The Relaxed and Stunning Beauty of Marlborough Wine Country...

A June 2008 trip to Blenheim by Red Mezz Best of IgoUgo

Montana WineryMore Photos

Of all the places I visited in this year in New Zealand, Marlborough was one of my favourites. Even in the New Zealand winter, this is a stunning location - and somewhat off the backpacker trail.

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Koanui Lodge and BackpackersBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Decent Low Budget Option"

Koanui Lodge
The difficulty with staying in Blenheim on a budget - is that it's almost impossible to do so. This is a beautiful area (though the town itself is fairly ordinary at best) and if you are going to spend any time in the amazing Marlborough wine country, then it would be my personal recommendation that you do so in at least a small amount of luxury, and enjoy some of the many amazing B&Bs and lodges out amongst the vineyards, as well as some of the great local food and wine options.

However - if you are on a budget or simply passing through and do want to take advantage of the area, then you can certainly do worse than the Koanui Backpackers.

The difficulty in staying in Blenheim on a budget is there are only about three budget accommodation/hostels in the area. And two of those only have a few rooms. When you add to that the large number of backpackers in New Zealand as well as the huge swell of migrant workers - then actually finding accommodation becomes very difficult.

It also means that it is a bit more costly than in other places in New Zealand.

Koanui is, in many ways, a tricky one to review. It has some very distinct ups and downs, so I will just break them down and let the reader decide which might be the most useful for them.

The upsides:

Firstly, the room we stayed at was excellent. For budget accommodation it was very, very good. There were only a few rooms in the Koanui available, but the double ensuite room was hotel quality. The bathroom was excellent, very clean and up to date. The room was well put together, very clean and well equipped. Better than any other hostel we stayed in. There was even a TV and some wine glasses. As well as towels and hand towels. We had a sliding door and a balcony and some degree of temperature control - and all in all couldn't complain about the room in anyway.

The staff also were very good. It was a husband and wife who owned it. We had no problems with our booking, were welcomed in and had a very nice chat before we checked into our room. All was well there.

The location was pretty central - being just about walking distance into town, and just a couple minutes walk from a McDonalds and a grocery store.

Unfortunately, the location also (in my opinion) ranks in the downsides.

Downsides:

The location - the mostly central - isn't very nice. It is right on a main road, and though there is some parking out back, it's not in the nicest area and though I wouldn't go so far as to say 'seedy' - certainly this is not a nice spot to be enjoying your purchases from wine country in the evening. And the McDonalds and grocery that are near by are really unpleasant and flooded with seasonal workers and backpackers - making for a deeply unpleasant atmosphere.

The price - even though the room itself was hotel quality - it was also the most expensive hostel we stayed at anywhere in New Zealand at $80 pn. This on its own wouldn't have been too bad given the quality of the room, had it not been for the rest of the hostel.

The main downside of Koanui for me was the rest of the hostel. Though there was a kitchen and common area, we didn't go near them - as most of this apartment block-like hostel was filled with long-stay seasonal workers. It meant that you felt like you were staying in an apartment building with lots and lots of students and backpackers who lived there. The kitchen - though basically clean - was in constant use and it was all living space rather than a common room. There were always live-ins lounging in every available outdoor space, with their doors open and the contents of their rooms often spilling out onto the landing.
The courtyard below had a pool table, also always in use - and the games being played there went on loudly late into the night.

Also - though our room was upstairs - it was above the lounge - so the live-ins got very noisy at night, and it was hard not to hear all of it.

I have very mixed feelings about this stay - but if you don't mind the backpackers or the price - or are just looking for a decent room to sleep in, then this could do very well for you.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Red Mezz on July 8, 2009

Koanui Lodge and Backpackers
33 Main St. Blenheim, New Zealand
+64 (3) 578 7487

The Vines VillageBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Perfect Stop - On Your Way In or Out...or Both..."

The Vines Village Shop
One of my favourite little stops in Marlborough wine country is The Vines Village.
When I visited it was still under a bit of revamp and construction - and though that didn't diminish the experience at all, I envy those who get to visit it once the construction is complete, as it is sure to be a stunning venue.

A great touch to the traditional 'wine country' setting - the Vines Village is just a little shop/cafe which allows you to sample all sorts of the local produce, and not just the wines.

This is the perfect way to break up your wine tour, as one vineyard after another can begin to blend together - and a little respite from all of the wine in the middle of the day is always a nice thing.

The coffee and other cafe foods they offer are superb. If you are doing your wine tour of Marlborough on bike this is a great place to stop for breakfast, dinner - or anything in between as it sit right in the centre of many of the best wineries and is very easy to get to.

Likewise, if you are travelling by car or even on a tour - this is a great place to stop in the middle (or end) of your tour for a coffee, a bit of cake or a sandwich and to sample some other delights of the region.

There's a wonderful eating area both inside and out of the cafe. The inside offers a small bar area, as well as ample seating in a big open area with a view of the surrounding hills and the small waterway behind. And there are numerous picnic tables outside near the water itself if the weather is clear and you fancy some outdoor refreshment (which I can highly recommend myself as I enjoyed several coffees and a delightful white chocolate muffin near the water's edge.)

Though the best thing that the Vines has to offer is its numerous samples.

You can actually sample wines here, as well, if you would like to consolidate that experience into less travelling about - or indeed if you just want to sample more wines.
The tastings they do at The Vines is from a number of smaller local vineyards who perhaps don't offer a cellar door tasting themselves.
I would say, however, that easily the most ordinary and least memorable wines we tasted were at The Vines. And because the host of the tasting didn't know the vineyards directly and was also a waitress - the information about each wine was significantly less knowledgeable than at the other wineries.
There is, however, the option to try them if you would like.

But far superior at The Vines are the tastings of the local olives, preserves, oils and dipping sauces, chocolates, mulled wines, vodkas, and numerous other delights.

There are two sections near the back of the Vines building (easily found when coming in the front door) one of which samples things made of local olives. You can try many different olive oils, infusions, dips and chutneys - all of them gloriously tasteful. The little shop is filled with lots of little local made goods as well as foods - and this is a spectacular place to pick up little treats to bring home as well as souvenirs and gifts.

Farther in the back of the shop you find the Prinzels section - a local producer of all things wonderful - and there are only a few suppliers through out New Zealand.

This room is filled to the rafters with ready laid samples of all things imaginable - no need to request a taste of anything. And if there is anything on the shelves you would like to taste that isn't laid out - they will happily accommodate you.

I highly recommend that you sample the bottled Mulled wine, some of the chocolate and butterscotch liqueurs, and as many of the rice oil and olive dipping sauces you can manage. All of them were breathtakingly stunning - and it became a place that we stopped in often when passing through the area.
(And it was also where most of the Christmas presents sent back to the UK and the US came from.)

Also, if you are a gin drinker - you must sample their award winning gin, which is arguably one of the best in the world.

The Vines Village is a must stop for anyone going through the Marlborough region - even if wine tasting isn't your thing. A perfect stopping point to relax and soak up the scenery and the delectable fare of the region.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Red Mezz on May 18, 2009

The Vines Village
193 Rapuara Road Blenheim, New Zealand
+64 3 572 8444

Domaine Georges MichelBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "The Nicest Whites in Marlborough..."

Domaines Georges Michel Winery
Though my claim in the title of this review if highly arguable in Marlborough, New Zealand - and through out the wine community; for me and the wines I sample in the area, it was a hand's down conclusion.

Tucked away in the beautiful hills of Marlborough on the northern corner of the South Island of New Zealand you find Domaines Georges Michel's stunning winery.

(And no - it's not pronounced 'George Michael.’)

It's a simple winery, and a beautiful vineyard - about 15 or so minutes outside of Blenheim and on the Rapaura road, almost to Renwick.
All the wineries are very well sign posted in Marlborough - and as you will probably be cruising along enjoying all the sites and the scenery anyway - it is certainly not difficult to find.

After an entire weekend of wine sampling - this was our final stop. And to say that we saved the best for last - wouldn't be going too far.

Each of the wineries that we sampled from had something unique to offer - and in many respects it would be incredibly difficult to narrow down an absolute favourite.

However - there was something profoundly special about the white wines we tasted and Georges Michel's - and I can simply say that regardless in your taste for wines I can't recommend it highly enough.

It's a beautiful little building sitting amidst the vineyards - and we were greeted by yet another extremely pleasant and helpful hostess. She talked to us extensively about the grower and his daughter - Swan, both of whom develop the wines together. It's a beautiful little family run vineyard - with an incredible touch of class.

After sampling dozens of wines from many different completely unique growers over a span of a few days - it can become hard to distinguish one from the other. And in particular - if you aren't a connoisseur of wines, you may begin to find them all blending together.

So whether you would like to end the visit well, or want something to cleanse the palate and remind you of the incredible distinction between wines - I can offer you the option of Domaines Georges Michel.

The desert wines, something I had never really acquired a taste for, were sublime. There was something profoundly nice about those that we sampled - and as always it adds to the tasting experience when the one conducting the tasting is as well informed as the ones at Georges Michel.
The white wines in general were glorious - and if you sample no other whites in Marlborough I would recommend that you stop here.

As I have mentioned in previous reviews I am traditionally a red wine drinker - and even so it was all I could do not to leave with cases of their beautiful Marlborough vintage.


  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Red Mezz on May 18, 2009

Domaine Georges Michel
56 Vintage Lane, RD3, Blenheim
+64 (3) 572-7230

Lawson's Dry Hills Best of IgoUgo

Attraction | "The nicest whites in Marlborough..."

Lawson's Dry Hills
Though my claim in the title of this review if highly arguable in Marlborough, New Zealand - and through out the wine community; for me and the wines I sample in the area, it was a hand's down conclusion.

Tucked away in the beautiful hills of Marlborough on the northern corner of the South Island of New Zealand you find Domaines Georges Michel's stunning winery.

(And no - it's not pronounced 'George Michael.’)

It's a simple winery, and a beautiful vineyard - about 15 or so minutes outside of Blenheim and on the Rapaura road, almost to Renwick.
All the wineries are very well sign posted in Marlborough - and as you will probably be cruising along enjoying all the sites and the scenery anyway - it is certainly not difficult to find.

After an entire weekend of wine sampling - this was our final stop. And to say that we saved the best for last - wouldn't be going too far.

Each of the wineries that we sampled from had something unique to offer - and in many respects it would be incredibly difficult to narrow down an absolute favourite.

However - there was something profoundly special about the white wines we tasted and Georges Michel's - and I can simply say that regardless in your taste for wines I can't recommend it highly enough.

It's a beautiful little building sitting amidst the vineyards - and we were greeted by yet another extremely pleasant and helpful hostess. She talked to us extensively about the grower and his daughter - Swan, both of whom develop the wines together. It's a beautiful little family run vineyard - with an incredible touch of class.

After sampling dozens of wines from many different completely unique growers over a span of a few days - it can become hard to distinguish one from the other. And in particular - if you aren't a connoisseur of wines, you may begin to find them all blending together.

So whether you would like to end the visit well, or want something to cleanse the palate and remind you of the incredible distinction between wines - I can offer you the option of Domaines Georges Michel.

The desert wines, something I had never really acquired a taste for, were sublime. There was something profoundly nice about those that we sampled - and as always it adds to the tasting experience when the one conducting the tasting is as well informed as the ones at Georges Michel.
The white wines in general were glorious - and if you sample no other whites in Marlborough I would recommend that you stop here.

As I have mentioned in previous reviews I am traditionally a red wine drinker - and even so it was all I could do not to leave with cases of their beautiful Marlborough vintage.


  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Red Mezz on April 30, 2009

Lawson's Dry Hills
Alabama Road Blenheim
+64 (3)578 7674

Montana WineryBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Big Name Wines in a Very Photogenic Spot..."

Montana Winery
In every wine region I have visited in the world - it always seems it's the big name wines you came to see who turn out to be the showiest and yet least interesting tasting of all the wines you end up sampling.

And I can't say that that is any different in Marlborough. That isn't to say that Montana's isn't a vineyard worth visiting by any means. It's worth stopping in if for nothing else but for some photo ops of the building itself and some of the surrounding vineyards (though unfortunately this particular winery does sit right on the main road - which does take away quite a bit from the atmosphere of the place.

However - it is an excellent first stop on the wine trail.
First of all - it is extremely easy to find, and the first big winery on your way into Blenheim and right on the state Hwy 1 heading north. It's a great place to stop - get a feel for the region and taste a big name wine (if you haven't already done so) to get an idea of what the standard in the area is.

I find this quite a good way to get to know what the average area wine is, which does seem to enhance the experience of the more interesting wines done by the boutique wineries through out the region.

It's also good in that when you leave the country, Montana may be one of the few New Zealand wines readily available to you - and at the winery you can sample a larger selection than you may normally have access to and know if and what they do that you really like.

There's also an excellent gift shop and cafe in Montana's and you can sample more than just their Marlborough vineyards, but some from all over New Zealand. (also very useful if you are trying to decide what other regions you want to get to on your trip)

As I have said - they don't have the most interesting wines you will taste in the area at Montana's, but they do have a very, very sound selection of both red and white wines to sample - and I did thoroughly enjoy all that I tasted.

A very good place to start your Marlborough wine journey - better at the beginning of a tasting session than the end - and also good to stop in an get souvenirs and gifts for those back at home.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Red Mezz on April 28, 2009

Montana Winery
Blenheim, New Zealand

Hunter's WineryBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Beautifully Set Up and Excellent Wines..."

Hunter's Winery
Of all the wineries I visited in New Zealand - Marlborough in particular, I find it hard to narrow it down to a favourite. All of the wines sampled and all the locations were so very different and impressive that it is very hard to classify them from best to worst.

However, if I did have to classify one of my favourite all around winery experiences, Hunter's ranks very near the top of that list. Easy to find on the map (ask at an I-site or your hotel or hostel for a winery tourist map which will lay out all the wineries to visit, what their hours are, and what time of the year you can sample their wines.) it is set amongst the golden fields of Marlborough, and has one of the most beautiful set ups of any that we visited.

Jane Hunter - a world renowned maker of beautiful wines and one of the few wines I was familiar with prior to my visit to New Zealand - made it very high up my list of wineries I wanted to visit on this trip. Given how many vineyards there are in the area, it can be a little bit boggling choosing the ones you will stop in and see - so aside from the ones I will recommend here, I do suggest you ask a local which are the best ones to see.

Hunter's was certainly no disappointment. With vine covered trellises covering the entrance and walkway down to both the cafe/restaurant, tasting area and art filled garden.

The garden in the back - aside from some amazing plants and trees enclosing the area, is filled with some really beautiful sculpture and artwork which I highly recommend that you wander back and enjoy.

I didn't have time to sample the menu in the restaurant, though it was beautifully put together and a very beautiful and relaxing atmosphere.

The wine tasting itself took place in a small back room with a view of the garden. The wines we tasted were all profoundly good, and in my opinion had some of the best reds that we sampled in Marlborough (an area predominantly known for it's white wines) The hostess who gave us our tasting was very pleasant and well informed (as were all of those we visited in the area) and I was so impressed with one wine called 'The Chase' that I bought a bottle on the spot. (something I hadn't intended to do until I returned to the area on my way back through.)

With a rich and varied selection of wines - this winery is certainly one not to miss on the Marlborough wine trail - particularly if you favor red wines.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by Red Mezz on April 28, 2009

Hunter's Winery
Rapaura Rd. Marlborough, New Zealand
0-3-572 8489

Marlborough vineyards
One of the problems I found in travelling around New Zealand is that the sites and things to do in an area often catered to either one group or another - either the backpackers or those travelling with a lot of money to spend. And though it's a bit different than the rest of New Zealand as far as the tourism is concerned, Marlborough for me did the combination of attractions beautifully.

Though I did mention in the start of this review that wine country isn't quite so full of those on the backpacker trail - the opposite is also largely true. This comes from the fact that many of the backpackers and student travellers who do come through New Zealand often spend time working in the Blenheim and Marlborough areas during harvest time.

And Blenheim especially does seem to be an absolute hot spot for those who work in the vineyards and seems to be populated almost entirely by seasonal workers. (The town turns into a very strange, and very different place in the evenings when the workers are on their way home from the fields.)

However - when travelling around Marlborough itself and doing the wine trail there seems to be a more subdued trickle of any certain type of traveller - and you do seem to get a more eclectic group of people who have all come to see the area and sample it's wines for their own reasons. And this, for me, was a very nice change of pace from some of the other places we had visited.

Though I always recommend that you have your own transport while visiting New Zealand, there are many wine tasting tours to be had from Blenheim if you don't, or want to sample until your heart's content.

There are even quite a few people who rent bicycles which you can ride from vineyard to vineyard. And though I wouldn't personally recommend trying to bike after too many samplings, it is a beautiful spot to do a bit of riding in and taste a few of the stunning local wines.

There is a little bit for everyone in this area, whether you are on a very tight budget and only want to sample wines, or have a bit more to spend and are happy to partake in all the area has to offer, including some really amazing B&Bs right in the vineyards and with incredible food and wine on offer.

About the Writer

Red Mezz
Red Mezz
Inverness, Scotland

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