Hitchhiking & Sightseeing Albania

1 Shard of Glass in my Foot Please

Best Of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Quote:

History -Durres, first discovered by the adventurous southern neighbours the Greeks in 627 BC, is Albania's largest city along the coast and it's no.1 port. The Illyrians (ancestors of what are now Albanians) moved in in around 312 BC but were soon forced away and the town changed hands between the Romans and the Greeks followed by the Bulgarians and then it became part of the Venetians large empire. The Turks got hold of it in 1501 and the Albanians and Durres finally got independence in 1912, unfortunately it only lasted for 3 days (is that the shortest ever?), this time Albania fell to the Serbs and it was until the following year when they raised the flag again and crowned Durres the c...Read More

History -

Durres, first discovered by the adventurous southern neighbours the Greeks in 627 BC, is Albania's largest city along the coast and it's no.1 port. The Illyrians (ancestors of what are now Albanians) moved in in around 312 BC but were soon forced away and the town changed hands between the Romans and the Greeks followed by the Bulgarians and then it became part of the Venetians large empire. The Turks got hold of it in 1501 and the Albanians and Durres finally got independence in 1912, unfortunately it only lasted for 3 days (is that the shortest ever?), this time Albania fell to the Serbs and it was until the following year when they raised the flag again and crowned Durres the capital.

But 1913 wasn't a great time to start a nation as WW1 was just around the corner, poor old Durres once again became occupied by Italy and later by the Austrian-Hungarians and had to wait until 1918 to get itself together once again! Durres remained the temporary capital of Albania until 1920. Notoriously decrepit during the 19th century, Durres suffered an earthquake in 1926 and the rebuilding which then took place gave the city it's current appearance. Having had good investment from the Italians and a new harbour built, Durres was just starting to look promising when the World War II came around, it was annexed to fascist Italy and then Nazi Germany. Originally used as a location for an Italian attempt to invade the Greeks, it was then heavily bombed by Allied Forces and the port was blown up by the Germans who by 1944 were backing out at this time (cowards!). A rather quiet period of communism followed for the next 35 years and when it collapsed Durres became the no.1 point of mass emmigration. The close distance to Italy is ever so apparent and boats would race across throughout the 90's and early 2000's (following an influx of refugees from Kosovo), if nearly intercepted by the Italian police, the gangs would throw passengers into the water, so that the boats had to stop. When purchasing a "ticket to freedom", it was said that people were given two chances if they didn't make it the first time. Boats from the port were also forced to Italy at gunpoint. All in all making for lively sea traditions!

Getting to Durres
-------------------------

I've been informed that the roads are now considerably better than they were when I visited and that the coastal road down to the south is finally completed. I arrived by train from Tirana (20p/1 hour), an interesting journey in itself, the train had no windows and went at a slow pace whilst kids walked up and down saying the names of the products they had for sale in a sing-song. Onlookers from the nearby fields would also stare at the train but we were fortunate enough not to get any stones thrown through the windows by kids (which is known to happen). There are also daily ferry boats to Bari, Italy (and probably Brindisi, Italy and Koper, Slovenia)

Staying in Durres
---------------------------

I stayed in a hotel room for about 5 euros, approached by someone with a room at the station (a regular occurance in the Balkans), who spoke good English (a first during the trip in Albania), he agreed to show it. Quite a nice place actually and had the all important a/c, very important as it was 42 degrees celsius ;)!.

Durres in general
------------------------

Italian is widely spoken throughout Durres and German is probably the 2nd most used language. Plenty of richer Albanians in Durres, those who have worked abroad and are now living it up on the coast or have returned for a holiday.

There are several interesting buildings in Durres such as the Estrada theatre, the philharmonic orchestra, the library and the Museum of History. The harbour is a nice place to go and there are also numerous beaches but I would choose somewhere else if you want a beach holiday, the beach is scruffy, busy, broken glass, parts of boats.. all kinds of rubbish there. Worst beach I've ever seen, no idea how people can sunbath amongst litter! When I asked locals why it was so untidy, they said "All the shit comes from Italy" (which I found quite entertaining, they're not keen on the Italians due to their incredible racism towards Albanians!). Durres has a relaxed atmosphere, people are friendly and helpful and I had some excellent pizzas there. It's not worth visiting for longer than a day though, there are much more interesting places like Gjirokaster to go to. Read Less

Cheer!
Flag

Albania's Northern Light

Best Of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Quote:

A Lasting Impression:I'm aware the newer border with Montenegro near Ulcinj is now open but I was happy with the way I arrived in the country. On a swealtering day in mid July, I started the day off in Budva and hitchhiked a few cars to a police checkpoint near Petrovac, I decided to follow the sign to Podgorica and began a long walk up a steep and windy road. Realising I had no water and that I was incredibly thirsty, I longed for a coca-cola or even better a beer! The chance of this happening let alone a car stopping seemed unlikely though, eventually I sighted a small empty farmhouse on the hill and refuelled from a water pipe! Perfect, then I decided to stop walking and hide under the ...Read More

Cheer!
Flag

A Great Example of Ottoman Rule in the Balkans

Best Of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Quote:

Gjirokaster undoubtedly one of my favourite towns in the world is a little town nestled in the mountains in Albania, slightly south from the town of Tepelene where water is unbelievably tasty (this town was visited by Lord Byron who was so impressed he wrote a poem called Mother Albania about the area)Which ever way you get to the city, you are sure to pass through beautiful scenery, green valleys, streams, waterfalls and small mountains await. Gjirokaster is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as "a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman town, built by farmers of large estate." on top of the mountain lies a large and powerful castle that guards the city below.The city dates ba...Read More

Gjirokaster undoubtedly one of my favourite towns in the world is a little town nestled in the mountains in Albania, slightly south from the town of Tepelene where water is unbelievably tasty (this town was visited by Lord Byron who was so impressed he wrote a poem called Mother Albania about the area)

Which ever way you get to the city, you are sure to pass through beautiful scenery, green valleys, streams, waterfalls and small mountains await. Gjirokaster is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as "a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman town, built by farmers of large estate." on top of the mountain lies a large and powerful castle that guards the city below.

The city dates back to a settlement as early as the 1st century but it wasn't until around the 12th century when it progressed in to a larger place under the Byzantine Empire. It remained under Byzantine rule and later Ottoman rule until the 19th century at which point it became a stronghold of resistance against the Turks.

In the early 20th century, it came under Greek rule, as the area has had quite a lot of Greek inhabitants for some time and still does. The area fought for it's independence 3 times and the area was finally granted to Albania in the 1913, Treaty of London. The determined Greeks took it back though at the start of WW1 and kept it until the end, when it was given back to Albania. The city lived in relative peace for the next 20 or so years until it was annexed by Italy in 1939 at the start of WW2. Germany took over control in 1943 but it was returned to Albanian rule one year later.

During communism the city flourished as not only industry was boosted but the town was known as a "museum town" due to Enver Hoxha (Leader of Albania between November 1944 - April 1985) being born there.

The end of communism saw Albania in a mess and in particular in 1997 when the country's economy collapsed following the governments pyramid scheme going wrong, Gjirokaster became deeply involved in anti-government rebellions which were violent and forced the presidents resignation.

The modern part at the foot of the mountain is not interesting at all but simply houses people, the old town though is magnificent, a bit run down but that's the way I like it. The citadel, bazaa and all the buildings perched to the side of the mountain are incredibly intriguing. I found the locals unbelievably helpful and keen to talk (mostly about Manchester United), the owner of the supermarket had letters between himself and numerous Manchester United players (most probably their secretaries) since the early 90s.

I didn't see much in the way of restaurants but there were numerous hotels, I stayed in a rather grandiose place that I'd decided to have a nosy in and was shocked that the price was a mere 6 euros a night. The room was top quality, the hotel had stunning rugs, chandaliers and was very nicely decorated. Bargain.

There is a bus route between Gjirokaster and the western-styled resort Saranda, during my visit their were warnings that the bus was regularly held up and robbed but I certainly didn't have any problems and it was a magnificent journey, the same applies to hitchhiking back. Minibuses run between Tepelene which in turn may be linked to other cities like Tirana or Fier. You can wave down just about any car in Albania and they will take you for a small fee, it's common practice and the ubiqutious Mercedes can normally take more people than you think! There is a border to the south of Gjirokaster with Greece but I've never crossed it, so can't comment but the road going there is one of the better roads in the country. The most scenic road for me would be the road heading to Korce, take a turn to Tepelene and follow the road along the River Vlosa before heading back up to Erseke. An amazingly scenic route, hard to do by public transport though. Fine for those with their own car or willing to a hitch a ride with others.

I didnt meet any other tourists in Gjirokaster when I was there but Albania is slightly more visited these days and it's only a matter of time surely before this hidden gem is unearthed to more. Read Less

Cheer!
Flag

Hitchhiking in Albania

Best Of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Quote:

These days I'm not doing a great deal of travelling but when I was on a larger trip in the past, I tried to hitchhike everywhere for several reasons. It saved money, I liked it, I met locals and very often it was quicker than public transport.Albania was going to become an interesting experience from as early as Podgorica in Montenegro, when me and my Slovenian travel partner at the time were kicked out of a Mercedes full of chickens and old ladies for not being prepared to pay a ridiculous fee to go over the border. There is a lot of minibuses on the road who will stop when they see a white (or possibly any) backpacker on the road. Hitchhiking is usually done by waving down ca...Read More

These days I'm not doing a great deal of travelling but when I was on a larger trip in the past, I tried to hitchhike everywhere for several reasons. It saved money, I liked it, I met locals and very often it was quicker than public transport.

Albania was going to become an interesting experience from as early as Podgorica in Montenegro, when me and my Slovenian travel partner at the time were kicked out of a Mercedes full of chickens and old ladies for not being prepared to pay a ridiculous fee to go over the border.

There is a lot of minibuses on the road who will stop when they see a white (or possibly any) backpacker on the road. Hitchhiking is usually done by waving down cars in an anarchic fashion as if you are in a film in New York and are desperate to catch a cab, although the thumb method is likely to get some kind of attention too. Nearly every car stops, so it doesn't take long really. Sometimes a payment is required but the Albanians seemed fair and no one ever over charged.

A lot of people drive short distances though, so it can often involve several rides - especially in the more isolated areas. Quite often we had locals helping us, somehow they seemed to think they'd have a better chance of finding us the right rides and I suppose with local road knowledge and the fact that everyone in Albania seems to know each other - they were probably right.

One thing noticeable is that from the afternoon onwards, a great deal of Albanians are drunk at the wheel having stopped for several rakis for lunch. Having grown up in Portugal, being driven in a drunk driver's car doesn't overly bother me and seeing as everyone seems relatively wasted including the minibus drivers, I suppose it doesn't have any effect anyway! The amount of cracked windscreens are evidence of this.

I think the most bizarre antic that took place was close to the Macedonian border at night when we were trying to get to Struga before it was too late, we were encouraged to squish into the back of a mercedes with two bags and two people to join the other two people in the back and the two in the front. These chaps were wasted and were all over the place on the road, heading to a local pub - a policeman was up ahead and I asked why the police didn't do anything, they replied that police "only whistle in Albania" and to prove their point, reversed and chucked my stale loaf hanging out of the top of my backpack, right towards the aforementioned officer! They were right as well, he only blew his whistle!

The next ride to the border was a bit calmer fortunately, with a young couple and a baby! Albania is an easy country to hitchhike in but be prepared to pay a reasonable price at times because it's common practice. Read Less

Cheer!
Flag

Butrint

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Albanian Archaelogical Wonderland!"

Quote:

Nestled in the South Western corner of Albania, in what is perhaps Albania's most accessible region, Butrint is found 20km south of the sea side resort town Sarande. Corfu is nearby and day-trips are the common way of getting to Sarande and Butrint, I however was on a journey around Albania and had hitchhiked down there from Sarande. Taxis on that route probably wouldn't be too dear though, particularly if shared.Butrint is the end of the road really, just above the Greek border it is surrounded with wonderful hills and a large lagoon. Cattle and sheep gently graze in the nearby fields and a man waits at the entrance to this magnificent park waiting to collect a membership fee ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 15, 2009

Cheer!
Flag

Saranda

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction | "The Albanian Ibiza?"

Quote:

Well not exactly, it's not that overloaded with tourists and doesn't possess as many clubs blaring out in your face music but the chances are that if you've gone to Albania, it's to avoid tourists a little bit and enjoy a pleasant country without Northern European tourists in their white shorts, shoes, socks and beany hat gorping into their Daily Mail. Saranda does get a handful of curious day-trippers from Corfu and is even a bit of a destination in its own right.Saranda is in a gorgeous location, with a short gulf seperating itself from Corfu, a palm tree lined promenade with a small white beach and jade coloured sea. There's not quite as many high rise buildings as say Praia da Rocha in...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 15, 2009

Cheer!
Flag

Tirana

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Metal Pyramids, Lots of Bananas and Free Cheese"

Quote:

I was busy reviewing Saranda when I realised that I somehow also forgot about Albania's unique capital during a spell of reviewing Albanian places some month's ago. Sightwise there's little to see in Tirana but it's worth hanging around a bit to absorb the atmosphere. Having come in to Tirana at dusk in the summer, I was wondering what was going on - people were lighting trash by the road side, there was a mess everywhere, cars were non stop honking and then all of a sudden the minibus dropped everyone off at what seemed to be a roundabout. Trying to find a hotel (nothing planned before and no hostels then - think one has opened these days) could have proved difficult as I was ...Read More

I was busy reviewing Saranda when I realised that I somehow also forgot about Albania's unique capital during a spell of reviewing Albanian places some month's ago.

Sightwise there's little to see in Tirana but it's worth hanging around a bit to absorb the atmosphere. Having come in to Tirana at dusk in the summer, I was wondering what was going on - people were lighting trash by the road side, there was a mess everywhere, cars were non stop honking and then all of a sudden the minibus dropped everyone off at what seemed to be a roundabout.

Trying to find a hotel (nothing planned before and no hostels then - think one has opened these days) could have proved difficult as I was struggling to work out how to pronounce the Albanian for centre. An old Albanian guy plucked a playing kid from the cafe around the corner who began speaking to me in the most fluent of London accents, turns out the kid had spent a few years as a refugee from Kosovo there and had been sent back relatively recently. This little kid (think he said he was 8) was legendary and introduced us to the best value illegal money dealer in town and found us a budget hotel in a city notoriously expensive for its budget accomodation. He then left as it was getting late and said little kids shouldn't be in the streets after 10 as there is a tendency for them to get held at gunpoint and go missing etc but he was keen to hang out with us the next day with his mother! Somehow we didn't meet the guy again as we were available at different times.

Tirana is a weird place, devoid of any real sights unless you include an enormous main square, a metal pyramid and a central market, the cities constant beeping and ginormous piles of bananas by the roadside will mark you freover though. One second, you'll have a palm tree lined boulevard with wealthy people in their latest designer gear, shades and cars such as Ferraris and Porsches and the next a road will have a hole so big it can fit a car in (literally)

People always seemed incredibly friendly, if I wanted to try a small piece of cheese, the woman in the shop would end up giving me an enormous block for free and in some cases it seemed almost impossible to pay for things. It;s very much a city of the cars though, it was pretty grey when I visited but I've heard that buildings have since been painted reggae colours in a government scheme. There's not a great deal of nightlife unless you want to drink raki with some very dodgy characters and I have to say I generally opted for the early night option whilst there, a rarity for me! Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on April 15, 2009

Cheer!
Flag

IgoUgo

Albania Journals

Upload Photos