Seven Wonders of Flagstaff

At an elevation of almost 7,000 feet, Flagstaff is among the highest cities in the U.S.

Located along former wagon road to California, Flagstaff (called "Flag" by the locals) is surrounded by famous ponderosa forests and sits at the foot of Arizona's highest mountain, 12,634-foot /3,851m Humphrey's Peak.

An outdoor lovers’ paradise, Flagstaff offers activities from skiing down the San Francisco Peaks to gazing at the stars at the Lowell Observatory. This town used to promote itself as "The City of Seven Wonders" — a reference to the Grand Canyon and other nearby Northern Arizona attractions. Problem is that not one of the wonders was actually in Flagstaff. Nowadays, the official slogan is less grandiose: "They don't make towns like this anymore." Nevertheless, seven national parks and monuments are located with a 100-mile radius of Flagstaff, including Grand Canyon, Sunset Crater, Wupatki, Walnut Canyon, Petrified Forest, Painted Desert, and Montezuma Castle. Some of the West’s most beautiful country surrounds Flagstaff, from the alpine forests of San Francisco Peaks to the rugged deserts of Colorado Plateau.

Today’s Flagstaff is an amazing place, combining a modern sense of discovery (Lowell Observatory, Northern Arizona University) with a strong Western legacy echoing the days of railroad builders , lumbermen, and pioneer ranchers (Route 66 days, Riordan Mansion, Museum of Northern Arizona, and Pioneer Historical Museum). Visitors from all over the world are attracted to city’s clean mountain air, year-round recreation (Arizona Snowbowl, the Arboretum), scenic forest paths, lively entertainment scene, and 1890s charm.

Do not miss Heritage Square, a brick plaza in downtown with architectural details that represent local history and geology, such as a wooden flagpole with a base made of Grand Canyon rocks. Free movies are projected at the square on Friday nights during the summer. The shops, galleries and restaurants around it provide a very pleasant environment for strolling, shopping or just sitting with a cup of coffee. First Friday of each month tourists and residents alike enjoy "Art Walk" as the galleries stay open late for visitors.

City has a distinct four-season climate. The Monsoon season of July and August bring fantastic lightning and thunderstorms almost daily along with plenty of rain (we caught some during the Labor Day weekend). You'll experience the beautiful blooming of spring and the gorgeous changing of the leaves in the fall.

This small city is the home of the U.S. Naval Observatory's Flagstaff Station, Northern Arizona University's Atmospheric Research Observatory, the National Undergraduate Research Observatory, and Arizona State University's Braeside Observatory. It is also a dark-sky refuge for hundreds of amateur astronomers; the world's first designated International Dark Sky City. In October and November they held the Celebration of the Night, a five-week series of dark skies events. The city's battle with light pollution is on going in order to preserve prime conditions for the work being conducted at Lowell Observatory.
Smithsonian CultureFest came to town in 2006 to help celebrate the beauty and science of the night sky as one of the " true cultural treasures of Arizona".

One of the frequently told stories about the naming of Flagstaff refers to a large pine, stripped of its branches, that was used to hang a U.S. flag for a Fourth of July celebration more than a century ago. As the story goes, the pine was so tall that people could see it from miles away. Flagstaff became a symbol, a landmark and, ultimately, a name. The inhabitants, sensing that the settlement would last after work crews finish up on the rail line and leave, named the town around 1881. Thomas F. McMillan, who set up his home in 1876 near a spring, is widely recognized as being the town's first permanent settler.

The spring and its small settlement underwent several names beginning with Antelope Spring, then Flagstaff, and then Old Town. By the time the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad (now the Santa Fe) came through in 1882 there were ten buildings in Old Town, but they soon moved closer to the new railroad depot. In no time at all, Old Town was almost deserted and when a post office was established near the new train depot, it assumed the name of Flagstaff. The railroad opened the area to the entire East. By 1886, Flagstaff was the biggest city on the main line between Albuquerque and the Pacific coast. The town developed other industries around rail: timber, sheep, cattle. Three brothers by the names of Michael, Tim, and Denis Riordan were some of the first to profit from the lumber when they formed the Arizona Lumber and Timber Company. Though Denis would soon move on to California, Michael and Tim would remain in the community making essential contributions to its development, including bringing electricity to Flagstaff and building nearby Lake Mary (eventually their home became the Riordan Mansion museum).
By 1891, Flagstaff had grown to 1,500 and Coconino County was established, leading to regional headquarters for other governmental offices such as the U.S. Forest Service. Flagstaff soon became the second-largest county seat in the United States.

Percival Lowell chose Flagstaff and its strong visibility to build his observatory in 1894. Town drew international attention in 1930 when the planet Pluto was discovered at the now-famed Lowell Observatory (a "must see" place in town).

The Arizona Teachers College began in 1899, becoming Northern Arizona University in 1966.
During the 1920s, Route 66 was built and passed through town, transforming Flagstaff into a popular tourist stop (Flagstaff celebrates Route 66 days in the beginning of September).

The San Francisco Peaks are a volcanic mountain range located in north central Arizona. In 1629, one hundred and forty seven years before San Francisco, California received its name, Spanish Friars founded a mission at a Hopi Indian village in honor of St. Francis. 17th century Franciscans gave the name San Francisco to the peaks to honor St. Francis of Assisi, the founder of their order.

Three of the summits ring this dormant volcano's now quiet inner caldera. The highest summit in the range, Humphreys Peak (12,633 feet /3,851 meters), is the highest point in the state of Arizona. The San Francisco Volcanic Field, which covers about 1,800 square miles, is part of northern Arizona’s spectacular landscape. San Francisco Peaks is the only stratovolcano in the volcanic field and was built by eruptions between about 1 and 0.4 million years ago. Stratovolcanoes have moderately steep slopes and normally rise to a central peak and are built up by countless eruptions over hundreds of thousands of years. Since the eruption, much of the San Francisco Peaks has been removed to create the "Inner Basin" (another popular hiking trail runs here). There are two competing theories about the process: the missing material may have been removed quickly and explosively by an eruption, or it may have been removed slowly by a combination of large landslides, water erosion, and glacial scouring.

After visiting the Snowbowl resort area we came down to US 180 (the highway which leads to the Grand Canyon). From here we took a loop around the peaks. This drive took us all the way around Arizona's highest mountain, winding through a land of pine forests and aspen groves, open prairies and rustic homesteads. We enjoyed this trip in September but anytime is a good time to enjoy this drive, although a ranger said the roads are closed through much of the winter. Autumn started to turn the mountain to gold, filling forest roads and trails with visitors come to enjoy the colorful display.

From US 180 we turned right to forest road FR 418. Many parts of the road covered with gravel; drive slowly. We met several groups of visitors traveling on safari jeeps (dust in the air for miles). There are a number of places along this route where you can stop to take a hike, or enjoy a picnic lunch. In two places we saw vacationers set up a primitive camp (Potato Tank and Reese Tank homesteads area). Shortly after Reese Tank a scenic overview offers scenic view of the Sunset Crater volcanic area. The winding rocky road brings you down to US 89 (12 miles to Flagstaff). Allow 2 -3 hours to enjoy the trip.

It is possible to drive around the peaks counter clockwise (e.g. from US89 to US 180). In this case you can add to the itinerary a visit to the Lava River Cave. This mile-long lava tube cave was formed roughly 700,000 years ago by molten rock that erupted from a volcanic vent in nearby Hart Prairie. From US 180 turn left (west) on FR 245 (at milepost 230). Continue 3 miles to FR171 and turn south 1 mile to where FR 171B turns left a short distance to Lava River Cave. The cave entrance is 300 yards east of the end of the road. Look for a large circle of rocks that mark the cave entrance; study the cave map before entering. The entrance is actually a hole in the ground and the floor just inside is covered with large, slippery boulders. This cave has a year round temperature of 34 degrees. You will need to dress warmly, wear sturdy shoes and bring adequate lighting in order to make the most of your visit (conditions throughout the cave are cold and dark). A Coleman lantern is a good idea. Approx 0.5 miles in there is a fork. Take the left fork -- the ceiling of the right fork drops down to about a yard off the floor. Towards the end of the tunnel, there are several areas where the ceiling gets kind of low -- just keep going. Check with Flagstaff Tourist Information Office if the road FR171 is open (may be closed due to rains).

We visited the San Francisco Peaks area several times during our stay in Flagstaff. The San Francisco Peaks (known locally as simply "the Peaks") are the remains of a once-higher group of extinct volcanoes. Three of the summits ring this dormant volcano's now quiet inner caldera (Humphrey's Peak, Agassiz Peak, and Fremont Peak).

An aquifer within the caldera supplies much of Flagstaff's water while the mountain itself is located within the Coconino National Forest and is the site of famous outdoor recreation area called Arizona Snowbowl. The peaks have considerable religious significance to thirteen local American Indian tribes (including the Havasupai, Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni). It is associated with the color yellow, and is said to contain abalone inside, to be secured to the ground with a sunbeam, and to be covered with yellow clouds and evening twilight. It is gendered female.

First of all we decided to climb the Humphrey's Peak. Arizona Snowbowl is an easy drive about 14 miles north of Flagstaff on paved roads (travel time is around 30 minutes). Drive 7 miles northwest of Flagstaff on US 180 to the Snowbowl Road (FR 516), then turn north (right) and drive 7 more miles to the Snowbowl Lodge and the Sky Ride. Arizona Snowbowl is known as the resort where you can ride the lift and see the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. It is open daily in summertime (Saturday, May 26 through the Labor Day weekend) with the very popular Scenic Skyride from 10 AM to 4 PM. Admission adult $10, children ages 8-12 $6; seniors ages 65-69 $8, 70+ free. If you are here during June – August than keep in mind summertime "Two for Tuesday" offer – buy one Skyride ticket and receive one for free. And everyone Skyrides for Free on their birthday!

In the beginning of September Scenic Skyride changed from daily operations to Fridays, Saturdays & Sundays but hours remain the same through mid-October: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. We came here on Sunday but the weather changed quickly and visitors were not allowed to ride. Next Friday attempt was successful and the triple chair took us to the upper slopes of the Agassiz Peak at 11,500 feet, which is almost one mile above Flagstaff and 10,000 feet above Phoenix. Agassiz Peak, the second highest mountain in Arizona at 12,356 feet (3,766 m) was named for Louis Agassiz (1807–1873), Swiss-American zoologist, glaciologist, and geologist. The 20 min. ride raised us from the fragrant ponderosa pine forest to the mountain desert. In September the temperatures in Flagstaff are cooling down and the morning temperatures in the low 60s, on the mountain slopes it was in the mid 40s.

Unfortunately we did not have a chance to climb to the top of the Agassiz Peak (path was closed 7 years ago to protect fragile environment; you will be fined $500 if you try). During our visit a ranger was at the top of the Skyride providing interpretive talks about the flora, fauna, history, and geology of this wonderful area. We enjoyed her story and views of the vast San Francisco Peaks volcanic field and beyond including the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

If you are energetic and adventurous then from the parking lot at the foot of Skyride you can climb the Humphrey's Peak. The peak was named in about 1870 for General Andrew A. Humphreys, a U.S. Army officer who was a Union general during the American Civil War, and who later became Chief of Engineers of the United States Army Corps of Engineers. The rangers say you can hike the 4.5 miles from the Arizona Snow Bowl to the summit in 3 hours (although a more realistic time is 4 to 5 hours). However, like all hikes above timberline the usual cautions apply. It can snow any month of the year, you can have altitude sickness and you are on an exposed ridge for about 2 hours each way and so must watch out for thunderstorms. The peak makes for nice views (you can see nearly 100 miles). However, this abrupt rise means there's nothing to block the winds. The summit log is full of tales of walking "tarantula style" across the ridge in 60+ mph winds. The winds are particularly bad in the Fall. A short interpretative trail went up a hundred yards or so up the peak. Signs noted that a special flower found here and nowhere else meant that you could not cross the fence to follow the ridge from Agassiz to Humphreys (same like on the top of Skyride). Other signs noted that the peaks are sacred to local tribes. From the summit you can see to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, the Lowell Observatory to the west, as well as a domed Arizona stadium in Flagstaff. On the northwest horizon were magnificent white buttes that looked like grand monuments. You can see the Painted Desert on the east.
And when you return back to the parking lot you have a chance to relax in the Peak Side Café at the foot of the chairlift. It is open daily, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., serving a lunch menu. The Café is the highest restaurant in Arizona.

An outdoor lovers’ paradise, Flagstaff offers activities year around. They also love to turn a weekend into a colorful event. Almost every summer weekend offers something special.

During our visit to Flagstaff in the beginning of September we participated in two major events. First one was the Labor Day Weekend Festival. Flagstaff Art in the Park was our favorite (three days in a row, Sat through Mon). During the event Wheeler Park was filled with vendors selling all kinds of crafts, arts, activities for kids, and food; live music was pretty good. The Coconino County Fair took place at the fairgrounds in Fort Tuthill Park. Highlights of the fair included exhibits, livestock, entertainment, a demolition derby, and carnival. On Monday Flagstaff Symphony Orchestra presented its annual free Labor Day concert with long title "Car Tunes" – Classical meets Classic, A Sentimental Musical Journey along "America’s Mother Road" (at Pine Mountain Amphitheater in Fort Tuthill Park).

Next weekend city celebrated Route 66 Days (in 07 it was September 7 - 9). Actually this event started on Friday evening with "Cars" featured at Heritage Square. Next day hundreds of classic cars rolled through town. These restored vehicles brought much color and noise to the downtown area. Wheeler Park and downtown filled again with vendors selling all kinds of arts, clothing, food and other goodies. Those less car-inclined could have a nostalgic time listening to live music from a number of good bands and singers (Heritage Square was our favorite place to watch it). All events are within a block or two of the car show.

But Flagstaff starts its festivities long before September. We were told that summer events in Flagstaff center around the rodeo and ethnic cuisine. Fans of the rodeo enjoy the Arizona High School Rodeo finals, which take place the first weekend of every June at the Coconino county Fair Grounds. High school students compete in such events as barrel racing, bareback riding, saddle bronco riding, bull riding, team roping, calf roping, and goat tying. The annual Chili Cook-off held during that same weekend features live music and contests for both adults and children. Renaissance in the Pines, featuring a Renaissance-themed marketplace, brings stage shows, street entertainment and living history demonstrations that include blacksmithing and weaving. Heritage Square in Historic downtown Flagstaff stages this two-day free festival with music of all descriptions, drumming and dance from local bands

On the second Saturday in June, the Great Fiesta Del Barrio & Fajita Cook-off celebrates the customs and culture of the local Hispanic community.
The third weekend in June brings the Pine Country Pro Rodeo, which draws contenders to the Coconino County Fairgrounds. The Arizona Highland Celtic Festival offers music, Irish dancing, and whiskey tasting.

The Festival of Native American Arts, held during July and August, includes an exhibit, outdoor market, dances, workshops and demonstrations celebrating the arts, crafts, culture, and traditions of Native Americans throughout the Southwest. Centered around the 4th of July, are the Coconino County Horse Races, June 30th through July 24nd, at Fort Tuthill Downs at the County Fairgrounds.
August's Flagstaff Summerfest Festival in the Pines tops off the summer season with the finest in arts and crafts, food, and entertainment.
Flagstaff Festival of Science (September 21 – 30) offers ten-day family event with open houses, lectures, presentations, hikes and excursions. The Flagstaff Festival of Science, a 10-day event held annually at the end of September, promotes science awareness through hands-on exhibits, interactive displays, field trips, and world-class scientist participants.
Flagstaff kicks off the winter season as children young and old delight in the Playthings of the Past exhibit, which runs from November through January and features dolls, trains, cars, and castles from the 1880s through the 1960s. During December, Riordan Mansion offers holiday tours of its festively decorated turn-of-the-century rooms. February's Flagstaff Winterfest features nearly 100 events: sled dog races, skiing competitions, and other snow events, llama play days, sleigh rides, concerts, cultural events, and historic walking tours are all on schedule. The Arizona Special Olympics is a competition for mentally and physically challenged athletes that is held during the last weekend in February.

We stopped by at Jackson Grill on our way back from Sedona. The contemporary American restaurant itself is very nice; you can sit inside or at the outdoor patio (chilly September evening did not call for it). Tables near the window look out onto the picturesque forest and meadow. The server was prompt, knowledgeable, and polite.

Four of us found that their menu is traditional but quite varied. Regional seafood dishes, rotisserie chicken, choice of meats, and vegetables are the specialties. Our friends ordered Kansas City steak and Cedar Plank salmon, my wife wanted lamb chops, and I chose the duck breast. The food was full of flavor, the portions were plentiful, and the presentation colorful and artistic. Spinach salads with blue cheese, bread, and desserts were all very good.
We experienced wonderful ambiance, attentive and pleasant service.

The rural location on 89A just south of the city offers plenty of parking.

Wupatki National Monument is one of several archaeological sites preserving pueblos (houses) of ancient peoples. The pueblos all have a distinctive red color and were made from the local Moenkopi sandstone. We reache Wupatki by the same loop road that passes the Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument, adjoining the main north-south route US 89. At the visitors center we learned about history of the area. About 800 years ago, Wupatki was the tallest pueblo, and perhaps one of the richest and most influential, in the Southwest. It is believed that people moved here because of volcanic eruptions that took place at Sunset Crater. With a little imagination, one can picture these Ancient Americans fleeing when the volcano erupted, then gradually returned to the area to build new settlements in the area now called Wupatki. The ash from the volcano may have made farming in the area slightly better, holding moisture in the soil. A slight change in climate may have made water more plentiful as well. The settlement flourished as a center for trade routes that crossed through the area being the meeting place for three different cultures — the Sinagua, Cohonina and Kayenta Anasazi. By about A.D. 1250, people had moved on and Wuptaki lost its importance. Was it the extensive drought that began about A.D. 1215 that drove them away? Did poor soil conservation eventually lead to loss of topsoil and worsening crop yields each year? We will never know.

Wupatki Ruins

Beyond the Visitor Center, visitors have several different options for exploring the pueblos. These include the Wupatki Pueblo Trail, the Lomaki Pueblo Trail, and the Doney Mountain Trail. These trails are all quite short (0.5 miles to about 1 mile roundtrip distance) and are all well maintained and easy to follow. The biggest ruins are the 3-storey Wupatki pueblo (Hopi for 'tall house') that was once the home of 300 people. The house is situated on the edge of a small plateau and has unobstructed views eastwards towards the Painted Desert and the Little Colorado River.
The ruins are reached by a short, paved self-guided trail starting at the visitor center. We walked around and inside it, crouching through low doorways to explore inner chambers.
The masonry ball court at the far end of the village may have been used for games or religious functions. The most amazing place for me here was a natural blowhole (the ancients believed it was how the earth breathes). This is a vent of unknown depth linked to underground caves which either blows out or sucks in air, depending on the ambient pressure. In a hot September day (low 80s) it blew cold 60º air. It's as fun as it is refreshing.
We spent at Wupatki 2 hours or so and were one of the last visitors during the day leaving the pueblos and houses of the Anasazi and Sinagua people, once filled with the laughter of children and the work of adults, standing in silent ruin, filled only with the sound of the winds. It was a day to remember.

If you plan to stop anywhere in Oak Creek Canyon, you'll need to buy a Red Rock Pass. They cost $5 a day, and are available at the rest area. You can also purchase them through automated machines located at many trailheads.

Strawberry Crater

Second choice for climbers, recommended by a park ranger, is the Strawberry Crater. Foot of the volcano can be reached from the loop road FR545 or from US 89 via short forest road but high clearance vehicles are recommended. Coming directly from Flagstaff, take Highway 89 to just past milepost 434 and turn right onto an unmarked dirt road (Forest Road 546). Continue east on FR-546 for roughly 3.6 miles to Forest Road 779 (continue straight at the fork). Follow FR-779 for another 2 miles to the signed trailhead. There’s an interpretive sign but no facilities. The largest lava flow in the area may be seen around the volcano (it began erupting around the year 1066).
Path is steep (400 feet elevation gain); the struggle ends at a saddle within the crater where views of the Vermillion Cliffs, Painted Desert, and the mesas of the Little Colorado River gorge are visible in the distance. From the saddle, it’s possible to augment the hike by picking your way along unmarked paths (go left and uphill) to the volcano’s rim.

Last stop in the Sunset Crater Area will be at Painted Desert Vista overlook from which it is possible to see many miles towards the relatively flat and barren land.

Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument

Almost all hills and mountains between Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon are geologically young but extinct volcanoes of the San Francisco Volcanic Field. We visited the Sunset Crater area after driving around the San Francisco Peaks (forest road FR 418 meets FR 545 near US 89). You can go directly from Flagstaff taking US 89 (12 miles) then turn right (east) on FR545. This road passes Bonito Campground (on your left) and brings you to the Visitor Center. Nearby you can see several colorful cinder cones formed by extinct volcanoes, and large expanses of lava and ash. The 36 miles park road eventually passes through the Wuaptki National Monument before rejoining US 89 further north. The entrance fee ($5 per person for 7 days) covers both national monuments. If you are going to visit other national parks in the area (Grand Canyon, Petrified Forest etc.) it is worth to buy a National Park Pass. Yes you are in the mountains; elevation here is 6,960ft/2,121m. The elevation of the land around Sunset Crater is high - the tallest peak is 8,916 feet.
Inside the visitors center you will find small gift shop, restrooms, and a small museum. There are interesting exhibits about volcanism, and a seismograph which continually monitors earthquake activity around the world. You can jump on a pad, creating your own "earthquake" and watch it on the monitor. Outside the pavilion there is a small picnic area.

Bonita Lava Flow
Now it is time to visit the Sunset Crater volcanic fields. Soon after the visitors center the road passes one of three main expanses of lava in the area - the Bonita Lava Flow. This is the most popular place in the park. The Bonito Lava Flow erupted from the west and northwest base of the Sunset Crater cone about 940 years ago and covered an area of 1.8 square miles. The Sinagua Indians were witness to this. Today, the volcano's rim of red cinders and the lava flows near the cone seem to have cooled and hardened to a jagged surface only yesterday. Most of the rock you see here is dark gray to black basalt. Here and there, impressive blocks of basalt surged upwards, sometimes in rich folds of black satin. Stay on the trail because it is difficult and dangerous to walk off the trail due to the extremely sharp, uneven and brittle lava.

Lenox Crater
If you want to climb a volcano then Lenox Crater is for you. It is located across the loop road (west of Sunset Crater). The jagged terrain of Lenox Crater is challenging, but the effort is worth the view. This trail is a very steep climb up to the top of a volcanic crater. The half-mile climb ascends about 300 feet and takes anywhere from 30-60 minutes, depending on your stamina. Not only is the path steep, but it's made mostly of a fine volcanic gravel, which is just about as fun to trudge through as deep snow or sand. At the top, there is a vast crater, covered with more of the same cinders. From the summit you can see the Painted Desert and a field of cinder cone volcanoes. The return trip should take about 10-20 minutes.
Sunset Crater
Sunset Crater itself is a mile further on your right; it is no longer possible to climb the 1,000 foot cone since the trail to the summit was closed in 1974 to prevent excessive erosion. Turn right shortly before the volcano (there is a clear sign) and proceed to the parking lot. Here you will find a very good loop path around the lava formations at the foot of the volcano. Of all the cinder cones of the area, Sunset Crater Volcano is one of the most colorful and pristine. As you walk along the trail toward Sunset Crater Volcano everywhere you look you'll see black, bubbly basalt. Sunset Crater, Arizona’s youngest volcano, began erupting around 1064 - 1065 A.D. Eruptions continued in the area for many decades. It has distinctive dusky red-brown patches formed by oxidized iron and sulphur which makes it appear bathed in the light of the sunset; this caused John Wesley Powell, who was the first director of the U.S. Geological Survey, to name the mountain 'Sunset Peak'. The main crater at the summit is 400 feet (120 m) in diameter. As the story goes, in the 1920s, H.S. Colton saved the cone from severe damage by averting the attempt of a Hollywood movie company to blow it up in order to simulate an eruption. This led to the establishment of the Sunset Crater National Monument in 1930.
Immediately after the Sunset Crater volcano on your right there is the Cinder Hills Overlook; stop here for the best view of the park's namesake Sunset Crater. The vegetation here is sparse - mainly scattered pine trees, many of which are dead due to an unstable root base and lack of water; the area is generally quite desolate and looks as if the eruption occurred very recently although it actually happened in 1065, with some lesser activity over the following 200 years.

A ranger told us "If I had to choose one thing to see near Flagstaff, it would have to be Walnut Canyon". So we added the national monument to our "must see" list and one September morning hit the road. The canyon was only 15 min. drive from the Wyndham Flagstaff resort where we stayed. From Country Club Drive we turned right (eastbound) on I-40, then 2 miles later took exit 204, and drove south 3 miles to the canyon rim. Park open year around except December 25; hours: November - April 9:00 - 5:00; May - October 8:00 - 5:00. Admission $5.00 per person for 7 Days (or use your family National Pass). The Visitor Center perched on the cliff edge with panoramic views east and west. Below the building small seasonal stream Walnut Creek has carved a 600 foot deep canyon into the local Kaibab limestone as it flows east, eventually joining the Little Colorado River en route to the Grand Canyon. The exposed rocks in the wooded canyon walls look like a giant cake - various layers, of slightly differing hardness, some of which have eroded more rapidly forming shallow caves. Very little water runs in Walnut Creek nowadays, because it is held back in Lake Mary which provides water for the city of Flagstaff.

In the small but very interesting museum visitors learn about history of this amazing place. The oldest artifact discovered at Walnut Canyon is a projectile point dated to 8,000 years ago. But it is the Sinagua ("without water") who were the primary residents of this area between arriving about 500 and disappearing by 1300 AD. First they tried to follow their familiar pattern of building houses dug into the ground (called pithouses). We had a chance to see one of these along the Rim Trail, near a farming area. For reasons unknown, the Sinagua (ancestors of the modern Pueblo people, including the Hopi and Zuni) abandoned the Walnut Canyon area between 900 and 1100 AD, then returned to build most of the cliff dwellings and occupy the area for the next 200 years. Sinagua left for good in the middle of the 1200's. Perhaps the rains didn't come at the right time, and there wasn't enough food to tide them over the winter; maybe crowded conditions caused too much disease; or they just got tired of the place and decided to find better homes. Six centuries later, President Woodrow Wilson proclaimed the ruins a national monument November 30, 1915.

Now it is time to take 0.9 mile Island Trail, a steep but very well built path with guard rails down the slope. Many of the dwellings were built around a U-shaped meander in Walnut Canyon, where the creek circles around 3 sides of a high rocky plateau, creating a 'peninsula'. The loop path descends steeply (240 steps or 185 feet) with a long series of steps and circles the peninsula. It passes by the remains of about 20 separate dwellings and has good views of the cliffs opposite, with other ruins clearly visible. These cliffs made pleasant houses - shielded from direct sun in the summer and warmed by reflected sun in the winter. The Sinagua people partitioned ledges into houses, adding a front wall and smoke hole just under the ledge drip line. Numerous overlooks and signs with pictures and detailed explanation make the trip entertaining and give a better insight. The reddish stones used by the Sinagua contrast with the white limestone layers of the canyon. The vegetation changes noticeably in different parts of the canyon. The north facing walls have fir and pine trees, while some of the sunny, south-facing slopes have agaves, several species of cactus and my favorite - a Bar Berry bush perching atop of a small rock. Take your time on the hike up and drink water, but enjoy the canyon views.

A ranger told us that they offer the Ledge Hikes first and last Saturday of the month at 10 a.m; duration 3 hours. This is a 2 miles off-trail challenging hike with steep slopes, loose footing, and brush, to cliff dwellings in an area otherwise closed to entry. Unfortunately we came here on Thursday.

Upon returning up to the Visitors Center, we took the Rim Trail. Small 0.7 mile loop first traverses flat land along the canyon rim offering two spectacular outlooks. Along the rims of Walnut Canyon, evidence of Sinagua farming devices such as check dams is preserved. The trail turns left (inland) and passes a few Pueblo and Pithouse ruins and brings you back to the picnic area near the visitor center. We took about two hours to complete the trails and we didn't rush.

For me, the Walnut Creek Canyon National Monument was equally impressive as the ruins at Montezuma Castle National Monument (50 miles to the south) and Wupatki National Monument (20 miles to the north).

In February 07 we booked our vacation swapping our timeshare week trough RCI. Our plan was to explore Grand Canyon and its vicinity in September. Choice of the resort was obvious - Fairfield Flagstaff Resort in Northern Arizona. This is truly a five-star resort. An RCI Gold Crown Resort, Wyndham Flagstaff (it changed owner and name by the time we came here to stay during Labor Day week) offered a full range of resort amenities and activities right on site. Only 80 miles from the Grand Canyon, the resort is a complete recreational community with an 18-hole golf course; eight tennis courts, four lighted; and two outdoor pools-all open seasonally. Seven national parks and monuments are located with a 100-mile radius of Flagstaff, including Grand Canyon, Sunset Crater, Wupatki, Walnut Canyon, Petrified Forest, Painted Desert, and Montezuma Castle.
We had access to the BearPaw Activity Center with a swimming pool, hot tub, pool tables and table tennis. On the center’s premises visitors also could find 4 PCs with free internet access (they limit it to 30 min when there are too many staying in the line what did not happen very often).

Our unit was a three-level, two-bedroom, two-bath unit with nice furnishings. When we walked into the unit, the first bedroom was to the right and had two full beds and direct access to bathroom. The exit of the dining room went to the balcony, which had a great view of the San Francisco Peaks. We also glad to find the gas fireplace. Downstairs was the master bedroom and bathroom. The master bedroom had a king-size bed and a small futon chair. The master bedroom had a private balcony also overlooking the San Francisco Peaks. The vanity was huge, and there was a marvelous Jacuzzi tub. It was so great to have a washer and dryer in the closet off the bedroom. TVs and DVD player in both bedrooms and the living room, and a stereo in the living room.

There is a restaurant in the Club House, and resort guests get a dinner discount. Fairfield Flagstaff had several excursions available to go to the Grand Canyon and Red Rock Canyon (Monday morning presentation explains it all). We, however, did not take advantage of the tours and just went by ourselves.
We also participated in a timeshare presentation for a restaurant gift certificate. Thankfully, there was no high pressure; we spent an hour or so with a salesperson who tried to convince us to move our weeks to Wyndham exchange system. Overall, the resort was excellent.

Directions from Phoenix Airport (travel 153 mi; 2 – 2.5 hrs):
Go E Sky Harbor Blvd 2mi, take I-10 W 5.3 mi, take exit 143A "Flagstaff" to I-17N, go 140mi.
In Flagstaff take exit 340A "Winslow" to I-40 E, go 5.5 mi, take AZ-89 "Page/Grand Canyon" exit onto Oakmont Dr then Country Club Drive.

Lowell Observatory is definitely the most famous place in Flagstaff. It is located on the west edge of Flagstaff, on the top of West Mars Hill Road. It is open daily from 9:00 AM until 5:00 PM, and evenings Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from 5:30 PM to 10:00 PM. Admission $6.00; check the weather forecast before you go because the observatory does not issue rain checks if the sky is clouded. Upon arrival the Observatory guides will invite you to spend some time under the glorious Arizona night sky for some stargazing. After dark, visitors stand in line, sometimes for more than hour, to peer through the 1896 Clark Telescope, located under the observatory's soaring wooden dome. A more contemporary portable telescope is set up outside as well (no line here).
During our visit to Flagstaff they held a wonderful event. On Sunday evening September 2 the observatory welcomed visitors to its annual "Labor Day Star Fest". This special event began at 5 PM with one hour indoor program telling numerous visitors the history of universe 101, and history of the observatory. Bostonian Percival Lowell chose Flagstaff and its strong visibility to build his observatory in 1894. Lowell believed Mars had the capability of supporting intelligent life and his astronomy interests focused on researching that possibility. The observatory drew international attention in 1930 when astronomer Clyde Tombaugh discovered what has since become known as the dwarf planet Pluto. Vesto Melvin Slipher, Lowell Observatory’s director from 1916 to 1954, gathered here the first evidence of the expanding universe. His brother, Earl C. Slipher, was a famous planetary astronomer who also worked at the Lowell Observatory. His many years of observations of the planet Mars were published in 1962 as The Photographic Story of Mars. One of the more stimulating exhibits at the Lowell Observatory is the Pluto Walk, a 350 foot model of the solar system. We were surprised to find numerous domes through the campus including the Clark Telescope, the Observatory’s original 24-inch refracting telescope, and the Pluto Discovery Telescope.

Meanwhile it was getting dark and numerous telescopes were setup for viewing through Lowell campus (mostly on the small square near the Slipher Building Rotunda museum). We had to wait for some time until the skies cleared out but eventually everybody get his/her chance to enjoy great views of the giant gas planet Jupiter, its four Galilean satellites, and famous constellations from atop Flagstaff's Mars Hill.