Istanbul - A Tale of Two Cities

The Blue Mosque was built in the seventeenth century on the orders of Sultan Ahmet I with the intention that it should rival the Hagia Sophia which stands opposite it. The image of these two fantastic buildings square up to each other is one of the most breath-taking sights in Istanbul. Both buildings are extraordinary but it's the Blue Mosque that wins me over with its six stately minarets and awesome courtyard.

The Blue Mosque is easily identifiable from all over the city - even in a city that is teeming with mosques. There is a story that claims that the Sultan had demanded that the mosque have minarets made from gold - in Turkish "altin" - but the architect misheard him and built six - in Turkish "alti". While six minarets was something rather special in what we now call Turkey, they caused a stir in the Islamic world in general because the only other mosque to boast six minarets was the one in Mecca, held to be the holiest in the Muslim world; the solution was to add a seventh minaret to the mosque in Mecca. The other feature that makes the Blue Mosque quite distinct from the outside is the wonderful way the smaller domes tumble down from the main one; it always makes me think of one of those champagne glass arrangements where the bubbly is poured into the topmost glass and cascades down into those below it.
The one thing that the Blue Mosque is not, from the outside, is blue. The proper name is the Sultanahmet Camii (or Sultanahmet mosque); the epithet "blue mosque" was given because of the interior of the mosque which I shall describe later.

Following a series of disastrous wars for the Ottomans, Sultan Ahmed I decided to build a large mosque in Istanbul which he believed would be an offering to placate Allah. It had to be pretty special because there had't been an imperial mosque constructed for over four decades. In the past the sultans had financed such projects with wealth won in wars but Ahmed I did not have these riches at his disposal and, instead, he decided to obtain the funds through the treasury, a decision that enraged the legal scholars, the Ulema. Work commenced in 1609 and took seven years. The royal architect Sedefhar Mehmet AÄŸa, who had studied under the great architect Sinan, was placed in charge of the project.

The mosque is situated on the former site of the palace of the Byzantine emperors, facing the Hagia Sophia and the hippodrome. Parts of one side of the mosque were on the foundations of the old palace. Several existing palaces had to be bought so that they could be demolished to enable the construction of the Blue Mosque on this site.

For today's visitor, the mosque is easy to get to, in the heart of the Sultanahmet part of the city, close to tram and bus stops. The jump on, jump off sightseeing bus stops almost at the entrance.

The Blue Mosque is a working mosque and this status dictates certain etiquette from visitors. Visitors may only enter through the north door; at peak times there can be a queue but as there are often lots of tour groups milling around the entrance and people fussing about whether to take their shoes off, you may not have to wait as long as you might expect. We visited in mid-August and found we only had to wait a few minutes. There are signs instructing you to remove your footwear and asking women to cover their heads; you can borrow a scarf if you need to. Shorts are forbidden for men and women and women shouldn't wear short skirts/dresses. Bare shoulders should be covered up; if you wear a bigger scarf this will usually cover your shoulders too. If you have turned up in shorts (even if they aren't especially short but more like three quarter length) you may be asked to wear a wrap over them. If it's a really hot day, zip off trousers that can also be worn as shorts are a wise move. At some mosques you leave your shoes at the door and collect them on the way out but at the Blue Mosque you don't leave by the same way so you carry your shoes with you; if you need one, you can get a plastic bag, we just carried ours in a backpack. The mosque is open between 9am-6pm daily, except during daily prayer times (lasting about half an hour, five times daily) and midday on Fridays.

All the written descriptions of the mosque I have read couldn't prepare me for the splendour on entering the Sultanahmet mosque. The high ceiling is covered with about 20,000 blue tiles; they are a typical 16th century Iznik design, depicting flowers, trees and abstract patterns - this is particularly notable because the decor of mosques is not normally allowed to represent living things. On the lower levels the tiles are the most commonly used tulip design - there are said to be fifty different kinds of tulip design tiles in the mosque – and on the upper levels the designs feature a variety of flowers and cypress trees, the designs becoming more flamboyant and intricate at you climb. It's also the case that the first tiles that were used were the best quality and, as the money ran out and the price of tiles escalated, tiles of inferior quality had to be used.

Some people are quite sniffy about the Blue Mosque saying that the tiles are very faded and that parts of it have been slathered in blue paint to try to give the illusion that the interior looks better than it really is. I'd agree to some extent. It's really only the tiles at the very top that are brilliantly blue and these aren't easy to appreciate. You also need good light to really do the interior justice. Some huge chandeliers have been installed to fill the place with artificial light but sunlight allows you to allow see the intricate designs of the stained glass windows. They aren't the most magnificent windows you've ever seen but they do contribute to the overall effect.

It's actually the architectural effect rather than the way the mosque is decorated that appeals to me. I love the slightly squashed effect of the domes and the sheer size of the central dome with its baby dome circling it is mind-boggling.

On the upper levels the walls are decorated with verses from the Qu'ran, some of these are thought to have been painted by Seyyid Kasim Gubari who was the man responsible for such work in many of Turkey's grandest mosques; he was regarded as the foremost calligrapher of the period. There are some great views from the upper galleries over the smaller domes of the mosque.

My favourite part of the mosque is the royal kiosk which you can only see from a distance because it and the mihrab (the prayer niche that all mosques have) are roped off to allow worshippers the space to pray. The kiosk is basically a little loggia with two private rooms and it gives access to the royal loge which is situated in the uppermost gallery. In 1826 the Grand Vizier ensconced himself in the royal loge during the suppression of the rebellious Janissary Corps.Ten marble columns support the loge which has its own mihrab carved from jade.

This is one of the most important buildings in Istanbul and only by seeing it for yourself can you truly appreciate its magnificence. The interior may not be as dazzling as some claim but there is still much to admire and enjoy.

A guided tour - or at least a very good guidebook - is essential to help you get the most out of your visit. There are plenty of places around the city to book a guided tour and your hotel may also be able to assist. Without some degree of information all you can really do is stand there and marvel at how grand it is, some background information makes it more worthwhile. Admission is free but you will have to pay for the services of a guide.

If you visit in the summer then you should try to arrive quite early before the queues build up; however they do seem to be well managed and waiting times are not excessive.

Although this is a working mosque and you'll see plenty of people coming to pray I do think that the numbers of people allowed in at any one time is too high and I felt that this had an impact on my impression of the building. While the interior could be missed, I would definitely recommend you make an effort to at least see the exterior, especially from inside the courtyard as this give you one of the best views of the cascading domes.

Dubb is an Indian restaurant in the Sultanahmet district of Istanbul. Having spent four weeks in total in Turkey we decided to do something different on the final night of our trip and when we passed Dubb we knew we had to try it. It’s mid way between the Blue Mosque and Aghia Sophia and almost next to the Yerebatan Cistern. Booking isn’t essential but it may be advisable if you want to be sure of a table on the terrace which is the best place to dine on a hot summer’s evening. There were no tables left on the terrace when we arrived and we were going to sit in one of the other dining rooms when I spotted a small table on a floor where there were no other diners and asked if we might have that one. The table was in a corner and beside a window that gave good views over Sultanahmet Park. The tables are spread over five floors in this narrow building. There is a tiny bar/waiting area on the ground floor as you go in. The staff are kept fit by having to climb those stairs time after time to order and collect drinks.

The decor is lovely; the walls are a warm golden yellow and some are decorated with colourful Indian style motifs or hung with large paintings of naive Indian scenes. Although the same colour scheme runs through the restaurant each floor has slightly different furniture and soft furnishings. One floor is tiled, another has rugs. One floor has rattan furniture, another has wooden chairs. Some huge plants fill the corners and the overall effect is quite welcoming and relaxing.

Of course, the food is what’s most important and it doesn’t disappoint. We started with a selection of pakora – fish and vegetable which was served with a minty dip. It was nicely spiced and had a good crunch. For my main course I chose a chicken jalfrezi which was spicy and tasty and was presented as a very generous portion. My partner chose the tandoori sea bream, a magnificent fish beautifully spiced and served with salad and a coriander relish.

As the mains had been so large we didn’t have desserts but there was a selection of Indian and Turkish desserts as well as good old ice cream. I did however manage to find space for a second mango lassi and these were perhaps the best lassis I have ever had – just salty enough but very fruity too.

The price was approximately £25 for two including drinks which was an absolute steal, especially for the location.

When we stayed at the Paris Hostel and Hotel in Istanbul it was at the end of a three month circular trip and we wanted to try some different accommodation to the place we’d stayed at some fourteen weeks earlier. A week before we were due to arrive back in Istanbul we did an online search for something suitable and found the Paris H&H.

I have no idea why it’s called hostel AND hotel. Maybe they think a dormitory means a hostel and private rooms mean a hotel? Anyway, this is plain and simple accommodation with very few, if any, frills. It is hostel standard, or one or two star standard in hotel-speak. Had we known then just how much money we had left at the end of the trip, we’d have spent more, isn’t hindsight great?

The hostel is in a very useful location in the Sultanahmet district approximately halfway between the Grand Bazaar and the Aghia Sophia. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants and even a supermarket nearby. The nearest tram stop is Cemberlitas about two minutes walk away.

We booked online directly with the hostel through their website and there were no problems with our booking. When we arrived they had our booking details ready. The hostel occupies a corner site and it wasn’t immediately evident where the main entrance was but walking right to the end of the building revealed its whereabouts. Our room was up three flights of steps; it was August and after a day pounding the pavements of Istanbul I did not look forward to climbing those stairs in the late afternoon at siesta time. There was one more floor above ours so there weren’t many people having to pass our room. However, those who had rooms on our floor were not very considerate.

The room was tiny and contained just enough room to walk round a double bed. There was a narrow wardrobe in the corner and we had to stack our rucksacks in there as there was no other space for them.

The room looked out onto the roof tops of neighbouring buildings. We had the window open all the time in an attempt to get some air into the room – there is no air conditioning and there were no electric fans. For me this was the worst thing about this accommodation. Had I been more comfortable I wouldn’t have minded the cramped room so much. The en suite bathroom was tiny but adequate even if it did feel like a sauna by mid afternoon. Within minutes of taking a shower you’d want another one again. There were no issues with cleanliness and everything was in good repair.

Breakfast was included in the price and was served downstairs in a light and airy dining room. Everything was laid out buffet style and a staff member came to your table with tea and coffee. There were cheeses, tomatoes and cucumber, olives and boiled eggs as well as bread, simits (rings of bread topped with sesame seeds) and delicious honey and slices of pineapple which were beautifully juicy. You could have as much as you wanted so it was a good start to the day.

The hostel has a small and dark "bar" which doesn’t stay open late and which we didn’t use. We preferred to bring home a couple of bottles of Efes and drink them on the terrace which has brilliant views over the Sea of Marmara. You can dry laundry on the clothes lines on the terrace if you need to.

The wood panelled lounge is comfortable enough though it’s unlikely you’d spend much time in there. It was often used at breakfast time as people who smoked sat there and watched television news with a coffee as smoking is not permitted in the dining room itself.

Opposite reception is a small room in which Ataturk looks down on you from the wall as you use the Internet. Access is free for up to fifteen minutes per day but the connection was erratic.

This is quite a homely hostel in some respects; there are lots of traditional carpets and rugs and woven throws over the chairs and hanging from the walls. It’s a little down at heal but in a nice way, I don’t mean that it is falling to bits!

The staff were friendly and efficient and willing to help. They booked places on the minibus to the airport for us and insisted on carrying my rucksack when the minibus arrived. There are lots of leaflets on where to go and what to do in the foyer and the hostel can arrange discounts on some activities.

I would certainly stay here again though definitely not in the height of summer. The rooms were basic but adequate and I was happy with the level of cleanliness. The location is excellent being so close to many of the major sights.

A double room in the high season currently costs 18 € per person per night. However the prices differ depending on the season and there are dormitory beds as well as single, triple and quad rooms so do check the prices on their website.

Just a short ferry ride from Istanbul, the Princes Islands are a brilliant place to kick back and escape the relentless noise and bustle of the city. Other than emergency vehicles, motorised vehicles are not allowed on the islands which makes them very peaceful and makes walking more enjoyable. I love to walk but Istanbul can be hard work for walkers and so visiting the Princes Islands gives you an opportunity to stroll without needing eyes in the back of your head. Huddled together in the Sea of Marmara, each island has a character of its own and it's easy to forget the proximity of one of the world's largest cities.

The Islands can be visited all year round but ferry and hydrofoil services are less frequent in winter. One of the reasons they are so popular is that several of them have beaches and this is the nearest place to the city for bathing. However, from what I could see the beaches weren't that great (small patches of pebbles and too close to the ferry terminals) and certainly wouldn't persuade me to take the ferry over. No, what is so appealing about the Princess Islands is the legacy of the different cultures that moved out to the islands in the late Ottoman period. The people who have lived on the islands, or owned holiday homes there have always been wealthy Istanbullus and that means a heritage created in particular by the Jewish, Greek and Armenian communities.

The islands got their name because princes and princesses who had outlived their roles were exiled to the islands during Byzantine times. In the middle of the eighteenth century a ferry service to the islands was established and the islands became a popular place for the wealthy merchant classes to have extravagant villas built.

Of the nine islands, five are populated. Four of the five populated ones can be visited by ferry; the fifth, Sedef, is privately owned.

GETTING TO THE ISLANDS

A brilliant part of a trip to the Princes Islands is the ferry ride. On the outward journey we took the car ferry from the "Adalar Iskelesi" dock at Sirkeci. You need to get there at least thirty minutes before the scheduled departure time as the queues are long and you need to buy a ticket first. Once you have your ticket you join the scrum at the gate; take care once the gates open as people tend to sprint onto the ferry in order to get a good seat. You have been warned! When the ferry sets sail you will get excellent views of the Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and of the Aya Sofya as the ferry passes Seraglio Point. It is worth the trip just for this!

It takes 30 minutes to reach the first island and then about fifteen minutes between islands after that. Then the ferry goes back to the city and terminates at Eminonu. You can also make the journey by catamaran to and from Eminonu. We did this on the way back. It's a ten minute bus ride from Taksim Square or Sultanahmet.

THE ISLANDS

We stopped for the day at Burgazada which is the second stop of the ferry but I will write a little on each of the others first.

Kinaliada - this island is most popular with Istanbul's Armenian community and has quite a distinct look with its white houses that cling to the hill. As the ferry pulled in there were quite a few people bathing on the pebbly beach but we had read up a little and couldn't find enough that we wanted to see on this island and didn't fancy swimming here as the ferry terminal was right beside the beach. There is Hristos Monastery which was built by the Byzantine Emperor Romanus IV but our guidebook told us it was only open on Fridays. Beside the ferry terminal is the most modern mosque I have ever seen, it looks like a single "sail" from Sydney Opera House.

Heybeliada - the island looks very attractive and the first thing you see as you approach is the Greek Orthodox school for priests because it sits on the top of a hill. It's housed in the former Haghia Triada Monastery and peeks out above the poplar trees. Another striking building you can admire without leaving the ferry is the naval academy, a huge white building that looks like a giant pavilion.

Buyukada is the largest of the islands and the final ferry stop. This island is more obvious as a tourist destination and I'm glad we didn't visit it. It looked too busy and too "manufactured" for my taste with the most over the top ferry terminal building adorned with more cupolas and balconies than is decent! Our guidebook said that the chief attraction of this island was the Greek St George's Monastery, a fifty minute uphill walk from the port. It also said there wasn't much to see when you got there.

Lucky then that we chose to visit Burgazada, the second stop on the ferry route. This is the island with predominantly Greek heritage. Our guide book didn't have many positive things to say about it but we thought it rather attractive with streets of wonderful wooden Ottoman houses and an interesting and picturesque museum dedicated to Sait Faik Abasiyanik, famous Turkish story writer from the beginning of 20th century and housed in the writer's former home.

I have written separately on this island so please read my other review for a better idea of that Burgazada is like

The Princes Islands are incredibly picturesque and offer an alternative side of Istanbul that many tourists don't get to see. The cultural history of Istanbul is diverse and rich but can be easily forgotten in the city and is easier to appreciate on the islands where there seems more acceptance and tolerance of the tapestry of Istanbul history.

If you are in Istanbul for more than a few days I would certainly recommend a visit in order to enjoy a break from the hustle and bustle of the main tourist areas although most literature I read advised staying away on Sundays in summer when the islands are flooded with visitors. The amount there is to see and do varies from island to island so I would suggest doing a little research before choosing which to visit. Of course, you could always hop from island to island either in one day (perhaps two would be the limit for one day) or over several days. However you would certainly need to research accommodation if you chose the latter option as there is not a vast amount on any one island and some of it is pricey. Reservations are advised for the height of summer and it should be noted that many hotels and pensions close entirely in winter.

The Princes Islands are not a secret to Turkish people but are somewhat less well known by tourists from other countries. However, I would say that visitors to any of the islands would not be disappointed; it is amazing to think that these tranquil traffic free havens are within sight of Istanbul and well worth the short sailing to enjoy their beauty.

The Cordial House Hotel. It sounds like the kind of house that one of Jane Austen's characters might lodge at, doesn't it? The kind of place where sugary sweet staff indulge your every whim and the guests stroll arm in arm around the landscaped grounds. It's not like that at all.

However it is a truth universally acknowledged that hotels should meet certain criteria to be considered acceptable so would Mr Darcy find anything to shout about at Istanbul's Cordial House Hotel?

TRUTH NUMBER 1

That a hotel should be comfortable and relaxing….

A difficult one to judge. Our "double room" contained one single and one small double bed; this meant that we did not have to squeeze into the double, the single could be used if we preferred. Both beds were comfortable - a bit squidgy for some, but comfortable all the same. However, we were disappointed that there were no easy chairs in a room that had ample space for more furniture. Not only did that make the room seem rather bare, but its always nice to have somewhere to sit and red or watch television other than lying on the bed.

The room was spacious enough but, since there was not much furniture to fill it, it would have been a good idea to use some of it to create a small vestibule area between the main door and the sleeping area to cut out some of the noise from traffic on the stairs and landing. The Cordial House may be called a hotel and it may have plenty of private rooms, but it is really a hostel given its facilities, price and its numerous dormitory rooms on the upper floors: as a result, the clientele is quite young and more likely to make noise in the early hours.

Although our room was not double glazed, we weren't disturbed by any noise from outside - not even the early morning prayer call - and we were in the midst of at least eight mosques!

Breakfast was served in the room that was used as a bar in the evening. It was a buffet affair offering typical Turkish breakfast fare - sliced cucumber and tomatoes, boiled eggs, olives bread, cheese and preserves (not like those served at afternoon tea by Mrs Bennett of course!). The tables were small round ones and were really too small to sit at comfortably for a meal - fine for a drink but no good for dining.

The bar was open until 11.30pm which I think is quite late enough in this kind of hotel; if you want to drink later there are plenty of places in Istanbul where you can do this, you can even go along to any of the "hard core" backpackers hostels" and drink as a non-resident. It was a utilitarian space designed to be multi-use rather than for atmosphere, no dimmed lights, no relaxing music, just a Turkish game shows blaring from the television set. Furthermore it was full of German backpacking youths - none of whom were of legal drinking age; instead of drinking, these young people made as much noise as possible, shrieking as they wrestled on the sofas.

TRUTH NUMBER 2
A hotel should have pleasant and helpful staff…

The young man who checked us in was friendly and undoubtedly Cordial - when he was there! We had to hunt for someone to check us in, then we twice had to wait for over five minutes for staff to appear when we had questions to ask at reception.

Much more impressive was the fantastic young man who worked in the hotel's "Tourism Office"; we found the office on the first floor of the hotel and popped our heads round the door just after arriving because we wanted to know where we could buy a Lonely Planet book (ours had been left behind in Newcastle). He spoke excellent English (and several other European languages) and was a mine of information on Istanbul in particular and travelling Turkey in general. We had to decline his kind offer to borow a guidebook from his office since we would not be back in Istanbul for three months but he directed us to an excellent bookshop nearby.

The staff in the bar in the evenings and at breakfast spoke little English but were always friendly and were very efficient making sure hot water was filled up and that tables were regularly cleared.

TRUTH NUMBER THREE

A hotel should benefit from a good location...

The Cordial House Hotel is situated in the heart of Sultanahmet on the European side of Istanbul; it is just seven minutes walk fromthe Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque in one direction and the Grand Baaar in the other. It is one minute away from the tram line which cuts through the heart of Sultanahmet and takes you across the Galata Bridge to the Asian side of the city.

There are plenty of eating places in the area - from local kebab joints to more touristy themed restaurants. There are also patisseries and coffee shops. The are opportunites for shopping nearby with a couple of supermarkets as well as pharmacies and other stores.

The only downside is that there are often touts for souvenir and carpet shops working the area. Most are fine if you are firm but polite; remember they have a living to make.

On arrival you may wonder what you have let yourself in for - continually hooting drivers fill the narrow streets, the call of the muezzin just as you settle down for a nap and the persisant salesmen - but this is what Istanbul is all about; just enjoy it.

TRUTH NUMBER FOUR

That hotels should have certain housekeeping standards....

Our hero Mr Darcy would have no need to speak to the staff at the Cordial House; while some areas could do with updating, there are no problems with cleanliness. The bedroom was fine and the bathroom was sparkling; these standards were applied throughout the hotel.

Our only gripe was that of the three bulbs in the main light fitting in our room, only one was working making the room quite dark in the early evening. Everything else was in good working order and well-maintained.

TRUTH NUMBER FIVE

A good hotel should have appropriate facilities....

Sadly Mr Darcy would not be occupying his days with shooting, fishing or walking in the grounds; the Cordial House Hotel is basic to say the least athough it is able top help with many requests which guests may have. It will send laundry out for a charge, it can organise trips and guided tours, it will book tickets for evening entertainments such as the Dervish shows and so on.

However, aside from its bar, the only facilites it has to offer is free internet, available to guests during the opening hours of the bar. There are two computers available and wireless internet is also available.

What the hotel lacks in facilities it makes up for with the enthusiasm of its staff; if there's someone around you can learn to play backgammon - an essential skill for anyone spending much time in Turkey. The staff will even teach you to make an authentic Turkish coffee! Mr Darcy would be charmed!

TRUTH NUMBER SIX

A hotel should be good value for money....

We probably paid a little too much for our accommodation and didn't shop around and much as we could have. However, at 40 Euro a night (when booked on line) you could hardly feel cheated. This included all taxes and since we had spent more than 80 Euro (we stayed two nights) we qualified for a free pick up from the airport - this was terrific as we got to see much more than we would have done if coming in by bus and underground.

The hotel offers a variety of rooms so you can spend just 26 Euro for a double with shared bathroom, cutting costs considerably.

We were able to really load up at breakfast which set us up for a full days sightseeing. The breakfast was about the best we had in a Turkish hotel, at least for quantity if not variety!

The rooms were sizeable which made them more pleasant. However I would not relish the idea of staying there in the height of summer since there is no air-conditioning, only fans.

So would Mr Darcy take his Lizzy there?
Well it's no Netherfield Park but it is a perfectly acceptable basic hostel-type accommodation, close to the attractions most people want to see in Istanbul. It may cost a bit more than other hostels nearby but it has just a little more comfort, space and style.

www.cordialhouse.com

Along with the Aghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, no trip to Istanbul is regarded as being complete unless it includes a visit to the Grand Bazaar. It's fame is almost legendary but I have always found the response of tourists to be mixed; put simply you either love it or hate it.

Always one to buck the trend, my reaction having visited this summer was "It was OK". This is why…

Having been to Tunisia and Morocco I knew roughly what to expect of the Grand Bazaar. The hustle and bustle, rows of units selling the same stuff, confident and friendly traders, haggling for the best prices - yes, I now consider myself a veteran. I feel confident enough to haggle and am happy to walk away if the price is not right. I might sometimes come away feeling that I could have done better but I am willing to have a go.

The Grand Bazaar is basically an old covered market in the heart of Istanbul, a few minutes walk away from Sultanahmet. It has several entrances and consists of a maze of alleyways, each one specializing mostly in one kind of wares - so you'll get a row selling gold, another selling leather good and another selling glassware. Of course, just to confuse you, there are shops here and there which don't follow the pattern so don't be surprised if you find yourself walking in circles trying to go back to a particular shop.

Unlike the Bazaars in the medinas in places like Tanger or Tunis, Istanbul's Grand Bazaar feels almost "purpose built". The alleys are quite wide, the walls are freshly white-washed and the lighting is excellent - it really makes the gold sparkle in the windows of the jewellery souks. The paving is immaculate making it ideal for wheelchair users or people with pushchairs (although quieter times might be easier for these groups). Contrast this with the dark and grubby alleys of Tunis which I personally found much more atmospheric.

Entering the bazaar through one of the narrow arches, I thought we would be immediately set upon by traders but it really wasn't the case. In fact, at one souk, we stood for age trying to find someone to haggle with! At three o'clock on an afternoon in August I was amazed how quiet the place was. I would have thought that a lack of potential shoppers would make the traders even more intent to help us spend our money but it seemed to only make them less interested.

If you have never been to a bazaar like this, here's what you need to know. All bazaar traders are extremely perceptive and can tell almost immediately which country you are from without you saying a word (one or two guess Scandinavian when they see me, I used to let them think they were right, but it turns out almost as many can speak Swedish as English so you'll still get pestered). They use this to get you to stop and look; often they'll use some colloquial expression that surprises you so much your feet stick to the ground and you can't help breaking into a smile.

Don't say you are merely looking because "That's OK, looking is free, come into my shop and look some more". If you claim to have no money, that's also OK because "everything is practically free". You may think you have an answer, but you're wrong. The Turkish stall holder has all the answers.

Don't kid yourself into thinking you're going to get any bargains. This is the biggest market in one of the world's major cities; rents are high, nothing is free.

The trader will suggest a price, you should start at a tenth of that and work up. Aim to pay about one third of the original asking price. Never - I said NEVER - offer a price you aren't willing to pay; this is very bad form. If you can't agree a price, walk away. Be polite, the dealer might come after you and change his mind; don't burn your bridges.

Unless you are buying in the antique section, nothing is rare. You will find the same item elsewhere, probably for less. Don't be too hasty, buying at the first stall, look around first before you start spending. Often you'll look at a display item but when you buy, your item will be given to you boxed up. Ask to look at the item first to make sure it is the right item and that it is not broken.

The Grand Bazaar is the Turkish equivalent of the Metrocentre with cafes and tea houses, a mosque and even a little police station! As you would expect, you will pay a premium for drinking tea in the Bazaar as you do with the goods on sale. I was disappointed to find that I could have bought the set of tea glasses for 4 Euro less at the Spice Bazaar instead (I found many prices lower at the Spice Bazaar in fact) but had to remind myself that I had already got a good deal by haggling (think about what you'd pay in the UK at a shop like The Pier for a set of tea glasses).

There is little you can buy at the grand Bazaar that you can't buy anywhere else in Istanbul; tea glasses, t-shirts, any kind of item bearing the "evil eye" symbol, fruit tea, Turkish Delight, embroidered cushions, leather pouffes, coloured glass lanterns. Much of item low quality, much of it pretty tacky. Leather goods seem about the best in terms of quality and you can get some good prices on bags and coats - not sure who wants to but a leather jacket in the midle of August though....

In the end I came away with a set of tea glasses and teeny spoons, two boxes of Turkish Delight, three boxes of Turkish fruit tea, a t-shirt, a fridge magnet and some bracelets for just over £20.00 which I found reasonable for an expensive capital city.

Overall I found the Grand Bazaar somewhat sanitized without even the pantomime I'd anticipated to liven things up. Many stall holders won't even haggle and have set prices. Unfortunately it's not always obvious which ones these are and even managed to offend one trader who took back the goods we were holding up! For a more exotic experience I suggest you try the Spice Market or Egyptian Bazaar as it's also known - now that's a real sensory experience and cheaper to boot! Full marks for the range of goods but points deducted for lack of atmosphere.