An Overnight Stop and a Trek in the Troodos Mountains

This trail circles Mount Olympus (1,953 metres) without any steep gradients. Cypriots call their highest mountain Chionistra, meaning 'frost bite.' The Royal Air Force maintains a radio and listening station on the summit. The huge spherical structures could be seen as one of the giant Digenis's golf balls. From December to the end of February the Cyprus Ski Club operates ski lifts up the slopes.

In the winter the Marathassa valley is covered with snow and the winter we were there it was absolutely stunning. I was fascinated because the soft, white, winter clouds were so fluffy and low in the sky that they actually met the snow on the mountain top and the trails that circled it. The whole area was a blanket of white with like a misty but glassy glow.

In the spring when I visited the previous year, the valley was covered with a veil of white cherry blossom. Quince, plums and pears also grow on the terraces that were painstakingly carved out of the hillsides by earlier generations. Many of the gardens have grown wild, reverting to their natural state which is how I prefer it.

A modest spa has been established in Kalopanayiotis around a spring of sulphurous water. Modern pilgrims also come to visit the Ioannis Lambadistis monastery. The 11th century basilica is adorned with some fine frescoes. The Roman Catholic Chapel was added in the 15th century and the murals here betray clearly western influences. In the 18th century another church roofed with barrel vaulting was added and the silver coated skull of the town's patron saint is kept here. Olive and grape presses are displayed in the east wing of the monastery.

This is definitely off the beaten track but worth a visit because nestled in a remote spot surrounded by pine trees lies Cyprus's richest and most powerful monastery. The abbey formerly owned two estates as far away as the Black Sea coast and it is still the biggest landowner on Cyprus. When the Turks plundered the monastery in 1821, they are said to have made off with 16 camel loads of gold and silver. More pilgrims visit Kykko that any other monastery on the island. Many of the visitors come to express their thanks for a miracle attributed to Kykko and give presents or declare that the monastery will benefit from their inheritance. They no doubt hope that when the Day of Judgement comes, such acts of generosity will act in their favour.

The most important holy object is the icon of the Virgin Mary painted by St Luke which was presented to the monastery by the Byzantine Emperor Alexis Commenus in 1100. He was giving thanks to Isaiah, the monk who founded the monastery and who miraculously cured his daughter of gout. A silver mounting specially made in 1795 masks the icon, thought to be too sacred to gaze upon. No one has set eyes on it since that date.

On Throni tis Panayia or St Mary's throne, half an hour away to the west of the monastery, lies the grave of Archbishop Makarios. This senior religious dignitary and first president of Cyprus started his career as a novice in Kykko and for all his life had a close affinity with its religious community. A wishing tree hung with rags stands near his grave, testifying to the fact that even today Cypriots accord him almost saint like status.

If you wish to venture further into the woods beyond Kykko then I suggest you walk ( not in trainers but in full hiking gear) or drive carefully. Mountain bikes would be fun but with a small car you may get stuck in some of the stoney, mountainous roads. A four wheel drive would do the job but to hire one of those will probably work out expensive. We have got lost on the odd occasion and got stuck in the mud so watch out!

Some of the last surviving Troodos cedars grow in the Valley of the Cedars. These fine trees, larger and more beautiful than their Lebanese counterparts, can live for over 600 years. The rare and timid moufflons also live in the valley. Just as the species was on the point of extinction, succesful attempts were made to breed it in captivity, and the national airline, Cyprus Airways, has adopted it as its emblem. Without binoculars, it may be necessary to wait a long time for a glimpse of this sheep-like creature in the wild.

The forest station at the idyllically located village of Stavros tis Psokas further up the Cedar Valley keep a herd of about 60 moufflons in a reserve. If you like sheep then give this reserve a visit. They are quite nervous critters but have very pretty faces.

This beautiful monastery stands at 1,424 metres and is hidden away at the head of a fertile valley, under huge walnut and plane trees. Founded over a thousand years ago after an icon of Mary attributed to the evangelist Luke was discovered here, it became the summer residence of the Bishop of Pathos. But it has burnt down on more than one occasion since and the buildings are relatively recent. In the monastery church (1731), young women pilgrims come not only to worship the miracle-working Virgin Mary but also to put on a silver-coated belt which is said to help them to conceive a boy.

I have been to the Troodos in winter and summer but my timing has never coincided with the opening of the monastery so I am sorry but I am unable to comment on the works inside. The monastery is open daily from 9am until noon and from 2-8pm. It certainly is stunning from the outside especially when the cloud is low as it gives it a magical Narnia feel and because of it's setting can be seen from the lower valleys below.

A small holiday resort grew up at the village of Troodos during the British colonial era. Tavernas, hotels, stalls, a post office and a petrol station meet the needs of most visitors. This is not as touristy as you might think and because of it's setting is quite picturesque. The stalls alone are very interesting as most of the goods on sale are home-made foods from the mountains and also hand knitted garments. Four relatively easy nature trails that can be followed wearing trainers start here. Leaflets about the walks should be available in boxes at the start. They show the route and give explanations in English about the sites. Most tourist offices will also supply them.

The Mill Hotel
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We came across this hotel quite by accident. It was while we were heading for the village of Troodos and decided that it was time to stop as the evening was closing in and we hadn't found any suitable accommodation. The road left would have taken us into Troodos but we took the right turning to Kyperounda and followed the hilly road down the mountain. If you take the left turn at the bridge you will enter the village of Kakopetria. This is where the Mill Hotel is situated and what an unusual sight it is.
Built into the mountain this building is an awesome sight when looking up to the top floor. The building has been renovated as originally the old Mill stopped working in the 1950's as milling became expensive and imported flour became available.This led to the mill closing down and eventually it fell into disrepair until it was bought by private owners and in 1979 work started on the derelict building to renovate it back to its beautiful Greek traditional style.
The wonderful piece of architecture is made from traditional stone and wood. It consists of three floors which house the hotel, restaurant and souveneir shops.

Reception and Checking In
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The reception area is on the second floor and consists of a lobby and large seating area where you can chill out with a drink. This area always reminds me of a private library like you see in old films where there is a log fire and cosy armchairs dotted around. It is a very pleasant room and as soon as you enter you feel welcomed and very cosy.

Checking in is very simple - you just hand over your passport and when the receptionist has taken the name and passport number you are then given it back and you can go up to your room or stay back a while to have a glass of wine in the lobby to get the feel of the hotel.

Reservations can be made on line but on this occassion we were able to reserve a room straight away without booking in advance.

Our Room
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The room we stayed in was very pretty in a simple way. The colours were of a sandalwood colour with one open rough stone wall and beautiful stone floors. We had a double bed which was extremely comfortable with fresh linen changed everyday. The bed and other furniture in the room which consisted of a set of drawers, small table with an art noveau style reading lamp, bed side table, two very comfortable old style chairs and wardrobe were of a dark colour which I think was dark oak. The window frame was wooden with a lace curtain and heavier silk curtain in a deeper shade of sandalwood tied back so you could see the most spectacular views of the mountains and village below. Talk about room with a view! This was spectacular.

A telephone and television are available for use. The television has local TV channels and also satelite TV with over a hundred channels. Internet connection is also available in every room although the connection speed isn't lightning. A mini bar was well stocked with beer, mineral water, orange and apple juice and a selection of spirits.

My son's room was of a similar design but with more open stone walls and a single bed. He also had a wonderful view from his small window.

Bathroom
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Our bathroom was very modern with a startling white corner shaped jacuzzi bath and shower. White and blue Marble tiles gave the room a sense of harmony and immediately when sitting in the bath I felt totally relaxed. Two large heated towel rails adorned the wall with white soft towels placed strategically. We were very lucky to have two free standing washbasins with a full length mirror mounted behind so you could see every blemish, wrinkle and if you had cellulite or not. Quite frightening really! Granite surfaces were available at the side of the wash basins to put your tranquillments on. Everything was spotlessly clean and all the taps gleamed. The floor was tiled in a powder blue shade and the tiles were wonderfully cool for your tired feet after being out for a trek in the hills. I can't fault this bathroom at all - it was luxurious..

Lounge areas
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It isn't very often I spend time in a lounge area of a hotel but I wanted a nosy around the hotel and by accident I came across a selection of magazines so I decided to put my feet up for a couple of hours while the boys were outside playing snowballs. I have to say that the lounge area is very relaxing and has a traditional country feel to the room. Solid oak beams are exposed which I love as it reminds me of my country cottage when I lived in Cumbria. Bits of stone walls were also exposed which I think is very traditional but eye catching. The carpet was a deep shade of green which wasn't to my particular taste but it was kind of soothing in a away. The sofas and seats were elegant with their stripey gold and maroon silky covers which matched the long, wide and sumptious tie back curtains. French windows opened out on to a large balcony where you could stand and take in the fresh air and exquisite views of the Troodos mountains. Absolutely breathtaking.

Other views from the restaurant are exceptional also. This is a very large restaurant with seating on the terrace outside overlooking the valley and mountains or seating inside. The restaurant opens in the winter and is very popular with locals and visitors. I have to say I haven't seen anything quite like the inside of this restaurant. It is full of rustic traditional charm with a sloping beamed ceiling and tiled floor. There is an enormous fireplace which was roaring away when we visited - a perfect spot for sitting in front of to take the mountain chill away. The bar is long and made of solid oak. All tables and chairs have been crafted in traditional style with white tablecloths and red smaller cloths draped over the undercloth.
The staff are very welcoming and a happy bunch. The atmosphere was very relaxed with a chirpy feel inside and outside the restaurant.

The menu is extensive and caters for all members of the family whether they are vegetarians or not. Children are welcome and always made a fuss of. The Mill restaurant is known for its fresh trout which is grilled whole and accompanied by a home made garlic and lemon sauce. A platter of chips and a huge bowl of salad is served with the trout. My husband chose this for lunch the next day after our arrival as he loves fish. He said it was cooked to perfection. The fish meat flaked gently away from the bones and the taste was delicate.

My son chose a bowl of home-made vegetable soup followed by a Village salad and I went for steak cooked in a mushroom sauce. The sauce was wonderful - smooth and really tasted of mushrooms - you know that sort of nutty flavour. Delicious. As it was quite a cool day but sunny we decided to have a couple of beers each and coffee to finish off the meal. The food was very appetising and I can see why this would be a popular restaurant for residents and non-residents. The views alone are worth stopping by for even if you only have a drink and a salad.

As we were moving on after lunch and only stayed the one night we didn't look into what was happening in the village but I believe it is home to many craftmakers. There are cafes and other restaurants there also so if you stayed longer in the hotel there would be plenty to do to keep you occupied and I believe you can hire mountain bikes from the hotel if you are feeling energetic.
I have to say we thoroughly enjoyed our stay at The Mill Hotel and found the building absolutely charming and so pleased we came across this beautiful Greek building..

Yesterday I spent the whole day sorting out photographs from previous trips and reading through my scibbled travel notes. I came across some fantastic photos of my son and husband taken in the Troodos mountains. These date back from a trip of the island we did two years ago. My son was living in Athens at the time, it was Christmas, we wanted to travel and see the island so he agreed to meet us in Pathos as it was easy for him to fly from Athens to Limassol and then get a bus to Pathos.

Pathos was only a base really, somewhere to sleep. Although, the town itself and surounding area was very nice I can never stay put for long, always having itchy feet so within 24 hours from picking my son up, we hired a car and went into the mountains. The Troodos mountains have always fascinated me. Okay, I know they are not the higest mountains in the world but they certainly have a great beauty especially when the sun sets. The orange glow that circulates and forms shadows over the different peaks is a wonderful sight especially when mingled with the bright white carpets of snow that cover the mountain range.

Cyprus is the most densely wooded area in the Mediterranean due to the afforestation programme which began during colonial rule. In the woods around Mount Olympus, the island's highest mountain, there is a wide range of nature trails from which to choose. In my view, the most beautiful of these paths winds for two hours through various vegetation zones of the mountain, at the same time providing an insight into the geology of the region. The path runs from the Troodos forest station along a mountain stream to the idyllic Caledonian Falls and then on to sleepy Platres - a pleasant spot even at the height of summer and the Christmas holiday (this is a popular time for the locals to visit after Christmas Day). When I was there the snow was thick on the ground and looking out into the distance at the mountain range I couldn't tell where the fluffy clouds ended and the snow covered mountain tops started. Forest tracks through deserted terrain lead to Kykko, the richest monastery on Cyprus and close to where Achbishop Makarios is buried. Then it is on to to the forest station at Stavros tis Psokas. To cover this route in a hired car will take around two days that is without any long walks. Obviously you can just go out for a ride in the hills and return to your base but once I am on the road I like to keep going until I have surveyed the whole area. We spent two days hiking in the mountains and stayed over night at a wonderful hotel which you will be able to read about in my journal.

Another area which I found interesting if a little sad is the countryside around the abandoned Turkish villages of Souskiou in the sparsely populated Diarizos valley. Here you will see many derelict properties which serves as a reminder of the horrors suffered by the inhabitants during the civil war. In some ways it reminds me of the area travelling by car/bus from Orebic (Croatia) to Mostar. Desolate and forgotten.

I really can't recommend The Troodos mountains enough. It is a special mountain area; green, beautiful, tranquil and when the mist falls has a dreamlike quality. As you make your decline down the mountain region as the sun is setting it is like you are all alone in an imaginary land.

Out of all the places I have visited I was pleasantly surprised with Cyprus and the Troodos. The island was more beautiful than I expected and the mountains left a lasting impression. The people of Cyprus are warm, friendly and extremely laid back which are admirable qualities. Highly Recommended.

I will also say that it is very cheap and easy to rent a small car in Cyprus. You just go and pick up the keys and drive off - no paperwork or interrogation or fuss over credit cards. You don't even have to take it back to where you hired the car from - you leave it at your hotel/ accommodation or at the airport. They do the rest. Talk about being laid back - Brilliant.