Why Huay?

Huay Xai, the capital of the Bokeo province, is a special spot in Laos because it is closer to Thailand’s Chiang Khong than to any other Laotian town. If ignoring the slight difference between the Lao and Thai languages, it is difficult to tell in which country the town is because of its distinctive Thai appearance. Maybe that’s due to the difficulty of reaching other Lao cities from here.

One main street trapped between the Mekong River and low hills is where most of the commercial and touristic activity takes place. Some residential areas climb the hills.

Is this "Huay Xai" or "Houei Sai?"

Laos complicated past shows up in the different Romanization systems in use for Lao names. Having been a French colony, many transliterated words follow French phonetics; however the recent opening of the country to Western tourists is creating a new trend to use English phonetics. Both systems coexist and neither of them has a coherent and comprehensive solution for the transliteration of the complex Lao sounds. Tourists’ attractions named in the past follow a French transliteration, while new or restored attractions follow an English spelling.

That means that Huay Xai can be spelled out as Houayxay, Houei Sai and everything in between these options. Sometimes the word "ban" (meaning "village" and "house" in Laotian and Thai) is added before the name. That’s quite redundant because the meaning of "huay" is also closely related to the word "village."

On Rubies and Emeralds

"Bokeo" – the province’s name - means "Gems Mines," indicating the area’s main industry. Travelers are strongly recommended to avoid any contact with gems’ dealers here, a few years ago several foreigners ended up in a Laotian jail following a misunderstanding.

Bangkok is the recommended shopping stop for Laotian and Cambodian colored gems.

Views

The best view in town is from a temple on a low hill behind the town. The teakwood Shan-styled Wat Chom Khao Manilat allows sights of the town, the river and the town of Chiang Kong across the river, in Thailand. Visiting the temple is possible, though it is not a special one.

Other temples include Wat Keo Phonsavan Thanarom and Wat Khon Keo; again, neither one is extraordinary. The town houses are low and their lines are traditional Thai ones. Many of them are built of teakwood, a rapidly disappearing luxury.

Being on the eastern side of the Mekong River means the best views along the riverside are during the sunset; they are best enjoyed from a riverside restaurant. The boats moored along it and the colorful sunsets are the most attractive sights in this peaceful riverside resort. From time to time, fast boats of smugglers can be seen competing against the ones belonging to the police.

An interesting spot is Fort Carnot, which was built to house the French Foreign Legion. Now it is partially ruined and despite being possible to climb the hill reaching it, visiting its interior is not possible.

The main market is south of downtown and highly recommended; the most authentic Lao food in town is served there.

OK, a nice sunset, so what?

Huay Xai is important because it is a main cross point between Laos and Thailand and the northernmost between the countries. Laos is a bit uncomfortable for traveling around, thus instead of making a round trip, it is best to enter at one end and leave it from the other. Traveling in Thailand is much easier and the recommended way of making a round trip in the area.

Moreover, despite having few attractions, Huay Xai is a travel hub, connecting the Laos-China border with Northern Thailand and Luang Prabang.

Accommodations

In its qualities and style, Huay Xai reminds of provincial Thai towns. There are no luxury hotels in town, but the existent ones offer reliable basic accommodations with hot water and air-conditioners.

I found Friendship Guesthouse, near the promenade, a pleasant place. The helpful owner studied to be a goldsmith in Vientiane but preferred tourism and built the guesthouse from 1999 to 2001. Nearby were several similar establishments.

Rooms were available as double or single and all had private bath with hot water. From the roof were good views of the river. Rooms cost between 4 and 7 American dollars depending on their size and facilities. Booking a room in the backside is recommended to avoid the street’s noise.

A secondary – and less expensive - guesthouse area is outside town near the slow boat pier; it’s a ten minutes walk to there from downtown.

Food

Being next to the river and in front of Thailand, Huay Xai offers mainly fish and Thai cuisine. Lao and Chinese dishes complement it, though the coffee served here is not the excellent Laotian one served in the central and southern parts of the country.

The guesthouses featuring attached restaurants serve mainly hybrid international dishes. Lao Barbecue is available on street stalls next to the pier and in the night market.

Activities

Exploring the Bokeo Province is a complicated affair: it is in a mountainous and forested area with practically no paved roads (Highway 3 is in the process of being paved).

Travel agencies in town offer guided tours to nearby hill tribes villages; very similar to those offered in Chiang Rai, Thailand. There, it is possible to witness traditional villages and industries like bamboo paper, rice noodles and lao-lao, a liquor made of rice. These tours are not recommended during the rainy season.

The Gibbon Experience – on the main street – offers trips into the Bokeo Nature Reserve. A truck makes the first part of the trip and the last one is done trekking on the hills. Accommodation there is provided in tree houses placed atop giant trees. The access to them is by gliding from a near hill.

Money Issues

Huay Xai is more expensive than most Lao towns but cheaper than main towns in Thailand. That’s true with the exception of internet services which are more expensive than in Thailand and rather slow. If not in a hurry and crossing into Thailand, then it is better to wait.

Most shops in town accept Thai baht and American dollars. However, only paying in Laotian kips assures getting relatively fair prices because getting change while paying for inexpensive items with baht or dollars gets complicated and usually leads to overpricing.

Next to the immigration office and the pier to Thailand is a bank exchanging money – Thai and American - and US$ Travelers Checks. There is one ATM nearby.

Transport

The town is connected to Thailand only through ferries; a bridge is planned.

Route 3 connects Huay Xai with Luang Nam Tha and the Chinese border; the trip is not recommended during the rainy season, unless until the road is completely paved. Otherwise there are no routes that can be recommended for safe ground travel from Huay Xai. Buses from Luang Nam Tha (leaving from there at 9:30 AM) arrive to Huay Xai in the early afternoon, though in the rainy season the trip can long a couple of days.

The bus terminal is very basic and typical of Laos, just an open air structure with a few benches. It is located about two kilometers east of downtown. Since the way to there is downwards, it is recommended to walk it. The views of the Mekong River along the way are worth the delay.

Frequent boats cross the river during the day to the Thai town of Chiang Khong, from where direct buses reach Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai. Other boats reach Pakbeng and Luang Prabang to the south and half-way to Muang Sing and Luang Nam Tha to the northeast. These are reviewed in other entries of this journal.

The local airport offers three times a week flights to Vientiane and one flight on Saturdays to Luang Prabang.

Within downtown the best is walking around, though tuk-tuks offer accessible transport to everywhere.

Carrying a heavy backpack and getting wet by the muddy waters of the Mekong River while crossing the national boundaries between Chiang Khong in Thailand to Huay Xai in Laos is easy to forget that this place has an exciting and complex history. The change of money, languages and even alphabets after crossing the river hide the fact that until the 19th century these both cultures where almost inseparable. Even now, a large part of Thailand – known as Isaan – speaks a Thai dialect which is identical to the Lao language.

Along history, several Thai kingdoms existed in the area (I have reviewed Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Thonbuti) and exerted power over vassal principalities in what now is northern Thailand (like Nan and Chiang Rai) and modern Laos. The two people originate from the Xishuangbanna area of Yunnan, and share cultural links with the Dai people still living there and the Shan in Myanmar.

The separation into two countries occurred only in 1893, when colonial France annexed Laos to Indochina. Huay Xai is very close to one of the main conflict areas between Thailand and Laos, which lead even to a very recent – but mostly unknown – short war between the countries.

Cochinchina

France is the key for understanding these events. The relations between France and Siam date back to around 1550, when the Jesuits arrived for the first time, though the first significant event was in 1662 when Pope Alexander VII defined Siam as a vicariate apostolic, and the Missions Etrangères de Paris created a mission in Ayutthaya.

Subsequently trade began between the countries. A Siamese ambassador arrived at Paris in 1684, after an early attempt to establish an embassy failed. Complex events followed, including several attacks on each other and a period in which Siam isolated itself. The direct events leading to the creation of Laos date back to the 19th century.

A treaty was signed in 1856 to facilitate trade, guarantee religious freedom, and allow the access of French warships to Bangkok Index. At the same time, French presence in Vietnam was increased, until in 1867 Cochinchina (nowadays southern Vietnam) was created and followed by a new treaty between Siam and France.

Indochina

In 1885, France obtained control of northern Vietnam following its victory over China in the Sino-French war. A federation of Tonkin (North Vietnam), Annam (Central Vietnam), Cochinchina (South Vietnam), and Cambodia was formed in 1887 and named French Indochina.

In 1888, the French captured from Siam what now is the northeast of Laos, namely Phongsaly and parts of the Luang Prabang provinces. By 1890 the French decided to annex Siam, with Laos targeted as the first stage.

In 1893 the French used border disputes to provoke a crisis. French gunboats appeared at Bangkok, and demanded the cession of territories east of the Mekong. King Chulalongkorn appealed to the British, but these offered no significant help, though they made an agreement with France guaranteeing the rest of Siam. In exchange, Siam gave up the Tai-speaking Shan region of north-eastern Burma (now the Shan State in Myanmar) to the British, and ceded Laos to France. Modern Huay Xai was in this batch of annexations as well as Chantaburi. The last played later a significant role in the relations between the countries.

Failing in their plan to annex Siam, the French lost interest in Laos. Officially, the Kingdom of Luang Prabang and the Principality of Champosak remained protectorates with internal autonomy, but they were controlled by around 200 French residents.

In 1898 all the Lao lands were put under the supervision of a Resident-Superior, based in Viang Chan (spelled in French "Vientiane") and answerable to the French Governor-General in Hanoi. That’s why Vientiane is nowadays the country’s capital.

Border Changes

In 1904, in order to get back Chantaburi, Siam gave Trat to French Indochina. Two other areas west of the Mekong were ceded on the same year. Champosak, in southern Laos was the first. The second was Xaignabouli, south of Huay Xai and near modern Nan; this area became a sore point between the countries.

Trat became part of Thailand again on March 1906 in exchange for several areas east of the Mekong River which are part now of modern Cambodia. Between 1906 and 1907 The French created another crisis. This time Siam conceded to France the west bank of the Mekong opposite Luang Prabang and western Cambodia. France also occupied the parts of Chantaburi.

The British interceded to prevent more French expansion against Siam, but their price, in 1909, was accepting British sovereignty over Kedah, Kelantan, Perlis and Terengganu.

French-Thai War

During World War II, Thailand reclaimed the previously lost territories, resulting in the French-Thai War between October 1940 and May 1941.

The war ended at the instigation of the Japanese, with the French agreeing to minor territorial gains for Thailand. Xaignabouli – south of Huay Xai - was then recovered under the name Lan Chang Province, but returned to the pre-war status in 1946. The central Victory Monument in Bangkok commemorates this event.

Indochina’s End

The Indochinese Federation lasted until 1954. In that year, the Geneva Conference produced an agreement giving independence to Indochina. Subsequently, the federation broke up into the modern countries.

The events of 1954 marked the beginnings of American involvement in Vietnam which led to the Vietnam War.

Kingdom and Communism

In Laos, elections were held in 1955, and a coalition government, led by Prince Souvanna Phouma, was formed in 1957. A second Geneva conference, held in 1961-62, assured the independence and neutrality of Laos, but the agreement was violated by both the US and North Vietnam and the war was resumed.

American and North Vietnamese military presence in Laos drew the country into the Second Indochina War (1954-1975). For nearly a decade, eastern Laos was subjected to the heaviest bombing in the history of warfare, because the US sought to destroy the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

Following the Paris Peace Accords and the subsequent withdrawal of US from Vietnam, a ceasefire between the Pathet Lao (Communist Laotian Party) and the government resulted in a new coalition government. Then, the Pathet Lao with the backing of North Vietnam were able to take total power and on December 2, 1975, the king was forced to abdicate and the modern Lao People's Democratic Republic was established.

Thai-Lao Border War

Following a series of shooting incidents between Thai and Laotian forces in 1984 involving rival claims to three border villages, a major dispute arose in December 1987 over territory claimed by Laos as part of the Boten district in the Xaignabouli province (south of Huay Xai), and by Thailand as part of the Chat Trakan district in the Phitsanulok province, the same territory that was conquered by Thailand in the 1940 war against the French and returned to Indochina after WWII ended.

The fighting claimed more than a thousand lives before a cease-fire was declared on February 1988 with no changes along the border.

More Than Two Decades Later

More than two decades later all this is forgotten. Even the infamous Golden Triangle is little more than a museum on the convergence point of two rivers. Lush tropical vegetation had covered whatever reminders of the past violence were left, and travelers crossing the Mekong have troubles to distinguish any real differences across national boundaries.

Peace is here.

If entering Laos from Huay Xai and wishing to explore the north, then reaching Luang Nam Tha and Muang Sing is inevitable. The overland trip to them is the most adventurous, though it is also possible to travel by boat.

Boat Option

The simplest trip is taking a boat to Xieng Kok (3 hours) and then a bus to Muang Sing (2 hours). The last is north of Luang Nam Tha, on the border with China. The cross is closed to foreigners, but the town is an attraction due to the hill tribes inhabiting it. From there are trucks to Luang Nam Tha (2 hours).

I do not recommend the boats due to their overcharging foreigners. When locals pay 125 baht (large sums are sometimes quoted in baht), foreigners pay 800 baht.

A less popular option is the special boats traveling directly from Huay Xai to Luang Nam Tha. Because they take few passengers, they charge a whooping 6000 baht for the trip.

National Route 3

Better known by the euphemism Highway 3, the 228 kilometers long route connects Huay Xai to Luang Nam Tha and Boten. The last offers a border cross open for foreigners to Mohan, in the Xishuangbanna region of Yunnan, China.

Its importance is due to its connecting northern Thailand with Yunnan; probably it would suffer of rush hours once the Huay Xai–Chiang Khong Bridge is built. Moreover it is the only way connecting Huay Xai overland with the main Laotian cities.

With no delays, the trip can be done in six to eight hours. The way up to Luang Nam Tha takes longer than in the opposite direction. Trucks leave during the morning hours, usually after the bus has enough passengers. The best is to reach the bus terminal between 8:30 and 9:30 AM.

It is important to remember that the road becomes muddy during the wet season, when trips between Huay Xai and Luang Nam Tha can take up to a couple of days. Traveling then it is not recommended, especially since there are no facilities along the road if a delay occurs.

A few years ago, a friend of mine took a truck from Huay Xai to Luang Nam Tha during the rainy season. The truck, despite being old, was solidly built in the best Soviet tradition and inspired trust. The torrential rain did not scare the driver. At the midway, they found a fallen tree blocking the road. One side of it featured a steep hill, while the other was atop a deep precipice. Down below was a truck that had been knocked down by the falling tree. Turning around was not possible.

The next day, still there no solution to the problem could be found. At noon a jeep arrived to the area. A deal was struck: my friend’s group would help to pass the jeep over the fallen tree and would get a ride to Luang Nam Tha in exchange. The others stayed there.

Luang Nam Tha

Laotian names do not have a set transliteration system into Roman letters. Luang Nam Tha can appear also as Louang Namtha and everything in the middle. I opted for Luang Nam Tha, because it best fits the meaning (literally "Town River Tha").

Another recurring name in the area is Houakhong. This was the name of a province that was split in 1976 into Bokeo, where Huay Xai is, and Luang Nam Tha.

Luang and Muang

"Luang," "Muang," and other terms often appear in Lao and Thai city names. Moreover, most of these cities are referred to in their surroundings only with this part of the name, creating thus a confusing reality for the traveler.

Being Laos a rural society, the issue can be explained easily. These words can be translated as "town" while the surrounding county bears the same name except for the "town" part.

Thus, Luang Nam Tha is the capital city of the Luang Nam Tha Province, while Muang Sing is the capital town of the Sing district within the same province.

Rationale

Luang Nam Tha has been positioned as the adventure tourism center in Laos. Beyond that, is the overland gate to Huay Xai and to Muang Sing. The town is small, but nonetheless provides a pleasant stop for a couple of days. Solidly within northern Laos animist area, there is an obvious lack of Buddhist temples in town.

Non-Lao Food

The cultural distance between this province and the rest of Laos is not limited to religious issues. The local food resembles more the "eat-anything-that-moves" approach than the traditional Lao one. I have seen rats for sale at the market.

The food sold at the market stalls resembles very much the Chinese cuisine, especially due to the massive use of soybeans and molasses. The soybeans appear even in the noodle soup, something that does not happen in southern or central Laos.

Luang Nam Tha Museum

The museum is open during the week mornings and displays a basic collection of items belonging to the area’s early cultures, the colonial era and the Communist Revolution. Bronze drums are among the most attractive items in display.

Black Tai

Black Tai villages ("ban") surround the town and can be visited by bicycle. There, the process of weaving silk can be witnessed.

Another point of interest in these villages is the cemeteries, placed within the dense forests surrounding them. The graves resemble little houses. A man’s grave is marked with one flag, while those belonging to women feature a small circle of flags.

Ban Nam Dee

This village is placed next to a small waterfall, half an hour by bicycle north of town. The Lanten people living there specialize in the production of bamboo paper.

Nam Ha Protected Area

This nature reserve is one of the biggest in Laos. It houses much of the wild life still existing in the country, including elephants and buffalos as well as many reptiles and birds. The best landmark in the reserve is the meeting of the Nam Tha and Nam Ha rivers, which can be reached by boat from the town.

That Phoum Phouk

Built in 1628 and (following the damage caused by the Vietnam War) restored in 2003, this pagoda is almost unique in the province. Oddly it is not within the town’s limits and is best approached from the nearby airport.

Accommodations

Taking the self-definition as an eco-tourism center a bit too far, all the guesthouses in town are extremely basic. Planning for a stay as short as possible makes sense under the circumstances.

Reaching China

At the northern tip of the Luang Nam Tha province is the town of Muang Sing, practically sitting on the Chinese border. Reaching the Laotian post there is possible, but taking a look at the other side is not allowed even if having a Chinese visa.

Muang Sing

This small town resembles very much Luang Nam Tha in appearance and concept; however, the population is even less Lao and many signs in it are in Chinese. The town travel agencies specialize in treks to the surrounding hill tribes’ villages. The guesthouses in town are very basic.

Walking Around the Area

The treks offered by local travel agencies in Muang Sing are classified by them as day walks and mountain hikes, ranging anything between one and three days. Thus, technically speaking, all of them are short walks and not proper treks.

The main hill tribes’ villages can be explored in a single day walk; most agencies offer a walk combining seven villages in one day. Those include Hmong, Akha, Lue, Tai and Khamu people. Sadly, these tours have been over-commercialized and resemble just visits to souvenirs markets.

Downtown Muang Sing

The Muang Sing Exhibition was the former residence of the local ruler and houses traditional crafts and tools typical of the area. It is open in the mornings and early afternoons. Muang Sing features a significant Buddhist population due to the Tai population of the area. The main wat is rather dully called Wat Luang (namely the "Town’s Temple") and is located near the Muang Sing Exhibition.

Muang Sing’s market houses people from all the surrounding villages; to some extent, visiting it compares to a concentrated tour of the villages. In front of the market is an old French military fort.

Almost six kilometers before the town’s main entrance is the That Xieng Tung stupa atop a hill. Often, these monuments are believed to contain Buddha relics; this one supposedly contains the Buddha Adam’s apple.

Leaving Luang Nam Tha

It is possible to leave Luang Nam Tha by air to Luang Prabang and Vientiane. However, after having reached such a remote spot, giving up is not an option. The best is to take a bus to Udom Xai and to continue exploring North Laos.

As mentioned, another option is crossing to China, through Boten.

If entering Laos from Huay Xai, there are two options for reaching Luang Prabang and the Central areas of Laos. The first one is travelling to Luang Nam Tha – exploring the area there – and from there advancing eastwards to Udom Xai and then heading south by road to Luang Prabang. If desiring to skip the other parts of Northern Laos, then it is possible to travel by boat to Luang Prabang. This entry explores the last option.

Pakbeng or Luang Prabang?

The boat trip can be a direct one to Luang Prabang or to reach only Pakbeng, from where Luang Prabang can then be reached by road.

Pakbeng is rather small and there is no special reason for stopping there, except for this option being cheaper than taking a direct trip to Luang Prabang, even when factoring in the ground transport. The bus trip from Pakbeng to Luang Prabang lasts 12 hours and departs from a station located a few kilometers south of town.

Boats

There are two types of boats servicing the line, fast and slow ones. The slow ones stop in Pakbeng for a night since the trip longs two days.

Boats leave every day except on Sundays and tickets can be bought for the whole trip to Luang Prabang or only until Pakbeng. The boats leave around 9 AM from a pier located slightly north of downtown Huay Xai, the trip costs around 600 baht (sometimes bargaining is possible).

Regardless the passengers number the boat is never full: passengers would be crowded up until nobody is left on the pier. Sitting on the roof during the trip is allowed.

Speed boats are small, carrying up to six people. The first half of the trip to Pakbeng costs 440 baht and longs three hours. The whole trip to Luang Prabang costs 880 baht and longs six hours. The last option is extremely demanding from the passengers since the trip is rather violent.

If coming to Huay Xai from Thailand do not buy the tickets in Chiang Khong, since these are overpriced.

Pakbeng

Pakbeng is a small village, located on the Mekong River about halfway between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang. Pakbeng is connected by a road with Udom Xai along the Nam Beng River.

The town is a major stop for the slow boats running from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai. There are several small guesthouses that usually have attached restaurants, grocery shops, a sauna, and hill tribes living close by.

A small wat is on the hills near the village; it displays a typical style of the Lanna Kingdom. Many of its temples have been destroyed.

Luang Prabang

"Oh, no! Not another one!," I thought while looking at a sign announcing Luang Prabang as yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site. After seeing several, they became a kind of warning: "This is a World Tourism Marketing Site." After all, the town of Jinghong, the 21st century slaves in Bolivia’s lowlands and Aisha Adnan Al-Bahsh wounded sister hold a no less important testimony of human culture than any one of those sites.

A true spot of interest needs no tags. Any human facing Bangkok’s Grand Palace, or watching the brave struggle of human victims against their systematic oppression, knows he’s watching something special. The official tag is a marketing sign, a price tag.

The recent appearance of "Wonders Lists" competing with UNESCO was expected and similarly oriented. Furthermore, the appearance of World Heritage Sites collectors resembles those collecting country’s visits. The number of items in those lists often replaces the experience; meeting a culture and its people takes time, their treasures can be neither counted nor tagged.

A Bit of History

Founded as Muang Sua, the town of Xieng Dong Xieng Thong became the capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom between 1353 and 1560. When this kingdom ceased to exist in 1707, the city became the capital of the Luang Prabang principality and later the capital of the Kingdom of Laos until the Communist Revolution of 1975.

Access

The small town of Luang Prabang is more than four-hundred kilometers north of Vientiane, on the Mekong riverside.

Luang Prabang can be reached by air from Phongsaly, Vientiane, Xieng Khuang (Phonsavan), Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Siem Reap, and Hanoi.

Route 13 links it with Vang Vieng and Vientiane, while Route 1 leads to Udom Xai, five hours away on bus, Luang Nam Tha is another five hours away from Udom Xai. The Mekong connects it with Huay Xai.

Downtown Attractions

Luang Prabang is small and much more compact than any other Lao town, exploring it by foot is a breeze. Most attractions are crammed nearby Xiang Thong, the town’s main road. Little is left of the royal past; yet, the mixture of architectural styles hints at its past importance and colonial period. Buddhist temples adorn the downtown area; with the exception of Haw Kham and Phu Si they are not of special interest.

On Sisavangvong Road, and parallel to the river, is a night market selling souvenirs and crafts; many Hmong people sell items related to their heritage.

Haw Kham

Haw Kham was the kingdom’s royal palace until 1975; for a while the Emerald Buddha was stored here, a replica can still be appreciated.

Phu Si

Downtown Luang Prabang was constructed around a low hill called Phou Si. Beyond a stuppa, the place offers good views of the town and the river, especially during the sunset, but only for those enduring the 328 steps leading there.

Kuang Si Falls

The waterfall is thirty kilometers south of Luang Prabang; there is little to do except for cooling down within the several pools. They can be reached by boat or truck. On the way is the Bear Rescue Center where endangered Asian Black Bears live in the company of a tiger rescued from hunters.

Pak Ou Caves

The Buddha Caves are on the Mekong riverside north of town; they are a cemetery for Buddha statues that had been retired from the temples due to their age. There, thousands of Buddha statues of every size and material peacefully deteriorate to dust. Most tours there stop at Ban Laolao – a mock name to a village where rice liquor ("laolao") is produced.

Earthly Worries

Luang Prabang is overcrowded with restaurants catering for tourists, especially on Sisavangvong Road and along the Mekong riverside. The recommended ones are those specializing on Lao and French cuisines.

There are no luxury hotels in Luang Prabang; despite the impression a few upmarket guesthouses try to create. Over time I tried several options and have found the Sysomphone Guesthouse a comfortable establishment. There are several types of rooms; checking them before checking in is recommended. Free hot water allows preparing coffee while listening to the owner stories and recommendations.

The city is roughly on the northern limit of the area where Laotian Coffee is served; if continuing northwards, that’s the last opportunity to buy some.

The northernmost border cross between Thailand and Laos open for tourists is the one connecting Chiang Khong in Thailand with Huay Xai in Laos. It is also possible to cross from Ban Sop Ruak to Don Sao – north of this crossing – but Don Sao is a dead-end location, it is not possible to advance further within Laos from this island.

Chiang Khong and Huay Xai face each other across the Mekong River. The trip between them is done with the help of boats, though a bridge is in plans.

Immigration

The Lao and Thai immigration booths are each on the respective side of the Mekong River and open daily between 8 AM and 5:30 PM.

Thai visa-on-arrival are issued free of charge for most nationalities. Laos issues here a visa-on-arrival but their immigration policies are subject to sporadic changes. It is better to get a visa beforehand in Bangkok, or be ready to pay anything between 30 to 70 American dollars for a visa-on-arrival; a passport photo is requested during the process. Moreover, Laos charges fees for the entry. Again, I found them to change often and unexpectedly; they range between ½ to 1 American dollars, and sometimes are not existent at all. Weekend fees may also apply.

Both countries apply overstay fees on a daily base (up to $10 per day), though Thailand usually allows overstaying one day.

Boats span the distance between the countries for twenty baht. Since the passengers sit low and close to the water level is better to bring some cover for the luggage. Even if the travel speed is not high, waves from police boats may attempt to wet the passengers. The last boat departs around 5 PM.

In Laos, the pier is conveniently located near the town center. In Thailand, the pier is north of the town and rather far from the bus terminal. Tuk-tuks connect both.

Once in Thailand

Chiang Khong is a small town with little of interest for the traveler. Administratively, it is an "amphoe" (district) in the northeastern part of the Chiang Rai Province. One of its "tambon" (subdistricts) is called Wiang Chiang Khong. The last is the town travelers arrive at. This type of towns is called in Thailand "thesaban tambon."

Once there, the traveler is faced with three main options:

1. Exploring the Golden Triangle
2. Reaching Chiang Rai
3. Reaching Chiang Mai

Here is a short review of these.

Golden Triangle

Few places have such a potential to stir our imagination: dense jungles, wide, low-flowing rivers, soft light through green branches opium smugglers and Burmese Pagodas. Reality is nowadays different, the jungle gave way to an opium museum and boats take you to a tourists’ market in Laos.

From Chiang Khong the best is traveling northwards to the near town of Chiang Saen. Trucks cover the 53 kilometers during the day.

Chiang Saen watches over the Mekong River and, just south of it, the Maekok River. The last arrives from Chiang Rai and meets here the Mekong.

All over the town are visible the stained red brick ruins of the Chiang Saen Kingdom. At the west entrance, when coming from Chiang Rai, there is an interesting circular gate, maybe the best of its type in Southeast Asia.

Ban Sop Ruak is 11km north of there, next to where the borders of Myanmar, Laos and Thailand meet at the junction of the Ruak River with the Mekong. This is the Thai side of the Golden Triangle.

It has a great view of the rivers’ junction, an Opium Museum, and shops selling the glory of past days. Two rows of stalls sell textiles, food and souvenirs; they are covered with plastic sheets that create a narrow and comfortable corridor for the shoppers.

Boats here offer sightseeing trips to the Paradise Resort (Myanmar) and the Don Sao Market (Laos) for 300B. The boat trip starts upriver, traveling in the Mekong stretch between Myanmar and Laos, until the Paradise Resort Casino is seen. Landing there without a special permit is not possible. Then the boats turn south and approach the Laotian Don Sao Island, three kilometers south of Ban Sop Ruak. The Laotian Immigration charges 20B for landing and the passport is not be stamped; thus, it is not possible to renew the Thai visa here.

Don Sao is not connected to the rest of Laos and has very little to offer: a very basic market with souvenirs, a few farms with undersized animals and coffee stalls selling instant coffee instead of the amazing Laotian coffee.

From Ban Sop Ruak there are trucks northwards to Mae Sai, the northernmost town in Thailand. There it is possible to cross to the town of Tachilek in Myanmar and renew the Thai visa during the process. Both towns form a huge market. Chiang Rai is an hour south of here.

Chiang Rai

On Thailand’s northern edge, Chiang Rai is a main city in the country’s north offering plenty of activities to the visitor in a serene ambience.

Chiang Rai is rich in memorials of King Mengrai; most of them are near downtown and are easily accessible. King Mengrai was the ruler of Nakhon Hiran Ngoen Yang (now known as Chiang Saen) before Chiang Rai was established as the administrative centre in 1262. He consolidated his power by merging the different city-states in the North and founded the Lanna Thai Kingdom in 1296 with Chiang Mai as the capital.

The Maekok River runs from Thathon in northern Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai City and then flows on to meet the Mekong River at Chiang Khong. Long-tailed boats can be hired, and Akha, Lisu, Lahu and Karen hill tribe villages can be visited. Treks to the nearby mountains and villages are one of the town’s main attractions.

Chiang Rai is home to some of the most important Buddhist temples in the country, including Wat Phra Kaeo where the Emerald Buddha was discovered.

Chiang Mai

The former capital of the One Million Elephants Kingdom became in the last generation the City of the One Million Guesthouses and the main center for travelers in north Thailand.

Old Chiang Mai is square shaped and surrounded by the ruined Old Wall and a moat, these are the best preserved in Thailand, offering a rare opportunity to look into medieval Thailand. Nowadays, only the corners stand, though their bricks structure is collapsing under the weight of age and the bricks are nowadays arranged in heavily slanted lines. The corners usually feature colorful works of art – like occasional giant floating flowers - and are cheerfully illuminated during the evenings.

The Tha Pae Gate is a restored part of the wall on the very center of its western side; the gates allowed entry to the city during the 19th century. On the gate there is a scripture featuring the beautiful ancient Thai letters; those are rounder than the modern ones and resemble very much Burmese scripture. The main tourists’ area in town – featuring restaurants, hotels, English bookstores and travel agencies – is here.

Walking around the walls at an easy pace takes less than two hours and is a wonderful opportunity to watch classical Thai architecture.

Deciding

Standing at Chiang Khong’s pier it is difficult to choose between these three wonderful options. If time is not a limitation, the best is to begin northwards with the Golden Triangle, then to advance southwards from Mae Sai to Chiang Rai. The last is well connected with Chiang Mai.

Otherwise, for the first time visitor to the Kingdom of Smiles, I strongly recommend beginning with Chiang Mai.

Enjoy!