Three Busy Weeks or So in the United Kingdom

A May 2008 trip to United Kingdom by NiceGinna

Cramond VillageMore Photos

En route from our winter home in Nice, France, to our summer home in the USA, we did two consecutive home exchanges in Great Britain: the first was in Carlisle, England, and then two weeks in Edinburgh, capped off with a couple of days in York. It was amazing.

  • 21 reviews
  • 6 stories/tips
  • 85 photos
Carlisle Cathedral Close
Carlisle probably isn't everyone's first choice in England or maybe not even near the top of one's list. But we'd been to England many times and really wanted to visit Hadrian's Wall. We were lucky enough to find a one week home exchange to Carlisle, an interesting town in itself and near one end of the Wall and also close enough to The Lake District to explore there. We had an easy (Easyjet) flight from Nice to Newcastle and a pleasant train ride across England to Carlisle. Our exchanger had left us the keys to her car, so we were set.

Much of Carlisle is a pedestrian zone, particularly around the lovely Cathedral Church of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, started in 1092; services have been held here for over 900 years! The doors lead to a sort of large vestibule. To the left is the Nave, where some of the oldest parts, the early 12th century bays, remain. To the right one enters the choir area, lined with beautiful wood Canons' Stalls dating from the 14th century. The ceiling is a heavenly gold star-studded blue. The tracery on the main stained glass window is also 14th century. The church, like so many other buildings in the entire area, is built of a beautiful brownstone.

Next, we found our way up to the massive Castle, started in 1093, where Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned in 1568. There was an interesting display of the history of this border town.

We looked at the Tullie Mansion and the beautiful gardens with pink flowering Japanese cherry trees which are stunning, with their mitt-sized clusters of blossoms. Another walk through town, searching for a restaurant that was open for lunch on Sunday and finally found the Gilded Lily. We settled down to a well-deserved meal, a wonderful hamburger with chips for me and chicken in gravy with chips for David, each with a delicious glass of wine.

Hadrian's WallBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Roman Ruins in England"

The Roman fort along Hadrian's Wall
We spent a week at a home exchange in Carlisle near Hadrian's Wall and the Lake District. One day we drove through little towns like Once Brewed and Twice Brewed and Haltwhistle to Housesteads where there is the most extensive remaining ruins of a Roman fort - there were once 12 of them - , perched on a hill looking to the north for the invading Barbarians. Today only sheep threaten. There are remains of the latrines, the ovens, the granaries, the barracks, the gates. After exploring the fort we walked a ways along the Roman walls. One can walk for miles stopping at villages along the way, where there are B&B's, hotels, restaurants and other sights.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by NiceGinna on July 22, 2008

Hadrian's Wall
Northumberland, England Newcastle, England

Lanercost PrioryBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Lanercost Priory
On the way back from Hadrian's Wall, we stopped at Lanercost Priory, founded in 166 by Henry II. We explored the graveyard and the church, which is still their village church and where they’ve had services for over 800 years!
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 3, 2009

Lanercost Priory
Lanercost

Sailing, anyone?
Keswick (pronouced Kessick) is a lovely town, with a mostly pedestrianized downtown. We walked to the distant lakefront of Derwent Water - not sure why they built the town so far from the shore - through the beautiful gardens left to the town by the local nobility. Here there is boating and other water sports. In town there are many Victorian mansions, many now B&B's and hotels, a charming place to stay. We found a nice pub for lunch; David ordered the "Chump" of lamb with roasted potatoes while I had a Caesar salad. The potatoes were outstanding - crisp on the outside but extra fluffy on the inside. At a small cheese shop we purchased some local cheese for supper.

Lake Windermere Sights & AttractionsBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Windermere Is a Perfect Spot for Watersports"

View of the Lake District
We spent a morning in Windermere where we walked to the busy lake front, where boats were taking tourists for rides and children were chasing the ducks and swans swimming near the shore. Windermere, although very commercial, is a charming town, with streets lined with elegant B&B's; one can just picture people in the 1890's taking the sea air in their afternoon frocks and coats. Again it was a beautiful day, with lots of sun and temperatures in the 70's. We had a nice lunch in town at Hyton's: huge fishcakes for David and a salmon Nicoise salad for me. They even took pity on us and gave us a 'doggie bag' for our leftovers (not a normal thing in Europe). We headed to one of the several ice cream shops nearby for dessert, choosing hazlenut/chocolate and chocolate/orange from the more than 30 possibilities. It was great ice cream, made with local rich, bio cream.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 3, 2009

Lake Windermere Sights & Attractions
Cumbria London, England

UllswaterBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "On Ullswater Lake we Went for a Steamship Cruise"

Along Ullswater Lake from the boat
After leaving Windermere, we drove 11 mileson narrow, rock-wall-lined, windy country roads with large trucks and tour buses seemingly headed right at us. We passed stone cottages and wonderful old hotels and country pubs with tourists basking in the sun. We finally reached the northern end of Ullswater where we embarked on a steamboat excursion on the lake, a fun experience. The shores were lined with boat clubs, with many sailboats and motorboats moored close to shore.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 3, 2009

Long Meg and Her DaughtersBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Long Meg and Her Daughters Is for Ancient History Nuts"

Long Meg and Her Daughters
We've seen the other two more famous stone circles in England, Stonehenge and Avebury, so we decided that we should see Long Meg too, while we were staying in Cumbria. It's a bit out of the way in Little Salkeld and it took a bit of hunting. There's no beaten to this ancient site. But it was worth the effort to find this 350 foot diameter circle out in the farmlands. Long Meg stands at 12 feet in height and is accompanied by her 68 "daughters". The site is probably from about 1500 BC. There's even a poem by Wordsworth commemorating the site, calling them "that family forlorn".
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 3, 2009

Sweetheart AbbeyBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Sweetheart Abbey and Robert Burns (Dumfries)"

Sweetheart Abbey
Carlisle is not far from southwestern Scotland and one day we took a drive up there to visit Dumfries, the home of J.M. Barrie, author of "Peter Pan" and also with many associations with Robert Burns. We visited Burns's home at the time of his death, a small stone cottage of six rooms. He died very young, only 37 years old. Nearby is Sweetheart Abbey, founded in 1275 by Lady Devorgilla of Galloway in memory of her husband.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 3, 2009

Sweetheart Abbey
Dumfries, United Kingdom

Edinburgh Castle
After our one week home exchange in Carlisle, England, we headed for a two week exchange in Edinburgh, which we often called Edinbrrrrrrra, although the weather was pretty decent for May. It would start out chilly in the morning and then, around 5 PM (!), it would warm up and the sun would be out and it was delightful until almost 10 PM. That shows how far north Scotland is. The days are much longer here than Nice or Chicago - Sunrise today was 4:47 and sunset at 9:34. Compare this to Chicago
with sunrise at 5:23 and sunset at 8:13 or Nice with 5:58 and 8:58. Edinburgh has more than 16 1/2 hours of daylight while Chicago has 14 3/4. Almost two hours more. Amazing. Great for exploring.


Getting around Edinburgh was easy. We were staying in the Stockbridge area of the city, quite convenient although not center-city. The buses were easy to figure out and usually we took a bus into town in the mornings and then walked home, since we lived downhill, unless we were exhausted. The walks home were lovely, through beautiful crescent-shaped neighborhoods, lined with lovely townhouses with park areas in the middle.

The city is built on many levels, with the Castle on a promontory high above the main streets and other areas, like Dean Village, below level. The main street is Princes Street, and nearby is a deep green where people sun and picnic on the nicer days. The Mound, just east of the castle, has beautiful buildings soaring high. It's tricky to walk around, much up and down and stairways, with funny little streets. It's a bit brooding with all the dark gray stone. It makes for challenging walking but great views.

There are several interesting museums in the city and, like London, almost all are free, stretching your travel dollars. But the US dollar, while we were there, was very weak. We would have a meal and think, oh, that's not so bad - 40 pounds. Then we'd realize that it was $80. Luckily, the dollar has strengthened since then and the pound has practically collapsed, so that it's only 1.5 X for the conversion instead of 2 X.

Grain StoreBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "A Perfect Lunch in a Perfect Place"

David at the Grainstore Restaurant
This restaurant is upstairs in an ancient building, with stone walls and coved ceiling, wooden tables, heavy beams, and an inviting atmosphere. The music was wonderful, starting with classical and moving on to contemporary jazz. Our friendly waiter, Paul, served me the smoked salmon entree and the black pudding with apples for David, both of which we loved; for our main course we had duck confit with plums and poached cod with fresh peas and lardons (like bacon) which were outstanding. We shared a bottle of Chenin Blanc which was heavenly. For dessert we ordered a bread and butter pudding which was decadent. We ended up coming back to this, our favorite place, again during the two weeks we were in Edinburgh.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by NiceGinna on July 21, 2008

Grain Store
30 Victoria Street Edinburgh, Scotland EH1 2JW
+44 131 225 7635

Deacon Brody's TavernBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "A Real Tourist Trap: Deacon Brody's Tavern"

Deacon Brody's Tavern
On our first day in Edinburgh, we were looking for a pretty pub for some lunch and found this charming looking place near St. Giles Church on the Royal Mile. But, oh, dear, it was terrible. The food was very average but the service was terrible, not only for us but for the nice couple sitting next to us. We compared notes: they had been sittiing there for more than 1/2 hour, waiting for their food, which finally arrived cold.
  • Member Rating 1 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 15, 2009

Deacon Brody's Tavern
435 Lawnmarket Edinburgh, Scotland EH1 2NT

A street in St. Andrews
We thought it would be a 2 hour bus trip from Edinburgh to St. Andrews but it ended up as almost 3 hours, through many of the charming towns - Elie, Anstruthers, and so on - of the Kingdom of Fife, to arrive at perhaps the most charming, St. Andrew's. During the ride up the skies were gray and threatening but by the time we arrived the skies were blue and it was sunny. We were delighted! We had a quick lunch at a student hang-out, then headed to B. Jannetta for their award-winning ice cream: a cone of Snickers for me and Chocolate/Peanut Butter for David. Yum.

Next it was time for the sites we had some to visit: we went to see the ruins of the Cathedral, once the largest in Scotland. It was founded in 1160 and was a point of pilgrimage until the Reformation when it was pillaged in 1559. We walked to the ruins of the Castle, set on the North Sea. It too is 12th century and was founded as the home for the bishop. The University, which dominates the town, was founded in 1410, the oldest in Scotland and third oldest in Great Britain. James I (James VI of Scotland) received part of his education here.

We walked further along, admiring the beautiful greystone homes built with a view of the sea, and finally came to the clubhouse of the Old Course, this most famous of all golf courses. We watched the foursomes teeing off at the first tee and others finishing off at the 18th. If you have any interest at all in golf, it's a thrill to be here.


Keeping warm and dry at Loch Lomond
We had decided that we would take a bus tour to see some of the interesting things away from Edinburgh. Sadly it was a rainy, dismal day. Oh, well. We headed up to the Balmoral Hotel where we were picked up and headed off to Glasgow. There we stopped for only 20 minutes; David and I didn't feel we needed to rush around as we plan to go over for a day next week. We then drove on to Loch Lomond, the largest fresh water lake in Great Britain. While some of the tourists took a boat ride, we had an aperitif at a local pub in Balloch. We drove through beautiful scenery of the Trosswachs area, deep forests, heather covered mountains, and lonely valleys of sheep, stopping for lunch in Aberfoyle. We had a dreadful lunch of what seemed to be boiled hamburgers (if that's possible). We drove through the pretty village of Callander and passed the 14th century Doune Castle (from "Monty Python and the Holy Grail") and finally arrived at Stirling Castle. We toured the castle but weren't really impressed - have we seen too many castles? We returned to Edinburgh through Bannockburn, the scene of Robert The Bruce's famous victory over the English in 1314, and passing Linlithgow Palace, birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots in 1542. It was a long day; the bus dropped us off near Charlotte Square and we walked home for a light supper. We arrived home around 5 PM, and again it was the best time of the day with lots of blue sky and sun!

The drivers/guides on these tours are always a font of information. We learned that the mayor is called a Lord Provost; a 'strath' is a long wide valley while a 'glen' is a narrow valley. Loch Lomond is Great Britain's largest body of fresh water.

High Tea at the Willow Tea Room
Monday started out a bit iffy but turned into a beautiful day, although still a bit chilly. We headed by bus to Glasgow, about an hour trip. Once there, we walked to the 12th century cathedral dedicated to the town's patron saint, St. Mungo (made us remember the old Brooklyn Dodgers' pitcher Van Lingo Mungo!). Behind the church the cemetery with its massive vaults looms on a high hill, appearing like some bizarre apartment complex. Nextdoor is the Royal Infirmary, a building that looks like a castle. Also in the area is the Provand's Lordship, the oldest house in Glasgow, built in 1471. We then boarded a tour bus, a 'hop on, hop off' bus which would take us to all the sights. Our driver and guide were very amusing, doing songs and little dances and such.

Glasgow is a very industrialized city with many modern buildings. It's easy to miss the charm of the beautiful old brownstone buildings, with their intricate detail. But they are worth looking out for. The bus passed through the University district and Kelvingrove Park, with its tennis courts and bowling greens. We got off near the original Willow Tea Room, designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh (1868-1928), Glasgow's most famous architect/artist/designer. His work reminded me of Frank Lloyd Wright. We had a nice lunch although we discovered this is the only one of the 4 tearooms that does not serve alcohol! David had haggis with neeps and taties (mashed potatoes and rutabagas); I had an English tea which was brought on a plateau - sandwiches of cucumber and cheese, salmon, ham, and egg salad on one layer, a scone with clotted cream and strawberry jam on another, and a rich chocolate layer cake on the final layer, all accompanied by a pot of tea.

Afterwards we 'hopped on' again, passing by the River Clyde where the old shipyards built the Queen Mary and many other famous ships. We went on to the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, housed in a magnificent building of brownstone with turrets and much decoration. It's a stunning building, inside and out. We toured many of the rooms showing the art collection, including Monet's "A View of Ventimiglia" which reminded us of home. Then we jumped back on the tour bus to return to the bus station and our trip back to Edinburgh.

The KitchinBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "A Fancy Meal with too Fussy Service"

This restaurant was recommended by our waiter at The Grain Store restaurant which we loved. It is located near the mooring of The Royal Britannia, a must see. The food here was interesting and excellent: an amuse bouche of smoked eel in beet soup; for entrees (first course) we had pork belly and vegetables done in the "Greek fashion" with a lemon sauce; for our main course we both had the beef, done to perfection and served with a bordelaise sauce and beautiful root vegetables; and for dessert a rhubarb/pistachio tart with pistachio ice cream. The meal was delicious but the service was just "too-too": the constant hovering, refolding your napkin if you left the table, again layiing the napkin on your lap when you returned. Just too much. And the waiters constantly walk back and forth in the front of the restaurant when not otherwise occupied, sort of annoying.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by NiceGinna on July 21, 2008

Balmoral HotelBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "An Affordable Meal in the Famous Balmoral Hotel"

We wanted to eat at the fabulous Balmoral, but didn't think we could afford the really fancy restaurant. But the Hadrian, the less expensive resto, had a special deal for lunch, 14.50 pounds for 2 courses. David started with cream of tomato soup with shrimp which we shared ; we both had the amazingly tender oxtail with root vegetables for the main course, and I had the chocolate chip/orange cheesecake for dessert, again shared. We shared a nice half-bottle of Fleurie (Lucien Lardy 2006) which was lovely with the oxtail. As expected in a luxurious hotel like this, the restaurant service was impeccable.

We like places that offer this 2-course option, as we are not big eaters. Sharing the first course and the dessert and then each having our own main course works really well for us.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 15, 2009

Balmoral Hotel
1 Princes Street Edinburgh, Scotland EH2 2EQ
44 131 556 2414

TempusBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Sunday afternoon Jazz Brunch"

Sunday jazz at The Tempus
The first Sunday we were in Edinburgh we passed this restaurant and heard the music playing. Inquiring, we learned that on Sundays they offer a Jazz Brunch and we determined to go the next week. AFter a lovely morning at the Botanic Gardens, we headed off to Tempus where we spend 3 1/2 hours eating and listening to great jazz and having a wonderful time. Our lunch was wonderful, with friendly service: butternut squash soup to start; then a whole sea bass for David and a crispy duck and tomato salad for me, accompanied by a bottle of Pinot Grigio. For dessert there was apple/cranberry crumble, such a British dessert, and a chocolate tart with and Irish coffee for David and a glass of red dessert wine for me. The keyboard, bass, and trumpet players accompanied the chanteuse who sang Cole Porter, Benny Goodman, and more. A delightful afternoon.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by NiceGinna on July 21, 2008

St Giles' CathedralBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Events at St Giles' Church"

Hand bells at St. Giles
Don't forget to check what's happening during the time you are in Edinburgh. We found a handbells' concert for free at St. Giles' Church on the Friday we were in town. It was wonderful listening to the semi-religious music such as "Amazing Grace" and "It's a Gift to be Simple". They also played "Morning Has Broken" which was written to an old Scottish folk melody.

St. Giles Church is famous for being the church of John Knox who was the leader of the Protestant Reformation and considered the founder of the Presbyterian Church in the mid-1500's. This was during the same time that Mary Queen of Scots reigned, a Catholic monarch and there was much talk of rebellion at this time.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by NiceGinna on July 22, 2008

St Giles' Cathedral
Royal Mile Edinburgh, Scotland EH1 1RE
+44 131 225 4363

Cramond InnBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Lunch in the Idyllic Seaside Cramond Village Area of Edinburgh"

Cramond Village Inn
Cramond Village looks like an old fishing village but was founded as a mill town along the River Almond a few hundred years ago. We thoroughly enjoyed a hearty lunch at the ancient and picturesque Cramond Inn: steak and ale pie for David and bangers and mash for me. For dessert we shared a 'sticky toffee pudding' that was decadent. Service, as is normal at pubs, was at the bar.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by NiceGinna on July 22, 2008

Cramond Inn
Cramond Village Edinburgh, Scotland EH4 6NU
+44 131 336 2035

Lauriston CastleBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Lauriston Castle is Worth a Visit "

Lauriston Castle
Lauriston Castle started out as a Tower House in the 1590's. The Castle that was added and then later extended in the early 1800's is much newer but has beautiful gardens and wonderful views down to the Firth of Forth. If you get to Cramond, it's a short walk away.
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 4, 2009

Lauriston Castle
Cramond Road South Edinburgh, Scotland EH4 5GD
+44 131 336 2060

AntiquaryBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "The Antiquary Pub for Folk Music"

We were lucky to find that The Antiquary Pub, near us, has folk music on Thursday evenings. We arrived at 9 PM and found more than 25 musicians having a great time: there were more than 15 fiddlers, a bagpiper, a harpist, a flutist, Irish penny whistlers, a banjo player and a mandolinist, and an accordionist. They played and sang for hours. It may have been the highlight of our two weeks in Edinburgh!
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by NiceGinna on July 22, 2008

Antiquary
72-78 St Stephen Street Edinburgh, Scotland EH3 5AQ
+44 131 225 2858

Cafe RougeBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "A Dismal Lunch at the Chain, Cafe Rouge"

We had no idea that Cafe Rouge was a chain. The interior is cute and, as we live in Nice, France, we were hoping for a decent French lunch. No such luck. David had lamb shanks (which he always loves) which were okay while I had sanglier (wild boar) sausage with mashed potatoes flavored with cilantro - not a French thing to do and which I hate. We had average desserts and left, having spent about $90 for a very disappointing lunch.
  • Member Rating 1 out of 5 by NiceGinna on July 22, 2008

Cafe Rouge
43 Frederick Street Edinburgh, Scotland EH2 1EP
+44 131 225 4515

Craigmillar CastleBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Craigmillar Castle, a 16th Century Ruin"

About Craigmillar Castle
Craigmillar Castle is one of the many places associated with Mary Queen of Scots. We climbed around the tower and saw the bedrooms and kitchen and grand hall, all with great fireplaces. The rooms were posted with signs and pictures showing what they would have looked like, which added to our understanding. From the tower there were views of the Firth of Forth.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 3, 2009

Craigmillar Castle
on the A68 road Edinburgh, Scotland EH16 4SY
+44 131 244 3101

Dean VillageBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "The Old Millers' Community of Dean Village"

Dean Village
On a cold and gray morning we set out to visit Dean Village. Edinburgh is an interesting city, with small villages that have been incorporated into the city over the years. To get to Dean Village we walked up the hill to Queensferry Road, then across the Dean Bridge, looking down over the bridge to the stream and village far below. We followed the steep, cobbled lane of Bell's Brae down and felt like we were entering a time and place of centuries ago. The village was founded in the 12th century as a milling community; by 1700 there were 11 mills along the river. Now the hidden area is a residential place with one of the old mills converted into flats. We wandered along the river path about 1/4 mile to steep steps that took us back up to today!
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 3, 2009

Dean Village
Queensferry Street Edinburgh, Scotland EH2 4PF

Holyroodhouse PalaceBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "A Visit to Edinburgh Means a Visit to Holyroodhouse"

Holyroodhouse
The first day we tried to go to Holyroodhouse, we were so disappointed to find that there was an emissary from the Queen in residence and the palace was therefore closed to the public. Luckily, we were in town for 2 weeks and the emissary would be gone by the last day we were there.

Holyrood Palace, home of the Queen when she visits Scotland, is also where Mary, Queen of Scots, lived when she was queen in the late 1500's. We visited the newer State Rooms, where the present Queen entertains dignitaries and also the quarters of Mary, Queen of Scots, in the older section of the building. Afterwards we saw the old Abbey, founded in 1128 by the Augustinians, now in ruins. The buildings are surrounded by beautiful gardens. Holyrood is situated near Arthur's Seat, a huge hill formed by a now extinct volcano, a dramatic setting. Across the way is the ugly new Parliament Building.
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 4, 2009

Holyroodhouse Palace
The Royal Mile. Edinburgh, Scotland EH8 8DX
+44 (131) 556 5100

York MinsterBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "York Minster Is the Number One Site in York"

Yorkminster Cathedral
We found the Minster and entered (9 pounds for the 2 of us! - whew: $18!). It's huge - the largest medieval Gothic cathedral in Northern Europe - and impressive, but not that different from others we've seen. It's a cathedral because it's where the bishop has his 'seat'; it's a minster because it was founded as a missionary church. The first Minster in York was built in 627 AD.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 4, 2009

York Minster
St Williams College - College Street York, England YO1 7JA
+44 (190) 455 7216

ShamblesBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Rambling down the Shambles"

The Shambles in York
The Shambles is just the name of the narrow main street of the Old Town of York, filled with lots of shops with souvenirs and things to eat. The buildings lean towards each other in a quaint sort of way.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by NiceGinna on April 4, 2009

Shambles
Downtown Streets York, England

About the Writer

NiceGinna
NiceGinna
Evanston, Illinois

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