, an amount unmatched by any other temple in town.

Beginning at the Grand Palace’s northern end, Ratchadamnoen Nai runs along a big open area known as Sanam Luang. To say that Sanam Luang is unprepossessing would be the understatement of the new millennium. Few would realize that the almost empty park is one of the most important sites in Royal Bangkok.

The original name of the site was Thung Phra Mane, meaning Royal Cremation Ground; it has been used as such since the reign of King Rama I. In 1855, King Rama IV changed the name to Thong Sanam Luang, which is shortened to Sanam Luang.

Sanam Luang is a peaceful place. Young couples and families tour it at all hours, some of them flying kites, other feeding doves. The large open space offers splendid views of the Grand Palace; attractive statues and monuments surround it.

Ratchadamnoen Klang: the Central Part

In 1935, the People's Party government began to rebuild this part of the avenue. The mahogany trees planted in the reign of King Rama V were taken out, the road was widened and many commercial buildings were built. The Democracy Monument – one of the main landmarks in modern Bangkok – was built then. Its measures are related to June, 24, 1932, the day Thai democracy was born.

The monument is roughly halfway between Sanam Luang and the Golden Mount, symbolizing that the 1932 Constitution was intended to become the center of the young Thai democracy. At the center of the traffic circle is a carved representation of the Constitution, atop two golden offering bowls placed above a round turret.

Most buildings along this section were designed in the plain contemporary European style of that period, rejecting the idea of status and decorations; they proclaimed a big change from the absolute monarchy era.

Restoring the Lost Energy

The Queen's Gallery Café is unavoidable; it occupies a premium corner in front of the Mahakan Fort and near the Golden Mount, Wat Ratchanatdaram (the Black Metal Temple), the Democracy Monument and is on the way from the Grand Palace to the Throne Hall. An excellent coffee at a classy spot.

Near the junction where Ratchadamnoen Nok and in the vicinity of the stadium are humble stalls offering Isaan food from northeastern Thailand. Som tam (papaya salad), laap (spicy salad of mint leaves, meat and chilies) and kai yang (grilled chicken) are all recommended.

Ratchadamnoen Nok: Reaching the Throne Hall

On this part of the avenue are important symbols of Royal Bangkok. At its beginning and within Wat Saket is the Golden Mount (Phu Khao Thong), an artificial hill with a temple built around and atop it. The hill is a slanted ramp which reaches a strikingly beautiful chedi at its summit, where Buddha relics are kept.

Across the street is the Black Metal Temple. The temple is famous for its Metal Castle (Loha Prasat) west of the complex main temple. The five levels castle is square and has thirty-seven spires; the central one reaches thirty–seven meters above the street level. The upper three levels host the beautiful and elaborated cast iron spires which give the temple its common name, unusual shape and black color.

Back to the Ratchadamnoen Avenue, along the way northwards are colorful arches which symbolize the status of the "royal emperor" of the Buddhist teachings. Four royal attractions are in this area: the Royal Plaza, the Ananta Samakorn Throne Hall, the Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall and the Vimanmek Mansion.

Except for a statue of King Rama V riding a horse at its center and trees on its perimeter, the huge Royal Plaza is empty, offering a grand background to the Ananta Samakorn Throne Hall.

The Ananta Samakorn Throne Hall, was built in 1912 in a classical European style, it features a dome unusually seen in Asia and Cherubim adorn its gates. It is hard to find any Thai touches in the whole structure. After the 1932 coup which ended the absolute monarchy, it housed the Thai parliament for a while.

The palace can be visited after buying tickets at an office placed behind it (so that the view of the palace from the plaza would not be obstructed). Beyond its splendor, and the glimpse it offers at the Thai fascination with European architecture during the early 20th Century, the structure is of little interest.

Behind the former, is the single story Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall, which is an awesome example of Thai architecture, featuring carved floral motifs on panels adorning the gables and eaves.

West of the former and across a canal, is the Vimanmek Mansion, also known as the golden teak palace of King Rama V. This palace is known as the world's largest teakwood building, the most traditional house building material in Thailand. Nowadays the teak logging is forbidden and this type of structures is becoming rare.

A Lighter End

Located next to the Old Parliament and Throne Hall, the Khao Din - Dusit Zoo enjoys a central location in Bangkok; a visit to what is considered among the best zoos in Asia is the perfect end for a busy day in Royal and Religious Bangkok.

Speaking of a walk in nature in one of the world’s biggest metropolises sounds strange. However, below the Skytrain and above the metro, Bangkok offers a surprising variety of green spots.

The best before this tour, is having an invigorating coffee at Thanon Silom. The avenue can be reached with the Skytrain Sala Daeng Station or the metro.

Near the station is a branch of Delifrance. They serve an excellent coffee, but there is a more important aspect to such a visit. They are one of the few shops in Bangkok specializing in bread and offer awesome sandwiches on a wide variety of fresh breads. After living for a while in a rice-oriented culture, such a place grows to be of importance and successfully provides the illusion of returning home, at least for a short hour.

Lumphini

Afterward, head northwards until the street ends at the corner of Suan Lumphini, the biggest park in metropolitan Bangkok. Lumphini is the local spelling of Lumbini, Buddha’s birthplace in Nepal.

King Rama VI - King Mankhutklao - created the park in the 1920s; his statue is on the southwestern entrance to the park. Back then, the park was on the city outskirts, while now it is at its very center, connecting the main commercial and shopping quarters.

The lush and green garden hosts two lakes and two ponds; while walking among them, pleasant surprises await the visitor. The Thai Lanna Pavilion is better than any similar structure in Chiang Mai, the capital of the old Lanna Kingdom, which was one of the predecessors to the modern Thai Kingdom. Almost on the opposite side of the park are a Chinese Pavilion and a beautiful Chinese Clock Tower, which honor another important segment of the Thai society. Near the park is the Lumphini Boxing Stadium, the main Muay Thai (Thai kickboxing) arena in town.

The Bird Watching Course allows enjoying the over thirty species of birds that inhabit the park. Pedalboats and rowboats are available for rental; thirty minutes cost thirty baht (roughly one dollar). The Smiling Sun Ground is an area designed for the disabled, with no stairs, a special playground, parking lots and other special facilities.

Dharma in the Park is the name of a Buddhist sermon given on the last Sunday of every month between 7 AM and 9 AM. Music in the Park is the name given to various Thai and Western musical performances in the Palm Garden between February and April, on Sundays between 4:30 PM and 8 PM.

Central World Plaza

After enjoying the park, walk northwards along Thanon Ratchadamri along the Royal Bangkok Sports Club until the intersection with Thanon Ploen Chit. The junction is cannot be missed since it features the eastern meeting point between the two Skytrain lines.

In front of the Central World shopping mall is a plaza running all along it. It is difficult to define it as a park or a garden, since it is completely covered up and does not feature even one spot of green; yet, two temples occupy one of its corners. One of them features a large pond of water, adding a touch of nature to one of the most developed areas in the city. The rest of the plaza hosts changing displays.

The Ganesh and Trimurati Shrines are located in the northern corner of the plaza. The one, solid and low, is the Ganesh Shrine; it is dedicated to the Hindu Elephant God, which is considered here as a benefactor. An elephant was featured in the old Siamese flag and up to date elephants enjoy a special place in the Thai culture. In the shrine, a huge Ganesh sits below a dome and is surrounded by many small elephant statues put there by worshippers. Flower garlands, bananas and fresh stalks of sugarcane are given to it as offerings.

Near it is the larger, whiter and taller Trimurati Shrine, amidst a shallow, black pool. Its calm waters add a bit of serenity to this hectic part of Bangkok. The shrine consists of three pillars representing the Hindu gods Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The offerings here include red flowers, candles and incense. The fact that most of the worshipers are Theravada Buddhists is another peculiarity of the Thai society.

Benchasiri

After that return to Ploen Chit and take the Skytrain to Phrom Pong Station. Even from the side facing Sukhumvit Road, Benchasiri Park looks attractive on the verge of irresistible. When approaching it, a sudden void, the open space between the high buildings, provides an exciting prelude. Following the void in the altitudes is the appearance of greenery. Once inside the landscape changes, as if by work of hidden stage workers, and a green screen falls upon the city; the visitor is immersed in a different world of blue waters and greenery.

The construction of the Benchasiri Park was decided in 1989, the construction began in 1990 and it was inaugurated on 12 August 1992 as a tribute to H.M. the Queen on her 5th Cycle Birthday.

Despite its relatively small size, the park packs in many attractions, while keeping a serene and peaceful ambience. A big pond at its center and the tree’s shade create an attractive contrast with the surrounding skyscrapers.

An impressive three meters tall, golden sculpture of H.M. the Queen in a standing posture in what looks like a commemoration coin welcomes the visitors to the park. Near it are two Thai styled pavilions exhibiting H.M. the Queen's activities.

Separating the sculpture from the street is the musical fountain. The fountain is part of the sculpture called "Hansa" (ecstasy) by Mesium Yipinsoy. Shows in which the water dances at the rhythm of the music are held three times daily, between 6 and 7 AM, 12 to 1 PM and 6 to 8 PM. Beyond the fountain musical show, special performances can be enjoyed in the weekend’s evenings. They include Thai and Western groups.

The park was designed as Bangkok’s Park of Sculptures, and includes eighteen pieces by well known artists. Those include "Cheevit lae Sattha" (Life and Faith), "Roi Sattha" (A Trace of Faith), "Kird" (Birth), "Wan Dek" (Children Day), "Rammana" (a one-ended drum with a short cylinder), "Dek" (Child), "Toeb To" (Growth), "Ngok Ngarm" (flourish), "Puen Pipop lae Jakkawan" (Earth and the Universe), "Wua" (Cow), "Sanyalak Haeng Seriphab" (Freedom), "Sanyalak Haeng Cheevit" (Life), "Manus" (Human), and "Leela Haeng Samphantaphab" (Relative Movement). This adds an interesting cultural level which is almost inexistent in other local parks.

Despite most of the park being greenery (70%) or water (20%), some space was kept for sports; paved areas for the following games exist: Taek Raw, Volleyball, Basketball, Roller-Skating and also a Health Plaza with various fitness stations. A children playground and a swimming pool complete the list of sport facilities.

In addition to a recreational place, the park is a venue for Buddhist activities. Every second Sunday of each month between 6:30 AM and 8:30 AM a Buddhist sermon – called "Dharma in the Park" – can be listened to in Thai.

OK, I did that and it is still before sunset

Some of the best parks in Bangkok are located in other areas. One which is worth of a special visit – though it can be combined with a visit to the Grand Palace, is the Santi Chai Prakan Park and Phra Sumen Fort, see the relevant entry for details how to reach it. This is one of the most distinctively Thai sights in Bangkok. Seldom do such couples – park and fort - exist within a city and it is even rarer when they are easily accessible. Parts of the old city wall, a Thai Pavilion and an attractive bridge over the Chao Phraya River complete the scene.

The original Silk Road was roughly 8000km long and thus unsuitable for a morning walk. Modern Bangkok offers its own version, no less silky, and shorter for certain.

Shopping for jeans in a Western styled shopping mall in Bangkok under the vigilant and colorful eyes of a spirits’ house, where offerings of Coca Cola – intercalated with Pepsi so that also the corporations would not be offended – are proudly displayed, transforms a banal shopping event into a cultural experience. Afterwards, leaving the air conditioned mall and facing a classical Thai dance, while people make offerings to an elephant statue and carry around burning incense sticks makes the shopping experience less decadent.

Seeing every shopping mall in Bangkok would take months; choosing the perfect item could take years. Luckily the main shopping area is a long strip beginning at Rama I Avenue, continuing along Ploen Chit and spilling into Sukhumvit. Unluckily, the last is considered to be the longest avenue in the world, thus advancing from west – Rama I – to east – Sukhumvit – is the best tactic for a day in Bangkok’s shopping malls.

Hence, the National Stadium Station of the Skytrain is the starting point of this day. Siam Station is across the junction and is connected to the National Stadium through an elevated bridge. This is important because it is the meeting point for both Skytrain lines, being accessible from many areas in the city.

Rama I

The quick transition from Siam Square – a central commercial quarter – to the quiet alley ending at a narrow, romantic canal contributes to the magic of seeing a wooden hut emerging from a lush tropical garden with lotus ponds at walking distance from the BTS Skytrain and ultramodern Bangkok. Jim Thompson's House is a wonderful traditional teakwood house, with an unusual story and a shop of high quality Thai silk.

Nicknamed MBK, Mahboonkrong is considered among knowing Thais as the best shopping malls for cellular phones. However, much more hides within this giant. MBK is on the southeastern corner of the Siam Square Junction; its location provides a spectacular visibility to the structure, which is an easily recognizable landmark.

On the junction’s kitty corner are the Siam Discovery and the Siam Center; both malls are connected by an elevated bridge that provides access also to the Skytrain and to MBK. A covered, air-conditioned pedestrian bridge over Phaya Thai Road connects MBK with Bonanza Mall, a popular mall in Siam Square which specializes in inexpensive apparel.

Moving eastwards, just after Siam Square is the sparklingly new Siam Paragon, the most up-market shopping center in town, and maybe in South East Asia, with 250 stores and endless luxury items. Its food plaza includes everything from Portuguese spicy chicken to Mongolian barbeque.

Ploen Chit

After the Ratchadamri junction, Rama I changes its name to Ploen Chit. At the junction is the CentralWorld, which has recently emerged from a massive renewal; the old and dark structure was replaced by huge amounts of glass and is now a river of light. The biggest shopping mall in Thailand includes six shopping zones, a hotel tower and two popular department stores (Zen and Isetan). All the main brands are represented here and it would take more than a day just to explore its 500 world class stores and countless restaurants.

A block northwards, on Petchaburi, is the Fashion Mall and the Pratunam clothes market across the street; before buying clothes anywhere else it is worth visiting them, no other place in Bangkok compares to them in variety and prices. Along Petchaburi Road, is Panthip Plaza, the biggest computer's shopping centre in Thailand.

Back to Ploen Chit, and still on the Ratchadamri junction, is the crowded and plain looking Sogo Department Store; just next to the Erawan Shrine and connected to Sogo with an elevated bridge is the Amarin Plaza. Amarin is the perfect place to search for traditional Thai products, many shops sell silk and silk-clothes are placed here. To increase the feeling of having entered a Thai space, the restaurants on their upper floors are mainly local and there is even a traditional stall place serving traditional Thai filtered coffee. In front of Amarin is Gaysorn a relatively small shopping mall packed with stylish, exclusive shops.

A few blocks east along Ploen Chit is the Central Chidlom Department Store, which includes the best Thai-food plaza in Bangkok at its basement. A good book store occupies the top floor together with a mini-branch of Starbucks, the perfect combination for a tired traveler. Another Starbucks faces the street by the entrance and is pleasantly styled as a street facing bar.

Sukhumvit

Sukhumvit flows eastwards from the Ploen Chit Intersection and had recently regained importance after it became the main access road to the new Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Moreover, it is a popular residence area for expatriates from all over the world.

However, the main reason for its fame - its length - can be a drawback while visiting it. It is impossible to explore the road in one day, especially since it doesn't have a clear center, but a myriad of tiny areas catering for different publics. Each one of the expatriated communities seems to own an alley and a cluster of restaurants on it. Furthermore, there are zones for shopping, night clubs, bus terminals, night markets and coffee stalls. Regardless the number of alleys explored, there are always new ones eastwards, running apparently all the way south to Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Sukhumvit is easily accessible on the Skytrain's Sukhumvit line that runs from Mo Chit, through Siam Square up to On Nut on Soi 81 of Sukhumvit Road. The metro Sukhumvit station interchanges with the Skytrain at Asok.

Sukhumvit's reputation had been somewhat damaged due to Soi Nana (Soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (Soi 21), where many nightclubs competing with those at the Patpong's alleys as the worse spots in Bangkok had found a home.

Most of Sukhumvit's sidewalks are a huge market; anything from fake Rolex through every imaginable gewgaw to original Timex watches and can be found here. Traditional Thai stalls - which became somewhat scarce in other areas of the city - operate here at all hours and offer happy breaks during a busy day of shopping. Supermarkets are scant in Bangkok, but Sukhumvit hosts two good branches of Foodland on Soi 5 & 16. The one on Soi 5 features Took Lae Dee, a well known restaurant styled up as a bar and serving Thai and basic Western dishes.

Modern shopping malls are scarcer here than in Ploen Chit Road, but are still present here. The Robinson's Department Store has a branch at Soi 19. The Emporium Shopping Center at Soi 24 is the main competitor to the luxurious Siam Paragon and Gaysorn Plaza on the nearby Ploen Chit Road; it has an attractive food court and several restaurants on the 5th floor and is somewhat cheaper than the former two. Thong Lo - or Soi 55 - features some of the best fashionable shops, clubs and restaurants in town; this is one of the few musts in Sukhumvit.

Oriental Shangri-La

If having time left, it is worth taking the Skytrain to Silom.
At its western end, Silom Road reaches the Chao Praya River. Just south of there is the Shangri-La Hotel, and north of the junction is the Oriental Hotel, two of the best hotels in Bangkok; see my Extreme Hotels in Bangkok journal for details. Both offer interesting shopping opportunities.

Spicy chili fumes mix up with the sweet aroma of Thai coffee to announce the arrival to a street market. Where is the Real Asia? Street markets are an integral part of the Asian experience and Bangkok offers its share of these, which are scattered around the city. Three of the best options can be combined in a single day of visits to Street Markets.

Yaowarat Road

Bordering the Chao Praya River and reaching the Hualampong Railway Station, Bangkok's Chinatown is easily accessible and provides entertainment for a few hours. The Hualampong Metro Station reaches the northeastern corner of the Samphanthawong District - the formal name of the area.

"Yaowarat" means in Thai "Young King." While naming it, King Rama V referred to the fact he ascended to the throne at the age of fifteen. The street was built between 1892 and 1900 and runs from Ong Ang Canal to Wat Traimit Witthayaram. It provided Bangkok with additional 1532m of streets. Few imagined what this short stretch would become: Bangkok's Chinatown.

The historic migration of Thais into modern Thailand, was caused by the settlement of Han-Chinese in Yunnan, the Thai original territory. Chinese continued migrating south along the years and nowadays are a large minority in Thailand, some statistics show numbers well above 10% of the total population.

The area around Yaowarat became known as Chinatown, since it became the first - and largest for a long time - residential area of Thai-Chinese. Chinatown Bangkok is different from similar areas elsewhere since Yaowarat Road is a wide avenue, creating thus a comfortable and uncluttered area for shopping. Alleys do exist; within them the archetypal image of a Chinatown can still be met.

Moreover, successful commerce transformed Yaowarat into the first high raising neighborhood in Bangkok, featuring buildings of seven and nine stories, both lucky numbers in the Chinese tradition. Many of them survived and their shops at the street level are still active.

At first glance, it is difficult to difference this area from other neighborhoods in the city, however, the Chinese letters announcing gold shops, gewgaws, hole-in-the-wall shops, rice dishes, noodles soup, dim sum, bird's nest soup, and Chinese traditional medicine and food ingredients tell the secret even to the most distracted traveler.

The best place to begin an exploration of Chinatown is from the Hualampong Station. Crossing the bridge at its west leads to Wat Trimit, a temple were a three meters height Buddha made of 18 karats gold and weighing five and half tones can be appreciated. As a protection from the Burmese invader, the statue was covered with plaster; its golden interior was discovered only in 1954. Sitting in the Mara position, it is typical of the Sukhothai Kingdom and thus it is dated to be around 800 years old. It is open daily between 8 AM and 5 PM.

Half a long block southwest from the temple is the impressive Chinese Gate, announcing the entrance to the Yaowarat Road and to Chinatown heart; it is placed on the Odeon Circle. Note that the gate does not look into Yaowarat Road, the last is on the gate's side. If entering the Chinatown through the gate, some of the most attractive alleys are reached, but then missing the area north of Yaowarat is easy. The best tactic would be advancing along Yaowarat while performing short incursions into the alleys on its both sides.

After entering Yaowarat Road, the Thien Fah Foundation is the first Chinese temples to appear at the left side of the road. It was established by Chinese communities speaking five different dialects in order to provide medical care to the deprived, using modern and traditional Chinese medicine. A Kuan Yim shrine can be appreciated in its interior, the statue was brought from China in 1958. Written also Guan Yin, this is the Buddhists' Compassion Bodhisattva, depicted usually as a woman. The Ah Nia Geng Shrine shares a similar nature and is located roughly midway along the street. Near it is the Guan Yu Shrine, and the Leng Buai Ia Temple, which is the oldest shrine in the area.

Deeper into Yaowarat, the area becomes exclusively commercial with shops specializing in gold, housewares, restaurants, fresh food and food ingredients and hotels. Chinatown is a destination favored by travelers and displays an amazing amount of hotels; the most distinctive one is the China Town Hotel, mainly due to the two dragons atop it.

A Tops Supermarket hiding among a plethora of gold and red signs adds a modern touch to the area; nearby is a fish market that in concept dates back to immemorial times. Shark fins soup, birds nest soup and seafood are the best culinary attractions of the area.

The neighborhood features even one of the oldest Catholic churches in the city. The Holy Rosary Church - Wat Mae Phra Luk Prakham or Wat Kalawar - is near the Chao Phraya River at the very southern tip of the neighborhood. It was built in 1787, just after Bangkok's foundation, though the actual building dates back to 1890. Its history is fascinating; the Portuguese founded the Calvary Church in the Kingdom of Ayutthaya, and almost succeeded in evangelizing Thailand. Later, the church moved here together with the kingdom's capital. The Portuguese "Calvario" became along the time distorted into "Kalawar." Near it is the River City; an arts and antiques shopping centre which is not directly related to Chinatown. Another interesting church in the area is the Maitrichit Chinese Baptist Church, featuring an impressive black tower.

Hindu Market

Across Khlong Ong Ang canal – Chinatown western end - is Phahurat or the Indian Market, also known as Little India; it surrounds Phahurat Road in the Phra Nakhon (Holy City) District. The area was founded by the Vietnamese immigrants who arrived during the reign of King Taksin.

Sadly, in 1898, a fire destroyed the area. Following it, Phahurat Road was created (honoring a dead daughter of the then king ruling) and Indian immigrants populated the area. Hindu Indians concentrate around Soi 12 (Soi are the small streets spanning off a Thai central avenue), but Sikhs, Muslims and Tamils can be also spotted. Beyond the fabulous smells of Indian spices and dishes, the area is renowned for its tailors, who can prepare suits quickly, inexpensively and of decent quality.

Silom

If finishing the visit to Chinatown and Little India early, then Silom should be the next destination. The Skytrain’s Sala Daeng station and the Lumphini Park metro station connect Silom to the rest of Bangkok. The street offers – among other attractions, Hindu and Muslim markets and temples.

Sri Mariamman, on Silom corner Pan, is an amazing Hindu temple built in the nineteenth century by Tamil immigrants. It is strikingly similar to a temple with the same name in Singapore’s Indian Quarter. The temple is extraordinarily colorful and ornate, with literally thousands of Hindu gods occupying every free spot on the structure, including sitting on a pyramid-like structure by its entrance, where they like sitting watching lesser humans staring at them from below. Unluckily it is forbidden to take pictures within its walls. The temple was built in honor of Jao Mae Maha Umathewi, also known as Uma Devi and Mariammam, the Goddess of Death; but there are also Buddha images within it.

Across the street, on Soi Pradit (also called Soi 20) is the Mirasuddeen Mosque, a relatively small, boxy temple built up in the nineties. The insignificant structure would not be in the list of Bangkok’s attractions if it wasn’t due to its exquisite neighbors. Next to the mosque is an extraordinary street market serving Muslim food, with anything from meaty kebab to vegetarian falafel.

Closer to Lumphini, Patpong has more to offer than the dubious establishments that gave them their fame; they host one of the most extravagant night markets in Bangkok. The market is clearly aimed for tourists, but is worth a visit during the late afternoon or the early evening hours, before the place gets unpleasant. Any imaginable gewgaw is in sale there; from fake Timex and Rolex watches to T-shirts in trendy designs. The market wakes up in the late afternoon and is open until midnight

On the corner of Silom with Soi 18, there is a night market which is less popular than its flashy neighbor at Patpong. Nonetheless, this one is more Thai in nature and thus more attractive for a late dinner of traditional Thai dishes.