A Two Day Stopover in Singapore

This four-storey Temple sits majestically just down from the Scarlet Hotel at the edge of China Town. It is the biggest Buddhist temple in Singapore and one of the holiest shrines in the Buddhist world. A Chinese cultural complex it holds the Sacred Dendrobium Buddha Tooth and Relics, as well as many rare Buddhist artefacts on exhibition in its Museum.

The Tang Dynasty inspired the architecture, interiors and statuary, an era when Buddhism flourished in China in an age of artistic and cultural vibrancy. Construction of the temple began in 2004 and finished in early 2007. It cost $50 million.

Visitors are welcome as long as they follow some basic etiquette. Men should wear long trousers and women’s skirts should come well below the knee (although a sarong wrapped over shorts is acceptable) and no bare shoulders. Do not bring non-vegetarian food or pets inside the Temple. You can take photographs or use a camcorder, however it is bad manners to pose with your back to a statue of the Buddha, so please act with respect.

As I entered the 27 feet high hall on the first floor I stood in awe of a 15-feet carved wooden Maitreya Buddha. One hundred Buddhas in various spiritual poses on both sides of the hall and 100 dragons hovering above them added to my awe. From the grandeur and fine detail seen in this hall alone, visitors can recognise the work of dedicated craftspeople that contributed their skills to building this Temple.

This is a place of ardent warship. All day-long monks in this hall chant a mantra to the Buddha.

The second floor is the Exhibition Hall is where you can learn about Buddhist. If you still crave for more, go up to the Buddhist Culture Museum on the third floor. It is hard after working through the history and beliefs of different religions not to think that all religions have a common thread. The thought struck me again here as it has done in other temples. The common thread is to do with bringing out the best in humanity – the reverse often happens!

Up on the fourth floor sits the Buddha Tooth Relic inside a two-metre 420kg solid-gold stupa in a dazzlingly ornate room. The hall glitters with gold. Besides the stupa, the canopy above it and the tiles on the floor also carry gold veneer. At 10:30 and 19:30, the monks hold ceremonies to open the chamber.

Also worth seeing are the peaceful rooftop garden, where a huge prayer wheel sits inside a Buddha Pavilion. Growing here are pure elegant blooms of the Dendrobium Buddha Tooth, an orchid species specially named after the temple. Visitors can also rest and enjoy refreshing tea and healthy vegetarian snacks in the cosy Lotus Heart Tea House on the 2nd floor or visit the Dining Hall in the basement where free vegetarian meals are available daily.

A shop on the ground floor allows visitors to buy various items, including the Dendrobium Buddha Tooth orchid and books, CDs, handicrafts and commemorative souvenirs.

The temple is a must-see for anyone interested in Chinese architecture and culture.

Having time to spare we decided to take a river cruise. It’s a relaxing way to see the waterfront city. We joined the boat, perhaps fittingly, at Raffles Landing Site. Back then when he landed all that existed here was virgin forest and a small fishing village.

The Singapore River Cruises & Leisure Company ran the cruise. They pioneered river cruises through the city by introducing original bumboats to this leisure industry in 1887. These Chinese boats played an important role in developing the island into one of the world's busiest ports. Each boat has two eyes? The Chinese believed that these would guide the boat and passengers safely to their destination.

When Raffles signed the agreement securing the memorable title of Free Port for Singapore, this triggered a landslide of immigrants from neighbouring countries. Within six months, Boat Quay, one of five quays Raffles had built, became a hothouse for trading, and in the 1860's, it accounted for three-quarters of all shipping businesses done at Singapore. Raffles statue at his landing site looks approvingly across at it. Here was the starting point of all that is Singapore today - wealth, hard work and a wish to succeed.

Only a century ago, suntanned coolies balanced heavy gunnysacks of rice over their shoulders, with springy gangplanks under their feet, loaded and unloaded a bewildering array of produce from these bumboats to Boat Quay. Now these boats served to glide us smoothly under old and new bridges – each given its name and age by expert commentary. Towering office blocks in the financial area, historical monuments regally positioned, adding grandeur and age-old charm to the river area.

Today, Boat Quay is still buzzing with life and activity. The waterfront now plays host to a colourful kaleidoscope of restaurants, wine bars, entertainment spots and retail shops. The bustling market atmosphere of bygone days still comes alive amid the rows of charming shops. A fellow passenger on the bumboat referred to it as ‘Robbers Quay’. Interested I asked him why he thought that. His experience had been similar to mine – persuaded to enter a restaurant by the promise of discounts which in no way brought the bill down to a reasonable figure. High restaurant bills thought seemed part of the course in Singapore – no doubt due to having no land mass to grow food.

Clarke Quay further upstream is the site of scores of 19th century colonial warehouses converted into bars, outdoor restaurants, clubs, souvenir shops and mobile stalls that present the ‘Old Singapore’ to the tourists - a delightful mix of modern and traditional.

Robertson Quay is another area of interest. It is the largest of the three quays. This lesser known gem of the Singapore River provides an interesting array of evening entertainment. Compared with Boat Quay, Robertson Quay is more laid-back, with an eclectic mix of international restaurants with alfresco dining, wine bars, arts houses and hotel cafes Each caters to a different type of crowd so it's well worth doing some exploring.

At the downstream limit to the cruise is Merlion Park. Here stands the Merlion statue – the city’s iconic mascot with the head of a lion and the body of a fish. Every tourist with a camera lines it up in his or her lens.

Moored along various parts of the river were many bumboats, which suggested that March was a low point in Singapore’s tourist season. Having the river mostly to ourselves added to the peacefulness of the occasion.

Lying almost on the equator, Singapore is a thriving city-state with the busiest harbour in the world. Indeed it was realising its strategic position on world trade routes and its large natural harbour that persuaded Sir Stamford Raffles of the British East India Company to establish a colony here. Raffles founded Singapore City in 1819. As part of his grand plan for the city he recommended setting aside different areas of the town for the each of the various ethnic groups

This former trading post and colony has carved a unique niche for itself in its two centuries of existence - offering a combination of modern skyscrapers, remnants of tropical rainforest and colourful ethnic urban areas, each with distinct characteristics. While Chinese, Indian and Malay form the backbone of the population it also carries a huge foreign resident and transit population of Americans, Burmese, Europeans, Indonesians, Japanese and other Asians.

Arab Street, centre of the Arabian quarter, is the traditional home of Singapore’s textile dealers. It is also a good place for general shopping. Chinatown is a bustling and colourful area with shops, teahouses and restaurants, and with several temples such as the Budda Tooth Temple and the Sri Mariamman Temple, the oldest Hindu national monument in Singapore. Serangoon Road is the centre of Little India. It is the area to poke around for bangles, gold jewellery, silk saris and Indian spices.

No trip to Singapore would be complete without a visit to the world-famous Raffles Hotel for a ‘Singapore Sling’ in the Long Bar. A statue of Sir Stamford Raffles stands on the banks of the Singapore River where he first set foot in the then fishing village. Singapore has fulfilled his dreams in spectacular fashion! Nearby is Parliament House, the oldest government building in the city.

Raffles originally decided on five quays. Of these, Boat Quay, Clark Quay and Robertson Quay lines the river through the heart of the city. Boat Quay flanks the river opposite Raffles landing site. It has now become one of Singapore’s most popular bar and recreation areas, with traditional shop-houses converted into restaurants and clubs. Upriver on the same side of the river is Clarke Quay a complex of colonial warehouses converted into bars, outdoor restaurants, clubs, souvenir shops and mobile stalls that present the ‘Old Singapore’ to the tourists.

Orchard Road is the ‘Fifth Avenue’ or ‘Oxford Street’ of Singapore, and just as bustling, with its vast luxury malls, shops ranging from stores to sellers of souvenir tat, as well as cafes and restaurants.

The Botanic Gardens, over 52 hectares (128 acres) of landscaped parkland and primary jungle to the west of the city contains a wide range of animal and plant life. Within the gardens is the National Orchid Garden, which has the largest collection in the world.

Other interesting attractions in Singapore City include the Singapore Art Museum, the Asian Civilization Museum; the National Museum & Art Gallery; the Singapore Mint Coin Gallery.

As well as the wealth of tourist attraction one of the most noticeable features of this bustling city-state is its cleanness. Crime is almost unknown due in part to the severe punishments metered out to those that transgress. With warm and humid temperatures throughout the year Singapore has no distinct wet or dry season. It is compact and contains a wealth of interesting places for tourists to visit. Its one drawback is the high cost of dining.

Scarlet Hotel opened in December 2004, created from a series of houses and shops strung together to form a charming hotel. The hotel stands ideally placed close to China Town. There’s a market across the street, easy access to the metro, good restaurants in the neighbourhood and the Buddha Tooth Temple nearby is a don’t-miss sight.

Scarlet receptionists were welcoming and found our reservation quickly. From the lobby, I could feel the style of the hotel with its various textures and colours matched almost in wilful contradiction, to provide a mood, which is dramatic, daring and bold - a boutique hotel quirky but with class.

A member of staff showed us to our air-conditioned room and explained its layout and the operation of its various gadgets. Water and a fizzy drink were free but the variety of other items in the chill cabinet came at a price. Like the other staff he was pleasant and couldn't do enough for us. All were knowledgeable about the city.

Our travel agent had booked an upstairs room for us with a balcony and seating area. Luxury indeed for it is my understanding that all Standard rooms have no window. The room was modern while on the small side and we found it comfortable. We had a huge comfy bed with clean white linen and a selection of pillows. The large wardrobe contained an umbrella, which we put to immediate use on our first day in Singapore. The bathroom had a walk in shower and enough light and space as well as quality toiletries. As compact as the room was, it had all that we could wish for and was kept spotlessly clean - as is all Singapore.

The room featured a digital in-room safe, minibar, tea and coffee making facilities. It also had a telephone with voice mail, work desk with data port for PC and fax connection, hi-speed Internet access, colour television with cable and movie channel, CD/VCD/DVD player and hairdryer. The hotel also had dry-cleaning laundry and concierge services. For relaxation, guests can take advantage of the leisure facilities including gymnasium and Jacuzzi – and a free newspaper.

Arriving at 2.30 in the afternoon after a long flight with the added complication of an eight-hour time difference we decided to eat in on the first night. The food in the restaurant and service proved excellent. The menu had the prices presented so discretely that I hadn’t noticed them. When the bill came I couldn’t believe the high cost. Perhaps that was why only another couple occupied the dining room. I assumed it was because it was an hotel that prices were high but next day found all restaurants in Singapore charged high prices! The breakfast was good with a choice of pastries, fruit and a cooked selection.

A short walk round the back of the hotel there is a huge undercover food area. There must have been thousands of people eating there. Unfortunately we were never able to get a free table there but the meals looked out of this world and much cheaper than in the hotel.

Apart from the expensive restaurant I highly recommend this hotel.

Chinese were coming over to work on construction sites and as tailors, barbers, cobblers or servants from the early days of Singapore. Eventually they were to form 75% of the population and became ardent supporters of British ways.

The Chinese in Singapore were integral to the development of the colony. To understand the part they played visit the Chinatown Heritage Centre a joint project between the Singapore Tourism Board and the National Heritage Board. It tells by video and artefacts the lives they expected to lead and the shocking lives they actually led.

A block of old houses in which Chinese lived and ran their businesses forms the centre of the heritage centre. Now converted to their former state they bring back those earlier times.

Life of the ethnic Chinese in these days was simple and almost everyone lived in rented cubicles. These often no longer than a bed length in one direction and little more in the other offered little space. Overcrowding created squalor, dirt and disease. In a space, which seemed impossibly small to live in, somehow they also carried out their trades.

In the museum we walked through rooms filled with period antiques of coolie living quarters, shops, clan association houses, and other places that were prominent in daily life. The displays carry descriptions to explain the immigrants experience.

The basement forms a part of a building where several families lived. How seven people could squeeze into the cramped space is unbelievable.

Each of the three upper levels took us to a different time in the history of Chinatown and allowed us to trace the lives of its early occupants. The first level shows what life was like during the olden days when everyone lived in rented cubicles. These formed shop houses and business premises, which doubled up as sleeping quarters during the night.

The hard life of the migrants resulted in many of them seeking solace in the four evils: opium smoking, prostitution, gambling and secret societies as explained on Level 2. On a brighter note, Chinatown, in its heyday, was also bustling with life and activity. Different races celebrated traditional festivals, thus making Chinatown culturally vibrant and unique. Level 3 showed celebrations of this 1950s era.

Present-day Chinatown still bursts into life and colour during the festive season. Some of the more popular celebrations include the Lunar New Year, Mid-Autumn Festival and even Theemithi, the Hindu fire-walking ceremony.

This museum is a must see for all those who wish to delve into the depths of Chinatown's past. It is a small, well laid out museum at 48 Pagoda Street in the heart of Chinatown. It takes only 45 minuets to an hour to visit the entire museum and the area is also an excellent place for souvenir shopping! Don't let this museum pass you by.

The Chinatown Heritage Centre is open from 9:00 to 20:00 every day including public holidays. It also includes guided tours of its galleries every hour.