Nice Journals

Retiring to Nice Was a Dream; the Reality's Even Better

Best of IgoUgo

An October 2008 trip to Nice by NiceGinna

The famous Negresco Hotel, a symbol of Nice Photo, Nice, France More Photos
Quote: Two days after I retired in 1999 we were on a plane to Nice, expecting to stay for three months. Since then we've lived here for about 6 months every year. We've had wonderful experiences and met terrific people and would love to share these times with you.
Sunset from our balcony Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
It's easy to rent an apartment in Nice. Check out www.holiday-rentals.com. or one of the many other sites. You can find all price ranges and all sorts of places - charming Old Town walk-ups and seafront places like ours. It saves a lot of money renting an apartment - usually less expensive than a hotel room and you can have many meals "at home" instead of going out all the time. It's nice to get up and have breakfast at home, instead of having to get dressed and be at the restaurant at a certain time. And an apartment will give you space to spread out, so that one person watching TV doesn't interfere with another person reading.
Here comes the tram! Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
Public transportation in Nice and the whole surrounding area is wonderful. I recommend that visitors NOT rent a car; we lived here two years before we decided to rent one and that was because we like to go over to Italy and up into the further villages that are not accessible by PT. But as a visitor, with a couple of weeks to explore, you will not need a car.You may arrive at the airport or by train. The Nice Cote d'Azur Airport is very easy. There are two terminals with a bus that will take you from one to the other. There is an Airport Bus - I think the fee is around 4 euros - and there are taxis. But for getting into town from the airport, I like to take the #23 bus which you can...Read More

Foods to Try When in Nice

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Story/Tip

Entree of foie gras Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
Any trip to France must be centered around meals. These are not rushed, fast-food experiences; they are time to sit and relax with friends and loved-ones, talking as much as eating. And there are many things that you should try when you are here that you won't find readily in other places.For hors d'oeuvres, you must try pissaladiere, made of onion, sauted until falling apart, and olive and anchovies on a pizza-like crust. Snacks: Socca is the ubiquitous Nicois snack: a chick-pea flour and olive oil paste and baked to a cake-like consistency and eaten quickly. Not my favorite thing, but you should try it.For entrees (first courses that often are enough for a ...Read More

Along the Promenade des Anglais

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Story/Tip

Along the Promenade Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
One of the favorite activities in Nice is a stroll along the Promenade des Anglais, which follows the sea from the airport almost to the Port. The sights both seaward and inland are beautiful and often evocative of an earlier time.The Negresco Hotel is one of the most famous sights in Nice, with its pink cupola and ornate Belle Epoch facade. It has two restaurants - the starred Chantecler and La Rotonde. If you want to have a sumptuous meal, the Chantecler is wonderful. There's a special deal for lunch: for 60 euros you will get a 3 course meal and lots of wine to accompany it. If you're not ready to spring for that, La Rotonde is more reasonable and very good, with a nice terrace lo...Read More

Old Town Nice (Vieux Nice)

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Attraction | "You'll Want to Wander the Streets of the Old Town"

Old Town Nice (Vieux Nice) Photo, French Riviera, France
Quote:
Behind the Cours Saleya and backed up against Le Chateau, the hill that separates the main part of Nice from the Port area, is La Vieille Ville de Nice with its meandering narrow streets and restaurants and shops galore. This is not just a tourist mecca but a place where the Nicois go to shop at their favorite butcher, fish monger, pasta maker, or wine merchant. For souvenirs, it's probably better than the other little towns on the Cote d'Azur, with a wider selection and better prices on provencal tableware, pottery, clothes, leather goods, and more. It's easy to get lost on these pedestrianized streets, but you're never far from civilization. So explore!There are a few things you'll w...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 17, 2009

Old Town Nice (Vieux Nice)
Rue Colonna d'Istria
French Riviera, France

Restaurant Les Terraillers

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Restaurant | "One of My All-time Favorite Restaurants"

Restaurant Les Terraillers Photo, Biot, France
Quote:
You know, you can find a good French restaurant almost anywhere these days. There are certainly lots of them in the States, where I'm from. But, if you like a romantic atmosphere, you won't find an experience like Les Terraillers, a beautiful place housed in a centuries-old pottery with stone coved ceilings and walls. There's interesting artwork and gorgeous flowers and elegant linens and service pieces and excellent service. And the food at the this one-star restaurant lives up to the ambience.On our recent visit we opted for the 39 euro lunch menu (55 euros if you include drinks - a glass of champagne, 2 glasses of wine of your choice, and coffee). With the champagne you are served ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 3, 2010

Restaurant Les Terraillers
Chemin Neuf
Biot, France 04 93 65 01 59
04 93 65 01 59

Mirazur (Le)

Restaurant | "Hard to Imagine that I'm the First to Review Mirazur!"

Mirazur (Le) Photo, Menton, France
Quote:
This restaurant, nearly in Italy, has been on foodies' radar for several years. And those who love to check out Michelin starred restaurants have found their way here. I'm just the latest convert to Chef Mauro Colagreco's magic ways.The restaurant is a bit tricky to find, not in the middle of town, but east of there, almost across the border. The outside is hidden in a jungle of palms. Inside the decor is modern, with lots of glass allowing a wonderful view back to the Old Town of Menton and down to the sea. Below the building is the garden where the Chef finds his freshest ingredients.We were warmly welcomed and allowed to get comfortable. We ordered a glass of champagne...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 15, 2010

Mirazur (Le)
30 Avenue Aristide Briand
Menton 06500
+33 4 92 41 86 86

Chantecler (Le)

Restaurant | "The Famed Chantecler in the Beautiful Negresco Hotel"

Chantecler (Le) Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
The Chantecler is a multiply-starred restaurant and an elegant dining experience. If you want to experience the highest type of French cuisine, this is a good bet and if you don't want to spend a fortune you can go for the lunch special. This special is a three-course meal, including more than adequate wine, for 60 euros per person. The decor is white and gold, with beautiful white linens and shining silver. Service is impeccable and attentive. The menu changes on a weekly basis but everything is good. I always find that, when I'm at such a fine restaurant, it is a good time to stretch my horizons and order something that I wouldn't usually order, perhaps the rognons (kidneys) or ris de veau (ca...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 8, 2009

Chantecler (Le)
37, Promenade des Anglais
Nice, France 06000
+33 4 93 16 64 00

Cours Saleya

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Attraction | "The Market at Cours Saleya is an Everyday Celebration"

Cours Saleya Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
The Cours Saleya is the southern most part of Old Town (Vieille Ville), just a block in from the sea. On Mondays there is a flea market/antique sale that is lots of fun to wander through and a great place to find a special souvenir. There's glassware and china, silver, linens, artwork, ceramics, great old posters, and lots more. Looking for the forks to use for escargots? There they are. A antique map of Nice? It's a bargain - and you should bargain! Every other day of the week the Cours Saleya is a food market in the mornings until about 12:30 or 1:00 PM and a flower market all day. If you happen to be invited to someone's place for dinner, a bouquet from the Cours Saleya is an id...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 30, 2009

Cours Saleya
Rue de la Terrasse east to Rue Droite
Nice, France 06300
+33 4 92 14 48 00

English American Library Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
Who wants to cart books on a vacation? Instead you can get a temporary membership at the English American Library in NIce. It was founded in 1863 with books donated by Queen Victoria who spent a lot of time in Nice, escaping the dreary English weather. There was a large British community here and there still is.The Library is not just a place to get books. You can read the International Herald Tribune here each day. The friendly English-speaking staff can recommend restaurants, sights, and so on. The Library is located on the grounds of the Anglican Church on rue Barla; you can also access it from the pietonne (pedestrian zone) just east of av. Congres. It is open Tuesd...Read More

Baie d'Amalfi

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Restaurant | "Baie d'Amalfi is One of our Regular Places"

Baie d'Amalfi Restaurant Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
We discovered this terrific restaurant shortly after moving to Nice and have been back time and again. Everything I've ever had here was wonderful. The first visit, I ordered salmon with artichokes and the portion of salmon was HUGE. But I also noticed the person next to me having a plate of vegetables; the dish was called "Stuzzichini" (it's now called something else but is an appetizer plate of veggies) which I love to order for my whole lunch. Just as you enter the restaurant there is a cooler on your right with plates of these vegetables, each fixed a different way - maybe with sesame seeds or in a quiche. One of the best things is the onions served with the plate. Over all are shreds of fr...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 9, 2009

Les Pecheurs

Restaurant | "A Great Place in the Port Area of Nice"

Les Pecheurs Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
We've been to Les Pecheurs a couple of times now and it is a keeper. This time we ate outside in a warm sun but the inside is very attractive too. There are set menus at 28 and 38 euros and also a la carte items. The chef is quite creative. My entree (first course) today was crab with avocado, but all was pureed and served in a blue glass placed in a clear glass of ice, a beautiful presentation and delicious to eat. For a main course I had the gambas (shrimp); there were only three, but they were a pretty good size and were served with rice topped with bacon; on the side were pureed carrots with crumbs on top and a glass holding pureed courgettes (zucchini). A friend ordered the souris d'agnea...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 13, 2009

Les Pecheurs
18 Quai des Docks
Nice, France 06300
+33 493895961

Beau Rivage Restaurant

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Seafront Restaurants Line the Promenade"

David enjoying magret de canard at the Beau Rivage Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
I've named this for only one of the many restaurants along the Promenade. As you stroll along this lovely walkway, you will see below you, on the beach, many restaurants which will lure you in to enjoy a meal on a sunny day. The kitchens are beneath the walkway! Beau Rivage is one towards the eastern end of the Prom, and is one of the more expensive ones. Blue Beach is less expensive and there are many more.Almost all the restaurants will offer a Salade Nicoise, a plate of lettuce, tomatoes, boiled eggs, radishes, with tuna and anchovies. If you don't like the anchovies, ask for "sans anchois". This obviously is a signature dish of the city.For wine you must try a rose - no...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 21, 2009

Les Deux Frères

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Restaurant | "A Restaurant with Wonderful Food and Incredible Views"

Les Deux Frères Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
The perched village of Roquebrune, east of Monaco and just west of Menton, is a medieval village with no cars and winding stone streets and covered alleyways. The "Donjon", as the keep is called, rises high above the town; it's a great place for kids to explore, giving them a true idea of what an ancient castle was like. But we like to take visitors here for the amazing views which one can appreciate from the terrace dining room of Les Deux Freres. There is a menu available of good value - 3 courses and a 1/2 bottle of wine of your choise for 24 euros. There are several changing choices for the 3 courses - the day we were there recently there were a salad with chevre chaud (warm chee...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 21, 2009

Les Deux Frères
Place Deux Frères
Roquebrune Cap Martin, France 06190
04 93 28 99 00

Villa Grecque Kerylos

Attraction | "Kerylos Is One of My Favorite Places to Take Guests"

Villa Grecque Kerylos Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
This re-creation of a seaside villa of ancient Greece is a lovely place to spend an hour or so. Tickets are available individually at 8.50 euros or in combination with the Ephrussi de Rothschild Mansion on Cap Ferrat at 15 euros, so you could easily spend a day at the two with a nice lunch in between in St. Jean Cap Ferrat.The villa was built by Theodore Reinach, a German with an intense interest in ancient Greece. With his architect, Emmanuel Pontremoli, Reinach envisioned a house based on the villas of the 2nd century BC on the Greek Island of Delos, with a central courtyard surrounded by 12 columns of Carrera marble. Everything in the villa is based on known records of how the Greeks...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on April 8, 2009

Villa Grecque Kerylos
Impasse Eiffel
Beaulieu-sur-Mer, France 06310
+33 4 93 01 01 44

Castellaras (Le)

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "A Wonderful Meal in the Countryside"

Castellaras (Le) Photo, Cote d'Azur, France
Quote:
I wouldn't normally recommend having a car if you are spending a week or two in Nice or on the Cote d'Azur. But if you do have access to a car, this makes a terrific destination for a wonderful meal and a delightful town to visit, off the beaten track. The fortified town of Fayence, not far from Grasse, is perched on a hilltop and is charming. Nearby is the restaurant Le Castellaras, owned by chef Alain Carro who is assisted by his daughter Hermance. Madame Carro is the hostess. It isn't inexpensive - the menu that we had today was 45 euros, plus drinks. But the portions were enormous. The next time I would order an entree (first course) and a dessert! Or just a main plate and desser...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 19, 2009

Castellaras (Le)
461 Chemin de Paymeyan, Fayence
Cote d Azur
04 94 76 13 80

Musee Matisse de Nice

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction | "My Favorite Museum in Nice is the Matisse"

Musee Matisse de Nice Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
Henri Matisse lived in Nice for many years in various hotels and apartments. Born in 1869, he didn't start painting until he was 20 years old, during his convalescence from appendicitis. He was influenced by the Impressionists and the post-Impressionists and is famous for his use of bright colors. His later works were cut-outs of sea creatures and plants, several of which hang in the museum in Nice. He also designed the Chapelle du Rosaire de Vence, a chapel near Nice; plans for the chapel are also in the museum.Near the Hotel Regina where Matisse lived for many years is the beautiful 17th century Italian villa that houses the collection. It is open daily except Tuesday and, like all...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 21, 2009

Musee Matisse de Nice
164, Avenue Des Arènes De Cimiez
Cimiez, France 06000
+33 4 93 81 08 08

Beaux Artes Museum

Attraction | "The Beaux Artes Museum is in a Beautiful Villa"

The Beaux Artes Museum in Nice Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
The 1878 villa, built for a Russian princess, is built in the style of a 17th century palace of Genoa. The museum is worth a visit just to explore the villa, with its beautiful sweeping staircase. There is a lot of art by Jules Cheret (he died in Nice in 1932), which is not particularly to my taste, but there is also a large collection of Raoul Dufy, with several of his works of Nice.

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 21, 2009

Archaeological Museum and the Roman Ruins

Attraction | "Roman Ruins in Nice from 2000 Years Ago"

Archaeological Museum and the Roman Ruins Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
The Romans, of course, were all over France, planting olive trees and grape vines wherever they went. And we have some great Roman ruins to prove it. In Cimiez, an area of Nice on the hills behind the center of the city, there is the wonderful Musee Archeologique (open daily except Tuesday; free) with collections from the area all around Nice. Outside is the on-going dig, with the Roman baths, showing the underground heating apparatus, and Roman roads that lead up to Vence and beyond.

Nearby the museum are the remains of the Roman Amphitheatre, just part of a large park where Nicois come to play and picnic.

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on March 21, 2009

Archaeological Museum and the Roman Ruins
160, Avenue Des Arènes Entrée Avenue Montecroce
Nice, France 06000
+33 4 93 81 59 57

Musée Terra Amata (paléontologie)

Attraction | "View the History of Man in Nice 400,000 Years Ago!"

Quote:
To most people the Roman presence in Nice sounds like ancient history, but this museum records the Paleolithic times, about 400,000 years ago. That's no "typo"! These hunters camped on the waterfront of the Mediterranean, at a higher level than the present day. The displays include a reconstruction of their shelters made of branches, stone tools, and indications of fire in an open stone hearth. If you're a lover of ancient history, this is the museum for you.

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on March 24, 2009

Musée Terra Amata (paléontologie)
25, boulevard Carnot
Nice, France 06300
+33 4 93 55 59 93

Place Garibaldi

Attraction | "Place Garibaldi is my Favorite Square in Nice"

Place Garibaldi Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
Place Garibaldi, with its yellow ochre buildings, green shutters, and arcaded walkways is my favorite square in the city. It is named for one of Nice's most famous sons, born here in 1807, who led the unification of Italy in the mid-1800's. It has just recently been refurbished, after the new tramway bisected it. It now has less traffic so it's easier to see its charm. On one corner is the famous Cafe de Turin, a great place to meet, have a drink, or enjoy their famous oysters. In another darker corner is the Mercury Theater, which shows films in V.O. (Version Originale), so if it's an American, British, Australian film it will be in English with French sub-titles. Near the Cafe de Turin is the...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 21, 2009

Place Garibaldi
1 Place Garibaldi
Nice, France 06300

Place Masséna

Attraction | "Place Massena is the Center of Nice"

Place Masséna Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
Place Massena, until quite recently, was a traffic congested, too busy place. But with the arrival of our new Tramway, much of the traffic has been eliminated and we have a new stylized checkerboard pavement, new public art, and a beautiful place to be. Just east of the Place is the Old Town of Nice. In the Place at Christmas time there is an ice-skating rink and Christmas Village; for Christmas and through Carnaval a huge Ferris Wheel offers spectacular views of the sea, the Old Town, the mountains behind Nice. At one end of the square is the Galleries Lafayette, France's famous department store, at the start of Avenue Jean Medecin, the main shopping street of Nice.Towards the sea fr...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on March 21, 2009

Place Masséna
Place Masséna
Nice, France 06000
Aucun téléphone disp

My Own "Fromageur"

Story/Tip

Quote:
We live in Nice for 6-7 months each winter, escaping from the brutal winters in Chicago (see my blog at www.dgnomads.blogspot.com). We've had many wonderful experiences, but one of my favorites is visiting with my cheeseman. One day I was planning a dinner party, and I went to the large market at av. de la Buffa to my cheeseman. After we had decided which cheeses would be perfect for the cheeseboard that evening, my cheeseman indicated that I should try something on the counter. I saw olives, but wasn't really in the mood for olives at 9 in the morning. "Non," he said, "pas des olives. Du vin." And I noticed the little carafe of red wine which I was happy to help myself to. Such a way to start...Read More
The main square in Vence Photo, Vence, France
Quote:
Vence is a short (less than 1 hour) bus-ride on the #400 from Nice. It's one of my favorite towns and a place I am sure to take all visitors, spending the morning in Vence and then the afternoon in St. Paul de Vence, another nearby perched village but with a completely different atmosphere.Vence was an important Roman town, with a road leading up to it from the Roman town in Nice. You can see the remains of this road leading into Vence Old Town. One of the things I like especially about Vence is that there is well-marked walking route to follow around the Old Town with numbered signs in French and in English about what you are looking at, whether it is the tiny Cathedral, with its Chaga...Read More

Monaco

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction | "A Day in Monaco is a Must for Most Tourists"

View of Monaco harbor from walkway to
Quote:
Monaco is not one of my favorite places but it seems to be high on the list for almost all of our visitors, so we go a few times each year. We usually don't drive as the traffic between Nice and Monaco is terrible; we take a bus (#100) or the train. Both travel along the sea with fabulous views along the way, so the trip goes quite quickly.We like to leave Nice around 9:30 or 10:00, to get there around 10:30 or 11:00 in the morning, getting off the bus at Place des Armes and then climbing the long walkway up to "The Rock" where the Old Town and the Palace stand. We wander the narrow streets of the Old Town, admiring the beautiful architecture; we visit the Cathedral where Grace Kelly ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on March 24, 2009

Le Logis du Guetteur

Hotel | "A Hotel in a 1000 Year-old Fort"

Le Logis du Guetteur Photo, Les Arcs, France
Quote:
Last year for our anniversary we went about an hour west of Nice to Les Arcs sur Argens to stay one night in Le Logis du Guetteur, a hotel housed in a 10th century "chateau-fort". Perched on a hilltop over the town, the views of the countryside are spectacular. The rooms are done up in a very comfortable style, some with canopy beds. There is a pool for summertime and fireplaces to warm you in the winter. This is an experience that is not possible in the USA!

We had a grand lunch in the restaurant, which was memorable. See the restaurant review, same name.

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 24, 2009

Le Logis du Guetteur

Les Arcs Sur Argens, France 83460
+33 04 94 99 51 10

Le Logis du Guetteur

Restaurant | "A Meal in a 1,000 Year-old Fort"

Le Logis du Guetteur Photo, Nice, France
Quote:
Le Logis du Guetteur, where we stayed overnight for our anniversary last year, also has a wonderful restaurant, under the stone vaulted ceiling in the keep of the fort. I love places like this, that give an atmosphere that is impossible to find in the US - here, an ancient fort overlooking the town of Les Arcs. It was a leisurely meal in this unique setting, with fine linens and fresh flowers. With a coup de champagne, we were brought small hors d'oeuvres to enjoy while exploring the "carte" (menu). When we had finally decided, we settled in to enjoy a wonderful meal. First they brought a beautiful "amuse bouche" of pumpkin soup, drizzled with green olive oil. Next came our entrees (first course...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on March 24, 2009

Le Logis du Guetteur
Les Arcs sur Argens
Nice
+33 4 94 99 51 10

Restaurant Parcours Live

Restaurant | "Restaurant in a Perched Village above Nice"

Restaurant Parcours Live Photo, Falicon, France
Quote:
For those visiting Nice and hoping to visit a very uncommercial perched village, there is Falicon, just above the city. The number 25 bus can take you there - it runs about every 40 minutes from the center of Nice.You might want to plan a day's outing, with lunch at Parcours. A bit modern in decor for our taste, but with stunning views down to Nice and the sea. The food is very good and beautifully presented.We ordered a nice bottle of rose wine to accompany our meal. Our starters were mushroom soup and sardines. Actually, it was one rather large sardine (not what you would find in a can!) that was butterflied with a delicious sauce nestled in its body. On either side of t...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 30, 2009

Restaurant Parcours Live
1, Place Marcel EUSEBI
Falicon, France 06950
+33 4 93 84 94 57