I'm atheist, or at least I believe I am one. Nevertheless, Taoism have been an important part of my life.
Dajia Mazu International Festival is organized by Dajia Jenn Lann Temple (大甲鎮瀾宮) held annually in March of Lunar Calender. It's an activity lasting 8-day-7-night pilgrimage, over 100 thousand Mazu believers involved and crossing 4 counties throughout central Taiwan. Later in 1999, the Taichung County Government accredited the festival "The Dajia Mazu International Festival", becoming not only one of the famous tourist spots in Taiwan but also said to be one of the biggest three religious festival around the globe.
So, on March 24th, National Youth Commission of Taiwan organized a tour to participate in such festival, hoping to experience the cultural event that crazed millions of taoists. We were in our bus, leaving Taipei from 7 am. Along the road there had been pouring rain so I felt worried how it would become of us once we reach the pilgrimage. But we had something more serious to worry first as we were trying hard to trace where Mazu was at that moment since they went to routes and paths in the middle of nowhere.
Thanks to iPhone and GPS function, we successfully tracked Mazu, positioning ourselves and eventually we saw the crowds were just in front of our bus. Then, we got off the bus, starting our own journey at 10:30 sharp.
It's really difficult to describe what I felt along the way. I felt like I was in a foreign land, experiencing something exotic but at the same time my mind keep reminding you that I'm actually in Taiwan, my homeland. No, I won't deny that this part of Taiwan, the culture and the place alike, are not that familiar to me. I open my eyes wide, trying to capture every scene and image I saw, through my own eyes and my lens.
Then, there was one lame man passing me by, slim body with bandage on both of his feet. That was the first time I feel the power of Mazu Pilgrimage. As lame as he seemed, I was unable to catch up with his pace, his concentration, as it seemed, helped him forget his physical challenge. I did not talk to him, nor didn't I understand what was his drive to the pilgrimage. But I believe that he was a believer, hoping Mazu would bless on him.
Along the road, there were numerous believers willing to giveaway some drinks, fruits or even food "gratis", for the sake of Mazu. They believe it is the time to devote their properties offering to the pilgrimage so that Mazu would also protect them.
I saw sports drink, coconut, sliced ice, watermelon to name just a few. But the most unforgettable serving I had was the vegetarian porridge at Daitien Temple (代天宮) at Jiayi County. As fond of meat as I am, I kept having the meal bowl after bowl. Delicious!!
After the lunch, one local villager asked us to play their dancing lion. I had not played the lions for a long while so basically I did not know how to play. "You should play like this, or like that..." he kept explaining me how to play the lion with fluent Taiwanese so fast that I hardly know any word he spoke. Yet again, language barriers were never an issue to me, I just feel amused that I would also face some language barrier in Taiwan.
Saying goodbye to the villager, we waited for the Sedan Chair of Mazu to come to this Temple. After settling down, crowds went up as much as they could to literally grab the God's money under the sedan chair. Legend has it that one would get prosperous and lucky once seizing some God's money underneath the sedan. I touched the sedan while failing to get one piece of the God's money. I hope I would become luckier in the year to come, too.
We kept walking along the countryside later on, walking in front of the sedan. Rural scenery is so much different from the city. I heard continuous firecrackers sounds, local dancers and loud speakers upon walking and all around you were mostly religious taoist along with some youngster students who'd like to experience the cultural phenomenon as well.
Here came the most important ritual, 鑽轎底, a.k.a. crossing underneath the sedan chair of Mazu, said to bring the crosser good luck and recover them from illness. To my great surprisement, I saw an elderly woman, aged around 70 years old with white hair, sitting on the road peacefully waiting for the sedan chair to come. I did not dare to talk to her but just taking this sensational photograph. As we waited, I kept thinking am I a believer or not. I know the origin and history of Mazu but I did not expect that Mazu would become such a huge phenomenon throughout the island. And to see is to believe, after getting here experiencing it with my own feet could I truly appreciate the magical power Mazu has possessed throughout the dynasties.
As we waited in line of two persons, the guards of Mazu appeared on the other end of the road, the crowds began to buzz. As the sedan chair of Mazu came closer and closer, the emotion of the crowds waiting in line getting more and more feverish. People started to kneel, lying prone one by one. I followed suit waiting for the sedan chair over my body.
In the blink of two seconds or three, the sedan chair had past my body much sooner than I had expected. I did not make a wish to Mazu but I am certain as omnipotent as Mazu is, She could understand my needs and wishes even if I did not pray.
Then, we stopped by a place serving the sliced ice (剉冰), taking a rest and refilling our energy for the journey ahead. Walking to this township gave us a totally different feeling than walking on the farmland road. Here we got more spectators along the two side of narrow roads, some praying, some worshiping and others serving food and drink to the pilgrimage walkers. Also it has more traditional art performance here: lion-dancing, dragon-dancing, Song-jong Battle Array (宋江陣), ladies music band to name just a few.
I don't think visitors could see various traditional cultural performance within one place and one time since the tradition here in Taiwan is dying out. What a shame just to think about it!
Hours later, we eventually reached the turn over destination of the Mazu Pilgrimage - Singgon Fongtien Temple (新港奉天宮), Jiayi County. Even crowded visitors, believers and stands almost take up the whole road, leaving little space for the performers and pilgrimage to pass.
Just in front of the temple, I saw a promotional campaign that giving away free "Mazu Holy Water" with which I just don't feel quite comfortable. As far as I am concerned, I don't think we should over-commercialize Mazu, the Goddess of Sea the way the Temple Administration is doing. Making a huge fortune for the sake of religion is always a pain for believers and Taiwan itself.
So, as I walked down the vendors and stalls, I bought the Turkish ice cream, the taste I missed for a long while, getting to know Mustafa who worked. He's here for 2 years, working in Gukeng(古坑) and Jienhushan (劍湖山) on occasion. What a best way, at least for myself, to end this cultural event with a little bit exotic yet home-like flavor.
All in all, I am contented and satisfied with the Dajia Mazu International Festival. It's the place you could experience the kindness to strangers, generosity to visitors, and devotion to the Goddess Mazu. For those of you who wishes to experience and get to know much of Chinese / Taiwanese religious or traditional culture, be sure to come and visit the annual Dajia Mazu International Festival. I am certain that Mazu would not disappoint your expectation;instead, she might even give you something extra than you'd expected.
So, what are you waiting for?